The injector takes a long time to start due to DTOZH

Symptoms

The approximate time that is considered long and for which the engine starts is 5 or 8 seconds. In this case, twitching is definitely observed in the first seconds of operation of the internal combustion engine. At times it seems that the engine is operating on only two cylinders, and not four.

If you press the accelerator before starting, the start will be faster. But at the same time, fuel consumption and engine warm-up time will increase until the speed drops to normal. Another inseparable companion of such a situation is black exhaust.

Obviously, black smoke from the muffler directly indicates that the fuel is not completely consumed and remains in the cylinders.

Operating principle

The quantity and quality of the fuel mixture in the injector is controlled electronically. Sensors are located throughout the engine unit, the signals from which are intercepted from the microprocessor and converted to the fuel supply system. The same processor controls the mixture ignition system in the combustion chamber

If any sensor malfunctions, the output control pulse ceases to correspond to the parameters of the normal functioning of the engine, and it refuses to work, in other words, it does not start.

Why is the injector difficult to start?

In this case, if on a VAZ 21093 (injector) car there are dips and jerks at the moment of transition from idle, there is a malfunction in the throttle position regulator.

Please note that this is not a sensor, but an actuator. It does not read, but controls the position of the rotor. The water temperature sensor in the engine cooling system often burns out.

Here there is a slight increase in gasoline consumption and with a hot engine it is sometimes difficult to start.

Listen to whether the fuel pump is running when the ignition is turned on. If there is no corresponding sound, then check the fuses on the VAZ 21093 (injector). Specifically, the one that is responsible for supplying power to the fuel pump and its electrical relay.

It would also be a good idea to check the presence of power on all sensors of the accounting system. Check all vehicle wiring for breaks. If our customer remains ok, but the car does not start, then there is mainly a glitch in the software installed in the ECU.

Here you will have to contact 100 for a working version of diagnostics and firmware of the microcontroller.

Possible factors

If the VAZ 2109 engine does not start well on the injector or carburetor. The engine seizes and instantly turns off or does not start at all. This may be a consequence of many factors. It’s worth starting with the most obvious faults.

Need to consider:

The fact of supplying fuel to the engine;
Charge the battery and its terminals;
Presence of a spark in the candles;
Air supply.

On-board power system

Problems with starting the injector on the 2109 especially manifest themselves in winter, on cars that while away the nights in cold garages and “in an open field.” The morning for them begins with a long warm-up. However, after being in the cold

, the battery loses all its performance and requires recharging. That is why most motorists take the battery with them to a warm apartment in winter.

Particularly advanced car enthusiasts place a hairdryer under the air filter, trying to supply warm air to the cylinders and give the engine “artificial respiration” - they say it can help.

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Useful tips

If you can’t start a carburetor engine, you should try the following:

lift the hood and perform a visual inspection of the carburetor;
Check the secure fastening of all terminals and wiring. After all, sometimes the problem is in a loose terminal, therefore, without checking it, the entire carburetor is subject to repair. Financial costs increase significantly;
Sometimes the cause of poor starting of the car is overheating of the fuel pump. If it is too hot, it may soon fail, and it is better to purchase and install a new one;
At the same time, it is necessary to evaluate the performance of oil filters.

Why does a hot engine stall?

The situation when the car stalls while driving is even less pleasant. What should be done?

The behavior of the Hall sensor on the carburetor is checked. This sensor is held on the distributor by two bolts. You need to unscrew the fasteners and replace the old sensor with a new one. Then put everything back together and check how the carburetor works.
Understand the current performance of the switch.
Replace both parts as necessary.
Blow out the fuel pipes. If they are damaged, they must be replaced immediately.
You need to find the timing belt, remove it, and evaluate the condition of the teeth. If you find that they are worn out, change the belt.
If the cause is not found by visual inspection of contacts, tubes and other components, you will have to disassemble the carburetor.
Let a trusted carburetor technician handle the carburetor adjustments. It’s a good idea to undergo a full diagnostic at a car service center.

How to start in cold weather?

First you need to get into the car's interior, sometimes this can be more difficult to do than starting a cold engine. You should not rush to turn the starter right away; first try to “stir up” the sleepy battery. You don’t need to shake it or do anything else with it, just turn on the high beams for a few seconds, that will be enough.

Pump fuel into the carburetor using the fuel pump or gas pedal. After this, pull the choke handle towards you and depress the clutch pedal. Only now can you turn the key in the ignition. The duration of activation should not be more than 10 seconds, otherwise the battery will discharge prematurely. After an unsuccessful start, you need to wait a few minutes and try again. If after 3-4 attempts the startup fails, you need to try to identify the reasons for the failure.

Check the spark plugs; they may be filled with excess fuel. With the spark plugs turned out, crank the engine with the starter, this will purge the engine cylinders. Screw the dry spark plugs into place and try to start the power unit. Experienced drivers have a set of spare spark plugs in cold weather.

Poor engine starting on a cold VAZ 21099 injector

The car is 2005 (21099 injector), I bought a new one, the problems started in the first winter. In warm weather or 1-2 hours after warming up, it starts with half a turn. But in cold weather in the morning, or after parking for more than 2 hours, starting it for at least 15-20 minutes is no longer realistic. At first a couple of minutes was enough, but it got worse and worse.

The plot is like this, at first it doesn’t even paw for 10-15 starts for 2-5 seconds, then sometimes it starts to pick up. If you drive it quickly for a couple of seconds in a row, wait 15 seconds, it starts, but after a couple of seconds it stalls again. After several such attempts it picks up. Then it warms up and drives all day - starts without problems. There is traction and everything is ok. In the morning everything starts from the beginning.

According to guesses, there is clearly not enough fuel when it is cold. Since after starting the traction is super, and everything else is also no problem.

Today, after 25 minutes of trying to start it, it was still not possible; in the end, sometimes it would start for 2-4 seconds, then it would stall. There is definitely gasoline in the tank. Tomorrow for service - but tell me where to start, since there are a lot of smart people at services.

PS What I noticed is that you can’t hear the fuel pump working, since during the day its buzzing for a couple of seconds is clearly audible, but not during a cold start.

Today I went for diagnostics. Nothing really worked out. I asked a friend to tow me to the diagnostics in the morning so that the car would be cold. So while the sensors were connected for a maximum of about 5 minutes in a warm garage, it started up almost the first time. But we noticed that the fuel pressure first dropped. They pushed me outside for a couple of hours.

A couple of hours later, already on the street with sensors and a laptop, when trying to start, the whims began again, but here the reason was obvious - voltage was not supplied to the fuel pump when it was cold.

They said there could be two reasons: 1) the alarm system, since the relay is in a power supply to the fuel pump, 2) the on-board computer itself is faulty.

So we ended up disconnecting the alarm (relay) for today to see what happens tomorrow morning. If it doesn’t help, I don’t even know, since the BC itself costs a lot (they said it’s a new type).

One more thing, they said the air sensor was not very good, showed about 2.6 something, they said it should be about 3. And the antifreeze temperature sensor showed too high a temperature, outside it was about 0, showed +8.5 (this sensor was replaced with a new one right away).

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Diagnostics

Diagnostics why the car takes a long time to start the injector

So, to determine the specific reason for the long start-up of an injection-injected internal combustion engine, you should start with a high-quality diagnosis. Usually, they check the compression in the cylinders. Its values must be within 12 atm for this to be considered normal. In this case, there should be no deviations between these indicators in each of the cylinders (maximum - 1 atm).

Then the spark plugs must be replaced. This will have an effect on the engine and it will now start much faster. However, if everything is not in order with the motor, then the normal starting time will last only 1-2 days.

Therefore, high-voltage wires should also be diagnosed. Diagnostics will make it possible to find out whether the cables have a breakdown, which is clearly visible by the spark coming out at night. This is done as follows: the car starts in the dark, at the same time you need to monitor which wire sparks.

The ignition coil also needs to be checked. Many experienced drivers do this: they install a known good and new module instead of the original one, then check the engine starting for several days. If everything is normal, the start-up does not take long - it means that the whole problem was in the bobbin (ignition coil).

If there are no changes, the test continues. This time you should test all filters, including the air filter. Next is checking and replacing all sensors and regulators. Pay special attention to the mass air flow sensor.

The next stage: testing various connections, checking the wiring for good contact, cleaning the masses and flushing the throttle assembly.

If nothing changes again, then it is recommended to check the engine fan relay. It often causes similar problems with starting on a fuel-injected internal combustion engine. You can test the relay if you remove the wire from the temperature controller installed on the thermostat.

Engine fan relay

The fan should turn on after these steps. However, after measuring the resistance value on a warm internal combustion engine, the system can produce low temperature data, although the temperature inside the engine is clearly more than 90 degrees. Why is there such a difference? It turns out that this may well be a buggy DTOZH, which for some reason was not checked earlier. It must show the real coolant temperature, otherwise chaos will begin in the system, and it is not surprising that the engine takes so long to start.

Why doesn't a hot VAZ-2109 start?

When the engine is running, a considerable amount of air passes through the carburetor, cooling it. The same thing happens with gasoline. It turns out that when the engine is running, the carburetor is heated up much less than the engine itself. This temperature ratio remains unchanged until the engine stops running. As soon as the engine stops working, the carburetor begins to heat up from the hot engine body.

Since there is no air flow, the carburetor takes heat away from the engine in a very short period of time. At the same time, a certain amount of gasoline that remains in the float chamber intensively evaporates due to the high temperature, filling the intake manifold, air filter and the carburetor itself. Nothing remains in the float chamber itself, but gas plugs form in the fuel system.

Further developments depend on the time the engine is stopped and the ambient temperature. If the stop time is from 5 to 30 minutes and the engine starts, the combustion chambers will receive a mixture over-enriched in fuel vapors. As a result, the consistency is disrupted and dry spark plugs are filled with fuel. We got to the main reason for poor engine starting.

Incorrect engine start of VAZ 2109

Before drawing any conclusions, it is necessary to ensure that the driver correctly follows the requirements for starting a cold engine. For these purposes, carburetor engines have a manual throttle control drive. Without using this mechanism, starting the car, especially in cold weather, is quite problematic.

You need to start the engine in the following sequence:

Open the hood and pump up fuel using the manual fuel pump pedal
Pull the choke control handle towards you
Pump gasoline into the manifold using the accelerator pedal
Without pressing the gas pedal, start the engine

You may not be able to start the engine the first time. But the second time it should. You also need to pay attention to pumping gasoline with the gas pedal. The main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise you can fill the spark plugs and then the engine will definitely not start. If this does happen and the car does not start, then press the pedal all the way, turn on the starter and, while it rotates, slowly release the gas pedal.

Rare situations

They happen noticeably less frequently than those we described above. But under no circumstances should we exclude them.

After reviewing the situations below, compare them with the behavior of your starter and a car that has stopped turning or clicks but does not turn.

With an injection engine at a frosty temperature of about -20 degrees Celsius, all devices function. This indicates that the battery is fully charged. At the same time, for some reason the starter refuses to turn. Your actions:
If there is a clicking noise, the most likely source of the problem is the solenoid relay. It must be replaced.

The engine started normally throughout the day, but in the evening it suddenly stopped working normally. When you turn the key in the ignition switch, there is only a click, but the starter does not turn. When you try to start the engine several times in a row, several clicks are heard. Your actions: Charge the battery;
Crimp, strip and tighten the contacts on the starter and battery;
If the first two points do not produce results, check the battery itself. To do this, the wire closes its contacts. If the battery is working properly, a spark will appear that melts the wire;
Connect the plus from the battery directly to the solenoid relay. If the starter is silent, replace the starter.

car battery

During the day the car started without problems. But after being idle for several minutes, attempts to start the car fail. When you turn the key, the relay is activated, but the starter stubbornly refuses to turn. By closing the two bolts of the solenoid relay, everything started. We reached our destination, stopped, and turned off the engine. When I try to start again, the same situation occurs. Just locking the bolts no longer works. Your actions:
Check the condition of the brushes. There is a high probability that they have been completely erased. Hence this effect;
Replace the brushes with new ones. This is cheaper than completely replacing the unit.

The starter doesn't turn over. When you try to close it, only noise arises, like when a drill is working. The engine shows no signs of life. But it was possible to start it from the pushrod without any problems. Your actions:
If everything is fine with it, go to the mounting block and check the fuses;
Also examine the condition of the ignition switch. It is possible that the problem is with him;
Do not forget to check the wiring for breaks and short circuits;
Check the status of the contacts. It’s not uncommon that minus does not reach the starter relay only for the banal reason of oxidation or burnt wire.

We recommend: How to fix a dent on a car with your own hands?

Having understood the reasons for the failure of the starter, you can bring the device back to life on your own. Don't rush to throw away your old starter and buy a new one. The practice of VAZ 2109 owners shows that partial repairs, and sometimes even simple cleaning of the device, make it possible to restore the functionality of one of the main elements of the ignition system for a long time.

VAZ 21099 starts poorly

Hi all! Here’s a question: I replaced the fuel pump assembly (new mesh filter, respectively), replaced the fuel pressure regulator, washed the injectors, and installed a new fuel filter on the bottom of the car. The pressure in the rail is low again. Before that, I had the mistake of using a new fuel pump motor (and diagnostics showed that the check valve on the fuel pump was stuck). I thought about a check valve, clamped the return pipe, the pressure was normal again, as soon as I drove it, there was no pressure again.

I decided to replace the fuel pump, but the problem is the same, there is no pressure again intermittently. What should I do? VAZ car, 2003, injector, 8 cells. Everything in the car, except for the injectors and ignition switch, is completely new. I went to the diagnostician and he said that the settings were lost due to the fact that the terminals were constantly being removed. And your mixture settings are wrong. Leveled the CO.

Fuel consumption has also increased. He checked and said that the fuel pump motor had been changed, and he had changed it! Here the check valve is stuck, I showed how to run it through the pipe every time, which goes to the ramp. So, I got tired of doing this every time, I decided to replace the entire fuel pump, the pressure began to hold in the ramp (before this it did not hold, it drained back).

Today I left home for work, I started it, but again it starts badly, the starter does 6 circles and only then starts! First from the first sound of the starter cranking, then again. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s cold or hot. I just don’t have the strength anymore, that again, I don’t even know anymore. I just set the marks, the ignition has nothing to do with it, I’m already giving up. You look at such Cheharaks driving around, and here all the spare parts, all the pipes are new! And the day goes normally, then again 25. Help with practical advice, eh! I would buy a new one, but I have no money. Thank you in advance!

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Diagnostics of contactless ignition system

Sometimes the VAZ 2109 does not start the first time.
The reason for this may probably be located in the ignition system. In recent years, cars have been equipped with a contactless system. Checking this system does not require any special tools. Everything can be purchased at your nearest auto supply store.

It is more rational to carry out diagnostics of the MD-1 sensor. It is connected to the place of the switch. Next, turn on the ignition.

Working with the sensor is very simple. It has three indicators:

“P” – indicates the proper functioning of the ignition switch;
“K” – shows the state of the primary winding;
“D” – shows the proper operation of the hall sensors when the starter is turned on.

If all indicators work, then there are no malfunctions.

Injectors

Due to the “high-quality” domestic fuel, injectors tend to become clogged with slag more often than is provided for by the standards for their uninterrupted operation. Checking them is as simple as checking for the presence of a spark in the candles. If you just attach the spark plugs to the engine body and turn the starter to see the presence or absence of a spark, then you can check the injector using the same principle.

It is unscrewed and the engine is cranked with the starter. The injector should produce a uniform and correct cone of gasoline flame. If gasoline is squeezed out of it drop by drop, it means it is clogged. But the injector cannot be cleaned with the same ease as a spark plug.

Causes

How long does it take for a VAZ 2110 injector to start? There may be several reasons; they will be discussed in some detail below. Let's list the main

failure of the timing belt;
wear of insulation on high-voltage wires;
temperature sensor failure;
interruptions in the operation of the ignition module (its failure).

The list is not exhaustive, but it identifies the main causes of engine starting problems. The analysis provides the only sure way to avoid problems - it is enough to carry out preventive inspections and replace questionable components in a timely manner (for example, sensors are guaranteed to last for 60,000 km.

). Of course, this advice is not able to console those who have already encountered a breakdown, but for the future...

Let's talk about the listed breakdowns in a little more detail. As for the timing belt, everything is clear here - it must be replaced as it wears out.

Wire insulation

may be damaged during the operation of the car - for example, the ignition module wire often melts from high temperature (it is located in close proximity to the cylinder head, and it regularly overheats).

There may be other reasons for the violation of the integrity of the insulation. The resulting short circuits prevent the engine from starting - and this deficiency can occur periodically.

Temperature sensor

. If there is a problem with this part (and even more so if it fails), problems arise with testing by the on-board computer - it is not able to correctly determine the engine temperature and, accordingly, the required amount of fuel mixture. The only (and least expensive) method of “treatment” is to replace the sensor. You can, of course, test it for functionality, but this requires special equipment.

Ignition module. Repairing it at home is quite complicated, so the “recipe” is the same - replacement. If it is possible to temporarily install a known-good module and try to start with it, then it’s worth a try.

Candles

. Apparently, troubleshooting needs to start with them. Soot, the presence of traces of fuel and other deviations from the norm confidently indicate incorrect operation. See signs of bad spark plugs.

For a beginner, the best solution would be to completely replace the set; people who are not unfamiliar with technical skills can try to “revive” the candles - thoroughly wipe them, clean them from carbon deposits, heat them with a blowtorch, etc. If after replacement the spark plugs are refilled, then there is a high probability that the integrity of the insulation in the high-voltage wires will be damaged.

By the way, with the help of a working spark plug it is easy to check for the presence of a spark: you need to place the spark plug on the ground of the car with a metal surface and start the starter. The absence of a spark indicates problems with the power supply, but in a positive case, you need to continue diagnostics.

Let us mention one more reason for the malfunction: low throughput of the fuel filter. This is entirely on the conscience of the car owner, who ignored the timely replacement of the part, although it is possible that the filter becomes clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel.

The timing marks on the VAZ are not set correctly

Another reason why the VAZ 2114 does not start may be a mismatch of the timing marks. The reason for the mismatch of the marks may be weak timing belt tension, cut teeth, or the crooked hands of a mechanic at a service station.

A discrepancy of more than two teeth will noticeably affect the operation of the engine of the fourteenth. With a slight deviation, the engine starts up a little worse, does not hold idle, and stalls when switching to neutral gear. If the deviation exceeds 4-5 teeth, the sound of the engine changes, air escaping under pressure through the valves that are not opened in time becomes audible, thrust noticeably disappears, and starting the engine is extremely problematic.

To check, we need a “10” key; use it to unscrew the three bolts securing the timing case.
Next, put the car in 5th gear and push it until the mark on the camshaft pulley and the rear cover match, you can also turn the pulley with the key to “17”
We remove the protective plug from the clutch housing and see if the mark on the flywheel matches the mark; if not, then you need to loosen the tension roller and align the belt according to the marks.

Checking the crankshaft sensor VAZ 2114

Perhaps this is the only sensor without which a VAZ car will not be able to start at all. If, when the engine is cranked with the starter and the ignition and fuel supply are working properly, there is no seizure or ignition of the fuel, then the problem is in the DPKV. The cost of the sensor does not exceed 300 rubles; it is better to replace it. However, there is a way to check: checking the crankshaft sensor video

If after the performed operations it was not possible to determine the breakdown, please write your problem in the comments, I will be happy to answer your question!

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

We inserted the key, turned it, the lights came on, and the fuel pump started pumping. It is located at the end of the body, under the passenger seat, so you should hear its noise from the rear of the car. If there is no noise, then the problem is in the fuel pump, its wiring or a battery that is set to zero. For more detailed information, go to the article: The fuel pump does not pump. Causes.

Appeal to professionals

The reasons and ways to eliminate them briefly discussed here will hopefully answer the question of why the VAZ 2110 injector takes so long to start.

Let us make a reservation that even a non-specialist is capable of carrying out basic diagnostics of a car, however, it is quite possible that this will not be enough - the causes of a malfunction can be complex, i.e., in some cases there are several prerequisites for delaying engine starting. The best solution is to seek help from professionals (car service).

Often, owners of VAZ Nines are faced with a problem when the car is difficult to start when cold. It’s worth warning right away that there may be several reasons for this. Therefore, it is best to start your search with the simplest, gradually moving on to more complex ones.

If the carburetor starts to stall at idle

This situation often occurs in carburetor VAZ-2109 cars. You can do the following with your own hands:

needle replacement;
cleaning the jets in the solenoid valve;
replacing the idle speed sensor if a fault is detected in it;
Sometimes the needle valve gets stuck. There is a popular effective method. If the carburetor does not want to start when hot, a spring is put on the valve;
The solenoid valve control unit and wiring are checked. And then the car will start.

If you turn to an experienced carburetor for advice, he, based on his practice, will definitely tell you that by carefully inspecting the car’s components and replacing worn and damaged carburetor elements, their previous functionality will return. And then the car will start without problems - whether hot or cold.