How to install an additional courtesy light in the interior of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora

January 23, 2019 Lada.Online 37 173 1

Lada Granta, Lada Kalina and Lada Priora are budget cars, so they do not have all the comfort options. For example, in the interior of these models there is no second lamp for rear passengers. However, you can install the ceiling lamp for the rear row with your own hands. Let's talk about all the features of this modification.

Replacing the grant interior lamp

As all owners of the Lada Granta in the “Standard” and “Norma” trim levels know, standard interior lighting is extremely scarce. There is only one courtesy lamp, it is located in the driver and front passenger area, and in addition, it has one very dim lamp, which is barely enough for the front passengers, and is completely lacking for the rear passengers. This situation did not suit me, as a result of which I decided to replace the standard lampshade with a more advanced one. The Lada Kalina “Lux” lamp was chosen as an alternative. This lampshade is similar in size and seating to the standard Granta lampshade, but has additional lighting sections. However, in its electrical part the lampshade is only partially compatible with Granta. The main contact lines are the same, but the shape of the connector and its pinout are different. Another problem is the low brightness of the standard lamp lighting technology. These shortcomings prompted me to lightly upgrade the lampshade before installing it.

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At the preparatory stage, incandescent lamps were replaced with bright diodes, as well as the connector was modernized for compatibility with the standard Granta wiring. Factory diodes were used, on plates, already with soldered resistances, designed for 12V power supply. Connection to standard locations was made using the included adapters for various sockets. After replacing the diodes, we begin to work with the connector.

First, we determine which wire is responsible for what. If your connector looks the same, there is a 95% chance that the red wire will be a common plus, the black wire will be a minus of the satellite lamps, as well as a minus of the central section when the mode selector is switched to constant light mode. The green wire will be the minus of the central section when the mode selector is switched to glow mode when the doors are opened. Next, we completely disassemble the connector. To do this, take a long time and carefully break the plastic part so as not to touch the tongues of the contact plates. These plates are wider than Grant's sockets and will not fit into them. To solve this problem, I took contact plates from old radio equipment, of a suitable size, and soldered them to the plates of the Kalinovsky lampshade.

Reason #3: Oxidized contact

There are many contacts in the internal lighting circuits. But above all, the contacts inside the ceiling and the door limit switches are susceptible to oxidation. Limit switches on many Russian cars very often oxidize, since they do not have a rubber casing.

Identifying an oxidized contact is very simple: just look at it. Remove the cover, disassemble it and make sure the contacts are clean. If oxides are present, clean them with a small flathead screwdriver or fine sandpaper. Do the same with the limit switches - each of these switches must be removed and checked. Before removing the limit switches, it is better to disconnect the battery, because very often when removing the positive wire of the switch, it shorts to the housing.

Installation of LED strip

Before installing footwell lights in a car with your own hands, you should decide where you will attach the tape itself.

To illuminate the footwell area, it can be installed below the seats, along the perimeter of the lower part of the front seats, under the instrument panel and under the glove compartment. It all depends on your imagination. Remember, when choosing a place for installation, you should take into account that the installed lighting should be directed towards the floor.

After choosing a location, measure and cut a piece of tape of the required size. Do not forget that it may not be cut in all places. Cut only in areas where solder contacts are located. Therefore, having measured what length you need, it is better to take a little less than vice versa, so that later there is no sagging during fastening.

After cutting, solder a wire to the edges of the tape and try to connect it to a power source. If it works, isolate the solder joints. To do this, put a heat-shrinkable tube over the joint, heat it with a soldering iron or even with a lighter. After insulation, attach the tape to the selected location using an adhesive layer, glue, or even regular silicone ties.

Installation

1. We choose a place to mount the lampshade in the rear of the car. We find the stiffener by pressing on the ceiling trim. For convenience, you can make a fastening template from masking tape, which we paste onto the ceiling trim in the place where the lampshade will be placed.
2. We make a hole in the ceiling trim according to the template using a utility knife.
3. We make holes in the stiffener with a drill and secure the lamp frame with screws.
4. Snap the lampshade into the frame.

Connection

All the necessary contacts for connecting an additional lamp are in the front lamp. To install the wires, it is not at all necessary to remove the roof trim; just bend it slightly from the edge or move it slightly out of the door seal.

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Lada Priora front lamp diagram:

1. far left (red) – “mass”
2. central (white) – +12V
3. far right (black) – ground (door switches)

Diagram of the front lamp of Lada Granta (pre-style) and Lada Kalina:

1. far left (black) – “mass”
2. central (green) – “ground” (door switches)
3. far right (red) – +12V

Diagram of the front lamp with ERA-GLONASS for Lada Granta FL:

• 11 and 14 – +12V appears after turning on the main relay (turning on the ignition, opening the doors). The power goes out 2-5 minutes after removing the ignition key.
• 15 – “mass”.
• 17 – “ground” (door limit switches), which appears for a while when the doors are opened.

The result of such a connection in the video:

Attention!

Wire colors may vary depending on vehicle equipment. Focus on the contact numbers and check the wiring with a multimeter.

FakeHeader

Comments 14

Their boards are good, not like those in the store.

I just don’t understand - in the mode where the lamp lights up for 30 seconds when any door is opened - I have this large board, the LEDs on it glow a little when all the doors are closed... it seems as if there is a current leak somewhere... or through what -the end... or through the Starline alarm wiring... it’s not clear yet... I’ll look. and in the “off” mode everything is fine. The light from the new LED boards is very pleasing, comfortable and bright. although I don’t often drive in the dark - but so be it)))

Interior lighting Lada Granta

The interior lighting of the Lada Granta may not suit the car owner for a number of reasons, for example, dim light or the design is not to one’s taste. In this case, you can do something drastic and replace the Granta interior lamp with a Kalinovsky one .

The Kalinovsky interior lighting lamp has catalog number 1118-3714010. To complete the work you will need: female terminals (3 pcs), pliers, heat shrink tubing and a Phillips screwdriver.

Depending on the configuration of the Lada Granta, different types of lighting lamps are installed in the car interior. Read the instructions in case you need to modify or replace the Granta's interior lighting .

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Tools required: flathead and Phillips screwdrivers. Before starting work, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Replacing a single interior lamp

1. Pry off the lampshade with a flat screwdriver.

2. Remove the interior lamp from the housing.

3. Disconnect the wires by squeezing the block.

1. Remove the two screws securing the interior lamp housing.

3. Installation of the Granta interior light is carried out in the reverse order.

Replacing the interior lamp with separate lighting

1. Press the plastic lock on the interior lighting unit cover.

2. Remove the lamp cover.

3. Remove two fastening screws.

4. Disconnect the connectors from the wires and remove the lamp housing.

To disassemble the lampshade, you should:

1. Disconnect the terminals with wires from the terminals of the faulty switch.

2. Press the plastic latches of the switch.

3. Remove the fasteners from the housing.

Assembling the interior lighting lamp is carried out in the reverse order.

Connection and installation of the Kalina interior lamp in Grantu

We remove the Grant interior lamp and cut off the connector. The pinout of the wires is as follows:

· White with red is a common plus.

· Black—constant mass.

· Brown and green - mass from limit switches.

Pinout of wires from the Kalina interior lamp:

· Black is a permanent minus.

· Green - mass from limit switches.

We crimp the terminals and put on the heat shrink tube. We connect according to the following diagram:

· We connect white and red to red from the lampshade.

· Brown with green to green.

· Black with black.

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We install the Kalina interior lighting lamp in place and check its operation.

Installation of LEDs in the interior lamp of Kalina

You can’t just replace lamps with LEDs, because the polarity is wrong. In order for everything to work out, you only need a relay for closing and a block for it. We connect two more to the white-red wire (we connect one to the relay winding, the other to one of the terminals). Take a brown and green wire and cut off a piece of wire with a terminal. We connect this piece to the second contact of the relay, and the wire itself to the free contact of the winding. The relay can be placed between the roof and the interior trim. We connect it all to the lampshade like this:

· White with red - to black in the lampshade.

· Brown with green - to green.

· Black to red.

If you do, try to do it in the lampshade so as not to cut the wires to the block.

Refinement of the interior lighting lamp Grants

Front interior lamp in Lada Granta

The lighting is not bright enough; reading in such lighting is not comfortable. Let's look at how easy it is to make a small tuning of the interior lamp, the lighting of which will be several times brighter.

The easiest way to modify the interior light in Grant is to replace the lamp with an LED one. However, this will not make the lampshade shine any brighter, if only by a little bit. In order not to resort to alterations and increase the brightness of the flashlight many times over, it is enough to find LED modules (ELF 5SMD, 12V, IP67). They are an assembly of several super-bright diodes, and are used to illuminate advertising boxes and three-dimensional letters (91r/piece).

Installing LED modules in the Granta interior lamp does not cause any problems. We remove the lampshade, then insert the modules into its side sections, sliding them under the legs of the standard light bulb. In the middle section you will have to trim the plastic ear clips a little. There is no need to glue, solder or drill anything.

Connecting LED modules is also simple. We wind the power wire around the contacts of the light bulb. As a result, the consumption of each module of four diodes is about 0.5 watts. The light output from the entire lampshade is like that of a powerful energy-saving light bulb. Everything is simple, effective and inexpensive.

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Installation of an additional lampshade from Priora in the interior of the Lada Granta

I've been wanting to do this for a long time... I couldn't find the frame for the Priora lamp. I wanted to order it on the Internet for 900 rubles, but decided that it was expensive. And recently I went to the store, asked for this frame, and they gave it to me for only 180 rubles. I used the standard lamp, I already had it, because... I put a viburnum in front. I set the lamp to 10 watts - it shines normally, just what I need. I advise everyone to install it. I took the power from the main lampshade. I cut the ceiling with a utility knife.

cut a hole in the ceiling, right under the stiffener, stretch a three-core wire from the central lamp

screw the frame from the Priora... using self-tapping screws to the roof reinforcement, carefully so as not to pierce the roof right through

connect the wires to the lampshade and insert it into the frame

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Reason #2: Blown fuse

The second reason your interior lights may not work is a blown fuse. Almost always, interior lighting “shares” a fuse with other devices. Therefore, if, for example, the clock or radio stops working along with the light, the likelihood of a fuse blowing is extremely high.

Find the correct fuse in the correct block and make sure it is not damaged. If the fuse does blow, it is likely due to a short circuit. Therefore, it is not a fact that after installing a new fuse everything will work. It is quite possible that it will immediately catch fire. If this happens, then there is definitely a short circuit. You need to know how to find a short circuit in a car.

However, the fuse does not always blow due to a “short circuit”. His sweater can only be old (shabby) or made from poor quality material.

Features of interior lighting fixtures

In the minimum configuration, Kalina's interior lighting is represented by one lamp located on the ceiling in the front of the car. It gives a soft yellow light, but according to car enthusiasts, it is not enough.

More equipped versions have two built-in lamps: one in front, the second above the rear seat. Lighting in luxury versions has been improved: some halogen lamps have been replaced with LED lamps.

The front courtesy light in the Kalina's cabin, located above the rearview mirror, has a control unit. It consists of a right lamp for individual lighting, activated by a key, a left lamp, activated by a key, a lamp and a three-position switch that determines the interior lighting mode. When the switch is set to the far left position, the lamp lights up continuously until it is turned off. In the middle position of the three-way switch, the lamp is de-energized, and when switched to the extreme right position, the light automatically turns on when any of the car doors is opened and turns off when all doors are closed with the ignition on.

How to determine the malfunction?

Diagnostics of voltage in electrical wiring is carried out as follows:

1. First, you will need a test lamp with wires connected to it. One of them is connected to the negative of the battery or the mass of the vehicle, that is, the body. And the second probe should be connected to the section of the electrical circuit being diagnosed. In this case, it is desirable that the connection point be as close as possible to the battery or safety device.
2. If after connection the light starts to light up, this indicates that there is voltage in the circuit. In particular, we are talking about the area between the connection and the battery.
3. The remaining components of the electrical circuit are diagnosed in a similar manner. When it happens that the light bulb does not light up and there is no voltage, this indicates that the faulty source is located between this point and the last one where the voltage was. As practice shows, wiring problems are often associated with poor connections, so when problems are detected, the first thing you need to do is check the contacts. Also remember that in some sections of the wiring there is voltage in the circuit only when the ignition key is turned.

An equally important point is to find a short circuit; this problem is relevant for many vehicles, including Grant. One way to find the short circuit point is to dismantle the safety element and then connect a test lamp or tester to its socket.

All other components in this circuit must be turned off, that is, there should be no voltage in it. Try moving the wires in different directions, while watching the control - if it starts to burn, then somewhere in the area one of the contacts is closing. Most likely, the reason lies in the rubbing of the insulation (the author of the video is the Kroom&coTV channel).

As for diagnosing grounding reliability, it is carried out as follows:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery terminals, then connect one of the probes of the diagnostic tester (multimeter) or a warning lamp to the body of the Lada Granta.
2. The second probe should then be connected to the connection or ground point you want to test.
3. If, as a result of the connection, the lamp lights up, this indicates that everything is normal with the grounding, you can begin diagnosing other circuits.

And one more point that should be discussed in more detail is diagnosing the integrity of the wiring. This procedure is carried out in order to determine whether there is a break in the wiring or not.

Integrity check is done like this:

1. First you need to turn off the voltage from the wiring and diagnose the integrity using a test light and a connected power source.
2. Next, you need to connect the wiring from the light source to the ends of the electrical circuit being diagnosed, or one probe to the positive, and the second to the car body. If the control lights up after connection, this will indicate that there are no breaks in the circuit. If the lamp does not light up, then most likely there is a break in the circuit.
3. In a similar way, you can check the functionality of the switch by connecting a test lamp to its terminals.
4. After the switch is activated, the control should light up.

Trunk light without lights on, blinking additional stop ala F1

Good morning, afternoon, evening or night to everyone who has looked into this BZ!

It so happened that I didn’t really use the trunk (especially in the dark)... And accordingly, there was no need for independent lighting. But yesterday: I was returning from the store late at night, and while unloading bags in a completely dark courtyard, in the rain, the lack of lighting infuriated me so much that measures were already taken today to eliminate this oversight by AvtoVAZ.

I decided to combine 2 innovations and add a blinking additional stop ala F1.

3 clips, and Isofix plugs needed to be removed... well, I also removed the side plastic stands, for convenience.

With the blinking additional stop everything is simple, the connector is installed in the connector.

You can only confuse the polarity with a fool... since the key is used on the plugs.

We've sorted out one device! I can’t show the result in the photo, but I’ll take a video later and add it... I added a video!

Now trunk lighting! This required a little ingenuity... Using a multimeter, it was determined that +12 appears only with dimensions, and the minus is interrupted by a limit switch when the trunk lid is closed. Conclusion: you need a permanent plus, and you can get it very close, from the power cable of the amplifier for the subwoofer...

Such a product was made. 2 pieces of wire, a 5A fuse, a short end with a tip for the amplifier, a long end for the lampshade (later redone locally and attached to the Wago for additional lighting).

Attention: do not forget about safety precautions and turn off the fuse under the hood!

And the original wire with +12 from the dimensions is insulated with white electrical tape.

Actually, that's all! The light in the trunk now turns on when it is opened, regardless of whether the dimensions are on. The additional stop also now blinks when you press the brake and a little later lights up permanently. Thanks for your attention =)

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