VAZ 2112 does not hold idle speed, the injector 16 valves stalls

Car : VAZ-2112. Asks : Roman Sitnikov. The essence of the issue : The car stalls while driving.

Hello! I have this problem. When I'm driving, the car suddenly stalls, and after a while it can be started again and continue on my way. At the same time, it works great when cold, no comments. But in a traffic jam, when I accelerate and brake, such situations occur, and sometimes the “check” light comes on. Tell me, please, what could be the reason?

Lada 2112 ᵀᴴᴱ ᴼᴿᴵᴳᴵᴺᴬᴸ › Logbook › Why does the VAZ 2112 start and stall

A malfunction in which a VAZ-2112 passenger car stalls a couple of seconds after starting the engine gives the driver a lot of negative emotions. But in order to find the cause of this malfunction yourself, you need to know why this can happen. If you do not have this knowledge, then there is only one way out, go to good specialists who can diagnose the engine.

The first cause of this malfunction may be the idle air regulator (IAC), which is located on the throttle assembly. You can make sure that it is he who is causing the malfunction as follows. Open the hood of your VAZ-2112, look for the air filter, between it and the intake pipe hose there is a mass air flow sensor (MAF).

You remove the terminal from it and try to start the engine of your car. If the engine starts and, with the gas pedal released, keeps the crankshaft speed in the region of one and a half thousand, this will mean that the idle speed control is in working order. Since it is he who maintains such speed when the terminal is removed from the mass air flow sensor. A similar check can be carried out when removing the terminal from the throttle position sensor (TPS). It is located on the side of the throttle body pipe.

If the engine, during these two checks, also starts, and then immediately stalls, then the idle air control valve or the wires going to it may be to blame. But in order to pass a final verdict on it, you will need to check the condition of the throttle assembly, since it has a tendency to become dirty, which prevents the rod from moving. In this case, even a working idle speed controller will not be able to perform its intended function of regulating the engine crankshaft speed.

If it turns out that the idle air regulator is to blame for this malfunction, and you purchased a new IAC, then before installing it instead of the faulty regulator, you will need to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal. Time the removal of this terminal and begin installing the new IAC. If you did this work quickly, then put the negative terminal back in place no earlier than 20 minutes from the moment it was removed. Next, turn on the ignition and keep it on for about twenty seconds. Then turn off the ignition and only after these steps do you try to start the engine of your car. This is done in order to reset the electronic control unit (ECU), otherwise it will generate this error again.

The situation when the engine stalls at idle occurs quite often. This phenomenon can occur both on cars with high mileage and on new cars. It is worth noting that the process of starting a cold engine with a starter can be either initially difficult or proceed absolutely normally.

In other words, the engine may run fine or hot, but then starts to stall at idle. Also in a number of cases, it appears that when you press the gas pedal and increase the speed, the engine begins to operate stably. There are several main reasons why the engine “does not hold” idle speed, troits and shakes. Next, we will look at why the car stalls at idle or runs very unevenly after starting “cold”, during transition modes “hot”, etc.

VAZ 21124, 1.6, 16 cl. stalls immediately when cold. 2008

So, let's go.
It started stalling two weeks ago in the morning after being left idle (when it was cold). I sat down, started to start it, it started up, it started to stall for about 5 seconds and stalled, I started it a second time, the revs were floating, it didn’t stall, the revs leveled off. The next morning, the second time it didn’t start, it also stalled. The third time it helped, only applying the gas for 10-15 seconds, the stalling stopped, but the revs fluctuated. When the revolutions drop to 1000 revolutions, it starts to triple (as if one cylinder stops working, vibration in the body), it drops lower, everything is fine (800-850), when hot it always starts perfectly, without glitches or shaking. At third speed you can feel the car jerking, but only at third. I went to the service center and measured the compression - normal. Fuel pump pressure is normal. I changed the spark plugs - it didn’t help, I began to blame the ignition coils, I checked with the engine running, cordoning off each one, there is a reaction, each cylinder starts firing - normal. I read the forums, watched the video, did the following: I cleaned the throttle valve with a carburetor can, also Pxx, and replaced the hose from the adsorber to the throttle, the next morning nothing had changed, I read about the mass air flow sensor, removed the plug, started it - the same problem, not the mass air flow sensor . I washed the injector with some liquid at the service center. On the trail. the day I changed the coolant sensor (at the service center they said that it was definitely him, yeah..). Today I changed the diaper and the fuel filter, I think the same effect will happen tomorrow morning, I don’t know where to dig anymore, there are few options left, brains, injectors (more precisely, seals, although I don’t know, everything works fine when hot), still change Mass air flow sensor, IAC, coils, battery, oil, firmware, injectors, but I think none of this will help me again. Help, anyone who has encountered this kind of crap, VAZ 21124, 1.6, 16th class, 2008. I’ve already broken my head, but in the service centers they don’t know anything, just guesses, the diagnostics also don’t show anything, they turn on the fools, they make a smart one view only. Let me know if this helped anyone, I’m just tired of throwing money down the drain. VAZ 2109 Lada Granta Sedan

Get rid of the MAF. Set DBP. If the “brains” are ITELMA, everything is flashed, I have already redone a lot, well, not a lot, but a few cars, and people contact me.

I also think about the DMRV, at least you can check with a multimeter whether it is “live” or not without service, have the valves been adjusted long ago? maybe they are the problem

VAZ 2109 Lada Granta Sedan

16th grade, there are hydraulic pushers, they can fool, they are poorly diagnosed.

does it give an error? if you add gas to 2000-3000rpm when it’s cold. how does the motor work?

Slow, August 24, 2022, 07:14, #2

Most likely DMRV. Get rid of the MAF. Set DBP. If ITELMA's brains, everything is flashed, I've already redone a lot, well, not a lot, but a few cars, and people contact me.

rinat-q3, August 24, 2022, 08:36, #3

I also think about the DMRV, at least you can check with a multimeter whether it is alive or not without service, have the valves been adjusted long ago? maybe they are the problem

I measured the mass air flow sensor today, it shows that it is alive, and very much so.

Slow, August 24, 2022, 08:39, #4

16th grade, there are hydraulic pushers, they can fool, they are poorly diagnosed.

as an option, I agree, they knock while I fill up with Lukoil so that they don’t knock, now they ring when I’m driving under tension, I plan to follow. month to change along with the gasket.

Flying, August 24, 2022, 09:32, #5

Does it give an error? If you add gas to 2000-3000 rpm when it’s cold. how does the motor work?

works great, everything is good in this regard.

In general, I reviewed the videos on how to check the IAC, TPS sensors, started with the TPS, the multimeter showed nothing, “0.00”. I decided to pull out the connector and start it (on hot), as a result, the speed does not drop, I put it back, I press the pedal and release, it drops for half a second or a second to 700 and levels out to 800-850, I went to the store, I decided not to buy at first check, twisted it, started it, the same thing, they don’t sag, they fall evenly, not quickly, 250 rubles, it doesn’t look original, why am I writing this, I started driving, the engine works perfectly, but when the pedal reaches the middle, it disappears, then traction appears, I release the pedal, and I press it again - it goes, and so on until the middle, then it repeats, I read somewhere that you need to reset the negative temperature for 5 minutes after replacement, I hope this is the case, otherwise you will have to look for another sensor, if that's the case in him. This is all about the fact that the revs are dropping, tomorrow morning I’ll start it, I think it will start, that was the problem, I’ll write back when I get home.

Gasoline engine does not idle

Let's start with the fact that this malfunction indicates two possible causes: failure of individual mechanisms, components or sensors, as well as severe contamination of certain elements. In both the first and second cases, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis. The engine on injection and carburetor cars can most often stall at idle in the following cases:

• the idle air regulator (IAC) has failed;
• the throttle valve is dirty or malfunctioning;
• the carburetor channels are clogged or the fuel jet XX is dirty;
• the performance of injection nozzles is reduced or impaired;
• the mesh of the electric/mechanical fuel pump is clogged, malfunctions of this unit have occurred;
• there was a decrease in the throughput of the fuel filter;
• the air filter is dirty, air leaks at the inlet;
• failure of the mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor, etc.;
• clogging of the engine crankcase ventilation system;

We also recommend reading the article on how to replace the mesh filter on the fuel pump yourself.
From this article you will learn about methods for removing the fuel pump to replace the mesh, and also find useful tips for successfully implementing this process. If the car immediately stalls or the speed fluctuates noticeably after the starter is turned off, then you should pay attention to the throttle assembly. It is possible that the valve may become clogged or the mechanism may become jammed. This malfunction, especially severe contamination, occurs as a result of prolonged driving on low-quality fuel, as well as untimely replacement of the air filter.

In this case, the throttle valve needs to be cleaned. To clean the throttle, use a regular “carbicleaner” (a product for cleaning carburetors), and you also need to blow out the valve using compressed air from the compressor. If these steps do not help, then you will need to evaluate the condition of the oil trap. This element is an integral part of the engine crankcase ventilation system. A dirty oil trap causes crankcase gases to “choke” the engine, idle speed floats and the internal combustion engine stalls.

Possible reasons

reasons why the VAZ-2110 engine, which has an injector and 8 valves, first starts and then stalls, because the car is a very complex mechanism and its performance depends on the serviceability of all elements.

VAZ 2114 injector 8 starts and stalls.

For example, this leads to this at the beginning:

• several years of operation;
• inadequate prevention.

Quite often during the operation of a car, a problem occurs when the VAZ 2110 starts and stalls almost instantly, and sometimes the engine stops working even at low speeds. This problem, of course, is faced not only by owners of domestic cars, but also of foreign cars. Any model is susceptible to this.

Many drivers do not know how to act in such a situation and begin to panic, feeling helpless. There is no need to senselessly pull on wires and pipes, much less kick the wheel. Such actions will definitely not help in determining the cause of the malfunction and eliminating it.

Another situation arises when the majority of car owners calm down if the car still starts after some time, and considers: the car started - that means everything is in order! But the problem remains, it has not been solved, and a similar situation is repeated. And again panic begins, to which is added indignation due to the fact that the malfunction was not eliminated at the very first occurrence of a similar picture.

The reasons that a car stalls at idle immediately after starting are different, and they most often depend on the model or generation of different brands of cars. This could be a clogged valve in the gas distribution system, or burnt relay contacts in the fuel pump.

Some car enthusiasts are able to carry out simple work to identify the problem and fix it later. For those who do not belong to this category, it is recommended to go to a car service center or call a tow truck if you still cannot start.

So what happens to the car?

Often everything happens according to a standard scenario: you get behind the wheel, turn the ignition key, and the engine starts working as usual. However, as soon as you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine speed immediately begins to drop. It should be noted that in this situation, the idle speed sensor still produces the nominal number of turns. Under all these circumstances, the idle speed jumps, creating distorted operation of the car as a whole. Due to detonation of the propulsion system, which occurs against the background of idle speed surges, the most unpleasant, but quite natural thing happens - the engine stops working and the car stops.

Clogged throttle valve

Usually the situation returns to normal after another attempt to start the engine and set the car in motion - everything falls into place, and you can safely follow the intended path. However, such an incident can be considered the first bell, since in the future such an emergency situation will again take you by surprise. Therefore, at the first manifestations of such a problem, you should immediately address them. Before you begin to troubleshoot problems, it is worth finding out the true cause of their occurrence.

Car exhaust system problem

The engine may also stall if the tubes responsible for removing gases are malfunctioning. At full speed, the car will quickly begin to “choke”, and pressing the gas pedal completely stops the engine. Malfunctions in the operation of the exhaust pipe system in 90% of cases are caused by contamination and clogging of the muffler. However, the catalyst may also fail.

In the first case, carefully clean the muffler and remove foreign objects from there. If there are problems with the catalyst, conduct a complete diagnosis of the exhaust system and replace this element.

This problem is associated with malfunctions in the design of the vacuum booster. The symptoms are as follows: as soon as you try to brake sharply at full speed, you will see how quickly the engine stalls. This defect can be eliminated by repairing the amplifier adjuster or replacing the entire mechanism completely.

If the engine does not idle

Both experienced service station workers, professional drivers with many years of experience, and even amateurs identify a group of circumstances due to which the engine does not maintain idle speed. This includes:

• malfunction of the idle speed sensor;
• throttle valve clogged;
• malfunction of the throttle position sensor;
• contamination of the injector or carburetor

The reasons for the breakdown can be completely different, so when eliminating them you will have to use all sorts of actions and techniques. If you have considerable driving experience behind you, and you know the operating features of the car like the back of your hand, regardless of the model, then troubleshooting this kind of problem will not cause you any problems. And all because such breakdowns are not complex or serious. It follows that you can get your car working without outside help. Well, if your level of awareness or lack of free time does not give you the opportunity to eliminate all the defects yourself, it is better to seek help from knowledgeable people who can save you from unpleasant moments in the shortest possible time.

What could have broken?

If the machine does not work, it means the motor is broken. This can often be heard from an inexperienced driver. But in a car, in addition to the engine, there are many different elements, on the serviceability of which the operation of the power unit depends. If the car is not completely “dead” and when the starter rotates it shows signs of life, “sneezes” or “shoots” into the exhaust pipe, the fault will be more difficult to find.

The malfunction that led to the engine shutdown is hidden in one of the three systems of the VAZ 2112:

• electrical equipment and power supply;
• fuel supply system;
• gas distribution mechanism and piston group.

You must understand that if the level of coolant or oil in the crankcase is low, the engine will not stall; it may fail due to overheating or lack of lubrication. Therefore, it is important to recall the circumstances preceding engine failure. It’s one thing when the power unit just stopped moving, another thing if before that you heard extraneous knocks or shots in the exhaust. In the first case, the electrical part is probably to blame.

A sign of the second situation is often a broken timing belt, which is easy to detect by removing its upper plastic casing. The belt can be changed on the way if you have a spare one, otherwise you will have to look for a part or a towing company. If the starter cannot crank the engine when trying to start, there may be two reasons:

• there was a breakdown in the generator circuit, and the voltage source was the battery, which as a result was discharged;
• the crankshaft jammed due to lack of lubrication.

In both situations, you need to find a way to deliver the car for repairs; you won’t be able to do anything on the road.

How to solve a problem?

To figure out why the engine stalls, it is recommended to contact a specialist. In this case, you can save your nerves and save the time that is always missing, without racking your brains over possible ways to solve this problem. A high-quality service station, with the appropriate equipment and professional workers, will be able to solve any problem and get your machine working in the shortest possible time. Here's what the auto center can do:

• complete replacement of equipment that has become unusable;
• regeneration of failed devices;
• carrying out preventive procedures and bringing equipment into proper condition

The most optimal solution to this problem would be to completely replace non-working equipment. You can install a new idle speed sensor, throttle valve, throttle position sensor, injector or carburetor. In principle, most developed countries resort to this method today. With all this, it can be quite difficult to complete such a procedure in Russia due to the lack of spare parts necessary for your car, or if they are available, they are of very dubious quality.

The video shows a solution to the engine problem at idle speed:

Whatever one may say, you will still have to restore worn parts on a car if it is not operating satisfactorily at idle. And most often, given financial capabilities, the owner of the car will take the risk of getting down to business with his own hands, so as not to spend a certain amount of money on specialists for the work done. Therefore, it is worthwhile to think about possible losses in the future. Remember: timely maintenance, cleaning of parts and strict adherence to the car’s operating instructions will help you avoid unpleasant situations. The type of engine - diesel or gasoline - does not play a special role in this case.

Functionality check

We have already talked about where the sensor is located. The first thing you need to do is find it and remove the block with wires. On a VAZ 2110, you must first unscrew the fastening elements of the throttle assembly, then move the entire assembly by about 10 mm.

Check with a voltmeter that the voltage is appropriate to the sensor. To do this, you must first connect the negative terminal of the battery to ground and connect a voltmeter to terminals A and D (they are usually marked), then:

• If the voltmeter shows less than 12V, this most likely indicates that the battery is not charged;
• If nothing is shown, faults should be looked for in the electronic control unit or in the circuit;
• If the reading is 12V or more, you need to check the regulator directly, or more precisely, its resistance;
• We connect a tester to the four terminals, which should give a total resistance reading of 50 or 55 Ohms.

Testing in pairs should give an infinitely large resistance. If the idle speed sensor on a VAZ 2110 (injector) gives different readings, it means it needs replacement.

You can also test the regulator in another way: remove the sensor and connect the block. Pressing the needle with your finger, watch its extension. When the ignition is turned off, there should be a push of the needle.

If everything is normal, then usually the speed does not fluctuate and the sensor itself is in working condition. If there is no shock, you can try cleaning the mechanism.

This is done using a special cleaner called WD-40. They very carefully, using a cotton swab, clean everything that is possible in the sensor.

Particularly carefully - the rod, as well as the needle. But if this does not help, a replacement is needed.

VAZ 2110 stalls at idle

Possible reasons for the VAZ 2110 engine stopping at idle

Let's look at one of the common problems for the VAZ 2110 car. This is a Russian-made sedan, usually with a 1600 cc engine and a 5-speed gearbox.

It often happens that when stopping in neutral gear, the tachometer drops the revolutions to 500, and then the readings become standard - 800-900 rpm. After some time, the car begins to stall altogether.

The first thing car enthusiasts do in such a situation is to decide that the problem is that the injectors are dirty and cannot spray fuel as expected. This can happen due to many impurities in gasoline, the quality of which has recently left much to be desired. If the assumption is correct, then the control unit, receiving a signal from the injectors, increases the amount of fuel supplied, which can cause the engine to stop. If after cleaning the injectors the picture does not change, and the car continues to stall when braking at traffic lights and pedestrian crossings, another reason should be considered.

Another “troublemaker” can be the idle speed sensor. You should just replace it and see how the car behaves. If you don’t want to spend money on a new sensor without making sure that the old one is faulty, just ask the lucky owner of a working car for half a day. “Tens” remains a popular model and I think you can borrow this sensor from someone you know. If the experiment showed that the problem is not at all with the idle speed sensor, then you should contact computer diagnostics.

What to do if cars with automatic transmission stall?

If your car has an automatic transmission, the problem should be found in the power supply. If you abruptly switch from one gear to another or when switching them while braking, the settings may be distorted and the on-board computer will receive a signal to turn off the engine.

Also, models with an automatic transmission may lock up due to a malfunction of the transmission hydrodynamic transformers. This problem manifests itself mainly during acceleration and requires urgent intervention from car service specialists.

Checking the idle air control

One of the reasons that the car stalls at low speeds is a malfunction of the idle air control (IAC). It should be tested to either rule out this cause or troubleshoot. There are several ways to check the serviceability of the IAC on the VAZ-2110:

1. With the ignition off, connect the multimeter probes to the power supply. When they are connected, turn on the ignition and check the integrity of the winding and the power supply circuit in the following order: first, the probes are connected to pins 1 and 2. When the IAC is working properly, readings from 50 to 80 ohms appear on the multimeter sensor. When testing the 2nd and 3rd pins, as well as the 1st and 4th pins, there should be indicators indicating an infinite value.
2. Visual inspection method. It is necessary to remove the regulator, disassemble it and determine the degree of coking, the degree of wear of the spring and other elements of the regulator. It is quite easy to visually determine that the regulator is simply time to change.
3. It is still possible to carry out diagnostics using special testers, but purchasing such a tester will cost much more than replacing the part itself. It's up to you to decide whether it's worth purchasing such a device.

Malfunctions in the air mixture supply system

Here the problem is either a clogged air filter or a failure of the regulator responsible for idling the car.
At the same time, your car will constantly stop when you accelerate or when you release the gas, when you release the accelerator. To fix this, remove and inspect the air filter. Replace if it is very dirty or chipped. To diagnose and replace the idle air regulator, you will need the help of a qualified car service center.

Testing the mass air flow sensor (MAF)

Let us remind you what we are talking about - VAZ-2110 8-valve injector: the speed drops and stalls. A reasonable question arises: what to do? If the reason is not the IAC, then it is worth testing the mass air flow sensor. Here are some recommendations on how to do this:

1. Disconnect the sensor connector from the on-board system. The controller that controls the engine will operate in emergency mode, but for short testing this is not fatal. If your car runs much faster, then the problem is most likely in the mass air flow sensor. It's time to clean it.
2. Replace the sensor with a working one, and then see how the engine works. There are improvements, which means you need to either clean or replace your own mass air flow sensor.
3. It also makes sense to inspect the air intake; to do this, you need to remove the mounting clamp and carefully inspect the inside of the air intake, there should be no condensation or oil there. If any are found, then it will have to be cleaned with special means.
4. You can also test the mass air flow sensor using a multimeter. To do this, you need to switch the multimeter to voltmeter mode and set it to 2. The sensor has 2 wires - yellow and green. Yellow transmits a signal to the controller, and green transmits a signal to ground. When the ignition is turned on, we take measurements between these two wires. The engine should not be running. If the readings are in the range of 1.01-1.02, then the sensor is in perfect order. Readings in the range of 1.02-1.03 – it’s time to clean the sensor. And if the indicators go off scale to 1.04, then it’s time to get a new sensor.

Now we have figured out the main symptoms of a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor; neither testing nor troubleshooting is particularly difficult. It is quite possible to cope without after-sales service.

Checking the serviceability of the throttle position sensor (TPS)

Our problem may be caused by a faulty DPSD. But it is this sensor that is tested last, when everything has been tried and tested. But in vain, it is easy to test, you can save a lot of time and money if you check this sensor. How to do it:

1. This sensor is located on the throttle pipe, it is connected to the throttle axis. The sensor is secured with two screws. When removing the sensor, you should pay attention to the condition of the throttle valve, whether it is coked. If yes, then there will be the same symptoms as with problems with the sensor. However, the sensor can be checked without removing it.
2. To do this, you need to measure the voltage at the DPSD terminals when you turn on the ignition, and it should not exceed 0.7 V.
3. Next, open the throttle using the plastic sector, and then measure the voltage again. It must be at least 4 V.
4. Next, check the voltage at the DPZD terminals when the damper moves. It should not change; abrupt changes indicate a sensor malfunction.

Having found out that the sensor is faulty, it should be replaced. On the VAZ-2110, 2 types of DPZD are installed - film-resistive and non-contact. The first is designed for 55 thousand mileage, the second is unlimited, but much more expensive than the first.

Well, dear friends, we have presented some tips for servicing your car yourself. I hope you find them useful.

Source

Ignition system

Pay attention to the condition of the ignition module (article on module repair here), high-voltage cables and spark plugs. If there are traces of corrosion on their surface, melting or cracks on the body, this will only mean that each of the above elements will have to be replaced, since they cannot be repaired or corrected. To correctly approach the problem of choosing spark plugs for the VAZ-2112, you can read this article.

First we check the wires, and then the spark plugs.