The operation of the injection system has always been a weak point of VAZ cars. Low-quality gasoline, counterfeit consumables, inept repairs done by yourself or unprofessional service - the car stalls for any of these reasons. On older cars of the Samara-1 generation, a similar problem was solved by adjusting the carburetor and ignition. Less commonly, replacing the fuel pump. The electronic injector of the VAZ 2114 is many times more reliable than a carburetor; it starts and works in any weather without causing any trouble.
But if the injection machine still stalls, there can be many reasons for this.
Fuel pump
Without a stable fuel supply, normal engine operation is impossible. To ensure the engine starts, two factors are sufficient - the presence of a spark and fuel. The fuel pump is responsible for supplying gasoline. In model 2114 cars it is located under the rear seat and mounted directly into the tank.
There may be several reasons why the fuel pump failed:
- Clogged strainer on the fuel pump. In addition to the main fuel filter under the car tank, the pump design includes a mesh to filter fuel from debris. Over time, it becomes clogged, which is why the fuel does not flow in full;
- There is damage in the wiring or the fuel pump is turned off due to a loose connector. The problem can be solved by cleaning the contacts and checking the connection of the chips;
- Overheating of the electric pump is another cause of the stalling engine problem. It may overheat due to short-term and often repeated contact failures in the power supply circuits.
When looking for an answer to the question “VAZ 2114 starts and immediately stalls - what is the reason?”, the fuel pump should be checked first.
Why the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 does not work. A massive problem in our automobile industry.
The search for possible reasons why the VAZ 2114 instrument panel does not work periodically worries one or another owner of cars of this model. It’s clear that if you don’t see a single parameter on the dashboard, you can only drive, as they say, by touch. True, there are certain specialists who still managed to somehow crawl to the base without all the evidence, but somehow I don’t want to follow their example. And is it necessary to create additional troubles and the risk of accidents on the road? So the majority of those to whom this incident happened still get to work (or wherever they were going) by public transport in order to return to solving the problem in the evening on their own or with the help of a familiar auto repairman. Why does the VAZ 2114 instrument panel not work? Offhand, we can name several reasons. However, they may not exhaust the entire list, since the individual characteristics of the car may appear. We’ll try to talk about this and many other equally interesting things in our article today. The most common breakdown Before digging into the inside of the car, check how securely the ground wire leading to the front panel is fixed. A restless passenger in front often simply pulls him out of his place with his feet. To prevent the situation from repeating itself, after fastening it is worth insulating the wire from reach. The situation is a little more complicated. Its signs are very characteristic:
- All indicators do not work: speedometer, tachometer, odometer, fuel level recorder, coolant temperature sensor;
- The rest of the equipment - optics, radio, even the panel backlight - turn on normally and do not act up;
- The ignition works properly, the car does not refuse to start;
- Fuse F3 is almost 100% blown. It is located in the mounting block and will have to be changed. But first you need to find out why it was covered, otherwise the new one installed will suffer the same fate. In most cases, a short circuit is to blame for burnout. On well-used VAZ-2114, the fuse often blows after each wash. Instead of carrying a spare one, you need to figure out where moisture is getting into it.
If the fuse is intact, this is not a reason to immediately leave it alone. It would be a good idea to remove it and check the contacts: if the fuse is live, but the terminals are oxidized, the circuit will be interrupted, and the device will stop showing any signs of life. The next weak link: This is the ignition relay. It is located to the left of the steering column, fixed on a pin, so to speak, upside down. You need to remove it and try to make direct contact with the wires. With obvious signs of revival on the instrument panel, it immediately becomes clear that the time has come to change the relay. A difficult case Until now, situations have been sorted out when the torpedo still showed some signs of life. If non-working power windows, turn signals, and windshield wipers have been added to the devices, the issue is no longer a matter of relays and fuses. There may be 2 options:
- The contacts on the ignition switch are burnt. In principle, after installing the relay (even on the VAZ-2109 version), this problem rarely arises. However, the possibility remains. The lock is removed, the contacts are checked and, if necessary, cleaned;
- Mounting block. There may be burnt tracks on its board. The only thing that will save you is replacing it with a new one. However, the cost is by no means astronomical, and the installation is available as a standalone option.
Special situations General signs do not always indicate specific breakdowns. There may be exceptions. If individual devices refuse to work, it is quite possible that this is their personal problem. You'll have to parse the specific pointer. A gear could be cracked in it, which should be replaced. Also, why doesn’t the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 work? If the fuel gauge and tachometer are capricious (either they function, or they don’t react at all), the contacts and the mounting block are normal - you need to do a small check. Reset is pressed and held, and the ignition is turned on at the same time. Raised arrows indicate the need for further searches. Lifeless - that microcracks have appeared in the shield itself. You will have to remove it and examine all soldering and traces under a magnifying glass. In principle, these are all the main options. If calling all the listed components and parts did not lead to the revival of the instrument panel, your case is individual, and you will have to determine the situation in the company of an experienced auto mechanic.
Fuel filter
Another important element in the fuel supply system to the engine is the filter. Low quality fuel and untimely replacement of the filter lead to its clogging. Gasoline enters the cylinders intermittently, which manifests itself in problems with starting and uneven engine operation.
The inconvenient location of the filter element makes it difficult to replace it, so many drivers postpone this procedure until next time. A clogged gasoline filter can also cause a loss of engine power. The problem is solved by replacement. You can also clean the tank as a preventative measure.
Important! When replacing the filter, pay attention to its direction. There are marks on the body of the part that show how to correctly install the element. Also, do not lose the copper rings to securely secure the tubes to the filter.
Useful tips
Additionally, experts advise turning your attention, when all other options have already been excluded, to the timing belt - when replacing it, the technicians could have set the phases incorrectly.
In addition, a banal belt break or excessive rotation is likely.
Very exceptional situations include a skewed cylinder head (for example, due to overheating), impaired compression in the cylinders and misaligned rings.
One should not discount such a banal reason as low-quality fuel: in places far from cities, where there is nothing to choose from, cunning entrepreneurs can pour in a completely indecent mixture.
The engine will not start immediately from such gasoline, which will serve as an additional diagnostic sign, and there can only be one solution - drain the low-quality fuel and fill it with normal gasoline. In such situations, however, there is nowhere to take it from, so you will have to rely on a tow truck or compassionate motorists who will stop to help.
Ignition module
As noted, in addition to the normal supply of fuel, a spark is required for the engine to operate. One of the elements in the car’s design that is responsible for sparking is the ignition module.
This element controls the ignition coil, and also sets the ignition timing and, if necessary, changes it. If the module malfunctions, the following symptoms are observed:
- “Trippling” of the motor;
- Misfires and error display in the on-board computer;
- The "Check Engine" light is on on the dashboard;
- Paired cylinders (1 and 4 or 2 and 3) do not work;
- Floating speed and difficulty starting a cold engine.
If a VAZ 2114 (injector) starts and immediately stalls, you should immediately check the ignition module for a malfunction. To check the version with a faulty module, you should install a known working MZ and make sure that it is faulty. If the problem continues, you should start checking the sensors.
Self-diagnosis in the garage
If you have problems with the operation of the injection system, you should first diagnose the ECU. In this regard, the owners of the VAZ 2114 are more fortunate with the German VDO instrumentation - it has a self-diagnosis mode. On cars with a dashboard from Schetmash there is no such functionality.
VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114
Working with the self-diagnosis mode on the VDO panel is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- With the ignition off, hold the odometer button for several seconds;
- turn the ignition to position “1”, release the button;
- if the arrows start running on the display, everything is fine, press once (information message about the firmware version) and release, with a second press an error code will appear;
- You can reset the error by holding the button until “0” appears.
Injection problems that cause the car to stall can be indicated by the numbers 1 (ECU error), 14,15 (coolant sensor errors), 22, 23 (DPS errors), 33, 34 (MAF errors), 42 (ignition malfunction) , 44, 45 (lean or rich mixture). The disadvantage of self-diagnosis on the VAZ 2114 is that if there are several errors, the system sums up the codes. Thus, the number “22” may mean a TPS error or low on-board voltage and a coolant sensor error (8 + 14).
For more accurate diagnostics of the injector, you need to immediately contact a service center or purchase a diagnostic scanner (it costs about 1000 rubles).
If you have another car, you can find the problematic sensor by replacing the sensitive elements one by one with known good ones.
Sensors
In injection versions of VAZ cars, the engine design requires the presence of several important sensors. If the car does not start well when hot, the problem may be in one of the following sensors:
Failure of one of the elements is a problem for the driver. Let's look at the symptoms of malfunction of each of them.
The throttle valve is responsible for the flow of atmospheric air into the cylinder group, from which the fuel mixture is subsequently formed. The throttle position sensor transmits readings to the car's computer, which allows it to maintain stable engine operation.
Other reasons and their solutions
Another reason may be the wedge of the XX valve. This problem can be temporarily solved by simply tightening the throttle cable a little. Then see what happens. The notorious XX sensor can also be involved here. It also contains more than a dozen problems, but most of them can be solved by simple washing.
It is the sensor that is washed
, or to be more precise, its components in the form of a needle and its hole where it enters. Checking its functionality is quite simple, you need to remove the sensor itself, activate the connector, then disconnect the battery for a short period of time, then connect it again and turn on the ignition, you will see how the needle begins to make forward-return movements.
Another reason could be the battery terminal. In order for everything to be in order, it needs to be reset, so that it can incorrectly transfer data to the engine control settings.
This procedure resets all system settings, and it will again learn to gain and maintain the correct idle speed, and only 3-5 trips may be enough for this. This does not always happen, but still, such a process is called “self-learning”.
It is also possible, and even necessary, to check the injectors; it is possible that the problem lies in their contamination or even technical wear, and, as a result, in their malfunction. Read the article “How to clean injectors”.
Washing everything and everyone should be done exclusively with WD-40 washing liquid.
Fuel quality
One of the reasons is low quality gasoline, which does not meet the octane requirements for the car. The driver needs to remember where and what kind of gasoline the vehicle was last filled with. If it is indicated that the motor should run on AI-95 or AI-98, pouring AI-92 into the tank is dangerous.
The problem is caused by fuel - when you press the gas pedal fully, the speed does not pick up, and when the clutch is depressed, the power unit stalls. The situation is explained by the weak spark produced by poor fuel.
To fix the problem you need to:
- Drain fuel.
- Wash the motor.
- Clean all fuel system pipes.
- Change the fuel filter.
Car engines are sensitive to fuel quality.
What do drivers recommend?
Drivers share their experiences with each other, so you should also listen to the recommendations of car enthusiasts.
All drivers claim that it is prohibited to disconnect the terminals from the battery, especially from the injectors. A low charge level has a bad effect on starting the engine. The fuel pump is unstable. The device will not have the necessary pressure for uninterrupted operation of the system, so the fuel supply will be intermittent. In addition to the basic rules for operating a car, while driving and repairing their car, each driver gains additional knowledge and experience. Such nuances are learned as a result of mistakes made by the owner of the vehicle.
From the above, it becomes clear that there are many reasons why a car may not start. Determine the breakdown immediately
, not even an experienced car mechanic can do. Therefore, if you feel that you cannot cope on your own, feel free to contact a service station. If you still decide to figure it out on your own, then inspect every centimeter of your car. Step by step you will discover the true source of the problem.
Throttle valve
The cause of the breakdown is contamination of the throttle valve. The car's response to the gas pedal is late, the speed is uneven, the engine stalls, the part needs to be washed. Necessary:
- Buy a special product at a car store.
- Remove the damper.
- Rinse thoroughly.
- Install back.
If these steps do not help, the problem is related to the power supply (see below).
On foreign-made cars, the throttle damper could fail. Then, when you release the gas, the engine will stall. The part is responsible for returning the damper to its normal position, eliminating dips.
To check the damper you need:
- Warm up the engine to operating temperature.
- Open the valve yourself.
- Let go quickly.
The part should return almost to the limit, pause and not reach the end so quickly. If no deceleration is observed, the damper is faulty. It needs to be replaced, repair is impossible.
Does the car stall when you let off the gas? List of possible problems
Surely every car owner has experienced such an unpleasant situation when the car stalls when releasing the gas. This problem is one of several most common. To begin with, I would like to clarify why the engine may be plugged during a reset. The very first and most common problem is the banal clogging of the gap in the throttle valve. Another equally popular problem is the dying of the regulator, and they can break quite often. It’s not uncommon to hear from people that it got to the point where they had to completely change it. Or some people benefit from a very serious and deep flush.
Idle speed control
On VAZ models with an engine of 8 or 16 valves and on foreign cars, the power unit starts up, then stalls due to IAC. The wrong name is idle speed sensor, the correct name is regulator.
The device monitors engine speed and maintains it. At idle, the engine stops working, or uneven speed is observed - the part is faulty. When the gearbox is switched to neutral, the engine stalls - it is worth changing the regulator.
Sometimes similar symptoms are observed when the throttle valve is dirty. It is recommended to clean it first.
Problems and their solutions
The car stalls when you let off the gas - but what exactly lies behind this problem? Everything is quite simple, after reaching a certain speed, the foot is removed from the gas pedal and the car simply stalls. With all this, when the ignition is applied and at idle, everything works more than with a bang.
Despite the advice given above, the problem may not be solved, since they are general preventive measures for a stalled engine. As for the problem itself, it’s worth paying attention to several sensors.
Air filter
Replacing filters in a car is an important maintenance procedure that many people forget about. As a result, the filter becomes clogged and the operation of the power unit and systems is disrupted. If there is severe contamination or damage, the engine will run unevenly and jerkily—it will stall when you press or release the gas pedal.
Attention! The engine stalls in the same way if the XX regulator fails.
To verify the malfunction, you need to dismantle the filter and inspect for damage. If dirty or worn, replacement is necessary.
Problems and their solutions
The car stalls when you let off the gas - but what exactly lies behind this problem? Everything is quite simple, after reaching a certain speed, the foot is removed from the gas pedal and the car simply stalls. With all this, when the ignition is applied and at idle, everything works more than with a bang.
Despite the advice given above, the problem may not be solved, since they are general preventive measures for a stalled engine. As for the problem itself, it’s worth paying attention to several sensors.
Fuel filter
A dirty fuel filter is another reason why your car stalls when driving. The part is installed on all vehicles. The problem with the device occurs among owners of used cars. The filter is forgotten and rarely changed.
Over time, the dirt fills up, it is difficult for gasoline to pass into the ramp, and there is no combustion chamber. Fuel will arrive intermittently, and then may not arrive. If the filter is clogged, the car stalls when you press the gas pedal.
You need to dismantle the fuel pump, remove the filter and install a new one. There is no point in cleaning it - the cost of the part is small.
Does the car stall when you let off the gas? List of possible problems
Surely every car owner has experienced such an unpleasant situation when the car stalls when releasing the gas. This problem is one of several most common. To begin with, I would like to clarify why the engine may be plugged during a reset. The very first and most common problem is the banal clogging of the gap in the throttle valve. Another equally popular problem is the dying of the regulator, and they can break quite often. It’s not uncommon to hear from people that it got to the point where they had to completely change it. Or some people benefit from a very serious and deep flush.
Fuel pump
Due to a faulty fuel pump, the car may operate normally for a while, then stall. Interruptions begin in the mechanism, fuel does not enter the chambers or arrives in small quantities. Initially, the engine will run at idle, as the speed increases, it will stall, and when the pump finally fails, it will not start.
The fuel pump is easy to repair, but the breakdown may recur, so it is better to replace it. This unit is located under the rear seat.
In summer, the fuel pump may operate intermittently due to fuel boiling. This happens on classic Soviet cars. To get rid of the problem, you have to turn off the engine and wait until the fuel cools down.
VAZ injection engines
In injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, both 8-valve and with a timing belt with 16 valves, it is more difficult to identify the cause of the decrease in power due to the more complex design of the main systems.
Supply system
Any injector consists of a mechanical executive part and an electronic control part, and problems can arise in both of them, which will lead to a drop in power.
Let's look at the mechanical part first. Here, cravings can be influenced by:
- Severely clogged mesh filter on the fuel pump;
- Decrease in fuel pump performance due to wear;
- The fine filter is dirty;
- Malfunction of the fuel rail pressure regulator;
- Clogged injectors;
- Fuel filter dirty;
- Air leak in the manifold.
In general, almost every element of the injector executive part can be the culprit for a decrease in dynamics.
The situation is approximately the same in the electronic component.
The operation of the engine with the injector is controlled by an electronic unit, which constantly monitors the parameters through sensors installed on different systems.
The number of these tracking elements is considerable and the breakdown of any of them leads to the fact that the ECU incorrectly evaluates the indicators on the basis of which it controls the executive part.
Thus, the lambda probe, DPKV, mass air flow sensor, DPZ, phase sensors, detonation sensors and coolant temperature sensors in the event of a breakdown lead to a decrease in power, so you will have to check all of them in search of the cause.
Ignition and exhaust system
As for the ignition system of injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112 and others, the reasons may be:
- Candles;
- High voltage wires;
- Ignition module.
Another possible cause could be a misalignment of the generator drive pulley (with the ring gear).
IMPORTANT TO KNOW: What is an adsorber in a car. Because of this, the DPKV readings are disrupted, as a result the operation of the ignition system is disrupted, which leads to a drop in traction
Because of this, the DPKV readings are disrupted, as a result the operation of the ignition system is disrupted, which leads to a drop in traction.
In injection engines, the exhaust gas removal system more often creates this problem than in a carburetor car, and all due to the use of a catalyst.
The element's honeycombs have a small cross-section, so they become clogged quite quickly, which leads to exhaust gases “crushing” the engine.
Also, if the engine does not pull, check the lambda probe.
Visiting a car service center
In a situation where you specifically do not have enough experience in car maintenance, there is a fairly high probability of aggravating the problem by unqualified intervention in the operation of various on-board systems.
It is important to objectively assess your own capabilities, and if you don’t have faith in yourself, then it is better to entrust the repairs to specialists. In a situation where it turns out that the problem is not particularly serious, they will not take much money from you. But in any case, you will be able to avoid many of the troubles associated with unqualified attempts to repair the vehicle.
Troubleshooting options
It is clear that if any emergency situations arise with the motor, it is advisable to contact a specialized service. However, this procedure is not always possible. Therefore, it is worth knowing how to independently diagnose the main systems and key parts.
Throttle valve and assembly
When the speed drops at idle and the car stalls, you need to pay close attention to the details of the throttle assembly. Long-term operation of the car on low-quality fuel and untimely maintenance of the air filter can lead to malfunctions of the throttle valve. It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment
It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment.
Throttle valve VAZ 2112
The problem can be solved by cleaning the system. The throttle is cleaned using carburetor cleaners. Using a compressor, you need to blow out the damper under the pressure of compressed air. It is not recommended to touch the screws located inside and on the side. If cleaning does not correct the situation, the device must be replaced. This operation is not particularly difficult.
Crankcase malfunction
There is an oil trap in the crankcase ventilation system of the engine. Its contamination can also lead to interruptions in engine operation. Crankcase gases do not allow the engine to function normally, the speed fluctuates, the internal combustion engine stalls.
Sensors
If a gasoline car stalls at idle, then one of the sensors is likely to break. In injection cars with an electronic engine control system, the engine usually starts normally, but then it stops working. It's worth checking here:
- Electronic car indicators;
- DRХХ – device that regulates idle speed;
- Air flow meter (air intake in the carburetor);
- Sensor indicating the position of the throttle curtain.
Electronic control unit in VAZ 2114
Interruptions in the operation of any sensors immediately affect the behavior of the electronics - errors appear in the car control unit. The “brains” of the machine receive unreliable information. It is not transmitted correctly to the engine. It starts working with parameters that do not correspond to reality. Self-testing of this device is not possible. You need to contact a professional for service.
Diagnostics of mass air flow sensor
The idle air control device is usually to blame for engine malfunction when the car idles poorly. But you pressed the gas pedal and the engine started. In the latest VAZ modifications, error information appears on the instrument panel.
When diagnosing, you must use a multimeter. If a part is faulty, it is recommended to replace it with a new one. All sensors are reasonably priced. It is better to start checking with parts that have a simpler design. Then gradually move on to complex devices. We must not forget that the problem may lie not only in the sensors themselves. It is also necessary to check the wiring to them and the presence of stable contact.
Carburetor
If the VAZ carburetor stalls at idle speed, then the jets may become clogged. Low-quality gasoline, deposits from the gas tank, contain small particles of debris. They can easily disrupt the operation of the fuel injection system. It is worth replacing the filter in front of the carburetor and cleaning the device itself. The dispensing part is cleaned using a cleaning solvent, which is sold in aerosol cans. Another reason is often a prolonged lack of carburetor adjustment.
In a mechanical fuel pump of carburetor cars, the filter mesh may be clogged with dirt. This reduces the performance of the device. Wear of the membrane and its destruction often leads to clogged carburetor channels.
Injector
A situation that often arises is that various Lada models, as well as the VAZ 2110 injector stalls at idle. It is necessary to check the fuel pump strainer for clogging. This is a common problem with injection machines. It is better to immediately replace the part with a working one.
Filter problem
If the VAZ 2112 stalls at idle, then the fuel filter may be dirty. This also applies to other models of the concern. Generally, it is not practical to clean it. The part must be replaced. The same should be done with a dirty air filter. Low throughput leads to the fact that the air-fuel mixture simply floods the spark plugs.
Self-checking will not always lead to a positive result. It is often more practical to identify the cause of unstable operation of the internal combustion engine at a car service center. It will cost more, but specialized diagnostics will prevent more serious damage to the car.
Stalls on a hot VAZ 21099, injector
VAZ 21099i, when heated to t=95, stalls and does not start until it cools down almost completely. At the same time, I found out that there was no spark and there was no voltage going to the injectors. The starter turns normally. What could be the reason?
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Is there no control voltage on the injectors or a common +12? The main relay turns on when the ignition is turned on, does the fuel pump work?
The ignition module is faulty, it overheats and fails, if the 2112 module is an old model, they are very sensitive to voltage drops.
The voltage at the injectors must be measured relative to the ground, they have a total of +12 volts, and the control voltage comes from the ECU (the minus comes from the ECU). On the ignition module + 12 is also relative to ground.
Does the pump run as usual for 3-4 seconds and turn off? First, check all the masses on the body and engine, not only those under the hood, but also those in the cabin. Second, check the connector on the crankshaft sensor, and the sensor itself (the method is described on the internet). If there is no signal from the dpkv, the computer will not send a signal to either the injectors or the ignition module.
Of course it could fly out, but then why does the spark disappear? It seems to me that there is some kind of general problem, for example, voltage loss. Have you checked the presence of voltage +12 relative to ground, where I described above? You also need to check the supply voltage to the ECU, one goes to it constantly from the battery, the other after turning the key. So far I can’t even connect this with the temperature, but if the ignition module is faulty, try unscrewing it from the engine, it’s possible that the problem will appear sooner or later.
I don't quite understand where you measured. You need to measure between the first and fourth and between the second and third terminals on the spark plugs. That is, the windings are 1-4 and 2-3. I won’t tell you the size, just a few kilo-ohms.
There must be megohms between the windings, that is, if the probes are placed at 1 and 2-3, or for example, 2 and 1-4, the resistance should be very high.
But all these measurements are relative, you cannot determine the turn circuit, a cold winding can show one thing, but a hot winding can go wrong.
As for the module input, I don’t know how to diagnose it with an ohmmeter, there is an electronic circuit inside the module and the ohmmeter doesn’t work.
I don’t remember what the symptoms were, but on the two-wheeler I installed an insulator between the engine and the module, and I transferred the heat from the module to an aluminum plate. I can attach a photo later if interested.
Before this, I replaced two modules, which apparently failed due to overheating. Although the plate also heats up, the hand holds it calmly, unlike the heated engine. That’s why I wrote to you above, try to move the module away from the engine so that it doesn’t heat up.
Solved the problem! It was in vain that I paid attention to the previously stripped insulation on the wires going to the injectors; I thought that due to their contact with each other, the ECU was damaged and therefore the spark disappeared even when heating. It turned out that the ignition module was at fault.
I do not agree that measuring at the input terminals does not make sense; it is the RESISTANCE OF THESE OUTPUT THAT PROVIDES INFORMATION TO THE ECU ABOUT THE SERVICEABILITY OR MALFUNCTION OF THE MODULE.
I repeat once again that the resistance on two showed a little more than 17 kOhm (if you look from above, these are the first two on the left), and on the new module the resistance is more than 2 mOhm.
When heated to a certain temperature, the input resistance of the module dropped to a certain value, at which the ECU concluded that the module circuit was short-circuited and turned off the supply of control voltage to it and to the injectors, apparently to prevent gasoline vapors from accumulating in the muffler.
Replaced the ignition module, drove it for two days, started without problems! Thanks to everyone who responded, your advice helped me find a solution to my problem!
