Do additives help reduce the whine of a VAZ gearbox?

April 30, 2021 Lada.Online 23 098 13

We have written about the howl and hum of VAZ gearboxes (manual and AMT) more than once. The reason is gear vibrations. The problem can be radically solved only by updating the factory equipment, which is not planned in the near future. Is it possible to reduce increased gearbox noise using transmission oil additives?

We have identified three of the most popular gear oil additives. Here's what LADA car owners write about them.

Why does first gear howl in an automatic transmission?

Sometimes the gearbox hum only appears when driving in first gear. When switching to the second, the unpleasant sound disappears. This means that the problem is in the planetary gear, or rather, in one of its satellites - a group of gears. Over time, the howl of the automatic transmission in first gear only becomes stronger. This leads to transmission scattering and complete engine stop.

The planetary gear needs to be repaired. You can, of course, not rush into a trip to the service station and wait for the mechanism to completely collapse, but such a delay can hurt your wallet. A complete replacement of a planetary gear is more expensive than repairing one of its planetary gears.

By the way, if an unpleasant sound appears only during forced (fixed) transmission, then there is no need to rush into repairs. Try changing the working fluid. But if the noise also appears while driving, this is a serious matter.

Will disassembling the manual transmission help eliminate the howling?

Most Lada car owners, having tried the methods listed above, calm down, manage to get used to the noise and continue driving their car. But some are ready to go all the way, so they decide to disassemble the box themselves or contact a service center for this service. Is it possible to achieve the desired result using this complex procedure?

Sometimes when opening the box, significant defects in individual gears are revealed. In this case, the transmission usually makes a loud noise when engaging a particular gear. There may also be problems with the clutch and release bearing. Sometimes replacing these parts solves the problem.

New Lada: Everything about the Lada Granta fuse box: where it is, location, diagram and decoding

In most cases, installing new parts does not make the gearbox quiet, because all gears are made on the same equipment, which, as already mentioned, does not allow for an ideal configuration.

The procedure for removing and disassembling the gearbox is lengthy and expensive, but may not yield results, so it is hardly worth going through the gearbox if howling is the only problem.

What to do if there is a hum?

In any case, from the listed reasons it is clear that the problems can be quite serious and will lead to expensive repairs, so this “signal” should not be neglected. You will need the help of a specialist, there is no way around this, because as a person unfamiliar with the mechanism, it is difficult to independently determine the problem with one hundred percent accuracy. I would like to give some important tips when diagnosing a transmission:

1. Find out what exactly caused the howling. If it is the main pair shaft, then keep in mind that it has already had its effect on other parts of the mechanism. Therefore, it is likely that replacing only this will not be enough.

2. Think about the feasibility of repairs; perhaps the costs of purchasing new or used parts will be high. Then it’s easier to find a contract transmission or a used one, but in good condition, than to repair a “dead man”.

3. Stopped for repairs, buy only high-quality and original parts, this will extend the life of your car.

Bearings Lada Granta

This inexpensive but relatively comfortable car produced by AvtoVAZ OJSC, according to the developers, will soon become a favorite of Russian car enthusiasts, since it combines such qualities as comfort, reliability, safety and, most importantly, a low price for its class.
As in other VAZ models, domestically produced bearings are installed here. This material covers the nomenclature of these products used in cars, as well as their imported analogues (do not forget that Chinese bearing manufacturers, and, for example, the Vologda Bearing Plant (VBF), which is among For some reason, motorists are considered the standard of quality, although VAZ mainly uses bearings from the European Bearing Corporation (Volzhsky and Saratov Bearing Plants)).

List of bearings used in the Lada Granta car that can be easily replaced

To view information on a specific bearing, simply click on the number.

It should be noted that in the vehicle documentation, bearing numbers are often indicated with a lot of additional (and often long-outdated) letter designations, which you can ignore. The same applies to accuracy class 6. Nowadays, quality standards are implemented in such a way that bearings with a declared class 6 from one manufacturer can be an order of magnitude worse than the zero class of another.

AVTOVAZ’s developments do not stand still, and in 2013 the company’s management, together with the design department, decided to switch to a new type of cable-driven gearbox. These gearboxes are installed on Lada Granta and Kalina 2 cars.

Appearance of the gearbox

Why power steering is no longer used in new cars

Power steering has long been part of the automotive industry. Such equipment allows motorists to maneuver the steering wheel without any problems. Older models did not have power steering, so steering was much harder. All power steering can be divided into types. They differ in type of design and principle of operation. Previously, hydraulic boosters gained great popularity, and then they began to be replaced by electric boosters. Now the pressing question is why automakers no longer install hydraulic boosters on new models.

Electric power steering can be combined with various autopilot systems

Electric power steering on modern vehicles has many advantages over hydraulic power steering. And this is explained by several factors. Firstly, such devices have less weight. Secondly, they do not consume a lot of energy. In addition, they are distinguished by a convenient layout and the absence of the need to carry out routine maintenance work.

Electric boosters can be combined with various autopilot systems. This may include automatic parking or a system for keeping the car in one lane. Recently, such designs have gained another advantage - they are cheaper to produce. As you can see, electric power steering has a whole list of advantages. Despite this, many motorists note the shortcomings and refuse to use such systems in their vehicles. As a rule, criticism of electric boosters can be heard from the older generation of motorists.

A more modern type of amplifier is spreading in the passenger car market. Despite this, hydraulic boosters are still in demand

The main drawback, according to many, is inaccurate and artificial feedback. However, developments do not stand still and experts are constantly trying to improve electric amplifiers, so such problems have long been solved. A more modern type of amplifier is spreading in the passenger car market. Despite this, hydraulic boosters are still in demand. They are used for trucks and special equipment. This is due to the fact that the hydraulic booster is able to withstand higher loads.

If you prefer carefree movement from one point to another, then you should choose electric power steering

Motorists who are accustomed to driving vehicles comfortably and feeling feedback from the car should pay attention to classic hydraulic boosters. Such a device does not require expensive maintenance. The car owner should only periodically check the fluid level in the system and monitor the condition of the oil in the expansion tank. If any breakdowns occur in the amplifier, you will not need to spend a large amount of money on repairs. If you prefer carefree movement from one point to another, then you should choose electric power steering. Such equipment requires less attention. The owner will not need to monitor the fluid in the system. Note that cars equipped with electric power steering are less responsive to driver inputs. This does not mean that the car does not obey and drives as it wants - there is simply no feedback from the steering wheel.

Bottom line. Electric power steering is gradually replacing hydraulic power steering from the market. And this is explained by the advantage of the former over the latter. They do not require maintenance and have a convenient layout.

Automatic transmission

“Automatic” was installed on the car of the Tolyatti Automobile Plant from July 2012 to March 2022 - this is 4 speed. Automatic transmission from Japanese manufacturer Jatco.

Grant's four-speed automatic transmission - model JF414E, classic type, with a torque converter; similar units are equipped in Nissan, Mitsubishi, and Suzuki passenger cars.

This type of transmission on Granta is paired only with the 98-horsepower VAZ-21126 power unit.

The gearbox is highly reliable; with careful operation and timely maintenance, it can run up to 200 thousand km.

It is necessary to replace the transmission fluid every 60 thousand km; the manufacturer recommends filling with Nissan branded ATF EJ-1 or Matic-S oil.

The quality of the Lada Granta automatic transmission does not cause any major complaints; if the transmission requires repair, it is mainly due to the fault of the driver:

• as a result of slipping, the clutches burn out;
• after overheating, gaskets and seals begin to leak;
• When you hit an obstacle, the automatic transmission pan breaks through, and then a thorough repair is definitely required.

Removing and installing the gearbox

Clutch housing fasteners to gearbox housing

If it is necessary to replace a component of a manual transmission on a Lada Kalina, you will need to remove the mechanism in question. The car is placed on a lift. Apply the parking brake and turn off the ignition. Then open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. The oil filler cap is removed. Remove the screen and install the previous element. The fixation clamp is loosened. The inlet pipe hose is disconnected from the corresponding sensor. The air intake nut is unscrewed. The checkpoint is removed.

Upon completion of the repair work, the manual transmission is installed in its original place. CV joint grease-4 is applied in a thin layer to the outer surface of the corresponding clutch bushing. The finger fixing bolts are turned towards the steering knuckles. If the bolt nut that secures the left control arm is back toward the body bracket, then the last fastener is removed and the control arm is removed.

The oil from the manual transmission is drained into a container. The wheel drive is turned out of the gears of the differential axle shafts. In their place, the plugs are dismantled. The brackets for the rear and left suspension mounts are installed on the gearbox.

During the operation of a car, various malfunctions can occur; there are breakdowns that are most typical for each car model. On the Lada Kalina, car owners quite often encounter a problem - the reverse gear of the manual transmission does not engage, and when such a defect appears, many car owners are prepared for serious repairs. But breakdowns occur for various reasons; the fault can be caused by either a mechanical or an electrical part. In order not to do unnecessary work, you need to start looking for the defect that has arisen from the most basic one, maybe the wire is simply frayed, or there is a bad contact in the plug.

Quick diagnostics

So, the car is started, the speed is turned on, the clutch is slowly released, and the engine speed gradually increases.

But instead of smoothly starting from a stop and starting to pick up speed, the car begins to jerk - the speed fluctuates, the speed either increases or drops sharply, despite pressing the accelerator pedal.

This can continue until either the twitching goes away on its own and the car begins to confidently gain momentum, or until the engine stalls.

It happens that the car starts moving quite safely, but as soon as the revolutions increase to 2000-2500, uneven movement begins, accompanied by sharp changes in engine operation, as well as in the speed of movement.

The same situation can be observed when reaching medium modes, that is, the engine reaches a certain speed level, after which twitching begins.

It happens that the car starts to jerk every time you change gears.

It is not necessary that uneven running occurs only under certain conditions.

It also happens that the car jerks spontaneously, without any frequency or conditions. That is, the car can jerk just once, in any mode, and then move normally for quite a long time.

Or the car was working normally, but suddenly began to twitch sharply, and this trouble no longer goes away.

In general, there are a lot of options, but one fact remains - the car has an uneven ride, and it is advisable to eliminate it as quickly as possible before the problem gets worse.

The first thing to do is determine under what conditions the twitching occurs. The easiest way to do this is while moving.

You should drive onto a flat section of the road where there is no traffic and start testing.

At first, just get moving, then gradually increase the speed, remembering the behavior of the car and watching the dashboard.

And this must be done until the engine reaches high speeds.

Afterwards, you will need to run the test again to make sure that the conditions for the appearance of twitching are determined correctly. And only after that you can start looking for the reason.

A summary table of the reasons why the car jerks for different types of motors for quick diagnosis.

New Lada: Manual transmission VAZ 2170

* applies only to diesel engines that have a Common Rail injection system.

** applies to vehicles equipped with direct injection engines and 6th generation LPG with liquid gas injection installed on them.

*** for cars with an injection system equipped with an electronic e-gas pedal.

**** for carburetors of cars with an electronic ignition system.

How to eliminate the howling of a VAZ box

The first thing you can do is contact the service center and request that the noise be eliminated as part of the warranty repair. This process is long, painstaking, requires patience and does not always end in victory. In most cases, the manufacturer claims that the sound during transmission operation is normal and the vehicle is not subject to warranty repair. But if the sound is very loud or the buyer is very persistent, the manufacturer suggests replacing the box. But, judging by the reviews of drivers who managed to replace the manual transmission under warranty, this does not always solve the problem. The fact is that a howling box is a manufacturing feature, not a defect, so whether it’s worth replacing it with exactly the same one is up to you to decide.

Modification of the clutch cable

Sometimes the noise is due to vibration transfer between the fork and the clutch cable. This problem can be solved with a simple modification that does not require financial investment. You need to remove the clutch cable from the fork, replace the standard rubber insert with a washer made of softer rubber, which dampens vibration well. The element is glued to a plastic part, which serves as a stop for the cable.

This method does not help everyone and will not allow you to achieve ideal silence, but it makes the unpleasant sound much quieter. In any case, it won't hurt to try to implement this simple modification.

Interior noise insulation

Another option is good sound insulation of the cabin. Of course, the howl of the box in this case will not go away, but it will be less audible. This event is expensive, but it will make the car more comfortable. If the performance of the transmission is not in doubt, and only noise is annoying, you can use this option.

Do I need to add oil?

It is difficult to check the oil level in a cable-driven box; this model does not have a dipstick. The only way to do this is to unscrew the oil filler plug. If at the same time the oil begins to flow out slowly, then the level is normal; if not, it is better to top it up. In this case, it is imperative to use exactly the same technical fluid as already poured in the box.

To add oil to the maximum level, you need to jack up the car from the side where the oil filler neck is located and add oil until it begins to flow out. For convenience, it is better to use a syringe. As soon as the liquid flows out, the plug must be quickly tightened. If you do not raise the correct side of the car, the transmission fluid level will be low.

In some cases, this procedure helps get rid of the howling or makes the box a little quieter. Some motorists noted that they had to add about 0.5 liters of oil to the manual transmission. But in most cases, the procedure does not eliminate the howling problem.

Does oil quality affect transmission noise?

At the factory, manual transmission 2181 is filled with budget oil of dubious quality. Many people prefer to replace it immediately. This not only makes the transmission quieter, but also extends its life. Does changing the oil eliminate the noise? In some cases, this procedure can improve the situation somewhat, but it is not a panacea. In most cases the box continues to howl.

Lada Vesta stove blows cold air

Regarding throttle washers, gazelle pumps and all that other stuff, I don’t need it. I need to restore the functionality of the cooling and heating system, which was functioning properly three days ago.

I also traveled at -38. It was ok. It's not a matter of climate conditions.

The stove in fucking Samara at XX does not heat up for all the unfortunate owners of an ordinary 4-hole thermos.

Overnight, cold air began to blow at XX, then cold air began to blow in any mode. After replacing the thermostat and pump today, after pulling all the pipes, the only problem that remains is with cold air at idle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8AExwMEq-k

Alternatively, the heater radiator is clogged and when you don’t turn on the gas, the pressure in the radiator is weak, it doesn’t heat well

It seems to be heating normally or my thermos is “unusual” (which I’m very doubtful about).

warms me up

the side nozzles, of course, are not so hot, I had to turn off the central ones - but that’s another story

Timych wrote: the stove in fucking Samara at XX does not heat for all the unfortunate owners of an ordinary 4-hole thermos. here it’s really inappropriate nea everything has always warmed and warms like in a bathhouse if your hands and head are in place.

yeah, do, finish, redo. constantly.

I haven’t tried it (because I’m talking about the taste of oysters), it warms me up a lot Good

Dranik you are not lazy

purchased from a showroom in May 2007

take off the panel and glue the stove with air ducts.

??this is idiocy

Well, in general, the question in the topic is not about the quality of the shit bowl, I apologize. The author needs something else.

I didn’t look at the version of the radiator that was crap into the trash.

Dranik you are not lazy

Dranik wrote: purchased from a showroom in May 2007

Dranik wrote: take off the panel and glue the stove with air ducts.

Well done Dranik. Keep it up. Good VAZ is a hand-built car. It is only assembled at the factory. And it is assembled by the buyer manually.

AvtoVAZ needs to make discounts.

I'm more about the fact that they do shit

purchased from a showroom in May 2007

Dranik wrote: take off the panel and glue the stove with air ducts.

Inlet is very hot, outlet is cool

That is, the coolant circulation rate through the heater radiator is insufficient. The only question is what is causing this lack of circulation. Is something clogged somewhere?

The only thing that confuses me is that you give 1500 rpm and everything is OK, the stove cooks

Well done Dranik. Keep it up.

VAZ is a hand-built car. It is only assembled at the factory. And it is assembled by the buyer manually.

And if you do it wisely, you need to remove everything, wash it, clean it. But it’s a very troublesome task to remove the panel. There is no other way to get to the radiator.

New Lada: Test: what suits you better, Lada XRAY Cross or Renault Sandero Stepway? — KOLESA.ru – automobile magazine

I'm rather talking about the fact that they make crap and sell it for cosmic money. If you count all the improvements after buying a new car, AvtoVAZ needs to make discounts.

If only you could buy a quality spare part the first time, replace it and forget about it. Let it be for big money. So, during the day you won’t find high-quality spare parts.

Automatic transmission hums when accelerating

Sometimes the car makes unpleasant sounds when starting to move. Perhaps it's the automatic transmission whining. It starts making noise when shifting into third gear or at a speed of 60 km/h. With further acceleration, the unpleasant noise intensifies. After reaching a certain speed (80-90 km/h), the sound from under the hood subsides. If you stop pressing on the gas, the sound will no longer appear, but further acceleration will provoke its appearance again.

Replacing the rear gearbox can solve this problem. It is also worth inspecting the rear brake discs. You need to check the back side (where the brake cylinder is located). Rusty deposits may accumulate on the discs. If their width is more than 1 centimeter and they are over the entire surface, this may cause extraneous noise. The problem is solved by cleaning the inside of the disks.

What noise additives are best to use?

There are many additives to eliminate noise. Manufacturers promise that their use will increase the service life of the mechanism and ensure smoother operation of the automatic transmission. Let's highlight the following additives:

The appearance of extraneous noise in the automatic transmission area is a reason to diagnose and repair the mechanism. A normally operating automatic transmission never hums or makes a grinding noise; it emits only a uniform, monotonous sound. The presence of noise is a sign of a malfunction that can occur both in the selector and in the working part of the mechanism.

Any gear transmission makes noise during operation. Under normal conditions, its level is low and is almost completely absorbed by the walls of the gearbox housing. If the VAZ 2109 gearbox howls, then this indicates problems in its functioning.

Why does the box howl and make noise?

Replacing Grant cable gearbox bearings without removal — search on DRIVE2

Replacement of rear bearings of gearbox 2181 - Lada Granta.

Review from the owner of Lada Grant

- with your own hands.

I decided to carry out the repair by removing the box

, because I wanted...

I decided to carry out the repair by removing the box

, since I also wanted to solve the issue of a dry splined primary shaft, and at the same time look at the condition.

Replacing the Grant clutch. — Lada Granta, 1.6 l., 2013.

Granta

normal, engine 186, gearbox

2181, mileage 31t. with kopecks, 3 years like from the assembly line.

10, unscrew the lower flywheel screen (three bolts with a key *10*) last, before removing the box

, so this bolt (see photo below) is not convenient to unscrew and the screen itself.

Description of transmission

Below we will consider the most important indicators that affect the operation of the car:

• the gear ratio for the VAZ 21807 shows figures of 3.94, for the French analogue this figure is slightly lower - 3.87;
• with this transmission, the Lada Vesta accelerates to one hundred in 10.2 seconds, which is a second faster than the JH3 - 11.2;
• the maximum speed for the VAZ 21807 is 188 km/h, for the JH3 the figure is 178;
• The fuel consumption of Lada Vesta with a domestic gearbox is 7.5 liters, the French gearbox consumes 7 liters.

Manual transmission
The most important thing the engineers worked on was modifying the transmission tooth profile. They took an example from European models, where the noise of the gearbox should merge during downshifts with the roar of the engine

Lada Vesta designers applied new developments, improving the entire system and adjusting its balance.

Do I need to add oil?

It is difficult to check the oil level in a cable-driven box; this model does not have a dipstick. The only way to do this is to unscrew the oil filler plug. If at the same time the oil begins to flow out slowly, then the level is normal; if not, it is better to top it up. In this case, it is imperative to use exactly the same technical fluid as already poured in the box.

To add oil to the maximum level, you need to jack up the car from the side where the oil filler neck is located and add oil until it begins to flow out. For convenience, it is better to use a syringe. As soon as the liquid flows out, the plug must be quickly tightened. If you do not raise the correct side of the car, the transmission fluid level will be low.

In some cases, this procedure helps get rid of the howling or makes the box a little quieter. Some motorists noted that they had to add about 0.5 liters of oil to the manual transmission. But in most cases, the procedure does not eliminate the howling problem.

Basic malfunctions of car radios

In total, we can identify nine main problems that will answer the question: Why does the radio in the car not work, namely:
It doesn’t even turn on. The main cause of this failure is lack of power. To check it, you need to use a tester. If it turns out that everything is in order with it, then it is necessary to carry out a full diagnosis of the car radio. Absence or interruptions of the backlight on the control panel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUxAYpXuYIY

This indicates problems with LEDs or light bulbs or in the power circuit. Why do the buttons on the radio not work? There are several possibilities for a malfunction to occur, namely: a fuse or chip has broken, or the contacts or buttons have simply become clogged.

This is possible if you often use polish, or spill some drink on the car radio. Also, over time, the buttons become clogged with dust. Problems with reading the disc. It may be due to damage to the laser head or shock absorbers of the radio.

They can occur due to shaking of the car, for example, when driving on a rocky road. If the message “Please code” is displayed, then this means that the settings have failed and you are on your way to a service center, where they will enter the code for the standard car radio. Why the flash drive in the radio does not work

First of all, it is important to make sure that the indicator light on the drive is on. This indicates that the USB input is working properly.

After checking that the amount of memory on it is suitable for the car radio, older devices may not read flash drives with a large amount of memory. Next, you need to check its operation on another device or insert another USB drive into the unit, with which everything is absolutely fine.

If the flash drive is in working condition, then you need to look for the problem in the music unit. Also, the software very often crashes, which is why the radio requires flashing. It is impossible to insert or remove the disc. Very often this problem lies in the disk loading motor, or rather in the pressure roller, power supply, control and sensors.

Why did the radio, or rather the radio, stop working? With this malfunction, the reason may lie in the chip, tuner or antenna. There are cases when the tuner does not have protection against voltage surges, and either the entire device or only the radio may stop working.

Couplers and spring

In this case, there is no need to go into the engine compartment. This troubleshooting option was proposed by another member of the DRIVE2 community named Roman, who is known there under the nickname Roy04.

First, he dismantled the lining of the central tunnel to gain access to the mechanisms. After examination, it was determined that the sounds were coming from 3 points.

Further, after a test drive with the tunnel removed, it turned out that this was not the cause, but only its consequence. It's all about the design of the Lada Vesta transmission. Due to the design features, when driving at speed III, vibration occurs in the gearshift mechanism, which is directly on the transmission (under the hood). And from behind the scenes the cable vibrates and moves longitudinally.

There are no devices for damping these vibrations, but you can make your own “counterweight”, from scrap materials. To do this, you can use plastic clamps and a spring, for example, from a figure eight carburetor.

With the help of clamps, the rigidity of the components that make sounds is increased, and the spring guarantees tension on the manual transmission handle itself.

As a rule, after such modifications, crackling and clicking noises in the manual transmission of the Lada Vesta disappear.

In mid-2016, AvtoVAZ officially abandoned the use of manual transmissions from the French manufacturer Renault. The reason is the high cost of the “product” and the lack of a base for maintenance.

If domestic gearboxes cost 20–25 thousand rubles, then imported ones reached 45–50 thousand. Obviously, such a rise in price automatically increased the cost of the car as a whole. Perhaps because of this factor, many car enthusiasts preferred a model with a classic automatic or robotic option.

However, there are those who claim that the quality of production of domestic new mechanics (21087) is inadequate. They are ready to pay an additional 30,000 rubles for the French version. Let's compare the Renault JH3 (JR5) manual transmission and the VAZ 21087 manual transmission.

Why are tires noisy?

The noise of winter studded tires is due not only to the presence of metal elements recessed into it, but also to the more rigid material and features of the tread. And if in the snow its sound effects become almost invisible, then on bare asphalt they, on the contrary, are revealed in all their glory.

Summer tires are softer, therefore there is less noise from them, since they go over all the bumps and bumps much smoother.

Good manufacturers do not allow themselves to do this, developing rubber with a non-uniform pattern and tread depth, “sounding” in different frequency ranges, and therefore dissipating their own volume. In addition, there is a special silent tire with a narrower tread, because the wider it is, the louder its sound.

What about the quality of the clutch? Experience shows that too wide tires do not improve vehicle stability, which is why it is better to give preference to the golden mean.

Oil additives: is it possible to do without repairs?

If changing the oil does not help, the gearbox howls, then it is necessary to repair the unit. Many people can talk about adding additives, but this does not help in 80 percent of cases. According to reviews from many motorists, adding additives can only temporarily or not completely muffle the sound, but will not completely solve the problem.

Chemically active substances contained in revitalizant additives form a cermet layer on the surface of worn gears and bearings, which, according to the manufacturer, restores the geometry of the parts and compensates for wear. Of course, if the howl of the gearbox is barely noticeable, it has just begun, then adding, for example, Hado, may well delay the problem with repairing the gearbox. But it may not help if the problem is already old and the wear on the unit components is significant. Then repairs are definitely needed.

About modern Lada cars

Owners of the Lada Granta and Kalina family also complain about the noise of the manual transmission. A large number of complaints occurred in 2022. Whether cases of increased noise and vibration of manual transmissions are covered by warranty was determined by a number of documents. In April 2022, an information letter “On the rattling of the gear shift lever of KP 2181” was issued, and in January 2022 a letter “On the diagnosis of input shaft bearing noise” was issued.

A little later, the plant found out that the howling of the gearbox arose due to poor processing of the teeth of the gears and the main pair. As a result, the design of the manual transmission was modified, and the technological processes of metalworking were changed. As a result, the updated, quieter gearbox entered production in July 2021. According to instrumental monitoring, the noise level in general has been reduced by more than 15 dB (about 25%).

However, this did not completely solve the problem. In February 2022, the heads of the dealer network enterprises again received clarification, this time regarding rattling in the manual transmission control drive of LADA cars, and in October 2022 this document was also released for LADA cars equipped with a cable gear shift drive.

At the moment, increased gearbox noise is also found on modern Lada Vesta, Lada XRAY and the updated Lada Granta family. The defect does not occur as often as before, but it has not been completely resolved.

In 2022, representatives of the plant reported that the howling of the gearbox on Grant is still an unavoidable problem with VAZ gearboxes. They said that with the current production culture, these sounds cannot be dealt with without significant investments in upgrading the machine fleet, and that the current factory equipment does not allow processing gearbox gears with higher accuracy.

It is worth noting that in addition to VAZ transmissions, LADA Vesta, XRAY, and Largus now also use Renault manual transmissions.

Conclusion: Is the howling, hum of the gearbox, as well as vibration of the gearshift knob covered under warranty? This is determined by a specialist from the LADA dealership center, who is guided by a number of documents and GOSTs (we presented some of them in this article).

In certain cases, the causes of acoustic defects are both structural, technological and operational factors, but not defects. If the case is found to be covered by warranty, the problematic parts will be replaced under warranty, free of charge.

Have you encountered a similar problem? Was it possible to resolve the issue within the warranty obligations?

By the way, do you know how they check gearbox noise at AVTOVAZ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-403NDH8WAI

Keywords: Lada Vesta gearbox | gearbox lada xray | gearbox Lada Granta | gearbox Lada Kalina | gearbox Lada Priora | gearbox Lada Largus | 4x4 gearbox | Niva gearbox | universal article | AvtoVAZ order

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If you have a mechanic

Gears shift poorly in a car with a manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a malfunction of the clutch when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic crash. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And finally, the third is excessive wear of the gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears shift poorly:

• Air in the clutch release hydraulic drive or fluid leakage from it. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing failed components of the hydraulic system and pumping it.
• Worn or broken clutch release fork. The part requires replacement or repair.
• Warping (runout greater than 0.5 mm) or too thick new driven disk.
• Failure of the basket (temperature deformation of the pressure plate or its distortion).
• Loss of mobility of the support bearing of the gearbox input shaft (at the end of the crankshaft to which the flywheel is attached).
• Jamming of the clutch driven disc hub on the splines of the gearbox input shaft. To eliminate the defect, clean the splines of the gearbox hub and input shaft. It wouldn’t hurt to lubricate them a little with lithol.
• There is too much free play in the clutch release fork. Its value needs to be clarified with the manufacturer, since it is slightly different for different cars. Until you find out the value of this parameter for your car, set it from 5 to 8 mm. Too little free play of the fork is also undesirable, as it leads to clutch slipping and increased wear of the release bearing.

Excessive wear of synchronizers mainly occurs in those gears that are engaged more often: these are usually first, second and third. The rear one is not included in this list because it does not have a synchronizer. When your gear shifts poorly, and you assume that the reason for this is wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should only have difficulties with this while driving. Secondly, in this case it switches better if you use double squeeze.

For those who don’t know what double squeeze is. To shift to a higher gear: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage the gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for unclear gear shifting

To switch to a lower gear: double squeezing must be combined with re-engaging, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. This is how gears are changed in cars that do not have synchronizers. If the gearbox shifts easier using double squeezing, then the culprit for poor gear shifting is most likely worn synchronizers.

Look for damage or check that it is adjusted correctly. Don't even think about the clutch and synchronizers.

Anatoly Vaisman

Another customer wanted to “shake up the entire gearbox” - they say, I was really getting tired of the mournful singing! Indeed, extraneous noises in a car are always disturbing, especially if you don’t know the reason. But why is any noise coming from the box area attributed only to it? Clients say different things. One is confident in his absolute pitch, another believes his wife, the third refers to the verdict of certain specialists. However, very often the noise does not occur due to the fault of the box!

When is it worth sinning on the box? Probably, you heard how an old truck howls on the rise? “Singing” is characteristic of a gear transmission (especially a heavily worn one) and is caused by the process of meshing the working teeth. The gears, transferring the load from tooth to tooth, oscillate and produce this very song. And its volume depends on the gaps between parts, wear of teeth, viscosity of the oil in the mechanism, etc.

Noises from a working gearbox from teeth engaging, oil mixing, or bearings operating while driving are inaudible. But a loud howl is as serious a reason for diagnosis as the hum of the beginning destruction of tracks, balls or rollers in bearings. If these sounds make their way against the background of many others - from the engine, tires, suspension, then you cannot delay the repair! At any moment, the box can break and jam, which is especially sad at high speed.

A stethoscope will help you listen well to the box, but it’s not easy to do this on the go. When the car is parked with the engine running, the “neutral” in the gearbox must be turned on or the clutch pedal must be depressed. In the first case, the primary and intermediate (if any) shafts with gears, couplings, etc., mounted on them, rotate from the engine, while the secondary one stands. At idle, the rotating parts of the box are not loaded, so powerful torsional vibrations of the crankshaft cause collisions between these loose parts. The larger the gaps, the stronger the knocking. But if you press the clutch, then all the gearbox shafts are in place, there is no noise.

Here are some more examples. Squeeze the clutch while driving, leaving the gear engaged: everything in the box rotates, but from the wheels. Now release the pedal and brake with the engine: the transmission parts will receive reverse loads, and the noise will change. If the difference is noticeable, then there is work for the diagnostician. Let's try to coast with the "neutral" in the box: the wheels turn the unloaded secondary shaft, and the engine turns the primary... Again, if the noise changes tone, you will have to look for the reason.

So, the main thing. If the noise disappears when you press the clutch in a stationary car, it means that it was created by the gearbox. But if the cabin is quiet when the pedal is released, and noise occurs when you press it, then the box has nothing to do with it. Look for the cause in the clutch, most likely in the release bearing.

Although there are exceptions here too. Here's one of them. The owner of the VAZ-2112 was frightened by the grinding noise coming from the clutch housing when pressing the pedal, and he rashly ordered a replacement of the entire assembly. We checked - there is sound. But the pedal seemed too tight - was the fork sticking? Let's say, but you still have to press on the pedal with almost both feet! Let's first look at the clutch cable.

This is where the “replacement of the entire assembly” ended! With the new cable everything worked perfectly, and we studied the old one with interest. It bristled with wires like a ruff!

Finalization

Purpose: install a gasket between the clutch cable and the gearbox fork

Procedure:

1. Remove the clutch cable end from the fork.
2. Unscrew the cable end, having previously measured the length of the free threads.
3. Remove the clutch cable boot.
4. Remove the rubber insert from the cable stop (photo No. 1).
5. Instead, install a round washer made of porous rubber (diameter 32-35 mm, hole 12-13 mm) (photo 2).

1. Cut a piece of rubber measuring 20x70 mm, 2.5-3 mm thick.
2. Glue it (for example, with “Moment” glue) to the plastic cable stop (one turn), secure with electrical tape 1.5 turns.

1. Insert the cable into the bracket on the gearbox and put on the boot.
2. Screw on the tip, leaving a couple of millimeters less free threads on the stud (since the new gasket is thicker than the factory part).
3. Place a 2 mm foam rubber spacer between the cable tip and the fork lever.
4. Adjust the clutch pedal.

As a result: the effect was noticeable immediately. Now the rattling can only be heard with the windows open. After modifying the clutch cable fastening, the car drove more than 15 thousand km, the gearbox noise was within normal limits. Increased vibrations and noise are noticed only at a temperature of -20 o C, when the rubber gaskets become hard. The author has posted sound files (engine acceleration-braking mode at 1500-2000 rpm in 3rd gear), which shows what the noise was from the gearbox before and after modification. Site users can download the file:

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On foreign cars, increased clutch cable vibrations are dealt with using a special weight (Renault Logan cable). You can repeat the foreign experience in a garage, for example, wrap a bitumen ball around the cable sheath (taken from a vibration damper).

Let us remind you that owners of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora cars also encounter clicks in the clutch pedal.

Replacement

Despite the simplicity of this operation, replacing the cables of the Kalina 2 gearbox must proceed strictly according to plan. Any violation not only complicates the process, but also often leads to unpleasant consequences. If you don't put the car on the handbrake or don't support the wheels, it can run over your leg and injure your foot.

If you do not disconnect the battery, careless movement of any metal object may cause a short circuit and damage the wiring or some electrical components. Let's look at how to remove the Kalina transmission cables and then install new parts in their place

Preparation

On the Lada Kalina, replacing gearbox cables begins with choosing a location for this operation. You need a flat, well-lit area without drafts (yard or garage). You will need cables (AvtoVAZ article number (OEM) 219011703113, price 2.5–5.5 thousand rubles per set) and the following tools:

• key to 10;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• puller (open-end wrench size 13, the arms of which are ground with a cone to a thickness of 0.5–1 mm).

Having chosen a site, put the car on the handbrake. If for some reason it does not work, support the rear wheels with wheel chocks or bricks. Otherwise, on Kalina 2, replacing the gearbox cables can lead to serious troubles.

Removal

Replacing Kalina gearbox cables begins with removing these parts. You will have to perform a number of works under the hood and inside the car in very inconvenient places. Therefore, you will need an assistant with dexterous hands who is not afraid of dirty work.

Replacing cables for the Lada Kalina gearbox

Actions under the hood

After placing the machine on the site and opening the hood, proceed as follows:

1. Disconnect both terminals of the battery using a 10 mm wrench, then remove it and place it next to the car.
2. Disconnect the air filter pipe from the engine by loosening the clamp using a Phillips screwdriver.
3. Remove the air filter housing (there is no need to disassemble it as when replacing the filter element). To do this, use your fingers to release its fastenings from their seats on the body.
4. Use a puller to pry up the cable tips so that they come off their pins. If you don’t have a puller, you can do this with a flat-head screwdriver or even your fingers.
5. Pull the cable clamps out of their seats.

After disconnecting the drive elements from the pedals, pull them out through the engine compartment.

Activities in the salon

To ensure that the Lada Kalina 2 gearbox cables are removed normally, do the following in the cabin:

• Remove the handbrake pad, the cover covering the gear selector (plastic tunnel or console with cup holders) and the side ventilation panels next to the tunnel. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver.
• If you cannot remove the console, unscrew the bolts securing the handbrake lever, then move it to the side.
• Unclip the ends of both cables, then remove the clips holding them from their seats.

All that remains is to remove the plastic clip that secures both parts to the car body.

Installation

Replacing Lada Kalina gearbox cables is not only the removal of old ones, but also the installation of new parts, but in the reverse order. Consider a few important points:

• To ensure proper orientation of each cable, insert them with the arrow on the rubber seal facing up.
• If you can’t get them into the cabin, disconnect the oxygen sensor wire (lambda probe), and reconnect after installing new elements.
• If even the removed wire does not help, then hang up the left front side of the car, then support it with a safety stop and push the parts into the interior from under the car.

Having inserted the cables into the interior, perform the same steps as during dismantling, but in reverse order.

Vesta stove blows cold through all air ducts

Regardless of the configuration and type of climate control equipment, cold air from the stove can indicate only a few faults equally:

1. Low antifreeze level. There is nothing easier than checking the level and topping up if necessary, observing the tolerances and brand of liquid. After this, it is better to warm up the car and make sure that the heater starts to warm up. If everything is in order, you don’t have to read further.
2. Air lock in the cooling system. A very common malfunction on Tolyatti cars. As a rule, a plug occurs when the system is depressurized or when antifreeze is replaced using the wrong technology. In this case, the air plug simply prevents the heated antifreeze from reaching the heater radiator. We described in detail how to get rid of an airlock here and here.
3. Dirty cabin filter. Everything is clear here - air simply does not flow to the heater radiator, so there is nothing to blow through the interior. Replacing the cabin filter on a Lada Vesta, unlike a Granta, Priora or Kalina, is much easier. The filter is carefully removed from the cassette, then a new one is inserted.
4. Clogged heater radiator. The symptoms are the same as in the case of an air lock: antifreeze does not get into the heater radiator or the radiator throughput is so small that the liquid does not have time to warm it up.