Why does the stove blow badly into the Prior's legs?

The fact that the Priora stove is 95% similar to the “ten” can be seen by the catalog numbers:

Heater assembly (2170-8101012 or 2111-8101012-10).
Air flow distribution gearmotor (2170-8127100). Distributes air flow to the feet/face/windshield. Located inside the dashboard.
Interior air temperature sensor (11186-8128050). Located on the ceiling.
Heater control controller (HCU) or stove control unit (21703-8128020). The block on which the driver sets the operating parameters of the stove. Located on the panel.
Additional resistor or additional resistor (2123-8118022). Determines the rotation speed of the stove fan. Secured in the engine compartment.
Electric heater fan (2111-8118020). Located under the hood.
Heater damper motor reducer (2110-8127200). Distributes air flows into the cabin (outside/heater radiator). Inside the heater assembly.
Air filter (2110-8122020).
Heater radiator (2110-8101060). Located inside the heater.

A malfunction of one of these elements causes problems in the operation of the stove.

Improvement of the VAZ-2110 foot airflow

If all of the above procedures did not help, then most likely you are simply not comfortable enough with the operation of the standard heater. Many motorists note: in severe frosts, even with a fully functional heater, the airflow of the feet is not enough to feel comfortable behind the wheel. While scalding streams of air emerge from the central and side deflectors. This is a design feature of the car.

There are several ways to increase the efficiency of foot airflow on a VAZ-2110 car.

Disabling the rear footwell air circuit. It is advisable to carry out this procedure if you rarely carry passengers in the rear seats. To turn off the rear foot airflow on the VAZ-2110, you will need to remove the gear shift lever cover. The rear heater circuit air duct window is located in the front part of the rocker housing. A piece of foam rubber tightly placed in this area will close the passage channel and cut off the rear contour. Now, when the foot blower mode is turned on, air will flow only from the front of the cabin.
Increasing the area of the outlet openings. The grilles on the plastic foot airflow panel are small. You can increase them yourself. This will slightly increase the flow of air coming out of them. Removing the panel on the driver's side is simple: it is held on with self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the panel. We are looking for a suitable material that will serve as a lattice. We cut holes in the plastic and secure the prepared grid with glue or self-tapping screws. As practice has shown, this method increases the flow of warm air into the leg area.
We eliminate the loose fit of the dampers. To do this, we prepare foam rubber strips 3-5 mm thick and glue them to the surfaces of the dampers adjacent to the body. This will allow the dampers to completely block the cold air supply channel in the interior heating mode, which will increase the efficiency of the heater.

An integrated approach to modifying the heater will significantly increase the efficiency of heating the feet.

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Delivery of goods is carried out throughout Russia and the CIS:

1. Russian Post (from 350 rubles and above)

Delivery to all regions of the Russian Federation and CIS countries

2. Transport Companies (from 350 rubles and above)

Delivery throughout Russia and the Republic of Kazakhstan

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3. Pickup

The order can be picked up at the office at Tolyatti, 40 Let Pobedy 38, TD “Malachite”, 1st floor.

The waiting time for sending an order in our online store is approximately 2-7 working days, large orders 7-14 working days. days; color of bumpers, mirrors, body parts, spoilers, etc. 7-14 work. days; sewing covers, upholstery, steering wheels, gear knobs, EVA mats, etc. 7-14 work. days.

During this period, we will send you a tracking number by email. email to track the parcel en route.

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1. Payment to a Sberbank card

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You can also pay with credit cards with a grace period.

To select payment for goods using a bank card, on the corresponding page you must click the “Pay for order by bank card” button.

We eliminate other problems

This problem has been sorted out, but it is not the only reason why the heat from the stove does not reach the feet. When the valve is in the "legs only" position, not the entire channel is blocked. There remains a space through which heat moves towards the windshield. To correct this situation, you can build a curtain from PCB that will be placed above the damper. Here the work is also completed, all that remains is to deal with the air ducts.

Passengers who will be seated in the rear seat should also experience a comfortable ride. And cold feet have nothing to do with comfortable conditions. To correct the situation with heat supply to the rear of the cabin, the best option would be to install a separate air duct. This will require corrugated sleeves.

Heating the feet of people sitting in front will be more effective if decorative grilles are cut out. This decision will not have the best effect on the aesthetics of the interior, but the issue with heating the legs will be resolved in a better way. Don’t forget about the cabin filter, which, when clogged, impairs the efficiency of the heating system.

All these methods of solving the problem of poor heat supply to the legs have been tested in practice, so you can safely use them. It is not appropriate for the owners of the Lada Priora to keep warm with warm socks; after all, there is a heating system for this.

Other Possible Causes

These include the following options:

Liquid entering the car ignition relay. One effective piece of advice will help you find out that the fan is failing precisely because the relay is flooded. If a previously “stalled” fan began to function again as soon as the car engine had been running for 20-25 minutes, that is, after the vehicle had warmed up, then we can say with confidence that the cause of the malfunction is precisely the flooding. To get rid of this problem, it is necessary to replace the ignition system relay that has become unusable.
If during testing it turns out that the fan operates only at one speed, namely the third, then you will need to check the serviceability of the additional resistor. This element supplies voltage directly to the fan only in the 3rd speed mode, so if the device cannot be started in the 1st and 2nd speed modes, this part will need to be replaced.
The car heater fan may stop working due to a breakdown of the switch, which is responsible for the functioning of the entire heating system. To verify this, you need to remove the central part of the console, start the engine and, using a light bulb whose power does not exceed 12 V, equipped with connecting wires and a wire to “-”, close it to the car body. And with the second wire, check the operation of all three contacts that belong to the additional resistor. If during the test the light stays on, then the switch can be considered serviceable; otherwise, you will need to replace the fuse and check the integrity of the electrical circuit.

If all of the above failure options have been analyzed, but the VAZ-2110 stove fan still does not work, you need to check several additional reasons:

serviceability of the electric motor of the device;
check the motor contacts;
make sure that the brushes are not stuck or stuck on the main body.

Modernization of the VAZ-2110 stove

Problems with the damper gear motor or fan motor

A common malfunction on a Lada Priora car is that the heater does not work. No air blowing at all.

First, you should make sure that the heater motor is working - at least cold air should be blowing from the deflectors. If not, then you need to check the integrity of fuse F9.

If it is intact, it means the stove fan is not working. "Priora" is equipped with a "ten" fan. Therefore, removing it exactly repeats the procedure on the “ten”. In some cases, the fan does not spin because leaves or other foreign objects have gotten between the impeller and its housing, which can block rotation. In this case, you can hear a characteristic hum.

Cold air can also come out of the deflectors because the gear motor that controls the damper that blocks the flow of hot air is not working. It is also accessible from under the hood.

Often the cause of gearmotor failure is oxidation of conductive contacts. They need to be cleaned with sandpaper by disassembling the body. You should also pay attention to the strength of the air flow. If even at maximum speed the air is blowing weakly, it may be a clogged cabin filter. It is located under the hood in the heater housing and creates additional interference.

Content

Why doesn't the heater work and blows cold air on the Priora? There are many reasons for this. In descending order of frequency of cases, they can be arranged as follows:

The stove damper is stuck. It does not open and does not allow warm air into the cabin. By the way, the opposite option is also possible: if it is closed in the open position, you begin to feel like you are in a sauna;
The heating gear motor is broken;
The stove control unit does not work;
Problems in the engine cooling system;
The temperature sensor in the cabin has broken down, and the heating system simply does not know that you are cold. Again, in a similar but opposite case, it may be hot.

Clogged filter

Experienced Prior owners have developed an algorithm of actions to find out where the heating system is leaking.

First approach

Before all checks, you need to make sure that the fan is working - it would be unreasonable to go deeper if the main element does not spin. The next steps are as follows.

The engine heats up to the desired temperature;
The pipes leading to the heater are probed. Both are hot - okay, one is at ambient temperature - which means there is no filler circulation;
The hood opens, the tap is located and turns to another position. If it gets stuck, you will have to immediately soak it with WD-40.
The system is checked for leaks. The detected ones are eliminated: a constant lack of coolant is also the cause of cold airflow;
The tap is working, there is no leak - the plug is removed from the tank and the liquid level is checked. Often an air lock forms in the tank; in this case, the coolant is topped up to normal, and the gas pedal is pressed sharply several times. The fluid circulation will resume and squeeze the plug out of the reservoir;
To make the last step more effective, it is better to drive the front end onto the nearest hillock so that the car’s radiator is lower than the stove radiator.

Second approach

When (or if) both pipes are filled with hot liquid, we move on to the dampers.

Again you will have to climb under the hood, this time to observe the operation of the damper;
If it is warped or jammed, you can try to gently shake it with your hand from inside the cabin. To do this, remove the central deflector and unscrew the plastic guides to reach the stuck element. Access is only possible for a thin limb, so it is advisable to invite a female person to the procedure if she does not mind;
If there are serious problems with the damper (the fastenings have rusted, the plastic has warped due to temperature or it has cracked), alas, you will be faced with difficult work: you will have to disassemble half of the heating system.

How to secure beer in a bouquet

Third approach

The microreducer is a complete headache. First, its status is checked:

The left handle is moved to the “min” position. After a 15-second wait, the engine starts;
The controller that monitors the self-propelled guns is disconnected;
The tester measures readings
on both contacts. The resistance should be 800-1200 Ohms for units 1303.3854; 1313.3854 and 1333.3854; for controller 1323.3854 the norm is 3600-5000;
The same operation is carried out in the “max” position. Now the data is in the range of 3200-3500 for the first group and 1200-1600 for 1323.3854;
If there is no resistance or its unchangeability, the track on the sensor has been erased. It is not sold separately, so you will have to change the entire MMR. It is clear that not all the reasons why the stove does not work and cold air blows on a Priora can be eliminated on your own.

However, by following the above recommendations, you will at least understand what is preventing you from driving comfortably. And also estimate upcoming expenses. For example, if you have to change the entire SAUO unit, you will have to pay about 1.5 thousand rubles for it. plus the work of an electrician.

The Lada Priora car enjoys the well-deserved love and respect of our compatriots. Good value for money, availability of spare parts and excellent maintainability make it the leader of the domestic automotive market. However, being the result of a Russian design, this car also has some disadvantages.

As you know, “Priora” is a deep restyling of the previous model – the 2110th. Therefore, most components and assemblies moved from the “ten”, including the design of the heating and ventilation systems for the interior. Most of the main parts of this system are “decimals”.

Main reasons

There may be several reasons why the stove on a Priora does not work:

Thermostat is not functioning correctly.
Clogged heater radiator.
Incorrect operation of the heater damper gearmotor or heater electric motor.
Malfunction of the heater control unit.
Incorrect operation of the cabin air temperature sensor.

Preparatory stage

Troubleshooting the heater should begin provided that the power unit and engine cooling system are in order to eliminate their influence. To do this, you need to make sure that the antifreeze is poured in the proper amount, the engine is in good condition and is functioning normally.

And after that, find out why the stove on the Priora does not work. First, check the coolant level in the expansion tank. Next, you need to start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.

Heater radiator clogged

When the heater radiator is clogged, the circulation of coolant through it becomes much worse, which leads to insufficient heat exchange. A clogged radiator occurs as a result of neglecting to replace the coolant for a long time.

Checking for a clogged radiator can be done by touching the pipes supplying coolant to it; they should both be hot, but if one of them is hot and the other is cold, then most likely the radiator is clogged. The check should be carried out with the heater fan turned off.

This condition is met if the air flow from the air ducts is of sufficient strength, but cold. If the flow is weak but hot, then most likely it is necessary to replace the cabin filter.

FakeHeader

Comments 54

There was a somewhat similar situation, I also burned out a couple of resistors. The reason was as follows: we remove the back cover of the engine, there are stops welded to the brush mechanism (type 2 or R and C, I don’t remember well), the tail came off, everything was welded, I collected it and forgot, maybe that’s why, take a look. Good luck!

I'll fix it one of these days =) thanks!

This is necessary to prevent sparking of the brushes and fire of the commutator.

I did it with the mesh a year ago, I just laid it out after trying in the winter (in my BZ-www.drive2.ru / l / 5677199 /), I just had to cut the partitions, why not, you can remove the snow...

The pipe that you went around it to cool the fan motor (I had such an example on 21108), and if you have time, disassemble the wires and see where they go (at the same time they can be changed for longer ones) and measure the current strength , for which to use a fuse .. I would)

I just forgot to connect the pipe... This will need to be done today =) but to check the wires, you need to remove the entire throttle assembly... such hemorrhoids, if you take it completely apart and see what and why, and why at first everything worked, then where- then I got it wrong: motor, wires, twists, some of this =)

Then I did some googling and this is what I got: 2170 speed resistor heater (old) item number: 21703812702510 speed resistive heater 1118 (viburnum) part number: 21230-8118022 As you can see, the part numbers are different, which means the ratings are most likely different, even if they look the same. You say they have different engines. This means that they are most likely also different in power. Conclusion: when replacing the motor, change the resistance. And it’s not a fact that it doesn’t burn. There is also a control unit. How it works is known only to VAZ. Although there may be those who have looked inside.

In general, both times they gave me a resistor for 2110. It always annoys me when they say I need to use the previous one, but for 2110 they give me... Powertrain control unit?

Googled it some more. The question arose: what letters and numbers are on the thermal fuse?

In general, thank you for your efforts, I also changed the thermal fuses to stronger ones I found, 185 degrees, but they still burn out immediately. I installed the old engine, everything was ok, we returned it to the store.

Judging by the pictures, you connected the wires not by twisting, but through a block. If the connection is made through the block, then there is absolutely no difference which wires are connected. Copper and aluminum cannot be joined by torsion alone, since there is direct contact between copper and aluminum, and both metals oxidize at the point of contact. Moreover, this does not become obvious immediately. It may take six months to a year before you start to notice that something is wrong. So, in your case, contacts have nothing to do with it (I don’t know how to write correctly: together or separately). Here, most likely, there is a mismatch between the power of the motor and the rheostat. Here you can simply check: see where the first contact is, and put “+” to it, and “-” to all the others in turn, or from the body with a check: on all contacts the check should be turned on, and the brightness should be different. If one of them does not turn on:... The correct connection to the rheostat is correct. If everything is fine and the stove does not work, you need to dig somewhere else.

Collective farm tuning of the Niva Chevrolet stove: we make it blow into our feet

One of the ways to solve the problem of poor foot airflow.

In some cases, the correct switching method does not work and then you have to modify the heater to achieve full functionality.

The main problem with dampers and ducts is leakage.

We will improve the cracks and eliminate leaks in the stove.

Warm air simply spreads throughout the cabin, escaping through leaks in the dampers and air ducts. Naturally, each specific car has its own gaps in the heating system, so there cannot be a single treatment recipe.

However, with little effort, without removing the front panel and the entire heater, you can modify the guides for the dampers so that the main flow of warm air is supplied to the feet. To do this, you need to remove the casing from the console on the driver's side and, if desired, the steering column casing .

In front of us on the stove side is a die , which is responsible for the direction of movement of both dampers, and therefore the direction of air supply. All that remains is to unscrew the die with the slots, change the shape in the uppermost slot from curved to straight, maintaining the starting and ending points.

A radical solution to the problem of poor foot airflow is to close one damper AT ALL with foam rubber.

Having changed the geometry of the movement of the upper damper, it remains to firmly fix the lower one, which is responsible for blowing the legs. It is enough to fix the lever of the lower damper with a self-tapping screw in the position of blowing the legs. Now there will be constantly warm air in the legs, and its quantity and proportions between the windshield and the legs are smoothly selected by a conventional air direction regulator. This way you can come to an agreement with the Niva Chevrolet stove and make it evenly warm up the interior.

Lada Priora Sedan 2010, 98 l.p. — tuning

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Lada Priora, 2010

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Comments 59

good evening, is the internal diameter of these pipes the same?

Did you throw the pipe from the expander into a small circle? And if in a small circle where the return of the stove was connected, turn it off. Should I connect the expansion tank through a tee in its original place with the stove pipe?

Gentlemen, do not be fooled by the various advice of pain innovators. I read the disk and started updating the type. First I installed the thermostat bag, we had a berkha in the afternoon with fire, I installed the lusar. I don’t know about others, I’m just a bit clueless. There was air in the semifredd stove, the temperature was just 82-83C and then it broke down to 75C (I did everything in good faith, expelled the air). In short, I've been traveling for a week now. I changed the locations of the pipes as indicated above (the thermostat is just a beginner). The temperature is normal, at -23C - 87-90C, but the stove... a little hot, the recording said it would be better, ended up being disappointing. Dad says you hesitated, let’s fix everything like it was from the factory. They put it on, and I already forgot that you can light the stove like that. The temperature of the internal combustion engine is 89-90 ° C, the air is fiery from the stove to the swing of the open damper, it is very hot in the car, even if outside it is -2 ° C. They promise cold temperatures down to -20 ° C, we will test it, but I think everything will be fine. Like. Good luck and full tanks.

Your hands are growing out of your ass, or something is wrong, most likely the first one, I blew hot, did the same, started blowing hot, and if you are a handyman, then you don’t need to shine your mind, dad will tell you

Hey smart guy, hey, he's stuck. Get your opinion up your ass. The deer is ready.

Oh daddy please, the devil is furious)

I went.. mmm. Drink. r eb.u.

Have you already complained to dad? Don't cry, there's no cure)!

Fuck you. fucking stinky.

Your diagnosis has been confirmed, calm down)!

Well, the thermostat really does fix it, a friend made it for me for 500 rubles, God forbid it threshes, so maybe I got the thermostat, on the highway 140 at -23, I kept the temperature normal, the barrel is sharp

I've been away with this shift all summer! 95 degrees, even in traffic it was +25, foreign cars were boiling, I have rules. It used to be summer: the car was terribly hot...

Almost all owners of VAZ series cars are faced with the problem of poor-quality heating of the interior and freezing of car windows with the onset of cold weather. There is only one reason: the oven is not working. Owners of Lada Priora are no exception. Problems with the car's interior heating system force the driver to take the necessary measures.

In this article we will look at how to modify the Lada Priora stove to increase the level of comfort in the cabin for the driver and passengers.

Engine cooling system problems?

As practice shows, most problems with the Priora stove occur due to the ESD (engine cooling system). In this case, the procedure is as follows:

1. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank so that it is between o and “MAX”. If coolant has to be added all the time, then the cooling system is leaking somewhere. You should carefully inspect all pipes for leaks, and also tighten the clamps. By the way, in order for warm air to enter the cabin faster, many car enthusiasts in winter specially add coolant only to the “MIN” mark. After all, the less liquid there is in the system, the faster it will heat up.

2. Check the coolant circulation in the SOD, paying attention to the expansion tank. Example:

3. Check the thermostat. We warm up the engine to 75 degrees and feel the upper radiator pipe (in diagram No. 13), if it is cold, then the coolant circulates only in a small circle, the thermostat should be replaced with a new one.

If the stove blows cold air, then the reason may be airing of the SOD. Read how to remove air from the engine cooling system.

You can find more detailed information in the article “Diagnostics and repair of Priora SOD”.

Causes of poor heating

The reasons for insufficient heating vary. The most common of them is an insufficient amount of antifreeze in the engine cooling system. To determine the amount of coolant, you need to check the expansion tank and add antifreeze to the level if necessary. The next significant reason may be hidden in the heater core. Often a crack or small hole appears in the radiator, which affects the quality of its operation.

An air lock is another problem that prevents the radiator from fully performing its functions. You can try to eliminate it. To do this, you need to drive your front wheels onto a hill and stand for several minutes with the engine running at medium speed. In some cases, simply replacing the cabin filter is enough. The reasons, as you can see, can be different; some will take a few minutes to eliminate, while others sometimes take half a day. But let's look at what needs to be done if the stove does not heat well.

VAZ 2110 stove device

The car heater must not only heat, but also ventilate. If you do not turn on the fan, the air enters the car naturally - through the ventilation slot under the windshield and passes through the channels in the cabin. The ventilation and heater deflectors are equipped with check valves so that heat does not escape from the machine, and fresh air can freely flow into the cabin.

Description

Window frame trim (jabot) n/o (reinforced, eliminating the defect “swelling”, non-adherence to the windshield) left/right (2 pcs) Priora without air conditioning

weight:1.5kg. dimensions:83x20x15 cm

The manufacturer reserves the right to change the characteristics of the product, its appearance and completeness without prior notice to the seller.

Automobile model

VAZ 2170 Priora, VAZ 2171 Priora, VAZ 2172 Priora