Which thermostat is better for VAZ 2114
FAQ How to choose a thermostat, and which thermostat to buy.
How to choose a thermostat, and which thermostat to buy.
Buying a thermostat
- this is a question even more pressing than its verification. And you can get burned when choosing a thermostat as easily as you would get burned on a hot kettle.
The parts seller says:
There is no point in lying to our clients, showing what kind of specialists we are and how we understand our business. Therefore, keep it clean.
When choosing a thermostat, 70 percent of drivers say: “give me the cheapest one.” Only the remaining 30 percent tries to touch the rubber seals, press on the valve and pull the rod until it sticks. The difference between the two halves is big. If the other half is still somehow trying to choose a quality item, but out of ignorance is trying to push through a rod curled into a spring, which reacts only to changes in temperature, and then asks why it doesn’t work, then there is no point in explaining anything to the other half and all that remains is to send a person to the fair, where he is more welcome than ever.
Therefore, the remaining 30% half may benefit from the following information.
What to pay attention to when purchasing:
The first, and perhaps the last, is the metal of the thermostat housing. The main problem is corrosion. Buy a Chinese thermostat once and see how within a year it is covered with rust, and the shine that looked like stainless steel turns out to be not stainless steel at all. Choose a thermostat with a stainless steel or brass body. These thermostats will not corrode for many years.
There are no other selection criteria anymore. Not a single hologram or sticker on the packaging of the most expensive thermostat says anything other than that it exists. Do not press the valve. It will only work at the set temperature. This is not a spring. This is a rod made of a special material that is curled in a spiral.
You won’t be able to check the thermostat for functionality at the store counter. Therefore, check it before installing it in hot water, at least for smooth opening and closing. Thus, make sure that the thermostat rod does not jam and that everything is in order with it.
It happens that the engine overheats or, conversely, in winter it is impossible to warm up the car interior to normal temperature. All these are consequences of a malfunction of the thermostat, which is responsible for the circulation of antifreeze in the engine cooling system.
The thermostat ensures quick warm-up of the car at low temperatures and also prevents the engine from overheating. A thermostat malfunction can be detected by looking at the instrument panel. The coolant temperature sensor arrow will be in the red, unacceptable zone. In winter, you may notice that the car interior does not warm up well.
In the first case, the thermostat is always closed and the coolant circulates in a small circle. In this case, only a small part of the heat from the engine is “thrown out” into the environment. Therefore, the engine may overheat. In the second case, the thermostat is constantly open and the engine does not have enough of its own heat to warm up to operating temperature. Increased fuel consumption is possible here.
If you suspect that the thermostat is faulty, then you should remove it. First, drain the coolant and then remove the thermostat. In different models, the thermostat is removed in different ways, so we will not dwell on this.
So, the thermostat has been removed. Now you need to remove all scale and dirt from it and clean the small hole in the valve. The thermostat is checked as follows. We put some container with water (for example, a saucepan) on the electric stove and heat it (we also need a thermometer with a scale of more than 100 degrees). The thermostat must be checked according to two criteria: valve opening moment and dimensions. The first criterion is the temperature at which the thermostat valve opens. Most often, the temperature is indicated on the thermostat housing and ranges from approximately 81-85 degrees (VAZ) to 92-93 (some foreign cars, as well as thermostats of modern domestic engines).
Sometimes you can check the thermostat by size: before heating and after. Use a caliper - measure the distances between two points before and after heating. Most often, the difference in distances should not be less than 7 mm.
When the thermostat has cooled down, you need to check whether the valve is completely closed. If a malfunction is detected, the thermostat can only be replaced; it cannot be repaired.
How to choose a good thermostat?
When purchasing a new part, you should pay attention to the material from which its body is made. Almost all thermostats produced in China are made of metals that are visually similar to stainless steel, but, unfortunately, are not. Confidently walk past them and choose a mechanism that is made of high-quality brass or stainless steel. Only in this case will it serve you for a very long time, without becoming rusty after just a few months of use.
By and large, there are no other indicators for choosing a thermostat correctly. The presence of any colorful sticker or shiny hologram on the mechanism does not mean anything significant. You won’t be able to check the thermostat for functionality directly in a car dealership, which means choose products made of brass and stainless steel from trusted companies, and you definitely won’t go wrong.
We choose which thermostat is better to install on the injection 8 valve VAZ-2114
The engine temperature affects not only the temperature of the heater, and this, unfortunately, is what worries the owners of Togliatti cars primarily. This does not speak of their shortsightedness, but of the imperfection of the heater, but today we are not talking about it. The temperature regime of the engine depends on one simple but very important device called a thermostat . When we learn more about the modifications of VAZ devices, the question of which thermostat is better to install on the injection VAZ-2114 will automatically disappear.
Injection thermostat VAZ 2114 8 class: choosing the best and replacing it yourself
The reliability of any injection engine primarily depends on its design. Nevertheless, VAZ 2114 injection engines with 8 valves often suffer from non-compliance with the temperature conditions of the engine. The thermostat is exactly the device that should ensure that the engine warms up evenly and does not overheat under high loads. How to choose the right thermostat for the VAZ 2114, which one is better not to install, how to replace it, we will find out right now.
Why do you need a thermostat?
We will not organize courses on eliminating automotive illiteracy, because every self-respecting driver knows that the thermostat directs the coolant either in a large circle (including the engine cooling radiator) or in a small circle (bypassing the radiator).
Thermostat for VAZ-2114 injector
The operating algorithm of the device depends on the thermodynamic valve, which closes one pipe in the thermostat and opens the other. Before changing the thermostat, it must be checked.
To refresh your memory of its structure, we have provided a diagram of the VAZ-2114 thermostat and attached it below.
Scheme of operation of the cooling system (thermostat)
As can be seen from the diagram, this is a simple device with a thermal valve, which, when a certain temperature is reached, is activated, thus directing the antifreeze in a small or large circle.
In most cases, it has three pipes - one inlet and two outlet . through which the coolant flows either directly from the pump into the heater and further through the cooling system, or into the radiator if its temperature has reached the required value. It is the temperature value at which the device operates that determines the use of the thermostat on a particular VAZ model, although there are still some nuances that specifically concern the VAZ-2114 injector.
Video about the operating principle
Types of thermostats and rules for their selection
Having decided to replace the thermostatic device, many drivers are wondering whether to install an imported or domestic thermostat on a VAZ 2114, which one is better and which company to give preference to.
In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to give an absolutely accurate answer, because everyone chooses the appropriate spare parts themselves, based on the issue of availability, price and other factors.
Let's say that we can distinguish the following 3 groups of thermostats that are suitable for the 14th and which can be found in regular car stores:
- Domestic. Original thermostats for 2114 are very easy to find on sale, but it is worth remembering that their quality leaves much to be desired - they either fail ahead of schedule (25,000 km) or often jam, which can lead to overheating of the engine on the road. That is why it is not recommended to purchase them as a replacement.
- Chinese. They may have an attractive appearance and a shiny body, but their overall quality is noticeably worse than domestic options. That is why you can purchase Chinese thermostats only if there is nothing else left.
- Foreign. Despite the slightly higher cost, they have much better quality of workmanship, which is why preference should be given to them.
Thermostat LUZAR
According to reviews from the owners of the 14th, the best branded thermostats, which also have a budget price, are models from Wahler, Gates and Vernet. Their service life often exceeds 30,000 km, and breakdowns are extremely rare.
But what to do if you couldn’t find branded parts, but the choice of thermostats themselves is quite wide and the prices are about the same? In such a situation, you should pay attention to the material of the case. You should only purchase products made from stainless steel or high-quality brass, which can be distinguished by weight when you hold them in your hands.
You should absolutely not purchase products made from zinc alloys, which can imitate brass or steel, but are also very light. The housings of such thermostats are extremely unreliable and can leak not only from impact, but also from frequent temperature changes (especially in winter).
Types of VAZ thermostats and which one is better
Visually, even an experienced salesman cannot distinguish a kopek thermostat from a Niv one. Because the difference is inside them and in the location of the pipes. All Togliatti thermostats are made according to the ancient Fiat design - they are removed from the cylinder head into a separate unit and fixed to the pipes and hoses of the cooling system. Here are the main types of VAZ thermostats:
- All classic Zhigulis had a 2101 thermostat under the hood . which can be identified by the location of the pipes, they are turned opposite each other almost at a right angle. However, the most important difference is that the thermal operating conditions of rear-wheel drive Zhiguli engines required blocking the valve at 80 degrees and fully opening it at an antifreeze temperature of 95 degrees.
Exactly the same device was installed and is being installed on Niva . The only difference is that the angle between the pipes tends to 180 degrees.
Thermostat VAZ 21213, 21214 (Niva)
The eight thermostat is installed on all carburetor Samaras in their countless modifications. The difference with classic motors in terms of thermoregulation is that in thermostat 2108 the valve should operate seven degrees later. This happened due to the more advanced design of the combustion chamber, so until the antifreeze temperature reaches 87 degrees, the valve should be closed, and only at 102 degrees should it open.
Modern thermostats on the spare parts market are not distinguished by high accuracy and high quality workmanship, so after a series of tests the plant gave two degrees to the manufacturers. As a result, on boxes with thermostats for the entire Samara family, you can often see the number 85. Visually, the 2108 thermostat is distinguished by the presence of a thin pipe to remove possible air bubbles. The tenth VAZ family received exactly the same thermostat housing as on the classic, but in a mirror image. It does not have a small pipe for air outlet, since the design for the carburetor tens provided a separate tee, which greatly complicated the decoupling of the hoses under the hood. By the way, the figure-eight device is also perfect for carburetor tens; the only thing you need to do is tightly plug the small air hole.
Such thermostats have become the most popular, so when purchasing them, you should definitely look inside; there should be a curtain made of plastic or metal, which better redistributes the flow of liquid to the thermoelement. If it is not there, the valve response temperature can differ greatly (up to 10-15 degrees) from the nominal value, which leads to engine overheating. The thermostat of the 2112 family is designed specifically for injection VAZ engines . Actually, the thermostat doesn’t care what type of power system it is, it does its job and if the manufacturer is conscientious, the valve will always be closed up to a temperature of 85 degrees.
Changing the thermostat of a VAZ 2114 injector with your own hands
To independently replace the thermostat on the injection 2114, we will need a standard set of tools, a container for draining antifreeze and, of course, a new thermostat. We carry out the work in the following order:
- Remove the air filter. To do this, unscrew its body with a 13mm wrench and loosen the air duct clamp.
- Open the expansion tank cap to relieve pressure.
- Pour the antifreeze into a prepared container. We carry out work only on a cooled engine! Next, you will have to unscrew the front screws of the engine protection, if installed. It is best to drain the antifreeze through the drain valve in the bottom bank of the radiator.
- Loosen the clamps on the thermostat pipes.
- Carefully remove them; some more antifreeze may spill out.
- We remove the old thermostat and check the rubber pipes for integrity.
- We install the new VAZ 2114 thermostat in the reverse order. In this case, it often becomes necessary to install new clamps.
Sometimes the clamps need to be replaced.
When filling in antifreeze, it is advisable to remove the throttle body heating hose to displace the air. Otherwise, an air lock may form, which will have to be dealt with separately. After adding antifreeze and checking the tightness of the cooling system, warm up the engine and make sure that the thermostat is working as expected.
Source
Which thermostat is better to install on the VAZ-2114
The difficulty in choosing a thermostat specifically for the VAZ-2114, and for any VAZ, is not even that we will not know its model. There are no problems in this regard; both the model and the valve response temperature are stamped on the bottom of the device. The problem is different - each of the manufacturers, and there are more than two dozen of them, supplies devices of completely different quality. They differ both in response temperature and resource.
Practice shows that the average thermostat must travel at least 120-150 thousand km before it goes on its final journey to scrap.
The price of a thermostat for a VAZ-2114 is from 150 to 400 rubles . The difference is palpable, as is the difference in quality. The public trusts more the native VAZ devices, which honestly work well over a hundred thousand.
Good reviews about Ween thermostats, made in Poland, warranty mileage of 150,000 km, as a rule, stand up. You definitely shouldn’t buy Chinese thermostats, there are conflicting reviews about Luzar thermostats (as well as radiators), other devices can either be successful or leak after 5 thousand miles.
Good luck with your choice and stable temperatures!
His love for cars began in childhood, when he began collecting model cars. I always helped my father with the repair of an old penny, where he gained his first experience. Today I am the owner of a small car maintenance and repair service. I try to keep up with the times, studying new technologies for diagnosing modern cars.
Thermostats for VAZ (Lada) 2113/2114/2115
for repair of VAZ (Lada) 2113/2114/2115
The advantages of such a thermostat are that the engine warms up faster, and the operating temperature, as expected, dropped to 87-90 degrees, the old thermostat was kept at around 93-95, and since in the summer I set the thermostat switching temperature to 95 degrees, The cooling fan was almost always running. in a traffic jam or at a traffic light, the coolant temperature rises much more quietly than with the factory thermostat. The stove begins to heat better and replacing the thermoelement becomes much easier, just unscrew two bolts and the element in your hands, rather than having to remove a bunch of pipes.
Purpose of the device
Thermostat for a VAZ-2114 car
Essentially, a thermostat is a large valve whose task is to allow (or, conversely, not to allow) coolant into the car radiator . When the car's engine has just started, it remains cold for some time, as does the coolant. During this period of time, the thermostat valve is closed, so that the coolant is directed in the so-called small circle. And when the engine temperature reaches 90°C, the valve in the device automatically opens and coolant begins to flow into the radiator. Thanks to this operating scheme, the engine temperature is kept at a constant level, and overheating is eliminated.
Thermostat operating principle
The main purpose of the device is to slow down the flow of coolant into the internal combustion engine. By blocking the coolant flow, the engine warms up to operating temperature. As soon as the temperature mark reaches the operating norm, the VAZ 2114 thermostat opens.
On the side that is closer to the internal combustion engine, there is a special wax ball. The waxy material was chosen for a reason, because when heated it transforms from a solid into a liquid. And as soon as the wax begins to transform at a temperature above 83 degrees, it pushes out the pin, which is located in the cylinder. At this time, the valve opens and coolant begins to flow.
Reasons for replacement
As mentioned above, the thermostat is a valve, and therefore it can get stuck open, closed, or in between. This is the main reason for replacing thermostats on the VAZ-2114, and each case of jamming of the device is dangerous in its own way.
- If the thermostat valve is stuck in the closed position, this will cause the engine to heat up very quickly (especially when the car is used in the summer), since the coolant will constantly circulate only in a small circle.
- If the valve is open all the time, another problem arises: the engine will take a very long time to warm up to operating temperature. And in thirty-degree frost it will be almost impossible to warm up the engine, since the liquid circulates in a large circle all the time and simply does not have time to warm up to the required temperature.
- If the valve is stuck in an intermediate position, this can lead to engine problems.
VAZ 2101 thermostat malfunctions and their symptoms
There can only be two breakdowns of a thermostat: mechanical damage, as a result of which the device body has lost its tightness, and jamming of the main valve. There is no point in considering the first malfunction, since it happens extremely rarely (as a result of an accident, inept repair, etc.). In addition, such a breakdown can be determined even by visual inspection.
Main valve jamming occurs much more often. Moreover, it can jam in both the open and closed or middle positions. In each of these cases, the signs of its failure will be different:
- The engine takes a very long time to warm up. According to the VAZ 2101 passport data, warming up the power plant to operating temperature should occur in 4–7 minutes, depending on the ambient temperature. If the motor does not settle within this time, most likely the main valve is “stuck” in the open position. In this case, from the moment the engine starts, the coolant passes in a large circle, that is, through the radiator, where its temperature decreases. To confirm or refute your suspicions, you need to start a cold engine, wait 1-2 minutes and touch the rubber hose connecting the thermostat and the upper radiator tank with your hand. If it is warm, the valve is definitely stuck in the open or middle position. It is possible to continue operating the car in such cases, but there is no guarantee that the valve will not move in the opposite direction and “stick”, blocking the flow of coolant to the radiator;
If the upper radiator hose becomes warm after 1-2 minutes of engine operation, the main thermostat valve is stuck open. - the engine warms up in less than 4 minutes, and then there is obvious overheating, confirmed by the readings of the coolant temperature sensor. In this case, the valve is jammed in the closed position. To confirm, let's turn to the same pipe running from the thermostat to the top of the radiator. If it remains cold after four minutes, the thermostat is faulty. You cannot continue driving with such a breakdown, otherwise the engine will fail ;
- the temperature of the operating power unit is unstable. If the valve is stuck in an intermediate position, it is almost impossible to diagnose a malfunction of the thermostat without dismantling it. But if you notice that the needle on the temperature sensor constantly changes its position (even if the sensor and device are known to be working), the thermostat is probably the reason for this. Such a breakdown does not pose a serious threat to the engine, but it must be repaired as soon as possible.
Why does the thermostat fail and is it possible to restore its functionality?
Practice shows that even the most expensive branded thermostat lasts no more than four years. As for cheap analogues, problems with them can arise even after a month of use. The main causes of device breakdowns include:
- use of low-quality coolant;
- presence of oxidation products, water, dirt in the cooling system;
- manufacturing defects.
From personal experience, I can give an example of using cheap antifreeze, which I bought for some time on the car market in bulk from a “trusted” seller. Having discovered signs of the thermostat being stuck in the open position, I decided to replace it. After completing the repair work, I brought the faulty part home to check and, if possible, bring it into working condition by boiling it in engine oil (why, I will tell you later). When I examined the inner surface of the device, thoughts about using it ever again disappeared from me. The walls of the part were covered with multiple shells, indicating active oxidative processes. The thermostat, naturally, was thrown away, but the misadventures did not end there. After 2 months, there were signs of a broken cylinder head gasket and coolant entering the combustion chambers. But that's not all. When removing the head, cavities were found on the mating planes of the cylinder head, block, as well as on the windows of the cooling jacket channels. At the same time, a strong smell of ammonia emanated from the engine. According to the master who performed the “autopsy,” I am not the first and far from the last who had or will have to regret saving money on coolant.
As a result, I had to buy a gasket, a block head, pay for its grinding, as well as all the dismantling and installation work. Since then, I have avoided the car market, buying only antifreeze, and not the cheapest one.
Poor quality coolant corrodes cooling system elements
Corrosion products and various debris most often cause the main valve to jam. They are deposited day after day on the inner walls of the case and at some point begin to interfere with its free movement. This is how “sticking” occurs.
As for marriage, it occurs quite often. Not a single car shop, not to mention sellers at the car market, will give a guarantee that the thermostat you purchased will open and close at the temperature indicated in the passport, and indeed work correctly. That's why ask for a receipt and don't throw away the packaging in case something goes wrong. Moreover, before installing a new part, do not be lazy to check it.
Deposits of dirt and oxidation products cause the main valve to jam
A few words about boiling the thermostat in oil. This method of repair has been practiced by our car owners for quite a long time. There is no guarantee that the device will work like new after such simple manipulations, but it’s worth a try. I conducted similar experiments twice, and in both cases everything worked out. I would not recommend using a thermostat restored in this way, but, believe me, it can come in handy as a spare part thrown into the trunk “just in case.” In order to try to restore the device we will need:
- motor oil (not used);
- a metal container that would hold the thermostat so that it is completely covered with oil;
- gas or electric stove;
- WD-40 aerosol or equivalent;
- carburetor cleaning fluid.
The first step is to generously treat the inner walls of the thermostat and the valve mechanism with carburetor cleaning fluid. After waiting 10–20 minutes, immerse the device in a container, pour in oil so that it covers the part, and place the container on the stove. The thermostat needs to be boiled for at least 20 minutes. After boiling, let the oil cool, remove the thermostat, drain the oil from it, and wipe with a dry cloth. After this, you can treat the valve mechanism with WD-40 aerosol. Upon completion of the restoration work, the temperature controller must be checked in the manner described below.
What to do if the thermostat is stuck closed on the road
On the road, a stuck thermostat valve in a small circle can cause a lot of troubles, ranging from a disrupted trip to the need for urgent repairs. However, in some cases these troubles can be avoided. Firstly, it is important to notice the increase in coolant temperature in time and prevent critical overheating of the power plant. Secondly, if you have a set of keys and there is an auto shop nearby, the thermostat can be replaced. Thirdly, you can try to wedge the valve. And finally, you can slowly drive home.
For greater understanding, I will again give an example from my experience. One frosty winter morning, I started my “penny” and calmly went to work. Despite the frost, the engine started easily and warmed up quite quickly. Having driven about 3 kilometers away from the house, I suddenly noticed streams of white steam coming from under the hood. There was no need to go through the options of what was happening. The temperature sensor needle has exceeded 130 oC. Having turned off the engine and pulled over to the side of the road, I opened the hood. Guess about a malfunction of the thermostat were confirmed by the swollen expansion tank and the cold pipe of the upper radiator tank. The keys were in the trunk, but the nearest auto shop was at least 4 kilometers away. Without thinking twice, I took the pliers and hit the thermostat housing with them several times. Thus, as the “experienced” say, you can wedge the valve. It really helped. Within a few seconds of starting the engine, the top pipe was hot. This means that the thermostat has opened wide. Rejoicing, I got behind the wheel and calmly drove to work.
Returning home, I no longer thought about the thermostat. But as it turned out, it was in vain. Having driven halfway, I noticed the temperature sensor. The needle was again approaching 130 oC. With “knowledge of the matter,” I again began to knock on the thermostat, but there was no result. Attempts to wedge the valve continued for about an hour. During this time, of course, I was frozen to the bone, but the engine also cooled down. In order not to abandon the car on the highway, it was decided to slowly drive home. Trying not to overheat the engine by more than 100 oC, I drove no more than 500 m with the heater turned on at full power and turned it off, letting it cool. I got home in about an hour and a half, having traveled about five kilometers. The next day I replaced the thermostat myself.
Troubleshooting
Before changing the thermostat, you need to make sure that it is the one that is faulty. The ways to do this are listed below:
- The engine starts and warms up for 10 minutes. Then the hood of the car opens, and the hand is carefully brought first to the upper and then to the lower radiator pipe. If the thermostat is in order, these pipes will not burn your hand and their temperature will be approximately the same. If the temperature of the pipes differs so much that it can be felt by a simple touch, then the thermostat is faulty.
- The engine starts, after which the hood immediately opens and the hand is brought to the upper radiator pipe. When the thermostat is working properly, this pipe remains cold until the engine reaches operating temperature, that is, about 10-15 minutes (in the warm season). After this time, the pipe heats up very quickly and noticeably. If this does not happen, the thermostat is faulty.
- And finally, the most time-consuming diagnostic method: the device is removed, placed in a container with water and a thermometer, after which the water is heated until the valve in the thermostat clicks. The temperature at which the valve operates is detected and based on it, conclusions are drawn about the operability of the device (in a working thermostat, the valve operates at a temperature of 90-95°C).
Checking the device
There is a very simple way to check the VAZ 2114 thermostat for a malfunction without removing it from the car - this is to check the lower radiator pipe. If the engine remains cold when running, this indicates a clear problem. In this case, the VAZ 2114 thermostat does not need to be dismantled, and if it is cold, this indicates that the valve is jammed and does not open.
It is also possible to test the removed thermostat at home. To do this, you need to place it in a pan of water. The water gradually heats up, at a temperature of 82 degrees the valve begins to open. If this does not happen, then it is faulty and must be replaced.
One of the most popular causes of failure is the formation of corrosion, which is why the valve may stop opening. The issue can be solved simply simply by cleaning the device and bringing it into proper shape. Corrosion can be removed with acetone or gasoline. After the corrosion has been removed, you need to put the thermostat back in place and check its functionality.
Which thermostat to choose
To answer this question, it is important to understand one thing: saving on this device is strictly not recommended. A faulty thermostat leads to engine overheating. And overheating entails a lot of problems, the elimination of which can be very expensive. There are 2 brands of thermostats for the VAZ-2114, proven over the years, the quality of which car owners always speak well of:
- LUZAR (Lugansk Automobile Radiator Plant).
Thermostat for VAZ 2114 from LUZAR - WEEN (Poland).
Polish thermostat from WEEN
It is strongly not recommended to buy Chinese-made thermostats for the VAZ-2114 (in particular, BAUTLER); you should also refrain from purchasing devices from PRAMO (Russia, Vladimir), despite the fact that Polish thermoelements are installed there. Both of these brands, although they work, are not durable.
How to check the thermostat
You can diagnose the thermostat without involving specialists. The procedure for checking it is quite simple, but to do this the part will need to be dismantled. We will consider the process of removing it from the engine below. Now let’s imagine that we have already done this and the thermostat is in our hands. By the way, this could be a new, just purchased device, or restored by boiling in oil.
To test the thermostat, we only need a kettle with boiling water. We place the device in the sink (sink, pan, bucket) so that the pipe connecting the part to the engine is at the top. Next, pour a small stream of boiling water from the kettle into the nozzle and watch what happens. First, the water must pass through the bypass valve and pour out from the middle pipe, and after heating the thermoelement and the main valve is activated, from the bottom.
Video: checking the thermostat
Sequencing
- Using a 13 key, unscrew the air filter.
- Unscrew 2 bolts and 1 nut on the radiator. Under one of the bolts there is a hole through which the coolant is drained into a container placed in advance under the radiator.
Drain bolt on the radiator for draining antifreeze - The connector located on the recirculation valve filter housing is removed. Then the valve itself is removed and carefully moved to the side along with all the tubes located next to it. The connector from the air flow sensor is also removed, the clamp on it is loosened, and then the air supply hose is removed.
All hoses have been removed from the recirculation filter housing and it is ready for removal. - After these operations, the filter is easily removed and access to the thermostat is opened.
- Use a 12 wrench to unscrew the nut on the top of the thermostat (there is only one there). After this, the ground wire is removed and the stud and the lower nut on the device are unscrewed with a 13mm wrench.
- After this, the thermostat is removed from the socket (this is done by slightly shaking the device, and if this does not help, the thermostat is pryed off with a screwdriver).
The thermostat is carefully removed from the socket - Before installing a new thermostat, the socket is thoroughly wiped off from drops of coolant and other contaminants, after which a thin layer of sealant is applied (the sealant must be allowed to dry for at least 5 minutes before installing the device).
- The new thermostat is installed in its original place, after which all components of the vehicle’s cooling system are reassembled.
Where is? How to replace a thermostat
Before replacing the thermostat, you must clear access to it. For VAZ 2114 1.5 and 1.6 on 8-valve engines, the process may be slightly different, but generally identical. After the functionality test has been carried out, we proceed to dismantling.
First of all, to get to the device we need to remove the air filter housing. To do this, unscrew the bolts, loosen the clamps and remove the chip from the MAF sensor.
The difference between the 1.5 engine is that when removing it there is no need for a wrench; on 1.6 engines there are fasteners that can only be unscrewed using a hexagon.
After this, prepare a container for the coolant and drain it. If the car is equipped with engine protection, then it must also be removed.
At the bottom of the radiator there is a special tap that allows you to drain the coolant. We place a container under it and unscrew it, waiting for the coolant to completely drain. In order for it to flow out faster, unscrew the cap on the expansion tank.
After the liquid has drained, the air filter housing has been removed, and the pipes have been disconnected, you can remove the thermostat.
Replacement of the device is carried out in the reverse order. Before installing a new device, it is necessary to clean the seat and thoroughly coat it with sealant.
After the thermostat is installed on the VAZ 2114 injector, we fix the pipes in the reverse order.
Replacing the VAZ 2107 thermostat - step-by-step instructions
Hello dear readers of the Autoepoch.ru blog! Today I want to talk about replacing the VAZ 2107 thermostat.
Description, device and principle of operation.
The thermostat, also known as the “seven” thermostat, is a part that is a cylindrical container with three outlets for pipes. At the upper end of the part there is an inlet pipe from the engine, at the bottom there is an inlet pipe coming from the radiator, and the third outlet pipe is located on the top side. The thermostat device can be seen in more detail in the photo below.
If the engine is started “cold”, antifreeze passes through the cylinder block and the pump, the so-called small circle. This ensures quick warm-up of the engine. When the temperature reaches 80.6 to 81.5 degrees Celsius, the main thermostat valve begins to open, and the antifreeze begins to move in a large circle through the radiator. At the same time, the bypass valve gradually shuts off the antifreeze coming from the engine. When the temperature reaches 94 degrees, the valve opens to its maximum value, the coolant moves only in a large circle.
Main malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 thermostat.
- Engine overheating - the thermostat opens partially or does not open completely.
- When first started, the engine heats up slowly and does not reach operating temperature - the thermostat does not close.
How to check the thermostat without dismantling it?
If the unit is working properly, then after starting a “cold engine”, the lower pipe leading to the radiator should not heat up immediately, but only when the engine temperature reaches 80-88 degrees. Also, if this pipe does not heat up at all, and the engine does not overheat, this indicates a malfunction of the unit. Accordingly, if at minimum temperatures the lower pipe begins to heat up, this also indicates a malfunction.
How to replace a VAZ 2107 thermostat with your own hands - step-by-step instructions.
To replace you will need:
- new thermostat
- crosshead screwdriver
- clamps (if necessary)
- pipes (if necessary)
- coolant
- sealant (if necessary)
- The first step is to drain the coolant (only on a cold engine).
- we drive the car into the pit (the car must be strictly horizontal!),
- move the warm air supply lever to the right,
- unscrew and remove the expansion tank cap,
- unscrew the radiator filler cap,
- unscrew the drain plug on the cylinder block (place a container under the drain in advance!),
- unscrew the radiator drain plug (place a container under the drain in advance!),
- The remaining coolant can be drained by unfastening the belt securing the expansion tank and lifting it up.
- For convenience, you can remove the battery.
- Unscrew the old clamps and remove the thermostat.
- Next, install a new thermostat (if necessary, you can replace the pipes and clamps).
- Fill with coolant, test the new part (described above).
Adviсe.
- When you drain the coolant, it is better not to open the expansion tank cap right away. In this case, the liquid will flow slowly due to the vacuum created.
- When you unscrew the plug on the block, slowly unscrew the tank cap.
- In order not to get rid of air in the pipe after filling the liquid, you can remove the thin hose supplying coolant to the carburetor, located in the rear part. Fill in the coolant, watch when it flows out of the hose. This will indicate that the air has escaped; this is the highest point of the coolant in the car.
Replacing the thermostat
Remove the old one, install a new one in its place - this is the entire replacement procedure. But you need to carefully inspect all the pipes of the system. The VAZ-2109 thermostat is connected. The injector or carburetor in the injection system does not matter.
When carrying out work, pay special attention to the clamps. It is highly undesirable to use old ones, it is better to install new ones
Moreover, reliability is an important criterion. Worm-type clamps are very delicate: as soon as you apply a little more force, it breaks. And the possibility of damaging the pipe is very high. If you tighten the clamp too much, you can puncture the rubber. But, of course, you can’t tighten it loosely, as liquid leaks will appear. In other words, this is a double-edged sword. And a little advice: before installation, it is advisable to apply a thin layer of sealant to the surface of the thermostat that will be in contact with the pipe.
Replacement procedure
Before changing the thermostat on a VAZ 2114, watch video tutorials that will make it easy to master a rather complex procedure with your own hands. You certainly can’t call a DIY replacement impossible. However, it won't hurt to gain additional knowledge.
Also prepare the necessary tools and materials:
- New thermostat;
- Screwdriver Set;
- Keys for 13 and 12 millimeters;
- Sealing gasket;
- Silicone based sealant;
- New antifreeze or antifreeze;
- Container for old coolant;
- Engine cooling system pipes.
Now let's get down to the repair itself.
- Place the car on the inspection pit. Before starting work, the engine must cool down, otherwise burns will be difficult to avoid.
- Open the hood and remove the air filter. Check its condition. It might be a good idea to replace it.
- Remove the expansion tank cap, unscrew the drain plug and remove all the antifreeze. Make sure it fits exactly into the container underneath.
- There are clamps on the cooling hoses that need to be loosened a little.
- Using wrenches, remove the nuts and studs responsible for fastening. Be sure to remove the ground wire.
- After you disconnect the hoses, wiggle the thermostat a little to allow it to be removed.
- Clean the thermostat mounting points and check the hoses for serviceability. Often during the life of the car they become covered with cracks, through which air and coolant escape. Even if they are intact, but have been on the car for a long time, we recommend replacing them with new ones.
- Treat the pipes on the body of the new thermostat with sealant and let them dry a little.
- Replace the old gasket, put the thermostat in place, fix the studs, nuts, and connect the pipes. The clamps must be tightened well, but carefully so as not to break the tightness of the connections.
- Close the drain plug, and then you can start adding new coolant.
- Start the engine and check the efficiency of your new thermostat valve.
- Make sure that the heating radiator is in good working order and check for any air pockets.
At this point the repair can be considered complete. If you have questions or certain stages cause difficulties, watch the video about replacing the VAZ 2114 thermostat, which will allow you to study in detail the procedure for removing the old element and installing a new one in its place. In fact, there is nothing complicated here. It just requires accuracy, patience and consistency in completing each step.
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Video
This video contains useful information on how to check thermostats for quality.
How to check the thermostat yourself.
Thermostats for VAZ 2101-2107.
The thermostat is one of the most important components of the engine cooling system, allowing it to warm up a cold engine in a short amount of time until it reaches an operating temperature of 90°C and significantly reduces wear on the latter.
What is a thermostat in a car
As a rule, the thermostat is placed near the radiator. The design is equipped with a return spring, a heat-sensitive valve, and a solid filler. The pipes are connected so that 2 circles are used for cooling: the large one covers the radiator, and the small one covers the engine. After the engine starts, the coolant begins to flow and heats up, which ensures the fastest warm-up. When the coolant temperature reaches 90°C, the temperature-sensitive element opens the valve. The liquid enters the radiator, which ensures effective cooling, and the warmed-up engine keeps the temperature at normal levels.
Thermostats installed by the factory on the VAZ 2114 are not always of the proper quality, which is why most drivers, when given the opportunity, try to replace them with foreign analogues.
A huge mistake is made by those who, in the hope of saving on cost, decide to purchase and install Chinese-made thermostats. The latter soon fail and require replacement even faster.
Where is the thermostat located
On injection-type engines, the thermostat is located under the air filter, and on carburetor engines it is in the same place, except that the filter housing itself is slightly shifted on older models of the VAZ 2114-2115 family, which makes the removal procedure much easier.
There is no need to remove the housing; the high-voltage wires are simply disconnected and the required component of the cooling system can be dismantled. On injection models, after removing the filter housing, the thermostat will be visible. The battery on the right side can be considered a reference point.
When does a VAZ 2114 thermostat need to be replaced?
An indicator of wear may be improper valve operation. In some cases, the coolant begins to circulate in a large circle, as a result of which the car begins to quickly heat up, which is very little noticeable in the summer - this is the main problem. In winter, on the contrary, the car warms up very poorly. In these cases, the thermostat valve is completely open and does not close. The opposite case is when the valve is completely closed and the liquid begins to circulate in a small circle, the car begins to quickly heat up, and when driving in dense city traffic with traffic jams or during long stops, the engine temperature even reaches critical levels.
It is a little less common for the valve to open to the middle, while the car warms up in cold weather a little slower than normal, and in warm weather the temperature indicator needle can gradually reach a critical point. All these signs indicate a malfunction of the thermoelement.
There are cases when both the thermostat and the cooling fan are faulty. The liquid will flow only in a small circle, which can lead to rapid overheating of the engine and even damage the cylinder head. Then it will no longer be possible to do without major repairs.
If the temperature of the engine suddenly raises suspicions, or rather the engine takes a long time to heat up or too quickly, you can check the operation of the thermostat without dismantling it by doing the following:
- you should start the engine and let it warm up to a temperature of 87-92 ° C;
- at the moment of warming up, when the engine is still cold, touch the lower pipe next to the thermostat - it should be cold all the time until the engine warms up to operating temperature;
- When the engine finally warms up, the lower hose will begin to heat up. If the hose heats up ahead of time, or if the hose does not heat up even when the engine reaches operating temperature, this means that immediate replacement of the thermoelement is necessary.
FakeHeader
Comments 43
But there are no original ones for Toyota for 88. Only for 82 or TAMA?
I decided to do this myself in the winter of 88 and in the summer of 82
I installed a new TAMA at 88 in Caribe, and changed the fluid at the same time, in the winter I burned my hands with the heat from the stove, and in the summer there were no problems. Installed TAMA. But I would put the original on a Lexus, I’d already put it in the cart.
Question for the experts, I replaced the antifreeze, the thermostat at 82, removed the air, the stove heats only at 2. On long trips the heat is on the 1st and the lamb is half full. Where to dig?
Thermostat data
Orlovsky LLC
Weight 524 g, length 150 mm.
Distances between pipes: between the front ones 115 mm, between the extreme rear ones 110 mm, offset “right-front - right-rear” 20 mm.
Hole diameters, internal/external: - 3 large 27/33 mm; — 2 small 14.5/20.5 mm; — internal (bypass) 12 mm.
article about the differences between VAZ cooling systems