How to check the ignition module on a VAZ-2112 16 valves with a multimeter

Ignition module

As mentioned above, the “ten” has 4 engine types: 16 and 8 valve internal combustion engines, as well as with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 liters. This will lead to differences in the ignition modules. Depending on the installed engine with a certain volume, its own ignition module will be installed.

Differences

Differences in MZ: on the left 1.6 liters, on the right 1.5 liters 16 valves
The main differences between the modules will be the size and mounting holes. In a 1.5 liter internal combustion engine, the ignition module is larger in size in contrast to the 1.6 liter engine. The cost of the modules depends on the manufacturers, but it should be noted that the MZ from a 1.5 liter engine is always more expensive than a 1.6 liter one.

16 valve MZ

In a 16-valve internal combustion engine, the ignition module is installed on the valve cover near the oil filler neck.

8 valve MZ

The MZ on an 8-valve engine is installed on the front of the cylinder block between the dipstick and the breather.

About an individual ignition coil

In modern cars, individual ignition coils (ICO) are used to supply a spark to the cylinder. Older cars use ignition modules, meaning one module is entirely responsible for firing all cylinders. An individual ignition coil is responsible only for the operation of one cylinder in which it is installed.

IKZ began to be installed on VAZ cars, starting with the Lada Priora car on the 126th engine. An ignition module is still installed on 8-valve VAZ engines. The car's on-board network uses low-voltage voltage, which is not capable of itself forming a powerful spark necessary for engine operation. Therefore, ignition coils are used to supply high voltage voltage.

Device

The ignition module has a common structure regardless of engine size. Inside the switch there are two high-voltage coils and an electronic circuit with many keys.

The coils are designed to switch high voltage and supply it to the spark plug to form a reliable spark in the combustion chamber of the engine.

The ignition module produces a spark in pairs, that is, each of the coils located inside the module is responsible for generating a spark on two cylinders: the first-fourth, the second-third.

• VAZ 2110 ignition module - check, replacement and repair

Symptoms of a problem

Based on some signs, it can be determined that the culprit of a malfunctioning internal combustion engine is the MZ. Below is a small list of symptoms indicating failure of the MH.

Signs:

• Failure of two cylinders at once, namely 1-4 or 2-3;
• Increased fuel consumption;
• Detonation at idle speed;
• The engine does not develop power;
• Difficult starting on a hot internal combustion engine;

These signs indicate a malfunction in the ignition system. These signs also apply to other possible breakdowns: spark plugs, wires and even injectors, but first of all you need to pay attention to the MH.

Do-it-yourself installation of the VAZ 2112 ignition module

1. Having picked up the new coil, first install it in its place by tightening the two nuts that secure it.
2. Then place two wires on the sides of the coil and secure them with retaining nuts.
3. When installing two side wires, pay attention to the markings that are marked on the sides of the ignition coil (see photo below). So this marking indicates which terminal of the coil should be connected to this or that wire. The blue wire must be connected to the “B” marking, and the red wire must be connected to the “K” marking!

4. Then place the high-voltage wire on the central part of the ignition coil.
5. And then install the negative terminal on the battery.

On old ignition coils, as a rule, instead of the letters “B” and “K”, the designations “-” and “+” are used, which means the same thing, but only in signs. The blue wire must be connected to the “-” sign, and the red wire must be connected to the “+” sign!

Module check

After signs similar to failure of the ignition module appear, it must be checked before buying a new one, since its cost is not cheap.

There are three ways to check: substitution, visual inspection and a multimeter.

Substitution

The best and easiest way to check the MZ is to install another known good one from another exactly the same car. After which it will immediately become clear what the matter is and whether the Ministry of Health is to blame for this problem.

Visual inspection

It is necessary to inspect the module for chips, cracks, etc. There should be no damage to it. There should be no moisture or rust on the contact part.

Multimeter

Testing with a multimeter is carried out using the results of voltage and resistance measurements. This will help identify the cause of the failure of the module or its control circuit.

Step by step check

• Remove the power supply from the module. On the multimeter we set the DC voltage measurement limit to 20V. We turn on the ignition on the car and connect the multimeter contact on one side to the power block (namely to connector 15), and on the other side to the engine housing. The voltage between pin 15 and the motor housing must be at least 11-12V. Otherwise, the power supply circuit of the MH is faulty, or the battery is discharged.

• Next, we check the resistance on the VAZ 2110 ignition module itself. We set the multimeter to the resistance measurement parameter, namely 200 Ohms. We connect the multimeter probes to the high-voltage terminals of the MZ: 1-4, 2-3. The resistance of these coils, with a working MC, should be within 5 ohms.

• Then the resistance at the MC input is checked. One multimeter probe is connected to the central contact and the resistance is measured first on the leftmost contact and then on the rightmost one. The resistance should be in the 5 ohm range.

Checking the ignition coil

There are two reliable ways to check IKZ: visual inspection and checking with a multimeter.

It should be noted that the IKZ check is similar for all Lada cars with a 16-valve engine, i.e. the check on cars such as LADA Vesta and X-ray will be the same.

In order to check the ignition coil, it must be removed from the car.

Removing IKZ:

• Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
• Remove the decorative plastic trim.
• We unscrew the coil we need with a “10” or Torx E8 head.
• Remove the coil plug and remove it.

Visual inspection

After the coil is removed, it must be carefully inspected. The rubber tip should not have tears or cracks. The plastic part must not be melted or cracked. The contact spring must be in the correct shape without oxidation or rust.

Cracks in the coils or tears in the rubber cap will direct the spark to the engine body, therefore, no current will be supplied to the spark plug, which will lead to misfires.

If such visual faults are detected, the coil must be replaced.

Checking with a multimeter

Testing with a multimeter is divided into two stages. Checking the resistance of the IKZ itself and checking the control voltage of the IKZ (checking the voltage on the IKZ power supply block).

Let's start by checking the voltage at the IKZ power supply.

To do this, set the switch on the multimiter to constant voltage.

Turn on the car ignition

On the block in connector number 3 we take a measurement (we connect one multimeter probe to the motor body and the other to pin number 3) the voltage should be at least 12 volts. If the voltage is less, this means that the battery is discharged or the ECU controller is faulty.

Checking the IKZ resistance

In order to check the resistance of the IKZ, you need to use a multimeter. It should be noted that resistance measurements must be carried out on a cold engine, because The resistance of the coil windings strongly depends on its temperature.

To check the resistance, it is necessary to check two windings, the secondary and the primary.

Checking the primary winding of the IKZ

When checking the primary winding of the IKZ, it is necessary to set the resistance readings on the multimeter, namely 200 Ohms. Since the resistance readings on the primary winding are not large, and the error of the device is possible, you first need to find out the error of the multimeter. In order to find out the error, you need to close the probes together, the value that will be reflected on the multimeter screen will be the error.

Next, we connect the multimeter probes to contacts 1 and 3 (the outermost contacts of the IKZ) and obtain resistance readings. From these readings we subtract the multimeter error and get the true value of the resistance of the primary winding.

Ideally, the resistance of the primary winding should be about 1 Ohm, or better yet 0.

In this example, the reading is 1.1 Ohm without taking into account the error; from 1.1 Ohm we subtract 0.7 Ohm to get 0.4 Ohm. Verdict: the primary winding of this IKZ is in working condition.

Checking the secondary winding of the IKZ

In order to check the secondary winding of the IKZ, set the multimeter to 2000 kOhm.

We connect the red multimeter probe to the spring, and the black one to the middle contact on the IKZ (pin 2). We look at the readings of the device; on a working coil, the resistance of the secondary winding should be in the range of 300-400 kOhm.

As we see, the readings of the secondary winding are also within the normal range. It follows that this IKZ is working.

If the readings are too high, you can try removing the rubber cap and spring from the coil and cleaning the contact patch, then measure the resistance directly again without the spring. If the resistance reading still does not decrease, you should think about replacing the ICP.

The easiest method to detect a faulty ignition coil, without any devices or instruments. This is a reversal of the IKZ.

Cost and article

The table below shows the cost of the VAZ 2110 ignition module depending on the manufacturer and VAZ engine size.

• Checking the ignition module with a multimeter

Replacement

Replacement is quite simple and effortless. To replace, you will need a ratchet with an extension and a 10mm socket.

Replacement process

• We remove the negative mark from the battery, since the work is carried out on the electrical equipment of the car. This will avoid an unintentional short circuit in the vehicle's network.

• We remove the high-voltage wires from the MZ and the power connector.

• We unscrew the nuts securing the MZ and dismantle it.

• Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Pay attention to the order in which the wires are connected. Do not confuse them, otherwise the car engine will not start. Cylinder numbering starts from the timing mechanism from left to right. Connect the wires as it is written on the Ministry of Health.

We hope our article was useful to you.

Removing and replacing the ignition coil

In order to replace the module (ignition coil) on a VAZ 2112, you must perform the following steps:

1. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery by disconnecting the “-” terminal from it. (How to de-energize a battery.
2. Then, approaching the ignition coil, disconnect one single high-voltage wire from its central part.

3. Next, use a wrench to remove the two side nuts that hold the ends of the wires in place on the side of the coil.

4. Next, when the nuts are unscrewed, remove both side wires from the coil.

5. And to complete the operation, unscrew the two side nuts securing the ignition coil itself to the bracket.
   Read also:  Niva VAZ transfer case - do-it-yourself repair and replacement
6. And then remove the coil from the car engine.

Ways to independently check the ignition module

Some gasoline engines that are installed on modern domestic and imported cars are equipped with ignition modules, which are a pulsed high-voltage current source. There are situations when these devices fail, leading to a complete or partial loss of performance of the car engine. Ways to check for a malfunction in the ignition module in a garage are covered in this article.

Design and principle of operation of the ignition module

Some old-school motorists call the modules double-spark coils, which makes sense. After all, the coil is the predecessor of the ignition module in the technical evolutionary chain. The module is a paired design consisting of two pairs of windings (primary and secondary) and a switch that alternately switches low-voltage current from one coil to another. In some models of double-spark coils, the commutator is structurally located outside the block.

The operation of the module is controlled from an electronic unit that collects and analyzes information from various working components of the engine. The block, unlike the classic coil, has 4 sockets for connecting high voltage wires going to the spark plugs. The pulse occurs in pairs, first at terminals 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. That is, each of the built-in coils is responsible for the operation of two cylinders. A spark occurs simultaneously, as a pair.

This is what one of the ignition module models looks like. The connector for connecting incoming wires is visible at the top.

At the input, the ignition module has a connector with four terminals. Usually most models have markings opposite them. Pulses from the Hall sensor alternately arrive at contacts A and B, serving as a signal to switch the commutator from one primary winding to another. C and D – ground and power supply (12 V), respectively.

Possible causes of failure

The weak point of the ignition coils and modules is the secondary winding, which generates a high voltage pulse. A coil break or breakdown may occur in it. The following factors lead to this phenomenon:

1. use of low-quality or unsuitable candles;
2. operation with non-functioning high voltage wires;
3. frequent attempts to check the spark.

The high-voltage pulse arising in the secondary winding must be realized (spent). If this does not happen (if the integrity of a high voltage wire is broken, for example), a high-energy electrical pulse seeks an outlet. He will find it, with a high degree of probability, in the thin secondary winding.

• How to check the ignition module of a VAZ 2115 injector

Often, a module malfunction occurs when the integrity of poor-quality factory soldering of wires going to the switch elements is violated. This happens from vibration. Also, the cause of non-working coils can be a banal contact failure in the incoming connector. Another factor leading to a malfunction of the ignition unit is often moisture that gets on the device during washing or driving in unusual conditions.

Symptoms of a problem

It is extremely rare for two built-in coils to fail at once, so it is more likely to be possible to start the engine with a faulty unit. However, even an inexperienced driver will immediately suspect something is wrong. The malfunction will appear as follows:

1. unstable (floating) idle speed;
2. the engine has difficulty picking up speed;
3. characteristic sound of the engine (triple);
4. jerking when accelerating (while moving).

Operating a car with such a breakdown is possible (you can drive to a garage or car service station), but it is not advisable unless absolutely necessary.

Similar signs of unstable engine operation are possible with a number of other ignition or fuel supply faults. To differentiate possible breakdowns, the performance of the ignition unit should be determined. It would be useful to check the contacts of the wires coming to the device, as well as their integrity.

Checking module power

Before testing the performance of the coils, you should make sure that a possible breakdown is not caused by a loss of power to the device. First, you need to try to simply restore contact by moving it several times or disconnecting/connecting the block of wires included in the connector. If such manipulation does not lead to improved engine performance, a tester (multimeter) is used to determine the quality of incoming pulses.

The block of wires is removed from the connector. On the block, each terminal (A, B, C, D) has a corresponding socket. Testing with the engine running is done as follows.

• The first contact of the tester is in socket D, the second is to ground. The multimeter switch position is 20 volts. If there is power, the tester shows 12 volts.
• The first contact is in socket C, the second is ground. Switch on ohmmeter (20 Ohm). Normally it shows less than 1 ohm, that is, the mass is normal.
• The first contact is in socket B, the second is ground. 20 volt switch. The norm is not less than 0.3 volts. If this is so, it means that a normal pulse is coming from the Hall sensor to position B.
• Contact A is checked similarly to the previous one.

If such a check shows the norm, you need to test the module. If not, look for the cause in the electrical circuit to the coil.

Methods for diagnosing device performance

The simplest method that will help determine the performance of the coil is to replace it with a similar working device. This is possible if there is somewhere to get it. Please note that the module must match the parameters of the device under test. If the engine with a working coil works as before the breakdown, the ignition module is definitely faulty.

The main testing method involves using a multimeter. It consists in determining the resistance of the secondary windings of the coils built into the ignition module. The method is simple and does not require additional skills. The device does not need to be removed for testing. The check is done with the engine turned off.

This is how you check the resistance of the secondary winding with a multimeter

• High-voltage wires are removed from the module sockets.
• The tester switch is set to the 20 kOhm position.
• The multimeter rods are placed in turn in the recesses of the corresponding contact pairs (1 and 4, 2 and 3).
• With an intact secondary winding, the performance in both cases is the same. Normally, the resistance should be about 5.4 kOhm (in some models the indicators differ, which needs to be clarified). If the resistance is much greater, then there is a winding break. The resistance is much lower - a breakdown. The coil is faulty and cannot be repaired.

Video: How to check the secondary winding with a multimeter

When is there an option to repair?

If during testing both secondary windings show integrity and serviceability, the reason for the inoperability of the coils may be a break in the soldering of the switch wires. Such damage is detected when the rear cover of the module is removed. If you have a soldering iron and know how to use it, you can restore the integrity of damaged contacts, while at the same time strengthening the rest. This, unfortunately, is the only failure of the ignition module that can be repaired.

Testing the ignition module can be done using simple do-it-yourself instruments. Based on our advice, you will be able to fully check both the module itself and other elements of the mechanism that may be the cause of the breakdown. We wish you success in this matter!

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Purpose and principle of operation

Ignition module VAZ 2110

The ignition module of a modern car performs the function of generating high voltage to produce a spark at the spark plugs. It consists of two coils with a closed magnetic circuit and a two-channel switch. Sometimes the switch is made as a separate device, but in most cases it is combined with an electronic control unit for the engine. Externally, the modules differ in the number of wires in the connection connector: a module with a switch has 4 wires, and paired coils have 3.

The ignition module is controlled by the ECU, which supplies constant voltage in the form of low-voltage control signals to the windings of its coils at the right moment. The end of the signal is the beginning of the spark. Thanks to magnetic induction, at the moment of application, a high voltage is generated, creating a spark at the spark plug. The device is located in the engine compartment and can be easily identified by the high-voltage wires leading to the spark plugs.

Types and differences of VAZ ignition coils

A car's gasoline engine operates by burning fuel. To ensure ignition, an electric spark is required, which is formed between the electrodes of the glow plug. They have a small gap that the spark must overcome. This is feasible when high voltage (tens of thousands of volts) is applied to the spark plug.

The vehicle's on-board system is not designed for such loads, and the equipment that supplies electricity is not capable of producing such values.

To solve this problem, a coil is introduced into the car's ignition system, creating a high voltage. A component of the vehicle's ignition system converts low voltage to high voltage (depending on the characteristics of the part from 6-12 V to 35,000 V). The tasks performed by the coil are determined by the structural features of the element. It consists of primary and secondary windings, which are housed in an insulated housing.

Attention! If malfunctions occur, it is recommended to check all engine components: from the valves and cylinder block to the ignition coil or module

Signs of a malfunctioning ignition module

Checking the ignition module with a removed spark plug

A malfunction of the ignition module is determined by the following symptoms:

1. Difficulty starting a cold engine due to lack of spark on one or more spark plugs.
2. Floating engine speed at idle is a situation in which the speed changes without any action on the part of the driver.
3. Dips in power, which manifests itself during acceleration and driving up a long climb.
4. Decrease in engine power.
5. Cylinders 1-4 or 2-3 do not work (engine “troits”).
6. Indication of the “Check Engine” indicator.

Possible causes of ignition module malfunction

Despite the high reliability and durability of the ignition module, during operation it can fail, like any other mechanism. Among all possible causes of breakdowns, in 9 out of 10 cases the following occur and are diagnosed:

1. Use of inappropriate components in the ignition system. High-voltage wires are selected based on the parameters of the module, since excessively high or low voltage creates malfunctions or burns out contacts.
2. Defective or damaged parts, poor quality assembly. Defective components break down faster and damage other components or elements of the system. Practice shows that the selection of high-quality components and their periodic diagnostics allow the module to remain operational for a long time.

Checking the ignition module

Checking the ignition module for functionality is carried out in the following ways:

Replacing the ignition module with a known good one

1. The easiest way is to connect a known working module. In this case, the devices must be completely identical, the high-voltage wires are in good condition, and the reliability of the contacts has been checked.

Checking the contacts on the ignition module

2. Moving the module, which allows you to identify unreliable contacts. To do this, move the wire block and the module itself. If during exposure the engine reacts by changing its operation, then the cause of the problem lies in poor contact.

Measuring resistance at the terminals of the ignition module

3. Resistance measurement. To do this, you will need a tester switched to ohmmeter mode. Measurements are carried out on the paired terminals of the module between cylinders 1 and 4, as well as cylinders 2 and 3. The resistance value should be the same and approach 5.4 kOhm.

Checking the ignition module using a tester

4. Check the voltage with a tester. One probe of the device is applied to contact A of the block, the second to ground. After turning on the ignition, take readings from the device. If the wire is in good condition, it will show a voltage of 12 V; if it is missing, check the fuse protecting the ignition module. Then check the continuity of the circuit with a 12 V test lamp. Apply one end of the wire to contact A and rotate the starter. If the lamp does not blink, the circuit is broken. The procedure is repeated in a similar way with other contacts.

Diagnostics of the ignition module with professional equipment

5. Diagnostics at a service station by connecting a computer with special software to the computer. Malfunctions are detected in the form of errors indicated by an alphanumeric code, after which a more in-depth diagnosis of the malfunction is carried out to make a decision - repair the ignition module or replace it. A similar check is carried out at a specialized service station using an oscilloscope.

Repair

Ignition module VAZ 2107

The design of the ignition module is quite complex: it includes one or more coils, a board, contacts and wires. Of all the above elements, only contact connections can be repaired; in some cases, replacement of parts (transistors, coils) is possible.

The module is dismantled and opened for repair purposes. For this you will need:

1. Socket wrenches with heads 1, 13 and 17.
2. Hexagon 5.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Soldering iron.
5. Flux for aluminum.
6. Stranded wire.
7. Nail polish.

Opening the ignition module

Repair of the ignition module is carried out in the following order:

1. On the removed device, open the case by prying it off with a screwdriver.
2. Remove the silicone film covering the board.
3. All aluminum is removed from the explosive contacts.
4. On the board, new wires are soldered in place of all the dismantled old ones. To do this, the surface of the collector is cleaned of deposits, after which the board is heated to 180°C (a characteristic smell will indicate when the desired temperature has been reached). During the soldering process, the ends of the wires are connected to the module.
5. At the end of the operation, all contacts, the board and the module are covered with nail polish.
6. The device is assembled in the reverse order, installed on the car and the engine is started. In case of normal operation, the ignition module is sealed tightly with sealant, while the wires are tucked inside the cavity so that they are not pinched at the edges by the plate.

If the device does not work, then a breakdown inside the module should be looked for more carefully. The transistor, electronic component may have failed, or there may be a break in the coil. Such a repair makes sense only if its price is significantly lower than the cost of a new part.

VAZ-2110 engines with a two-shaft head with 16 valves are built on the basis of the old one and a half liter VAZ 21083 engine. Changes affected only the cylinder head and air supply system. Twin-shaft 16-valve engines were installed in two types - a 1.5-liter engine (VAZ-2112) and a 1.6-liter engine (VAZ-21124). The ignition system on these engines is different. Today we will look at the ignition module for the injection 16-valve engine 2112 and find out its differences from the 1.6-liter engine 21124.

Design of the ignition module of a 16-valve engine on a VAZ-2110

Despite the similarity in engine design, the ignition system of the 1.5-liter injection 16-valve engine differs from the 1.6 16-valve engine. The 1.6 liter engine uses an electronic contactless ignition system with individual coils on each spark plug. Therefore, there was no need for an ignition module. Such a system is more reliable and cheaper to operate, since if one coil fails, there is no need to replace the entire module.

This is the coil that sits on each spark plug of a 1.6 liter engine.

Features and articles

The 16-valve 1.5-liter VAZ 2112 injection engine used the same non-contact ignition system as the eight-valve engine, but a different ignition module was installed.

Its catalog number is 2112-3705010 , and they sell it for 2000-3000 rubles , depending on the manufacturer. The design of the module remains the same - two ignition coils (for cylinders 1-4 and 2-3) plus switch keys in a single block. The spark is supplied to the cylinders in pairs using the idle spark method. This means that sparking occurs in two cylinders simultaneously - in one on the compression stroke (working spark), in the second on the exhaust stroke (idle spark).

Ignition module for 16-valve 1.5 liter engine.

Version of the module on the 8-valve VAZ-2112

Two 8-valve engines of different volumes were installed on the twelve-wheeler - 1.5 and 1.6 liters. The ignition modules for these engines are different. The one and a half liter engine has a module with article number 2112-3705010, and the 1600 cc engine is equipped with a module 2111-3705010. A module for a 1.5 liter engine costs about 1500-2100, and the second one is 500 rubles cheaper.

Which is better?

SOATE devices manufactured in Stary Oskol have proven themselves to be the most reliable ignition modules.

Module structure

It consists of two ignition coils and two high-voltage switch switches. The coils are designed to create high-voltage pulses.

In essence, it is a simple transformer that has two windings: a primary winding, with an induction voltage of approximately five hundred Volts, and a secondary winding, with an inductive voltage of at least twenty kiloVolts. Everything is placed in one housing with one connector for signal wires and four for high-voltage.

Structure of the ignition coil module of the VAZ 2112

The operation of the ignition module is based on the “idle spark principle”. The module is capable of distributing a spark in pairs: to the first and fourth, second and third cylinders when transmitting pulses from the electronic control unit.

Symptoms of module malfunction

Signs of a faulty ignition module on a VAZ-2110 are always acutely felt:

• hesitant engine starting or failure to start;
• failures during sudden changes in speed;
• high fuel consumption;
• two cylinders do not work, the engine is feverish;
• lack of dynamics;
• a sharp drop in power;
• drop in power and thrust after warming up.

Other faults

We unscrew and look at the spark plugs. Checking the high voltage wires.

These symptoms may not only be caused by the ignition module. To determine the malfunction, it is enough to spend a few minutes diagnosing spark plugs, high-voltage wires and caps. This will eliminate the remaining elements of the ignition system and make sure that it is the ignition module that is faulty.

1. Checking the spark plugs . To do this, unscrew them, put on the caps, place them on the cylinder head and crank the engine with the starter. The spark should be stable on all spark plugs. We replace non-working spark plugs and repeat the test. Under no circumstances should you crank the engine with the starter with the high-voltage wires removed. This will lead to a breakdown in the ignition module cover.
2. Checking the high voltage wires . We remove the caps and hold the wire contact through the insulator at a distance of 10-15 mm from the head . With good wires, the spark should pierce this distance vigorously and confidently. Next we check the wires for resistance. A working wire should have a nominal resistance of 7-10 kOhm. Any deviation from this value indicates the need to replace the entire set of high-voltage wires.
3. We check the caps for breakdown .
   We also look at the block and especially the wires included in it.

If all these elements are in good condition, the ignition module must be checked.

In addition, it is better to check the spark plugs and wires on a warm engine, since a half-dead ignition module can operate cold for some time and fail when heated. You also need to be sure that all sensors are working properly. This can be indicated by an error code or Check Engine light.

Algorithm for checking the ignition module on a VAZ-2110

We begin the test with the block connected to the module.

To check the module, we only need a multimeter and it will take 15-20 . This is quite simple to do, the main thing is to adhere to the algorithm and know the nominal values ​​of the working module:

1. We check the power supply and the presence of pulses supplied from the ECU . We check the power between the central terminal (15) of the wire block connected to the module and the engine ground. When the ignition is on, the voltage should not be less than 12 V. Otherwise, either the battery is dead or the ECU does not work.
2. We check the pulses from the ECU on the wiring block . We install one tester probe on connector 15, the second on the far right, then on the far left. The assistant cranks the engine with the starter, and at this time we record short-term voltage surges with a tester. If there are no impulses from the ECU, it is he who is to blame.
3. We check the resistance on the secondary windings of the coils . We put the tester in resistance measurement mode and measure it at the high-voltage terminals of the module cover. Between pins 1 and 4 and pins 2-3, the resistance should be 5.4 kOhm. Otherwise, the module must be replaced.
4. We check the resistance of the primary windings between contacts 15 and the rightmost, then the leftmost terminals. Nominal - 0.5 Ohm . Deviation is not allowed.
5. Check the module for a short circuit . In ohmmeter mode, install one multimeter probe on the central terminal, the second on the metal body. There shouldn't be any resistance. If the device detects at least some resistance (other than unity or infinity), the module must be replaced.

Video about checking the ignition module

The ignition coil, which is located in the car, essentially converts the low voltage from the battery and generator into high voltage, to supply it individually to each spark plug. Roughly speaking, this is a miniature electrical transformer, the moment of failure of which is almost impossible to predict and repairs and diagnostics have to be carried out on the failed device. Below in our article we will tell you in detail how to check the ignition coil for a VAZ-2112 with your own hands.

The video describes in great detail the algorithm for checking the ignition coil on a VAZ-2112:

How to check the ignition coil of a VAZ 21124 with a multimeter

How to check the ignition coil of a VAZ 2112 16 valves

I’ll say right away: there are no simple tests that allow you to reliably evaluate and check the ignition module. For the reason that the sparking process itself cannot be called simple. First, the accumulation of inductive energy in the coil, then saturation, breakdown of the spark gap, arc formation, combustion, and finally damped oscillations. Each stage has its own characteristics, characteristics and parameters, everything has its essence and weight. Changes in characteristic quantities: accumulation time, breakdown voltage, combustion voltage, arc burning time and distortion of the shape of damped oscillations of dates provide a lot of information about the health of the coil or module. All this is clearly visible on the monitor of a motor tester or oscilloscope, and deviations in individual cylinders are clearly visible in comparison.

But according to the terms of this topic, we, like most car enthusiasts, have nothing except a control unit and a Chinese tester. Well, no need, we’ll try to get out of it, there are no hopeless situations. Actually, there are only 2 methods left that are worth attention: Determination of performance by the arrester and the simple replacement method. The second method is simple substitution; it is the most accessible for car enthusiasts. This is a really simple method, but there is one point. The ignition module is designed in such a way that it easily develops a voltage of 20 kilovolts at its terminals.

Ignition coil. How to check the ignition coil. VAZ 2112, Lada Priora

How to check the ignition coil

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Ignition coil VAZ 2112
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How to check a faulty ignition coil on a car.

In this video we will show you how to check

using a multimeter, your
ignition coil
, Let's also see...

When a control pulse is received from the control unit, a high-voltage discharge through explosive wires rushes to ignite the mixture compressed in the cylinder. Question. Where will the charge go if the wire is suddenly broken? (or it will be completely absent for the module, this is the same thing) The discharge is looking for a way out, and unfortunately, it quickly finds it.

Most often, the module pierces its own insulation with its own energy and begins to sew to ground along the shortest current path. Where the insulation is weakest. The trodden path drains the charge energy onto the ground, as a result, 2 cylinders fail at once. Either 1-4 or 2-3, depending on which wire breakage triggered the insulation breakdown. The insulation may turn out to be good, then a breakdown is possible between the turns of the coil itself, again inside the module. Moreover, a breakdown can cause an interturn short circuit, or it can simply be sewn when the breakdown conditions, even on a serviceable wire, are the most severe.

And these are moments of maximum load on the engine, for example, intense acceleration. Another question is which turns will close: if they are extreme, then the channel will fail. And if they are adjacent, then the coil will lose power, and almost imperceptibly to the eye the inductance is no longer the same.

But this is for the time being. Soon there will be shaking, adjustments, jerks and dips, idle speed fluctuations, and other troubles. These are not all types of module malfunctions, but the couple listed above indicate that its health largely depends on its operating conditions. Therefore, in relation to our method, the question is: What will happen if, without checking the serviceability of the explosive wires, you install a known-good ignition module on your car as a replacement, kindly provided by a neighbor? (if one of the wires is broken, and the module is probably fried for this reason) Nothing may happen: your neighbor’s module may turn out to be more powerful than yours, and for the duration of a short test it will cope with the task, breaking through the gap, and you, making a mistake in diagnosis, buy a new one , which will not live long due to a broken wire. In short, before checking the ignition module by replacing it, be sure to check the condition of the explosive wires.

Ignition coil device

It is known that on 8-valve engines an ignition module was used (module repair, diagnostics) with two channels and coils that are capable of transmitting a spark to a pair of spark plugs at once. However, on a 16-valve engine, the coils became individual for each spark plug.

Prices and articles

The ignition coil from the Russian manufacturer SOATE for the VAZ-2112 has article number 2112-3705010-12 and costs around 1,000 rubles . Analogs from Bosch can cost twice as much, but the quality of these parts is much higher. In any case, the choice is always yours.

Ignition coil from Bosch.

Ignition coil diagram for VAZ 2112 16 valves

To do the job you will need a multimeter.

1. We prepare the car for work (see “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair”).

2. Remove the decorative trim of the engine (see “Decorative trim of the engine - removal and installation”).

3. Press the lock of the wiring harness block.

While holding the latch in this position, disconnect the wire block from the ignition coil of the first cylinder.

4. Turning on the ignition, use a voltmeter to measure the voltage at terminal 3 of the wiring harness block (the numbering of the terminals is marked on the ignition coil).

5. Similarly, we check the supply voltage to the ignition coils of the second, third and fourth cylinders.

The voltage at the terminal must be at least 12 V. If the voltage does not reach the block or it is less than 12 V, then the battery is discharged, there is a malfunction in the power circuit, or the ECU is faulty.

When the voltage measurement is complete, turn off the ignition.

6. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the coil terminals. The electrical resistance between pins 1-3 should be close to zero (about 1 ohm). The resistance between pins 1-2 and 2-3 should be high (tend to infinity).

The faulty coil must be replaced.

10 mm socket wrench

Unscrew the bolt securing the ignition coil to the cylinder head cover.

8. Remove the ignition coil from the spark plug well.

Install the ignition coil in reverse order.

I think that there is no need to talk about the fact that VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 engines come in both 8 and 16 valves. In previous articles we have already looked at the process of replacing a module with an 8-cell one. motor. Today we’ll look at the example of another power unit - 16V.

On the one hand, this is convenient, and if one of them fails, you won’t have to change everything. On the other hand, maintenance is more expensive when replacing all these parts at once.

It’s quite easy to do the replacement yourself and for this you will need:

• socket head 10
• extension
• ratchet handle

The process of checking all ignition coils on a VAZ-2112

The VAZ-2112 engine with 16 valves uses individual Bosch ignition coils and in order to check them, the following procedure must be followed:

1. First of all, we remove each coil from its landing well.
   The order of dismantling does not matter.
2. Then we turn off the power supply and remove them all together as an assembly.
3. First of all, we pay attention to its external condition, the absence of cracks and various breaks.
   If it is damaged, replace it
4. The same applies to the spring located inside the coil, look at its position, it should be exactly in the center.
   Let's look at its correct location

Despite the fact that many people on the Internet talk about the impossibility of checking a coil with their own hands, it is possible to check it only by knowing their initial values, which are measured in ohms .

1. In order not to make false measurements, first of all we check the internal resistance of the wires and the multimeter itself .
   To do this, switch the device to the OM position and connect the probes to each other. What value the multimeter gives is its internal resistance. The value can range from 0.0 to 0.3 ohms. On the multimeter, a value of 00.3 Ohm is normal.
2. First of all, we “ring” the primary winding, which is located on the first and third contacts; when connecting, the polarity does not matter.
3. Depending on the presence of error readings and coil readings, we add up the final indicators.
   For example, if the internal resistance is 0.2 ohms and the coil value is 0.7 ohms, therefore the correct value would be 0.5 ohms. Which is the norm. The value of 00.8 ohms is subtracted from the resistance of the multimeter and we get 00.5, which is the norm.
4. We continue diagnostics with each of the coils.
5. If it happens that there are no indications, then we once again check the quality of the connections and the correctness of the connection. If the readings are still zero, then the primary winding on this coil is faulty.

When the readings on the primary winding on all coils are correct and show their values, we proceed to checking the secondary winding.

1. To do this, set the switch to 2000 kOhm mode.
2. Next, we place the multimeter probe on the coil, observing the polarity, black to pin 2, which is located exactly in the middle of the connector, and the red probe to the spring, inside the rubber plug.
3. Three-digit values ​​will mean the coil is working properly, and infinity values ​​will indicate its failure.
   Such designations indicate the serviceability of the ignition coil.

   The number “1” stands for infinity and indicates a faulty ignition coil.

4. Please note that if you cannot measure the resistance correctly the first time, you can wipe the fixed elements from dirt and deposits, since dirty parts can interfere with the signal output.
5. When replacing old coils with new ones, you should strictly use analogues, taking the faulty part with you to the store in advance.

Lada 2112 › Logbook › Inspection of ignition coils

Due to the jerking that has been going on for two weeks now on
an engine warmed up below 70 C and the lack of effect from using the cleaning nozzle of Hi-Gear 3216 (I’m reaching the tank), I removed the ignition coils to search for a potentially faulty one in their camp using a simplified testing method learned from the Internet. The coils turned out to be of two types - the middle pair was made in Germany by Bosch (art. 0 221 504 461, from 01.2008 the article was replaced by 0 221 504 473), the outer ones were made domestically.

VAZ marking of coils depending on the manufacturer: 2112-3705010-10

— “BOSCH”, Germany;
2112-3705010-11 - NPP "ITELMA", Moscow; 2112-3705010-12 - JSC "SOATE", Stary Oskol; 2112-3705010-13
- PO "SEVER", Novosibirsk.

In the phenolic radiation of the body components of the Chinese multimeter DT9205A, work began vigorously. According to Internet recommendations, the switch of the device was switched to the 200 Ohm position and by closing the contacts against each other, the value of the device’s own resistance was obtained at the level of 0.8. The resistance of the primary winding, checked by closing the 1st and 3rd contacts of the coil, for domestic samples was 1.1-1.2, and for imported ones - 1.2, which marks complete parity of values ​​at the level of 0.4, as the difference between the values ​​​​obtained from the samples and the device’s own resistance. Order. But when checking the resistance of the secondary winding by turning the switch to 2 MOhm and closing the spring with the red probe and the middle contact with the black one, the effect of phenol vapor apparently weakened and all the coils, including the spare one (either working or not), kindly given by the previous owner of the car addition to the machine, the unit displayed on the multimeter screen did not move one iota. Naturally, the mind, altered by the smell of Chinese plastic, immediately decided to conduct a series of research experiments by checking the reaction with all other contacts and in reverse polarity, as well as with all other switch positions. The experiment did not bring any new data. The outlet was a summary of reviews from other users of the method, every second of whom had a similar result of checking the secondary winding and, accordingly, the verification method as a whole should be considered untenable and subjective...

But in search of better conductivity with the probes, I removed the rubber bands from the Bosch coils and wiped the contacts and springs. To wipe, just in case, I used a can of Nano Protech composition that was lying around. Auto electric." It turned out that one of the reels had not only a torn rubber band, but also a spring that was broken in half, so I immediately replaced these parts by removing them from the above-mentioned spare reel. Domestic-made reels did not yield to this operation - either the elastic fits on them much more tightly, or it is not removable at all...

The next morning, having taken a leisurely sip in the method with a multimeter, having put the coils in place, I am glad to note that although the adjustments and rare omissions in engine operation did not disappear, noticeable jerks and dips during movement still disappeared! Apparently half the battle was in the spring. The second half of the battle may lie either in oil drops found in the wells, or in injectors that have failed, or in the same undiagnosed coils. The option with defective spark plugs looks untenable, since the last set was installed two weeks ago, just after jerking appeared and the associated shadow of mistrust fell on the old set.