How to make triangular levers for a VAZ 2109 with your own hands

Hello. Today at VAZ Repair there is another photo report on repairs. In this article you will learn how to install wishbones on a Lada Priora at home. Step-by-step installation instructions will allow you to understand how to properly perform this work so that you can do the same yourself.

To work you need to prepare:

1. New brace nuts on “24”;
2. Extended bolts (in some cases necessary, depending on the manufacturer);
3. Caster adjusting washers (also just in case there is a gap between the lever axis and the beam);
4. A set of keys;
5. Puller for ball joint.

Lada 2113 › Logbook › Making the VAZ steer like a foreign car (wow wishbones)

Then we understand that due to the camber at the rear left, the rubber rubs against the strut (hello ss20 with offset).
Next, we buy a subframe and wishbones. But not in my case, because I don’t want to lose ground clearance and engine protection (ha ha). Therefore, we take an autoproduct crab strut on polyurethane (hereinafter referred to as PU), clubturbo wishbones on PU, an autoproduct lever strut, we also take ball tracks (so as not to leave anything stock in the suspension and not return to it) and spacers for the balls (so that at least a little -slightly return the suspension geometry after lowering).

In order to install the wishbones, you will need an extended stabilizer link bolt. Let's go and buy 2 bolts M10x1.25x100

We also buy a huge bunch of M16 washers, at least 10 pieces, preferably 20. Since our castor is now regulated not by a trailing arm, but by a thread, the triangular arm can (will be) shorter than the distance from the attachment of the arms to the crab. On one side I needed 7 washers, on the other 5 (hello AvtoVAZ errors, the car is all original), but most likely I have so many washers because the crab spacer is “under caster more than 2 degrees”, apparently the beam is slightly shifted forward, therefore I had to compensate for this with washers.

We install everything we bought.

Now there is nothing left in my suspension that is stock, except for the steering rack (which is new (which is already a little loose)). By the way, the drain protection does not fit on the car beam, I think just because it is “under caster more than 2 degrees”

We have already installed all these colorful spare parts, but I haven’t yet told you why the stock suspension is crap. So here it is. Look at what the stock lever 2108 looks like. Now imagine that when starting off, due to the fact that the longitudinal extension has an extremely awkward shape and is supported by two rubber silent blocks, it has free play, because of this, your wheel toe angles change under load. With the standard suspension, even in traffic jams you have to hold the steering wheel tightly so as not to accidentally drift into another lane. I'm not even talking about what happens to the suspension at speed when cornering, everything just goes wild there! Now we look at the wishbones and understand that they certainly won’t go anywhere. The intercrab crossbar is needed to increase rigidity, since standard turtles are a disease of all eight-shaped turtles. I'm not sure if a rear control arm brace is needed, but so be it.

Now about my feelings from installing all these tuning devices: - the car drives straight when starting smoothly - the car drives straight when starting hard with axlebox - the car drives straight when passing speed bumps - responsiveness to the steering wheel has seriously improved - the speed of turning into turns has increased significantly - the joints are steel hit harder in the back due to the fact that everything is on the control panel

Source

Front suspension device

The VAZ 2114 car received a chassis with a telescopic and independent device. To understand how the front suspension is repaired and serviced, you need to disassemble its structure and operating mechanism:

• The basis of the unit is the front pillar, which is a rotating support part. The strut includes a bearing, a spring and support cups. The strut is attached to the steering knuckle using a bracket. This part is attached to the body with bolts and a cup, which is placed in a glass. The rack is connected to the steering rod by a steering knuckle;
• The front hub is also embedded into the chassis of the VAZ 2114; it consists of a brake mechanism and a ball joint. A double-row bearing protects the hub parts from wear. When a bearing fails, free play occurs in the wheel, and a rumble can be cured by replacement. The hub is connected to the lower control arm. The hub is equipped with a support pin at the bottom;
• The lever is the connecting link between the VAZ 2114 body and the brace. This unit contains a stability stabilizer, which is responsible for the maneuverability of the car. One end of the stabilizer is fixed in the fastening element on the brace, and the other - on the brace of the second wheel;
• With the help of the control rod, the front wheel pair is rotated. The rod pulls the entire structure by an eye located on the stand; The stabilizer ensures synchronous operation of the front suspension; it is supported by ball joints from below and a bearing from above.

Lada 2115 1.5 16v › Logbook › Homemade wishbones

I think it’s no secret to anyone what triangular levers on a VAZ are. I started thinking about installing them a long time ago, because according to rumors and reviews on the Internet, they provide clearer control and simple caster adjustment. But along with the advantages of this design, there are also disadvantages, it is a more rigid structure, which in turn loads the body and the most painful place for Samara is the TV.

Despite the shortcomings and looking only at the advantages, I will still buy red triangular levers on polyurethane. Installation did not take much time, I removed one and installed a new one. Castor adjusted one side by eye, and the other using a tape measure, taking measurements from the previous one. I measured the distance from the ball nut to the bolt on the crab. I moved the wheels forward a little, judging by the reviews this also affects the control.

After driving for a couple of days, the steering became much better, there was no slackness, and the steering wheel responded clearly. Of the minuses, I didn’t like the harshness and sensitivity of bumps and cracks in the asphalt.

After thinking briefly, I decided to put back the saber stands) since the rigidity transferred to the body will have a detrimental effect, and what is also important is the design itself, or rather what it is welded from, it seemed to me like a flimsy design, especially since there were cases of their breakdowns and tore off on the move wheel. I don’t argue that maybe a leftist was caught, but I still didn’t like it.

But I didn’t stop there, I started digging through the net and trying to find out who made the homemade levers and from what. Everything is basically made from pipes and profiles, I understand that this is all done for lightness, but again, safety was the priority for me.

I started looking for other options and came across one. in the photo there was a triangular lever from a factory design to which another saber was simply welded. I liked this option better, but it’s still not the same, this design was reliable, but again it was rigid and would put a load on the body.

How is the renovation going?

For an example of chassis repair, it is worth examining the process of dismantling and installing the lever. Removing the levers is usually required to replace silent blocks, when worn, the suspension begins to creak and knock. The work proceeds as follows:

• The car must be lifted on a lift or jack, and then the wheel must be removed. After which you will have access to the ball joint pin - it needs to be disconnected;
• The nut that holds the tension bar must be loosened (it can be completely unscrewed in the next step);

Lada 2109 Porsche for the poor (c) › Logbook › Subframe Auto product with rigid levers

Modernization of this nature was not planned as such, but the circumstances developed in the most successful way. If we start a little further away, the situation is as follows. When the car fell into my hands, I knew very little about all the possible alterations and potential tuning. That is, even now knowledge is very relative, but at that time it was absolutely amazing. As is often the case, the general preliminary idea is somewhat different from how it actually is. Without a doubt, at first there was an opinion that almost every, even small, modification and piece of hardware should provide a tangible benefit. Having been using Moskvich cars for a long time, and having gotten used to the fact that “there is nothing”, the feeling of a thermonuclear number of options for improving the Lada was simply discouraging. Of course, I immediately turned to one very experienced person among the owners of VAZ sports cars, prepared for time attacks. By an interesting coincidence, we even knew each other for a very long time, during the rental karting days of the late 2000s. No one bothered to pound the water in a mortar, and the main theses were immediately outlined to me, which somewhat corrected the presentation. One of the few positive aspects of quarantine was that we were able to simply thoughtfully study other people’s cars and experiences. This is actually a completely separate topic, that people devote a lot of time to presenting information, which they can then use and study the topic. As I said, installing a subframe was not the goal from the very beginning, especially after I decided to weld and strengthen the TV frame. For the winter sprints I wanted to leave it as is, and next year just install a cross member and wishbones. But, without waiting for the first frosts, my dear friend finally gave me this gorgeous gift, which he threatened, but I didn’t completely believe. Subframe Auto product with rigid levers. According to the words, the item was removed from a wrecked car (it was hit in the rear), but essentially there are no traces of the use of the subframe, only small scratches from the installation and removal process. Needless to say, Autoproduct subframes are the best of their kind on the market. In fact, there are two types in nature: a cross subframe (Stinger, Clubturbo), and a spatial one like Autoproduct.

Both options, I have no doubt, improve the rigidity of the body and increase its service life. Even when the car appeared, I was considering a cross subframe due to its low cost, only as an element of strengthening the body in potential winter competitions. One of the reasons for the failure is the inability to install normal crankcase protection. Autoproduct subframe - variations on the theme 21106 and Kalinovsky NFR. And the geometry itself corresponds to how it looks on most cars. Accordingly, if the question is which one to buy, then the answer is obvious. Further differences come in the wishbones, if we are talking about an Auto product. There are two options: with rigid levers and adjustable ones. The second option, as you might guess, is more “sporty”, the first is a compromise.

Moreover, there is an option with levers that are made on the basis of factory ones (there are no daisies), this is the most widespread option.

There is also a more classic triangular cast lever, close to the “foreign” one. As I understand it, this entered the market relatively recently, so I have not yet seen similar options on D2. But these are the levers that I got.

Malfunctions and solutions

Knowing the running gear, you can do the repairs yourself. When driving, the greatest load falls on the front pillars; as a result, they quickly fail if associated with other structural parts. Repair involves replacing worn racks with new parts. To install new VAZ 2114 racks, you can use the article in the corresponding section of the website. As for the tools, the following will be useful for the job:

• Set of keys and sockets.
• Spring ties.
• Screwdriver Set.
• A special puller for pushing out the rod. This tool will also be needed for pressing out various parts (balls, silent blocks).

Wear on parts such as hubs occurs occasionally. Other operational drawbacks are associated with the failure of consumables, these include bearings, silent blocks, balls, and boots. Having repaired the chassis yourself, you need to visit a car service center, where specialists will perform a wheel alignment.

How to make triangular levers for a VAZ 2109 with your own hands

SSSashka

On foreign buckets the wheels also roll around.
I saw what kind of silent blocks on these levers - the size of a man’s fist, so there is no vibration + a substructure. and we have silent buoys and that’s why people get (relative to stock) a well-steering cart.
Added after 2 minutes 11 seconds:

It would be more logical to install it with a subframe.

Where will the impacts from pits, rails, and the like go?

in stock, these impacts are absorbed by the silent block of the front beam. if you put cocked hats on, then these blows will go to the bracket (ear, that’s what some people call it) for fastening the front suspension arm because there is a smaller silent block installed there, so it will transfer vibration to the body well (and in stock it only carries a lateral load - and after the modification, a longitudinal load will also be added) If you are already planning to install levers (or a spacer), then in the worst case it is necessary in the front beam introduce daisy bushings instead of stock silents to evenly distribute the load during braking and acceleration. FUH. I haven’t written so much for a long time.

Added after 42 minutes 28 seconds:

Are the VAZ triangles large?

FUH. I haven't written so much for a long time

Whether it’s high-quality or not, these colored pieces of iron still don’t suit me in terms of quality.

1. Cut off and digested the ears (1)

, moved them further from the silent block. Because these ears cling to the mount to the body.

Where will the impacts from pits, rails, and the like go?

Did you put it on the scale to compare with the stock?

pavel74 now I will doubt you in your= knowledge gpn

Take care of your own.

You say that there are no damping elements in your pictures, but I say that there are. And explain why the owners of these miracle pendants are overtaken by funeral processions on uneven roads?

You say that there are no damping elements in your pictures, but I say that there are.

And explain why the owners of these miracle pendants are overtaken by funeral processions on uneven roads?

That is why Tuaregs and cruisers crawl over holes, but I fly by without stopping. And not because I have bent soft sabers and dangling wheels, but with them everything is welded with reinforced concrete

I say that there are no sabers that allow the wheel to dangle like a ram in a hole. And this bumpiness, in your own words, is the reason for mega-comfort.

PS. By the way, on your similar design the lever is still springy.

PS. By the way, on your similar design the lever is still springy.

In your bottom picture there is a lever ala Renologan

The gaps there are much smaller than the Taz ones. However, I was never able to rub the wheel.

About Logan I confused the roofing felts with a Kia, or with a Hyundai.

Let's go back to the beginning of the argument.

Let's start with the fact that the saber-lever combination was not made by chance. The front saber block is movable relative to the lever bracket on the spar. Therefore, due to the variable load, the angle at the saber-lever connection is constantly changing. On Samaras, the front silent block is mounted on the TV. As a result of insufficient pliability, the crab either breaks or pulls out the fastening. In dozens, the attachment point was moved to the beam. The beam is more mobile than TV 08 and the problem with breaks is gone.

On cars with subframes, there are also a bunch of damping elements, including fastening the subframe to the body - it’s quiet and comfortable, but this doesn’t mean the long life of these same rubber-metal hinges and levers.

How many times have you driven your wheel into an open well at low speed?

Chassis modernization

There are many modernization methods, these include installing air suspension and a sports version. For example, it’s worth looking at an ordinary, but at the same time effective modernization - wishbones. This is a rigid and reliable unit that is installed instead of industrial parts, and specifically instead of silent blocks and a tension lever.

Triangular levers are installed to reduce corner slip and improve maneuverability. After installing these parts, the load direction changes to transverse. If you decide to install wishbones, then it is recommended to install a new set of gas supports along with them. Triangular levers can be installed with your own hands, but after that you need to perform a wheel alignment.

READ ZMZ 409 What Oil to Use

Tuning of VAZ 2110—2112 cars

This group of machines can be improved according to the same scheme as described above. Or go the other way - install a more functional suspension with your own hands, for example, from Priora.

This suspension is much stiffer, the steering wheel responds better to the driver, and it feels composed and clear. All the advantages are especially noticeable when passing through holes and depressions while the car is moving. The front end becomes a couple of centimeters higher.

Some, however, on the contrary, put the suspension from the VAZ 2110 on the Priora: for different car enthusiasts there are different preferences. It is impossible to come up with any statement that everyone will agree with 100%.

READ How to Check the Ignition Module of a VAZ 2110 16kl

Suspension tuning on a VAZ car 2110

Suspension tuning for VAZ 2108—2109

The "eight" and "nine" have essentially the same improvement methods as in the previous section. We recommend making the following changes yourself:

• install a stabilizer bar from a VAZ 2110 - it will help reduce roll when cornering;
• install Plaza gas shock absorbers at the front;
• make negative wheel camber;
• increase the pitch angle of the wheels at the front of the car.

This will help improve the performance and handling of your car.

Tuning the suspension of the VAZ 2109

Many experts claim that tuning the suspension of VAZ cars is inevitable if you want the car to listen to you well. To do this, you will have to make a number of changes to the design. They will make the landing lower and more stable, the steering wheel will be obedient, and they will give the car elasticity and composure.

To work you need to prepare:

• New brace nuts on “24”;
• Extended bolts (in some cases necessary, depending on the manufacturer);
• Caster adjusting washers (also just in case there is a gap between the lever axis and the beam);
• A set of keys;
• Puller for ball joint.

Tuning VAZ 2113—2115 cars

Front-wheel drive cars VAZ 2113, 2114 and 2115 are usually equipped with a sports suspension. It improves stability and controllability while driving:

• To begin with, we are modifying the front struts, turning them from oil-filled to gas-oil-filled. This is done by pumping gas into the working chamber. Thanks to this, the rod will automatically return to its original position after immersion;
• to protect yourself from the spring flying out while moving, we limit the stroke of the rod;
• standard rods can be replaced with “kailovers” - sports racks. They will make it possible to sit the car lower. This will give it stability. In this case, shortened springs are used, which helps to minimize the level of car roll when cornering;
• the above-described wishbones. They will provide improved car handling, precise suspension tuning and increased castor.

This is how we tune the suspension of models of the 2113-2115 group with our own hands, making it sporty. This improves handling, reduces roll, and increases your safety on the road while the car is moving.