The fastest way to replace a new type heater radiator on VAZ-2110, VAZ-2111, VAZ-2112 cars

Problems with a poorly functioning heater occur not only on domestic “classics”, but also on more modern cars. VAZ-2110 is no exception. In practice, it turns out that in the summer, if you turn on the stove, it will be very hot, but in the winter, on the contrary, there is minimal use from it. However, it is difficult to say why this happens, so it is necessary to consider several relevant reasons and try to eliminate them. Let's figure out why the VAZ-2110 stove does not heat well and how to deal with it.

A little about the design

The VAZ-2110 model, which is as close as possible to European cars, has many flaws, especially with regard to the heater. In our case, it is separate and consists of several elements. The first one is the heater, it is located under the hood. Its task is to prepare the air that will be supplied to the cabin. This refers to speed and temperature. The second element is located in the cabin, and this is the air distributor. If your VAZ-2110 stove (16 valves) does not heat well, then the first thing you need to do is understand which of the two units is not working correctly. Everything is quite simple here. Now you will understand why exactly.

If you do not have the ability to switch fan speeds, and it is in the heater, then it is logical to conclude that it is yours that is faulty. Of course, it could be an electronic issue, but this is a very rare case. By the way, it is very important to understand the principle of operation of the stove. It consists of setting the temperature, which, using a special sensor, is compared with the one currently in the cabin. If the difference is significant, more than 2-3 degrees Celsius, then the gear motor controls the dampers, opening or closing them. If the temperature difference is more than 5 degrees, then the second fan speed is turned on, if less, then the first. Warm or cold air enters through the channels. So it goes to the side front windows, the windshield, to the feet and, directly, to the passengers. A very common reason is when the VAZ-21103 stove does not heat your feet well, but the windows blow normally. The reason may be clogged air ducts. We'll figure out how to clean them a little later.

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

One of the main problems of the VAZ-2110 - 2112 heater is leakage and poor-quality assembly, poor quality of air duct elements.

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

To eliminate this drawback, unfortunately, you will have to spend more than one hour, since it is impossible to get to the air ducts without dismantling the front panel.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

How to remake the stove on a VAZ-2110?

If you are fundamentally dissatisfied with the operation of the heater on your car, then you can modify it to suit your needs without any problems. If you are faced with the problem of insufficient airflow or fogging of windows in rainy weather, then you need to take action. Firstly, you should make sure that the heater is in good working order and is working normally; if not, then it needs to be repaired and only then proceed with active actions. The main reason why little air flows to the side windows is that most of the flow is lost in the gap. Accordingly, you need to disassemble the entire panel into parts and use foam to prevent air leakage. This is quite easy to do. Sometimes it makes sense to lay corrugation, but in practice this does not always work. At best, you can only warm the feet of the front passengers there.

Please also note that the airflow for the rear passengers’ feet also needs to be improved. But before you remake the stove on the VAZ-2110, you need to take care of the driver’s seat. Here you will be dealing with the so-called “herringbone”. It is in this case that it is advisable to use corrugation. Firstly, it will give the desired effect, and secondly, it takes up much less space of that very “Christmas tree”. It is desirable that the tube be no more than 40 millimeters in diameter, and if it is long, smooth inside. Otherwise, as air passes through it, it may whistle, which is not very pleasant.

Differences in design

The VAZ 2110 was equipped with stoves of the so-called new or old model. Both systems, including those on the VAZ, which has an injector instead of a carburetor, are not particularly different in design.

So, the immediate differences:

The main difference between the new stove and the old one is in the design of the heater radiator. Therefore, if you are repairing a heating system and decide to install a new model instead of an old radiator, then take into account some nuances;
In addition, the SAUO controller is also not exactly like that. 4 or 5 position controllers manufactured before the fall of 2003 have already been discontinued and are not suitable for new heater models;
The micro-gearboxes are also different, starting from release in September 2003. They differ in resistors (shaft position sensors), so you need to check whether the resistor in the MMR model that you purchased is interchangeable.

Modification of damper and airflow

Many drivers may have encountered the problem that in very cold weather there is no way to regulate the uniform supply of warm air in all directions. So it turns out that either the side windows are covered with ice, or the legs freeze. For example, if the VAZ-21103 stove does not heat well, then the problem is obviously in the dampers. So, on vehicles that were produced after 2003, there is no such problem, but on those that came off the assembly line before, you will have to work with this. There is nothing complicated here; you will need to cut out the edges of the damper with a regular metal file (you don’t need to touch the windshield damper). You can also saw off a little bit from the flap that supplies air to the side windows. As a result, if you put the damper on the legs, then approximately 50% will go to the side windows, 25% to the legs, and another 25% to the windshield. If you install it on the windshield, it will blow only on it.

Another reason why the VAZ-21103 stove does not heat well is that the airflow is insufficient. Let's finalize it. For this you will need anthers, as well as a grille. Using an elastic band, we attach the grille to the boot, for which we use any suitable glue. We secure the boot on the reverse side with a clamp or tie and enjoy the result. This solution is not suitable for the driver’s seat, as it will heat up the right leg, but it’s perfect for passengers. Well, now let's move on, because we still have a lot to consider.

Refinement of the stove

Owners of VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 cars often face the problem of a poorly functioning stove. The most common complaint is the constant fogging of the side windows and poor airflow for the feet of both front and rear passengers. You can very easily deal with these problems even on your own, without contacting service centers. There are many recommendations on the forums for correcting these problems through small improvements with photos and detailed descriptions, but this article will provide an overview of the most common and effective methods.

Possible causes of malfunction

Let's take a closer look at why the VAZ-2110 stove does not heat well. The reasons for this can be very diverse. One of the most common is that there is no coolant in the engine cooling system, or its quantity has dropped below o. To find out if this is so, you need to look into the expansion tank and check the level, if necessary, add antifreeze or antifreeze. Another quite relevant reason may lie in the heater core itself. It fails quite often and remains cold when it should be hot. It is not uncommon for a gap to form in the radiator on the “ten”. It is quite natural that if there is a crack or hole in the case, it will not heat.

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The left handle (temperature dial) sets the desired temperature in the cabin from 16 to 28C. In the extreme positions (blue and red dots), the heater damper closes or opens completely, providing cold or hot air, respectively. The right handle sets the fan operating mode.

1303.3854 4 or 5 position Manufactured since 1996, currently discontinued For heaters: 2110-8101012, 2110-8101012-01, since 2001 2112-8101012-01 and 2112-8101012-02. This controller and heater are interchangeable

1313.3854 5-position Manufactured since 2001, currently discontinued For heaters: 2110-8101012, 2110-8101012-01, since 2001 2112-8101012-01 and 2112-8101012-02. This controller and heater are interchangeable

1333.3854 5-position Manufactured since 2003, currently discontinued For heaters: 2110-8101012, 2110-8101012-01, since 2001 2112-8101012-01 and 2112-8101012-02. This controller and heater are interchangeable

1323.3854 5-position Manufactured since 2003 Since September 2003, the heater 2111-8101012 has been installed on VAZs of the tenth series. This controller is not interchangeable with previous ones. AVTOVAZ does not recommend changing the heater yourself.

2) Interior air temperature sensor (called “ceiling air sensor” ). A small-sized fan is built into the sensor.

3) Micromotor gearbox (MRZO-01). MMR. Old model until 2003. (photos 1 and 2) Price 1200 rub. New model after 2003. (photos 3 and 4) Price 600 rub. There is a shaft position sensor (resistor) inside the MMR. See interchangeability of MMR.

Setting up the VAZ 2110 heater control system

To increase the accuracy of maintaining the temperature in the cabin, the SAUO unit provides the ability to adjust to the sensor using an adjustment potentiometer located under the slot on the side wall of the controller housing.

To do this, remove the controller from the socket and, using the trimming potentiometer, adjust the setting according to the following calculation:

0.2°C per revolution for controller 2110-8128020-01. Rotating the potentiometer clockwise reduces the temperature
0.3°C per revolution for controller 2110-8128020 (1303.3854). Rotating the potentiometer clockwise increases the temperature

The principle of operation of the VAZ 2110 stove:

The SAUO unit receives a signal from the ceiling temperature sensor in the cabin and compares it with the temperature set by the driver. If the difference is more than 2C, then the ACS unit sends a control signal to the micromotor reducer, which controls the heater dampers (opens or closes hot air from the heater).

Damper control : Based on the received information and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper, sending appropriate signals to the damper drive micromotor.

Fan speed control : to obtain a low rotation speed (all but the last), an additional resistor (No. 2) is used, which has two spirals with resistance (0.23 and 0.82 Ohms). When both spirals are connected to the electric motor power supply circuit, the 1st fan rotation speed is ensured; if a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm is turned on, the 2nd speed is provided. When the electric motor is turned on without a resistor, the fan rotor rotates at the maximum 3rd speed (4100 min-1).

Mode “A” on the ACS controller, depending on the difference in air temperature in the cabin and the temperature sensor in the ACS unit, regulates the fan rotation speed (the speed changes when the difference is more than 5C between the sensors). Mode “A” does not affect the movement of the damper.

In the extreme temperature positions “MIN” and “MAX” on the ACS unit, the heater damper should move regardless of the readings of the ceiling sensor.

How to determine the reason why the VAZ 2110 stove does not work

Problems with the stove may be due to the lack of coolant in the Engine Cooling System (ECS): You need to check the level of antifreeze/antifreeze in the expansion tank. Check that this system is not clogged and is functioning properly.

If the heater is not working well , then the reason may be in the heater radiator : You need to make sure that the heater radiator is hot. Perhaps the reason is an air lock ; to eliminate it, you need to drive the front wheels onto a hill and let the engine run at medium speed for a couple of minutes. If this doesn’t work, then use the instructions in this article. Check the heater radiator for leaks and replace it if necessary.

If the heater blows weakly , then most likely you just need to replace the cabin filter. And in order for the cabin filter to last longer, you can install protection on the air intake.

Temperature sensor faulty

Quite often the following problem occurs: you cannot correctly adjust the temperature in the cabin because the sensor located near the light bulb has failed or is not calibrated. Most often, the problem is a failure of the control unit, as well as incorrect position of the damper. Fortunately, all this can be solved quite simply; you only need a little time and a tool. The first step is to diagnose the serviceability of the temperature sensor. This can be done as follows: move the heating control knob to one side, and then to the opposite. In this case, the temperature of the air entering the cabin should change.

If the temperature changes, but the VAZ-21102 stove still does not heat well, then the problem is not with the controller. If there are no changes, it makes sense to replace the sensor or simply try to turn it off and check the functionality of the heater. If the controller is turned off, air will flow into the cabin at the temperature that was set on the electronic unit. In simple terms, this is how you can disable “A” mode on the fan. Well, now let's go further and look at a few more malfunctions of the stove on the “ten”.

Preparation

Preparatory activities do not include many complex operations. You will need to do the following:

Remove the negative terminal from the battery to de-energize the car and protect the car from possible short circuits;
Drain the coolant from the system. To do this, open the cap of the expansion tank to relieve excess pressure, and then unscrew the drain. The liquid must be drained into a special prepared container.

When draining the cooling liquid, one important rule must be observed - the procedure is carried out only when the engine has cooled down.

If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining.

The VAZ-2110 stove does not heat well at idle

If you notice that one “fine” morning, with the engine warm and the heater on, cold air is blowing, then you need to take action immediately. Most likely, the problem is a faulty thermostat or pump. In principle, the design of the stove is quite simple, and the point is that hot antifreeze gets into the stove radiator. A fan blows cold air through the radiator, which during this time heats up and passes into the cabin. If a flow that is not hot or even warm enters the cabin, then you need to look for a problem somewhere. One of the main reasons may be a broken cylinder head gasket. In this case, the system will be in an airy state. Immediately pay attention to the large cooling circle and the functionality of the thermostat.

But this is not the worst that can happen. The situation is much sadder when the VAZ-2110 stove (8 valves) does not heat well due to a faulty pump. In this case, the engine may overheat, since antifreeze does not circulate through the cooling system. If the stove is working several times worse than before, check the pump. A faulty faucet is another pressing reason. In this case, the inlet hose will be hot and the outlet hose will be cold. If you can’t open the tap manually, simply replace it; sometimes regular cleaning with compressed air is enough.

Air duct modification

Damper leaking

The main reason for a poorly functioning heater is a leaky air flow distribution damper, which is originally installed on the car, causing the heat flow to dissipate in the heater itself.

In order to fix this, it is recommended to make a new damper from plastic, which will fit more tightly and ensure precise direction of air flow. Additionally, the housing is sealed to ensure higher heater efficiency.

As a rule, this helps solve the problem, but a more noticeable effect will be achieved if you additionally tune the heater as a whole.

Side windows fogging

For example, to solve the problem of side windows fogging, two options are used:

or lay corrugations;
or seal as tightly as possible the cracks in the panel itself, through which significant losses of air flow occur.

The corrugation helps to improve the airflow of the feet, but it will not have much effect for the airflow of the side windows. So the best way to improve side airflow is to seal all the cracks in the panel. It is especially worth paying attention to the holes for the fastening bolts - they should be sealed with tape or modelin. After this, you can additionally pay attention to the joining of the upper and lower parts of the panel.

These measures will help eliminate air loss, and all the warm air will be directed to the right place, so that the stove will begin to work noticeably more efficiently.

If the gear motor or heater is broken

In most cases, this element cannot be repaired; it is much easier to replace it. This is very simple to do, and now we will look at the sequence. If the VAZ-2110 stove does not heat well, the thermostat and pump have nothing to do with it, and there is no air lock, the air still blows cold or barely warm, then you will have to change the gearmotor. To do this, remove the windshield wipers and dismantle the frill (you need to unscrew three screws). Next, disconnect all the wires that go to the gearmotor and remove it. Then you simply connect the new part and, with the help of a friend, adjust the air entering the cabin.

Sometimes it makes sense to check the heater directly. It breaks quite rarely, but no one is immune from this. To verify whether it is malfunctioning or working properly, you must remove the main deflector. Then you need to straighten the fasteners. It is more convenient to move the flap from the side of the engine compartment. A large amount of scale, just like mechanical damage (crack, hole, etc.), indicates that replacement will be needed. Remember that if the VAZ-2110 stove (injector, 8 valves) does not heat well and the problem is in the radiator, then you will need to completely disassemble the stove in order to replace it. This is not so easy to do, but with due diligence and free time you can do it yourself.

Work to replace the fan in the cabin

Replacing the heater motor of a VAZ 2110

The subsequent change of the heater motor will be done directly from inside the car:

Under the dashboard you need to find the block that goes to the electric motor. She disconnects.
After this, you will need to unfasten the ground wiring of the electric motor. As a rule, it is pressed to the body by the front mounting nut of the heater.
The trim and lining of the windshield frame are dismantled, and you cannot do without unscrewing the mounting screws.
The right upholstery is removed from the interior heater, and the fastening nuts and screws should also be unscrewed.
The heating hoses are disconnected. At this stage of work, extreme caution must be taken, since antifreeze residues may leak from these hoses and the heater radiator.
To prevent the smell of coolant in the car interior, you need to lay a material that absorbs moisture well.
The wiring is disconnected from the electric motor, from the micro-reducer, and also from the pneumatic valve.
After these steps, remove the front housing with the stove casing. These elements are fixed with brackets and screws. It is worth noting that the engine and motor are located on the casing.
The latches are removed, and the engine and motor are removed.

Recommendations for replacing the motor

Replacing the heater motor of a VAZ 2110

You can disassemble the electric motor yourself only to evaluate the collector and clean it. If the cause of the breakdown lies in another situation, then it is not advisable for a non-specialist in working with such parts to disassemble it. It's better to buy a new electric motor.

Note! It is also not recommended to dismantle the engine impeller on your own, since installing it in its place will disrupt the balancing, which plays an important role. Naturally, the electric motor will function, but not smoothly, which can lead to breakage of the bearings and noise when the stove is turned on.

Since the stove is in a disassembled state, it becomes possible to calmly view the other components of the cabin heater. So:

In order for more heat to come from the radiator, you need to dismantle it and wash it. It is fixed on the rear heater casing, which is removed by unscrewing the mounting screws. After this, the radiator can be easily removed and washed under the pressure of water flowing from a hose that is connected to the radiator inlet or outlet tube. The same pressure washes away dirt from the surfaces of the removed radiator.
To disassemble the air ducts and heater control mechanisms, you will need to remove the instrument panel on which the main air ducts are located.

Note! Usually the panel with the main air ducts is made as one piece, so it must be handled with the utmost care so that it does not have to be replaced later.

After this, you need to remove the interior air ducts, which are secured with special screws, and the decorative lining of the floor tunnel.

Note! Under this trim there are air ducts for heating the feet, which are attached to the body with screws and latches.

The air distributor is removed from the dashboard by unscrewing the mounting screws and disconnecting the damper control rod.
Reassembly must be done in the reverse order of disassembly. If necessary, seal the dampers with glue. You can also seal the mounting points of the hoses with the radiator with sealant.
When all the parts are assembled and installed in their places, the functioning of all components is checked and antifreeze or antifreeze is added. It all depends on personal preference.
At the final stage, they check the tightness of the attachment of the hoses to the radiator and the actual operation of the assembled stove.

The stove does not heat the air well or the airflow is not of sufficient quality

Sometimes the air heats up very slowly, which is clearly not a delight, especially in severe frosts. In addition, it also happens that the quality of the warm flow is not very satisfactory. In this case, it is necessary to replace the plastic damper with an aluminum one. The latter costs a little more, but its efficiency is many times higher. As practice shows, many drivers are faced with the fact that the old-style damper bends during operation, which leads to loss of heated air. If you are willing to pay for heat in the cabin, then purchase a heater from a VAZ-2112. It is slightly better, although it may not have a cleaning filter or will not have a recirculation function (depending on the model).

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About problems with the damper

As noted a little above, two types of dampers are installed at the manufacturer: old and new. In the first case, it is plastic with a foam rubber seal. It does not shine with special quality and quickly breaks down during operation. The second type is more reliable, since the damper is metal and the seal is rubber. So, on the VAZ-2110 there are two dampers: upper and lower. The first is responsible for supplying cold air to the cabin, the second is responsible for supplying warm air. If, when switching with the handle, you hear the damper moving, but the air is cold, both blowing and blowing, then it is quite possible that the drive or the damper itself has failed. In the latter case, it is easiest to change it to a new one. In some cases, it makes sense to use glue, such as dichloroethane. However, you need to understand that for this you will have to disassemble the heater, and this is a labor-intensive task.

Using the SAUO controller, move the lever to minimum. Cold air should be blowing. If you turn it to maximum and there is no flow, this indicates a malfunction of the lower damper, which is responsible for supplying warm air. But at the same time you need to monitor whether the top one closes. If there is no cold flow, then it is closed. Another probable cause is jamming. This happens due to a banal misalignment or jamming due to rust. You can try to remove the central deflector, reach to the damper with your hand and try to move it there. This element may not fully open or close. In this case, the easiest way is to replace the damper with a new, better one.

Replacement

Now we proceed directly to replacing the motor. You will carry out the procedure from the salon, so make yourself comfortable.

Under the dashboard, locate the connector that goes to the heater motor. Turn it off.
Next, you need to disconnect the negative wiring of the electric motor. Often on a VAZ 2110 this element is pressed to the body by the front fastening nut.
You need to remove the trim and trim from your car's windshield frame. Along the way, you will have to unscrew several fasteners.
You need to remove the right side of the upholstery from the stove, after which the fastening nuts are unscrewed.
Be sure to disconnect the heating hoses. Try to be as careful as possible here, since coolant will most likely leak from the heating hoses. It is impossible to drain it all, even with the most careful approach.
The ends of the hoses can be plugged with something like plugs to prevent liquid from spilling into the cabin.

Extraction process

To prevent carpets and floors from being damaged by the cooling liquid, lay down absorbent materials. For example, diapers for adults are perfect. They are available at any pharmacy.
Disconnect the wiring from the electric motor, micromotor gearbox and pneumatic valve one by one.
Now you can dismantle the front housing along with the casing of your heating stove.
These devices are secured using mounting screws and brackets.
On the stove casing there is the desired motor, as well as the engine.
Remove the latches, and then remove the engine with the motor.

Dismantled unit

Useful tips

After completing dismantling work, you can remove damaged, non-functioning elements and then install new ones in their place.

But when making repairs, we advise you to follow some important recommendations.

You can disassemble the electric motor yourself only if you want to check the condition of the collector and clean it;
If the cause of the breakdown is not the presence of debris and contaminants in the collector, then it is strongly not recommended to work with the electric motor yourself;
Contact an experienced electrician who can disassemble and return the device to its previous functionality;
Do not remove the engine impeller. If done incorrectly, you will upset the balance, which plays a huge role in the proper operation of your car's heater. The electric motor will operate if the balancing is out of balance, but the impeller will begin to rotate unevenly, which will lead to beating of the bearings and loud noise when the cabin heater is turned on.

It is not difficult to dismantle the motor yourself, but to repair it, the most correct solution would be to purchase a new electric motor with a motor.

The stove motor is a rather sensitive element that periodically fails. To replace it, no special skills are required, but to repair the element, it is better to contact trusted service stations.

The main reasons for a non-working stove

If the VAZ-2112 stove does not heat well, then one of the following problems may be occurring:

Impossibility of temperature control.
When there is a cold air flow under the hood, uncharacteristic clicking sounds are heard.
The radiator is leaking.
Lack of functioning of the temperature sensor, which can be found on the ceiling of the cabin.
Damage to the ACS control unit.

These reasons are the most common. You can eliminate each of them yourself, and we will tell you how.

Inability to regulate temperature

If the VAZ-2112 stove does not heat, then it is worth checking whether it is possible to regulate the temperature regime. This problem may occur due to malfunctions in the control unit or due to a malfunctioning damper. First of all, it is worth checking the serviceability of the temperature sensor, which is located on the ceiling of the cabin near the ceiling lamp. We turn the temperature control lever starting from the cold position and ending with the hot position. Although temperature changes will still be felt. If the supply of hot air begins only when the sensor is installed in the hot extreme position, then we can speak of its failure and prepare to replace it with a new element.

Damper problems

If the stove is not blowing well, then it is worth checking the operation of the damper. The fasteners on it may oxidize and in this case the damper will not turn. You can only get to the damper through the hood, after first removing the deflectors and bending the antennae. After such actions, you can try to move the damper from the inside. If everything is fine with the damper and there are no traces of oxidation on the fastenings, then it will move easily.

Website about joints

The following problem arose - air stopped blowing from the heater. To identify the reason, we need the following diagram (only it is for a 3-speed controller, but I have a 4-speed controller, but the principle is the same)

I followed the following algorithm: 1. Check whether the power supply to the controller is suitable (3) - turn on the ignition, disconnect the 6-terminal block of the controller and measure the voltage on the 3rd and 6th plugs.

If not, check the mounting block (4). Most likely fuse F18 has blown.

2. Check if power is coming out of the controller (3) - insert the 6-terminal block back, turn on the ignition, turn on all the speeds on the controller (3) one by one and measure the voltage - 1st speed - 3 and 1 plugs, 2nd speed - 3 and 5, 3 speed - 3 and 4 (for a 4-speed controller, 4 speed is added - 3 and 2 plugs).

If not, then the controller (3) is faulty.

3. Check whether the power supply to the fan electric motor (1) is suitable - remove the windshield frame trim (jabot) (Smart Book, p. 159), turn on the ignition, pull out the block from the fan electric motor (1), turn on all the speeds on the controller one by one (3 ) and measure the voltage on the block.

If there is no voltage at any speed, then the fan motor (1) is faulty. If there is voltage at at least one speed, then the additional resistor (2) is faulty.

In my case, the fan motor failed. It is recommended to change it immediately, but I decided to remove and disassemble it