VAZ 2112 does not start: reasons, how to eliminate it. It won’t start but the starter turns VAZ 2110-2112 injector 16 valves reasons

Automobile: VAZ-2112. Asks: Abramov Ivan. Essence of the question: The engine does not start at all, what should I do?

Hello! I had such a problem that the engine would not start at all! At first it stalled when it was hot, and then it all started with the starter turning, but the fuel pump could not be heard, after some time the fuel pump began to hum, the starter turned, but the engine did not catch. I don’t know what to think anymore, please tell me?!

What you need to know about diagnostics

Simple advice: you don’t need to take your car to be scanned.
Due to the fact that laptops are now in almost every home, there are a lot of unscrupulous establishments where you can undergo such a check. When the program does not notice any errors, they tell you that there is nothing wrong with your car. By and large, this diagnosis can be called a simple pumping of money. A good diagnosis should proceed as follows:

• Errors are read first.

• The signals coming from the sensors on the injector are checked.

• The pressure created by the fuel is measured.

At the very end, you should receive the correct answer about what happened and what you have to do with the car in the future.

If a car enthusiast has an engineering streak, he can try to find the reason why the VAZ-2112 does not start. In this case, you can fix the problem yourself, saving on service costs.

If wet

If wet candles are found, they must be removed and dried.

Next, they should be installed in their place. If after such work the car still does not start, and the spark plugs are filled with gasoline, the next step is to check the timing marks. To do this, remove the plastic casing and check the marks on the camshaft and its gear; Don’t forget about the mark on the crankshaft gear. If they are in the wrong position, there is a violation of the gas distribution. It is also worth checking the key, in close combination with which the DPKV works. The second reason why spark plugs may flood is clogged nozzles. In this case, they need to be cleaned.

VAZ 2112 16 valves does not start reasons - Auto repair

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns Quite often, owners of domestic cars are interested in the question of why the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start.

Such an unpleasant moment can occur at the most inopportune moment, at any time of the year, far from service centers or repair shops. It is advisable for each driver of these models to become familiar with the list of possible faults.

This will allow you, in some cases, to independently find the problem that has arisen, and then fix it and continue operating the machine.

The starter turns, but VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 and 2115 do not start. This happens most often in the cold season, and if there is no proper care and maintenance of the car, it can happen at any time. In this article we will try to consider in detail all possible problems with starting the engine at any time of the year. Such problems can occur with both carburetor models and injection power units.

Why doesn't the engine start?

Difficulties with starting or its impossibility can arise for a variety of reasons. The culprits should be looked for in the following devices:

Fuel system malfunctions for all types of engines;
Problems in the electrical equipment of the machine.

It should also be taken into account that starting the engine in cold weather is significantly different from carrying out this operation at above-zero temperatures. We will not touch upon problems with the battery and starter; we will assume that everything is in order with them, so we will focus only on the problems of the power unit.

Fuel system, what's wrong with it?

The principles of fuel supply in carburetor and injection engine models are different, but periodically occurring malfunctions are largely similar. Fuel supply in both systems is carried out by a fuel pump. In the carburetor model it has a mechanical drive; in injection models it is an electric pump that creates high pressure in the fuel rail. Both types of pumps have built-in fuel filters, the clogging of which leads to failures when trying to start the engine.

An electrically driven fuel pump may not work due to the lack of supply voltage at its terminals. The culprit for this situation may be a blown fuse or broken wires. Problems may arise due to the fault of the carburetor; clogged jets will prevent the engine from starting. But most of the problems in the fuel system are inherent in the injectors.

In such systems there are several sensors that monitor and regulate the operation of the power unit. Failure of the DPKV will make starting the engine impossible. Such problems can occur due to the fault of the pressure regulator in the fuel system. Poor starting of the engine injectors cannot be excluded from the organizers.

What could happen to electrical equipment?

If there is something to burn in the working cylinders, then you need to look for what will make the mixture burn. This means that you need to pay attention to the car's ignition system. This could be an ignition distributor, a high-voltage coil and wires, spark plugs. It doesn’t happen that all devices fail at the same time, so we should talk about them separately.

We will assume that the distributor is installed correctly; in this case, a failure may occur through a breakdown of the cover or slider, or a failure of the Hall sensor. However, most often the cause is poor contact in the power connector of the ignition distributor. An ignition module or coils that do not produce high voltage to produce a spark at the spark plugs can create problems.

Injectors work in conjunction with ignition modules, of which there are usually two per engine. One ensures the operation of cylinders 1 and 4, and the second - cylinders 2 and 3. In these systems, the electronic control unit, which generates control pulses for all systems, including the ignition, may be problematic. This block can only be checked by replacing it. The same can be done with ignition modules.

Sometimes the fault may come from the high voltage coil. it does not generate voltage that can create a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture. You can check its operation if you unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and, together with the high-voltage wire, ensure its contact with the engine ground. At this time, you need to crank the starter and watch the spark plug. The absence of a spark confirms that the ignition coil is faulty.

It is impossible not to dwell on such elements of ignition systems as spark plugs. They are the ones who ignite the combustible mixture in the working cylinders of the engine. During their operation, the metal parts of their electrodes burn out, after which the gap increases, starting the motor becomes more difficult, or even becomes impossible. Check the condition of the spark plugs regularly, especially their gap. then problems can be avoided.

You can continue to review situations when the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start. It is simply impossible to take into account absolutely all cases, but to avoid such situations, carry out routine maintenance of the machine in a timely manner, use only high-quality operating fluids.

VAZ 2110 won't start, the injector turns the starter

Probably every motorist has encountered a situation in which your car does not start, and there is little pleasure in it, especially if it happens on the road.

To begin with, it is recommended to conduct a general diagnostic of the engine and try to identify the malfunction. In this situation, in order to determine the malfunction of the VAZ 2110 power plant, it is recommended to check all operating systems of the engine, proceeding from general to specific.

The starter turns but the engine does not catch

The fact that when you turn the key, the engine begins to rotate under the influence of the starter torque is not a bad sign. This indicates, first of all, that the malfunction lies in a malfunction of one of the systems, namely the fuel supply system, air supply system, or ignition system. (Cases of breakdown of the crank and gas distribution mechanisms assemblies are not taken into account, since these breakdowns are extremely rare).

Possible malfunctions of the fuel supply system of the VAZ 2110

One of the major malfunctions of the fuel supply system are:

failure of the fuel pump.

clogged fuel line

clogged distributed injection nozzles

To diagnose the performance of the fuel supply pump, it is necessary to remove the hose from the fuel rail and check the pressure in the system. If necessary, the pressure is measured with a special pressure gauge. If there is no pressure in the fuel line, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the fuel pump, as well as the correct operation of the electrical circuit.

Clogged fuel injector nozzles can be checked by removing the fuel rail. A working fuel injector should spray fuel into a vapor state. A faulty or clogged nozzle does not spray, gasoline may not flow at all, or may flow in a stream.

Failure of all injection nozzles to pass through may also indicate improper operation of the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit.

Typical malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 ignition system

If the fuel supply and distributed injection systems are fully operational, you should check the serviceability of the vehicle’s ignition system.

In this system, malfunctions in the operation of the following components are possible:

Spark plug faulty. As a rule, when 1-2 spark plugs come out, the car will start, but it will be difficult or the engine will start to seize.
Breakdown of high-voltage wires; if armored wires are not replaced in a timely manner, they may fail. Accordingly, voltage will not be supplied to the spark plugs.
Failure of the ignition module. The electric current converter may fail at the moment the spark is applied; in such a situation, it is necessary to check the voltage at the output.

Possible malfunctions in the timing belt

the timing belt slips through the pulley teeth by 1-2 positions. Because of this, the position of the valve timing changes and the engine may not start at all.
Slipping of the camshaft pulley or damage to the shaft.
Malfunction or incorrect operation of the crankshaft position sensor.

In a situation where it is not possible, from a technical point of view, to identify a malfunction using general diagnostics, it is necessary to carry out general computer diagnostics of the engine with connection to the ECU

Why is Datsun On Do better?

Good night all. I’ve been reading the forum for about three years now, but somehow I never bothered to register. By the way, thanks to everyone, I found really useful advice a couple of times. Trouble has come - now I’ve registered =(

So to the description of the problem. I have a ten, 8th grade 2003. I arrived today and parked the car for about an hour to wipe off the dust in the interior. Wipe. Start - but it won’t start. The engine is turning. I started researching the problem. Alarm system, immobilizer (activated) - they seem to work as usual. The fuel pump - I hear it pumping, and there is definitely power to it, since after searching for the previous problem, the LED remained soldered into its circuit. He burns. I checked - the spark plug sparks when I turn the starter. There seems to be pressure in the fuel rail (unscrew the cap, press on the nipple - a stream flows), which means the fuel pump should be working. I unscrewed the spark plugs - they were dry and did not smell of gasoline. It turns out that it is not served? What could it be? Are there any sensors there? Or maybe some kind of contact or fuse? The worst thing I suspect is an alarm system or an immobilizer.

In general - good help. Maybe someone can tell me something. Thank you.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Clarifications: There is a spark - I removed the cap from the spark plug, turned the starter and watched as a spark breaks through to the head of the engine. Ignition switch - I don’t know how to check this, but I think if the engine turns over, then the lock is working =) My belt broke like that, so I know what the symptoms are. Replaced 15,000 thousand ago. I think the belt should be fine. Markers if they are lost. Can you tell me how to check this? I unscrewed the spark plugs and they were dry. If you press the gas and turn the ignition, as far as I know, this is the mode for purging (drying) the spark plugs. I tried it. There is pressure in the fuel rail.

And the injectors are squealing.

How can I check this? I thought about this yesterday, but I don’t know how to look at it.

Those. It turns out that in the evening after work you will need to check the following things: - whether the marks on the belt match (how to check?) - whether the injectors are peeing (how to check?) - climb in the console, move the relays, you should probably also look at the fuses

What else should I check? Yes, here’s another question: at what stage are the immobilizer and alarm systems included in the circuit? Well, I mean, could it be any of them?

Here's something I picked up from the murzilka, I'll check it: - The control impulse from the crankshaft position sensor arrives at the wrong time due to delamination of the crankshaft damper (the gear has moved relative to the pulley)

Replace the damper (you can install a cast iron pulley) - The engine control unit, its circuits or the crankshaft position sensor (less often, the coolant temperature sensor) is faulty

Check whether 12 V voltage is supplied to the control unit, the crankshaft position sensor circuit, that the sensor itself is not damaged and the gap between it and the crankshaft damper ring gear (1±0.2 mm). Sensor resistance is 500–700 Ohms. If there is a break in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit, the cooling system fan runs continuously

Replace faulty unit, sensors, wires -

The idle speed controller or its electrical circuit is faulty

When starting the engine, lightly press the gas pedal, slightly opening the throttle. If the engine starts but stalls when the pedal is released, the regulator is faulty

Replace the faulty regulator - The injection system fuse or fusible link has blown

Check the fuse link - a piece of black wire, the non-switchable power fuse and the main relay fuse

Check the circuits and instruments of the injection system, eliminate the cause of the burnout, replace the fuse - The injectors or their circuits are faulty

Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open or short circuit). The control unit is diagnosed at a service station

Replace the faulty control unit, injectors, ensure contact in the electrical circuits - The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system

Check the fuel pump outlet pressure (at least 3.5 bar (3.5 kg/cm2), make sure the fuel inlet strainer is clean

Clean the fuel inlet mesh. Fuel pump that does not provide the required pressure in the system - replace -

Battery

The first thing you should look at is the battery. And it doesn’t matter whether we are talking about a hot injection engine or a cold one. It also doesn't matter at all how many valves it has. The batteries of all modifications of the VAZ model under consideration are of the same type.

To find out why the Lada does not want to start, open its hood and look at the battery indicator. If the latter is missing, measure the voltage with a tester - 11.5 volts will be normal. Lower readings indicate the need to charge. When this is not the reason, then look further. Be sure to check if the battery terminals are oxidized. If so, clean them with fine sandpaper.

Towing a gazelle

The third method is to tow a car with a dead battery. To do this, you will need a third-party car that will drag (tow) the gazelle by the cable until its engine starts. This method is similar to pushing a car, but it is more effective.

Important! Drivers of both vehicles must exercise caution when towing. Braking should be safe for the car in front, and at the same time, the vehicle attached to the cable should not be completely “turned off” when performing a stopping maneuver.

Timing belt broke

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?

The engine gas distribution mechanism is driven by the crankshaft gear. Initially, chains were used for this purpose, and timing belts, which began to be widely used about twenty years ago, aroused mistrust among car owners.

The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.

Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.

New timing belt VAZ 2110

Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.

The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.

In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.

Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN

In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.

The starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 and 2115 do not start? List of reasons and sequence of actions

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns Quite often, owners of domestic cars are interested in the question of why the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start. Such an unpleasant moment can occur at the most inopportune moment, at any time of the year, far from service centers or repair shops. It is advisable for each driver of these models to become familiar with the list of possible faults. This will allow you, in some cases, to independently find the problem that has arisen, and then fix it and continue operating the machine.

The starter turns, but VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 and 2115 do not start. This happens most often in the cold season, and if there is no proper care and maintenance of the car, it can happen at any time. In this article we will try to consider in detail all possible problems with starting the engine at any time of the year. Such problems can occur with both carburetor models and injection power units.

Why doesn't the engine start?

Difficulties with starting or its impossibility can arise for a variety of reasons. The culprits should be looked for in the following devices:

Fuel system malfunctions for all types of engines;
Problems in the electrical equipment of the machine.

Starting principle

In order to know why the engine does not start, you need to know exactly how it works. The basis for starting the engine is a spark, which depends on the ignition system and the fuel-air mixture, which is supplied in certain proportions. Therefore, if any of these components does not work as it should, startup becomes difficult or simply impossible.

Main reasons

Among all the reasons why starting an engine can be difficult, we can highlight the main ones that stand out for poor starting of a cold engine:

Low battery charge level - this reason most often occurs in the cold season, when the ambient temperature is significantly below 0 degrees Celsius. Because in such conditions, a dead car battery can lose its charge very quickly. This problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery with a new one, or periodically servicing the old one to recharge it.

The battery on the editorial car was running low. True, it was an 8-valve VAZ-2112

But the meaning is the same.

When further inspecting the ignition system, pay attention to the condition of the individual coils and spark plugs. Check them for cracks and visible signs of wear.

Also pay special attention to the condition of the working surface of the candles, as their condition can tell a lot.

The order of dismantling does not matter.

Check the pressure in the fuel rail; how to do this correctly is written in great detail here.

Actually, the ramp is under pressure

A clogged throttle valve, although not the main one, can also be the cause of difficult engine starting. It needs to be cleaned.

Throttle valve before and after cleaning

Air filter and mass air flow sensor - the air filter must be clean so that all the necessary air mass passes into the cylinders and mixes with the required amount of fuel. What to do if traces of oil are found on the filter? The answer is here.

We connect the probes of the measuring device: red to yellow, and black to green (to sensor ground).

Insufficient engine oil pressure

This reason typically appears on a cold engine, since it is much more difficult for thickened oil with insufficient pressure to reach the main components and assemblies of the engine. In this case, you may notice a low oil pressure warning light. However, as follows from practice, such problems do not occur often.

As you can see, problems with starting the engine when cold are not uncommon and there can be various reasons for this. They should be solved from least difficult to most difficult. Since even a minor problem in a small unit can prevent the entire engine from starting.

Failure of spark plugs

The first thing you should think about after checking the presence of power and the ignition switch is the integrity of the spark plugs. Because even if there is a spark, they may not work correctly. Checking them is quite simple:

the spark plug is unscrewed from its socket using a special key;
one of the candlesticks is put on it;
Next you need to “turn” the starter.

The spark between the central and side electrodes must be blue. If it is red or completely absent, the spark plug must be replaced. This part is a consumable item. According to the regulations, regardless of the recommendations of the manufacturer of the spark plugs themselves, they must be replaced every 10 thousand km.

Correct wire connection

When all the wires have been found, all that remains is to connect them correctly and start the car. To do this, you should perform the following steps:

Leave the ground and starter wires unconnected;
connect the remaining wires responsible for powering various car systems to the power cable;
connect the starter wire to the power supply and wait until the car starts;
As soon as the engine starts, remove the starter wire from the group of live wires;
You will receive at your disposal a running vehicle with working systems for transportation.

Remember that you need to connect the power wires securely enough. On the way, the contact may weaken and you will be left without a headlight, for example. After transporting the car, immediately begin repairing it and bringing it back to normal condition.

Checking the devices

When it was noticed that the VAZ-2112 does not start, you need to turn on the ignition and carefully look at the dashboard. It should display an alarm in the form of switched on lights:

• Low oil pressure.

• Signal for normal battery charging.

• “Check Engine” signal.

If the instrument panel does not react at all and does not light up when turned on, you should look for reasons why there is no power. To do this, you need to check the fastening of the terminals on the battery. Also pay attention to the fuses. When the dashboard is working, the repair of the VAZ-2112 should continue as follows. Turn your attention to the Check Engine lamp.

This warning lamp turns on when the engine is not running and informs that the ECU is in good condition and is receiving power. If the “Check Engine” indicator is not turned on, you should start checking all the ECU fuses. They are located to the right of the driver, near the front passenger seat (under the glove compartment).

The ECU (electronic control unit) is located in this place, and along with them the so-called strip, where three relays and a safety unit are located. The first relay controls the ECU. Device number 2—starting the fan. And the third numbered relay works in conjunction with the fuel pump. When the key is turned in the ignition, devices numbered one and three should click - this is the supply of electrical power to the fuel pump and control unit. There is no need to continue repairing the VAZ-2112 until the Check Engine light is in good condition.

If you have run out of repair ideas, try connecting a working ECU and checking it that way. This will determine whether it is a problem or not. If the Check Engine warning light still does not work, the ECU is most likely faulty. Without it, you won't be able to start the car. Speaking about the price of the ECU, it is worth noting that this is not a cheap thing. It costs about 100 dollars. Some spare parts for the VAZ-2112 are quite expensive. The control unit is one of them. Compared to the fact that the price for the VAZ-2112 car itself is from 150 thousand rubles, hardly anyone will buy a spare unit.

Occurrence of a problem

Engine problems in the VAZ-2110 arise for various reasons. The result of a malfunction of one of the nodes associated with the engine will be unstable operation of the entire node

Not everyone can independently identify the reason why the car stalled, so it’s worth paying attention to some little things. One of the main problems with cars with high mileage is contamination of the system with fuel combustion products, so a simple lack of cleaning can eventually cause the engine to stall

If the pipes are clogged, fuel enters the combustion chamber in small quantities; it is not enough for normal engine operation. The solution to this problem is simple - check all the fuel channels, clean them, replace the fuel nozzles. For carburetor types of VAZ, this will not only solve the problem, but also improve engine performance.

The second reason why the engine may stall is low-quality gasoline. An incorrectly selected brand of gasoline can have a very detrimental effect on many vehicle systems, including the engine. You need to replace the fuel, this will help solve the problem.

These solutions to the problem are simple and require minimal skill and expense from the driver.

Possible starter malfunctions: causes and symptoms

So, first, let's look at the faults that cause the starter to not turn on a VAZ 2112.

If the engine does not start, it does not mean that the problem lies in this particular device, so first you need to make sure that the problem does not lie in a discharged battery:

If, when trying to start the VAZ 2111 starter with the key, the crankshaft turns once or frequent clicks of the device are heard, this is indicative of a low battery. Also, the reason may be poor contact of the terminals with the battery or disconnection or poor contact of the mechanism ground.
If, when starting the engine with the key, you heard only one click, but the starter does not turn, and therefore the engine does not start, most likely the problem lies in burnt power contacts. In particular, we are talking about the retractor relay mechanism. Due to burning, these contacts will not be able to conduct voltage through them. It also happens that when starting the engine with the key on a VAZ 2112, the starter does not turn, but the contacts are intact; if this is the case, then the reason should be sought in the non-working electric motor of the mechanism or its drive.
The appearance of uncharacteristic noise during operation of the device may be due to wear of the bushings of the bearing devices. In addition, the reason may lie in the wear of the journals on the armature shaft.
It is necessary to check the quality of fastening of the device. It is quite possible that problems in its performance are due to loosening of the screws. It must be taken into account that vibrations can negatively affect the functionality of the mechanism.
The reason may also be damage to the drive teeth (the author of the video is the Lexin channel).

Why doesn't the engine start yet?

Another common cause is a clogged fuel filter. This usually happens due to the use of fuel that is not of very high quality. However, most often the owners themselves are to blame for this, as they do not consider it necessary to regularly replace them.

It will be useful: Do-it-yourself replacement of the Chevrolet Niva thermostat: diagram, video

Poor throughput of this element provokes a decrease in pressure, which, in turn, prevents fuel from being properly sprayed through the injectors. A characteristic symptom of such a breakdown is the “sneezing” of the power plant.

In addition to the fuel filter, experts also advise changing the air filter.

Options for developing situations

• Spark is present on the spark plugs of all cylinders. This is already a good sign. Let's proceed to the next point.

• There is a spark on the first and fourth cylinders, but no spark on the others. Conclusion: ignition coil 2112 does not work.

• There is a spark on the second and third cylinders, but no spark on the others. The conclusion is the same as in the previous paragraph. The ignition module should also be replaced. When after replacing this element the problem does not go away, the culprit is a malfunction of the output keys to the ignition module from the electronic control unit. Repairing the unit will solve this problem.

• When there are no sparks at all, the most likely reason may be a breakdown of the crankshaft position sensor, from which the commands for its formation come.

Will it be possible to get new keys from the dealer?

Usually, replacing cylinders and making a new key directly from an authorized dealer is not a cheap pleasure. In addition, the waiting time is usually unacceptably long, since your order will probably be sent to the factory.

However, in some cases you will definitely have to contact the dealer. This is done when:

The warranty period has not yet expired and you do not want to lose it;
it is not possible to find the required lock cores or keys on the open market;
you need to make a duplicate (the code of the original product is saved on your passport);
The manufacturer can make a new unlocking device based only on the vehicle's VIN number.

Checking the operation of the fuel pump

When turning the key in the ignition mechanism, a distinct sound should be heard in the rear seat area. This hum is created by a running pump that pumps fuel. When there is no sound, you need to check the relay that controls the fuel pump and the corresponding fuses. If the problem is not with them and they work flawlessly, you should measure the voltage that passes through the pump terminals.

If there is no voltage, look for the problem in the related wiring.

Temperature sensor

When they, or even just one of them, are faulty, the vehicle's on-board computer is unable to properly test the engine and therefore cannot deliver the required amount of fuel to the cylinders. In this situation, the correct and least expensive option would be to replace the control device that has become unusable. Of course, there is a theoretical possibility of testing it for suitability, but in reality it is difficult to do this at home, since special equipment is required. Calling a car service for this will require quite a lot of money and time.

VAZ 2112 16 valve injector will not start

The starter device is considered one of the main mechanisms of the ignition system in any car, and domestically produced cars are no exception. If this unit breaks down, the driver simply will not be able to start the engine, and accordingly, full operation of the car will be impossible. For what reasons does the starter not turn in a VAZ 2112 and how to change this device if necessary - we will talk about this below.

Possible starter malfunctions: causes and symptoms

So, first, let's look at the faults that cause the starter to not turn on a VAZ 2112.

If the engine does not start, it does not mean that the problem lies in this particular device, so first you need to make sure that the problem does not lie in a discharged battery:

If, when trying to start the VAZ 2111 starter with the key, the crankshaft turns once or frequent clicks of the device are heard, this is indicative of a low battery. Also, the reason may be poor contact of the terminals with the battery or disconnection or poor contact of the mechanism ground.
If, when starting the engine with the key, you heard only one click, but the starter does not turn, and therefore the engine does not start, most likely the problem lies in burnt power contacts. In particular, we are talking about the retractor relay mechanism. Due to burning, these contacts will not be able to conduct voltage through them. It also happens that when starting the engine with the key on a VAZ 2112, the starter does not turn, but the contacts are intact; if this is the case, then the reason should be sought in the non-working electric motor of the mechanism or its drive.
The appearance of uncharacteristic noise during operation of the device may be due to wear of the bushings of the bearing devices. In addition, the reason may lie in the wear of the journals on the armature shaft.
It is necessary to check the quality of fastening of the device. It is quite possible that problems in its performance are due to loosening of the screws. It must be taken into account that vibrations can negatively affect the functionality of the mechanism.
The reason may also be damage to the drive teeth (the author of the video is the Lexin channel).

Final diagnostics of the starter before replacement

If the starter on a VAZ 2112 does not allow you to start the engine, before starting repairs, you should carry out a full diagnosis of the device. First, you will need to open the hood and dismantle the air filter element; to do this, unscrew the bolt on the body and use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the hose.

Which fuse is responsible for the emergency lights?

The VAZ 2112 starter itself is located directly under the air filter housing, the diagnostic procedure is carried out as follows:

First you need to check how well the wires connected to the mechanism are connected. There is a possibility that the problem lies in the electrical circuit.
If the wiring is intact, then turn on the optics. When the battery is discharged, the light from the flashlights will be quite weak.
Remove the wires from the ignition switch connectors, and then connect them to each other (wires 30 and 50 in accordance with the car diagram). When the contacts are closed for a short time, the mechanism will begin to rotate; if this is the case, then the reason lies in the ignition switch.
When the lock is working, an additional wire is connected to the connector and relay, as well as to the positive terminal of the battery. If the starter unit works, this may indicate a problem in the circuit from the battery to the relay.
If these actions did not help identify the malfunction, then you will have to dismantle the unit and check it in more detail (the author of the video is Avtoelektika HF).

DIY mechanism repair and replacement

If the power unit does not start, it is necessary to repair the VAZ starter.

This procedure looks like this:

First of all, you should disconnect the battery, and then disconnect the wires connected to the traction relay.
Using a 13mm wrench, you will need to unscrew the nut that secures the positive contact of the cable connected from the battery to the starter assembly. The wire itself can then be dismantled.
Next, you will need to unscrew the nuts that secure the mechanism to the clutch housing. To unscrew the nuts you will need a 15mm wrench.
After completing these steps, the starter assembly can be removed. If you plan to replace it with a new one, then the replacement can be done at this stage. When replacing, you need to take into account the location of the wires connected to the starter; under no circumstances should they be mixed up. Therefore, before disconnecting the wires, it is advisable to mark them. If you do not want to change the mechanism, but plan to repair it, then you can start disassembling it.
To disassemble, you will need a 10mm wrench; you can use it to unscrew the nut located on the relay and remove the wire connected to the starter.
The relay screws that secure it to the starter assembly must be unscrewed using a size 8 wrench. Having done this, you can dismantle the relay.
After removing the relay, you can see the gasket, which is located between the front cover of the mechanism and the relay itself. It should also be removed for disassembly, but when dismantling it is worth paying attention to its condition. If you see that the sealing element is worn out and its quality is quite low, then it is better to replace this component.
When the seal is dismantled, it will be necessary to remove the spring, as well as the anchor.
The next step is to remove the parking stud nuts.
After completing these steps, you can dismantle the mechanism from the studs with the anchor itself. After this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the internal parts and components of the device. For proper repairs, you should diagnose the contacts, and also completely disassemble the brush assembly and check its condition. In general, the procedure for repairing a mechanism is quite complicated, so not every car enthusiast chooses this method - sometimes it is easier to simply replace the unit with a new one. In particular, this will be necessary if the repair process did not produce any results.

Also, in addition to all of the above, it would not be amiss to check the functionality of the car alarm, since it is often to blame for such symptoms. If the alarm system malfunctions, it can block the engine starting system at its level.

Fuel system

The fuel pump strainer could be clogged and the fuel pump will not be able to produce the required pressure!

When operating the fuel system, we pay attention to the general condition and the presence of pressure in it. First of all, we check the pressure in the injector ramp; this is very simple to do: just slightly open the special black plug at the end of the ramp, and if there is pressure, you will immediately know about it.

Installation of triangular levers on Priora

Diagnostics can be carried out with a screwdriver or something similar.

Ignition system

The ignition system on the VAZ-2112 includes: battery, ignition switch, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, ignition coils, crankshaft position sensor. But more about everything.

We check the battery for sufficient power, integrity and clean contacts. Moving on to the ignition switch, we inspect it for visible damage, frayed and melted wires.
It happens that the contact group in the ignition switch fails (roughly speaking, it simply burns out), which does not allow the wires to close properly and start the engine.

For diagnostics, the lock must be disassembled or replaced with a new one.
The coils were removed for diagnostics, some of them are for replacement, punctures are visible
To dismantle it, just disconnect the power supply and remove it from the place of fixation.

We quickly start the VAZ-2110

To start the engine directly, proceed as follows:

sit in the driver's seat;
To the left of the steering wheel there is a button that turns on the side lights;
pull it out with your hands along with the train;
disconnect the block;
insert the button so that its 2nd, 3rd and 4th contacts fit into the first three grooves of the bottom row of the terminal (the last one remains free);
the noise of the fuel pump (it is located under the rear passenger seats) and the flashing display of the panel will indicate that the ignition has worked;
open the hood;
find the starter;
short-circuit the contacts (with a knife, screwdriver or something else) located on its retractor relay;
the car starts.

Cooling system

The engine cooling system is liquid, closed type with forced circulation of coolant and an expansion tank.

The engine cooling system uses special fluids based on a mixture of water and ethylene glycol. They have a low freezing point and a high boiling point. In addition, thanks to a complex of added additives, the coolant prevents corrosion of the channel walls, does not foam, and extends the service life of the coolant pump seal.

The volume of liquid in the engine cooling system is 7.8 liters.

Fluid circulation in the system is ensured by a centrifugal pump installed in the cylinder block. The pump is driven by a timing belt.

The liquid in the cooling system, depending on the engine temperature, can circulate in both a small and large circle. The thermostat controls the direction of fluid flow in the engine cooling system. It contains two valves - the main and additional (bypass). The main valve controls the circulation of liquid in a large circle, and the bypass valve controls the circulation in a small circle. The valves are interconnected - when one opens, the second closes and vice versa.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat bypass valve is open and fluid circulates in a small circle through the cylinder block, cylinder head, bypass valve and coolant pump, as well as through the throttle body and heater core. The heater radiator is built into the engine cooling system and is designed to heat the passenger compartment by circulating hot coolant through it.

Cooling system: 1 — heater radiator; 2 — coolant drain hose from the heater radiator; 3 — coolant supply hose to the heater radiator; 4 — coolant pump supply pipe hose; 5 — expansion tank hose; 6 — steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 7 - expansion tank; 8 — liquid level sensor in the expansion tank; 9 — thermostat; 10 — hose for draining fluid from the engine radiator; 11 — hose for supplying fluid to the throttle assembly; 12 — steam exhaust hose of the engine radiator; 13 — hose for supplying fluid to the engine radiator; 14 — engine radiator; 15 — radiator drain plug; 16 — electric engine radiator fan; 17 — coolant pump; 18 — supply pipe of the coolant pump; 19 — coolant drain hose from the throttle body

At a temperature of 85+2 °C, the main thermostat valve begins to open, and the bypass valve begins to close, and for some time the liquid circulates in a small and large circle at the same time. At a temperature of 102 °C, the main thermostat valve is fully open, the bypass valve is closed, and the main flow of liquid passes through the engine radiator, where it is cooled by the oncoming air flow. At the same time, the liquid continues to circulate through the throttle assembly and the heater radiator. When the air flow intensity is insufficient, an electric fan is turned on to cool the radiator. It is installed behind the engine radiator and turns on automatically based on a signal from the electronic engine control unit.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the liquid, an expansion tank is installed in the cooling system. The tank plug contains inlet and outlet valves, which allows you to maintain optimal pressure in the system when the liquid is heated, and also compensate for the vacuum when it cools.

Start GAZ 3110 without a key (part 1) - logbook of GAZ 31 2.0 turbo 1998 on DRIVE2

Good night everyone. I visited my drunken head to conduct an experiment. How can you start a GAZ 3110 without a key? Imagine that you find yourself in a naked movie. You need to save the lives of yourself and your family. You are wandering among the snow and severe frost. The Volga is ready to save you))), but you don’t have the keys. How to start it)))? You don't have the option of using the starter and battery, because... There are no keys. You need to start the device through the ignition switch. When writing the article, it was not possible to find out the readiness of the battery. I will point out one thing - advice on shorting the battery - starter is not relevant, because you need a key to supply the ignition (for those who are especially remote, it has been verified that the method does not work without a key). I will attach a PHOTO later. I am doing this for the first time and at my own peril and risk, because I have two GAZ 3110. The ignition switch is held on by one bolt. You twist it. Disconnect everything. And here a problem arises for a beginner...)))) P.S.: There is a lot of water and fire extinguishers. Without reading the Internet, but after watching enough American films. I take the cable and try to close it without disconnecting it from the connector. From a conversation among the people - to combine blue and red. There are a lot of wires in the Volga. In short, the result is that so far my attempts to start and save myself have not been successful... The experiment continues...

As I said above, I don’t know what needs to be done normally, the photo is in Part 2.

P.S.: I’m such a person, well, I don’t believe that it’s impossible not to do this...)))

Issue price: 0 ₽ Mileage: 130,000 km

Spark test

When the Check Engine light is on, the fuel pump is good, and the starter is working, the next thing to check is spark. To check it, you need to unscrew the spark plug, press it to ground and start the starter.

The check takes place one by one, on all cylinders. Such problems occur on many injection VAZ-2112 cars. The price of a new starter, by the way, is 2-3 thousand rubles.

Sources

https://drajver.ru/tehobsluzhivanie/vaz-2112-ne-zavoditsya-prichiny.html
https://autogearspb.ru/lada/vaz-2112-16-klapanov-ne-zavoditsya-prichiny.html
https://gil-service.ru/ts/vaz-2112-ne-zavoditsya.html
https://FokSevmash.ru/elektronika/ne-zavoditsya-vaz-2112-16-klapanov.html
https://zapchasti.expert/reshenie-problem/ne-zavoditsya/ne-zavoditsya-vaz-2112.html
https://delis-avto.ru/avto-ts/vaz-2112-16-ne-zavoditsya.html
https://FB.ru/article/288870/vaz—ne-zavoditsya-prichinyi-i-ih-ustranenie
https://www.vazzz.ru/pochemu-ne-zavoditsya-mashina-vaz-2112-inzhektor-16-klapanov/
https://peretyajka-salona.ru/prochee/pochemu-ne-zavoditsya-vaz-2112-inzhektor-16-klapanov-prichiny-i-foto.html

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Second way

You need to lean down and look under the steering wheel. Ready! Now you need to remove the wire from the ignition switch pin and bring them all together. This ensures that both the headlights and the starter will work, but most importantly, the ignition will work. After this, you need to find the wire from the starter; you remove it from the total mass. We wrap the remaining wires together, and you have ensured that the ignition works. By lightly touching the starting wire to this entire group of wires, the engine starts.

How to start a car without a key

Disarm your car. This feature usually works without problems. If your car has a remote start feature, start it with the key fob. Carefully place a spatula between the top of the driver's door and the center pillar. Place the second spatula slightly lower. Carefully wedge the door with spatulas so that a small gap is formed. Wooden spatulas will not damage the paintwork of the body.

Fold the cardboard in half and place it in the resulting gap.

Insert a long (preferably steel) wire between the sides of the cardboard.

Now, by operating the wire, you can reach the beet lift button (this will help if you have previously started the car remotely) or the central locking button (usually it does not fail, unlike the key fob).

The steps are simple, but require some training. Try not to damage the car in the process.

"Light up" the car

The second option is to have someone “light” the car by transferring current from one battery to another. In this case, you will need to connect the “lighting” wires using terminals (“crocodile clips”) directly to the “active” and dead car battery. In general, if the question arises about how to properly charge a battery when its charge is low, then this method may come in handy. But when there are no other cars nearby or no one wants to help, it will be problematic to use this emergency start option.

Source