Grant liftback trunk lock rattles how to fix it

We often hear complaints from car owners about poor-quality Granta Liftback trunk door locks. They say they fail prematurely.

The dissatisfaction is well founded, since from 2014 to 2022 the manufacturer installed one type of lock, and then a number of improvements were made and a new version appeared. It is still used in mass production. In order to provide methodological assistance to drivers, we will consider in detail the stages of prevention and replacement of door locks on Grant Liftback.

How to select and adjust locks on the trunk and doors of the Lada Granta Liftback

We often hear complaints from car owners about poor-quality Granta Liftback trunk door locks. They say they fail prematurely.

The dissatisfaction is well founded, since from 2014 to 2022 the manufacturer installed one type of lock, and then a number of improvements were made and a new version appeared. It is still used in mass production.

In order to provide methodological assistance to drivers, we will consider in detail the stages of prevention and replacement of door locks on Grant Liftback.

Methods for implementing an electric drive

There are two types of trunk lid drive: pneumatic and electric. The first one seems more complicated due to the fact that it has a compressor, a receiver, and the air is constantly under pressure. The cost of such structures is quite high, but they are not short of reliability. Such mechanisms need to be monitored as closely as possible, because high pressure affects the elements of the device.

Opening and closing the trunk must be done in several ways at once. It is recommended to install the button on the dashboard or driver's door. In parallel with this button, you can install a relay controlled by an alarm or remote central locking. On sale you can find various devices for opening and closing doors. Car alarms and remote central locking systems have several backup channels, which are connected to the drive buttons that control the opening of the trunk lid. But this will be discussed in more detail later.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are current as of 10/08/18.

What is important to know about silent locks on the Lada Granta Liftback

Not all car owners are satisfied with the ease and noise level when closing the doors of their car. The defect is caused by excessive wear of parts and design flaws at the manufacturer level.

The principle of noise suppression is implemented by an installed noise absorber. In Lada Granta Liftback models, this is a rubber insert or a plastic polymer.

Silent locks are structurally composed of a pin and a shackle with a noise-absorbing insert. Some car owners practice replacing the arms, while leaving the standard locks unchanged. Already in this case, the noise level will be significantly lower, and locking the door will be easier.

At the same time, systematic use of the door lock leads to rapid wear of the polymer/rubber material. The owner has to come back for preventative maintenance again and again.

Installation

Installation of the automation component can be carried out by specialists at the dealer’s service center, or independently. Next, we will look at the garage installation process, which is quite simple if you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations, and also use high-quality components.

Required elements for installation:

• electric drive;
• opening button with ready-made connector or 2 cables;
• cable about 30 centimeters long;
• 2 clamping elements;
• auxiliary components: insulating tape, pliers, wires, Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers;
• key for 7 and 8.

Before starting installation, you should remove the lock rod, which means replacing it with a cable (temporarily). This is due to the fact that the rod does not allow the lock to open until the key is turned. Using a cable makes it easy to open the trunk from the outside without any problems and keep it open.

The installation algorithm includes the following steps:

1. disassembling the trunk door:

• remove the central plastic plate, which is secured with two latches at the edges;
• unscrew the screws that opened after removing the “plastic”;
• remove the main casing from the open corners, having first unscrewed 2 more bolts located on the handles in front of the structure;
• Under the skin there are metal components and parts, including the above-mentioned door rod.

Mounting bolts to be removed

1. "Fitting"

• selecting a location for installing the drive, later making notches for the mounting holes;
• pulling back;
• drilling holes for mounting self-tapping screws and inserting the drive together with the rod installed inside. It is important that only the component is baited to the site of upcoming installation, without fastening. This is done in order to accurately determine the length of the pull;
• Afterwards you need to make sure that the door lock is open. The design includes a ring that needs to be pulled. This is necessary to open the lock mechanism;
• We bring the rod to the ring and make a notch. For this purpose, cutters or forceps are used;
• After planning is completed, we remove the layout of the structure, including the castle. To do this, the mounting bolts are unscrewed. To do this, use a key of 8;
• the right corner of the lock is dismantled along with the second end of the rod;
• The component is completely removable, as is the connector.

Drive installation

1. Installation

• we thread the cable onto the second ring of the lock (instead of the original rod). We clamp the cable with a key number 7;
• increase the length of the drive wires. This is realized by cutting off the folders and then winding the cables: green for the interior and blue;
• installing the finished structure in place, connecting components through the key hole.

Do not forget about careful handling of the wires, which should not be damaged during installation. The cables should be routed through the internal door harness - blue - to ground. Connecting the electrics of the drive to the button follows a similar principle.

Electronics connection diagram

Preparatory stage

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones. Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

Common Causes of Premature Wear

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

Replacing the hood lock

Sequence of actions when replacing the rear right (left) door handle

We carry out the work modularly, since initially it is necessary to dismantle the casing, the internal filling, and unscrew the handle latches.

Stage No. 1: dismantling the card.

1. We place the car on the site, provide priority safety measures, and activate the parking brake.
2. Open the rear left door and raise the glass to the top position.
3. We twist the blocker (soldier).
4. Use a screwdriver to pry up the fastening of the window lifter handle, remove it from the grooves, and remove the lock.
5. We pry the plastic insert in the center of the card and unscrew the bolt.
6. The remaining three bolts are located in the lower perimeter of the card, as well as behind the door handle.
7. The plastic card is attached to the metal body with ten clips. During the dismantling process, be extremely careful, as the clips are too fragile and often break.
8. Snap off the card in a counterclockwise direction.

Reviews

Conclusion

The standard door locks on the Lada Granta Liftback are of good quality. Subject to careful handling and periodic lubrication, the service life is five years without mileage limitation.

Negative reviews are associated with violation of the terms of use of the mechanisms by the owners themselves.

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How the system works

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The central locking system includes the following main blocks and components:

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central electronic unit;

driver's door electronic unit (can be combined with the central unit);

electronic units for driver, passenger and rear doors (may be missing);

push-button switches for driver, passenger and rear doors;

limit switches for closing windows and doors;

control units and window lift drives.

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In most car models, the power window and central locking control units are connected into a single system. When closing the doors, the central locking system must poll the limit switches of all windows so as not to accidentally park the car and guard it with the windows open. Therefore, the failure to close the doors is often associated with a malfunction of the window regulator controls.

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For a 2005 VW Passat, the electrical circuit for the central locking looks like this:

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1. Drive, buttons and limit switches of the passenger door (hereinafter referred to as Dv);
2. Passenger engine control unit;
3. Window lifter control unit and rear left drive;
4. Rear left drive motor, switches;
5. Driver's switch;
6. Driver's driver's side switches;
7. Driver's control unit, internal;
8. Control unit for rear right door and window lifter;
9. Multifunctional control unit.
10. Blocker.
11. Central locking drive rear right motor
12. Window lifter switches and buttons.
13. Fuses serving the central locking system.

This diagram does not show and label all the elements, but it is clear that the circuit is very complex, perhaps the most complex among the main electronic modules of a car.

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At the same time, the central locking control circuit has the longest electrical wiring, which is distributed throughout the vehicle interior and has flexible corrugated hoses at the points of transition to the door space. Among other difficulties, car doors have maximum mobility relative to the interior; their interior space is susceptible to corrosion.

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Despite the above difficulties, car models after the 2000 release have fairly reliable electronic central locking systems; their main malfunctions are often determined by mechanical breakdowns, faulty contacts, and wear on the door suspension.

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How to diagnose the trunk door lock of a Lada Granta liftback

During the operation of Lada Granta liftbacks, owners may encounter a situation where, while driving, the door open indicator lights up on the instrument cluster. Or, when the fifth door is closed, the light in the trunk is on and the car cannot be set to alarm. To identify the causes of these malfunctions, LADA dealership centers use information letter No. 87-19 “On diagnostics of the tailgate lock of Lada Granta liftback cars.”

The diagnostic technique is as follows

:

1. Open the tailgate (the trunk light is on), note that in this case a two-position lock 21910-6305010-10 (84500-02338) is used.

2. With the door open, manually close the lock 2 clicks using a screwdriver with a diameter of up to 6 mm, moving it beyond sector “B”. Closing the lock by 2 clicks is shown by the levers “A” located at the right point of movement until it stops according to the photo below:

Check that there is a guaranteed gap between the emergency trunk release lever and the inner panel of the tailgate. The gap should be from 0.3 mm to 0.9 mm.

If there is no guaranteed gap between the lever and the door panel, or the lever is jammed, with the formation of rubbing on the lock lever, it is necessary to remove the lock to modify the plane of the plastic lever. Using a mechanic's tool, remove 0.5 mm of the width of the lever to eliminate harmful contact causing blocking of the lever and blocking of the limit switch.

If, after carrying out the above actions, the lighting in the trunk when closing the trunk lock manually with a screwdriver for two clicks with the tailgate open, while the interior doors are closed (make sure the door limit switches are in working order, if any, taking into account the configuration), and the hood is closed (make sure the limit switch is in good condition if it is included in the package), dismantle the trunk lock and check the limit switch circuit along the circuit of pins No. 1 – 2 for opening when the lock is closed.

If the lock's limit switch does not open the circuit at pin No. 1–2 when closing it, replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.

If there is no closed circuit at pins No. 1–2 when opening the lock, also replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.

3. If the lock is in good working order after carrying out diagnostics according to point 2, and the defect “the light is on in the trunk” is absent when the lock is manually closed with two clicks on the open tailgate, but the defect is present when the tailgate is actually closed, while the door is in the gaps has no deviations relative to the body, and it is impossible to determine visually how many clicks the tailgate lock is closed; it is necessary to adjust the door lock latch.

Let us remind you that you will find other instructions for self-repairing Grants in this section.

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Advantages of the new Granta Station Wagon

On August 29, 2022, at the Moscow International Motor Show, it presented two “missing” body modifications for its “bestseller” - the LADA Granta model line. A hatchback and a station wagon have been added to the sedan and liftback, which have long been successfully sold and leading on the Russian market. And if there were no special questions about the first new product (what we expected was what we got), then the “universal” version surprised many.

Let's start with the fact that the LADA Granta station wagon turned out to be shorter not only than the sedan, but also the liftback (by 150 and 132 mm, respectively). Of course, for any motorist, reducing the length of the body is an advantage in terms of maneuverability, but something completely different is usually expected from station wagons. Most often, these are long “cars” that are much larger in size than other representatives of the line and offer additional centimeters of space for passengers and luggage.

There is nothing like that in the LADA Granta station wagon - the wheelbase remains the same, the free space of the first and second rows has not increased, and the trunk volume has even decreased (355 mm versus 440 mm for the liftback and 520 mm for the sedan). So what is the benefit for the buyer of this car? Everything falls into place if we consider the “universal” Granta solely as an “enlarged hatchback”, it’s not for nothing that they were presented at the same time.

Trunk lid rattling

If we consider the rear door of the car, which closes the luggage compartment, then it is attached at three points:

The door obviously cannot rattle in the upper hinges. It remains to look for the reason in the castle. On modern cars, the closing elements of the lock are covered with plastic. Therefore, the trunk doors rattle less in these places. On cars of earlier releases, all parts are metal without any coating.

The knocking sound occurs due to the fact that when the rear door is closed, a small gap remains between the lock parts and the fixing element on the body.

When the car moves, especially on a bad road with uneven surfaces, the door moves and the lock latch hits the locking element on the body. As a result, a knock is heard from the rear of the car - this is the trunk rattling, and specifically the trunk lid.

How to find the cause of the sound and fix the problem, you ask? If you don’t improve anything, then nothing. But car owners use different tricks and give their “experienced advice.” For example, some drivers wrap 2-3 layers of regular electrical tape around the body clamp. As a result, the gap after closing the door decreases or disappears altogether.

Of course, electrical tape will not solve the problem forever, since when moving it is affected by the lock, and it becomes unusable. But if you rarely open the trunk, then for a month or two you will get rid of the problem and drive in silence.

In addition, on the sides of the door from below it is supported by two rubber buffers, which can be twisted and extended. Therefore, you need to adjust the length of the buffers so that they support the door sufficiently when closing it. If adjusted correctly, electrical tape may not be needed.

General recommendations

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Periodically open the door with the key, even if you always use the central locking key fob, so that the door lock mechanism does not get stuck.

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Do not try to warm the lock with hot water if it is frozen in winter. It's better to try an electric hair dryer. Commercial liquids for freezing at low temperatures do not always help.

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Tighten the door suspension, if it wobbles, this can lead to jamming of the lock and blown fuse for its power supply.

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How can you determine which alarm system is used in a car using a key fob?

If the car windows sweat from the inside https://voditeliauto.ru/sovety-voditelej/zapotevayut-stekla-v-mashine-iznutri-chto-delat.html what to do in this case and what folk remedies can be used.

Video - repairing the central locking on a Hyundai Getz:

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Trunk lock rattling

In addition to the trunk lid rattling, the lock itself can make similar sounds. This happens when it is already so worn out that nothing can be done with it. It's easier to buy a new lock and replace the old one.

The trunk lock does not rattle only in recent foreign cars, and even then not in all brands. This problem is all too common among domestically produced vehicles, and even the Lada Vesta. She sometimes experiences noise from the lock.

Knocks from the rear can appear when starting from a stop, when driving on a bad road, over uneven surfaces, or when turning. In all cases, there is a reason for the knocking, why the rear rattles or the trunk knocks.

Drive assembly

This is not to say that the assembly procedure is overly complicated. Any motorist who knows how to handle the tool can do everything. Of course, you will still have to work with a soldering iron to properly connect the wires and diodes to the relay and control device.

It is recommended to install the drive with control from the standard alarm; the work procedure is as follows:

1. First you need to modify the trunk lid drive mechanism. To do this, remove the electric motor and turn it around so that it can function along the rack. All excess parts of the plates must be trimmed using a grinder.
2. Make a fastening bar from perforated steel.
3. Install the racks and electric motors of the drive mechanisms on the perforated strip. The entire structure must be placed on the body panels. It is advisable to strengthen the installation sites in advance.
4. One edge of the mechanism that is not used must be secured to the holders on the lid.
5. Adjust the mechanism.

After installing the drive elements, you can begin connecting the electronic components.

Trunk shelf rattles

This reason occurs in almost all car brands, except Japanese cars, with rare exceptions. Here drivers manage as best they can. Some people place soft elements under the sides of the shelf, for example, glue strips of soft foam rubber. Other drivers simply put a rag on hand and don’t bother too much.

On many cars, the rear parcel shelf rattles because the rubber buffer that is installed on it from the factory is missing or lost. When closing, the door presses the shelf through this rubber element, and the shelf is pressed tightly. As a result, the rear parcel shelf no longer rattles. Therefore, if there is no rubber band, buy it at a car store and get rid of the problem. Or install a homemade support instead.

Knock from front or rear

If you hear knocks in the front of your car, this is a topic for a separate discussion. There the issue may be in the brakes and suspension, chassis and other components. A knock from the rear on the right or left also applies to the luggage compartment of the car. Here, look at what you have there, what things or objects can make sounds.

A pump that is not secured and on bumps in the road simply jumps and rattles can knock. A jack can create the same problem. Most often, after putting things in order, everything returns to normal. Keep an eye on your “iron horse” and everything will be fine.

Granta sedan. Something is knocking on the bumps in the back, I can’t tell from the sound that it’s like a trunk or like a shelf. Maybe someone had something similar?

Place a passenger and let him listen

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Same problem, I looked through everything, it seems as if the spare wheel in the trunk is jumping.

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There's something rattling around my right rear door. Just as the backside is packed with passengers or cargo, so is the silence

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check the handbrake cable

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That's how it should be, it's an AvtoVAZ. Joke. No matter where it makes noise, my car is three and a half years old. We don't have normal roads at all. Today I changed the wheels and looked at the suspension, which was all dead. There is not enough time, spare parts were purchased a long time ago.

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The back of the seat was knocking like that

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Perhaps you need to change the bagels and put a screw nut under the plate! Oh, I'm exhausted with these bagels. Also on the back right! I ate all my nerves. As a result, I welded the puck there and replaced the original bagels with some foreign ones, the weights were several times greater. I also placed a rubber washer under the plate and on the plate and tightened it. All voila silence

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The rear suspension of a car is represented by a set of components and parts that act as a connecting link between the body and the road surface. It, in comparison with the front suspension, often has a simpler design, which is due to the absence of steering system elements, load distribution and the position of the center of gravity. Despite this, nodes can still fail. The first sign of a malfunction is the appearance of a knocking sound from the chassis.

Rear suspension design

In order to determine what could be knocking in the suspension, you should know what this element of the car consists of.

A sound in the rear suspension may appear when one of the above elements fails. At the same time, we note that if there is a constant knocking, it is imperative to carry out diagnostics of the suspension. If working with a car causes many problems, then you can entrust the diagnostics to specialists from a car service center. Note that the rear suspension has a very simple design and you can dismantle the worn part yourself.

Possible causes not related to suspension

Before determining what might be knocking, you should make sure that there is a problem with the suspension. Often, a knock may appear due to a minor malfunction of another element, but with strong vibration on the road, it seems that the problem is with the chassis elements. Possible causes of knocking include the following:

Diagnostics of suspension guides

Many cars have a similar rear suspension design, which makes diagnostics and dismantling easier. The differences can only be in the principle of fastening and the type of installed parts. During the diagnosis you should:

The threaded connection of the flanges used when attaching the guide elements can also cause a problem. The flanges can be repaired, but it is recommended to install new ones. The check is carried out on an overpass or pit, since problems are determined visually or using force (that is, you need to strongly loosen the guide elements with your hands). This will require good lighting. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out work in the garage.

Spring problem

Although springs are very durable, they can also wear out over time under certain operating conditions. Often, spring wear manifests itself in a slightly different way: the car wobbles at high speed, strong rocking, or a sagging rear end. However, when looking for something that may be knocking, you can conduct a visual inspection and pay attention to the following points:

In most cases, springs lose their elasticity due to long service life or when exposed to heavy loads (for example, a passenger car has been used for a long time to transport a heavy load). The appearance of defects in the turns indicates poor quality of the metal used in manufacturing, a manufacturing defect, or severe wear. If everything is in order, we carry out further inspection.

Shock absorbers: a common problem caused by rough roads.

Shock absorbers can be considered the most vulnerable structural element. They are designed to absorb impacts when overcoming broken sections of the road. You can determine shock absorber wear as follows:

Consequences of ignoring a knock

Any extraneous sounds that appear while driving must be identified without delay, as their presence may indicate a serious malfunction. In this case, let’s look at the consequences of knocking in the rear suspension:

In most cases, a knock in the rear suspension is detected almost immediately, as it occurs while overcoming a bump or pothole on the road. As a rule, suspension elements fail after their service life has expired. If you replace parts in a timely manner, you can avoid road accidents and serious material costs.

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