Why doesn't the air conditioner work on Kalina? several solutions to the problem


Automobile: Lada Kalina. Asks: Sherstnev Andrey Essence of the question: The car stalled while driving and will not start!

Good afternoon, I have the same problem. I was driving my Lada Kalina car and suddenly it stalled, then I couldn’t start the car again, but the starter turns? I had to call a tow truck. What could be the reason for my problem?

Search and fix

1.Check the pressure in the system, if it is below the permissible level of 2 bar, the air conditioner may work, however, the air will be warm or not cool enough. 2. It also happens that the ambient temperature is less than +3 degrees Celsius, because when the minimum temperature threshold is reached, the air conditioner stops cooling. 3. Check the clutch fuse in slot F24 and relay K12. Carry out a visual inspection; the fuse must be intact and its seat must not have signs of oxidation or other abnormalities. Try wiggling the relay and if that is the problem, the air conditioner may start working. But keep in mind that if this was the reason, then it is worth carrying out repairs, otherwise the working relay may fail at the most inopportune moment. 4. The clutch may have burned out, and the air conditioner refuses to work because of this. If the compressor itself jams, specific clicks will be heard and the clutch will rotate freely. 5. If the air conditioning works but does not produce warm or hot air, then the cause may be a low freon level. This happens when there is leakage through loose connections. In this case, a special liquid is poured into the system, which glows when exposed to UV rays. The leak is detected and corrected, and then the system is refilled with freon.

If troubleshooting the air conditioner does not produce results, I advise you to contact specialists; if they have the necessary special equipment, they can easily find the cause and quickly eliminate it.

We wash Kalina's air conditioner video

Spark plug

If everything is in order with the electronic filling, you should look for the problem in the candles. Often, and especially in winter, spark plugs flood.

Compression in the engine in cold weather does not meet the standards, so the engine may not start immediately. Often flooding of spark plugs occurs due to a discharged battery, which is unable to produce a normal spark. If not, the reasons may also be in the wiring or the spark plugs themselves. The easiest way to dry the spark plugs is to press the gas to the floor and crank the engine with the starter two or more times. Often, after this the car will start. If this does not help, then for more thorough drying you should dismantle the spark plugs, then clean them, check the gap, and then dry them with a hairdryer or in the oven.

Why doesn't the air conditioner work on Kalina? Several solutions to the problem

The diagnostic procedure for identifying the reason why the air conditioner on Kalina does not work is complicated by the design feature of its location in the cabin. In order to visually inspect all the components of the air conditioner, it is necessary to disassemble the “dashboard” almost completely, and this involves more than a dozen screws. True, air conditioning is installed only on the “luxury” version of the Kalina and on the Kalina 2, the second generation model of the LADA 1119.

The air conditioning on Kalina may not work for several reasons:

    malfunctions of the temperature control sensor in the evaporator;

Immobilizer

The first reason why your Lada Kalina does not start, and which is easy to notice for yourself, is the immobilizer. If he blinked and beeped - sushi oars, sit down and read the manual. This problem is quite common and it is not easy to fix it, there is a lot of hassle, dancing with a tambourine and the like.

However, in the manual there is usually a decoding of the flashlight, which is illuminated by the light bulb - we count the seconds between flashes, the number of flashes, the number of buzzer signals - and look in the booklet what is written there about this.

In winter, it often happens that the car starts the fifth or sixth time . Most often this is solved by retraining the key, I won’t describe this problem, everything is in the manual, there shouldn’t be any problems.

Checking air conditioning equipment

The first step

When checking a non-working air conditioner, you should inspect the circuit board with fuses and relays. A relay switch labeled K12 is responsible for the safety and switching of power supply to the electrical units of the air conditioner on Kalina and the first and second modifications.

The air conditioning power supply fuse plate is designated F24

. You need to make sure that they are in good condition, as well as the strength of the contact connection between the relay and the board.

There are situations when the interior air conditioning equipment is operational, but at the same time the air conditioner does not function. This may be caused by:

  • the evaporator temperature has dropped to a critical level below +3°C;
  • the amount of freon liquid has decreased, thereby reducing the pressure in the system to less than 2 bar.

The above reasons for malfunction are typical for compressor air conditioners. This is exactly what is installed on the Lada 2119. When using them, you must strictly follow all the requirements of the instructions, since this is a rather capricious equipment.

Operating principle

To better understand the nature of the malfunction of the climate control system on Kalina, it is advisable to have an understanding of both its design and operating principle.

The compressor unit is belt driven

. Quite often it is the pulley that causes the air conditioner to fail. When replacing it, it is necessary to install a belt of identical length. To do this, when buying a new belt, you need to have the old one on hand for comparison.

Summarizing

It is advisable that the starter spins the engine crankshaft during an attempt to start it for no more than 10 seconds, then the device must be given a minute pause. Failure to comply with this rule will, at best, lead to a discharge of the power source, and at worst, it will completely disable the starter. Only replacing it can save the situation, since not every auto electrician will undertake the task of rewinding burnt windings, since it is not always possible to perform this procedure efficiently. In addition, the cost of this service is comparable to the cost of a new element.

The wiring diagram for hatchbacks 2112 is a unique thing in itself. In order for voltage to appear on the solenoid relay, the following parts must be in good working order: the ignition switch, the ECU unit and two more relays - the main and additional ones. Some cars do not have an additional relay, which can be considered good luck. But, if when you turn the key on a VAZ-2112 the starter does not turn, then the fault must be looked for in the wiring. A broken immobilizer code can also cause problems. The last malfunction can be cured by replacing the ECU or disabling the immobilizer. Well, let's look at something simpler.

Example in the video: the immobilizer was damaged and the starter stopped working.

Signs of a malfunctioning air conditioner

The air conditioner and the entire air conditioning system are considered to be working properly if a click is heard when the main unit is turned on. Auto mechanics identify several signs why the air conditioner on a Lada Kalina does not work. Malfunctions can be easily fixed with your own hands. If the unit is turned on without interruption, and the coupling makes extraneous sounds and gets hot, the cause of such a breakdown is related to the bearing. Repairing the air conditioner in this situation involves replacing the part.

If you do not hear a click, the following problems may exist:

  • refrigerant leak, which contributes to blocking of the control system (this is the main reason why the compressor on Kalina does not turn on);
  • pressure sensor malfunction;
  • the coil winding burned out;
  • The compressor does not turn on due to the motor control being blocked.

Components of the climate system

Easy and free rotation of the clutch, which is accompanied by extraneous noise, can cause compressor failure. There is no repair of the internal part of the compressor. The unit is replaced with a new one of the same type, fully assembled.

If the air conditioner is started and a click is heard, but the air in the Kalina cabin does not cool, it means that the compressor is running idle. Only qualified auto mechanics can detect such a breakdown. To do this, specialists use special control and diagnostic equipment. This procedure allows you to determine the exact cause of the air conditioner failure.

Replacing the starter relay

There are times when you try to start the engine, there is simply a click, but the starter does not turn.
Accordingly, it will not be possible to start Kalina in this case. This problem occurs in most cases due to a faulty solenoid relay. In order to replace it, it is not at all necessary to remove the starter from Kalina; all this can be done on site. You just need to free up access to the mechanism. To do this, you can remove the entire air filter housing so that it is out of the way. Read more about this in the first half of the article here.

And one more thing: initially disconnect the terminal from the battery.

Main components of the system

The air conditioning system in Lada Kalina includes various components, one of which is a condenser. This device is located in front of the engine cooling radiator in the corresponding compartment. It is fixed with brackets. Its honeycombs are made of aluminum tubes, which contain longitudinal partitions and ribs that improve heat transfer.

The tanks are made of aluminum and equipped with flanges that are connected to the pipelines. Each tank has sections. When the air conditioner is turned on, the fan starts, which improves heat exchange and reduces pressure in the system. If the part does not work, the capacitor is repaired.

The cabin filter should be changed periodically

It is recommended in the spring to wash the fins A and B of the unit from dirt that has accumulated on its surface. Such prevention improves heat transfer, reducing pressure and increasing the service life of the entire condensing system.

Do not wash the condenser with special installations that release a stream of water under high pressure, otherwise the thin-walled plates may be damaged. Using this flushing method results in frequent replacement of the capacitor. This is due to the fact that he is the first to fall under the flow of reagents and pebbles.

DIY mechanism repair

If the mechanism does not work, it must be removed. To do this, you need an open-end wrench set to “13”.

1. The process of unscrewing the fastening bolts 2. Dismantling the mechanism from the car 3. New mechanism for replacement

The removal procedure consists of the following steps:

  1. First, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
  2. Then we dismantle the air filter.
  3. Next, disconnect the traction relay control wire.
  4. Now you need to disconnect the power cable. To do this, move away the protective rubber cap, under which there is a positive wire.
  5. Then unscrew the nut that secures the power cable.
  6. Disconnect this wire, as well as the wire located nearby.
  7. Next, unscrew the nuts with a “13” wrench that secure the starter. Two are located on top, and the third can be felt with your hand below.
  8. After unscrewing all the nuts, you can remove the device from the studs.

Valve and evaporator design features

The evaporator is located in the air conditioner unit and is presented in the form of aluminum tubes with fins. The latter elements improve heat transfer. When the cabin fan turns on, air masses blow through the evaporator tubes. The air, cooling, flows into the cabin. At the bottom of the evaporator there is a tray and a drainage hole, which is designed to remove excess moisture from the interior of the Lada Kalina. Therefore, this hole must be free.

Another equally important element of the air conditioning system is the thermostatic valve, which is located in the evaporator housing. The refrigerant, passing through the hole, reduces the pressure and begins to boil. The valve body has a control element that changes the flow area of ​​the hole taking into account:

If during the repair or replacement of parts of the air conditioning system at least 1 unit was opened, the receiver must be replaced with a new one. Otherwise, when charging the system, the refrigerant will not be drained. Acids can form inside the air conditioner, destroying parts of the main device.

Pipelines are used to combine all elements of the system into a single circuit. They are made of aluminum alloys. The manufacturer Kalina recommends protecting metal sections of pipelines from kinks and dents. Otherwise, the performance of the air conditioning system will be reduced. Moving parts in certain areas have synthetic inserts.

In those places where the pipeline is connected, an O-ring is installed. When repairing an air conditioner in the event of disconnection of sections of pipelines, the O-rings are replaced with new parts. If the pipeline connection is presented in the form of a thread, it is tightened to a certain point. It must be taken into account that excessive or weak tightening can lead to deformation of the sealed areas and leakage of refrigerant.

Radiator flushing

Flushing the radiators of a standard air conditioner is a necessary procedure if it is used frequently. Not so long ago, during abnormally high heat in the central part of Russia, experts from the magazine “Behind the Wheel” tested a 2008 Kalina. They were convinced that in persistently hot weather it was simply impossible to do without this, otherwise, at best, they would only have to lower the windows, hoping for at least a faint breath of breeze. The air conditioning system of the Lada Kalina car has another important part - a condenser, which is located in front of the engine radiator.

It consists entirely of aluminum tubes that need to be cleaned from time to time. Cleaning the radiator-condenser involves removing it from its original place and washing it with detergents. There is no need to completely disconnect it from the entire system; just remove it from the mount and clear the space between it and the radiator of the engine cooling system. It is noted that washing cannot be done with a jet of water under pressure, otherwise it will lead to malfunction and the device will need to be replaced.

In the evaporator body, as mentioned above, there is a temperature valve, which is adjusted only by the manufacturer and cannot be adjusted independently. This part is very important, since the normal supply of refrigerant to the climate system depends on it. There is also a filter in front of the valve that cleans freon from possible contaminants. A dirty filter needs to be changed immediately so that the air conditioner can work without problems.

The air conditioner is on a par with such great household inventions as the washing machine, television, telephone, and the Internet. Having bought a car with air conditioning, I am sure that the car enthusiast will never change to a car without air conditioning. How nice it is in hot weather, when the temperature outside is more than 30 degrees Celsius, to drive in comfortable conditions, with a temperature inside the car of 22-23°C. It must be said that this is not only comfort, but also traffic safety, since in hot conditions older generation motorists are more susceptible to sudden deterioration in health, which directly increases the danger of accidents on the road.

However, like any “medal”, a car air conditioner has a “downside” - this is a higher cost of the car; increased fuel consumption when the air conditioning is on; a noticeable drop in engine power when the air conditioning is turned on on cars with a small engine capacity.

Below I present my thoughts and advice on operating a car with a small engine capacity with the air conditioning on, in order to minimize fuel and power losses, under more or less comfortable interior climate conditions.

The story is about a Lada-Kalina (station wagon) with a 1.4 engine (16-valve). I can say that when the car is fully loaded (5 adults), in the urban cycle, with the air conditioning turned on at full power (temperature switch in the extreme left position, fan switch at maximum - “4”) - the 1.4 engine on the Lada Kalina becomes so “wobbly” that at traffic lights, when starting from a stop, you have to apply the gas quite hard so that the car does not stall. There is no need to talk about acceleration dynamics at all. Fuel consumption is simply “space” - within 12-15 l/100 km. However, if you use the air conditioner in the “minimum configuration” (temperature switch in the vertical position (20 °C); fan switch in the minimum position - “1”), then the engine “breathes much more freely”, which affects both driving dynamics and fuel consumption. Let's look at how to avoid “peak” loads so that both the driver and passengers are comfortable, and the car is “not in the lather.”

Let's look at the most typical situations in which you have to use a car air conditioner.

Situation 1: Turning on the air conditioner while driving when the temperature rises gradually

For example, we left early in the morning, when the weather was still cool outside; of course, we drove with the windows open and did not turn on the air conditioning. Gradually, as the sun rises, the air temperature “overboard” increases so much that the time comes to turn on the car air conditioner.

Don't wait until the inside of your car gets so hot that it becomes unbearably hot. The optimal moment to turn on the air conditioner is when the temperature in the cabin is still quite comfortable, but the air outside has already warmed up to more than 25°C. It’s time to “batten down the windows” and turn on the air conditioner with minimum fan speed when the interior temperature switch is set to 20°C (vertical position), while the interior ventilation valve should be in the “normal” position - air enters the car interior from the outside.

Thus, a comfortable temperature will be maintained in the car interior, with a slight drop in engine power and relatively low fuel consumption.

Situation 2: turning on the air conditioner after parking the car in the sun

This situation is typical, for example, when traveling to the market - we park the car (often in the open sun) for a long time (several hours), and there is no ventilation of the interior, since the car is “tightly sealed.”

When the time comes to move on, then, of course, opening the car doors, we find ourselves “in Tashkent” - the temperature inside the car is sometimes more than 40°C. In such cases, if time permits, you should not immediately get into the car and start driving - you should open the doors (or at least the windows) of the vehicle in order to ventilate the interior and reduce the temperature in it. After this, if time again allows, you need to start the engine, close all the windows, set the ventilation valve to the air recirculation position, when air will not be taken from the outside, and turn on the air conditioner at maximum power in order to cool the interior as quickly as possible. Thus, the maximum load on the engine, which is exerted by the air conditioner turned on to maximum, will occur at idle (when the car is stationary). Having cooled the interior to a comfortable temperature (usually 3-5 minutes is enough), you can switch the air conditioner to minimum mode and start driving, not forgetting to move the car interior ventilation damper to its normal position, when air is taken from the street.

If there is no time to cool the interior “on the spot”, then the above actions will have to be performed in the direction of travel. It should be borne in mind that the dynamics of the car are greatly reduced, so this circumstance must be constantly taken into account when driving in dense city traffic.

Finally, I’ll say one more not very pleasant feature of the 1.4 engine in a Lada Kalina with the air conditioning on - sudden changes in engine torque at a constant throttle position. Simply put, the driver does not change the position of his foot on the accelerator pedal (moves at a constant speed in a straight line), but when the air conditioning is turned on, the engine “by itself” may gain or lose some power (most likely, this is due to a change in the load it gives air conditioning compressor - probably, when a certain temperature is reached, it turns off, thereby increasing engine power, and vice versa). The changes in dynamics are not very significant, but they can become an unpleasant surprise in certain driving situations - when overtaking a vehicle or when driving in heavy traffic without maintaining a distance from the car in front. At the moment of a sudden change in engine power, the driver feels as if his car is “resting” on something or, on the contrary, “making a leap forward”.

In light of all of the above, my advice to Lad-Kalin car enthusiasts with a 1.4 engine when driving with the air conditioning on is to try to keep a slightly greater distance from the cars around you than usual, and take into account the weak acceleration dynamics during maneuvers.

Viburnums with air conditioning (climate system) differ from a conventional stove in the following elements: a button to turn on the air conditioner appears (number 3 in the figure), its own temperature regulator with drawn values ​​is installed (number 5, a special difference from a conventional stove regulator in reverse adjustment, that is Where it is hot at the regulator of a conventional stove, it is cold at the regulator with air conditioners). Also, in cars with air conditioning, an additional interior temperature sensor is installed in the interior lighting.

First, we will name all the air conditioner control elements, and then we will describe what each one does and the operating principle itself:

  1. Fan speed control.
  2. Air intake regulator, recirculation.
  3. Air conditioning button.
  4. Air flow direction regulator.
  5. Exhaust air flow temperature regulator.

Fan speed controller

This regulator has 5 positions: Off, 3 flow speeds and maximum speed. I put the maximum speed in a separate paragraph, since this speed works without a resistor and works even if it burns out. When the regulator is positioned in zone 0, all electrical elements of the system are turned off.

Recirculation, air intake regulator

This regulator is responsible for where new air will come from, either from the street or from your cabin. It has 2 positions: street and interior, although you can also set the central position (partially taken from the street and partially from the interior). It is not advisable to turn on recirculation from the cabin for a long time, since fresh air will not flow into the cabin and the condition of the people in the car may worsen.

Air conditioning button

This button starts the air conditioning compressor itself and the interior radiator of the air conditioner begins to cool; it only works when the fan speed is turned on. Until 2011, the air conditioning indicator was not connected, although it was provided for in the design.

Airflow direction control

With this regulator you can set where the cooled or heated air flows will come out. Basic 4 positions: windshield only, center ducts only, feet only, feet and windshield. For faster cooling or heating of the interior, I advise you to use the position of the central air ducts, and otherwise use the position: legs and windshield. This is especially necessary when the air conditioner is operating in cooling mode, so that you do not get blown out.

Temperature regulator

With this regulator you indicate to the climate system what temperature the interior should be. A viburnum with an air conditioner has 2 radiators installed in the stove: the heated engine cooling liquid flows through one, and the air conditioner freon flows through the other (which cools when the air conditioner button is turned on). Depending on the set temperature, the damper regulates which radiator and how much air to pass through in order to achieve the desired result. If the regulator is turned to the far left position (cooling), then all the incoming air passes through the air conditioner radiator, and if it is turned to the far right, then through the second heating radiator.

In other positions, that is, exactly the desired temperature is set, the controller comes into play, which sets the temperature from 2 factors: the interior temperature and the desired temperature. Let's consider the following possible options for operating the climate system at a given temperature:

  • The temperature of the cabin is much lower than the set one
    (for example, morning in winter), and you
    set the temperature to 22 degrees
    - first the climate system will start supplying the hottest air possible, while the cabin is warming up, information is taken from the cabin temperature sensor and when the set temperature is reached, the temperature of the outlet flow from the nozzles will drop to the set temperature . Often people do not understand what is happening, feeling a sharp change in temperature towards cold, and I start turning up the regulator, heating begins again and when it reaches a decrease. I advise you to just be patient for N time and you will become quite comfortable.
  • The interior temperature is higher than the set one
    (summer day), and you set it to
    18 degrees
    - from personal experience, a slightly different algorithm works, the dampers are placed so that the air at the set temperature is immediately supplied.

The very inclusion of the air conditioner affects the temperature of the radiator (evaporator) of the climate itself.

To ensure that the interior of the Lada Kalina car, including the 8 class, has comfortable climatic conditions, part of which is the air conditioner radiator. The article is devoted to the air conditioning system: it examines the principle of operation, the main breakdowns and their elimination, and also provides instructions for refueling the air conditioner with your own hands.

The air conditioner does not work on the Lada Kalina - causes and troubleshooting

A faulty air conditioner, especially in the hot season, is a very unpleasant occurrence. Being left without a source of coolness on a hot, sultry day is like being left in the desert without a drop of water. Well, perhaps this is not a very good comparison and perhaps slightly exaggerated, but sometimes non-working “air conditioning” evokes just such associations.

Today I will try to answer the question: “ Why does the air conditioner not work?” ". You will learn about the most likely causes of failure, as well as how and where to look for them. Go!

Diagnosing malfunctions of the Lada Kalina air conditioner becomes more complicated, primarily due to design features and “inconvenient” location. To get to the "cond" sometimes you have to dismantle almost half the interior.

A few words about the reasons for the malfunction of the Lada Kalina air conditioner

  • Power outages.
  • Interruptions in the operation of the evaporator temperature control sensor.
  • Compressor clutch malfunction.
  • Failure of the pressure level control sensor in the air conditioner coolant line.
  • Low freon level in the cooling system.

Description

As you know, any Priora and Kalina have a cooling system that ensures normal engine operation and helps prevent overheating. One of the devices that allows you to cool the power unit is a fan sensor, upon the signal of which the ventilation device should turn on.

On Kalina, this controller is designed to activate the fan when the engine temperature reaches a certain point. Thanks to the fan, which must turn on based on a signal from the controller, the engine temperature will always be normal and will not exceed the permissible threshold. If the device does not work, the fan will not turn on, and the engine may overheat.

Sensor connection diagram in the cooling system

Air conditioner troubleshooting

  1. The first step, as a rule, is to check the clutch fuse in slot F24, as well as relay K12. The fuse must be intact, and its seat must not have traces of oxidation or other abnormalities. It is enough to move the relay itself, if the problem is in it, then while moving it the air conditioner may start working. However, you should not assume that the problem has been solved; in the future, such a half-working relay may fail again at the most inopportune moment.
  1. It happens that a completely serviceable air conditioner is “recorded” as faulty. For example, when the ambient temperature is less than +3°C, you should not expect coolness from the air conditioner; after reaching the minimum permissible temperature threshold, the air conditioner stops cooling.
  1. Check the pressure in the system; if for some reason it drops below 2 bar, the air conditioner may work, but the air will be warm or at least not cool enough.
  1. The clutch is jammed. Sometimes the cause of the malfunction lies in a failed clutch; if it burns out, the air conditioner will not start. If the compressor itself jams, the clutch will rotate freely, but characteristic clicks will be heard.
  1. If the air conditioning works, but blows warm, then the reason may be a low level of freon, leakage of which could occur through leaks in connections or through holes formed as a result of mechanical stress. In this case, a special liquid is poured into the system, which glows when exposed to UV rays. The leak is detected, repaired, and then the system is refilled with freon.

Lada Kalina wagon Luta › Logbook › Replacing the ignition switch. Fiddling with keys

Breakdown I left the store with my wife, child and bags of groceries - got into the car and inserted the key - turned the key - something in the lock clanked and the car stopped responding to turning the key in the lock. After the 20th attempt to pick the key in the ignition, the car miraculously started up. But the key could be pulled out and the car would still start. Thanks to Kalina for the fact that, despite the breakdown, she took us home again and again. At home, the car had to be turned off in a barbaric way - to move away by pressing the brake. The car stalled, but the ignition was turned on despite the fact that the key was taken out. In short, some spring in the ignition switch burst and all the modes there were lost. While I was looking for spare parts, I removed the battery terminal and locked the car with the key through the door. (It turned out, by the way, that the passenger door closes with a flag only when it is closed).

Spare parts and tools A DAAZ lock was purchased (with a wire for the immobilizer) + 4 bolts to rip off the heads.

lock with cylinders, red key and key blank with buttons

bolts with shear heads. You need 4 of them

We will also need: 1. Phillips screwdriver 2 chisel and hammer 3 10mm wrench

The repair itself 0. remove the terminal from the battery 1. Remove the steering rack cover. 2. Disconnect the ignition and immobilizer pads

disconnect the immobilizer and ignition terminals in viburnum 3. Use a strong, but short and narrow chisel and hammer. We knock down the bolts tangentially (counterclockwise). They give in pretty quickly if the chisel is good.

unscrew the bolts with a chisel/chisel. Then, either with your fingers or long-nose pliers, unscrew the bolts. 4. We install the lock “in reverse order”, do not forget to connect the wire blocks and put on the casing. We put the battery terminal back on.

5. We put the new key into the new lock. In anticipation... and... AND THE CAR WILL NOT START! Why? Because the immobilizer won’t let you in! What to do: 5.1. Remove the red cap from the new black key and remove the chip from under the cap. We do the same with the old red key. I swap the chips. We use a new key with an old chip - a second old key with a new chip or archive it. Or the old key on a key fob without a chip, and the new chip itself in the archive.

changing 5.2 chips. Changing the tip in a key with buttons changing the tip in a key with buttons on a viburnum

6. In our free time, we try to change the cylinders in the doors and trunks. And before this replacement, we hang the old car key on the key fob (preferably without a new chip, so as not to confuse the immobilizer).

Well now everything should work!

If the air conditioner on your LADA does not work well or does not turn on

LADA cars are equipped with a compressor type air conditioner. During operation, malfunctions may appear in the operation of the climate system (does not turn on, is noisy, hums, or does not cool well). If you encounter similar problems, you can determine the cause of the breakdown yourself.

1 – capacitor; 2 – pipeline connecting the compressor to the evaporator; 3 – pipeline connecting the condenser to the evaporator; 4 – pipeline connecting the compressor to the evaporator; 5 – thermostatic valve; 6 – evaporator; 7 – compressor; 8 – pipeline connecting the compressor to the condenser; 9 – pressure sensor.

The air conditioning device on all modern LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Priora, Kalina and Niva 4x4) has no fundamental differences. Therefore, checking its operation is carried out in a similar way.

Stalls at idle

Today I received a question in the mail from a reader of the Lada Kalina blog. Since such a problem has never arisen and I can’t even imagine the cause of such a malfunction, I decided to put the question up for discussion.

Hello. I really like your blog, I learned a lot of useful things.

I want to ask your advice. A problem arose when disconnecting the “-” terminal of the battery and then connecting it; when driving, the Lada Kalina hatchback 2007 stalls at idle and so on all day. It does not stall if you go from 3rd gear to 2nd then to 1st and only then to neutral. And so on all day.

The next day everything is fine if you do not disconnect the battery. I installed a new idle speed relay and first cleaned the throttle assembly. Sincerely, Arthur.

How to check the operation of the air conditioner

When turning on the air conditioner:

  • there should be a click - this is the pressure disk, under the action of an electromagnetic clutch, engages with the drive pulley, and the compressor rotor begins to rotate.
  • The electric fan of the cooling system should turn on (how to check the fan)
  • The temperature of the air leaving the air ducts must decrease. If cold air does not flow from the deflectors, you should check the condition of the accessory drive belt.

If there is no click when the air conditioner is turned on, the following reasons are possible:

  • There is a refrigerant leak and the control system blocks the compressor from turning on.
  • The pressure sensor in the system is faulty.
  • faults in electrical circuits, check fuses and relays (fuse box: XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Priora, Kalina, Lada 4×4).
  • break in the electrical circuit of the electromagnetic clutch coil winding.
  • The engine control unit for some reason (high coolant temperature, dead battery) blocked the compressor from turning on.

If there is any extraneous noise in the operation of the air conditioner ( noisy, humming, crackling

etc.), these may be signs of the beginning of destruction of the air conditioner clutch bearing. In this case, it may become warm or there may be burning odors.

If the clutch rotates easily and freely, but there is still noise when the air conditioner is turned on

or even the engine stalls, then most likely the compressor is jammed. The internal pumping part of the compressor cannot be repaired (replacement only).

If the clutch easily rotates the compressor shaft, but there is no cool air

. In this case, it only seems that the compressor is working, but in reality it is not pumping anything. Only an experienced specialist can determine the cause in this case.

Also the cause of poor operation of the air conditioner ( barely cool air blows

) the condenser (air conditioner radiator) may be dirty. Don't forget to have your air conditioning system serviced regularly.

If the air is not blowing well

, check the cabin air filter.

Attention!

If possible, carry out all work related to maintenance, repair, and dismantling of air conditioning system elements in specialized service centers. Contact of refrigerant on the skin will cause severe frostbite! It is recommended to only clean the air conditioner yourself.

Reasons for blocking

If you are confident in your knowledge of electrical circuits, you can try to figure out on your own what has gone wrong in your system. The most likely are:

  • blown fuses. They are checked and changed first, just in case;
  • discharged battery. That is, it has not yet died completely, the horn can buzz, the headlights can turn on. But the crackling sound that accompanies turning the key is the work of the retractor relay, and blocking the engine is also his doing;
  • temperature sensor (if it is included in the alarm package). To check, just fold back the sensor attached under the hood;
  • limit switches on the trunk or hood lid. With high humidity (spring or autumn), they tend to oxidize. Although professionals believe that this phenomenon is due to illiterate installation of the alarm system.

However, it is worth considering that the reasons for the non-standard operation of the system may be hidden much deeper. In particular, it may already be completely worn out and require replacement, or its sensors may become covered. If the options you have tested do not give the desired results, it is better to go to a service center: they will know exactly what to do if the alarm blocks the engine from starting.

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