How much voltage should the prior generator produce?

I need help, I have a hard time understanding everything myself. Question: how much should the generator give at the Prior if measured at the battery while the car is running. It gives me 13.3 or 13.4.

It seems to me that my generator is not charging the battery. I removed the positive terminal of the battery - the generator is working, changed the integral - everything is unchanged, I also looked at the fuses - everything is also ok. I’m writing because I wasted a new battery in a year and a half, now I bought a new battery - I wouldn’t want that too

Comments 39

Thank you. I'm starting to search for this miracle) Does it switch by hand?

yes)) in the second photo you can see this toggle switch between the wire terminals))) there are 3 positions min/norm/max)))

how much did it cost, please tell me

no more than 400, I think I took it for 320))) and I’ve been riding for almost a year without problems)))

Thank you. I've decided))

Thank you, Alexander. Helpful information

I have the same crap, I changed the regulator without changes, but I don’t need to take the new gene with a diode bridge at the next stage to check the mosh diode, one of which is broken there is a jamb somewhere

Yes, I don’t want a new gene either, I just changed it a year and a half ago. The diode bridge seems to have been changed, but I agree with you, we need to check it again...

same problem, it’s the end of it, I just changed it yesterday, but it’s buzzing like an infection, I went to the mechanic and he says that this is the norm; if it’s buzzing, it means it’s working, who knows?

I was also struggling with undercharging and put Adamchuk’s THORN now buzzing)

I looked at it, it’s an interesting option - I’ll take note

measure the voltage directly at the generator output. if there is 14v then duplicate the wire from the generator to the battery and + and -

Merily also gives 13.4. They measured it like this: + on the generator, and - on the battery with the positive terminal removed. Right?

no, take the tester and minus to the generator housing, plus to the output from the generator

so it turns out to be the same thing. After all, it doesn’t matter where the minus is?

The point is that the wires and terminals on them oxidize and the voltage is lost on them. I also had 13.2-13.5v at the battery and 14v at the generator output. I took a 20 kWmm welding cable, terminals and a fuse bulb with an 80A fuse. I passed the mass from the battery to the bolt that secures the generator. and the positive wire through the fuse to the battery from the generator output. that is, I simply duplicated the wires. now on a cold engine 14.4 is stable, on a hot engine 13.8, in heat below 40 degrees

Good day. Please tell me how much the generator should produce. I have 13.3 under load (xenon low beam is on, heater on 2, music - Amplifier and sub). No load 14.4. The instructions for the battery say the minimum charging power is 13.6.

How to equalize the generator voltage on a Priora

Stable voltage is the key to uninterrupted operation of automotive electrics. The regulator assembly is responsible for its alignment. This is an inexpensive and reliable part, but sometimes it breaks down and the current begins to drop low, jump or disappear.

Not every VAZ owner thinks about how many volts the generator should supply to the Priora battery. But this question is important - the charging speed of the battery, its service life and the general condition of the car’s electrics depend on the normal operation of the part.

Reasons for failure

If the symptoms described below appear, carry out diagnostics. You can do it yourself or take the car to a car service. To determine the cause of the failure, special equipment is needed. If you decide to figure it out yourself, master a multimeter tester.

Five possible sources of difficulty are described below:

bearing wedge (lubricant is used up, sometimes the belt breaks - you will need to replace or rebuild the unit);

the winding has burned out (a common cause is the reagents used to treat winter roads);

brush wedge (cause - wear of graphite cores);

the regulator relay is faulty (this element prevents the battery from overcharging and stabilizes the voltage);

How many volts should the generator produce?

The key parameter is voltage. The operating voltage of the Lada Priora generator is 14 Volts: this voltage should be produced by the generator on the Priora without and with air conditioning. A deviation from the nominal value to a lesser extent will lead to unstable operation or failure of the electrics, deterioration of performance, and to a greater extent it can cause burnout of circuits and blocks. If abnormalities occur (low current or too high), the device needs to be diagnosed and replaced, if necessary.

The second parameter is the current strength. On Priors there are generators with 115 amperes, 90, 80, etc. This depends on the year of manufacture of the car, body type and configuration. Models with air conditioning have higher power.

Photo source: https://primahim.ru/p361170614-generator-2170-115a.html

The generator is an electromechanical device, and the causes of its failures lie in both electrical and mechanical components. Common faults:

• damaged or worn pulley;
• wear of slip rings or brushes;
• a failed relay (regulator) of the voltage of the Priora generator;
• destruction of bearings;
• short circuit on the stator winding;
• physical damage to wires;
• diode bridge problems.

It should be borne in mind that voltage problems do not always indicate a breakdown of the generator itself. The reason may lie in the battery, wiring and other components.

Operating principle of the Priora generator

The generator is the main source of electricity for vehicle devices. It consists of a three-phase generating unit, a rectifier and a voltage regulation unit. It is driven by a belt drive rotated by the engine crankshaft.

The module converts the mechanical energy of the motor into electrical energy and generates alternating current. Next, the current passes through the rectifier and enters the on-board network. It powers the battery, ignition, lights and headlights, heating, computer, air conditioning and other built-in Priora systems.

Signs of a faulty voltage regulator

The engine and auto electrics must receive constant current. The stabilizer maintains the uniformity of the network voltage coming from the generator, preventing it from falling or rising too much. Initially, this unit was made electromagnetic, but the relay (regulator) of the new model received a completely electronic semiconductor design. Often it is this part that causes voltage surges and sags.

The generator produces low voltage

In the case of a low level, the cause may be a breakdown or excessive wear of the graphite brushes of the regulator. Sometimes the generator on the Priora produces low voltage due to short circuits and open circuits. All this leads to a small current or its disappearance. In such cases, the node needs to be diagnosed and, possibly, the device needs to be replaced.

• dim headlights;
• turning off on-board equipment, radio;
• Battery drains quickly, its charging is poor.

Power surges

• fuse burnout;
• shaking of the voltmeter needle on the panel, if present;
• flashing headlights and interior lighting;
• “jerking” of the engine, including at idle.

The brush assembly can unnecessarily increase the power level in the network: many Lad Prior owners complain about this.

• poor contact;
• generator malfunction.

The general recommendation in this case is to check the regulator by measuring the voltage with a voltmeter at the battery terminals.

The generator does not produce current

If this situation occurs, the battery error indicator on the panel lights up.

Among other reasons why the unit stops producing the proper current:

• critical wear of armature brushes or slip rings;
• general malfunction of the LV (voltage regulator);
• more unpleasant failures of bearings, stator, rotor, etc.

There are situations when there is actually voltage, but it is not displayed on the dashboard. This usually indicates a burnt-out light bulb in the panel.

What to pay attention to

Speaking about which battery is best suited for the Priora, it is worth recalling one point. The manufacturer installs an AKOM battery on this family, which has the following characteristics:

• capacity – 55 Ah;
• starting current - 425 amperes.

Based on this, you should choose a new battery. It is worth noting that car enthusiasts often install a more capacious battery on the Priora, 60 Ah. This step is completely justified. The thing is that the price difference here is small, but the 60 Ah battery makes it easier to start the engine on a winter day when the temperature outside is sub-zero. On the other hand, if the car is kept in a warm garage and your trips are not too long, then it is better to go with “stock” characteristics. The thing is that a 55 Ah battery charges a little faster.

Now let's talk about what type of battery is most optimal for Priora. There are currently 3 main options on the market:

• gel;
• based on Absorbent Glass Mat technology;
• lead-acid.

The cost of batteries of this type is relatively low. At the same time, they have a number of advantages, for example, the ability to withstand deep discharge without serious consequences. In addition, lead-acid batteries are not as sensitive to overcharging as other types of batteries. You need to check the electrolyte level no more than 3 times a year. Naturally, before winter this procedure should be mandatory.

You should not chase the cheapness and buy batteries of unknown brands. A good battery costs a little more than Chinese consumer goods, but its quality is much higher. The best option is products from well-known manufacturers such as Bosch or VARTA. However, domestic products have also proven themselves quite well, while their prices are more attractive.

In fact, the choice here depends on the financial capabilities of the car owner

You just need to remember the well-known proverb that says that a miser pays twice. Pay special attention to appearance. The battery, manufactured at the enterprise, looks appropriate - smooth body, smooth terminals, good plugs

The easiest way to identify “self-made” is just by external signs.

When purchasing, also consider the location of the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Sometimes a situation may arise when the length of the wires is simply not enough. Therefore, before you go to the store, look where the “plus” and “minus” are located on your car. Many batteries are presented in two versions, so there shouldn’t be any problems with the choice here.

If your Priora is equipped with air conditioning, then it is better to install a more capacious battery here - 60 Ah. The thing is that supplying cold air to the cabin requires additional electricity, and accordingly, a normal battery is needed. At the same time, you should not buy a battery that is too powerful, which seriously differs from the characteristics recommended by the factory in terms of capacity. After all, the generator simply won’t cope with its job. Accordingly, the risk that the battery will discharge at the most inopportune moment increases significantly.

This option is only acceptable if your car has too many electricity consumers - air conditioning, amplifier, subwoofer, heated seats, and so on. Then it really makes more sense to install a more capacious battery, but at the same time select an appropriate generator for it. Generally speaking, Priora is a car with a low level of electricity consumption. Accordingly, if you haven’t “stuffed” it with additional devices, then a 60 Ah battery will be quite enough, even taking into account the harsh Russian winters.

By the way, during the cold season it is recommended to treat the battery with particular care. You should not load it with unnecessary consumers. For example, if possible, stop listening to music. After all, the battery is already working at full capacity - heated windows, headlights, stove - and this is only a minimal list. In addition, at sub-zero temperatures the battery experiences a higher load when starting the engine than in summer. If the car doesn’t start, you don’t need to endlessly turn the starter, because you risk simply draining the battery, thereby adding new troubles to yourself.

Source



How to check the generator voltage on a Priora

To measure, you will need a voltmeter, which determines the voltage level at the machine battery terminals.

1. Start the car.
2. Warm up to operating temperature.
3. Turn on all energy consumers (heating, heated seats and windows, high beams, radio).
4. Raise the gas pedal to 2500 rpm.
5. Check the voltage of the Priora generator with a multimeter. You can check with a regular voltmeter, doing this between the “ground” and the B+ terminals of the generator, and at the terminals.

The device should show 13.8-14.4 V with slight deviations. If their value is too significant, one can judge the failure of the LV, worn brushes and other problems. A similar conclusion is drawn if the current begins to “jump”.

Photo source: https://www.drive2.com/l/7902681/

Next, turn off all electrical appliances and measure again. The normal value in such conditions is up to 14.5 Volts. If it is greater, a conclusion is drawn about a probable malfunction of the regulator. If the voltage of the Priora generator fluctuates, the unit needs additional checking.

Regulator replacement

If the diagnostics confirm that the relay is “replaceable,” you can install a working one yourself. For this you will need:

• New launch vehicle with brush assembly. Good samples are made in Russia, their price is low and they are highly reliable;
• Set of tools: keys for 13 and 8, a head with a knob for 10, a slotted screwdriver.

Progress

There are two replacement methods:

• with removal of the generator;
• without removal.

The first method simplifies the process, but on Priors with air conditioning, access to the required areas can be difficult. Actions after dismantling the device:

1. Remove the plastic cover of the Lada Priora regulator.
2. Remove the power plug.
3. Unscrew a couple of fasteners.
4. Use a wrench to remove the retaining bolt.
5. Remove the old LV, install the new one, connect and reassemble everything in reverse order.

There is a way without removal - you can get to the block through the headlight or bypass the air filter by sliding it by hand. There are many video reviews dedicated to this operation on YouTube and thematic forums.

Vesta

One of the owners noticed that when the cooling fan was turned on, the engine shuddered slightly. After inspecting the engine compartment, it turned out that the Vesta was missing a wire going from the battery to the engine. The “ground” to the engine comes only from the body, on one side from the bottom of the spar to the gearbox, and on the other hand from the spar to the generator, and from the battery the wire goes to the body. For example, on the 2022 Renault Sandero Stepway, the wire from the battery goes directly to the engine.

Required

: wire (article AX632).

1. Remove the air filter box and intake (for convenience).
2. Stretch the wire from the battery to the thermostat stud (but it’s better to go to the stud on the engine itself, see above).

The on-board computer used to show a voltage of 14.0-14.1 V, now it’s 14.1-14.3 V. I don’t notice any shuddering when the fan is activated.

Another example of installing additional mass on Vesta:

It’s similar on other LADA models.

Let us remind you that the voltage in the car's electrical system should be 14.2-14.4 Volts.

Source

Weak charging on Prior

By the way, problems with charging on all those cars that I personally had to use occurred extremely rarely. For the most part, this began after the 90-100 thousand mileage mark. Priora is no exception. If on a relatively new car, when the new generator and all other components are in perfect order, these problems are practically eliminated, then on a used car, problems with battery charging can occur quite often.

Features of using the unit 94.3701 on the VAZ 2114

1. The electric unit must not be allowed to operate with the battery disconnected. This causes voltage surges with possible damage to generator components and vehicle systems.
2. Make sure that the plus of the battery is always connected to the terminal of the electrical unit, and the minus to ground. If you mix up the contacts, a stronger current will flow through the diodes and they will suffer a breakdown.
3. Under no circumstances should you test a car electrical unit for a “spark”; the diodes will instantly break due to a surge in electricity. It is necessary to check only with the help of special meters or on a stand.
4. The valves cannot be controlled with a voltage greater than 12 V or with a megger, this may lead to a short circuit.
5. The car's electrical wiring should only be checked with a megger or voltage greater than 12 V with the electrical unit turned off.
6. If it is necessary to electrically weld components or body parts, it is imperative to disconnect the wires from all terminals and connection points of the electric generator and battery.

Why is there no battery charging and where to look for it?

In fact, there are a great many reasons why charging may fail. And most of them are connected with the most important unit in this regard - the generator. Let's look at the main ones that can most often occur.

1. Wear of generator brushes on Priora. As mentioned above, when all the parts are still new and without wear, then such malfunctions essentially cannot exist. But when the mark is 90-100 thousand km. has already been overcome, the first calls begin. And the most common reason for the battery not charging is excessive wear of the brushes. This issue can be easily resolved - replace them with new ones. The price of the assembled part is about 350 rubles.
2. The second reason can also be compared with brushes, since it is with this part that they come into contact during operation. These are the armature slip rings. It is worth removing the plastic cover of the generator and looking at the contact points of the brushes and rings to understand how much wear these parts have had! It is not always possible to carry out this replacement on your own, but almost any electrician will do it in half an hour.
3. Failure of the generator diode bridge. Even if one of the diodes breaks through, there will be poor charging, which will lead to a constant discharge of the battery. In this case, the rectifier unit is replaced.
4. Failure of the regulator relay - it is replaced as an assembly with the brush assembly, while the brushes themselves can be replaced separately (again, with the help of a good electrician).
5. More serious problems occur with parts such as the stator, rotor, bearings, etc., which are actually much less common than the above cases.

Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › Which battery should I get?

How to choose? What capacity is 55 or 60 A/h? Or maybe more? What does this affect? And who trusts which company?

Comments 61

Can you recommend a good battery for Priora? Priora max. complete set. (With light sensors, rain sensors, electric lifts, amplifier, heated mirrors, seats, etc.)

You can’t put more than 62 on a Priora, especially in a luxury Priora, because battery size matters

The generator generally does not charge the battery like a 62 charger, the starting current is greater than that of 55 and 60, so think about it. Take an Akom reactor for 62 and forget about installing it. By the way, the 62nd is best suited for a seat or 2 seats and there will be no problems in winter.

Varta! + 3-level regulator

In short, as I understand it, our discussion did not reach a consensus.

Well, it’s useless to engage in arm wrestling here...))))I’m just speaking from the experience of operating my machines...)) But this is elementary physics...how in the ring a puny little boy knocked down a hog weighing 120 kg... - there’s a lot of mass, but little sense.)))

Do you want to say 55 and no more?

The original gene for 90A is in the Prior, right?

On the contrary, the experts say that they forgot to install a generator in the Priorka... it’s weak...) so to prevent the bridges and other stuff from flying, set it to 55 or 60...

The original gene for 90A is in the Prior, right?

They put different ones, mine is 80.

and how is it normal?

I have a mutlu 65 a/h, there is 100% undercharging, but my problem is different, the gene does not provide the required voltage.

That's what needed to be proven... you can stick a 75, but it will be of less use than a 55... a well-charged 55 will not be inferior to a 75...))

although I had an Akom 55 (sort of) or 60 before, it also sank at idle

Yes, in winter, anyone will sag... the question here is which one to put on the Priorka... the gene is also not two-wire...)))

Well, my problems start after -3, and this is nonsense. At -12 it’s already really hard, I’m silent about -20, I don’t even try. By the way, I have the lowest entry in the blog, I started it after a day of inactivity at -12, this is absolutely terrible. On octah at -25 I start it like at -5

Symptoms of loss of battery charging on a Priora

The very first thing that many people pay attention to is that the battery charging light on the dashboard came on. If you have a multimeter at hand, you can measure the output charging current by connecting the contacts to the “+” and “-” terminals, respectively. If even without a load the device readings are less than 13 Volts, this indicates that there are certain problems with charging.

Of course, it is possible (although it is highly not recommended) to remove the “-” terminal from the battery while the engine is running, thereby checking the functionality of the generator. If the engine stalls, this will indicate that there is actually no charging, and accordingly, the generator is faulty.

Also, the charging lamp may glow at half-glow, which also indicates insufficient charging current. If one of the symptoms listed above occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the generator and its parts. If necessary, replace them with new ones. If you have anything to add to this article, you can comment below.

If the battery discharge indicator lights up in the instrument cluster, it means that current is not flowing from the generator to the on-board network and the battery's energy reserves are being consumed. Once the battery is discharged to its minimum value, the engine management system will stop working and the engine will stall. Let's look at the main reasons why charging from the generator to the battery does not occur.

A car has two power sources: a battery (battery) and a generator. The battery is used when starting the engine (to power the starter), as well as for other consumers when the engine is not running. After starting the engine, the main source of current is the generator. It supplies current to all consumers, including the ignition system, and charges the battery.

How long can you drive without a battery-powered generator?

To save battery energy, turn off unnecessary electricity consumers: audio system, heated seats, etc. Also try not to stop and start the engine unless necessary. Under normal conditions, a fully charged battery in the absence of charging current lasts for approximately one hour of driving. See experiment with Lada Largus.

How to find the reason why the generator does not charge the battery

:

1. Check to see if the accessory drive belt (or alternator belt) is broken. If the belt is intact, check its tension.

2. If the belt tension is normal, but the warning light is still on, check that the wiring harness block and the positive wire terminal are securely connected to the generator. Please note that wires may be broken or broken within the insulation.

3. Check the reliability of the wire connections to the battery terminals.

4. Check the integrity of the generator fuse in the engine compartment mounting block. Replace the blown fuse if necessary.

If, after all the measures taken, the charging lamp continues to light up while the engine is running, then most likely the generator is faulty (for example, the voltage regulator is faulty). We told you how to check the generator earlier.

The battery and generator are the two sources of electricity. The battery is used to start the engine and to recharge the vehicle's systems if the generator cannot cope with the load. The role of the generator is to provide power to current consumers in the on-board network when the engine is running and recharge the battery. It is this last function that will interest us. During operation, it is not uncommon for the battery to not charge during a trip or to receive insufficient charge. Let's look at the reasons for this.

Other causes of low voltage

A small potential difference in the system is not always associated with a breakdown of the generator or a bad battery

If the diagnosis of these elements does not reveal any problems, then you should pay attention to the following:

• condition of the battery terminals - connection density and oxidation;
• electrical wiring problems - oxidation, violation of its integrity;
• output contacts to electrical appliances;
• correctly selected energy consumers.

Each contact must be tightly adjacent and intact, that is, there must be no formations (for example, sulfation) that will disrupt the flow of current. Incorrect connection of contacts leads to accelerated battery discharge even when the car is not running.

To improve the connection of the elements of the car's electrical system, it is necessary to clean all contacts and restore the integrity of the wires by replacing them or connecting them and wrapping them with insulating tape.

In conclusion, I would like to repeat that stable operation of the car requires constant monitoring of all elements, and the generator should attract special attention. The battery is charged from it and provides electricity to the entire car system

Pay attention to all elements: generator brushes, slip rings, voltage regulator, equipment winding.

The most correct measurements should be carried out when the battery is fully charged and in various modes. Remember that the manufacturer links the characteristics of the generator to the number of engine revolutions - they help produce a certain current.

Detailed video on how to check the generator:

From the article you will learn what generator voltage is considered normal at idle and under load, how this parameter affects the service life of the battery.

Reasons why your car battery does not charge

Below we will discuss the reasons why the battery may not charge. Diagnosing a lack of charging is not difficult, since this will immediately affect the condition of the battery. If during a trip the generator does not charge the battery, then the charged battery will completely drain. If the generator charges the battery, but not enough, it will be more difficult to immediately understand. The battery will simply drain faster than usual. But most cars have a battery charge indicator. There is an indicator on the dashboard that lights up if there are problems charging the battery. If the indicator is on, this means that no current is supplied from the generator and the power supply to consumers in the vehicle network comes from the battery.

If this is your case, then let’s move on to the reasons for the lack of charging from the generator. You can also read about the reasons for battery overcharging. It is also necessary to rule out problems with the battery itself. How to check your car battery for performance, read the article at the link.

Fuse burned out

First, it’s worth checking whether the battery charge indicator on the instrument panel itself is lying. Otherwise, you will look for a reason where there is none.

The first thing to do is check the fuse.

Find the appropriate fuse in your vehicle's manual. This information is usually contained in the electrical section. Find the fuse, check its condition and replace it if necessary. You start the engine and if the indicator goes out, then everything is fine with the generator and no repairs are required. Return to content

Broken alternator belt

This is probably one of the most common reasons for a generator not charging. The alternator belt, no matter how high-quality it is, wears out and periodically needs to be replaced.

It is better to carry out scheduled replacement of the alternator belt

It is better to change the belt after a certain mileage, as indicated in the car manual, and not wait until it breaks somewhere along the way.

Alternator belt tension is loose

Another reason why the battery may not be fully charged from the generator. Even if the alternator belt is in good condition, its tension may simply weaken, and the alternator will not produce enough voltage to charge the battery. This can cause the car's battery to drain quickly while parked.

Adjusting the tension of the alternator belt does not take much time

In principle, there is nothing particularly complicated about adjusting the tension and you can do it yourself without contacting a service center. In most cases a wrench and pry bar are required.

Damaged wiring or contacts

Another common reason for the battery not charging from the generator is the wiring between them. Therefore, you should check the condition of the wire that goes from the positive terminal of the battery to the generator. The wire must be intact, without damage to the insulation, and the contacts must not be oxidized. If problems are observed, fix them. If it cannot be eliminated, then replace it. Return to content

Generator voltage regulator faulty

This problem is more serious and less common. Only experienced car enthusiasts can handle its removal. Since the crankshaft rotation speed is constantly changing, the voltage generated by the generator “floats”.

The voltage regulator constantly automatically changes the strength of the generator excitation current. As a result, the voltage supplied by the generator to the on-board network is maintained within certain limits. If the regulator fails, the battery begins to experience problems either from low or high voltage in the network.

You cannot operate your car with a faulty voltage regulator.

The diode bridge of the generator has failed

Another problem in the generator can be failure of the diodes. How can I diagnose this problem myself? Here you will need a multimeter or voltmeter. Start the engine, place the multimeter probes on the battery terminals and measure the voltage. Then squeeze the gas a little and watch the voltage. If the generator is working properly, it will increase. If it drops, then with a high degree of probability it can be said that the diode bridge has failed. The cause of diode failure is most often a short circuit.

A faulty diode bridge requires repair by an auto electrician.

The battery light is on - what does it mean?

There can be only one reason why the battery warning light comes on while the engine is running - there is no voltage supply from the generator or its value is insufficient.

The main malfunctions that lead to this:

1. Lack of quality contact at the battery terminals.
2. Damage to the alternator belt or loose tension.
3. There is no negative contact with ground.
4. An open circuit in the rotor excitation circuit or worn brushes in the generator.
5. Failures of the diode bridge are usually accompanied by a dim lighting of the battery light on the dashboard.
6. Fuse failure.
7. Malfunction of the relay regulator.

Before you start troubleshooting, pay attention to why the lamp is on. If there is no voltage supplied to the battery at all, then the lamp lights up correctly

In another situation, the operation of the signal indicator while charging is present significantly complicates the problem.

First of all, determine whether there is voltage on the battery. To do this, take a voltmeter (multimeter), start the engine and measure the required characteristic at the battery terminals.

If everything is in good condition, you will see readings in the range from 13.6 to 14.2 V. In this case, the battery is charging properly. If the results obtained differ significantly from normal, then there is some kind of breakdown in the system.

What do you need to remember?

We looked at the main reasons for the battery not charging from the generator. According to statistics, most motorists with such problems turn to service. This is normal, but the information will be useful to you in order to understand the cause of the breakdown on the spot. In addition, if you are aware of the situation, it will be difficult for cunning car service employees to extract extra money from you for repairs.

It’s one thing when you tell the mechanic, “I need to tighten the alternator belt,” and quite another, “I’ve got something broken there.” For this you will be charged twice as much.

And finally, what you need to remember when using the battery.

Periodically, with the engine running, check the voltage at the battery terminals. This value may differ on different cars, but should fall within the range of 13-14.4 volts. If the voltage is higher, then the process of hydrolysis of water with the release of hydrogen will actively occur in the battery. If the value is less, the battery will not charge normally when traveling.

In both cases, you need to contact a specialist to fix the problem.

A few words about how the battery-generator tandem works

Everyone, even a novice driver, knows that the battery interacts with the generator. After starting the engine, the battery goes into constant charging mode. After the engine speed increases, the voltage at the generator output also increases, which is not a “hum”.

In order to prevent the above described, a small relay-regulator is installed in the rotor excitation circuit, the task of which is to reduce the current to the optimal level, regardless of the engine speed. As a result, the voltage is maintained at the required level. The battery light comes on when there is no charging from the generator.

So, let's simulate the situation. You started the engine, but the battery light did not go out. What's the matter?

1. Faulty relay-regulator, diode bridge;
2. Poor tension of the generator belt, critical wear or belt slippage. Wear (play) of the generator bearing;
3. Blown fuse or poor contact;
4. Poor contact at the battery terminals, at the generator terminal or at the ground wire;
5. Open circuit of the generator excitation circuit, serious wear of the generator brushes or brush holders;
6. Wearing out the ignition switch is an option, but in this case several lights will light up at once.

Why is there no battery charging and where to look for it?

In fact, there are a great many reasons why charging may fail. And most of them are connected with the most important unit in this regard - the generator. Let's look at the main ones that can most often occur.

1. Wear of generator brushes on Priora. As mentioned above, when all the parts are still new and without wear, then such malfunctions essentially cannot exist. But when the mark is 90-100 thousand km. has already been overcome, the first calls begin. And the most common reason for the battery not charging is excessive wear of the brushes. This issue can be easily resolved - replace them with new ones. The price of the assembled part is about 350 rubles.
2. The second reason can also be compared with brushes, since it is with this part that they come into contact during operation. These are the armature slip rings. It is worth removing the plastic cover of the generator and looking at the contact points of the brushes and rings to understand how much wear these parts have had! It is not always possible to carry out this replacement on your own, but almost any electrician will do it in half an hour.
3. Failure of the generator diode bridge. Even if one of the diodes breaks through, there will be poor charging, which will lead to a constant discharge of the battery. In this case, the rectifier unit is replaced.
4. Failure of the regulator relay - it is replaced as an assembly with the brush assembly, while the brushes themselves can be replaced separately (again, with the help of a good electrician).
5. More serious problems occur with parts such as the stator, rotor, bearings, etc., which are actually much less common than the above cases.

How to increase?

A drop or too low voltage on the on-board network can be due to various reasons. Before increasing the network voltage from 5 to 12 Volts, you need to make sure that the car generator is functioning normally. If the energy loss is due to improper operation, then it is necessary to dismantle and repair the device, replacing the failed mechanisms with new ones.

Often this parameter drops due to a discharged battery, then perhaps it makes sense to diagnose it - check for cracks, replace the electrolyte, or charge it correctly. In terms of charging, certain points must be taken into account - the procedure must be carried out using only a working charger in compliance with all the rules and nuances. These points are described in detail in the article.

Installing a diode in the generator circuit

If the indicator in the electrical circuit drops, but this is not related to the operation of the generator or battery, then you can increase it on your own. The task is to “deceive” the generator regulator and make it “think” that the car’s on-board network has an even lower voltage than it actually is. Having done this, the generator device will replenish the necessary power reserve; to complete this task, a diode must be added to the power circuit of the unit. In particular, it should be installed as shown in the photo.

Symptoms of loss of battery charging on a Priora

The very first thing that many people pay attention to is that the battery charging light on the dashboard came on. If you have a multimeter at hand, you can measure the output charging current by connecting the contacts to the “+” and “-” terminals, respectively. If even without a load the device readings are less than 13 Volts, this indicates that there are certain problems with charging.

Of course, it is possible (although it is highly not recommended) to remove the “-” terminal from the battery while the engine is running, thereby checking the functionality of the generator. If the engine stalls, this will indicate that there is actually no charging, and accordingly, the generator is faulty.

Also, the charging lamp may glow at half-glow, which also indicates insufficient charging current. If one of the symptoms listed above occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the generator and its parts. If necessary, replace them with new ones. If you have anything to add to this article, you can comment below.

By the way, problems with charging on all those cars that I personally had to use occurred extremely rarely. For the most part, this began after the 90-100 thousand mileage mark. Priora is no exception. If on a relatively new car, when the new generator and all other components are in perfect order, these problems are practically eliminated, then on a used car, problems with battery charging can occur quite often.

What is important to consider when choosing a new battery

It is necessary to select the best battery for the Lada Priora, focusing on the following important parameters that affect the functioning of all basic and additionally installed electronic systems of the vehicle:

• the capacity of the new battery ranges from 60 to 65 Ah;
• straight polarity for normal use;
• date of manufacture of the device and its shelf life;
• dimensions in accordance with the seat.

When choosing which battery is better for a Priora, it is necessary to take into account the starting current parameter, which should be within the standard range, which will ensure stable operation of the device

When choosing which battery is best for a Priora, it is important to take into account all the nuances and factors that will help eliminate unpleasant situations when a light bulb does not light up or the battery quickly runs out. It is better to choose a battery for the Lada Priora from a trusted manufacturer, taking into account all installed equipment and additional electronic devices, which will ensure the best operation of the device

It is better to choose a battery for the Lada Priora from a trusted manufacturer, taking into account all installed equipment and additional electronic devices, which will ensure the best operation of the device

When choosing which battery is best for a Priora, it is important to take into account all the nuances and factors that will help eliminate unpleasant situations when a light bulb does not light up or the battery quickly runs out. It is better to choose a battery for the Lada Priora from a trusted manufacturer, taking into account all installed equipment and additional electronic devices, which will ensure the best operation of the device

Characteristics in the rating

The battery in a car plays one of the leading roles - it is its impulse that powers the engine. Comfortable operation of the vehicle depends on the technical properties and reliability of the battery. If there is additional electrical equipment (multimedia acoustic devices, sound amplifiers and much more), the battery must have a power reserve that allows it to maintain the operation of the on-board network without overloads.

The rating review presented below contains the best battery models that are suitable for popular VAZ models.

Why is there no battery charging and where to look for it?

In fact, there are a great many reasons why charging may fail. And most of them are connected with the most important unit in this regard - the generator. Let's look at the main ones that can most often occur.

1. Wear of generator brushes on Priora. As mentioned above, when all the parts are still new and without wear, then such malfunctions essentially cannot exist. But when the mark is 90-100 thousand km. has already been overcome, the first calls begin. And the most common reason for the battery not charging is excessive wear of the brushes. This issue can be easily resolved - replace them with new ones. The price of the assembled part is about 350 rubles.
2. The second reason can also be compared with brushes, since it is with this part that they come into contact during operation. These are the armature slip rings. It is worth removing the plastic cover of the generator and looking at the contact points of the brushes and rings to understand how much wear these parts have had! It is not always possible to carry out this replacement on your own, but almost any electrician will do it in half an hour.
3. Failure of the generator diode bridge. Even if one of the diodes breaks through, there will be poor charging, which will lead to a constant discharge of the battery. In this case, the rectifier unit is replaced.
4. Failure of the regulator relay - it is replaced as an assembly with the brush assembly, while the brushes themselves can be replaced separately (again, with the help of a good electrician).
5. More serious problems occur with parts such as the stator, rotor, bearings, etc., which are actually much less common than the above cases.

A few words about electrolyte

One of the main indicators by which you can judge the health of a battery is the electrolyte level. The voltage of the power supply depends on it under different operating modes.

In the process of discharging the battery, acid is consumed, the share of which in the total volume of liquid is a third (35-36%).

The result is a decrease in the density of the liquid. When the battery is charged, the reverse process occurs.

In such a situation, water is consumed, and acid, on the contrary, is formed. As a result, the density of the electrolyte increases.

In the normal state, when the battery voltage is 12.7 V, the density is 1.27 g/cc. Moreover, all parameters directly depend on each other.

Symptoms of loss of battery charging on a Priora

The very first thing that many people pay attention to is that the battery charging light on the dashboard came on. If you have a multimeter at hand, you can measure the output charging current by connecting the contacts to the “+” and “-” terminals, respectively. If even without a load the device readings are less than 13 Volts, this indicates that there are certain problems with charging.

Of course, it is possible (although it is highly not recommended) to remove the “-” terminal from the battery while the engine is running, thereby checking the functionality of the generator. If the engine stalls, this will indicate that there is actually no charging, and accordingly, the generator is faulty.

Important points

The voltage (U) and capacity of the car battery are the main parameters that need to be paid attention to when choosing and checking a power source. The main purpose of the battery is to start the engine during the period when the car's generator has not yet been connected to work, and the battery is the only power source

The main purpose of the battery is to start the engine during the period when the car's generator has not yet been connected to work, and the battery is the only power source.

To eliminate operational problems, the car owner should know the following points:

• What does the battery life depend on?
• What should the voltage be (in normal mode, after starting the engine and under load);
• What causes the decrease in capacity during the cold season and other issues.

Let's consider these questions in detail.