Why does the stove blow cold air on a VAZ-2110 and what to do

Unfortunately, most VAZ 2110 car owners notice that the stove does not heat well, only in winter, when it is turned on after a long period of inactivity.

Many people remember that the VAZ-2110 car was at one time one of the most popular and sold in Russia.

This can be easily explained by the affordable price, efficiency, comparative reliability and low cost of maintenance.

At one time, the 2110 model became the first step towards creating European-style cars.

Naturally, there were many “sins” left for the VAZ-2110, which led to a large portion of criticism, both from experts and from the actual owners of this model.

Many car enthusiasts complain that the VAZ 2110 stove does not heat well. But if you know some of the nuances of system maintenance, this problem can be easily solved.

Repair work

Repair of the VAZ-2110 stove is required in the following cases:

1. The heater temperature cannot be adjusted.
2. Cold air comes in, and something clicks under the hood.
3. The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove is leaking.
4. Sensor malfunction.
5. The control unit has failed.

If the heater temperature is not regulated, then you will need to check the functionality of the control unit and heater damper of the VAZ-2110. In the latter case, check the fasteners for oxidation. The heater damper is being repaired from under the hood. Auto mechanics first recommend removing the deflectors by bending the antennae. The flap is then moved by hand.

If it works, then the reason why the VAZ 2110 stove does not heat well is something else. In any case, the factory heater damper is replaced with an aluminum analogue. This modification will allow you to retain heat and the heating system will work better. This is explained by the fact that the plastic damper is easily deformed.

The stove does not heat up even if the damper gear motor malfunctions. To check it, you will need to dismantle the frill and insulation. If the gears slip, then the gearmotor is replaced. To do this you will need a set of screwdrivers. If necessary, check the degree of tension of the throttle control cable located near the gas pedal. If the cable tension is weak, then cold or warm air blows.

To check the temperature sensor, you will need to rotate the temperature control lever 2-5 times. If in the latter case hot air enters, the sensor does not work. The design is replaced with a working analogue. If necessary, replace the DHW temperature regulator.

Causes of poor foot airflow

Heater malfunction

Air through the cabin filter is taken from the street by the rotating blades of the electric heater motor. Through a damper system, air is distributed through air ducts and supplied into the cabin through deflectors and non-adjustable grilles.

Air, like any gaseous medium, tends to follow the path of least resistance. Therefore, it is logical that the air flows first come out of the central and side deflectors. The feet of the driver and passengers are blown last. Structurally, the air ducts to the central deflector and the upper side airflow points have a larger cross-section, and it is much easier for air to pass through them.

Initially, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the intake of air from the atmosphere. After all, if the air is supplied in insufficient volume, then it will not be enough to supply all airflow points with the intensity that was calculated at the design stage of the car.

Check the condition of the cabin filter. To do this, remove the wipers and frill. The cabin filter is located on the right side of the vehicle under the windshield. It is covered with a plastic casing, which is secured with four self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the cabin filter. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature and check the operation of the stove. If the situation has improved, change the cabin filter and close the issue.

The second common cause is a clogged heater core. In this case, the heating of the interior will be weak, because warm air does not come out of all the deflectors well, and not just into the legs. But the fact is that when driving for a long time, your feet begin to freeze first, so it seems that the problem is in this part of the airflow.

Video: Why the stove does not blow at the feet of VAZ 2111,2110

This malfunction is easily diagnosed. We find two pipes for supplying antifreeze to the heater radiator (rubber hoses on the left side in the direction of travel of the car). With the engine warm, carefully touch the two pipes one at a time with the heater running at full power. The difference in temperature between the pipes should be minimal. If one pipe is hot and the second is cold or barely warm, we wash or replace the heater radiator.

Checking the operation of the dampers

There are nine exit points for air flows from the heater on the VAZ-2110:

• central deflector;
• two side deflectors and two windshield air vents;
• heated feet of the driver and front passenger;
• two outputs for heating the feet of rear passengers.

In an ideally operating system, the pressure generated by the heater motor is sufficient to create an effective flow to warm the feet. However, over time, gaps form in the joints of the air ducts, and the dampers of the VAZ-2110 heater begin to fit loosely to the body. This leads to atomization of the air flow. As a result, a minimum amount of air reaches the distant exit points.

First, dismantle the panel with the central deflector. It is held in place by four plastic clips. To remove it, simply pry it off one of the sides with a suitable object, such as a flat-head screwdriver. Be careful: the clips are fragile.

Evaluate the damper's performance

In older cars with a manual damper drive, pay attention to the play in the linkage of the rods. A broken rod system will not allow the damper to fit tightly to the body in the extreme position, which will cause air to leak from the cold circuit

The problem is corrected by adjusting the damper. In a mechanical drive, it is possible to shorten the rod due to a movable lock on a gear rod or a threaded tip. During the adjustment process, check that the position of the switch on the panel corresponds to the actual position of the damper.

Another reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not blow into your feet is a malfunction in the operation of the automatic heater control system (AHC) unit or the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. In this case, there is usually insufficiently warm or even cold air from the stove operating in maximum heating mode. This is due to the incorrect position of the damper in which the gearmotor sets it.

Evaluate the operation of the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. To do this, visually check how it closes the damper when switching modes. The easiest way to do this is to remove the panel with the central deflector. Move the temperature knob to the extreme position (for example, set the minimum temperature), then sharply switch to the opposite mode. The damper should completely block the channel visible from the driver's position. If this does not happen, the problem lies in the gear motor or the automatic control system unit. Check the serviceability of the gearmotor and unit.

Additional work

The reasons for poor heater performance may be related to a leak in the radiator. To check it, you will need to remove the stove. If the radiator leaks, then it is replaced with a new analogue. If there are air pockets in the radiator, then cold air blows. In this case, the car should be positioned so that the front wheels are higher than the rear tires. Then open the tap and press the gas pedal. The motor should run for 5 minutes. Then we return everything to its original position.

If the stove does not heat, it is recommended to check the faucet for serviceability. This element is located under the hood. You can eliminate a leaking faucet by replacing it with a new analogue. Experts do not recommend removing the tap from the 2110 heating system. Otherwise, the driver will not be able to control the temperature of the antifreeze. If the stove does not blow well, insulation work will need to be done. We seal the cracks in the panel with anti-squeak. If the valves are jammed, the stove may not work. If the VAZ-2110 is equipped with valves (in the heater hoses), it is necessary to check their operation.

Airlock

As a rule, air enters the system when some elements of the system are depressurized, as well as when the amount of cooling liquid in the expansion tank is critically reduced. How are these problems resolved?

The first thing you need to do is check the antifreeze level in the expander. This process should only be carried out on a cold engine. The amount of liquid should be within the maximum mark, but in no case exceed this figure.

If the antifreeze level is below the minimum mark, then it should be topped up. If the level drops frequently to the minimum or until the expander is completely empty, a leak may occur. In this case, it must be urgently eliminated. Air pumping should be done as follows. Place the car on a flat surface, remove the cover from the expander. After this, start the engine and, increasing the speed several times, add antifreeze.

Ventilation device malfunction

If the fan does not work, you will need:

• replace the fuse;
• check the contacts in the block;
• replace the ignition relay.

To understand that the ventilation device is not working, you will need to turn on the stove at 1-2-3 speeds. If there is no noise, repair work is carried out. If the fan turns on at speed 3, then replace the resistor. To test the position switch, use a 12 W light bulb and 2 wires soldered to it. The torpedo console is first dismantled. To gain access to the stove switch you will need:

A lit light indicates that the switch is working properly. Otherwise, connect the lamp to the positive position switch. If it does not light, then there is an open circuit or the fuse has blown out.

If the fuse is blown, you need to find the source of the short circuit. Then the fuse is replaced. If the heating device only warms up the air, then replace the ignition relay. This part is located under the dashboard in the center console.

The stove fan is replaced in the following cases:

• there is voltage to the switches, but the ventilation device does not turn on;
• poor contact of the device mass located under the stove fixing nut;
• Motor brushes are stuck.

Rules for Car Maintenance

In order to operate the vehicle for as long as possible and without any complications or breakdowns, manufacturers indicate a certain frequency for replacing consumables. For each car brand, it may differ slightly, but we will give average parameters that most car owners should focus on:

• Fuel filter. Replacement is recommended every 30,000-50,000 km. Or, depending on the intensity of use of the machine, every 18-24 months.
• As a rule, auto mechanics recommend replacing the engine oil and oil filter at the same time. And this should be done every 10,000-15,000 km.
• The battery should be replaced after 3-5 years or after traveling 40,000-80,000 km.
• Changing the air filter is advisable after 30,000-50,000 km;
• The oil in the automatic transmission should be checked regularly (once every 2-3 weeks), and it will need to be replaced after 50,000-80,000 km or every 3-5 years.
• Spark plugs need to be replaced on average every 30,000-50,000 km.
• Timing belts or chains are replaced in case of mechanical wear. It is also necessary to observe the frequency of replacement every 50,000-120,000 km, depending on the make of the car.
• The coolant should be checked regularly (2 times a month) and changed every 40,000 km.
• Brake pads and brake fluid need to be replaced every 20,000-50,000 km, depending on the vehicle and the installed unit.
• The cabin filter should be changed 4-5 times a year.
• The amount of freon is replaced or supplemented at least once a year.
• Windshield wiper blades should be replaced every 10,000 km.
• The oil in the transfer case will require a complete change after 50,000-75,000 km.
• The power steering fluid should be updated after 100,000-150,000 km.

Refinement of the plastic block

If the stove blows weakly into your feet, then the reason is the plastic heater control unit of the VAZ-2110. Before starting repairs, it is recommended to make sure that the stove is in working order. Then you will need:

• dismantle and disassemble the torpedo;
• seal the cracks on the panel;
• install a new corrugation;
• seal the panel.

During the factory assembly of the car, the damper is poorly pressed against the dashboard, which contributes to the loss of hot air in the instrument panel. This problem can be solved by removing the damper and the standard seal. We treat the cracks and the valve with madeleine. The factory sponge is replaced with Bitoplast-10. To prevent the passenger's feet from freezing, the air ducts are being modernized.

Another heat loss problem is related to cracks near the driver's seat. They can be blown out with foam. If necessary, replace the old-style air distributor. We place a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm in each hole. If the unit works correctly, then the heating scheme is as follows: from one corrugation warm air flows to the driver’s feet, and from 2 and 3 to the passengers’ feet. There should be no holes between the pipes. If you completely remove the air ducts, hot air will flow into the cabin.

Heating system VAZ-2114

The VAZ-2114 interior heater consists of the following elements:

• radiator with pipes;
• supply shut-off valve;
• frame;
• air ducts;
• dampers;
• fan;
• Control block.

Heating of the air supplied to the cabin is carried out by passing the air flow through the honeycombs of a heat exchanger - a radiator, through which coolant heated by the engine circulates.

The VAZ-2114 heater has the ability to shut off the supply of antifreeze to the heater radiator, so the heating system is turned off (for the summer period). The supply is stopped using a tap embedded in the coolant supply pipe to the heater radiator.

The radiator is installed in the heater housing. In addition to housing the component elements of the stove, the housing prevents the dispersion of air flow and directs its movement.

The heater body is connected to air ducts, with the help of which it supplies heated air flow to the areas of the windshield and side windows, to the middle of the cabin, to the feet of the driver and front passenger. To adjust the direction of air flow, deflectors are installed at the ends of the air ducts that supply heat to the side windows and into the middle of the cabin.

The distribution of air flow across zones is ensured by dampers installed in the housing. The design of the VAZ 21-14 stove uses three dampers:

1. Stove control damper. It redirects the air flow through the radiator (the stove is operating) or bypassing it (the system is operating in interior ventilation mode).
2. Damper for supplying flow to the windshield area.
3. Damper for redirecting warm air to the footwell area or to the side windows and into the passenger compartment.

Thanks to the dampers and the heater tap, the driver activates the interior heating system, controls the air flow, choosing which zone it should be supplied to.

The fan included in the heater design creates an air flow. Thanks to the power supply circuit of the fan electric motor being equipped with rheostats, the unit received three operating modes in which the fan rotates at different speeds.

Unlike the heating systems of cars of the classic family - VAZ-2101-2107, the fan in the VAZ-2114 forces air into the heater body, rather than drawing it in, which increases the efficiency of air supply. Therefore, this unit was installed not inside the housing, but on it. Access to the fan has become easier, since on the VAZ-2114 it is located in the engine compartment, in a niche near the engine shield.

Advice from auto mechanics

To tune the VAZ heating system, its circuit diagram is studied. The system can be modified to block the air flow to the rear of the car using foam. The factory thermostat is also being replaced with an analogue one with 6 holes. In this case, the temperature in the cabin will remain longer, and the stove will heat better. Another way to modify the standard 2110 heating system is to install a plug for the deflector.

In order for the stove to serve longer, it is recommended to follow the rules of its operation.

If your car has air conditioning, it should only be turned on in wet weather. In winter, the stove turns on and directs the air onto your feet or onto the glass.

To ensure good operation of the heater, the nozzle is raised above the lining. Before starting the stove in winter, it is recommended to clean the glass from moisture.

Situations when the stove does not work on a VAZ 2110 are quite common. That’s why many people have to solve this problem. Some do this with the help of car service specialists, others do it with their own hands. Today we will talk about the first option.

Heater

What to do if the VAZ 2110 stove does not heat up

Comfort in the cabin when operating the car in winter is ensured by a stove in the cabin. Before the advent of the “tenth” family of models, AvtoVAZ equipped its cars with a simple mechanically controlled heating system. Starting with the VAZ-2110 model, designers revised the design of the stove and improved its control mechanism. Such modifications increase the convenience of adjusting the heating operation, and sometimes cause failure or improper functioning of the interior heating.

Typical breakdowns

It happens that the stove on a VAZ 2110 does not heat well, does not allow you to fully control it, and so on. Let's look at the most typical breakdowns for this unit.

• The ability to control is lost, that is, the temperature of the stove on the VAZ 2110 is not regulated;
• The ceiling sensor refuses to work;
• The device does not work for heating, the stove blows cold air into your VAZ 2110;
• The flow of hot air to the feet or to the side windows is poor;
• The coolant level drops;
• The heater fan on the VAZ 2110 does not work properly;
• The stove turns on and heats up, but this is accompanied by a lot of noise.

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

Modernization of the heater for the driver’s feet, we will write a separate article about this. The photo shows our editorial car.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

Problem solving

Now let's talk about how to solve emerging issues, troubleshoot problems and return the heater to normal operation.

Each breakdown requires separate consideration.

Broken motor

Temperature not regulated

If the temperature of the air flows cannot be adjusted, the problem is hidden in the control unit or damper, or the temperature sensor on the ceiling inside the cabin does not work.

Be sure to check that the damper is not stuck. It can be accessed through the engine compartment. If replacement is necessary, replace the standard plastic damper with an aluminum product. It is more durable.

Blowing cold

If the heater on your VAZ 2110 starts blowing cold air, you need to look for the reasons. The cause of the failure lies in the gear motor. A similar situation occurs in 9 out of 10 cases, so it is unlikely that you will have to look for alternative culprits.

Air flows with a broken damper

The gearmotor needs to be replaced. This is done as follows:

• Wipers are removed;
• The frill is dismantled;
• Unscrew the three screws that hold the gearmotor;
• The wiring is disconnected;
• A new one is installed in place of the failed device. Ask your assistant to switch the position modes of the regulator, and at this moment you will mount the gearmotor;
• The frill and wipers are returned to their place. Work is done.

But there is 1 case out of 10 that will force you to change the heater due to wear and tear of the old one. As the practice of VAZ 2110 owners shows, the heater from 2112 is best suited for replacement. Moreover, you can choose between two stove options - 2112-01 or 2112-02. The first one does not have an air filter, while the second option has one.

The windows fog up, the feet are not heated

It is not uncommon for VAZ models to have a problem when air flows normally from the stove, but it does not heat the feet and does not flow onto the windows.

Modification of air ducts

It would not be superfluous to install a pre-start heater. Due to it, the interior warms up faster.

Coolant leaks

The stove may not heat up due to the fact that the level of coolant, that is, coolant, decreases. Do not rush to add antifreeze to the tank. First, be sure to check for signs of leakage in the pipes and connections.

Problems with the stove on a VAZ 2110

The heater is very noisy

Many owners of the domestic “ten” are faced with a situation where a working stove makes a lot of noise. In this case, everything works fine, air flows spread throughout the cabin in the same way as the regulators are set.

The noise does not affect efficiency, but it becomes seriously annoying over time. Sometimes it seems that the stove will be covered with a copper basin, although it can make noise for a long time without consequences for the integrity of the device.

Let's try to figure out why it makes noise.

1. If the noise is similar to a squeal, or the sounds are sharp, check the fastening of the lower part of the stove. The fact is that fastening is carried out using hooks that can come off. This is what makes the noise.
2. The heater body sometimes gets damaged by the protrusions holding the retainer. In this case, the housing simply needs to be replaced with a new one.
3. If the fan itself is noisy, remove it, clean it, and check the condition of the electric motor.
4. The textolite washers, which are designed to prevent axial play of the fan, may also hum. Any low friction washers will be suitable as a replacement. For example, elements made of fluoroplastic. Be sure to lubricate the washer. Some people use regular machine oil, but it really only gives a temporary effect. The best lubricant in this case would be thick graphite grease or lithol.

Only hot air blows

Most often, the stove only blows hot air in a VAZ 2110 due to the fault of the car owner. If you recently bought a car, and in the summer you first tried the heater in cold air mode, you may notice that only a hot stream comes out of it.

The stove only blows hot air

Check to see if it is even there. Sometimes the micromotor gears wear out and the teeth do not touch each other. It is recommended to replace such motors. But some solve the problem differently - they remove the motor and turn on the damper manually. Yes, you can operate a car in this mode in winter.

But you should understand that because of this, the stove will constantly work in heating mode, driving hot air around the cabin. Therefore, switching to manual mode is a temporary measure, which should soon develop into a full-fledged replacement of the damper micromotor.

The heater on the VAZ 2110 is a very important unit that is responsible for the comfort and warmth of the driver and his passengers. Therefore, if signs of malfunction appear, do not delay stove repair. Especially if the cold season is approaching, and driving without heating will be very problematic.

How to repair the heating system of a VAZ 2112

An indispensable device for any car in cold weather is the stove. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the radiator heater on a VAZ 2112 with all the elements. The interior of the VAZ 2112 has built-in supply and exhaust ventilation. Air enters the cabin through special holes made in the windshield linings. Air can be supplied spontaneously or forcefully. In the second case, the supply is provided by the heater fan. It can exit the passenger compartment through cracks between the panels located inside the doors and holes in their ends. Built-in valves allow air to pass out and prevent it from getting in, which improves thermal insulation in the cabin. If necessary, the heater radiator preheats the air before entering the cabin.

What are the features of the VAZ 2112 heater radiator?

• The heater radiator of a VAZ 2112 car is located in a plastic casing under the dashboard in a horizontal position.
• The design consists of two rows of tubes made of aluminum with two plastic tanks pressed onto them. On the left there are two fittings: one for draining, the other for supplying coolant.
• The position of the dampers regulates the flow of part of the air that is taken in by the radiator. Its main flow passes by the radiator. If the damper is in its extreme positions, no air flows at all.
• A design feature is the absence of a tap, which should shut off the flow of coolant, which ensures constant heating of the heater radiator when the engine is running. In this case, the required temperature in the cabin is achieved faster, and the absence of a tap reduces the number of joints, places that can leak and create a lack of tightness in the entire system.

Dismantling the heater radiator of a VAZ 2112 car

If the heater radiator leaks, it must be replaced. Replacing the heater radiator in a VAZ 2112 begins with dismantling the entire dashboard and steering column. The work must be carried out carefully, which is due to the manufacture of most connectors from fragile plastic latches and clamps that can easily be broken. The radiator can be removed without dismantling the panel. Replacing the heater radiator on a VAZ 2112 is easier to do with the evaporator removed, but this requires preliminary depressurization of the main air conditioning system and removal of the refrigerant. The radiator removal instructions suggest:

Disconnect the battery.

• Disconnect the hoses installed on the heater bulkhead from the engine compartment side.
• Push the rubber seal on the partition into the interior of the cabin. To do this, you need to disconnect the edges of the seal from the edges of the hole in the partition.
• Remove the cover, the ashtray, the receiver, for the center pillar, and the front panels.
• Remove the heater and air conditioning control panel.
• Remove the electronic control unit without disconnecting it from the connector block.

Dismantling the control unit of a VAZ 2112 car

• Unscrew the bolts securing the left pillar to the base of the body and the bolts securing the ground wires; you do not need to completely remove the pillar.
• Unscrew the bolts that hold the right strut, then it is removed from the car.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the self-tapping screws that secure the stand to the front plastic panel from its reverse side.

• Remove the central air duct duct.
• Above the heater core, slightly shifted forward, there is a dividing damper, which must be removed along with the air duct section to increase the working space.
• Loosen the nuts on the studs that secure the left side of the evaporator housing.
• Unscrew the nut on the stud located near the upper pedal lever for controlling the throttle valve.
• Remove the bolts holding the lower right corner of the heater housing.
• Remove the heater lugs from the studs.
• Move part of the air conditioner evaporator housing to the side.
• Remove the heater from under the front panel; its general appearance is shown in the photo.

General view of the heater of the VAZ 2112 car

• Remove the clamps holding the heater pipes to the housing.
• Remove the radiator from the housing.