Initially, CV joints were positioned as elements with a very long service life. Manufacturers even assured that they could last as long as the car itself.
Photo of CV joint for VAZ 2114
But in reality, everything is not as colorful as it is described. A grenade has a life limit. What grenades, you ask. The grenade is the CV joint. People often use the concept of “grenade”. This can be explained very simply - the CV joint looks like a grenade. That's all. Therefore, do not be confused if you hear “grenade” when talking about CV joints. It is the same.
Cost of anthers
The price range is quite wide: from approximately 150 to 1000 rubles.
and higher. It all depends on the make of the car and the manufacturer of the part. Non-original spare parts are cheaper. However, it also happens that the cost is unreasonably high: for example, because of the brand. Thus, the price of covers for a Toyota Land Cruiser reaches 8,000 rubles. The same can be said about other prestigious car brands. But not all car owners are eager to pay that kind of money for essentially an ordinary rubber band, albeit of high quality. Therefore, many simply select covers from other cars that are suitable in size and cost. Causes of boot rupture:
- constant driving through water and mud;
- high torsional load (regular sharp turns);
- careless (unprofessional) repair of suspension parts.
Tags: DIY repair
Comments 54
I did everything as written. The left boot was changed normally. but with the right one the thread was cut off by the nut. I do not know why ?
Perhaps the thread was already loosened, or maybe the nut did not fit the thread, or maybe it was pulled too hard.
bought a new car
andrey19810205
Perhaps the thread was already loosened, or maybe the nut did not fit the thread, or maybe it was pulled too hard.
maybe because it was poorly countered?
andrey19810205
Perhaps the thread was already loosened, or maybe the nut did not fit the thread, or maybe it was pulled too hard.
This means that the bent parts of the nut were not bent properly
well it turns out like this. On the classics I never bothered to bend anything, everything was always fine. here the thread is only half hardened
Tell me... did you have any play in the wheel drive relative to the inner CV joint? i.e. I have a play of 5 cm, if the drive is pushed towards the box and back, pulled out... the inner CV joint stands motionless relative to the box, spins when the drive-shaft rotates (it’s just such a problem, I disassembled the suspension, the car fell off the jacks, they lifted it, and the front lever was unscrewed from the body, they were pushing back and forth to level the car in the garage, the right front strut came off, the drive flew out of the CV joint, the boot did not break, I sorted out the matter, i.e. the CV joint remained in the hub, the hub nut was tightened , and the drive flew out.)
Yes, there is play, it should be, otherwise the drive would be cut off when the suspension was working, and when the steering wheel was turned, it would break.
Damn, I was already thinking about taking everything apart further. broke the car :-((((
andrey19810205
Yes, there is play, it should be, otherwise the drive would be cut off when the suspension was working, and when the steering wheel was turned, it would break.
That's right, you're right! I just found it on the Internet... The grooves in the internal joint housing are straight, which allows the parts to move in the longitudinal direction, “lengthening” or “shortening” the drive (this is necessary to compensate for the mutual movements of the suspension and power unit)... that’s it, now I’m calm
Fault diagnosis
The VAZ 2114 has 2 external and 2 internal CV joints. First you need to determine which one is knocking. The optimal test would be on a suspension diagnostic stand. If this is not possible, diagnosis by ear is possible.
Two signs indicate a grenade malfunction in a VAZ 2114:
- the sound resembles a crunch;
- It usually appears when turning.
The simplest and most accurate way to do a garage check is as follows:
- Place the car on a flat surface;
- Turn the wheels to one side (to the middle position or a little further);
- Drive off with medium speed. It is worth remembering that starting too smoothly may not reveal a crunch due to insufficient load on the CV joint, and starting too abruptly may lead to the drive flying out of the wheel.
- Repeat the operation by turning the steering wheel in the other direction. The appearance of a crunch indicates a malfunction of the outer CV joint on the side in which the steering wheel is turned.
Visual detection of ruptured anthers will also be a sign of a CV joint failure. If you discover a damaged protection for any grenade, it must be immediately removed, disassembled and cleaned. If there is enough grease and there is no significant wear on the hinges yet, it is enough to replace the boot and fill it with new grease. If the wear of the balls is obvious, it is better to change the grenade.
CV joint boot VAZ 2114 with a defect
It is more difficult to diagnose a malfunction of the internal grenade on a VAZ 2114. If it malfunctions, it crunches when starting off in a straight direction, and not when turning. But the same symptoms, for example, include play in the steering rack or wear on the engine mounts.
Sometimes the problem can be diagnosed from the pit by tugging on the drive from the gearbox side: strong play or the appearance of extraneous sounds indicate that the internal CV joint should be replaced.
Required spare parts
Depending on the volume of work - failure of one grenade or simultaneous replacement of the internal and external CV joints of a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115, you may need the following spare parts:
- external grenade (items 2108-2215012-86, 21080221501286, 2110-2215012, CV-P 1001 K, 302040);
- internal hinge (items 2108-2215056-86, 21080221505686, 2108-2215056, FJ228, 302315);
- for replacing CV joint boots on VAZ 2114 and other models (article 2108-2215030, 2110-2215068, 21100221506800, 2108-2215068).
The price of the unit varies over a wide range - from 1 thousand to 2.7 thousand rubles.
Disassembling the drive and replacing the boot
Sequence of work.
The car is driven into a pit, chocks are placed under the wheels, and the car itself is left in first gear.
Before completely removing the wheel, loosen all the wheel nuts.
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The protective cap of the nut securing the drive to the hub is also removed.
To prevent the nut from unscrewing from the shaft, it is centered around the circumference, which is why it has bends that fit into a groove made in the shaft.
These bends need to be aligned, this is done with a thin screwdriver or a drift and a hammer.
After aligning the bends, using a socket and a powerful wrench, the nut is unscrewed, and the washer located under it is also removed.
Next, the car is jacked up and wooden stands are placed under its sills.
The wheel nuts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed.
Next, work is done under the car.
If there is a crankcase protection, it can be unscrewed. Then the oil from the gearbox is drained through the drain plug into the prepared container.
Next, you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the hub.
This will make it possible for the latter to move sideways. At the same time, you can check the condition of the support itself.
The steering wheel must be turned all the way to the left so that the drive is completely shifted in the inner CV joint, ensuring its minimum length.
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After this, the hub is removed from the splines of the drive shaft.
The outside of the drive will be removed.
Then you can go in two ways.
The first way.
Knock down the outer “grenade” without removing the inner CV joint.
To do this, you need to remove the boot clamps, and then cut the boot, and then wipe off the existing grease on the hinge.
Then you need to prevent the drive from moving on the internal hinge.
To do this, take a small vice or a butt wrench, clamp the shaft in them and hold it firmly in your hands.
An assistant, using a soft metal spacer and a hammer, knocks down the CV joint, striking the inner race of the hinge.
With this method, there is no need to drain the oil from the box. But there is a possibility that when striking, the inner race will jump out of the outer inner CV joint.
Also, shooting down a “grenade” in this way is not very convenient, since this work will be done in a limited space.
Second way.
Complete removal of the drive from the vehicle. To do this, a pry bar is driven between the gearbox housing and the internal joint and the shaft entering the gearbox is pulled back and forth.
After this, the drive is completely removed.
IMPORTANT: With this method, the oil must be drained.
The advantage of this method is also the ability to assess the condition and replace the gearbox seal, through which oil often leaks.
In the future we will consider work with the drive completely removed.
How to replace the outer CV joint boot without removing it
This is also possible, at least on domestic cars, but you will have to acquire (or borrow) a special device that stretches the boot. The device is a housing with movable arms attached to it and a connected hose for supplying compressed air. A rubber cover is put on them and they stretch it. All that remains is to pull the device through the grenade removed from the hub and release the levers. The process is worth watching in more detail in the video.
Replacing the inner CV joint boot
To do this, you will have to remove the drive shaft completely. But first you need to remove the outer CV joint, as described above, that is, pull it out of the hub without removing the grenade. Next, drain the oil from the box. After this, unscrew the nuts securing the inner joint (usually there are 6 of them) and insert a flat mounting between the gearbox and the CV joint - the part should come out of the socket. Clamp the part in a vice, then:
- remove the retaining ring using a flat screwdriver;
- pull out the inner CV joint housing and carefully pick out the balls located in the separator;
- remove the clip stopper and the clip itself;
- wash all parts in gasoline;
- install a new boot and, having generously treated everything with lubricant, reassemble in the reverse order;
- install the drive, tighten the drain plug and pour oil into the box.
Complete removal of the drive is also recommended if the grenade was not knocked down when trying to replace the outer CV joint boot. In this case, you can use a vice and achieve your goal. If you don’t need to knock down the grenade to replace it, just put on the cover after removing the inner CV joint, remembering to wash it first and apply new grease to the outside (the part cannot be repaired - it is not removable).
Advice from experienced motorists
There are some useful tips on this matter that are worth listening to.
- If you hear a characteristic crunch while driving in a straight line, it means the CV joint has failed. If this crunching noise is heard only when turning, then the problem lies in a faulty joint.
- Before installing a new CV joint, treat the grenade landing site with lubricant. This significantly extends its service life.
- To adjust the CV joint and seat it properly, use wooden attachments. If this is not done, the risk of damaging the new element is very high.
- The boot should be installed as tightly and efficiently as possible. If you don't do this, dirt and dust will soon get there. These components will quickly render it unusable, and repair work will have to be carried out again.
- The lock nut on the hub is tightened with a special torque tool. Moreover, tightening is carried out strictly with the parameters specified in the instruction manual for your VAZ 2114 modification.
- During a routine inspection of the technical condition of your car, be sure to pay attention to the condition of the clamps and rubber elements to ensure their integrity. Such seemingly insignificant components can lead to serious consequences and significant financial costs.
- The purchase of spare parts, including CV joints, should be made only from trusted sellers, certified distributors. If you buy a bad, low-quality part, just trying to save money, you will have to pay even more to eliminate the consequences that the use of such elements led to.
The CV joint is an important component of any car, and replacing it even on your own is not particularly difficult.
Source
Signs of failure of the outer grenade (CV joint)
There are two options here:
- signs that your grenade has already broken
- signs that the grenade will soon come out and break .
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How to understand that a grenade will break soon
Of course, the first sign of a malfunction of the external grenade is a crackling sound . If you hear a crackling noise while driving with the steering wheel turned, it is definitely a CV joint. The greater the angle of rotation of the wheel and the harder you press on the gas, the louder the clicks. Another sign that does not always appear is vibration on the steering wheel at speeds greater than 80 km/h. The vibration is only slightly similar to the vibration from an unbalanced wheel. It usually manifests itself as a slight twitching of the steering wheel.
How to understand that the outer CV joint is broken
If the CV joint breaks, the car will stop moving. In any gear engaged, press the gas, the speed increases, but the car does not move.
How to understand that it is the outer CV joint that has broken, and not the internal one or the clutch in general (the first signs of failure are similar to the signs of a clutch failure)? First of all, start the car and put it in any gear. Next, open the hood and look in turn at each of the shafts going from the box to the wheels (one short, the other long). If any shaft is spinning, it means that the CV joint has broken on this side.
I recommend not just visually looking at the shaft, but touching it with some long, hard object, such as a stick. The main thing is that there is nothing on it that can wrap around the shaft !!! When you touch the shaft with a stick, if it is spinning, you will feel a slight vibration. This is usually done in the dark, because it is difficult to understand whether a cylindrical object is spinning, especially in the dark.
Oil groups
For domestic VAZ 2115 cars, different groups of transmission oils are suitable, namely:
- GL-4
- GL-5
The first is suitable for gearboxes of front-wheel drive VAZs, and the second is universal and suitable for almost all domestic cars. Some people believe that GL-5 oils are better than GL-4, but this is not true.
These classes are simply different from each other, and none of them are better or worse than the other. For example, in some gearboxes, API GL-5 oils can have a detrimental effect on synchronizers, while API GL-4 is perfect for them. Oils for the VAZ 2115 GL-5 gearbox can be divided into three groups:
- SAE 85W90 - mineral lubricants such as Rexol TM-5-18, Norsi and Lukoil TM-5-18;
- SAE 80W90 - less thick mineral oils, including Wells TM, Spectrol-Forward, Texaco Geartex EP-C and others;
- SAE 75W-90 - synthetics and semi-synthetics: Motulgear, Teboil EP, BP Energear SGX.
How to remove a vaz shruz
Having determined that it is the external grenade that is broken, we begin to remove it.
How to unscrew the hub nut on a VAZ?
First of all, unscrew the hub nut. To do this, take a 30mm head and a lever, the larger the better. We put bricks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling (simply putting it in gear is not an option, the wheel will spin) and begin to unscrew the hub nut.
In this matter, the more you weigh, the better, since I very often lacked my weight and leverage of about one and a half meters. I got out of the situation in the following way: I stood completely on the lever, as close to the edge as possible, thereby giving maximum tension to the nut, and hit the lever with a hammer. Usually this method helped me unscrew even the most soured wheel nuts.
One more nuance: if the outer walls of the head come into contact with the walls of the hub, it is better to lubricate the head with mining or lithol, or, in extreme cases, with silicone grease. Thanks to this trick, the head will not bite in the hub.
How to remove a grenade?
The hub nut is unscrewed, now we remove the wheel, unscrew the two bolts that hold the ball joint, disconnect the suspension arm and the hub, move it to the side of the car while lightly tapping the grenade, remove it from the hub. At this point there are two options:
- The grenade is already broken.
- Replacing the grenade due to its crunching sound.
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In the first case, you simply remove the outer part of the CV joint from the shaft, then the retaining ring from the drive shaft and knock off the cage with a hammer.
In the second case, removing the CV joint becomes more difficult. You need to deflect the grenade relative to the shaft at the maximum angle so that the bearing balls and their cage are visible.
Now use a hammer to break the jumpers of the cage between the bearing balls and take out the balls one by one. When you take out the last ball, you can remove the body of the grenade, and then its inner part sitting on the shaft, after first removing the locking ring from the shaft.
Of course, you can simply try to knock the grenade off the shaft, but due to the locking ring this will be problematic.
That's it, the CV joint is completely removed. Now let's start installing the new part.
Location
It will be impossible to replace the CV joint on a VAZ 2114 if you do not know where exactly these elements are located. Their location is easy to determine - on both sides of the front suspension at the bottom of the car. They are oblong elements and fit into the hub of each wheel.
CV joint location
That is, getting to the node is not difficult, but this will require certain conditions.
The most important thing is that the replacement procedure is not complicated, which allows you to do the work yourself. But let’s say right away that if you don’t have the time, desire, or are simply not confident in your own skills, it’s better to entrust the repair to specialists. You will spend extra money on this, but you will be sure of the result.
How to install a new CV joint on a VAZ
Be sure to follow this sequence for installing new parts:
- Small clamp.
- Grenade boot.
- Large clamp.
- Retaining ring.
- The CV joint itself.
First, we clean the drive shaft from dust, dirt and old grease. Most CV joints come with lubricant, a boot, two clamps and sometimes a new hub nut. If suddenly there is no lubricant in the kit, it is better to use graphite lubricant, and if it is not available, then simple lithol. First of all, we put on a small collar. Then the boot (it should go behind the limiting washer) and a large clamp. Then we put a retaining ring on the drive shaft. Now open the tube of lubricant and completely squeeze it into the grenade. Now it's time to put the CV joint on the drive. Because of the locking ring, it will be difficult to insert the drive into the grenade, so we take a hammer and lightly, trying not to damage the thread, press the grenade into place. Now you need to put the boot on the CV joint and tighten the clamps. Assembly occurs in reverse disassembly sequence, but there is one nuance! Do not overtighten the hub nut! This may cause the bearing to hum. The hub nut must be tightened with a force of 225.0–250.0 N*m. Of course, few people have a torque wrench. So, tighten the nut tightly, but not with all your might. In theory, a force of a maximum of 25 kg will need to be applied to a meter-long knob. But, the extension pipe will spring back under such force, so how can you describe it exactly? But obviously there is no need to jump with weight.
Order of Operations
Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 is similar to working with an internal grenade. They are located on the shaft drive, which must be reached by performing many operations:
- To replace the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114, if there is no inspection hole or overpass, you need to jack up the car and unscrew the bearing nut. IMG3
You need to remove the wheel; it can be used together with a jack for support.
Now you need to unscrew the 2 brake caliper bolts. One is located at the top, the other at the bottom.
The next operation is to separate the brake pads. This can be done using a flat-head screwdriver.
You need to remove the brake caliper along with the caliper and pads. The entire knot needs to be tied so that it does not hang.
Now unscrew the steering end nut and press it out using a puller.
Unscrew the two ball joint bolts, remove the wheel bearing nut, and remove the washer.
Now you need to unscrew the ball joint fastening in the direction of the steering knuckle, remove the grenade from the bearing hole, and pull out the shaft. If jerking doesn’t work, we help with a screwdriver. If the oil is not drained before work, the hole can be plugged with a rag.
The shaft needs to be carefully cleaned of the old grease, remove the old ring, put on a new boot, a new retaining ring.
Take a new grenade, squeeze new lubricant into its cavity, spread it over the surface, and install the hinge on the shaft.
Now you need to hammer the grenade onto the shaft. This is done using a punch. You need to pull the boot onto the CV joint, fix the clamp against the direction of movement of the car, and compress it using pliers.
The small clamp is fixed identically. Now you need to install a new retaining ring on the hinge. The unit is ready for installation. The CV joint together with the shaft is inserted into the box. If you used a rag, you must first remove it.
What to do if the boot breaks on the road
The situation is not uncommon: you had to change a tire while on the road and you noticed that the boot was torn. It is highly not recommended to leave “everything as it is” and go to the nearest car service: CV joint is not a cheap part at all, especially if it is on an expensive foreign car. Options:
- Place the car on a jack (if it is not already on it), pull out the old contaminated grease through the hole and fill the boot with grease until it stops, and to prevent it from falling out when driving, wrap the problem area with a plastic bag and tighten it along the corrugation with a rope.
- Wrap the torn case with opaque tape or electrical tape. This “alternative” will last for 500 kilometers until the boot is changed.
On the road, check whether your “winding” is in place: getting dirt under it will sharply reduce the life of the CV joint.
Let's summarize
From the above, it is obvious that replacing a VAZ 2114 CV joint with your own hands is quite affordable. The activities take little time, provided you know how to handle the tool and have common sense. To ensure that repairs do not have to be performed frequently, you need to not only regularly check the condition of the boot. But also change the lubricant. Experts recommend doing this at least every 100 thousand kilometers.
Further steps are performed in reverse order. Also see the sequence of replacing the CV joint on a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 in this video:
Source
Consider the device
The stable availability of spare parts for any domestic cars in stores, and their quite affordable price, makes the repair (replacement) of a CV joint not costly, both financially and in terms of time. However:
- You should take into account that replacing a boot in terms of the volume of work performed is no less than replacing a grenade on a VAZ 2115
- That is why in practice, due to the labor intensity, replacing the boot cannot be called easy, in addition, you will need skills in using metalwork tools and following the rules in accordance with safety requirements when starting to perform such work
- CV joint, also called a “grenade” for its peculiar shape, its task is to transmit torque from the box to the wheels of the car, the design of the CV joint is not complicated, it consists of the main seven elements, photo below
The main elements of the CV joint and the CV boot (boot)
- However, although its service life is designed for a long time, replacing the VAZ 2115 CV joint is a procedure that has to be performed quite often and this largely depends on the intensity and operating conditions of the machine
- The need for replacement arises when play appears in any connections of the device, or when there is a characteristic crunch and crackling sound when turning the wheels.
- Replacement is usually carried out after checking and confirming the version of the CV joint malfunction, and you need to diagnose it to make sure that the whole problem really lies in it
