VAZ 2109 starter retractor relay - replacement and repair

Starter activation relay VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

On a VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 and similar cars, the starter is turned on not directly, but through a relay.

Purpose of the starter switch relay VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The starter switch relay is designed to reduce the load on the ignition switch contacts when starting the engine with the starter. Since the starter is the most powerful consumer of electrical energy in the electrical equipment of a car, if it was turned on directly, the ignition switch would burn out very quickly.

— Where is the starter activation relay installed for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The starter switch relay for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 is installed on the engine compartment panel.

Where is the starter relay installed?

— Starter activation relay device

The starter activation relay consists of a coil (copper wire winding) with a magnetic core located inside.

— How does the starter relay work?

After turning the key in the ignition switch to the “Starter” (II) position, its contacts “30” and “50” close. Voltage is supplied to the starter activation relay (relay contact “85”). It is triggered (the contacts inside the relay are closed) and supplies voltage to terminal “50” of the starter traction (retractor) relay. The retractor is activated and the starter turns.

— Connection diagram for starter relay

— Faulty starter relay

The most common malfunction of the switching relay is when the starter stops turning on.

Oxidation of relay contacts or ground

Relay burnout due to short circuit

A “break” in the electrical circuit may also occur, which should be taken into account when diagnosing a malfunction.

“Culprits” of the malfunction of the VAZ 21083 starter relay

A faulty relay must be replaced with a new one; if the contacts are oxidized, we clean them and check its operation.

— Applicability of the starter activation relay on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 vehicles

In the electrical circuit for switching on the starter of a VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 car and their modifications, a starter switch relay 111.3747-10, 97.3747-10 and their analogs are used.

— Characteristics of the starter activation relay 111.3747-10

Rated voltage - 12 V

Operation voltage: no more than 8 V

Release voltage - 1.5 - 5.5 V

Winding resistance - 85±5 Ohm

Notes and additions

The starter is the most powerful consumer of electrical energy in a car's electrical equipment (1.3 kW). When starting the engine, the current consumed by it can reach 400 A, which is a lot. Therefore, all connections in its electrical circuit must have reliable contact. Otherwise, the starter may “shoe” because its collector is dirty.

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Element Role

All VAZ cars, including model 2109, have a standard engine starting system, which is based on an electric starter. Here's what you need to know about him.

1. A starter is a small electric motor that is connected to the flywheel of the motor via a coupling (Bendix) for a short period of time to start the rotation of the flywheel.
2. Despite its small dimensions, the starter passes through itself enormous currents.
3. If the starter circuit were closed directly in the ignition switch, then not a single component of the system would be able to withstand such current loads. As a result, they would burn out.
4. Therefore, for these purposes, the starter is connected remotely to the battery via a relay. Its contacts are designed for high currents.
5. The starter operates briefly and must be turned off after the engine starts. Otherwise, its active destruction will begin due to the influence of motor power.
6. Relyushka performs these tasks perfectly. Actually, it is precisely to ensure the functioning of the system and protection against current, timely shutdown of the starter, a retractor relay is included in the design.

Element diagram

Replacing the starter switch relay on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Welcome! Starter activation relay - many will now think that we are talking about a retractor relay, in fact this is not so, in total the starter has two relays, one that turns it on and the second that extends the bendix and pushes its gear onto the crankshaft pulley (The second is the same retractor relay), if the first one fails (happens rarely, mainly due to overloads on it or due to faulty wiring), you will not be able to start the starter and therefore the car will not start; if the second one fails, there will be a little another situation, namely, the car may also not start and the clicking will occur when the key is turned, but this can be said even less, but if this relay fails completely and does not return the bendix to its reverse position, then the following will happen: When you turn the key, the starter will start turning the car's engine and eventually it will start, but when you return the key after the engine has started in the reverse position, the bendix on the starter will not come back (the solenoid relay does not work) and in a very short time the starter will become unusable .

Note! To change the relay, which is only responsible for turning on the starter, you need to stock up on: Only one “8” wrench, for the most part you don’t need to take anything else, but maybe one more wrench so that, just in case, you can remove the minus terminal from the battery!

Summary:

Where is the starter relay located? It is located in the engine compartment and is attached there to the car body using one single nut; in the photo below this relay is indicated by a red arrow, and the blue arrow shows the air pipe behind which this relay is located.

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How can you get it out yourself? If you were able to notice that the starter sometimes cranks your power unit with tension when the battery is fully charged, then the culprit for the phenomenon is the armature, which touches the stator. A small problem is enough for the starter shaft to become slightly misaligned: the narrow gap disappears completely. But sometimes the reason lies in severe wear of the bearing (front). You can sleep peacefully for a day: this problem can be quickly solved. To eliminate it, you need to prepare a tap of suitable size, find a drill chuck, take a long bolt and an old bushing, a jar of nuts and a box of nails. Now it’s worth disconnecting the battery, the starter, and then removing it from the “coat,” that is, removing the wiring. Happened? Proceed to unscrew the lower bolt of the device and remove the remaining fasteners from the starter.

We take the sword and install it in the chuck of a hand drill: let's try to make a thread in the sleeve. Carefully! Carry out the following actions at low speeds. A marksman is like a girl: the object is fragile. Excessive force or slight misalignment can break it. God forbid this happens: you have to fork out money for a new product. Although you can carry out resuscitation using a long threaded bolt, turning out new grooves. Once they are ready, you need to insert the nails so that their tips protrude no more than a centimeter above the end.

It turned out to be a real masterpiece of futurism! We mount it into the bushing, perform manipulations, trying to pull out the fragment, while doing everything smoothly, without distortions. As soon as we succeed in cutting the revolutions, we pull out the tap, then insert a bolt of a suitable size and pull the sleeve out. This operation can be performed several times. The starter likes to be capricious due to the misalignment of the shaft, so after some time it will again be difficult to hold the bushing. What to do? Definitely don’t wipe the sweat from your face, finish repairing the VAZ 2109 starter, repeating monotonous actions. Get ready for a shopping trip. While you are enjoying the smell of iron, your significant other will buy a magazine where they will read an article about the history of the VAZ 2109 brand and regret that they purchased a non-domestic unit at a lower price.

How to replace the starter switch relay on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

1. If you carefully read the above text, you will immediately guess how to remove this relay, but we will still instruct you, find this relay in your car (the location is shown in the photo above), you see a block of wires connected to it, then disconnect it, and after it is removed and set aside, take a wrench in your hands and unscrew the relay mounting nut with it and then remove it, by the way, if the work is done in the rain or in very wet weather or if you are simply afraid of a short circuit in the wiring (B In this case, all the wiring will burn out and will require replacement), then protect yourself by disconnecting the wire from the minus terminal on the battery; if you don’t know how to do this, then study “this article”, it says everything in the first paragraph.

Note! To check whether the relay is working or not (We don’t recommend buying a new relay just like that, always check everything), you can use two different methods, the first is that you have to remove the cover from the mounting block and pull out from there a relay with exactly the same marking as you have a relay for turning on the starter, after removing these two relays, replace these two relays and try to start the car, if it doesn’t start, then it’s not the relay and you need to look for the problem either in the starter itself or in the ignition switch, the second method implies that you will find the wire bring the jumper (Indicated by a blue arrow, the wire can also be used) and its conclusions to the wire block, namely to its contacts “30” and “87” (These are the lower and upper contacts of the block, take a closer look at the relay on it, they are marked or for clarity, take a look in the photo they are indicated by a red arrow, although there is a block from a completely different car, but it is almost the same and on it you can understand where these two contacts are located), if the car starts immediately (Don’t forget to remove the jumper when it starts to start) then it’s all in relay, if not, then look further (When you do the second method, do not forget to turn the key in the ignition until all the devices light up)!

Additional video clip: For more detailed information about checking the relay using the classic example, see the videos below:

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The starter does not turn over, what should I do?

In the life of owners of the VAZ-2114, and other cars close to this line (see above), sometimes such an unpleasant moment arises when you need to go somewhere, but it is not possible to start the power plant due to the fact that the starter does not turn the flywheel engine.

That is, when you turn the ignition key to the “start” position, nothing happens.

And if in the summer you can calmly look for the cause of the malfunction, then in the winter, in severe frost, you won’t spend much time searching for the malfunction. And in order to quickly fix a breakdown, you need to know where to look for it.

How to quickly start your car in cold weather, see below.

VAZ 2109 21099 2108 - fuses and relays

VAZ-2109

“Sputnik” was popularly called “
nine ”, was produced in a hatchback body and represents a 3-door version of the VAZ 2108 . The VAZ 21099 was also assembled on this platform . Therefore, the arrangement of blocks and the purpose of their elements are common. This series of cars was produced from 1984 to 2011 mainly with gasoline engines (injector and carburetor). In this material you will find a description of the fuse and relay blocks of the VAZ 2109 2108 21099 with diagrams and examples of execution. Let's highlight the fuse responsible for the cigarette lighter.

A few words about the nine starter

Before we learn how to use the repair kit for the starter we are interested in, let's figure out what this mechanism is. It is a simple electric motor with four poles and brushes, which is attached to the flywheel ring gear. The following starter models were installed on “nines” of different years of production: 29.3708; 5712.3708; 423.3708.

Any of them operates on a mixed excitation principle and has a traction relay with two windings. The differences between these starters lie in the design of the commutator device and the drive. Thus, the model 423 mechanism has a cylindrical type commutator, the 29 model has an end-mounted one, and the 5712 starter has a planetary gearbox installed in the drive. Their repair kit is absolutely identical, as well as their malfunctions.

Fuse and relay box

The main block with fuses and relays is located under the hood, in the rear, in the installation compartment on the left, under the protective cover.

Option 1

Fuse designation

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Fuse number 12 at 16A is responsible for the cigarette lighter.

Relay purpose

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Option 2

Photo - diagram

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Alarm Signals

The starter is the highest-loaded electrical consumer in a car. If, when starting the car, an extraneous sound, noise, or crackling appears, or it becomes clear that there have been changes in the operation of the starter, action must be taken without delay. On a VAZ 2109, problems with the starter can be different, some of them can be fixed with your own hands by reading how to do it or watching a video. Here is a small instruction on faults.

If, however, the starter does not work on the VAZ 2109 and the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist.

Solutions

At first glance there is a lot, but nothing is impossible. What is made by human hands can definitely be repaired, and with the necessary knowledge and skills, this can be done much faster and with better quality. Good repair.

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! All. But, especially car enthusiasts of VAZ models. VAZ starters, despite their reliability, durability and endurance, still fail sooner or later.

The average starter life is usually 5-6 years, which is half the life of the engine. And whether it’s a malfunction of the VAZ 21093, VAZ 2109 or 21099 starter, the problem will still have to be solved by diagnosing, repairing, and possibly even replacing this electrical component.

Since the VAZ starter design differs only slightly, we will take into consideration the situation when the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn.

After turning the key in the ignition, you may find that:

What to do if the starter does not work? Of course, look for the cause of this phenomenon and try to eliminate it.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after one click

Reasons why the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn,

after a single click, there may be several.

The fork that pushes out the starter bendix may be bent, broken, or otherwise deformed. In this situation, the bendix does not fully fit the flywheel; the cores only partially enter the coil, preventing the contacts from closing.

The teeth on the Bendix sprocket have worn out. Because of this, the solenoid relay cannot transmit voltage to the starter.

Also, the cause of the phenomenon of “one click” of the starter may be either the order of the armature bushings or a short circuit in the winding.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after frequent clicks

Repeated clicks are repeated due to the fact that the retracting winding retracts the core, and the holding winding cannot hold it and lets go. This can continue until the battery runs out completely.

VAZ 2109.21099 starter does not work and there is no response to turning the key

The absence of any response from the starter to turning the key in the lock sometimes indicates a short circuit in the windings (if smoke and a burning smell appears from the starter when you try to start).

If the lack of starter response is not accompanied by “special effects” in the form of smoke and a characteristic odor, you should pay attention to the condition of the additional relay and the contacts of the battery terminals. The same reaction of the starter is observed when the ring in the starter gearbox is partially destroyed

The same reaction of the starter is observed when the ring in the starter gearbox is partially destroyed.

If the starter does not respond to turning the key in the lock, you need to take into account that the reason may lie in the key itself. If the check confirms this, it will be enough to just replace the ignition key to fix the problem.

It may also happen that after removing and disassembling the starter, you will not find any damage. Do not rush to replace it with a new one or go to a car service center. Perhaps after you clean the starter, apply new grease and reinstall it, it will come back to life.

After you find and fix the starter malfunction, try not to cause it to break down again in the future, because this lightweight device already has a hard time - the rotation of the massive flywheel and the start of movement of the entire piston group of the engine depend on its serviceability.

Additional block

It is located in the cabin, under the panel on the right, mainly on cars with injection engine types.

Decoding

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We have also prepared a video on this publication on our channel. Watch and subscribe.

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Still have questions? Ask them in the comments.

Comments 3

Hello. I have a VAZ 99. Year of manufacture 1998. The car has been converted. I have an injection one. ECU January. Now the question is - is there a difference in the carburetor fuse block from the injection one? I have a block before the 1st sample (finger type), the car sometimes does not start, in general there are a bunch of reasons. A month ago I opened the block, water got in there, I didn’t bother and bought a used one exactly like this and installed it. after replacement even more problems. Should I install another block? Please let me know.

For the injector you need a block in which the side connector goes up (in the catalog it is designated 2114 or 2115 (newer modification)), and the pin connector is for the carburetor, most likely your fan is not working and the generator is not charging at idle, and little things Problems

Hello. Tell me please. I have a VAZ-2109. fuse box option-2. fuse f-13 left headlight does not light low beam. There is no power to this fuse. everything else rang. I don’t know where to dig next?

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Common causes of failure

Identification of starter components

If on a VAZ 2109 the injector or carburetor stops starting the engine, and the starter does not click, this may be due to various malfunctions.

In general, it should be noted that there can be several options for a malfunction of the starter unit:

If the injector does not start, and the starter unit makes only one click, the cause of the problem may be:

Starter unit "nine"

If the device clicks several times, but does not turn the engine and, accordingly, the VAZ 2109 does not start, then there may be several reasons:

You can turn the key as much as you like, but if the mechanism does not show any signs of life and the engine does not start, then the cause of the malfunction may be as follows:

If you have dismantled the mechanism and found no damage, try cleaning it and reinstalling it. It is quite possible that after this the VAZ 2109 starter will start working normally (the author of the video is the Avtoelektika HF channel).

Where is the fuel filter located?

The fuel filter (TF) on the VAZ-21099i is designed to clean gasoline from debris, dirt and various impurities; it is a monolithic structure with a rigid metal body and a filter element inside. The frequency of its replacement is every 20-30 thousand km of the distance traveled, also if the car begins to move jerkily, and diagnostics showed that the fuel pump is clogged.

It’s easy to find out where the fuel filter is located; to do this, you need to install the car on an inspection hole or a car lift. The TF is located on the bottom of the body, next to the rear beam and the gas tank, and is secured with a special clamp, which is tightened with a bolt and nut.

Before you start changing the filter, you need to relieve the fuel pressure, otherwise when you unscrew the fuel fittings, gasoline will splash under high pressure. You can relieve pressure in the line using a special nipple located at the rear of the fuel rail. Before starting such an operation, it is necessary to prepare a plastic container into which gasoline should be poured, then unscrew the safety cap.

To release the pressure, you can use a standard flat-head screwdriver; when you press the nipple valve, gasoline will come out of the system.

After removing fuel from the line, we proceed to replacing the fuel pump.

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Starter device, principle of its operation

The starter of the VAZ-2114 car (factory index - 5712.3708) is a DC power electric motor, additionally equipped with an overrunning clutch with a gear (Bendix) and a retractor relay.

The principle of its operation is very simple: when the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the solenoid relay. Due to the creation of a magnetic field in it, the armature connected to the plug is retracted.

This fork moves the bendix along the rotor shaft of the electric motor and engages the gear with the flywheel ring gear.

In this case, the armature, fully entering the relay, closes the contacts, and voltage is already supplied to the electric motor itself, which is switched on.

The task of the overrunning clutch is also to protect the electric motor. After starting the power plant, the rotation speed of the flywheel significantly exceeds the speed of the gear. It turns out the opposite effect - the flywheel turns the gear.

And so that the force is not transmitted back, after exceeding the speed of rotation of the electric motor, the gear begins to rotate freely on the shaft until the driver turns off the power to the retractor relay, after which the spring returns the bendix to its original position, disengaging the gear.

Read more: Car starter design.

Dismantling

There should be no problems with the dismantling process. The main thing here is to remove the starter, since the required relay is held on it. Therefore, dismantling is carried out as an assembly.

1. Turn on the handbrake, disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal from it.
2. A wire with a large cross-section goes from the battery to the contact of the relay. It can be turned off by unscrewing it using a 13 key.
3. Remove the thin winding power wire from the solenoid relay.
4. Using the same 13mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts holding the starter to the clutch block.
5. You can remove the device through the bottom or top. If you chose the top, then you need to slightly rotate the starter around its axis and remove it.
6. The lower output is more difficult, since here you need to remove the crankcase protection. But if parallel work is carried out that requires similar manipulations, problems will not arise.

Repair

Next, you have a choice to make: replace the entire relay or try to repair it.

Only a relay that has a collapsible design can be fully repaired. It is not uncommon for cars to have a relay with a non-separable body. Repairs there are also possible, but only partial.

• Unscrew the pair of bolts that hold the relay on the starter, disconnect the core shackle from the upper end of the drive lever;
• Install a new solenoid relay in its place, thereby completing the replacement.

But if you want to save money or just like to tinker with your car, you can try to bring a damaged relay back to life. To do this, we offer you detailed instructions.

If this measure does not help, we will disassemble the case and repair it.

1. The relay consists of a housing with a winding inside, a core with a return spring and contacts.
2. The spring disconnects the starter rotor gears from the Bendix ring when the power to the relay winding is turned off.
3. The back cover of the relay is fixed with screws to the body. Therefore, the first thing we do is remove this cover by unscrewing the corresponding fasteners.
4. Both contact bolts have a nut, which you also unscrew.
5. You will see washers under the nuts. Do not lose them so that you can return them to their place during reassembly.
6. Unsolder both terminals of the winding using a soldering iron. Then remove the cover.
7. If you find traces of carbon on the contacts, they can be removed with a small file.
8. There is a rubber O-ring under the cover. Check it for elasticity and integrity. If the ring is damaged or worn, replace it with a new one.
9. Remove the contact plate along with the rod.
10. Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the return spring.
11. If the spring is deformed or stretched too much, it will need to be replaced. Otherwise, a worn spring will not be able to guarantee the desired contact. As a result, the relay does not work properly.
12. Disassemble the contact plate. To do this, you need to remove the retaining ring that insulates the washer. After this, the plate will fall out on its own due to the pressure created by the spring.
13. Remove the contact bolts from the cover. Clean the surfaces of their contacts. Often, due to burning of the contact surfaces, the solenoid relay stops working normally.

1. If the carbon deposits are too strong and cannot be removed with simple sandpaper, do not rush to buy new bolts. Just rotate them 180 degrees. So they will touch on the other side, where there is no carbon deposits.
2. The relay windings are located in a non-separable housing. If they are damaged, you will have no choice but to completely change the relay.
3. Replace all damaged and worn elements of the switching relay, and then put everything back into the housing. Reinstall the solenoid relay and check if the ignition returns to normal.

Read more: What is antifreeze liquid for?

If the relay has a non-separable housing, many recommend replacing it. But if you wish, you can even repair such a unit. To do this, you need to flare the housing with pliers, then unsolder the contacts and remove the cover. Next, follow the instructions given above.

The last stage of replacement or repair is checking the winding resistance.

If the unit is working properly, the multimeter in ohmmeter mode will show you the following data.

Measuring area

The indicator is normal

Between blade contact and bottom relay bolt

The resistance in this area should be about 0.5 Ohm

Between blade contact and body

When checking this area, you need to get 0.7 Ohms with an acceptable small error

If there is a significant deviation from the norm, replace the repaired relay or check a new one. It could be defective or counterfeit.

In this article we will tell you how to test the starter solenoid relay to identify faults and look at ways to eliminate them.

The car starter is a traction motor, which spins the crankshaft to further start the power plant.

Unwinding is carried out by means of a gear mounted on the starter rotor, which at the time of starting has a gear engagement with the flywheel ring.

Individual situations

If the VAZ 21099 injector stops starting, you can try to close the contacts of the mechanism in a straight line.

But sometimes there are emergency situations when the device stops functioning, let’s consider a few of them:

1. The injection engine does not start in cold weather, but all devices work normally, the battery is charged. If there is no click, you should first diagnose the safety components, electrical circuit, and also the solenoid relay. If the device clicks, the relay must be replaced.
2. all day, there was a spark, but in the evening the engine stopped starting. Before, you need to fully charge the battery, and then clean the contacts both on the battery and on the mechanism itself. If these steps did not help solve the problem, you need to check the battery itself more carefully - try closing the contacts with a wire, which may cause a spark to melt. If this does not help, try applying a positive charge from the battery directly to the relay. If there are no changes, the unit will have to be replaced.
3. If the car was operated normally all day, but after parking for five minutes it stopped starting, you can try to close the mechanism. You need to directly close two bolts on the relay; if this helps, but later the problem reappears, then disassemble the unit completely. Most likely, the problem lies directly in the erasing of the brushes. In this case, they will need to be changed.
4. The unit does not turn at all, but the car can be started from the pushrod. If the problem is not with the starter, then check the fuse box and ignition switch. But before this, you should check the wiring - the reason may lie in the oxidation of the contacts.

A starter, without it you can’t start the car, which means you won’t go far. The success of the trip depends on its performance. Therefore, you need to figure out how to prevent its failure, or fix an existing breakdown. Let's take a closer look:

• Alarm Signals
• Malfunctions