VAZ 2107 pump: purpose, malfunctions, repair and replacement

Repair / From Autoclub

• Troubleshooting
• Replacing the water pump

  Choosing a new pump

• Video: choosing a water pump
• Preparation of tools and workplace
• Dismantling the pump
• Pump installation
• Video: installing a water pump
• Water pump repair

Classic VAZ car models are distinguished by their simplicity of design, which allows car owners to carry out most repair work themselves. Diagnosing and replacing a mechanical coolant pump is also quite simple and can be done by yourself.

Pump VAZ 2107

On cars with a liquid cooling system, including the VAZ 2107, one of the main elements responsible for maintaining the operating temperature of the engine is the pump. Thanks to this unit, the circulation of coolant is ensured. If problems arise or if the water pump fails, the normal operation of the power unit is disrupted, which can lead to serious consequences and expensive repairs.

The pump circulates coolant through the engine cooling system

Purpose

The operation of the pump is aimed at continuous circulation of coolant (coolant) through the engine cooling jacket. The antifreeze is heated under the influence of the rubbing elements of the power unit, and the necessary pressure in the system is created by a water pump. The liquid is directly cooled in the main radiator, after which the coolant again enters the cooling jacket. If circulation is interrupted for at least 5 minutes, the motor will overheat. That is why it is so important to monitor the proper operation of the node in question.

More about the VAZ 2107 radiator: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/sistema-ohdazhdeniya/radiator-vaz-2107.html

Pump design

On the VAZ 2107, as on many other passenger cars, the pump has almost the same design. The unit consists of a housing with a central shaft located inside, on which the impeller is fixed. The shaft is secured against axial displacement by means of a bearing, and the tightness of the structure is ensured by an oil seal that prevents coolant leakage. There is a hole in the pump cover through which the shaft comes out, where the pulley hub and then the pulley itself are attached to it. A belt is put on the latter, which on the “seven” rotates the generator and pump from the crankshaft. On modern cars, the pump rotates via a timing belt.

The main elements of the pump are the housing, shaft with bearing, impeller and oil seal

Where is

On classic Zhiguli models, the pump is located on the front of the power unit and is attached not to the block, but through a separate housing. By opening the hood, you can easily notice both the pump pulley and the assembly itself.

The pump is located in the front part of the engine and is part of the cooling system of the power unit: 1 - supply pipe to the cabin heater; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - radiator; 4 - pump; 5 — thermostat; 6 — manifold heating tube; 7 — return pipe from the cabin heater

Which pump is better

For the VAZ 2107, water pumps with catalog numbers 21073–1307010, 2107–1307011–75 and 2123–1307011–75 are suitable. The last two options have an enlarged impeller and a slightly reinforced structure. Initially, these pumps were produced for Niva. The slightly higher cost of such pumps is fully justified by the better performance.

On “Sevens” equipped with both injection and carburetor engines, the same water pumps are installed, and their repairs are carried out in the same way.

The old pump has an impeller made of cast iron, and the new one is made of plastic.

The product in question is produced today by many companies, but the most popular are:

• luzar;
• Hepu;
• TZA;
• Phoenix.

At the car market you can find pumps with impellers made of different materials: plastic, cast iron, steel. Products with plastic impellers, which are equipped with embossed and elongated blades, receive positive reviews. Elements made of cast iron are characterized by lower performance, and as for steel ones, they are susceptible to corrosion and are quite often fake.

The housing is replaced if it is damaged, and in other cases only the pumping part is changed

The pump can be purchased either complete with a housing or separately. If the housing is not damaged, then it is enough to replace the pumping part. If the design has serious flaws or is completely broken, then you cannot do without replacing the housing.

Video: which pump to install on the “classic”

Electric fan

We are talking about the fan that is installed on the cooling radiator. It works quite rarely. It turns on only when the temperature at the radiator outlet is exceeded. A sensor is installed in this place, or, to be more precise, a thermal switch. It consists of a bimetal plate, which at a certain temperature is deformed, changing its geometry. In this case, the contacts connected to this plate mechanically are closed.

It is worth noting that the cooling system of the VAZ-2107, malfunctions of which can be eliminated fairly quickly, is still not very perfect. The sensor, according to the manufacturer, is capable of switching large currents and has an impressive service life. But it is better to have a degree of protection - switching on should be done using an electromagnetic relay, which is controlled by a sensor. This way you can increase the resource many times. In addition, it is necessary to have a button in the cabin connected parallel to the sensor. With its help, you can force the fan to turn on.

Signs of a pump malfunction

Sooner or later, problems arise with the pump and the unit fails. This may be due to both the high mileage of the car and the installation of a low-quality product. Therefore, it is worth considering what malfunctions may occur with the pump and what to do in this or that case.

Oil seal leak

It is quite easy to detect coolant leakage through the oil seal: a puddle usually appears under the car. If the sealing element is damaged, for example, as a result of wear, antifreeze will get to the pump bearing, as a result of which the lubricant will be washed out of the device, and the part itself will soon collapse. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to periodically inspect the car and eliminate possible problems.

If the oil seal fails, antifreeze leaks from the pump.

Appearance of noise

If extraneous noise is heard from the pump area while the engine is running, this indicates an imminent breakdown of the unit. The most likely cause of noise is failure of the bearings or weak fastening of the impeller. In any case, the part needs to be dismantled, subsequently damaged, repaired or replaced.

Video: how the pump on a VAZ makes noise

Decreased performance

Whatever antifreeze is used in the cooling system, it is a chemical substance. Over time, erosion occurs in the pump housing or impeller, which can lead to a decrease in the flow of pumped liquid. As a result, the motor may overheat with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, if the coolant temperature sensor on the instrument panel begins to exceed +90˚С (operating temperature), it is worth thinking about a possible replacement of the pump or, at least, a revision of this unit.

Increased vibration

If increased vibration comes from the pump area, first of all you need to inspect the pump housing in the bearing area: sometimes cracks may appear on it. It would also be useful to check the correct installation of the generator belt, pump pulley and fan. If faulty parts are found, replace them.

Dirty coolant

If the coolant has not been changed for a long time, problems may arise with the pump. It is not difficult to determine if the system is dirty: the color of the liquid will be brownish instead of red, blue or green. If the antifreeze turns black, most likely oil has entered the cooling system.

Dirty antifreeze indicates the need to replace it

How to check the pump's performance

You can check the functioning of the pump yourself. To do this you will need:

1. Warm up the engine to operating temperature and clamp the upper pipe leading to the radiator. If you feel a surge in pressure when you release it, then the pump is working normally.
2. There is a drain hole on the pump so you should pay attention to it. If the oil seal does not cope with its functions, then antifreeze may protrude from this hole.
3. While the engine is running, you need to listen to extraneous sounds. If a hum is heard from the pump, then most likely the bearing has become unusable. You can check it with the engine turned off by shaking the pump pulley. If play is felt, it means the bearing needs to be replaced.

Work on checking the pump with the engine running should be carried out carefully, not forgetting about the rotating fan and high coolant temperature.

Is it possible to eliminate a pump leak on the way?

The loss of some antifreeze on the road is indicated by an increase in the temperature of the coolant and a decrease in the level in the expansion tank. If you have located the leak and are convinced that the pump is to blame, you can try to fix the problem. Failures that cause antifreeze leakage are as follows:

• The joint between the flanges of the pump and the cylinder block has lost its tightness, antifreeze is leaking from under the gasket;
• a crack has formed in the pump body;
• the housing was destroyed by the impact of the impeller.

You can insert a wedge into the hole in the housing from the front side and coat it with cold welding.
As a rule, problems with a leaking water pump are critical and are quite difficult to fix on the road. Try to tighten the leaking gasket by tightening the 4 pump mounting nuts, which will require removing the generator drive belt and pulley. Don't overdo it - it's easy to strip the threads on Ø8mm studs.

Try to seal a small crack with a chemical composition - cold welding. If possible, tape the patch to the body with something so that it does not fall off, add water and get to the garage. It will not be possible to seal a large hole from the impeller; you need to look for an option to tow the car or call a tow truck.

Video: repairing a hull crack

From a financial point of view, pump restoration is more profitable than a complete replacement; the savings are about 50% of the cost of a new part. Considering how often minor breakdowns occur on Zhiguli cars, such a difference in price plays a role. The technology for replacing the bearing and oil seal on the VAZ 2101 water pump is also suitable for other cars equipped with a classic engine: VAZ 2121 Niva and its modifications, Niva-Chevrolet.

Design features and procedure for self-replacement of the water pump on various modifications of Gazelle cars

Replacing the pump yourself on a Niva Chevrolet: quickly, efficiently and with your own hands

Preparing for repairs

Before starting work, you need to cool the engine. Do not try to carry out repairs on a hot engine, as this may result in burns. It is optimal if the temperature drops to 40-50 degrees. If you plan to replace the pump in the injection system, but you are not going to fill in new antifreeze, you need to prepare a clean container for draining. For greater convenience, disconnect and remove the battery. This will free up space for work.

Now your task is to get rid of the antifreeze in the oven. Open the stove tap to drain all the liquid. First, unscrew the plug on the radiator. Under it, of course, set the container to 10 liters. Wait until all the antifreeze has drained; to speed up the process, open the cap on the radiator. Then unscrew the bronze bolt on the engine block - this is the second plug. That's all, the antifreeze has been drained, and it is now possible to replace the pump on a VAZ 2107 car.

Fluid leaking from the drain hole or from under the seating surface

There are different signs of a malfunction of the VAZ-2109, 2107, 2114 and other car models. So, if the coolant was of poor quality, a leak may occur in the area of ​​the drain hole. In this case, leakage occurs, the formation of drops after the vehicle is run in. This can be determined by examining the area of ​​the drainage hole. It is worth noting that a small leak of liquid is normal for a new pump. This happens within the first 10 minutes. motor operation. This occurs due to the mechanical seal moving to the correct position.

If the new pump's break-in period is complete and fluid is still leaking from the drain hole, this is a sign that it is faulty. It is necessary to thoroughly flush the cooling system and install a new pump. Next you need to fill in the required amount of new antifreeze of acceptable quality.

If a leak is observed from under the seating surface, this also indicates a breakdown. In this case, a sign of a malfunction of the VAZ-2107, 2110, 2109 or other models is wetness, the appearance of drops, smudges on the body or around the specified area. The cause of such a breakdown is incorrect installation of the pump or incorrect use of sealant or seals.

If the pump is new, it needs to be removed and checked for correct installation.

It is especially important to pay attention to the tightening torques. If the pump is already old, it must be replaced

Features of the cooling system of classic Lada

The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is actually no different from other engines built on the basis of the Fiat 124 engine. It is not our plan to describe its operation and design, however, the pump bears the main load and is responsible for the circulation of the coolant. Despite the simplicity of the water pump design, it is subject to a whole bunch of requirements, and failure to comply with at least one of them can cause an antifreeze leak or disruption of its circulation. As a result, the motor will overheat with all the ensuing consequences.

The Zhiguli water pump is a two-part housing in which an impeller is placed on an axis. Bearings or bushings on which the axle rotates are pressed into the housing. There are also many questions about the bearings, since they must be completely sealed, and in addition, they experience a rather serious load, which is exerted by the drive V-belt. Most problems with the pump are caused by the bearings - they wear out, play appears on the pump shaft, the cooling system depressurizes and antifreeze leaks.

Replacing the water pump on VAZ 2108 and 2109

Even an inexperienced car enthusiast can repair and replace the pump on a VAZ 2108/09. You will need a standard set of tools - open-end and socket wrenches (10 and 17), screwdrivers, etc. If you plan to replace the pump, you should purchase a kit consisting of the pump assembly itself and a sealing gasket, and silicone sealant. In addition, for work you will need rags, acetone solvent and a canister of fresh antifreeze.

The repair kit for the water pump must contain a new gasket

As already noted, the pump is built into the bore of the engine cylinder block. The pump drive pulley is rotated by the timing belt. Therefore, to dismantle the pump, you must first remove the belt protective cover and the belt itself. But before this you need to perform a number of preparatory operations.

1. The negative terminal of the battery is disconnected.
2. The coolant is completely drained into a pre-prepared ten-liter container. In working condition, about 8 liters of antifreeze circulates in the cooling system of the VAZ 2108/09. If the fluid has been changed recently, it can be reused. It is prohibited to drain coolant onto the ground, as it is poisonous to plants and animals.
3. The generator belt is removed. To do this, the fixing nut on the tension bar is loosened, and the generator is moved towards the engine. The belt sags and is easily removed.
4. To ensure that the settings are not lost after removing the timing belt, the drive pulleys should be aligned to the marks. It is not difficult. The right front wheel is lifted with a jack. Then fifth gear is engaged. By slowly rotating the wheel, the mark on the camshaft pulley is aligned with the stationary mark on the engine.
5. The timing belt tension roller becomes loose. To do this, the fastening screw is unscrewed and the roller is moved away from the belt gear.

After removing the belt, you can proceed directly to dismantling the pump. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting bolts and remove the pump. This is not always easy to do. The pump may “stick” to the landing site. In this case, you will need a chisel and a hammer, with the help of which the layer of old sealant in the socket is carefully torn off. After this, the pump can be easily removed.

The pump is secured with three bolts to the cylinder block body

It is impossible to completely remove the pump in the normal position of the car - the body gets in the way. You need to raise the motor slightly. To do this, the right side of the car is lifted on a jack - the engine is tilted.

If you have an assistant, you can do without hanging the body. One person forcefully pulls the motor in the direction opposite to the direction the pump exits the socket. Another person pulls out the pump at this time.

After removing the water pump, the impeller blades are inspected. They may break off or crack. This happens if the engine has been severely overheated, or the impeller is made of poor quality material. Small blade fragments usually fall out of the drain valve.

Chips on the impeller sharply reduce pump performance

To be completely sure that the cooling system is clean, it is recommended to flush it using the following algorithm.

1. Remains of sealant, dust and debris are removed from the engine surface with a rag and solvent.
2. The mounting bolts are cleaned of grease, rust and debris. Before installing the new pump, apply a thin layer of sealant to the threads.
3. The gasket is lubricated with waterproof sealant and the new pump is carefully installed in place. Sometimes it may be necessary to press the pump using a wooden spacer.
4. The bolts are tightened first by hand, then using wrenches. In this case, it is strictly forbidden to overtighten the threads - the pump housing may crack.
5. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
6. Fresh (or previously drained) coolant is added.
7. Air pockets are removed from the system.
8. The engine starts and the cooling system is checked for leaks.

Professionals recommend replacing the tension roller along with the water pump. To check the serviceability of the roller, rotate it by hand. If the roller rotates with difficulty or a crunching sound is heard, it needs to be replaced.

It is generally accepted that the water pump should be changed every 90 thousand km of the car. However, this figure is conditional, depending on the operating conditions of the vehicle. Obviously, in the city cycle with constant traffic jams and limited speed, the cooling system will wear out faster than on the highway. Therefore, the need to replace the pump should be assessed based on its actual condition.

Causes and methods of determining leakage

To figure out why refrigerant is leaking and solve the problem, you need to understand the reasons. What are the reasons for a possible leak of consumables? They are listed below.

1. If the problem appeared during cold weather, then it may well be related to cracks in the tank. When the coolant (coolant) is diluted with water, it can freeze at subzero temperatures, causing the expansion tank to burst.
2. The system connections could become depressurized as a result of a slight loosening of the clamps.
3. The appearance of cracks in the pipes and hoses of the cooling system.
4. The thermostat gasket is worn out.
5. The radiator has broken down or malfunctioned during its operation.
6. If coolant gets into the engine oil. But this reason does not specifically apply to your problem if the coolant flows from the clutch side. By the way, there can be any kind of plugs there, if you yourself (or the previous owner, a foreman at a service station) installed them during any work.