Hello everyone) A new entry is dedicated to the transition from the AutoDevice (AP) panel with one window 2110-3801010-04 to the new VDO Panel 1118-3801010. The devices are completely different, so the modifications affected primarily the pads.
I took a new 32-pin block from the VAZ 2112 harness; I haven’t seen it on sale separately yet.
It’s not possible to get the contacts out of the green block, unlike the old 13-pin ones. Therefore, the wires were cut with a margin. Then they were soldered to the ends of the wires from the white and red blocks, and covered with heat shrink for insulation.
Information that was used during electrical work: Pinout of old-style VAZ 2110 instrument cluster connectors:
Wiring color coding:
Pinout of new VAZ instrument cluster connectors:
Connecting the instrument block “1118-3801010” (new model) to a VAZ 2110:
To connect the old pads X1, X2 with the new one, you need to connect according to the diagram:
Which wires go where on the VAZ 2110 instrument panel pinout
Let's be honest - the VAZ 2110 does not have the most beautiful “native” instrument panel, neither on the first cars nor on the “improved” ones.
Therefore, many owners of this model are trying to make it more modern and somehow decorate it (with LEDs, beautiful lights, etc.). But, before you decide on some kind of upgrade, it is necessary that you have before your eyes the pinout of the instrument panel for the VAZ 2110, otherwise you can simply get lost in a heap of wires, sensors and buttons. Moreover, it will be useful regardless of whether you completely change the panel, or simply make some additions to the dashboard of your VAZ 2110.
FakeHeader
Comments 118
What could it be, I connected it according to the diagram, without a temperature and fuel consumption sensor, and the starter stopped turning? before this, after not touching the wires everything was fine
It’s strange, of course, because the shield in this case is not connected at all with starting the starter. The new ones have immo, there is only an indication. Does the shield itself work “adequately”?
So I think it's strange. The native immo works. The shield works, except for the gasoline needle, but I think that's the problem. Could there be something wrong with the wires not being connected? but also strange
By the way, have you checked the starter circuits directly? Starting with the lock, relay, etc. Does the circuit at least close when turning the key?
Yes, I looked. I changed the relays and visually the wires. Got it. It was necessary to connect together the cut wires of pin 9 of the white block. Oddly enough, the car started. Now it torments me why the tidy resets to zero every time...
It’s clear, it even became interesting - I need to look at the old car diagram to see where the 9th one goes. I usually don’t do this if I have to completely remove the connectors (pads). First, I connect what is necessary for the new option, then, according to the diagram, everything unnecessary (unused) is removed from the harness, and then the remaining but still used wires are connected) Most often, looped masses and power wires, lighting (from the dimensions), and less often signal wires remain. Is it reset, in the sense that all the icons light up, the so-called test mode? Or LCD screen readings?
Everyone does it in their own way, but they still come to the truth. The icons light up when the ignition is turned on, the readings on the screen are updated every time, right? And I noticed that the arrows can hang in one place, and then when I turn the key again, they return. It seems like I’m looking at the diagram, and I didn’t connect pin 20 of the new one correctly, to pin 13 of the red one, but it should have been to pin 4 of the white one...
That's why I asked what exactly was happening. I just wanted to know what happened with the food. Very often they confuse plug-in 12V and constant 12V, which also came to light after the conversation. 20 contact terminal 30 (permanent) 21 contact terminal 15 (after ignition)
Now I have changed it. Everything has become normal. Does not reset. All that remains is to set the arrows
This is good! Set to zero position? The movement of the hands can be checked by turning on the test mode of the shield, it is more convenient.
When I set them to 0, I connected them, and they fell. Then I took it apart again, turned it against the direction of travel, everything works) I’m happy
