Replacing the vacuum booster (for use on VAZ 2110 / 2111 / 2112 models)

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How to change the vacuum pump on a Lada Kalina

A new part will cost the owner of Kalina at least 2,000 rubles. A used element is sold on the secondary market at an average price of 1000 rubles per copy in near perfect condition. There are vacuum amplifiers from third-party manufacturers on the market:

• DAAZ - average price 1800 rubles;
• VolgaPromMarket - average price 1,700 rubles.

If the priority is not price, but durability, then you can order higher quality analogues with an increased resource of domestic and imported production. For example, the manufacturer TRIALLI assures that their device remains sealed in the temperature range (-55°C) - (+155ºC). Price: 2500 rubles.

The highest quality analogue is offered by Lucas. Its model “Lucas TRW-10” will fit most modern VAZ cars. The amplifier is assembled from high-strength materials, the main chamber has an increased diameter. The price is appropriate: 13-15 thousand rubles.

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Design and principle of operation of VUT

On different cars (domestic or foreign cars), the brake booster has a similar design. For example, the VAZ 2110 vacuum booster or the VAZ 2114 vacuum booster, as well as similar solutions on many other car models, are combined with the brake master cylinder (MBC) and have the following design:

• frame;
• diaphragm;
• follow-up valve;
• pusher;
• master cylinder piston rod;
• return spring.

In short, the VUT has two chambers separated by a diaphragm. The general principle of operation of a vacuum brake booster is based on the difference in the vacuum and atmospheric chambers. As long as the driver does not press the brake pedal, the pressure in the chambers is the same.

When the brake pedal is pressed, the force is transmitted through the pusher to the follow-up valve, which closes the connection channel between the atmospheric and vacuum chambers. If the valve moves further, the atmospheric chamber is connected to the atmosphere through a channel and the vacuum in the atmospheric chamber drops.

As a result, the pressure difference acts on the diaphragm, overcoming the spring force, and the GTZ piston rod moves. In this case, the additional force on the piston rod of the main brake cylinder is proportional to the force with which the brake pedal is pressed (the harder the driver presses the pedal, the more actively the booster works).

By releasing the pedal, the atmospheric chamber is connected to the vacuum chamber and the pressure in both chambers is equalized, and the diaphragm returns back under the force of the return spring. In this case, the maximum additional force of the VUT is up to 5 times greater than the force applied by the driver on the pedals.

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Examination

Typically, a vacuum booster is checked for serviceability as follows:

• Without starting the engine, you need to press the brake several times (as when pumping);
• After the 5th – 6th press, lock the pedal in the pressed position, start the engine;
• As soon as the engine starts, the pedal moves forward slightly on its own. This is if the vacuum booster is working properly.

If a vacuum is not created, then the first thing you need to do is check the connections and the hose itself for leaks, as well as the check valve of the VAZ 2110 vacuum tank. Often the reason is a malfunction (ruptures, cracks) of rubber parts that require replacement.

In this case, repairs will help, namely replacing faulty parts with serviceable ones.

An internal part, such as the diaphragm, may require repair; over time, a hole may appear in it.

The diaphragm is sold as part of a repair kit. The price of the VUT VAZ 2110 repair kit fluctuates around 250-400 rubles.

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Master brake cylinder

Now let's talk about the master brake cylinder on a VAZ 2110 car. If you do not want to allow the brakes to fail while driving, they should be checked periodically, and if problems arise, take appropriate action immediately.

A common reason for replacing the master brake cylinder of a VAZ 2110 is precisely the fact that the brakes are lost.

Symptoms of a problem

Of course, brakes can completely lose their effectiveness for various reasons, but now we are talking specifically about the master cylinder. If the reason lies therein, then it can be determined by the following signs:

• The master cylinder shows signs of brake fluid leakage;
• The pedal has an idle motion, that is, when it is pressed, no force is created;
• The brake pedal simply won't press.

Replacement

To repair the master brake cylinder of a VAZ 2110, you will need to first disassemble it and then install a new element.

The most difficult process is disassembly . Therefore, let's talk about it in more detail.

1. Carefully disconnect the master cylinder from the pipeline.
2. Disconnect the block, which is equipped with wiring, from the emergency brake fluid indicator. The connection to the “ten” is made by terminals.
3. Cover the pipe and assembly openings with something to prevent brake fluid from leaking. It will pollute the interior space, which is undesirable.
4. Now remove the cylinder along with the reservoir. To do this, simply unscrew the fastening nuts that connect the element to the vacuum booster.
5. After removing the brake fluid level sensor, drain the brake fluid present from the cylinder and the cylinder itself.
6. If there is no serious need, you should not remove the tank. But for complete assembly, the tank is removed and then installed in place in strict order.
7. Before reassembly, each element is washed with purified brake fluid. A good alternative is isopropyl alcohol.
8. Do not forget to dry the parts with a compressor and wipe with a clean, dry cloth.
9. Carefully avoid contact of the main cylinder with fuel or kerosene.
10. Pay special attention to the O-rings. If you wash them with special alcohol, do not keep the rings in this liquid for more than 20 seconds. After processing, immediately dry and wipe the seals.
11. Treat the surface of the piston and mirror to remove all rust.
12. When replacing the master cylinder, new O-rings must be installed, regardless of their current condition.
13. Check the elasticity of the piston springs under load. Refer to the VAZ 2110 repair manual, which indicates the appropriate loads and forces for testing.
14. When free, the length of the spring should be 59.8 millimeters. If the indicator deviates from the norm, be sure to replace the springs.

Leveling up

If you think that after replacing the brake master cylinder you can safely go out on the roads, then you are mistaken. In fact, a complete repair of brake cylinders on a VAZ 2110 includes bleeding.

Proper bleeding will ensure the efficiency of the newly installed master cylinder.

The procedure is not complicated, but requires following the instructions.

• Find someone who will help you in this matter. One will be near the car, and the second will be directly in the cabin.
• Inflate the brake pedal by pressing it several times.
• The assistant presses the pedal, and meanwhile you slightly unscrew the fitting on one of the brake system pipes.
• This should release air, as well as a small amount of brake fluid. Don't be alarmed by leaks, this is completely normal.
• Retighten the fitting using the same wrench as when unscrewing - 10.
• Command your assistant to lower the part.
• The procedure is repeated until air bubbles begin to come out when unscrewing the fitting.
• Each of the four circuits is pumped using similar actions.
• First make sure that the brake fluid in the expansion tank is filled to the required level.

Actually, at this point the repair work related to the master brake cylinder can be considered complete. Experience in operating a car like the VAZ 2110 suggests that you should always store a container of brake fluid in the trunk. All sorts of situations happen on the road, and you need to be prepared for them.

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DIY vacuum booster diagnostics

First of all, it must be said that malfunctions and failure of the vacuum amplifier are not fatal. There is only a characteristic difficulty when braking the car and, in some cases, a disruption in the stable operation of the engine. In any case, before the trip, you can independently conduct a fairly effective and not requiring special skills check of the operation of the vacuum brake booster, for this:

1. When the engine is not running, press the brake pedal several times at full speed;
2. Keep it pressed;
3. We start the engine.

If at the same time the pedal “goes” a little to the floor, it means that everything is in order with your vacuum amplifier, but if not, then we continue further diagnostics of the system.

Main symptoms of VUT malfunctions (table)

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How to remove the vacuum seal on a VAZ 2110

If self-diagnosis suggests a malfunction of the amplifier, then removing the vacuum seal on a VAZ 2110 is a matter of technique. To begin with, you should prepare a metalworking tool. It's good if there is a service kit. In his absence, you need to prepare the keys: three heads: 10 mm, 13 mm and 17 mm, a wrench with an extension, a pair of Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, and pliers.

Then, you can remove the vacuum seal on the VAZ 2110 in the following order:

1. We disconnect the negative terminal from the battery (these are the rules of plumbing);
2. We unscrew the upper screws that secure the soundproofing material to the engine shield;
3. Disconnect the rubber band securing the expansion tank;
4. Without disconnecting the connections of the coolant hoses, we move the tank to the side;
5. Now it becomes possible to move back the sound insulation;
6. Disconnect the terminal from the fluid level sensor on the brake cylinder cover;
7. Holding the return valve, pull out the air supply hose from it;
8. Next, you need to disconnect the vacuum seal and the brake cylinder. To do this, you need to unscrew the two outer fastening nuts;
9. In order not to disconnect the brake pipes, smoothly moves the unscrewed cylinder away from the booster;
10. Let's go to the salon. On the shield, along the perimeter of the brake pedal, we find four studs that are secured with nuts. We unscrew them;
11. Then we disconnect the finger that connects the pedal and the amplifier pusher rod;
12. After this, you can return to the engine compartment and remove the unscrewed unit.

With the amplifier removed, the pedal bracket will remain. It is secured with two nuts. It should be removed and reinstalled on a new vacuum unit for your VAZ 2110. Assembly occurs in the reverse order. After you managed to change the vacuum seal on a VAZ 2110, you do not need to bleed the brakes, because the brake pipes were not disconnected.

For reference! Most of the parts of the front-wheel drive LADA family are interchangeable with each other. VUT was no exception, with one small nuance: the stock in 2108-21099 is slightly longer than that of the “ten”. Therefore, to answer the question: will the vacuum cleaner from the VAZ 2109 fit the VAZ 2110? You can answer in the affirmative - yes. But the brake pedal will be located a little higher.

Order of Operations

Removing the VAZ 2110 vacuum booster and installing a new device is similar to the work on 2111 and 2112. Special conditions are not required to perform repairs. The machine is installed on a flat surface, and the following operations are performed sequentially:

The soundproofing fasteners are unscrewed. Then you need to unfasten the expansion barrel belt, lift it, move it to the side, put it aside and fix it. The left part of the sound insulation must be removed and also put aside.

After the sound insulation is removed, the block with wires is disconnected from the sensor indicating the fluid level in the brake system.

Now you can remove the hose from the vacuum check valve and unscrew the two fasteners of the cylinder to the amplifier.

• The main cylinder turns to the side; here you need to keep an eye on the hoses; if they break, you will have to change them too.
• Now you need to go into the car interior. From here you can unscrew the four fasteners that hold the vacuum seal bracket to the body. They are located under the dashboard.

  The pin lock plate is now removed. You need to pry it off with a screwdriver. Then the finger is pushed out, it is made of metal, it is easy to pull it out by pressing from below or from above. Then the booster pusher is disconnected from the pedal.

  Now you need to remove the amplifier from the bracket, having first unscrewed the two fasteners from the bracket.

  This completes the procedure for removing a failed vacuum booster. The new unit is installed in the reverse order. The order must be strictly followed. Mistakes are not acceptable. Installation operations are carried out before the stage of reinstallation of the soundproofing material. Here you need to stop and test the amplifier in operation. If the test results are positive, you can complete the work completely. Do not forget about the smooth pedal stroke; it should vary between 3 and 5 centimeters.

How to repair or replace parts

Hisses when braking (with video example)

In the following video you can hear this characteristic sound:

By the way, according to the instructions, the standard “vacuum unit” of the VAZ-2110 cannot be repaired, only replaced, but we “do it ourselves.” And judging by the number of different instructions for self-repairing cars posted on the Internet, it can be argued that any domestic car enthusiast with more than five years of experience can safely be awarded the title of design engineer in absentia. Therefore, we will consider the repair procedure, especially since the difference in cost between the repair kit and the vacuum booster itself is disproportionately high.

In any case, first we will have to dismantle the VUT; for this we will need a minimum of available tools.

Tools

• Open-end and socket wrenches in sizes “10”, “13”, “17”;
• Powerful flat screwdriver;
• Repair kit or VUT assembled;
• Sealant and a little desire to do it yourself.

Dismantling

At this stage, we have a choice: either do everything as the manufacturer’s instructions say (disconnect the main brake cylinder from the VUT, unscrewing all the brake pipes from it, and then bleed it) or a little simpler and with little cost (simply moving it away to the side).

In any case, the choice is yours, but I will take the easy way:

Disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal:

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