Extraneous sounds during vehicle operation are very disturbing. It is better to identify the causes of malfunctions as quickly as possible and eliminate them at the initial stage, otherwise car repairs may become more expensive. Let's figure out why noises/clicks may appear when turning the steering wheel.
The steering design of modern Lada cars (Priora, Kalina, Granta, Largus, Vesta, Niva and XRAY) is practically the same. Therefore, the possible causes of malfunctions are similar:
- The tie rod ball joint nuts are loose (No. 2 in photo No. 1).
- The gap between the steering rack stop and the nut has been increased (photo No. 2). Tighten the steering rack.
- The steering rack fastening has become loose (No. 1, 19, 21 photo No. 3).
- The outer constant velocity joints (CV joints) are worn out (No. 1 photo No. 4).
- Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the front wheel bearings No. 3 photo No. 5 or loosening of the hub nut No. 6)
- The fastening parts of the front suspension have become loose, photo No. 6 (fastening the stabilizer bar to the body, the front suspension steering knuckle to the strut, the nuts of silent blocks of the suspension arms, braces, strut support).
- The shock absorber strut support bearing (No. 4 photo No. 7) or the rubber support element is worn out.
- The suspension spring broke (No. 6 Photo No. 7).
- The wheel mounting bolts have become loose, photo No. 8.
According to the AvtoVAZ technical bulletin dated December 15, 2015, the cause of a squeak when the steering wheel rotates may be an insulating gasket that needs to be cut.
Have you encountered a knocking or squeaking sound when turning the steering wheel? What was the cause of your problem? Also, the cause of extraneous noise when turning the steering wheel may be play in the crosspiece of the steering shaft or a gearless electric power steering.
About the problem
Some time ago I noticed a creaking sound when turning the steering wheel in a position close to maximum eversion. At first I thought it was the EUR, but, having put a friend behind the wheel, I got out of the car and began to look for the source of the squeak. The sound was heard as loudly as possible from the side of the wheel (in the area of the front shock absorbers), and on the right the sound was more pronounced.
Why power steering is no longer used in new cars
Power steering has long been part of the automotive industry. Such equipment allows motorists to maneuver the steering wheel without any problems. Older models did not have power steering, so steering was much harder. All power steering can be divided into types. They differ in type of design and principle of operation. Previously, hydraulic boosters gained great popularity, and then they began to be replaced by electric boosters. Now the pressing question is why automakers no longer install hydraulic boosters on new models.
Electric power steering can be combined with various autopilot systems
Electric power steering on modern vehicles has many advantages over hydraulic power steering. And this is explained by several factors. Firstly, such devices have less weight. Secondly, they do not consume a lot of energy. In addition, they are distinguished by a convenient layout and the absence of the need to carry out routine maintenance work.
Electric boosters can be combined with various autopilot systems. This may include automatic parking or a system for keeping the car in one lane. Recently, such designs have gained another advantage - they are cheaper to produce. As you can see, electric power steering has a whole list of advantages. Despite this, many motorists note the shortcomings and refuse to use such systems in their vehicles. As a rule, criticism of electric boosters can be heard from the older generation of motorists.
A more modern type of amplifier is spreading in the passenger car market. Despite this, hydraulic boosters are still in demand
The main drawback, according to many, is inaccurate and artificial feedback. However, developments do not stand still and experts are constantly trying to improve electric amplifiers, so such problems have long been solved. A more modern type of amplifier is spreading in the passenger car market. Despite this, hydraulic boosters are still in demand. They are used for trucks and special equipment. This is due to the fact that the hydraulic booster is able to withstand higher loads.
If you prefer carefree movement from one point to another, then you should choose electric power steering
Motorists who are accustomed to driving vehicles comfortably and feeling feedback from the car should pay attention to classic hydraulic boosters. Such a device does not require expensive maintenance. The car owner should only periodically check the fluid level in the system and monitor the condition of the oil in the expansion tank. If any breakdowns occur in the amplifier, you will not need to spend a large amount of money on repairs. If you prefer carefree movement from one point to another, then you should choose electric power steering. Such equipment requires less attention. The owner will not need to monitor the fluid in the system. Note that cars equipped with electric power steering are less responsive to driver inputs. This does not mean that the car does not obey and drives as it wants - there is simply no feedback from the steering wheel.
Bottom line. Electric power steering is gradually replacing hydraulic power steering from the market. And this is explained by the advantage of the former over the latter. They do not require maintenance and have a convenient layout.
Tags: Priora sedan
Comments 25
listen, what kind of photo is this?
Thanks everyone, I fixed everything, it was a matter of loose bolts near the wipers, tightened it up and everything was quiet)) once again, THANK YOU all so much!
For 2 months I racked my brains and eliminated my suspicions (I glued the pillar, took off the mirror, re-glued the door trim, smeared the awnings) and, strangely enough, all this helped for 5, 10 minutes of driving and again a pain in the ass, until I tightened the screws securing the plastic under the wipers and now the miracle has happened - the long-awaited silence
Got it, thanks, I'll give it a spin! =)
I also had sound in this place, sometimes there, sometimes not. I was scratching my head about what it could be, but it turned out that under the hood, in the area where the support is screwed on, there is a tube, or rather two, there is a clamp on it and on this clamp there is a bolt, and so it was rubbing against the iron from where the stand with the support comes out. I filed the bolt and everything was gone - now there is silence.
but I don’t have a photo where I can even look, but I’m just not good with cars! Visually, I should at least look where to look!
a friend of mine removed the glass and put me new velvet covers from some foreign car under the door trim; they press the glass tightly and don’t scratch
I understand, but could you find out from which one if it’s not difficult?
on Priora they are on sale for 500 rubles 4pcs
The noise I had on this side was coming from the mirror (I fixed it) the noise on the same side was when the window was open and the glass was hanging (it was fixed) the noise from the side of the shell was rubbing against the dashboard when it was closed (I fixed it) the right pillar rattled in it, plastic clips were placed through the seal ( fixed it) but most importantly, the door itself as a whole was rattling and rustling and the sound was coming from the top of the torpedo, it glued the whole door, there was deathly silence)
Wow, the robots have done a lot of work! Thanks a lot!
The noise I had on this side was coming from the mirror (I fixed it) the noise on the same side was when the window was open and the glass was hanging (it was fixed) the noise from the side of the shell was rubbing against the dashboard when it was closed (I fixed it) the right pillar rattled in it, plastic clips were placed through the seal ( fixed it) but most importantly, the door itself as a whole was rattling and rustling and the sound was coming from the top of the torpedo, it glued the whole door, there was deathly silence)
How did you fix the problem with the glass that they were hanging out?
well, it’s on clips, pry it off with a screwdriver and that’s it
It was on this side that the pillar panel creaked for me. It touched the bottom of the torpedo and made an terribly disgusting sound. It helped to tuck a folded piece of paper in there =)
+1 I had this happen too, I cured it with a small piece of madeleine
ugh, fuck, I look at the main photo and think: “this is a dude, he cut off the roof for the sake of a squeak. can we make a convertible?” It’s a good thing I looked at the floor, otherwise I would definitely have been constantly analyzing this thought))
There is the same problem, only this sound may not be there for a couple of months, then it will be fixed for a day and again there will be no sound for a week, but it is not constant, so I did not look for the reason, but I will take note of the comments)
I also got it not so long ago, but it’s just terrifying! =)
In general, I had a problem from the street about the windshield, plastic scuffling in the lower corner!
Basic faults
The electromechanical power steering system of the Lada Vesta has its own shortcomings, which then do not manifest themselves in the best way - sometimes even while driving. By the way, the EUR Vesta has a peculiarity - at speeds above 70 km/h it may seem that the car is “floating”, but in fact it is the sensors that react so sensitively to steering movements.
When you start the engine, the yellow steering wheel icon with an exclamation mark will light up on the dashboard for three seconds. This is normal - a normal sensor check. But if after three seconds the icon does not burn out, this will mean that the system has failed, and you should not start driving - at a minimum, you should connect to the diagnostic connector to find out what the problem is.
The electric booster may turn off while driving due to a short circuit in the wiring. It is usually preceded by a slight knocking sound in the steering wheel - if you feel this kind of rattling, be prepared to slow down and stop. Disabling the EUR while driving at a decent speed leads to the steering wheel spontaneously turning to the side, and the car can eventually slide into the adjacent or even oncoming lane.
A shorted wiring is caused by the fact that the harness under the hood is not protected from moving parts and ends up rubbing against the steering driveshaft. You can prevent the problem if you remove the battery terminal, harness and cover the wires with a corrugated tube - both from ingress of large amounts of moisture and from mechanical damage. If a breakdown occurs, replace the blown EUR fuse.
If you cannot diagnose it yourself, contact an authorized dealer and insist on a real check. As the experience of Vesta owners shows, the official dealer checked the suspension, released the car with assurances that everything was in order, and did not look for the real reason for the rattling in the steering wheel. Defend your point of view so that the defective power steering unit is checked and replaced.
Lada Vesta cars are equipped with a steering system with a safety steering column, an electromechanical booster and an adjustment mechanism for tilt and reach.
A rack-and-pinion steering mechanism with a constant gear ratio is mounted on the front suspension subframe.
The steering drive consists of two horizontal steering rods and levers on the steering knuckles. The length of each steering linkage rod is adjusted by rotating the inner tip and secured with a locknut.
Figure 1-1 – Steering: 1 – driver airbag module (MNAPB); 2 – steering wheel; 3 – block of steering column switches; 4 – lower steering column casing; 5 – ignition switch; 6 – upper steering column casing;
Steering column (Fig. 5.1) with a mechanism for adjusting its tilt position and an anti-theft device in the ignition switch that blocks the steering shaft from turning. The steering column brackets, attached with nuts to the brackets on the body, are pivotally connected to the steering column itself, this allows you to change the angle of the column.
Rice. 5.1. Steering column with electric power steering: 1 – intermediate shaft; 2 – upper cardan joint of the intermediate shaft; 3 – electric amplifier; 4 – steering column position lock lever; 5 – bracket for fastening the steering column casing; 6 – movable part of the steering column;
7 – splined tip of the steering shaft; 8 – ignition switch (lock); 9 – steering column adjustment mechanism; 10 – bracket for fastening the adjustment mechanism; 11 – fixed part of the steering column; 12 – bracket for fastening the electric amplifier; 13 – electric amplifier control unit; 14 – lower cardan joint of the intermediate shaft
On the movable part of the steering column there are controls for headlights, turn indicators, washer and windshield wiper.
Electromechanical power steering (electric power steering, EMURU) reduces the force on the steering wheel, thereby making it easier to control the car. If the electric booster fails, the car retains full controllability, but the force on the steering wheel increases slightly.
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The electric booster works as follows. When the driver turns the steering wheel, a moment occurs on the steering input shaft, resulting in a mismatch between the input and output shafts. An elastic element (torsion bar) located between the shafts is twisted at an angle proportional to the magnitude of the moment. The magnitude of this angle is determined by a torque sensor.
When the torque on the input shaft exceeds the minimum specified value, the electric amplifier control unit sends a control signal to the electric motor windings to create the required additional torque on the shaft. The signal to the windings is supplied taking into account the signals from the rotor position sensor and the torque sensor. As the vehicle speed increases, the torque created by the EMURU decreases proportionally.
In the instrument cluster there is a fault indicator for the electric power steering (orange). The warning light comes on when the ignition is turned on and should go out after the engine is started. If the warning light comes on while the engine is running, it indicates a malfunction of the electric power steering; the electric power steering is switched off and the force on the steering wheel increases sharply. In this case, you need to contact a car service as soon as possible to diagnose and repair the electric amplifier.
The electric amplifier may also turn off for reasons not related to a malfunction of the amplifier mechanism itself:
– when the on-board network voltage decreases;
– at low idle speed of the car engine;
– in the absence of a signal about the vehicle speed;
– when the car is parked for more than 5 minutes with the engine running, whose crankshaft speed is above 1500 rpm.
The intermediate shaft is connected to the output shaft of the electric booster and to the steering shaft by cardan joints. The intermediate shaft consists of two parts, upper and lower, connected by splines. In the event of a frontal collision of the car with any obstacle, the lower part of the intermediate shaft enters the upper part, which makes it possible to reduce the length of the intermediate shaft and thereby cause less harm to the driver.
For greater safety, the axis of the steering shaft is shifted relative to the axis of the steering mechanism: in the event of a frontal collision of a car, the lower part of the intermediate shaft, due to universal joints, moves relative to the upper one, which allows the shaft to “fold” sideways.
The steering mechanism is rack and pinion type with a constant gear ratio and is fixed to the front suspension subframe with rigid brackets 10 (Fig. 5.2). Carter 5 of the steering mechanism is cast from aluminum alloy. The crankcase contains a helical drive gear (pinion shaft), which meshes with the rack. The rack has oblique teeth.
Rice. 5.2. Steering mechanism: 1 – outer tie rod end; 2 – hexagon of thrust; 3 – thrust cover; 4 – steering gear shaft; 5 – steering gear housing; 6 – hinge of the outer rod end; 7 – lock nut of the rod end;
The steering drive includes two integral tie rods and swing arms on the front suspension knuckles.
The tie rods are attached to the steering rack and to the steering knuckles of the front suspension with ball joints. The steering rods are secured against rotation in the tips 1 (see Fig. 5.2) by locknuts 7. By rotating the steering rod in the inner ball joint relative to the outer tip 1, the toe-in of the steered wheels is adjusted.
The ball joint 6 of the outer tip is covered with a rubber protective cover (boot) to protect it from dirt. The outer tip forms a non-separable structure with the hinge, therefore, if the hinge fails, the tip should be replaced.
Steering wheel with driver airbag. The central pad of the steering wheel contains buttons for activating the horn; in the optional version, the cruise control control switches are located on the left spoke of the steering wheel, and the multimedia system is located on the right spoke.
The issue of safety is not only about seat belts, airbags and electronic systems. After all, it is better to prevent an accident than to try to minimize its consequences. That is why all the machine’s systems must work correctly, and the build quality must be at its best so that unexpected breakdowns do not occur along the way.
Ball joints
Let's consider diagnosing the knocking of the upper and lower ball joints on VAZ classic cars.
The knocking of ball joints when driving over bumps is characterized by a metallic dull sound, which simplifies the diagnosis of the problem.
To confirm your assumptions, you need to drive the car into an inspection hole, and in order not to remove the ball joints, since this is a labor-intensive job, use the diagnostic methods described below.
The first thing we need to do is unload the front suspension of the car.
Jack up the car and place reliable wooden or metal supports under the lower control arm.
Remove the wheel and lower the jack. All the load will go to the lower arms and supports, thereby unloading the suspension.
It turns out that it rests on the spring through the lever, and not on the wheel, through the ball joints, which are now in a free state.
Take a long prybar or crowbar and insert it between the trunnion and the upper support body as shown below and wiggle it up and down.
In this way we will check whether the ball pin of the upper support is loose in its body.
You can also check the upper support for play without removing the wheel. The machine must be jacked up as described above.
To do this, you need an assistant who must sit behind the wheel and press the brake pedal on command. At this time, you must jerk the wheel sharply along and against the movement, away from you and towards you.
In this way, we eliminate the hub bearing and if there is any play, it will only be the upper ball joint.
The lower support is checked in the same way. The pry bar must be inserted between the lower arm and the axle.
And also, using rocking movements, we check the play of the finger in the lower support.
Play in the lower support can be checked in another way. To do this, find the diagnostic plug and unscrew it.
Take a caliper and use a bore gauge to measure the depth of the hole to the ball joint. If you don’t have a caliper, you can use a straight wire or a thin stick with a ruler.
The hole depth should not be more than 11.8 mm. If the measurement number is higher, then the lower support requires replacement.
As for checking ball joints on VAZ 2108/09/10 and higher vehicles, there are some peculiarities here.
On these vehicles, it is not recommended to check the condition of the ball joints using pry bars and crowbars, as the results may be erroneous.
The best option that will allow you to accurately find out the condition of the part is:
- Drive the car into a pit or lift it with a lift;
- If the car is in a hole, then jack it up and support it;
- Remove the front wheel;
- Unscrew the two bolts that hold the ball in place with a 17mm wrench. You don’t need to touch the lower 19mm nut yet.
- Bend the lever down using a crowbar to access the part;
- If the ball joint moves freely in different directions, dangles and makes noise, then it’s time to change it; there’s a high probability that it’s the one making the knock;
- Replacing the ball begins with unscrewing the lower nut by 19.
Comments 38
It could be the strut support bearing squeaking.
It creaks even if you stand
Yes, I had the right pillar creaking in my rape, it was more audible from the outside, but only in a certain position, I determined it myself by holding the upper or lower ball of the pillar with my hand, and my son did not rock the steering wheel from side to side very much.
For me, as the kilometers per day increase, it starts first only with the steering wheel in the extreme right position, and then anywhere
Check with my method, catch the position of the squeak, then one shakes the steering wheel slightly, the second one feels)))
Thank you, right now I’m making a list of what to look at tomorrow. I went to the 5th or 6th hundred, everyone says it’s the rack, but they’re not sure, it seems like it, so I made an appointment to have the rack repaired. But I’m not entirely sure what’s wrong with her
Write back later when you find out what kind of squeaking sound this is in the news, in the rapid, then I already know what kind of squeaking))
Okay) at my rapid speed I know the sound of failed racks, here it’s something different, it seems
Write back later when you find out what kind of squeaking sound this is in the news, in the rapid, then I already know what kind of squeaking))
Thank you, right now I’m making a list of what to look at tomorrow. I went to the 5th or 6th hundred, everyone says it’s the rack, but they’re not sure, it seems like it, so I made an appointment to have the rack repaired. But I’m not entirely sure what’s wrong with her
And by the way, I haven’t heard before that the rack can creak and knock. But the question is, maybe he can squeak))
That's exactly what they told me at the hundred where they do slats. But I signed up anyway, they said they would look at what was wrong with it and then they would answer unequivocally
Well, my opinion is that you first need to find the reason yourself. but now they can make a hundred more.
It creaks even if you stand
When driving there was a creaking noise in turns at about 10-30 km speed
And for me at any speed
Well, I'm sinning on the stub racks. I still need to listen to you from outside, I searched for 3 days) then the OD said look there, they checked and replaced it under warranty without any problems
It creaks even if you stand
By the way, how do you like the news after the rapid?
So-so, life necessity forced me to change the car
It creaks even if you stand
Mileage 5500 km when turning the steering wheel almost all the way to the right there is a creaking sound. I didn’t listen from the outside, from the interior. When turning left everything is quiet. It can be heard both when driving not fast and when standing still
Crunching noise in the right front wheel
The problem was that there was a crunching sound in the right front wheel, I thought the CV joint looked at the boot, it was intact! What could it be?
I read on the forum, everyone says that the khan's boot has a CV joint, but it's intact. A friend says that this is a bearing in the hubs, but again there is no noise. It crunches on pits and when turning, I thought it might be a ball joint, but I read that they say then I would feel every pit, but the pits go through normally.
Honestly, I don't know what it could be. can anyone advise?
Vitz car, if that's important
On a couple of cars in the region of a hundred thousand, the drives began to crunch... a normal phenomenon
To begin with, it would be nice to make sure that it is the drive and on which side... if you go to the service people, there is a decent chance that they will tell you to change two... I don’t know why, but they love it..
take the corefan, put him on the street and steer around him until he is sure which side is cracking... or you can force the taxi driver to listen.. they do it well)) .. then you go to an office that sells drives, buy a grenade with an anther there collect and look for someone to supply it for you.. the internal thing usually lasts longer
Good afternoon, dears! Finally, I decided to contribute to the problems with the front suspension on the Internet. I hope this text will help someone in the future if we solve the problem, of course!
History of diagnosis. 1 day:
— Transition to new summer tires on new wheels from 17 (winter) to 18 (summer) radius; — Driving after 1000 km. after changing shoes on the paving stones near the Zoo in Moscow (metro station Barikadnaya);— Quiet tapping on the left side of the wheel with kickback in the pedals and on the bottom after 5 km. when driving straight at a speed of 20 km/h. along the Garden Ring; - Tapping accompaniment for another 10-15 km. when moving straight, but without any kickback in the pedals, as if the shocks had shifted even further to the left of the pedals, closer to the wheel. There is no vibration in the steering wheel, the gearbox works perfectly, the bolts on the wheels are tightened;— When approaching the house, the sound began to behave differently: from tapping and skipping (as if metal had caught on metal and moved on), everything turned to “combing” of metal with metal a comb (the sound of a child's xylophone if you move the hammer from low to high notes);
History of diagnosis. Day 2 and subsequent days:
— I stopped by a local service station near my house. Changed the pads. We sat down with the master, he heard everything, from tapping to “combing.” They could not immediately determine. I got on the lift. The wheel bearing was shallow immediately, they say the sound is not characteristic (but I continue to blame it), the ball joints are in order (new, original), the levers and silent blocks (new, original), the shock absorber is visually in order, the internal CV joint with an intact boot, the CV joint the outer one has a whole boot, the pads are new... The rack is ok, the box is ok. They lifted it up on a lift, spun the wheels, tugged everything, and revved it up. It turns out that the symptoms appear only under load on the wheels. They didn’t take the money, they told me to drive until the symptoms became more obvious. — I overcame the feeling that perhaps some pebble had gotten between the brake disc protection and the disc (but didn’t bend the protection). The theory requires verification;— I continue to drive with a crunch that periodically appears and disappears. It feels like a “reaction” begins under load on the wheels and when driving over small irregularities (similar to an internal CV joint);— When driving from 80 km/h. no symptoms;
Candidates:
— Wheel bearing— Inner CV joint
Friends, what is your opinion?
PS One of these days I’ll go to VAGplus in Perovo
. Problem solved
— Replacement of tie rod ends— Replacement of left outer CV joint— Replacement of right wheel bearing— “Wheel alignment” recommended
How to identify steering faults in Lada vesta and xray
January 30, 2022 Lada.Online 24,766
During the operation of Lada Vesta and XRAY vehicles, various steering faults may occur. For example, a creaking or knocking noise is heard when turning the steering wheel, or play is felt when the steering wheel is rotated. Checking the steering, which is not difficult to do yourself, will help identify the cause of the malfunction.
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Visually check the condition of the protective covers (boots) of the tie rod ends and steering mechanism (rack). We replace torn anthers with new ones.
To check the steering wheel play, you need to set it to a position corresponding to straight movement. We place a screwdriver on the panel (dashboard) so that its blade is directed towards the steering wheel rim. Turn the steering wheel to the right until the wheel begins to move, then to the left. Using the blade of a screwdriver as a guide, we mark the extreme positions on the rim with chalk. The steering wheel play should not be more than 5o (18 mm). And the total steering play should not exceed 10°. Increased play indicates the presence of faults in the steering mechanism (as a rule, the tie rod ends fail first).
Rock the steering wheel from side to side, listening to the presence of extraneous noise in the operation of the steering mechanism. A knocking sound when turning the steering wheel indicates wear on the steering rod joints or a malfunction of the steering mechanism (rack).
To check the play of the tie rod ends, you need to place your hand at the junction of the tip with the steering knuckle so that your palm touches them at the same time. Have a helper lightly rock the steering wheel from side to side. If there is play in the hinge, a displacement of the rod tip relative to the swing arm will be felt.
The presence of knocking and free play in rubber-metal joints of tie rod ends is not allowed (ISL-M type device produced by JSC NPF META, Zhigulevsk)
We repeat the test by squeezing the rod joint through the cover.
We check the hinge and tip in the same way. We replace faulty tips and rods with new ones.
We check the fastening of the steering rack to the subframe (tightening of the bolts).
Let's start the engine. By rotating the steering wheel from side to side, we make sure that the electric power steering (for Lada Vesta) or power steering (for Lada XRAY) is working properly. If, when you rotate the steering wheel, you sometimes feel an increase in resistance (the steering wheel gets wedged), we pump the hydraulic drive of the system.
We check the power steering pump. A malfunction in its operation is indicated by a hum or howl. We check the level of working fluid in the power steering reservoir and its condition (should not foam, should be homogeneous, without air bubbles). If the level is below normal, then we check the power steering hoses and pipelines for leaks. We make sure that the power steering connecting pipes are securely fastened.
Let us remind you that regular maintenance will help to avoid breakdowns in the steering. Maintenance regulations (for Lada Vesta, Lada XRAY).
Anti-roll bar bracket and bushings
The stabilizer may knock in broken bushings at the place where it is attached to the lower arm or to the side member (VAZ classic).
The first thing to do is to conduct an external inspection of the bushings; if they are burst in one or more places, as shown below, then they need to be changed and most likely they are the source of the knocking or squeaking noise.
To verify your assumptions, grab the stabilizer rod in the bushing area with your hand and, with sharp movements, forcefully pull it down and release it.
If you hear a creaking or knocking noise, it means the bushing is partially or completely worn out.
To finally make sure that the latter is worn out, grab it with both hands in the same place as before, and with force, sharply pull the rod in different directions. The appearance of a knock in the bushing will confirm your assumptions.
The other side of the rod is checked in the same way.
On the VAZ 2110/2112 and other models, in addition to the stabilizers themselves, brackets are structurally provided, in common parlance “eggs”.
Their bushings are also checked for integrity by external inspection and under load, and replaced if necessary.
EUR fault codes
Viewing fault codes is possible using the Grade-X diagnostic tool in the “Errors” mode.
For each detected malfunction, the following is stored in the memory of the UERU control unit:
- fault code;
- DTC status status (active or inactive).
The DTC is stored in memory with the status "active" if the last diagnostic test completed with a negative result.
The DTC is stored in memory with a status of "inactive" if the last diagnostic test completed with a positive result, but previous ones were completed with a negative result. This manifestation is possible if the car has an intermittent fault.
An "inactive" DTC is cleared from memory if diagnostic tests are completed with a positive result on a specified number of recent ignition ON/OFF cycles.
To delete codes from the memory of the UERU control unit after completion of the repair, erase the codes using a diagnostic tool in the “Errors” mode; Erase and update."
List of ESD fault codes: C1604-96 Torque sensor - internal component error C1606-96 Engine - internal component error C1608-43 EEPROM malfunction - special memory error C1608-44 RAM malfunction - data memory error C1608-45 ROM malfunction - program memory error C1608-46 Damage to calibration dataС1608-49 Controller malfunction - internal electronics faultС1608-54 Calibration not completedС1608-55 Setting not completedС1614-4В Overheating of the power boardU0100-00 CAN bus - no transmission from the ACSU1000-00 CAN bus disabledU1001-86 CAN bus - incorrect signalU1001-87 Shi on CAN – no message U1200-00 CAN bus - no speed signal U3003-13 Battery voltage error - open circuit U3003-16 Battery voltage error - circuit voltage below threshold U3003-17 Battery voltage error - circuit voltage above threshold
Ask for more details on each error in the comments.
Other background information on Lada Vesta is posted here.
Key words: steering mechanism Lada Vesta
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Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › Eliminating noise and squeaking in the trunk
Good day.
I haven’t written on this blog for a long time, but now the reason to write was born.
I hasten to share with my comrades who have wonderful
hatchback body how to partially eliminate noise in the rear of the car.
Actually, I can’t say that it’s really noisy, but personally, I didn’t experience a real rattle. It is not too noisy, but is constant while driving. I couldn’t understand what was wrong, but the issue was resolved.
For those who have a creak.
The issue was resolved with tie rod plugs from a VAZ 2108, I bought two of them for 25 rubles apiece.
For those who constantly have something rattling.
I couldn’t understand what was rattling, I touched everything.
I rewound all the wires in Madeleine/Bitoplast. It started creaking, I removed the bitoplast, it really creaks, don’t use it! It doesn't even squeak as much as it rubs; in general, the sound is not pleasant.
Let's return to the fact that everything is wrapped in madeleine, everything is tightly planted, the shelf is checked forty times, and then completely removed.
It's not about the shelf! This is what I found out. Not in wires. I removed all the plastic from the back. And it turned out that it wasn’t him. Everything is as always in the trunk lid. Noisy father
by her leg.
Then a suggestive moment happened:
I was putting the bags in the trunk and
BAAAAH
, Tyson himself hit me, I immediately spat out my false jaw,
NICHOSI
, the stops don’t hold, and the trunk weighs a ton no less... such things, but I have it
welded and glued
. After that decided not to delay and buy stops.
I drove everywhere until I found Fenox for 2112, it has the highest pressure, judging by what Google told me, 460H. Two pieces for 498 rubles each. I already had ones from 2112, because... they are more powerful than on 2170. There was pinzes on the street:
Pros and cons of different amplifiers
The use of hydraulics to make driving easier is due to the following advantages of power steering:
- lower production costs, affecting the final price of the new machine;
- You can get more power from the hydraulic booster, allowing it to be used in trucks and minibuses of any carrying capacity;
- reliable design, proven over years of operation.
The main disadvantage of the hydraulic system is the need to control the fluid level and periodic maintenance. It is necessary to ensure that the seals of the piston mechanism, distributor and pump do not leak, change and tighten the belt in time, and lubricate the bearings.
Other disadvantages are not so significant:
- The booster pump runs continuously as long as the engine is running. This increases fuel consumption.
- To prevent the oil pressure in the lines from exceeding a critical level, you cannot hold the steering wheel turned to its extreme position for more than 5 seconds.
- On budget car models, the power steering-assisted steering wheel becomes “empty” at high speed.
As opposed to hydraulics, the electric power steering has the following advantages:
- the electric motor and control unit with sensor do not require inspection or maintenance;
- the dimensions of the unit are much smaller, which is why in small cars it fits behind the dashboard;
- the system does not consume electricity unnecessarily, which means it does not consume excess fuel;
- The steering wheel can be held in any position for as long as desired.
We recommend: The best cars of the year for 500,000: new, automatic, used
Another feature of the electric power steering is the ability to change operating settings depending on driving conditions and artificially create “heaviness” in the steering wheel at high speed. In addition, the EUR is capable of “steering” the car independently when driving in a straight line, which is implemented on many premium cars.
The weakness of the electric amplifier is its high price. And the higher the cost of the unit, the more expensive its repair will be, and often a failed EUR has to be replaced entirely.
The second drawback is the low drive power, so such amplifiers are not installed on heavy vehicles and minibuses.
New Lada: We summarize the pros and cons of the Lada XRAY, or Why people don’t buy this car
What to do with a humming bearing?
The first question that arises after detecting a malfunction is whether it is possible to continue driving. Motorists are forced to postpone repairs by various circumstances: an urgent trip, lack of free time for replacement and a simple lack of funds. Some individuals hope for the Russian “maybe” and continue to operate the car to the last degree of wear and tear.
The final failure of the bearing of any of the front wheels is dangerous primarily for the passengers of the car. If the separator falls apart, a huge play will appear in the hub, the wheel will begin to wobble and the car will lose control. It is difficult to predict how this will end when driving at high speed. The destruction of the rear bearing assembly is not so critical - the malfunction will simply immobilize the car.
Such breakdowns often lead to the separation of the front or rear wheel, which flies further due to inertia. There is enough video material on the Internet showing where detached car ramps end up - in oncoming traffic, pedestrians, and so on. If the owner of the wheel remains unharmed in an accident, it can cause damage and injury to others.
What to do when a bearing hums:
- Perform the diagnosis yourself without delaying it. Find out exactly which side the problem part is on.
- The front wheel bearing, which produces a characteristic noise, is strongly recommended to be replaced immediately.
- If you need to get to the garage after discovering a problem, drive slowly and carefully. Stopping periodically, check the degree of heating of the hub and allow it to cool down.
- There is also no need to delay with a faulty rear mechanism. Allow time to replace the part and, if necessary, find funds or park the car until repairs are made.
It is considered incorrect to ask how long you can drive with a humming wheel bearing. No auto mechanic in his right mind will give a definite answer, since such driving is akin to a lottery. Practical experience shows that most drivers do not want to take risks and take the situation to an extreme, and therefore change the non-working part in a timely manner.
After I published an article about identifying a CV joint failure, questions about other components started pouring into my blog. Namely, how to determine this or that malfunction. And now several people are asking a question about the wheel bearing, namely how to understand that it is faulty. Today I will also try to explain simply and clearly how to identify a breakdown with your own hands...
CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE
The wheel bearing is a very important element; without it, the car wheel would not spin. It experiences really high loads, and therefore must be made of wear-resistant, high-quality materials. However, over time, due to high mileage or simply improper use of the car, this part can fail. It is a MUST to change it, otherwise you can provoke a big accident.
About the hole in the Lada vesta steering shaft
08 May 2022 Lada.Online 8 412
The Lada Vesta family is built on its own unique platform. Therefore, during the operation of the car, owners may encounter situations that do not occur on other LADA models. For example, there are a lot of discussions on the Internet about the hole in the intermediate steering shaft of the Lada Vesta (top photo zloi722).
Owner's notes:
- In sunny weather, light can be seen passing through the hole in the steering shaft.
- In winter, cold air blows through the steering shaft hole.
If you look at the design of Vesta’s steering, you will notice that in this place the hole is closed with a transparent steering rack seal.
The transparent seal allows light to pass through, creating the illusion that the hole is not blocked by anything.
Photo by amoevg
However, some car enthusiasts believe that the standard seal is not reliable enough and modify the design by placing foam rubber or rags in the plastic boot of the steering shaft. According to reviews, this modification not only eliminates blowing, but also reduces noise from the suspension and road. One such example of improvement in the video:
Have you paid attention to the hole in the steering shaft? Have you taken any action?
Other improvements to Vesta:
Keywords: steering mechanism Lada Vesta | soundproofing Lada Vesta
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Self-adjustment
You can tighten the steering rack on a Vesta yourself if you have the skill and experience in doing this work. The mechanism is located on the suspension subframe and is secured with two bolts. The casing protects the rail from mechanical damage and contamination. The reason for the appearance of extraneous knocks in the mechanism may be the loosening of the nut that tightens the sliding sleeve. The tightness of its fixation needs to be adjusted.
The steering rack on the Lada Vesta is tightened using a special octagonal wrench. For ease of operation, the machine is placed on a lift. Install the tool and begin to tighten the nut. The element is tightly fixed; a rotation of 40 degrees is enough for this.
You can fix the knocking sound of the steering rack in Vesta yourself, but the cost of a special wrench for tightening the fixing nut exceeds 1,000 rubles. It is advisable to contact a specialized car service, where the price of the adjustment work will be less than the amount spent on purchasing the tool.
Electric power steering device
The electromechanical power steering is designed to reduce the force on the steering wheel of the car when parking and at low vehicle speeds, as well as dampen shock and vibration coming to the steering wheel.
The UERU is structurally located in the steering column of the car and is an electric motor powered from the vehicle’s electrical on-board network, connected to the steering shaft and controlled by an electronic unit depending on the torque on the steering shaft and the speed of the car.
In this case, when the UERU is operating, the moment applied to the drive gear of the steering mechanism will be determined as the sum of the moment applied by the driver and the compensating moment added by the UERU. As the speed of the vehicle increases, the created compensating moment of the electronic control unit decreases.
Structurally, the UERU is made according to the “classical” scheme, when the UERU electric motor is coordinated with the steering column shaft through a gearbox.
The UERU includes:
- Control block;
- electric motor – brushless DC;
- mechanical gearbox with worm gear;
- torque sensor (TM) – designed to measure the torque applied by the driver to the steering wheel;
Main characteristics of the UERU:
- rated supply voltage – 13.5 V;
- operating voltage range providing compensating torque – (10.5 ÷ 16) V;
- maximum current consumption in the “with compensation” mode – 70 A;
- the maximum current consumption in the “without compensation” mode along the circuit of terminal “15” of the ignition switch is 0.7 A;
- maximum compensating moment – 59 N.m.
Electrical connection diagram for electric power steering on a LADA VESTA car:
152 – fuse 5A (F6); 178 – electromechanical power steering (EPS); 214 – fuse 70A (F60)
Assignment of contacts of the UERU control unit connectors:
| Contact | Chain |
| Connector X1 | |
| 1 | To the “plus” terminal of the battery (Supply voltage 12V UERU) |
| 2 | To the negative terminal of the battery (mass of the electronic control unit) |
| Connector X4 | |
| 1 | CAN bus (L – line) |
| 2 | CAN bus (H – line) |
| 3 | Not used |
| 4 | To terminal “15” (ignition switch signal) |
| 5-8 | Not used |
Reasons for failure
The steering rack is directly connected to the steering of the car's wheels. Its condition is affected by careless overcoming of unevenness and obstacles on the road surface. Moving too quickly over potholes, tram tracks, or abruptly driving onto curbs are the causes of mechanism breakdowns.
The condition of this unit is affected by sudden accelerations and braking when the wheels are turned all the way. At these moments, the load on the rods and tips increases significantly.
Reducing speed in front of an obstacle and smoothly moving over uneven surfaces are the basic rules for extending the service life of this mechanism.
