Replacing VAZ 2106 silent blocks using the correct technology

Why do silent blocks need to be changed over time? There are several reasons for this:

Over time, rubber loses its elastic properties and begins to crack.
During use of the machine or during its maintenance, oil got onto the silent block.
Incorrect installation of the part.
Driving on very bad roads, of which there are a great many in Russia.

Everything is diagnosed quite simply. The first thing that should alert you is the deterioration in the responsiveness of the steering wheel. But this may not be the case only, let’s look further. The second sign of dead silents, the wheels are standing like a house. On the pit or on the lift, check the integrity of the rubber bands (they should not have cracks and they should not be squeezed out). You can take a crowbar or a pry bar and try to move the levers. They should not have free movement (should not dangle).

Diagnostics of silent blocks in the front control arms.

Why do silent blocks need to be changed over time? There are several reasons for this:

Over time, rubber loses its elastic properties and begins to crack.
During use of the machine or during its maintenance, oil got onto the silent block.
Incorrect installation of the part.
Driving on very bad roads, of which there are a great many in Russia.

Replacing silent blocks in the upper control arm of a classic with your own hands.

So, let's begin! In rear-wheel drive VAZs, the silent blocks in the upper arm can be changed without even driving into a hole and without removing the arm from the ball (provided that you have a remover for silent blocks). But first you need to determine whether the bushings of the silent blocks are stuck to the bolt securing the lever to the body. To do this, jack up the car and remove the wheel.

Arrows point to bolt and nut

We loosen the nut securing the upper arm with a 22mm wrench and try to turn the bolt. If it spins and the bushings stay in place, then you're in luck! But if this bolt rotates with great force and the bushings rotate with them, then as they say: “Houston, we have problems!” Next we will consider both cases.

If the silent blocks are not stuck.

Further actions depend on whether you have a puller for silent blocks. If there is one, then you don’t have to remove the lever completely, but just unscrew the nut 22 to the end, take out the bolt and turn the lever towards yourself (for the convenience of further repairs).

We turn the lever for convenience.

Next, take a puller and press out the silent blocks.

Removing the silent block using a puller

And with his help we press in new silent blocks. Before pressing, the mounting hole must be cleaned and preferably lubricated with lithol. In the upper arms, silent blocks are pressed into place up to the ribs, as shown in the photo below.

The new silent should be pressed in exactly like this.

But what to do if you don’t have a silent block remover ? Then you will have to completely remove the lever. We take out not only the bolt securing the upper arm to the body, but also take out the ball from the hub (this is faster than unscrewing 3 bolts securing the ball to the arm). Detailed removal of the ball joint is written here.

We removed the lever, put the lever ear on a pipe or on a yew tree (as in the photo), the main thing is that the silent block does not rest against anything, and knock it out with a hammer.

To press in new ones, we need a mandrel (old bearing, piece of pipe, nut head). The inner diameter of the mandrel must be equal to the diameter of the skirt of the new silent block. And we begin pressing in new parts using this mandrel, having previously lubricated the seat with lithol. Reassemble in reverse order.

Important: we pull the bolt securing the lever to the body only under the load on this wheel! Those. The car should not be on a jack, but on all wheels!

If the silent blocks are stuck to the bolt.

This is a very difficult case, since you will have to spend a long time trying to get the bolt that secures the front upper arm to the body.

For those who want to save themselves a lot of time and are ready to fork out a little, I advise you to buy a new bolt, this lever from disassembly and just cut off the old bolt with a grinder.

Well, if you have time and nerves, then we take a gas burner in our hands and burn out the silent block. Follow fire safety precautions! After all the rubber has burned out, you can begin to knock out the bolt. Get ready to do this for a very long time. After you remove the bolt, knock out the remaining clip of the burnt silent tape from the lever and follow the instructions written above.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Jack up and remove the wheel.

2. Unscrew the bolt securing the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Use a wrench with a 16mm head to turn the nut, and use a 16mm wrench to hold the head of the bolt.

After unscrewing, if the bolt cannot be removed by hand, we help it come out with a drift to size.

3. Now we need to remove the ball pin from the fist. To do this, take a flat screwdriver and lightly hammer it into the wedge where the fastening bolt was located. With this action we will “wake up the finger”. Next, take the pipe, insert it into the lever and push the pipe down until the finger comes out. If the finger does not come out, you can help a little with a hammer at the moment when tension is applied to the pipe. Use a hammer to hit the lever in the direction where your finger comes out.

4. If you have a Logan with a stabilizer, then you need to unscrew the stabilizer link. You need to hold it on top of the lever under Torx T40 and unscrew the nut thirteen from the bottom of the lever.

5. Move the protective cover to the side to gain access to the lever mounting bolts. Threaded clip. Unscrews by hand.

6. Unscrew the nut and bolt marked below. They strengthen the traction. The nut on the lever is an eighteen key, the top bolt is a thirteen key.

After unscrewing, remove the rod.

7. Unscrew the two bolts securing the lever and remove the lever.

Please note that the front lever mounting bolt is longer than the rear one. It is longer due to the fact that a rod is also attached to it. 8

Check the condition of the ball joint and measure the hole on the arm for the stabilizer link. The hole should not be larger than 16 mm, a maximum of 1 mm of wear is allowed. If your hole is normal and the ball is live, then it makes sense to change the silent blocks. If something is wrong with any of the above, then it is cheaper and more profitable to replace the lever assembly

8. Check the condition of the ball joint and measure the hole on the arm for the stabilizer link. The hole should not be larger than 16 mm, a maximum of 1 mm of wear is allowed. If your hole is normal and the ball is live, then it makes sense to change the silent blocks. If something is wrong with any of the above, then it is cheaper and more profitable to replace the lever assembly.

If you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, then in general it is recommended to always replace the lever assembly.

9. Before pressing out the silent blocks, we measure their extension as shown in the photo below. New ones need to be planted approximately the same, 1-2 mm is allowed.

We select a mandrel so that it rests around the silent block against the lever. We select the head according to the size of the silent block. We clamp this thing in a vice and squeeze the silent block into the mandrel. If the silent block does not come out completely, we help it a little with a hammer.

We carry out this procedure with two silent blocks.

10. Lubricate the outer part of the silent blocks with a little oil. Next, we select the size of the heads so that one head presses on the silent block holder, and it fits into the other. We clamp it in a vice and, controlling the size, press it in.

The distance from the beginning of the silent block to the edge of the lever is approximately 7 mm. If your silent block is not quite straight, it’s okay. On new original levers they are often not level.

11. We perform reverse assembly. Among the assembly nuances, it is worth noting that the bolts for fastening the silent blocks of the lever must be tightened from the hole when the wheel is loaded.

Also pay attention to the bolt securing the ball joint pin. Make sure that the thread is not pulled. If the bolt is damaged, it only needs to be replaced with the original bolt.

I think there is no need to explain what will happen if the bolt securing the ball pin breaks. Ball bolt tightening torque 60 N.m

If the bolt is damaged, it should only be replaced with the original bolt. I think there is no need to explain what will happen if the bolt securing the ball pin breaks. Ball bolt tightening torque 60 N.m.

There are no more assembly nuances, everything is in reverse order. If you have any questions, please ask below in the comments.

Replacing silent blocks in the lower arm of a VAZ 2107, classic.

Here, when replacing, we can no longer do without an inspection hole or a lift.

To begin, use a 24mm wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the lever. Next, if you have a puller, then use it to press out the silent blocks. If there is no special puller, then we simply take a mandrel with a diameter larger than the diameter of the silent block. We set the mandrel as shown in the photo and hit it with a hammer. At the same time, we rest the lever using a mounting tool or a crowbar, as in the photo. Thus, we remove the silent blocks in the lower arms.

Remove silent blocks without a puller

How to remove stuck silent blocks in the lower front control arm.

Stuck silent blocks cause a lot of trouble when removing them. In order to get rid of them you need a gas torch and a hammer with a core. We burn out the rubber and tap the iron bushings on all sides. After that we try to knock them out using a core and a hammer.

If the nuts securing the lever shaft are not stuck, then it is better to completely remove the lever (this will make it easier to knock the bushings out of the shaft). To do this, you will also need to remove the ball from the hub. Above in the article there is a link on how to remove the ball joints.

Pressing silent blocks into the lower arm.

New silent blocks are pressed into the lever until it stops. This can be done using a puller or a mandrel of a suitable diameter; you can use a head as a mandrel.

After installing the new levers, tighten the nuts and release the car onto the wheels. Only after this do we fully tighten the nuts.

Of course, it will be clearer to see how everything is done once than to read it a hundred times. Especially for you, I am attaching a video about replacing silent blocks in the front arms of a rear-wheel drive VAZ.

Pressing in silent blocks

We have already talked in detail about how to get the “silents”, now another problem arises - how to press this part? This procedure is difficult because it requires certain skills and abilities. An incorrectly or crookedly installed silent will either not work or break prematurely.

First method

As with pressing, pressing should ideally be done using a vice. The principle is somewhat similar, but just the opposite. Before pressing the part, you need to thoroughly clean the seat from any residues and rust from the previous silent using sandpaper. Then the eye is generously lubricated with a lubricant like “Litol” or with a soap solution. A lever is installed, the part is placed on top, after which press pressure is applied to the spacer through a special mandrel. It will press the part into the seat.

Second method

When you do not have a press, you can press the part using the above-mentioned jack or a vice. The principle of operation is no different from a press. The lever, bushing, and spacer are installed. Then, under the force of a vice or jack, the part is pressed into the seat.

Third method

Press puller. If the silent block is small, you can “put it in its place” using the same press puller that was used to press the part out of the socket. Again, the principle is the same, only a thick washer and a pin are used as a press.

Fourth method

Using a sledgehammer and brute force.
This method is not the best of all existing ones, since it is considered more from a purely theoretical point of view. In other words, it really allows you to press a part, but it’s very difficult to say what the results and quality of work will be. The principle is quite simple: we take a lever, put a silent on it, and then hit it quickly and hard. After such a strong impact, it should go into the ear of the lever. Only the main drawback of the method is that it is not so easy to predict the correct movement of a given part; it can fit crookedly into the landing site. Among other things, “biting” of the rubber components may occur and damage to the lever itself or the silent block. Simply put, the blow is very difficult to control, and often after this kind of “experiment” you have to turn to specialists and redo everything again. Therefore, think carefully about the possible consequences before using this method.

Fifth method

The last known method of pressing a silent is to use the weight of the car. The principle is to use the weight of your car for personal gain. It all happens like this: install a hydraulic or screw-shaped jack and remove the wheel. Then install the lever with the silent, which needs to be pressed, under the hub.

Then we level everything thoroughly and begin to slowly lower the jack. In this case, it is recommended that you have someone help you. The weight of the machine will be quite enough to firmly press the part into the landing site. The disadvantage of this method is that it is inconvenient and somewhat unsafe; in addition, it is not so easy to control whether the part is correctly seated in the socket. But when you have no other option, the method is well worth considering.

Replacing the upper silent blocks

First of all, you should unscrew the vertical bolt securing the bumper, as it will interfere with removing the axle. Next, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint and, using a special puller, press the ball pin out of the bipod.

After that, using two 22mm wrenches, twist the nut and remove the bolt securing the upper arm to the body. Now we will need a puller. Having clamped the removed part in a vice, use a puller to press out the old parts, and press new ones, polyurethane or rubber, in their place.

After the replacement is made, assembly is carried out in the reverse order:

The lever fastening bolt is inserted and the nut is screwed on. You shouldn’t tighten it completely, we’ll do it at the very end;
The ball joint is installed in place, the nut is tightened until it stops;
The wheel is screwed on, the car is lowered and removed from the jack;
Having turned the steering wheel, tighten the upper arm securing nut until it stops.

Homemade silent block remover

It is convenient to change the rubber-metal elements of the front suspension using a puller. However, not everyone has it. Therefore, you have to make the device yourself, since it is quite difficult to dismantle the hinges with improvised tools. Let's take a closer look at how and from what materials a puller can be made.

The main elements of the puller are bushings of different diameters and a bolt with washers and a nut

Replacing the lower silent blocks

Changing silent blocks on the lower arm of a VAZ 2107 is somewhat more difficult. All work is carried out directly on the car.

Unscrew both nuts securing the lever;

We screw the puller onto one side and squeeze out the silent block;

We perform a similar operation on the opposite side;
We install new polyurethane silent blocks one by one and press them into the lower arm using a puller;

Install the thrust washers and screw on the self-locking nuts, not completely;
We fasten the wheel and remove the car from the jack;
Tighten the lower arm mounting nuts until they stop.

In this work, the puller plays an important role, since without it it is practically impossible to complete the work without removing the lower arm.

Since your safety directly depends on the serviceability of the VAZ 2107 chassis, periodic diagnostics and replacement of failed elements are necessary. To do this, it is advisable to purchase the most popular pullers, namely:

Ball joints;
Silent blocks;
Tie rod ends.

Thanks to them, repairing the chassis of your VAZ 2107 will not cause any difficulties. And the use of high-quality components will ensure your safety for a long time. It is for these reasons that polyurethane silent blocks are recommended for installation.

Lower arm repair

If the lower arm is slightly bent and no other damage is detected, then you can continue to operate the car, you just need to check the wheel alignment. Repair or replacement of this element of the front suspension is carried out in the following cases:

severe damage to the lower arm;
appearance of cracks.

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

set of open-end wrenches;
set of heads;
metal brush;
jack;
puller for pressing out silent blocks;
device for removing ball joints;
mounting blade;
penetrating liquid;
hammer;
vice.

Removing the lever

The need to dismantle the lower arm arises when the specified element fails to replace the axle or silent blocks.

Work order:

Raise the front of the car. To do this, use a jack, but you can also use a lift.
Remove the wheel.
Unscrew the lower shock absorber mount.
Loosen the nuts on the axle.
Release the stabilizer pad mounting.
Lightly load the suspension. To do this, you will need a reliable support, which is placed under the lever and the car is lowered slightly.
Unscrew the nut on the support and press out the pin. This is done using a special puller.
Unload the suspension. This must be done smoothly. Gently pull back the stabilizer to move it through the pin located on the lower arm.
Remove the spring. To do this, it is pryed up and removed from the support cup.
Unscrew the axle mounting bolts. Under them there are washers that are used to adjust the camber angle of the wheels. You need to remember their location, otherwise you will have to make adjustments again.
Remove the lower arm. To do this, use a mounting spatula, which is used to gently press out the axle.

Video: sequence of dismantling the lower arm

Replacing the ball joint

You can replace the ball joint on the lower arm without removing it. Since we have already removed the lower arm, it will be much easier to change the ball joint on it:

Clean the ball joint mounting nuts. This is done using a metal brush; you can also lubricate the threads with WD-40.
Remove the support. To do this, unscrew the three fastening nuts and remove the indicated element. Carefully inspect the lever to detect possible damage and cracks.
Install a new ball joint and tighten all nuts.

The new ball joint already comes with lubricant, so there is no need to lubricate it additionally. Some supports have an oil nipple in the lower part, through which you can additionally fill it with lubricant over time.

Video: replacing the ball joint

Replacing silent blocks

The sequence of work to replace silent blocks on the removed lower arm:

The lever is securely fixed in a vice.
Using a puller, the old hinges are pressed out.
Inspect the lever for damage.
One silent blocks are inserted. A puller is also used for this.
The axle is inserted into the hole along with the washers.
Press in the second hinge. They do this in the same way as in the previous case.

Video: replacing silent blocks

Experts recommend that after replacing the ball joint and silent blocks, use only new nuts.

Lever Installation

After repairing the lever body, replacing silent blocks or a ball joint, installation of the lower lever is performed in the reverse order:

The axle and the lever are secured using bolts.
The lower edge of the spring is installed in the support cup. After this, they begin to tighten the lower lever. Make sure that the stabilizer does not catch on the bushing.
Insert the threaded part of the ball joint and fix the nut.
Fix the stabilizer pad.
Install the shock absorber and tighten the nut.
Check the tightness of all nuts. They must be clamped securely and firmly.
Install the wheels and remove the car from the jack.

At this point, the replacement of the lower arm is considered complete, and you can continue to operate the car safely and comfortably.

Video: installing the lower arm

By regularly inspecting the condition of the front suspension on the VAZ 2107, you can notice and eliminate any malfunctions in time. Even a novice car enthusiast can replace the lever, ball joint or silent blocks on his own. Keeping the suspension in good condition ensures not only comfortable, but also safe operation of the vehicle. The use of high-quality parts from trusted manufacturers will significantly increase their service life and repairs will need to be performed much less frequently.

How to replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2107

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers on VAZ 2101 - 2107 cars is not an easy task. However, they still need to be changed from time to time, and most car enthusiasts have learned to do this without much difficulty. A special universal puller will help to significantly simplify this work. It is with its help that both the upper and lower silent blocks are replaced.

So, you have come to the conclusion that it is time to replace the silent blocks. You should start by purchasing them. Today there are many domestic and imported products on the auto parts market. They differ from each other in price, quality, and service life. Experts recommend installing polyurethane ones as the most reliable and durable, however, due to the fairly high price, they are not affordable for everyone.

For the replacement process itself, it does not matter at all whether the silent blocks are polyurethane or rubber; they are changed on the VAZ 2107 in exactly the same way. From the tool you will need:

Silent block remover;
Ball joint remover;
Keys for 13, 22, 24;
Hammer;
Chisel;
Mount;
Penetrating lubricant (eg WD-40).

You should start by hanging the front end on a jack and removing the front wheel. Next, we proceed directly to the replacement procedure. For the upper and lower front arms of the VAZ 2107, the order of work is different, so we will consider both options. To simplify the work, it is recommended to pre-treat all threaded connections of the levers with penetrating lubricant.

Replacing the upper silent blocks
Replacing the lower silent blocks
Security measures

Signs of malfunction of levers and silent blocks

One of the signs of a malfunction is noise in the suspension when driving, especially on a bad road. Among other things, it occurs when silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges of levers) are severely worn. Also, if the silent blocks are worn out or the VAZ 2107 lever is deformed, it becomes impossible to set the alignment angles of the front wheels. The same problem occurs when the axes of the front arms are deformed.

If the levers are deformed, the car may pull to the side when driving on a flat road. An extremely unpleasant phenomenon - self-excited vibrations of the front wheels - is often a consequence of wear of the silent blocks.

Elimination of any of the listed malfunctions of the levers and silent blocks requires the removal of the suspension arms

Preparing instruments for the replacement procedure

Replacing VAZ 2106 silent blocks begins with the acquisition and preparation of tools. The main thing is that the tool fits in size and is comfortable to use. So, in order to replace the silent block, you will need:

Device for changing rubber-metal hinge.
Ball joint remover (for removing the upper arm).
Tool for dismantling the steering wheel end (an irreplaceable thing when unpressing the distant steering wheel ends).
Jack.
Twenty-two and twenty-four millimeter wrenches (open-end, socket).
Thirteen millimeter wrench (cross-cut, socket).
Set of mounts.
Hammer.
A thin chisel (it must be very sharp, since the lower silent blocks are often glued to the lower arm under pressure, and to avoid removing the arm, you can use a chisel).

Since silent blocks play a very important role in the life of a car, and changing them is a rather complex and time-consuming process, there is no need to try to save money - you need to buy high-quality branded hinges. Don't know which one to take, rubber or polyurethane? Preferably polyurethane ones, but it should be noted that they are not cheap.

How to press in a silent block - execution details

Andrey-45 Blog Replacing Silent Blocks with Your Own Hands on a VAZ-2131 Niva

A silent block (rubber-metal hinge) is two metal bushings with a rubber insert between them. This unit is used to connect suspension parts. Due to the fact that there are elastic inserts (most often polyurethane) between the silent block bushings, these elements dampen vibrations transmitted from one unit to another. For example, a knock in the front suspension may well be caused by a faulty silent blocks, since they bear the heaviest load. Silent blocks must resist the deformation that the car's suspension receives. To figure out which silent blocks are better and how to replace VAZ 2107 silent blocks, it is best to contact specialists. Indeed, replacing such a unit requires appropriate knowledge and qualifications, so if you doubt your own abilities, entrust the repair to professionals.

By the way, there are certain signs by which you can determine the need to replace a given unit. So, if the rear silent blocks of the front levers or the front silent blocks are worn out, the car will pull away at speed. Uneven tire wear may also occur. Although, if such a problem occurs, it may be necessary not only to replace the silent blocks, but also to carry out some repair work related to the suspension. It should be remembered that any intervention in the operation of the car suspension (including if you replaced the silent block of the lever) will require restoration of the toe and camber angles of the wheels. As for purchasing new silent blocks to replace worn ones, today the most popular are fulcrum silent blocks, which are products with polyurethane gaskets.

Replacing the silent block

It is clear that when, say, the rear silent blocks are replaced, the worn parts need to be removed and new ones installed in their place. It seems that there is nothing complicated, but many car enthusiasts are racking their brains over how to press out the silent block, since it may not fit into the lever. However, all this is completely solvable if you choose the right set of tools. So, how to press in a silent block without any problems:

Before starting manipulations, it is necessary to carry out a thorough visual inspection of all structural parts to ensure that they correspond to each other in size; pressing in the silent block at home should be done using a vice. This tool can ensure reliable fastening of the part; the lever must be thoroughly cleaned of all existing contaminants, after which the inner walls of the hole must be generously lubricated with machine oil; the metal outer sleeve must be lubricated in the same way; the lever must be clamped perfectly evenly in a vice, after which it is strictly perpendicular a silent block is installed for him

It is very important to avoid distortions when carrying out this operation, since in this case you will get unstable operation of the entire car, and the polyurethane hinge will not work for a long time in such conditions. The next step is to drive the hinge into the lever, using two short metal pipes for this. One of these pipes must have the same diameter as the outer bushing of the silent block

In order to drive in the hinge, it is necessary to hold the lever with one pipe and place the other directly on the silent block so that when working with a hammer the part is not damaged. By performing such simple manipulations, you can easily press in the silent block and thereby provide your car with suitable conditions for comfortable operation. If, however, any difficulties arise during the installation process, the optimal solution to the problems would be to contact a car service.

Replacing the rubber-metal joint of the lower arm without disassembling the suspension

The sequence of replacing the rubber-metal hinge

lower arm:

Using a twenty-two millimeter wrench, we unscrew the fastening nut of the lower arm.
We use a special puller and press the hinge out of the seat. This is where it came in handy that the steering tip had been removed in advance, since otherwise it would not have been possible to bring the puller to the silent block.
After removing the damaged silent block, you need to clean and lubricate the axle and threads with oil. The seat is also checked for damage. You need to be prepared for the fact that the silent block will be very difficult to insert back. In this case, it may be necessary to center the lower arm axle and lug using a jack and pry bar.
Using the prepared device, we press the silent block back into the seat. We fix the movable joints, and we can consider that the work is done.
We reinstall the previously removed steering tips. At the same time, do not forget to pin them.
Next, tighten the nuts of both the upper and lower suspension arms of the VAZ 2106. If you follow the technology, then you need to perform this process with four passengers and an additional load of forty kilograms, which is placed in the trunk.
In the absence of the specified number of assistants, you can get by with one (its weight must be at least eighty kilograms). It will alternately occupy seats in the cabin corresponding to the axles of the VAZ 2106, on which the nuts are tightened.

Replacing brushes on a VAZ 2106 generator without removing it.

Replacement is performed in exactly the same way
rubber-metal hinge of the lower and upper arm on other wheels of the VAZ
2106
. Do not forget that the final fixation of the axle nuts is carried out when all silent blocks have been replaced.

Removing the upper arm of the VAZ front suspension is necessary in three cases:

Replacing the lever.
Replacing silent blocks.
Replacing the lever axis.

The procedure for removing the lever is as follows:

Place the car on a lift or inspection hole.
Remove the wheel using a wheel wrench and a jack (the latter is only needed in a pit).
Remove the bolt securing the front bumper bracket.
Disconnect the upper ball joint by unscrewing the self-locking nut and mounting bolts.
Unscrew the self-locking nut of the lever axle, holding the axle with a wrench.
Remove the axle.
Remove the upper arm.

How to press in silent blocks with your own hands?

We have already talked about how to remove the silent blocks, now another problem arises, how to press in the silent blocks? This procedure is complex in that it requires certain skills and abilities. A silent block installed incorrectly or “at awry” will either not work or fail ahead of time.

Method 1

As with pressing out, pressing should ideally be done using a vice. The principle is similar, but exactly the opposite. Before pressing in the silent block, you need to use sandpaper to clean the seat from rust and remnants of the previous silent block. Then the eye is generously lubricated with soap solution or Litol-type lubricant. A lever is installed, a silent block is placed on top, after which, through a special mandrel, press pressure is applied to the spacer, which will press the silent block into the seat.

Method 2

When there is no press, you can press in the silent blocks using the above-mentioned vice or jack. The principle is the same as that of the press. A lever, bushing, spacer are placed and, under the influence of a vice or jack, the silent is pressed into the seat.

Method 3

Press puller. If the silent block is small, then you can “put it in place” using the same press puller that was used to press the silent block out of the socket. Again, the principle is the same, only a pin and a thick washer are used as a press.

Replacing silent blocks VAZ 2106

The silent block is installed on the car's suspension arms; it is one of the important elements of the suspension. The silent block consists of two metal bushings and rubber inserts.

Photo of the car's lower suspension arm. Number 1 shows the ball joint, 2 - the lever, 3 - the axis of the lever (square in cross section), 4 - silent block.

Where is the silent block located?

The silent block connects the torque rod mounting elements, shock absorber mountings, anti-roll bar mountings, gearbox mountings, beam supports, and rear suspension rods.

Why do you need a silent block?

The silent block exists in order to perceive and dampen vibrations transmitted from other elements of the vehicle’s suspension. The silent block design allows it to perceive and absorb vibrations in all planes simultaneously; the silent block can withstand radial, axial and angular loads.

Which element of the car's suspension bears the heaviest load? The answer is silent block. That is why silent blocks wear out quite quickly. If the silent blocks are heavily worn, the car's wheels become uneven or come together. Wheel alignment in this case is a useless exercise, and besides, the money is simply wasted. Replacing silent blocks is quite difficult, especially if you are doing this car repair process for the first time.

Replace silent blocks

This can be done both in a car service center and at home. Now technologies have emerged for restoring worn silent blocks; restoration takes place using special equipment - vulcanizers. Restoring old silent blocks is cheaper than buying new ones.

How much does it cost to restore a worn silent block? In Russia, in car services where there are special vulcanizers, they restore worn silent blocks at a cost of 700 to 1800 rubles.

How to replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2106? To replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2106, you will need the following tools: 13 keys (two pieces), a 22 key, special devices for removing and installing silent blocks on the lower arm of a VAZ 2106. Instead of special tools for removing and installing silent blocks on the lever, you can use bushings with an internal diameter larger than the diameter of the silent block and such a length that you can install a washer on the lever axis and screw on the nut. These are tools if the levers have already been removed. And in order to remove the suspension arms of a car, you need to put the car on a jack, remove the wheels, free the fork from the ball joints, and free the lever from the beam.

A little theory

The silent block is one of the critical parts of the suspension of the VAZ-2106 car, with the help of which fastening elements of such units as:

shock absorbers;
anti-roll bar;
gear box;
jet thrust;
beam supports;
rear suspension rods.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the design, the rubber-metal hinge in the VAZ-2106:

ensures the mobility of suspension parts relative to each other;
withstands axial, radial and angular loads;
absorbs vibrations simultaneously in all planes.

During operation of the VAZ-2106, the silent blocks of the front suspension quickly wear out, which leads to a violation of the geometry of the front wheels and uneven wear of the tire tread. If they are heavily worn, wheel alignment adjustment does not produce results. The only way to get out of this situation is to replace worn out hinges.

The rubber-metal hinges of the rear suspension of the VAZ-2106 wear out in the same way. If the rear axle of the car has lost stability, and a characteristic knocking sound appears in the area of the rear axle when driving on an uneven road, then the rubber-metal hinges of the rear suspension also need to be replaced.

It is best to change pressed, heavily worn silent blocks on a VAZ-2106 car at a service station, whose specialists are equipped with the necessary tools, however, in case of urgent need, you can carry out this procedure yourself.

I want to share my experience of how I change the upper silent blocks

without removing the lever.

Using a jack, remove the wheel where replacement work will be carried out.
Using a twenty-four millimeter wrench, the fastening nut is unscrewed from the lever axis. Now it is advisable to unscrew the nut that holds the steering tip. Afterwards, the disassembly procedure is carried out.
Using a twenty-four millimeter wrench, remove the nut that secures the ball joint.
The puller is used to unpress the bipod support pin (not a big problem if the puller is not at hand, then the lever is simply removed using a pair of thirteen keys).
Next, the nut that secures the axis of the upper arm is unscrewed and pulled out (here the owners of the “six” are lucky, since there is no need to tinker with the bumper mounting bolts like in the “fours”, “fives” and “sevens”).
The lever is transferred to a workbench and clamped between a vice.
Next, using a pre-prepared device, the silent blocks of the upper suspension arm of the VAZ 2106 are completely replaced.
After replacing the rubber-metal hinges, we mount the lever in its place in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the axle before doing this. Oil, lithol, nigrol, etc. can be used as a lubricant. It is important to note that the axle nut does not need to be fully tightened. This process will be carried out under the weight of the vehicle itself.
The support is fixed and the wheel is mounted. The car is removed from the jack.

Replacing the timing chain of a VAZ 2106 without disassembling.

Procedure for changing silent blocks

the upper suspension arm was carried out completely and successfully.

What is a silent block

A silent block, or hinge, is a special part of a car’s suspension. Its design consists of two steel bushings, which are connected to each other by a special insert made of soft material. The most commonly used are rubber or polyurethane.

Replacing the lower arm on a VAZ-2107

The hinge connects several components of the chassis, and with the help of a soft insert, it has the ability to dampen various vibrations and thus prevent their transfer to another element. That is, almost all the impacts received by the chassis go directly to the presented components.

The silent blocks take the bulk of the shock from the suspension, which is why they wear out the fastest.

Silent blocks are installed in the car suspension. Available in both the front and rear parts.

The chassis of the car is responsible for handling, dynamics and smoothness. In order for all these indicators to correspond to the factory settings, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the suspension and promptly change the silent blocks, as one of the main components of this part of the machine.

On the front suspension, the arms are attached using silent blocks, and on the rear suspension, the levers are attached to the reaction rods that connect the body and the axle.

Appearance of parts

Types

When a car owner is faced with the question of replacing silent blocks, he needs to carefully select consumables. When visiting a specialized store, the buyer will face a difficult choice between two materials:

Rubber. Made from ordinary rubber. About 70% of all such products are created using this method. These hinges are considered noisier, less reliable and durable, but have an undoubted advantage - low price.
Polyurethane. Products made from this material have a longer service life and high reliability. In addition, experienced car enthusiasts have noticed that their use improves the performance of the car’s chassis. As for the minuses, it is definitely a high price. On average, such silent blocks cost four or five times more than standard ones.

Using polyurethane products on any vehicle will directly improve performance such as ride and handling. In addition, the level of wear of suspension parts will be significantly reduced, since shocks and deformations will be less transmitted and felt by other components.

When replacing the silent blocks of the front control arms on a VAZ-2107, installing polyurethane products will allow you to radically change the behavior of the car on the road and make fewer visits to the service station.

How to change the outer CV joint boot yourself!

Front suspension

The front end of the VAZ “six” has a more complex suspension design, since the front wheels are steerable and it is on this part of the car that heavy loads fall. The front suspension of the car is an independent double wishbone with coil springs, hydraulic shock absorbers and a stabilizer bar.

Front suspension diagram of VAZ 2106: 1 - hub bearings; 2 — hub cap; 3 - nut; 4 — steering knuckle axle; 5 - cuff; 6 — hub; 7 — brake disc; 8 — protective cover of the upper ball pin; 9 — upper ball pin; 10 — bearing (liner) of the upper support; 11 — upper lever; 12 — compression stroke buffer; 13 — spring insulating gasket; 14 — shock absorber; 15 — shock absorber mounting pad; 16 — axis of the upper arm; 17 — rubber bushing of the hinge; 18 — outer bushing of the hinge; 19 — adjusting washers; 20 — suspension cross member; 21 — stabilizer bar cushion; 22 — stabilizer bar; 23 — axis of the lower arm; 24 - lower arm; 25 — clip for attaching the stabilizer bar; 26 - spring; 27 — rubber bushing of the shock absorber spring; 28 — lower spring support cup; 29 — steering knuckle; 30 — lower ball pin race insert; 31 — lower support bearing; 32 - lower ball pin

Cross member

The front beam is the strength element of the volumetric structure. The material used to manufacture the product is steel. The cross member is located in the engine compartment below. The power unit is fixed to it through the cushions, as well as the lower arms of the shock absorption system.

The cross member is the power element to which the engine and lower suspension arms are attached

Levers

The front suspension consists of four levers - two upper and two lower. The lower elements are fixed to the crossbar using an axle. Between the beam and the axle there are washers and shims that change the camber and angle of the front wheel steering axis. The upper arm axle is a bolt that goes through the mudguard post. Rubber-metal products are installed in the holes of the levers - silent blocks, through which the suspension elements in question can move. Using ball joints, the steering knuckle (trunnion) is mounted to the levers. The wheel hub with the brake disc is fixed on it using tapered roller bearings. The hub is tightened on the axle with a nut, and on the right the fastener has a left-hand thread, and on the left it has a right-hand thread.

The front suspension arms connect and hold the elements of the shock-absorbing system

Shock absorbers

Shock absorbers ensure a smooth ride of the car, i.e., eliminating bouncing on uneven surfaces. Damper devices of almost identical design are installed at the front and rear. The difference lies in the size, mounting methods and whether the front shock absorber has a buffer. The front dampers are mounted with their lower part to the lower arm, and mounted on the top on the support cup.

The shock absorber in the suspension design ensures a smooth ride of the car

Table: parameters of the “six” shock absorbers

vendor code	Rod diameter, mm	Case diameter, mm	Body height (excluding stem), mm	Rod stroke, mm
2101–2905402 2101–2905402–022101–2905402–04 (front)	12	41	217	108
2101–2915402–02 2101–2915402–04 (rear)	12,5	41	306	183

Springs

The “six” is equipped with cylindrical springs, the upper part of which rests against the rack through the gasket and support cup, and the lower part rests against the recess of the lower arm. The purpose of the elastic elements is to provide the necessary vehicle clearance and smooth out shocks while driving on uneven roads.

Springs are an elastic element that provides ground clearance and smoothes out shocks when driving over uneven surfaces.

Stabilizer

The stabilizer is a part that reduces body roll when cornering. It is made of special steel. In the middle, the product is fixed to the front side members through rubber elements, and at the edges - to the lower arms.

To reduce roll when cornering, the suspension uses a transverse stabilizer

Spherical bearing

The ball joints of the front suspension are a hinge, thanks to which the car is able to maneuver and move smoothly. In addition, these elements make it easy to control the front wheels. The support consists of a housing with a ball pin and a protective element in the form of a rubber boot.

The front suspension contains 4 ball joints that connect the arms and the steering knuckle to each other

Why do they fail

Cheap hinges have a short service life. The fact is that rubber has low quality characteristics when used for a long time. It begins to deteriorate, dry out and tear, which leads to the consumable being unusable. In addition, there are other reasons why hinges may wear out and require replacement:

increased vehicle mileage affects the performance properties of rubber in blocks, which leads to damage and deformation of the material;
various reagents and chemical elements that get on the hinge during operation of the machine harm the material. This could be engine oil, substances from the road surface, such as salt or sand, which are sprinkled on roads in winter;
incorrect installation. The arms should only be secured when the vehicle is on the ground and not on a lift or jack. If the fasteners are not tightened correctly, the hinge material will become twisted. This may change its properties and reduce its service life.

How to change silent blocks on a VAZ-2107

Expert advice

The condition of all silent blocks can be assessed independently. During a visual inspection, you will notice rubber peeling or cracks and an increase in play. This is a signal to replace parts. Their service life is designed for 100 thousand kilometers, but given the state of our roads, it is approximately halved.
Replacement of silent blocks of VAZ and other rear-wheel drive cars is carried out simultaneously on the left and right sides of the car.
When replacing parts, it is better to use pullers, since unnecessary impacts on rods and levers can negatively affect their condition, especially in places of welded joints. The pin and bolt on which the old part was located must be cleaned and lubricated with oil.
It is better to install expensive but high-quality polyurethane silent blocks. They have a much larger resource.
If the part cannot be pressed out, it must be sawed using a hacksaw.
If you have no experience in car repairs, it is hardly worth taking on the replacement yourself, even though you know how to change silent blocks. It is better to entrust this matter to service station specialists.

Correctly performed replacement of silent blocks on VAZ 2107 vehicles will extend its service life and make travel safer and more comfortable. The tires wear out less and the car makes less noise. The operation of replacing silent blocks can be done with your own hands if you have some experience in car repair work.

Method for replacing products on the upper arm

It is noteworthy that the hinges are those elements that cannot be repaired. Therefore, it is clear that when they fail, old products need to be removed and thrown away, and new ones installed in their place. Before performing any actions to change the hinge block, you should prepare the following devices and tools:

special pullers for hinges and ball joints;
set of wrenches. Typically needed for 22, 24 and 13 mm;
chisel and hammer;
mount;
lubricant, “VD-40” is suitable.

A set of tools for removing and installing silent blocks.
There is no need to select special tools to replace silent blocks. Those listed in the list above will suffice.

Having picked up everything you need, you need to lift the car and remove the required wheel. Next you need:

Unscrew the front bumper bracket fasteners.
Remove the upper ball joint fasteners.
Unscrew the upper arm axle nut. At the same time, you must hold the axle, otherwise it will turn.
Remove the axle from the mount.
Remove the entire arm from the machine.
Using a special puller, press out the old products and put new ones in their place.

Hinge removal process

How to press out a silent block at home?

Replacing silent blocks is not difficult; for example, I personally became convinced of this when I replaced the silent blocks and shock absorbers on the rear suspension with my own hands. It is for this reason that you can often meet those who decide to independently replace silent blocks at home.

Method 1

First, let's talk about how this should ideally happen. The lever in which it is necessary to replace the silent block is taken, installed under the press on a special stand into which the old silent will be squeezed out, after which a special spacer is installed on top, which will squeeze out the old bushing. This method is used by service stations that have the necessary set of spacers and a powerful press of 10-20 tons.

Method 2

Most motorists, of course, do not have a powerful press, but many have a good vice or jack in the garage. Using a powerful vice, you can successfully squeeze out old bushings using a similar principle - a spacer into which the bushing will go and a spacer that will press on the bushing.

Jack. It would seem, how can a silent block be squeezed out with a jack? Everything is very simple, you need to weld a rectangular frame from some channel or corner at a height slightly higher than your jack and lever. The principle is as follows: we install the jack in the frame, after which we install the lever eye and the two spacers mentioned above on top of the rod. We create the necessary pressure, and the bushing is squeezed out of the seat. It should be noted that in most cases, a 3-5 ton jack is simply not able to cope with such work, so it is better to use 10-15 ton jacks.

Method 3

If you don’t have a jack or a press, and you have an insatiable desire to replace the silent blocks yourself, you can use the third method - using a simple press puller (a pin or a bolt with a nut). The principle is to create pressure by gradually tightening the nut on the stud; this method can be considered analogous to a vice. A pin with a washer of the required diameter is inserted into the eye through the silent block, then a spacer with a washer is put on the other side and the nut is tightened. Rotating along the thread, the nut creates the necessary pressure and forces the silent block to be squeezed into the “receiving” spacer. This “method” requires a strong, hardened stud with the same nut. If the nut or stud is soft, you won't succeed. For example, my pin began to bend due to pressure, after which the thread on the nut was torn off. However, there are thousands of those who managed to replace silent blocks using this particular method. The advantage of this method is its cost-effectiveness and convenience from the point of view of “mobility”, that is, you do not need, for example, to completely remove the entire hub or lever, you just need to have such a primitive press puller.

Replacing lower products

To change the silent blocks on the lower arm, you should carry out the following steps:

Raise the car. To do this, you can use a lift or a standard jack.
Unscrew the wheel.
Loosen the nuts on the lever axis at the bottom.
Unscrew the fasteners from the anti-roll bar cushion.
Return the vehicle to a level surface.
Unscrew the fastening element for the pin on the lower support.
Remove the stabilizer by knocking it out with a hammer or a special puller.
Raise the car again on a lift or jack.
Move the stabilizer through the mounting pin.
Hook the required spring and remove it from the support cup.
Unscrew the lower arm axle fasteners.
Remove the lever itself after unscrewing the washers.
If you need to completely replace the lower arm, then remove the ball joint at the bottom. It has three fasteners that must be unscrewed and removed. There is no need to do this to replace the hinges.
Secure the lever using a vice. After this, you can remove the silent blocks using special pullers.
Install new products and reassemble the entire assembly.

Removing the old lower hinge

Replacement with jet rods

Elements such as torque rods relate to the rear suspension. They are fastened with bolts and bushing-type adapters to absorb impacts, reduce wear and deformation when hitting bumps. Like any other rubber products, such bushings also fail quite often. It is noteworthy that it is recommended to change them all at once.

To disassemble the suspension and torque rods you need a special set of tools:

keys, especially 19 mm;
lubricating fluid;
a set of new hinges;
blade for installation;
brush for working with metal.

The VAZ-2107 car has such an element as a long longitudinal rod. It also has bushings; the process of removal and replacement is also important, because the remaining consumables on other elements are dismantled in a similar way.

In this case you need:

Clean the fasteners from dirt using a special metal brush.
After this, the fasteners must be treated with a lubricating fluid.
After a certain time, unscrew the fastening using a key and remove it.
On the reverse side of the rod, unscrew the fastening of the lower side of the shock absorber.
Remove all fasteners and spacer sleeve.
Move the shock absorber.
Having approached the jet thrust fasteners, lubricate them and unscrew them.
Take a mounting spatula and use it to remove the jet thrust.
The rubber bushings can only be removed if the cage is knocked out of the metal. In this case, you need to apply a special instruction.
You can try to squeeze out or knock out the rubber elements that remain in the traction.
Clean the cage thoroughly before installing new bushings.
Lubricate the new product with liquid and drive or press in with a hammer.
Take a special cone and install a metal sleeve. If it is not available, you can make it yourself by grinding off the head of the bolt.
Press in the bushing with the cone.
To completely remove the bolt, use a sleeve.

How to remove silent blocks without a puller

Without using a puller, most likely it will not be possible to remove the silent block. If you don’t have a ready-made tool, you can make it yourself. There is a sufficient amount of material for this on the Global Network.

Homemade puller diagram

Thus, you can replace the suspension joints in a VAZ-2107 car yourself. This will take quite a lot of time, but will save you on visiting the service. It is advisable to choose a set of new hinges made of polyurethane, as it is more reliable and durable.

vote

Article rating