VAZ 2114: replacing the fuel pump (injector, 8 valves) - instructions with photos and videos

It's no secret that you can't get far in a car without gasoline. Therefore, for the engine to operate, it is simply necessary that the entire fuel system functions in optimal mode.

In many ways, the fuel pump is responsible for supplying fuel to the engine, which the VAZ 2114 model is not without, of course. To solve a problem with a faulty fuel pump, you need to make sure it is at fault.

Removing, installing and replacing the fuel pump

The first thing to keep in mind is that all work on the car’s fuel system must be carried out with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected. It would also be a good idea to do this with an empty fuel tank, especially since with the fuel module removed it becomes possible to clean the bottom of the gas tank from sediment.

The second thing it is advisable to do is to remove the pressure inside the fuel lines so as not to get a stream of gasoline in your face or into the interior of the car. This can be done using a measuring nipple on the fuel rail and a thin screwdriver.

To work you should prepare:

• curved and flat screwdrivers
• key for 17
• head for 7
• rags

Sequence of work

1. Raise the rear sofa.

2. We unscrew the two screws that hold the cover that blocks access to the fuel module, and disconnect the electrical connector from it.

3. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the two fuel lines connected to the pump, being careful not to lose the O-rings, and move them to the sides.

4. Newer models have clips on the pump; to remove them, press them and pull the tubes towards you.

5. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the 8 nuts that secure the pressure plate in a circle, holding the entire fuel module.
6. Carefully remove it through the hole in the gas tank, having first released the fuel level sensor float.

If there is a new assembled module in stock, install it in the reverse order. If it is necessary to replace individual components: the fuel pump itself, the level sensor or the primary filter mesh, we do this by disassembling the fuel module housing and removing the corresponding parts.

This procedure is unlikely to cause any difficulties - everything is quite obvious.

For a new type of fuel pump, you need a 10mm socket and a ratchet, similarly unscrew the ring in a circle and press out the fuel line clamps.

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Using a pressure gauge

If in the event of a malfunction with the electrical supply of the fuel pump, everything is clear - either it works or not, then mechanical wear is more difficult to determine. There are several techniques for this.

You can estimate the fuel pressure if you unscrew the fuel rail plug and drain gasoline from the spool. There should be a powerful jet. Next, we unscrew the spool itself and connect a pressure gauge, preferably a fuel one, but you can also use one that measures the air pressure in the tires. Turn on the ignition and see how much the pump has pumped. It must be at least 280 kPa, on some models 380 - 400 kPa. To make it clearer, this is 3.8 - 4 kgf/cm2.

Models of fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115 cars

VAZ 2114/2115 cars are equipped with 1.5 cm3 and 1.6 cm3 gasoline engines with a distributed injection system. A submersible electric fuel pump is used to supply fuel. It is part of the fuel module installed at the top of the gas tank (under the rear seat). In addition to the pump, the module includes a fuel accumulator (cup), a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor with a float.

To supply fuel in VAZ 2114/2115 cars, a submersible electric fuel pump is used

The VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump is a conventional DC electric motor in a sealed housing with a one-way valve at the outlet. An impeller of a special shape is located on the electric motor shaft. Its rotation ensures the fuel supply.

The fuel module includes a fuel pump, a fuel accumulator, a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor

The fuel pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The electrical circuit of the pump, protected by a fuse, is closed using a separate relay.

Electric fuel pumps for VAZ cars are produced by both domestic (Utes, SAAZ, Pekar) and foreign companies. The latest modifications of the VAZ 2114/2115 are equipped with BOSH pumps, which are distinguished by their high reliability, long service life and relatively low price.

Design of the electric fuel pump VAZ 2114/2115

Catalog numbers of standard fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115:

• 2112–1139009–12 — for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm3;
• 2112–1139009–01 — for engines with a volume of 1.6 cm3;
• 580453453 (BOSH) - for engines with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 cm3.

These models differ in operating pressure. The former are capable of creating a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa in the fuel system, the latter - 3.7–3.9 kPa. BOSH fuel pumps are rated at 3.5 kPa.

Fuse

Fuse 15 A

One of the final stages of checking a malfunctioning fuel pump is its fuse. Like the relay, the fuse can be seen from the inside. Or you can climb in from the outside, through the hood. Under the hood, closer to the windshield, there will be a dark box, right on the electronic control unit. You need to open it and find the topmost fuse with a current of 15 A and the English inscription fuel pump. We take it out and look at the insides: the contact is not damaged - the fuse is alive. The contact is damaged (blown) - you need to install a new fuse. As with the price of the relay issue, buying and replacing a fuse will not be a big waste of money and time.

Not every master's hands grow from the right place. For this reason. The reason that the fuel pump does not pump can be simple stupid shortcomings of simple tuning.

For example, the alarm was installed in such a way that all the contacts were mixed up, and power simply does not go to the fuel pump. Not because the alarm should not be on the car, or the wiring system is acting up, it’s just that the person who installed it didn’t have enough brains and practice. Check all connections carefully if you decide to add some style to your little one.

Or anti-theft. The button is placed in such a way that it interrupts the integrity of the fuel pump ground contact system, and almost always fails. By the way, if you have such a lotion, I don’t think it will be very effective in the absence of a signal. And if there is a signaling system, then anti-theft is not needed at all.

In any case, remember: in any situation where a VAZ breaks down, the point is not that it is a VAZ, and it was made poorly. It’s just that the Russian auto industry is a little more delicate than the foreign one, it requires a little more attention and your ingenuity.

Signs of breakdown

There are several situations in which the pump or its components can be at fault. This will definitely have to be checked. Otherwise, you can spend a lot of money buying and installing a new fuel pump, but in the end it turns out that the problem is completely different.

1. The engine will not start. This is not a clear sign of problems with the pump, but still. Therefore, first check the condition of the spark plugs, the presence of a spark, and the absence of traces of oil on them. Also check the electronic control unit.
2. Pressure inside the fuel system. If the pump is operating normally, it will create a pressure of 3.2 bar. Depending on the type of engine in your VAZ 2114, the characteristics may differ slightly: For a 1.5-liter engine, the optimal values ​​are 285-325 kPa;
3. For a 1.6-liter engine, these characteristics in optimal operating mode will range from 375 to 390 kPa.

New and old coarse filter

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Many people purchase the entire fuel module assembly at once, which includes a filter, sensor, float, intake chamber and the pump itself. Such a purchase will cost approximately 3,000 rubles. It is much more profitable and practical to buy a separate pump, which costs up to 1000 rubles. This is due to the fact that when the pump fails, the remaining elements almost always remain intact and are fully suitable for further use.

Wiring contacts

The wiring system goes to the fuel pump in the number of three wires: positive, negative and gasoline level indicator. The cause of a fuel pump failure may be a simple power failure in the wiring. If everything is normal with the pressure, then we check the contacts.

We take a simple 12 V light bulb and attach its wires to the positive and negative contacts on the external connector of the fuel pump, respectively. We turn the ignition: the light blinks, there is contact. Then you need to dig deeper - look at internal contacts.

An external problem with the wiring if the light does not light up: alternately connect the positive and negative contacts removed from the fuel pump connector to the ground of the fuel pump, and then to the snout. Negative contact on ground, turn on the ignition, the light blinks - the contact is not working, the light does not blink - the positive contact is not working. When the contact is on the snout and the light comes on, the wire is damaged in the area from the fuel pump to the snout.

What is a fuel pump and why is it needed?

Fuel pump diagram

The gasoline pump serves to ensure continuous and uninterrupted fuel supply to the engine during operation. In most modern car models, it is located inside the gas tank, so access to it is not so obvious and can be difficult.

In VAZ cars, under the rear seat you can find a rectangular hatch, under which you can access the fuel pump. The fuel module kit also includes: a fuel level sensor with a float and a coarse filter - mesh. Two fuel lines are connected to the fuel pump:

feeder, from which the fuel rail with injectors is fed through a fine filter;

reverse, returning fuel through a pressure regulator, ensuring its constancy in the engine power system.

Pressure system

The gasoline pump creates pressure in the fuel rail for normal gasoline supply functionality. Let's measure the pressure and we'll understand a lot right away.

Normal parameters of atmospheres in the system are as follows:

• Idle – 2.5
• Ignition – from 3
• Without pressure regulator tube – 3.3
• With pinched drain – 7
• We press on the gas - from 3 to 2.5.

We will measure in these five states with a pressure gauge with a small range of atmospheres (up to 7, to reduce the error to a minimum). Under the hood we found a pressure fitting (just unscrew the cap in advance), attached a pressure gauge (hose) to the fitting and off we went. The ignition is turned on, the pressure gauge is zero: the fuel pressure regulator is broken. We press on the gas, the pressure gauge goes to zero: the fuel pump itself is broken (now you can do some shopping at a spare parts store). There may still be a situation. When the pressure gauge needle lazily rises, look at the condition of the fuel filter.

By the way, if you don’t have a pressure gauge, it’s sad and sad, because it’s an expensive pleasure. Similar diagnostics in the service will cost half as much.

Selecting and replacing the fuel pump

Russian car owners prefer BOSH fuel pumps. You should only buy a new pump in specialized stores. The original product must be packaged in thick plastic film filled with special preservative oil. At the same time, a branded BOSH pump cannot cost less than 2 thousand rubles.

To replace the electric fuel pump on a VAZ 2114/2115 you will need:

• screwdriver with Phillips bit;
• thin slotted screwdriver;
• key or head 7;
• key to 10;
• key to 17.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Open the gas tank cap to reduce the pressure in it.
3. Remove the rear seat cushion and peel back the carpet and sound insulation.

   The fuel module hatch is located under the rear seat

4. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the fuel module hatch and remove it.
5. Disconnect the power connector.

   Disconnecting the electrical connector from the fuel module

6. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nuts on the fuel pipes. We disconnect the tubes from the fittings and move them apart.

   Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts on the fuel pipes

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7. Using a 7 socket, unscrew the eight nuts securing the fuel module cover.

   Using a socket 7, unscrew the eight nuts securing the module cover

8. Remove the pressure ring and remove the fuel module.

   Removing the fuel module from the gas tank

9. Use a thin slotted screwdriver to disconnect the coarse fuel filter.
10. Using the same screwdriver, remove the retaining rings on the glass guides.

    Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining rings from the guides

11. Disconnect the fuel pipes from the cap fittings.

    Fuel pipes will be easier to disconnect if they are heated

12. Disconnect the electrical connector.
13. Remove the glass from the guides.

    After disconnecting the tubes and wires, remove the glass from the guides

14. Using a slotted screwdriver, move the latches securing the electric fuel pump to the sides and remove it.

    To remove the fuel pump, you need to move the latches apart

15. Install a new pump.
16. Repeat all operations in reverse order.

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If, when disassembling the fuel module, it is discovered that the coarse filter is clogged, it should be replaced. The fuel level sensor with a float must also be replaced if the readings on the front panel do not correspond to reality.

Thus, diagnosing and replacing the fuel pump of a VAZ 2114/2115 car is quite simple. And in order for the pump to serve for a long time, always refuel only with high-quality gasoline.

Checking the electrical circuit

At the beginning of the diagnosis, you should check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. To do this you will need:

1. car tester (multimeter);
2. crosshead screwdriver;
3. two pieces of wire about 2 m long.

Checking the electrical circuit is carried out in the following order:

• Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. When the key is in the first position, a click should be heard, characteristic of turning on the relay, followed by a slight whirring of the pump electric motor. If there is no click, the relay is faulty or is not receiving power. If there is a click, but no buzzing, the wiring coming from the relay or the pump motor itself is faulty.
• Under the glove compartment, find an additional mounting block consisting of three relays and three fuses. The pump relay is located in the middle, and the fuse is located to the left of it. Remove the fuse from its socket, test it with a multimeter, and if the result is negative, replace it. When replacing the fuse, please note that it is rated for a maximum of 15 A.

The relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114/2115 are located in the mounting block under the glove compartment.

• Set your multimeter to voltmeter mode. Connect one probe of the device to the relay terminal to which the pink wire fits, and the second to the car body. Turn on the ignition. The device should show the on-board network voltage in the range of 11.7–12.4 V. If there is no voltage, the problem may be a broken wiring or a malfunction of the ignition contact group. In this case, it is better to contact an auto electrician. If power is supplied, check that the relay is working. With the ignition on, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to close the contacts to which the pink and gray wires go. This closes the circuit bypassing the relay. If the fuel pump works, replace the relay.
• Be sure to check the connection of the pump's negative wire to ground. Often it is the lack of “ground” that causes interruptions in the operation of the fuel pump. Remove the plastic trim from the center console near the parking brake handle. Under it there is a “negative” wire of the pump, screwed to the body with a self-tapping screw. Unscrew it, clean the contacts, screw it back and repeat the test.

The ground wires of the fuel pump are attached to the body with a self-tapping screw

• Then check the fuel module. Remove the rear seat, peel back the carpet and sound insulation. Unscrew the two screws securing the gas tank flap and disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel module cover. Using two wires, supply power to the pump directly from the battery. If the pump works, the wiring is faulty; if it doesn’t work, the pump itself is faulty.

Design Features

A novice car enthusiast is recommended to study the operation of an injection engine. The injector includes a system that injects gasoline. After familiarizing yourself with the device, you won’t have to contact a service center for minor problems, but rather fix them at home yourself. The fuel supply is considered distributional, because gasoline is injected into each cylinder using a specific injector.

The VAZ 2115 is based on the VAZ 21099 model. In the new car, unlike the previous one, the shape of the hood, rear and front bumpers, a new configuration of the front wings, as well as improved aerodynamics of the body have changed. A spoiler was placed on the trunk lid - a wing. The exterior decoration was decorated with plastic elements, since metal ones were corroded by corrosion. For added safety, the model was supplemented with a brake signal and rear lighting.

Thanks to the electronically controlled injection power unit located under the hood, the electrical circuit of the VAZ 2115 differs significantly from the 99 modification.

The supporting structure of the car body is welded, metal, integral. The drive is front transverse. It has a 5-speed gearbox and the front wheels are connected to the drive. The engine has a capacity of 1.5 liters and is a four-cylinder, petrol, four-stroke and in-line. Distributive fuel injection systems are controlled electronically.

Under the rear seats, behind the bottom, there is a fuel tank. Gasoline is supplied from the gasoline pump located in it. The pressure level in it should not fall below 3.2 bar.

Hidden interior sub-cabinet wiring connects the located equipment. The mounting block is placed in the engine compartment. It consists of powerful consumers: wipers, high beam headlights, starter. All of them are connected to the on-board network using an intermediate relay.

Motor

Fuel pump motor VAZ 2114

We checked the pressure and wiring, everything works like clockwork, but the engine stalls. The fuel pump may not pump due to a breakdown of the motor - the main element that drives fuel. We check its functionality with the same light bulb: attach its wires to any terminal of the motor, turn the ignition. The lamp blinked - it was time to throw out the motor. And again, run to the store for a brand new motor.

The terminals may oxidize and not make contact, as a result of which the fuel pump will not pump. The motor in this case may be normal. And the terminals just need cleaning (possibly re-soldering). There is an opinion that the terminals are oxidized due to low-quality fuel (the octane number does not match the declared one).