VAZ 2110 often have problems with the stove, this is their disease. All this happens due to improper operation of the SAUO unit. Before you begin repairs, you need to understand why the breakdown occurred. To do this, we connect a known-good unit. If the heater functions properly with the ACS operating unit, then the problem is related to it. We dismantle the buttons next to the heater unit, after which we set the regulators to the zero position and remove the front cover and glass.
We remove the board from the plastic case and check the integrity of all tracks, jumpers and resistors. in a particular case, the first speed of the heater did not work because the jumper was broken. We solder it on one side and the other. Assembly occurs in reverse order. All fan speeds, except the last one, are connected through an additional heater resistor, which is located under the frill. One of the possible reasons why the first heater speed does not work is a faulty resistor. Depending on the ACS unit, this additional resistor is divided into types. The first resistor RDO 2108-8101081 is used in the oldest SAUO units, which had only two speeds.
RDO 2110-8118022-01 is installed on a modified heater; this unit has three speeds. The most common cause of breakdown is that all stove speeds stop functioning except the maximum one. This happens due to the thermal fuse being disconnected. You just need to solder it in place. But if it continues to disconnect, then you need to inspect the motor, it’s probably taking too much current. RDO 2123-2118022 is the latest version, has 4 speeds and no automatic mode.
The heater in the VAZ-2110 car is represented by a separate system. Its first element is the heater itself - the unit responsible for preparing the incoming air. This device is located under the hood of the car. It regulates the air supply speed and its temperature. The next element is the air distributor, the air ducts of which are located inside the car on the dashboard. For tens, a special heater “2110-01” is produced, which is distinguished by the presence of an evaporator in the air conditioning system.
The heater control circuit for this VAZ model is shown in the photo:
The main malfunctions of the stove in the domestic model VAZ-2110
Many stove problems occur during the changing seasons. With the onset of cold weather, drivers notice that the VAZ 2110 stove in their car does not heat well or does not work at all. No one ignores this malfunction, because it is always better to drive in a warm car. Among the types of breakdowns that may require stove repair:
- inability to regulate the heater temperature,
- malfunction of the damper or gear motor,
- leak in the heater radiator,
- ceiling temperature sensor malfunction,
- malfunction of the ACS control unit.
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SAUO pinout:
The SAUO receives information from:
- – cabin air temperature sensor (No. 6), which has a built-in small-sized fan.
- – MMR (micromotor reducer) (No. 9), information about the position of the heater damper.
Damper control : Based on the received information and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper, sending appropriate signals to the damper drive micromotor.
Features of operation of the VAZ-2110 heater
In order for the heater to serve for a long time and efficiently, it is important to use not only the device itself correctly, but also know some other rules.
- If your car has air conditioning, it is best to use it in wet weather.
- There is no need to block the hot air nozzles with carpets. It is better to raise them above the level of the carpets.
- In winter, before using the car, it is imperative to clean the windows from dirt and moisture.
- In winter, it is recommended to use two adjustment positions for the installed heater. If you need to quickly drain the glass, you need to use the “all on the glass” position, and as soon as the car starts moving, you should switch to the “all on your feet” mode.
Heating systems in cars often fail in winter. During this period, the stove is used much more often, which means that all the weaknesses of this device appear. The control unit for the VAZ-2110 stove often fails, as well as other elements of the system. Today we will pay special attention to this node.
Climate control operating modes
Before using the unit, you must calibrate the climate control by pressing the A/C button and, without releasing it, turn on the ignition. As soon as three horizontally oriented bars appear on the display, the button can be released. Calibration will be performed automatically, and its duration is about 5 – 10 seconds. If, during operation of the climate control, it is discovered that the position of the air damper does not correlate well with the entered value, it is necessary to recalibrate using the same algorithm. As already noted, climate control operates in three modes: automatic, manual and “Semi-automatic” mode.
When manual mode is selected (which will be indicated by a non-lit LED located above the AUTO button), the damper is controlled manually using the corresponding regulator. On the display, the left scale in the form of stripes is responsible for displaying the position of the damper. The rotation speed of the furnace fan is controlled by pressing the regulator handle and then rotating in the desired direction (clockwise - increase the speed, counterclockwise - decrease). After a five-second time interval has passed, the fan speed control mode is switched off, and the regulator returns to the damper climate system control mode.
To switch the QC operation to automatic mode, just press the AUTO button. At the same time, the corresponding LED lights up, and with the adjustment handle you can set the temperature required for a comfortable stay in the car. In the future, the VAZ-2110 climate control unit will independently control the operation of the air conditioner and heater to ensure the required temperature conditions. Semi-automatic mode is activated as soon as the user tries to change the fan speed using the appropriate control. In this case, the climate control damper will still be controlled automatically, unlike the furnace fan mode. To switch to automatic operating mode, press the AUTO button twice quickly.
The rightmost key with the inscription INJ is responsible for turning on the mode of monitoring and indicating the voltage of the vehicle's electrical network, the operating temperature of the power unit and displaying ECM error codes (if there are problems with the engine). The display of each of the listed parameters is selected by successively pressing the key. For the button to work, it is necessary to connect the VAZ-2110 diagnostic circuit to the climate control control unit.
The second button from the right is responsible for turning on the display on the air temperature measured by the internal sensor. The key located in the middle turns on the mode for displaying the air temperature outside the car. Both of these keys require the installation of appropriate sensors and their connection to the control unit. The leftmost A/C button is the air conditioning on/off switch (if equipped in the car). Maintaining the set temperature when the air conditioner is turned on is carried out in the same way - by controlling the damper that regulates the supply of warm and cooled air.
As befits an air conditioning system, the main parameters of its operation (including the temperature inside the car, the rotation speed of the furnace fan, the operating mode of the electronic control unit) are stored in the internal memory of the controller when the ignition is turned off or the on-board power supply is completely de-energized. When you turn on the ignition, the air conditioning system turns on with some delay so as not to interfere with starting the engine. After this artificial delay, the climate control begins to function in accordance with the saved user preferences that were working at the time the ignition was turned off.
Design of the heating system VAZ-2110
It includes three main nodes. This is a control unit for the VAZ-2110 stove, an air duct system, and a heating unit. The stove is controlled via an electronic unit. It consists of knobs with which the driver sets the required temperature and fan intensity.
Another important component of the heating system is the air ducts. They pass directly from the stove itself, and each channel has its own separate function. Thus, the central channels are designed for interior ventilation.
Checking the resistance resistor
The stove resistor has two spirals with different resistances, the first has 0.24 Ohms, the second has 0.81 Ohms.
If these two spirals are activated simultaneously, then the electric motor of the stove operates in the first temperature mode, and if only on the first spiral, the second speed operates. If the electric motor is turned on without the help of a resistor, then the fan rotor operates in the third position - the most powerful.
Block responsible for temperature
The central unit in the stove system is the heating unit. Its main function is to directly heat the interior. This block is arranged as follows. An electric motor with fan blades pumps hot air, three dampers perform the function of recirculation and closing/opening the channels. There is also a heater core. On modern new generation systems, heat exchangers are not equipped with a tap.
Modernization of the damper on the VAZ-2110
Malfunctions with the damper often result in the interior heating very poorly and slowly. The VAZ-2110 stove control unit is to blame. The controller is experiencing problems. The device does not send a command to extend the flap. In this case, it is recommended to check the temperature sensor. The controller handle is set to its extreme position and then twisted several times from the left to the right position. The temperature of the air flows must be checked by hand. In this way, the operating condition of the sensor is checked in one of the extreme positions of the handle. If the air flow changes the temperature when the knob is in the extreme position, then the sensor must be replaced. If the heating does not change, the cause is looked for in other places.
Possible problems
If the stove motor is not working well, do not rush to blame it. Of course, it tends to become clogged with extraneous small things - particles of dust, soot and other contaminants. It is enough to do preventative cleaning once or twice a season. Similar procedures must be carried out before the end and at the beginning of the operating season. The temperature sensor may fail. In this case, the movement of the damper is disrupted. In normal mode, it opens at the maximum when the red dot is reached and closes when the blue minimum point is reached. The indicators of normal resistance also differ. Typically the value is in the range of 20-25 ohms. If it goes beyond the limits, the fan may not heat or cool the air properly. A malfunction of the stove fan itself is indicated by unusual behavior. For example:
- Grinding noises during operation and extraneous noises;
- The fan does not start at all;
- Reduced efficiency and volume of air injection;
- I hear the fan is not working well.
The first place in the frequency of breakdowns is occupied by the electrical circuit from the battery to the stove motor. If the cable fails completely, a blown fuse is to blame. Malfunctions of the electric motor at different speeds hint at a blown resistor. And if there are no changes in the operating mode, the diagnosis is obvious - the control controller does not respond. The terminals of various connections may also fail. But if the electrical equipment is normal, then the device will have to be dismantled and thoroughly rebuilt.
Replacing self-propelled guns
Control units cannot be repaired - they are simply replaced with new ones. But first you need to make sure that this mechanism is the reason. Instead of a broken one, install a working control unit. Its price is about 1500 rubles. The element is very easy to dismantle: just remove the buttons installed nearby. And then you can remove the device. The handles are set to zero positions and then removed.
Fan repair (step by step)
The disassembly technology is very simple, but proceed carefully. Since electric motor failure lies in the wear of bearings and graphite brushes, let’s consider how to replace these elements:
- Let's disassemble the electric motor. To do this, first remove the impeller, and then the two spring clamps of the motor support.
- We remove the support.
- Unscrew the screws securing the brush assembly and remove it.
- Carefully knock out the rotor.
- We clean the elements from dust and dirt.
- From the inside of the stator, carefully bend the edges of the plate holding the bearing.
- We knock out the bearing and install a new one in its place (for replacement you need bearing No. 609).
- We bend the edges of the plate back.
- We inspect the condition of the collector plates on the rotor and, if necessary, sand them with sandpaper (fine-grained).
- We replace the worn brushes with new ones (we solder the wires of the worn ones, and in their place we solder the wires of the new elements).
- We bend the stops of the brush springs (this will allow you to easily install the brush assembly in place).
- We put the rotor in place.
- We install and fix the brush assembly, having previously seated the brushes in their seats.
- We install brush springs into the holes that covered the stops and bend the stops back.
- Install the fan support and impeller.
- We install the repaired fan on the car.
