Slipping in the snow - ways to get out of a snowdrift in a car with manual and automatic transmission

What to do if the clutch slips on a VAZ 2107

Clutch slipping in a passenger car is a common malfunction that leads not only to inconvenience in driving the car, but also to unplanned financial costs.
Failure occurs due to improper operation of the transmission system and untimely maintenance. A detailed review will help the car owner figure out why the VAZ 2107 clutch is slipping, and will introduce you to ways to fix the problem yourself, without resorting to the help of a service station.

We fix problems

The following factors indicate that the VAZ 2107 clutch is starting to slip:

1. unpleasant odor;
2. the car accelerates hard;
3. When climbing a mountain the engine lacks power.

In order to understand whether the VAZ 2107 clutch is slipping or not, you need to:

• tighten the handbrake;
• turn on the speed and begin to gently squeeze the gas, while at the same time releasing the clutch pedal;
• if the engine stalls, you can be sure that the clutch system is working properly;
• If the engine stalls and the car is moving, then we can say with confidence that the clutch of your car is slipping.

Replacing the disk
What to do in this case? First you need to check the VAZ 2107 clutches for ease of movement. Having identified problems, try to correct them by adjusting them. It is likely that the system is slipping due to worn-out clutches. In this case, you need to find out the degree of wear. If the wear is insignificant, then in order to eliminate slipping, it is enough to adjust the clutch travel. If the wear is significant, then it is necessary to replace the driven disk and linings. This is necessary if the distance between the working parts and the rivets is more than 0.2 millimeters.

Often, for various reasons, the linings become oily, mainly due to an increased level of lubricant in the gearbox or due to the fact that the flywheel drain holes are clogged. The way out of this situation is very simple: just wash the pads with a liquid like kerosene. Then all surfaces must be wiped and cleaned with sandpaper.

Clutch slipping can be caused by swollen rubber parts of the hydraulic drive. In order to prove or disprove this, you need to take the following steps:

1. remove the cylinders, including the main one;
2. clean the system with alcohol;
3. replace swollen parts with new ones;
4. thoroughly clean the expansion holes;
5. add brake fluid;
6. bleed the brakes.

In cars older than ten years, slipping often occurs due to hardening of the pressure springs, which ultimately weakens the pressure on the driven disk, which leads to difficulties with slipping. In order to determine the condition of the springs, you need to completely remove the clutch disc. If necessary, replace the springs or even the entire clutch.

Signs of a slipping clutch

The driver can detect slippage as follows:

1. Difficult gear shifting, a kind of crunching sound.
2. The car moves poorly and begins to slip.
3. When driving fast in lower gears it jerks (working jerks).
4. Loss of power when climbing.
5. Vibration or noise occurs.
6. Pedal device failure.

Why is this happening?

To understand why the clutch slips on a VAZ 2107, you need to understand its structure and operating principle.

The entire mechanism consists of the following elements:

• crankcase;
• driven disk of the basket;
• riveted friction linings;
• diaphragm spring;
• pressure plate;
• hydraulic clutch release.

The parts are placed in a steel basket; The driven disk contains splines and damper springs that ensure smooth gear shifting.

The operating principle is based on friction between the working parts. The clutch connects the power unit and the transmission and transmits torque from the engine flywheel to the intermediate shaft of the vehicle's gearbox. When you press the pedal, the disc moves away, the connection between the motor and the gearbox is disconnected, and the rotation of the gearbox shaft stops. When the pedal is released, the flywheel and gearbox shaft are connected, and rotation is transmitted to the gearbox.

The coupling device slips for the following reasons:

1. Oil leakage, liquid getting on the surface of the basket parts.
2. Overheating of the drive disk. When the temperature is exceeded during use, the discs expand. This phenomenon is not noticeable on the go. It is determined during inspection of the part. Soot deposits and fumes are visible on the surface.
3. Wear or delamination of friction linings. The elements not only wear out, but can also get burned. An unpleasant odor appears in the car interior.
4. Damaged or worn compression spring. If there are defects, the spring is not able to create the required pressure on the disk.
5. No gaps in the shutdown hydraulic drive.
6. Reduced freewheel parameter.

Experts combine the reasons why this happens into 2 groups:

1. The hitch does not fully engage (drive). Due to the increased distance of the pedal to the platform.
2. The clutch does not fully engage (slips). The discs slip relative to each other, and the pedal stroke decreases.

How to check whether the clutch is slipping or not

To check the system yourself without special technical devices, perform the following steps:

1. Turn on the engine and set it to neutral.
2. Release the parking brake.
3. Press the gas lever.
4. Engage first gear.
5. Squeeze the pedal.
6. Squeezing is done several times.

When the assembly is operating correctly, the engine stalls. If the engine does not turn off, or there are extraneous sounds (clicks, creaks, knocks) and a burning smell, the clutch is considered faulty. Particular attention is paid to pedal travel. The lever should lower smoothly, without jerking or interruption.

What to do when the clutch slips

Depending on the cause of slipping, the progress of repair and restoration work is determined.

If the fault lies in the pressure spring, it must be replaced with a new one. When the friction linings are worn, the driven disk is replaced. When repairing or replacing some linings, be sure to inspect the gaskets. If they are damaged or have burnt spots, they are also replaced. If oily liquid gets on parts of the driven disk, it is necessary to treat the surface with kerosene or white spirit and clean it with fine-caliber sandpaper.

Grease may get on the surface of the flywheel and pressure plate if the fluid level in the gearbox housing increases excessively or if there is a leak in the rear crankshaft bearing. To solve the problem, carry out visual diagnostics and eliminate the cause of the leak, then clean the parts.

The car repair instructions will tell you what to do if there are no gaps in the hydraulic drive or insufficient free play of the lever.

The free stroke according to the specifications is 30-35 mm, the full stroke is 140 mm. Any deviation of the parameter is associated with a malfunction of the transmission system and requires adjustment work to change the pedal stroke and the position of the disk relative to the flywheel.

Causes of wear of the clutch mechanism

As car manufacturers assure, the average service life of clutch discs ranges from 75 to 80 thousand kilometers. A quiet driving mode and infrequent gearbox shifting help to extend the service life of the analyzed elements. Unfortunately, not all car owners adhere to such recommendations, and this, in turn, leads to rapid wear of the clutch mechanism. As a result, the worn mechanism slips while moving and at speed.

A clutch disc malfunction is manifested by incomplete engagement or periodic slipping.

In the first case, the pedal travel is too large. That is, if the pedal fails when the gearbox is turned on, and at the moment of shifting there is a kind of crunching sound, these are clear signs that the clutch discs are not fully engaged.

When slipping occurs, on the contrary, there is insufficient pedal travel, which can be completely released and free.

In any case, the operation of the clutch disc system should be adjusted as quickly as possible.

The design of the VAZ 2107 clutch mechanism

The seven uses a wet clutch mechanism. It consists of:

• directly the pedal, brought into the salon;
• master cylinder;
• pressure pipes;
• working cylinder;
• clutch fork;
• release bearing;
• clutch basket and disc.

Some car enthusiasts modify the mechanism by discarding the hydraulics and installing a dry drive. The process is justified by the greater accuracy of the modification and the absence of the need for frequent maintenance.

How to get to the nearest service station or home if the clutch pedal has failed?

The task, although not easy, is still quite realistic. The main thing here is to get going and not take your foot off the gas, maintaining the speed in first gear.

You need to proceed as follows

We warm up the engine, turn on the emergency lights, then turn on first gear, and turn the key in the ignition. When the engine starts to “catch”, give the gas and start moving. With the right approach, the car will not stall, and you will be able to move away and slowly get to your destination. Don't try to change gear without a clutch - it is certainly possible, there is a technique, but without the proper skill you will most likely stall or damage your transmission.

Life is full of surprises. And especially for motorists. Not only do you need to be constantly attentive on the road, but you also need to be able to notice and fix problems in your car in a timely manner. Especially when there are no populated areas nearby and the nearest service station is far away, or when you are stuck in a traffic jam and the clutch pedal is stuck or the brakes have disappeared.

This problem is a constant topic of discussion on many forums for car owners of almost all brands. Of course, a clutch can fail for many reasons. Let's look at the most common cases of problems with the clutch pedal of the VAZ 2106 and VAZ 2107.

How does the clutch drive work?

The principle of operation of the mechanism is as follows.

1. The driver presses the pedal.
2. The piston of the master cylinder pumps pressure into the system, excess fluid goes into the expansion tank.
3. The contents of the system move along the lines and enter the working cylinder.
4. The piston of the working part pushes the fork and opens the bearing.
5. The clutch disc moves away from the basket and the engine is disconnected from the gearbox.

Device and main problems

Contents
Hide

Design and main problems Hydraulic drive malfunctions

Why it stalls - reasons and their elimination

Clutch “leads” - signs, causes and how to fix

Complete disassembly with removal of the gearbox Video about disassembling the clutch using the example of a VAZ 2106, suitable for the “Seven”, a small difference only in the interior

Unit tuning, which spare parts are best to choose

In short, a clutch is a transmission link between the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. In this case, pressing the pedal disconnects these 2 nodes: the engine continues to run, and the driver can change gears.

Clutch device VAZ-2107

VAZ 2107 has a dry single-plate clutch. The master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch drive is located under the pedal, when pressed, the pusher moves and presses on the cylinder piston, generating pressure. The brake fluid that fills the hydraulic drive is squeezed out and goes into the working cylinder. The piston of this cylinder is combined with the clutch fork by an adjusting rod.

When you press the pedal, it moves the fork, moves the release bearing and separates the discs. As a result, the torque from the crankshaft flywheel is no longer transmitted to the gearbox and it becomes possible to change gear. If the clutch unit malfunctions, when you press the pedal, the gearbox shaft continues to rotate and it becomes impossible to change gears. If the clutch is adjusted incorrectly, worn out, or oiled, the discs may begin to slip, which will result in their overheating. It becomes impossible to continue using the machine. Therefore, at the first sign of a malfunction, it is worth starting to repair and adjust it.

Hydraulic drive malfunctions

They consist of leakage of brake fluid due to wear of the cuffs of the main and working cylinders; the flexible hose may burst; Sometimes when the pedal is pressed, the car starts to move on its own - this is wear on the master cylinder.

Clutch basket

When to adjust the clutch drive

1. Gear shift violation - positions are engaged with knocking, crackling or extraneous sounds.
2. The clutch switch response threshold has been violated. A dip of 25 to 35 mm is considered optimal.
3. Increased fuel consumption. If the mechanism is faulty, excess gasoline consumption can be up to 20% of the reference value.
4. Knocking out positions. During acceleration of the vehicle, the gears “fly out”.
5. Dissonance when revving the engine. When you press the gas pedal, the internal combustion engine spins up, and the car lags behind.
6. Clutch lever failures, this also includes an increase or absence of operating play in the system.
7. Early or late operation of the mechanism when the pedal is pressed.

Causes of slippage

Most often, VAZ-2107 owners complain that their faithful iron horse is slipping. Let's look at the causes of the analyzed breakdown:

1. The main reason is the penetration of oil substances into the clutch system. Eliminating this problem is quite simple - using a rag soaked in gasoline or white spirit to wipe all parts on the surface of which oil is found. Next, you will need to thoroughly clean the friction attachments using sandpaper, which will eliminate slipping.
2. Long-term use of friction linings that have not been replaced in a timely manner can also lead to clutch slipping. Worn linings reduce the free play of the pedal, which causes slippage. Of course, they cannot be repaired, so they must be replaced.
3. Failed pressure springs are another cause of slippage. An insufficiently elastic element is not able to create the required pressure on the clutch disc, so they need to be replaced with new and high-quality ones.
4. Insufficient pedal travel can cause the clutch to slip. The normal range can vary from 25 to 35 mm. A regular ruler will help you determine whether free play is normal. Using a measuring device, you need to measure the distance from the pedal to the central part of the platform.

If there are no gaps in the clutch system activation drive, this will also lead to pedal slipping.

Diagnosis of clutch faults VAZ 2107

There are a number of breakdowns that indicate that the car requires urgent repairs.

Clutch slipping

This occurs during sudden acceleration. The engine steadily picks up speed, but the car is “late” in accelerating. The process may also be accompanied by jerking, jerking and extraneous noise.

The situation greatly wears out the friction disc and negatively affects fuel consumption.

Clutch leads

This is caused by improper adjustment or airing of the system. The friction linings do not move completely away from the basket and gears are difficult to engage.

Jerks when starting and changing gears

It requires pumping and adjustment of the mechanism, when the car jerks when you put it in gear. The disc may slip at the start or rapid acceleration due to its wear.

Why does the clutch slip only under certain conditions?

The reasons why the clutch slips at high speeds, when accelerating or after the car has been idle, are different. The most common of them:

Characteristic signs of clutch wear

1. incorrect installation or configuration;
2. ambient temperature;
3. aggressive driving style;
4. heavy load (for example, trailer);
5. natural wear and tear of parts.

If disc slipping occurs only in certain conditions, for example, when it’s cold, the clutch slips in 3rd and 4th gear, or if you change the clutch and it slips, then identifying a specific malfunction should consider the options that will be discussed below. All the main symptoms and causes of transmission slipping are presented in the table.

If there is clutch slipping caused by improper adjustment or lack of oil (for wet-type systems), it is important to immediately correct this problem. Otherwise, the disks will constantly overheat, wear out quickly and repairs will be much more expensive!

Do-it-yourself clutch adjustment on a VAZ 2107

This procedure is performed similarly for all classic VAZ 2101-07 and 21214 models. The essence of the procedure is to adjust the clutch or play of the clutch working cylinder rod if it takes at the very end or with minimal pressure.
To perform repairs you will need the following set of tools:

• standard open-end wrenches;
• screwdriver or pliers;
• ruler;
• ticks.

Basically, the calibration process looks like this.

1. The car is driven onto a viewing hole or lift.
2. The battery terminals are disconnected, and the car is blocked from accidentally rolling away (relevant for a pit or overpass).
3. The clutch pedal stop is located under the steering column. This element is responsible for setting the working gap between the rod pusher and the pedal. A backlash of 1-2 millimeters is considered normal; if the condition is met, no calibration is needed.
4. Next, you need to check the backlash of the working cylinder. To do this, unscrew the pusher rod from the clutch fork and check the existing gap.

Tools and materials

To perform the operation you will need:

• set of wrenches;
• hydraulic fluid;
• flat screwdriver;
• container for draining waste;
• rags;
• ruler or tape measure.

Preparatory work

Before starting the procedure you should:

1. Drive the car onto a flat surface, inspection hole or lift.
2. Put the car on the handbrake.
3. Clean the RB cover and all lines from dirt, external oxidation and bitumen stains.
4. Prepare all tools for easy access to them.

Setting up the clutch of an injection VAZ 2107

Fundamentally, the repair procedure differs from the carburetor by the presence of an additional dirt-proof sheet. The structure is dismantled in this way.

• Using a socket head, 12 shield mounting bolts (A, B, C) are removed.

• Next, you need to unscrew the rear screws using a Phillips screwdriver or wrench No. 8.

• Reverse installation is carried out in mirror order.
• Otherwise, the sequence of actions does not differ from the standard procedure.

Adjusting the clutch of a carburetor VAZ 2107

Step-by-step instructions for adjusting a carburetor model look like this.

1. The car is jacked up or driven into an inspection hole.
2. The nominal free play position of the clutch pedal is set.
3. Adjusting the release bearing play.
4. Reverse fixation of the structure.
5. Checking completed work.

Adjusting the clutch pedal free play

To set the required clutch pedal travel, the following procedure is performed.

• Inside the car, you need to find the clutch piston pusher (located under the corresponding pedal).

• Check the working gap on the element itself; in normal condition, the gap is 0.5-2 mm. The most convenient way is to put a ruler and use it to measure the pedal stroke before the mechanism operates. If the thresholds are not met, calibration is required.
• Use a size 10 wrench to loosen the piston rod lock nut.

• Next, using the horn, turn the travel limiter nut by 13 (clockwise, decrease, counterclockwise, increase).
• When it reaches the required range, the structure is tightened in the reverse order.

Just straight ahead!

On any slippery surface that promotes slipping, the steering wheel should be rotated smoothly and, if possible, at minimal angles. It is much easier to get out of snow, sand, and mud with straight wheels than with inverted ones, which increase rolling resistance. And once the car has moved more or less confidently, you can turn the steering wheel, but without sudden movements and large angles, choosing, if possible, the appropriate trajectory. In the snow, sometimes before setting off, it is useful to turn the wheels left and right on the spot a couple of times, as if creating a launching pad for them. But you still need to start in a straight line.

Sometimes, in order to go forward, it is enough to first step back a little.

Sometimes, in order to go forward, it is enough to first step back a little.

How to finally adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2107

After all manipulations, it is necessary to check the functionality of the system. To do this, you need to start the engine and let it warm up. Then, with the engine running, you need to depress the clutch and, without accelerating, engage the rear rocker position. In this case, the presence of extraneous sounds and rattles is not allowed. The position is turned on easily - without additional effort.

Next, you can start moving at first speed and then increase the position to maximum (5). When driving, the presence of extraneous sounds or grinding noises is strictly unacceptable; the pedal is pressed evenly, without dips or jerks.

The last stage is acceleration at each gearbox speed, while the set of engine speeds fully corresponds to the acceleration of the car. If there is dissonance, the clutch disc slips and recalibration is required.

How the problem manifests itself

Most often, the cause of clutch slipping is normal mechanical wear of the assembly elements. This allows you to diagnose an impending problem even before serious consequences appear. This is done by simply observing changes in the behavior of the machine.

If you notice one of the following signs on your Niva, passenger car or scooter, be sure to diagnose the clutch or contact a service center.

• Extraneous sounds occur during system operation. They appear in the form of knocking noises when the pedal is depressed or released;
• If the noise disappears when the clutch pedal is depressed, the problem is most likely in the release bearing;
• There are signs of vibration on the pedal;
• In this case, the pedal may sink too much or be pressed too hard;
• A characteristic burning smell emanates from the clutch. The clutch usually burns if the driver operates it incorrectly.

The manufacturer provides each vehicle with instructions that indicate all recommendations for routine maintenance and replacement of clutch assembly elements. Most often, the driven disk needs to be replaced.

Before you try to adjust the system yourself, be sure to familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of the clutch. In our previous article we discussed this issue.

Why and how to bleed the clutch on a VAZ 2107 in your garage

The reason for bleeding the clutch is air in the hydraulic system. Air bubbles tend to shrink, which reduces the performance of the device. It’s easy to bleed the clutch in a VAZ 2107 at home. To do this, it is enough to have a set of primitive tools and a little patience.

Motorists prefer to do their own repairs because the procedure is expensive, and performing the entire process on your own is not difficult.

Preparing to bleed the clutch system

To bleed the line and do it correctly, preparation must be done.

1. Drive the car onto a viewing hole, overpass or lift, where you secure it.
2. Clean the expansion tank cap and fitting from dirt. Garbage entering the system is unacceptable.

Stages of the clutch bleeding process

The procedure is performed in a certain sequence.

• The protective cap is removed from the fitting and the hose is put on it.
• The second end of the tube is lowered into a bottle with TJ previously poured into it.

• Brake fluid is also poured into the expansion tank to the maximum mark.

• Next, the assistant gets into the car and presses the pedal several times; during the last push, you should press the lever to the floor and hold it.

• After this, use wrench No. 8 to unscrew the fitting on the working cylinder and the waste with air bubbles is squeezed out into the bottle. After the pressure has dropped (the pedal has failed), the valve must be closed.

• The procedure is repeated until the air is completely removed from the system.

Complete disassembly with gearbox removal

The work must be done on a lift or in a pit. First of all, remove the battery

We continue disassembly by removing the rod from the gear shift lever. Then you will have to use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the cover that covers the hole in the car body. This completes the manipulations inside the car dealership. What needs to be done next:

1. Remove the exhaust pipe (exhaust system) and resonators;
2. Then remove the starter from the flywheel housing and move it to the side;
3. Disconnect the cardan from the rear axle and gearbox.

To be able to remove the box, remove the cross member of the rear engine mount and the speedometer drive cable. You also need to disconnect the hydraulic drive cylinder from the gearbox and move it to the side.

Next, you will need to remove the bolts that hold the clutch housing cover in place (key 10) and proceed to dismantling the box, and since it weighs a lot, it is worth putting a good support under it.

Read this, it might come in handy: Why do brakes squeak?

After this, use a socket wrench to unscrew the bolts from the flywheel housing. Now, in order to remove the box, you will have to carefully move it back, slowly removing the primary shaft from the hub of the clutch driven disc. This must be done carefully so as not to drop the box and injure yourself. That's it, the box is removed.

Video about disassembling the clutch using the example of a VAZ 2106, suitable for the “Seven”, a small difference only in the interior

Clutch check

To check the clutch bleeding, just follow a simple sequence.

1. Raise the handbrake all the way.
2. Depress the clutch and start the engine.
3. Try to change gears, but no extraneous sounds or blockages should appear.
4. Engage a random gear and smoothly release the pedal.
5. Approximately halfway through the stroke, the engine should begin to twitch and stall. This indicates proper operation of the coupling device.

Possible consequences

A slipping clutch is a fairly common occurrence. This is especially true for domestic cars, motorcycles and cars with high mileage.

Practice and experience clearly show that slipping is usually associated with wear and damage to elements. This can happen on any car or other vehicle. Judging by the requests of fans of self-repair, most often the problem of a slipping clutch is solved on the following vehicles:

• VAZ 2107;
• VAZ 2114;
• IZ Planet;
• UAZ Bukhanka;
• Jupiter;
• KAMAZ;
• Minsk;
• VAZ 2110;
• Renault Logan;
• Kia Rio;
• Lada Priora;
• GAZelle, etc.

Despite the obvious cause of such problems, many car owners stubbornly continue to ignore all recommendations for maintenance and timely repair of the unit.

If you feel characteristic signs of problems, you should take prompt action.

When buying a used car or getting behind the wheel for the first time, some people think that they are simply driving the vehicle incorrectly, are not yet fluent in manual shifting techniques and are making some mistakes. In reality, it may turn out that the clutch is failing.

It is important to pay attention to the characteristic signs. Namely:

• the car loses dynamics;
• cravings drop;
• the car is difficult to climb;
• speed is gained slowly;
• the pedal vibrates;
• there is a smell of burning in the cabin;
• the pedal is too tight;
• the pedal fails;
• gear shifts with a crunch;
• Extraneous uncharacteristic sounds appear when switching.

If you do not pay attention to this in time, the engine flywheel is highly likely to be damaged, not only the coupling unit, but also the gearbox will suffer. The problem mainly affects the gearbox input shaft.

Important Tips and Recommendations

Experienced drivers and mechanics recommend following simple rules to extend the life of the device.

1. Do not overpress the pedal. This causes the disc to heat up and can cause it to wear out quickly.
2. Use only high-quality brake fluid.
3. Check the functionality of the device in a timely manner.
4. If extraneous sounds or plugging occur, it is necessary to diagnose the mechanism.

Specialization : Graduated from the State Automobile University, worked for 20 years at GAZ-56, now I drive a Zhiguli.

Source

Independent and quick diagnostics

If this is just the beginning of the emergence and development of a problem associated with clutch slipping, inexperienced drivers may not notice it.

There is a fairly simple diagnostic method that is almost error-free. You can do it yourself after replacing the clutch, when adjustments have been made, or simply when you suspect that the system is not working correctly.

• place the machine on a level surface;
• start the engine;
• turn on the handbrake;
• go into first gear;
• start trying to move away;
• gradually press on the gas;
• release the clutch at the same time;
• watch the result.

If the engine stalls during such manipulations, this is good. That is, the clutch does not slip. But when the engine does not stall, the car begins to move, the unit actually slips.

Appropriate measures should be taken immediately to correct the problem.

Insufficient pedal free play

The clutch often slips (the VAZ-2107 often suffers from this) also because the pedal has too little free play.

There are other reasons why the clutch of VAZs of any model, and the “Seven” in particular, slips.

• Detachment of the friction lining. The lining itself may not have visible damage or burnt areas. But as a result of delamination, it ceases to take the load over its entire surface, which leads to slipping.
• Overheating of the release disc. As a result of the temperature exceeding the maximum possible heat-absorbing characteristics of the clutch disc, it permanently expands, which causes a slipping effect. Of course, this defect cannot be determined on the fly. But it can be determined quite easily by the characteristic residue of burning and scale on the disk itself.

This article lists the main reasons why the clutch slips on domestic classics and on many other models of cars and trucks. It is important to remember that, whatever the cause of clutch slipping, it must be eliminated at the first appearance of symptoms of the defect. It is best to entrust such work to highly qualified specialists.

In addition, when doing repair work yourself, there is a fairly high risk of violating the correct settings and adjustments, which will turn replacing parts into a Sisyphean task. Very soon the clutch will again begin to slip, make grinding and crackling noises, and the smell of overheated discs and linings will be clearly felt in the car's interior.

Installing the clutch master cylinder repair kit

It is not difficult to determine when it is necessary to repair the master cylinder; the main signs of its malfunction are:

• Insufficient clutch release (clutch drives)
• Any type of leakage, whether from under the nuts securing the hose and tubes, or from the end from under the rubber seals
• Master cylinder stuck in pressed position

In my situation, the main leak was due to a worn out sealing ring, in other words, fluid flowed down the clutch pedal into the passenger compartment.

I started the repair by dismantling the reservoir hose, unscrewed the clamp on the main cylinder and quickly removed it from the main cylinder, turned it up and pinched it behind the reservoir cap so that the liquid did not flow out of the reservoir. Next, I unscrewed the tube that goes to the working cylinder, I did this with a special key, it’s a pity there is no photo, but you can buy one without any problems at any auto store. All that remains is to unscrew the main one itself, it is secured with two 13 nuts and remove it from under the hood.

Main removed

The boot was removed and it was noticeable that fluid was flowing from here.

Having picked up the boot with a screwdriver, I saw exactly where the liquid was flowing from; the assumption was absolutely correct.

Next, you need to wipe the cylinder, remove dirt and rust.

After cleaning the dirt, you can begin disassembling. To do this you will need an awl or similar object.

Corkscrew ring

Corkscrew ring

We take out the ring

Next, you need to carefully remove the insides, keeping in mind that the piston is under the action of a spring.

This is what it looks like

Next, you need to clean the master cylinder body, you cannot scrape the parts with a screwdriver, sandpaper, etc., this is just in case, I use a rag with brake fluid. In repair manuals, I often came across such expressions that if rips, scratches, etc. appeared on the parts, then it is unusable. But despite all this, practice shows that despite all the risks, provided that a high-quality repair kit is installed, the master cylinder works without problems. I used this kit:

Repair kit for clutch master cylinder VAZ

We remove the old rings, clean all the grooves and holes. There should be no dust or debris there.

The ring is removed, clean the piston, install a new one

Pure "Innards"

And by the way, here is the reason for the clutch cylinder leaking:

The ring is not worn evenly

After cleaning and replacing the rings, you can assemble the cylinder, below is a photo of what should be there and how:

Here is a photo not cleaned, I added it here to show the correct assembly

Having assembled the cylinder, install the corkscrew ring

Bleeding the clutch on a VAZ 2106

After the repair has been made, it is necessary to bleed the clutch. In all repair manuals you can find standard instructions for bleeding the clutch, but it may not always help.

1. The first bleeding option is standard; it consists of filling the tank with liquid, unscrewing the bleeding fitting, putting a hose on the fitting, and lowering the other end into a container with clean liquid. Then, by pressing the pedal, we monitor when the air stops being released, and also do not forget to control the level in the tank.
2. The second method is to use an assistant - one person presses the pedal 4-6 times and keeps it pressed to the floor. The second unscrews the bleeder fitting; air bubbles should come out of the fitting; as soon as they stop coming out, you need to screw the fitting in and then release the pedal. And so on until normal operation of the pedal is restored and air bubbles stop coming out.
3. There is also the simplest method of pumping, but which does not always work - to implement it you just need to pour liquid into the reservoir and unscrew the fitting on the working cylinder. The liquid will flow by gravity through the entire system and when it begins to flow steadily out of the fitting, it can be closed and the pumping can be considered complete.

Replacing the master and slave cylinders

The master cylinder is replaced in the following sequence:

1. Liquid is drained from the reservoir. This can be done using an ordinary syringe, or by removing the hose from the master cylinder fitting.
2. The pipe fitting leading to the clutch slave cylinder is unscrewed.
3. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts on which the main cylinder is attached.

Replacing the working cylinder:

1. The spring is removed from the working cylinder.
2. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the tube connecting the master and slave cylinders.
3. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the working cylinder and remove them together with the plate.

After replacement, the working cylinder must be bled.