Why doesn't the stove on the VAZ 2112 heat up, cold air blows

The onset of winter for car owners is indicated not only by worsening weather conditions and a decrease in ride quality, but also by problems with the stove. Which of us remembers the heater of our VAZ in the summer? In the spring the stove turns off and it only gets to work in the fall. And this is where problems begin, for example, the interior does not warm up well or, in general, cold air blows from the VAZ-2112 stove. Before contacting a car service, you can try to figure out this problem yourself. It’s not that difficult, believe me, many problems with the VAZ-2112 heater can be eliminated with minimal effort and expense.

Most problems with the VAZ-2112 heater can be fixed yourself

The main reasons for a non-working stove

If the VAZ-2112 stove does not heat well, then one of the following problems may be occurring:

1. Impossibility of temperature control.
2. When there is a cold air flow under the hood, uncharacteristic clicking sounds are heard.
3. The radiator is leaking.
4. Lack of functioning of the temperature sensor, which can be found on the ceiling of the cabin.
5. Damage to the ACS control unit.

These reasons are the most common. You can eliminate each of them yourself, and we will tell you how.

Inability to regulate temperature

If the VAZ-2112 stove does not heat, then it is worth checking whether it is possible to regulate the temperature regime. This problem may occur due to malfunctions in the control unit or due to a malfunctioning damper. First of all, it is worth checking the serviceability of the temperature sensor, which is located on the ceiling of the cabin near the ceiling lamp. We turn the temperature control lever starting from the cold position and ending with the hot position. Although temperature changes will still be felt. If the supply of hot air begins only when the sensor is installed in the hot extreme position, then we can speak of its failure and prepare to replace it with a new element.

First of all, check the temperature control lever

Damper problems

If the stove is not blowing well, then it is worth checking the operation of the damper. The fasteners on it may oxidize and in this case the damper will not turn. You can only get to the damper through the hood, after first removing the deflectors and bending the antennae. After such actions, you can try to move the damper from the inside. If everything is fine with the damper and there are no traces of oxidation on the fastenings, then it will move easily.

The damper drive has a micromotor, which is located near the windshield under the hood. This element can also cause the stove to not heat. To get to the micromorch, it is necessary to dismantle the frill and insulation. When the warm air supply is turned on, the lever should move, this indicates the serviceability of the motor.

The design of the motor contains gears that tend to wear out and, as a result, slip. In this case, you should seriously think about replacing the motor. Although among car owners there are craftsmen who drive without a motor and close the throttle with their hands. With such repairs, the stove will constantly blow hot air, which is not at all good.

If there is poor airflow, check the operation of the damper

Radiator leak

When the heater is not blowing, it is worth checking the radiator for leaks. Adding fluid to the radiator only saves the situation for a while, but then the problem with the heater arises again. A leaking radiator is one of the complex problems that relate to the heating system of the VAZ-2112. The main snag is the need to dismantle a large number of parts, including the stove itself.

If the condition of the radiator is unsatisfactory, the best solution is to replace it. Of course, small cracks can be soldered and still enjoy a comfortable ride for some time. If large leaks are detected, you should still think about replacing the radiator, otherwise you will have to assemble/disassemble the car quite often.

Other ways to solve the problem

It also happens that the stove blows hot air and everything seems to be functioning properly, but still your feet get cold and the windows sweat. Replacing the corrugation will not improve the situation much. But if you insulate the interior and eliminate existing cracks, then the flow of warm air will purposefully move towards its goal and will not be wasted fighting cold air. You will also need to stock up on anti-creaking and mounting foam to insulate and seal the panel.

If the heater blows cold air despite all your efforts, then it may have already served its useful life and it’s time to replace it with a new one. VAZ-2112 owners are offered two replacement options to choose from: model 2112-01, the design of which does not provide a cleaning filter, and model 2112-02 with a filter with a working reserve of 15 thousand km.

Alternatively, you can install a preheater in your car. This device will reduce the time it takes to warm up the engine and interior.

So that the stove always warms

Follow simple rules for proper operation of the stove.
If you pay attention to the heating system and do not start this important element of the car, you can protect yourself from unpleasant surprises, lengthy repairs and unnecessary expenses. Follow simple rules and the stove will always work properly.

1. Regular cleaning of the radiator is the main condition for the normal operation of the heating system.
2. It is advisable to fill the radiator with high-quality antifreeze from reliable manufacturers. Using a fluid of questionable quality will lead to rapid build-up and the need for frequent cleaning of the system.
3. Antifreeze should be replaced at least once a year.
4. If the thermostat is faulty, then it must be replaced with a new one, the sooner the better. The thermostat often gets stuck in the open position, which leads to insufficient heating of the interior and prolonged warming of the car itself. If the thermostat breaks while it is closed, the car may overheat, which will entail serious consequences and costly repairs.
5. The stove does not heat well when air gets into the heating system. This is not the worst problem, which can be easily eliminated by manually pouring antifreeze or idling the car for a short time.
6. It is necessary to periodically check the damper control levers to ensure they are working properly. If the cable has come off and the valve is faulty, the air flow will not be sufficiently heated.
7. The stove fan design contains bearings that sometimes need to be lubricated.
8. Using cabin filters and regularly cleaning or replacing them. Air passes through a clogged filter with difficulty, therefore the stove will not work at full capacity.

Now for each of you the question of why the stove on the VAZ-212 does not work will not seem so difficult. You can find the cause and eliminate it without specialists; you only need desire and at least minimal car maintenance skills.

a sensor specially installed on the ceiling . The controller, having received a command from the sensor, activates a micromotor reducer, which controls the air damper, thereby directing the air flow in the appropriate directions.

A driver who is not familiar with the basics of electrical engineering and does not know how to use a tester can only troubleshoot by replacing the corresponding heater components . In order to check whether the stove on a VAZ 2112 is working in the set mode, you need to remove the central deflectors and through the resulting hole, see if the air damper moves when you turn the corresponding handle on the controller.

If the air damper does not move, then first of all you need to check the temperature sensor , it is located next to the ceiling lamp. We remove the lamp cover, unfasten the block with wires, and replace it with a known good one. Again we check the operation of the damper. If it continues to remain motionless, then the micromotor gearbox will have to be replaced in the same way. If the malfunction is not resolved, the controller itself will have to be replaced.

heater fan has 4 operating modes. If it stops working at all, then first you need to check the serviceability of the 20 ampere fuse F7 and relay K6 . They are located in the mounting block. If everything is intact here, then you will have to check the mode switch and the fan motor, whose commutator brushes may wear out or become stuck. Well, in extreme cases, the armature winding may burn out.

There are cases when the fan stops working at low rotation speeds; the reason for this state of affairs is most likely to be the burnout of the additional resistance. It is located on the fan motor housing. It will be possible to get to it only from the engine compartment.

If only warm air comes out of the heater nozzles, and not hot air, then you need to start looking for possible reasons in the engine compartment, checking the operation of the engine cooling system. If the thermostat is faulty, when the coolant circulates only in a large circle, in winter, the coolant temperature will not rise to operating temperature. This means that the air passing through the heater radiator will not warm up well enough.

The more modern the cars produced today become, the more complex their additional equipment becomes. Therefore, the driver is not always able to find faults that arise in them on his own.

Related posts:–>

If the stove does not work on a VAZ-2112, then initially you need to find the reasons for this, and not change, modify or redo something.

Causes of poor heating

The reasons for insufficient heating vary. The most common of them is an insufficient amount of antifreeze in the engine cooling system. To determine the amount of coolant, you need to check the expansion tank and add antifreeze to the level if necessary. The next significant reason may be hidden in the heater core. Often a crack or small hole appears in the radiator, which affects the quality of its operation.

An air lock is another problem that prevents the radiator from fully performing its functions. You can try to eliminate it. To do this, you need to drive your front wheels onto a hill and stand for several minutes with the engine running at medium speed. In some cases, simply replacing the cabin filter is enough. The reasons, as you can see, can be different; some will take a few minutes to eliminate, while others sometimes take half a day. But let's look at what needs to be done if the stove does not heat well.

Briefly about the design

It is important to know that the heater of a VAZ-2110 car consists of two different elements.

1. Directly to the heater.

This unit is located under the hood of the car. Its task is to prepare the air before entering the vehicle interior, that is, to control the flow rate, temperature, and so on.

2. Air distributor.

This system is located directly inside the car and is located on the instrument panel.

See the general structure of the VAZ 2110 stove below.

When the engine is warm, cold air from the VAZ stove

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It turns out you have antifreeze. something is preventing its movement through the system.

Khakimov_aleksandr

The thermostat is stuck

Has anyone thought about the pump?

Changing the pump did not help.

Khakimov_aleksandr

Is the expansion tank plug normal, does it bleed air somehow? Maybe the heater radiator itself is clogged and the cap is bad; a valve cover malfunction is not uncommon.

P.S. Comrades! Don’t scare the author with a broken cylinder head gasket prematurely!

Ivan Sergeevich

and I

Khakimov_aleksandr

Regarding cold air, clean the cooling system and you will be happy

I changed the thermos, the temperature no longer rises! I am very happy!

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Checking the resistance resistor

The stove resistor has 2 spirals, the resistance of the 1st is 0.23 Ohms, and the 2nd is 0.82 Ohms. When both are activated, the heater electric motor operates at the first speed, but if the resistor operates at the first spiral, then the 2nd speed is activated. At the third, maximum fan speed, when the resistor is not used. When the electric motor is turned on without a resistor, the fan rotor rotates at the maximum 3rd speed.

In addition to the above malfunctions, the stove may also not work due to a low level of antifreeze, air in the cooling system, or a non-working thermostat or pump.

Mayevsky crane

Design of the Mayevsky crane

It is designed to eliminate air lock in the heating battery. Despite its small size, the Mayevsky faucet helps to effectively remove accumulated steam not only in radiators, but also in pipes.

Structurally, it is a needle valve enclosed in a metal housing. How to remove an air lock from a heating system using it? First you need to decide on the device model.

Manual taps

After installation in the upper radiator pipe, air is released after turning the union nut on the tap. Removing an air lock from the heating system using a Mayevsky manual tap is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Filling the system with coolant. The taps on the radiators are closed;
• When the maximum level is reached, the water supply stops;
• Having set the required gap of the needle limiter in the devices, the taps are opened;
• At the same time, the coolant supply is restored.

Water is added to the system until liquid begins to flow from all Mayevsky taps. Be sure to check that there is no air flow. This method is effective for removing air locks in heating radiators when starting the system for the first time, before the season, or when airiness appears during operation.

Manual models will effectively eliminate air lock in the radiator for both autonomous and central heating. The main thing is to choose the right mounting thread. In most cases it is 1/2", but there are models with a non-standard size of 3/4".

Automatic taps

Mayevsky automatic crane

Unlike the model described above, in their design, a seat with a certain surface area is installed on the end of the needle valve. In combination with a return spring, the degree of pressure of which determines the critical pressure value at which the valve opens. A detailed device is designed to automatically break through a heating plug when a critical temperature value and, as a result, pressure is exceeded.

However, before installation you should familiarize yourself with the specifics of this model:

• To prevent water from getting onto the floor, the structure must have a pipe to drain excess water into the sewer;
• If it sits for a long time, the valve seat may become covered with limescale, which will make it difficult to open. Therefore, it is recommended to open the tap manually once every 2-3 months. The steps of the procedure must be done before starting the heating for the first time;
• The set maximum opening pressure should not exceed the critical pressure of the entire system. In order to remove an air lock from the heating in automatic mode, the pressure value on the tap should be 5-10% less than the maximum.

What is better to install: an automatic or manual Mayevsky crane? If the operation of the system does not involve sudden pressure surges, manual models can be installed on the radiators. For autonomous heating, preference is given to automatic ones.

It is best to choose models made of brass. During the expulsion of an air lock from the heating, they can withstand not only a critical pressure value, but also a temperature. The steel body is subject to destruction and rusting.

conclusions

Remember that the efficiency of the stove and not only the VAZ 2110 depends on you. Of course, the manufacturer has not provided for everything in this matter, but you have the hands, knowledge and desire to do everything perfectly.

By spending 1-2 hours of your time, you will 100% prepare your car for winter.

With all the great love for VAZ cars, drivers understand that, despite minor features in the operation of various car systems, their generation is still significantly different. The uniqueness of the VAZ-2112 is manifested even in the heating system, which is not similar to its predecessors (except perhaps for the model above 2110). Accordingly, this also affects the features of the repair.

Why the stove in the VAZ-2112 does not heat and how to repair it correctly and efficiently is not always easy to say. Before you begin repair work, you need to understand (at least superficially) how the heating system inside the car works. It is completely electronic, which makes its function more convenient, but at the same time difficult to repair. Now the stove has three regulators that help the driver choose the temperature of the desired heating and the direction of warm air (to the feet, for example). The point is that there is a sensor on top of the cabin that regulates the air supply (by an internal damper in the stove), depending on the reaction to the temperature.

This is a very complex design, so without some knowledge in electrical engineering it is difficult to carry out repair work on your own. Not because replacing parts will be problematic. This part won't cause much difficulty. But it will be difficult to establish the source of the problem and find out why the stove does not heat as it should without a tester and an understanding of how the wiring in the car works. The only way to proceed in this case is to replace all the parts one by one in the hope that the problem will go away.

The stove does not heat: reasons, repairs

1. A common cause of failure may be that the damper in the ceiling panel does not move (or moves weakly, not completely). This means that the temperature sensor has failed and needs to be replaced.
2. Additionally, as with any vehicle electronics, a wiring problem cannot be ruled out.
3. It often happens that the damper operates with some noise, and a striking effect is also noticed: the radiator is hot, the water in it is already boiling, but the air still does not become warm.
4. In addition, it can run idle: there is work, but there is no result in adjusting the air.

This indicates that the damper is broken. Gluing the flap together is not difficult, but getting to it is not the easiest task.

To be able to remove it from the housing, you need to disassemble the heater. In general, there are two dampers: one blocks the flow of cold air (when required) and controls its flow as a whole, and the other regulates the air supply directly from the stove.

The VAZ-2110 stove malfunctioned: we determine and eliminate the causes

If the stove stops functioning correctly, this does not mean that the entire system has broken down. Often, the failure of one of the structural elements of the heater leads to its incorrect operation. There can be quite a few reasons for the breakdown, as well as symptoms indicating this. The stove may blow cold air or not blow at all. The most common reasons include:

• Drive fault;
• Problem with the heater dampers;
• Leaky air ducts;
• Formation of an air lock in the radiator;
• Thermostat malfunction.

A distinctive design feature of the “tens” stove is the missing heater tap. Such a system is much more complex in terms of design, but also many times more effective. The operation of the system is to circulate coolant in a large circle with a constant entry into. The air entering the car interior is controlled by a motorized damper. The whole process is possible thanks to a micromotor, which is controlled manually or automatically. If the stove blows cold air, then the fault should be looked for in these components.

If the stove blows cold, then the first thing you need to do is make sure that the drive changes the position of the dampers or is trying to do so. To check the functionality of the device, just turn on the ignition and start turning the switch. While turning the position switch, make sure that the micromotor is running and the flaps themselves are moving. If this does not happen, then it is necessary to completely dismantle the stove.

The first series of VAZ-2110 included interior heaters with plastic dampers. Afterwards, the manufacturer began to equip the stoves with metal ones; they are more reliable and do not jam as often as plastic ones. When exposed to high temperatures, plastic flaps slowly deform. It is the deformation that contributes to their jamming.

If one damper jams, then hot air will not flow into the cabin. In addition to their jamming, dust contamination and rust formation on metal elements are also possible. All this prevents the free movement of the dampers. Whether these elements work properly or not can be understood while moving them. Faulty dampers make extraneous sounds during their movement. The problem is solved quite simply, but it is necessary to completely disassemble the stove, repair the dampers using improvised means, or completely replace them.

temperature sensor

You can often encounter the following problem: it is not possible to properly regulate the temperature in the cabin. In most cases, the problem is a failure of the control unit and an incorrectly set damper. This is not a difficult problem at all, and it can be solved quickly. First you need to check the serviceability of the temperature sensor. To do this, move the heater knob to one side, and after a while - to the other. The temperature of the air entering the cabin should change. If this happens, the problem is not in the controller. If the temperature sensor does not work, you can temporarily turn on the stove without it, then the temperature in the cabin will be the same as that set on the electronic unit.

Cold air from the stove

Throttle lever cable

In addition to a leaky design, there may be other problems with the stove. For example, the heater is not working at full capacity, cold or barely warm air is blowing from the blowers. The stove works this way due to the weak tension of the damper control cable. We need to solve this problem by making several turns of the cable on the control lever, which is located on the heater body. The housing is located near the gas pedal.

Why does the stove work poorly and blow cold air because of this cable? The fact is that each joint of the air ducts and the damper is covered with foam rubber. Because of this material, the control lever requires a lot of force to compress the flaps. As a result, a gap of 2-4 mm appears. The damper that takes in “fresh air” through the radiator or from the street does not close well. After a few millimeters, the outside air flows directly into the side and top blowers. At speed and with the fan running, the air does not have time to heat up, so the stove operates in “summer” mode and does not heat the interior well.

Formation of air jams

If, when the antifreeze is at operating temperature and the tap is open, cold air is blowing from the deflectors, then most likely the radiator is not working properly - there are air pockets in it. The problem is solved quite simply: the VAZ 2110 is installed so that the front wheels are higher than the rear ones. That is, to a suitable height where the engine operates normally. Next, we need to fully open the tap and press the gas pedal. The engine runs for about 5 minutes - during this time we sometimes need to press the gas pedal. After this, everything needs to be returned to its original position.

Main Culprits

Let's try to find the culprit that may be causing the stove to not work.

temperature sensor

The temperature sensor is located on the engine.

Key to 19

If the sensor works well, the damper will move depending on the value set on the regulator. You can check this by removing the deflectors and observing the movement of the damper.

Checking the operation of the coolant sensor at home with a multimeter

You should also check the resistance of the temperature sensor in the cabin itself. At 20 degrees the resistance should be 20 ohms, at 15 degrees - 25 ohms.

Stove controller

To check the operation of this element, you need to pull it out of its socket. Next, you need to turn on the ignition and turn the temperature switch knob. In this case, you should measure what voltage is on the wires in different positions of the regulator (these are brown and pink wires).

Disassembled stove controller

If everything works properly, then voltage on the wires will appear depending on the position of the switch itself. This voltage should subside on its own within 10-15 seconds after turning the regulator knob . If this does not happen, then the controller is acting up. It can only be completely replaced.

Gearmotor

Gear motor diagram with explanation

Due to the fact that it is out of order, the stove on the VAZ-2112 can also malfunction. It is quite difficult to check the operation of this unit. To do this you need to get into the engine compartment. After removing the sound insulation and frill, you will need to remove the wiper drive. There will be two connectors. The connector to which the brown and pink wires fit will be the connector of the gearmotor.

Initially, you need to check if the wires themselves are broken. To do this, you will also have to check the voltage at the gearmotor connector. If the wires are not broken, then there will be voltage.

To check the condition of the gearbox itself, you need to apply a voltage of 12 V to the connector. When it starts to spin, then everything is in order. If this does not happen, the part will have to be completely changed. If the gearbox spins, but the stove does not work, then the reason must be looked for in the wires and connectors. They may be oxidized.

The heater only works in one position

There are several options here. We'll have to check them all.

1. Test the wires in the controller . They may break or burn out.
2. The wires in the relay may have come loose . You need to look for the relay block in the engine compartment.
3. An additional resistor on the heater housing may burn out . It is he who regulates the speed of the fan.

Cold air coming from the damper

This may be due to a faulty thermostat or air temperature sensor. It is also possible that the antifreeze level in the cooling system is low.

Broken gear motor or heater

In almost all cases, a non-working gear motor is easier to replace. In order to release this element, it is necessary to remove the windshield wiper, “jabot” and unscrew the screws. After this, you need to remove all the wires going to the gearmotor, and then remove it too. Next, change the non-working element and adjust the air supply.

The heater malfunctions very rarely, but it should also be checked. To determine its condition, you need to dismantle the main deflector and also straighten the fasteners. Large amounts of scale or mechanical damage will indicate a non-functional condition.

Secrets of using a heater

In order for the VAZ 2110 stove to work as long as possible, you need to follow a few simple secrets:

1. Look at how the carpets are positioned under your feet to see if they are blocking the outlet of hot air. If the nozzles are blocked for any reason, they must be raised.
2. If you have an air conditioner in your car, it is advisable to turn it on when it is very damp outside.
3. It is advisable to use both heating positions - on the glass and on the feet. The first position is suitable for quickly drying the windshield, and the second for heating the feet.
4. Before turning on the heater, remove all excess from the glass.

Ways to fix sewer problems

In order to try to remove a blockage in the sewer drain of an apartment or house, you must first determine the location of the blockage.

So, if a problem with water outflow is observed in the kitchen sink, and all other drain points are working normally, it means that the garbage plug has formed specifically in the siphon under the sink. In the same way, you can identify blockages under the sink in the bathtub or under the bathtub/shower stall itself. Depending on the location of the plug, chemicals such as “Mole”, etc., can be poured into the drain hole in accordance with the instructions and eliminate the problem of deposits on the pipes.

• As an aggressive anti-clog agent, you can use simple soda mixed with hot water. That is, first pour soda into the hole in the bathtub or sink, then fill it with hot water. After this, vinegar is poured into the hole. The reaction of the components should push the plug or simply liquefy it.
• You can also use a standard plunger to remove a blockage in your home drain. Cleaning is easy with it. You need to fill the plumbing fixture with water and tightly cover the drain hole with a plunger. Now you should make rhythmic movements up and down with the plunger, creating a vacuum in the manifold. Under its influence, the plug should either come out (most often it is hair) or go into the waste system. You can clean the sink and toilet in a similar way.

Assembly

When installing a new damper, be sure to make sure that the fork located on its axis is clearly engaged with the lever. If the flap is in the raised position, you did everything right. Otherwise, it will be impossible to control the device, so you can forget about restoring the functionality of the stove.

Damper location

After this, reverse the assembly procedure according to the dismantling steps. Refill the system with coolant and check that the new damper is in place. It is important to ensure that there are no leaks and that the hose connections are not tight.

Turn on the stove and check how the heater behaves. If everything is normal, you have carried out competent and successful work, for which we congratulate you.

What to do first

In order not to get buried in the abundance of reasons, it is necessary to act from simple to complex. Leave the frightening thoughts of a broken cylinder head gasket and take a trifling attitude, as if the electric damper actuator has failed. Actually, that's where we'll start.

Check the operation of the climate control shutters

Turn the knob or rocker of the climate system and evaluate the temperature of the incoming air. For example, with “blue all the way” the air should be noticeably cold, and with the maximum red settings it should be warmer.

Immobilized valves will not be able to mix flows according to the specified °C value. Therefore, at any position of the regulator, air will blow at the same temperature. The dampers stop as a result of damaged fasteners or a failed servomotor.

Is the antifreeze level in the expansion tank stable?

Lift the hood, find the “extender” and the boundary marks on it. When cold, the antifreeze level should be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the tank is constantly emptying, look for leaks. You can look at where the coolant goes using the Lada Vesta as an example.

Heater radiators of some cars, for example Lada Kalina, are very sensitive to the amount of antifreeze in the expansion tank. At the slightest leak, the engine heats up, and the stove is cold or barely warm. And in general, when liquid flows out, air comes in and thus the system becomes airy.

Inspect the heater radiator for unobstructed circulation

Find two pipes going to the heater heat exchanger near the engine shield and touch them. The radiator assembly is embedded in a small circle in parallel, which means that the hoses should warm up immediately after starting the engine. It is better to carry out work when the engine is warmed up.

How to remove an air lock without draining the coolant

It happens that if there is air in a small circuit, the temperature sensor on the dashboard behaves strangely: the needle sometimes jumps. For example, it was at 60°C and instantly became 90-100°C, then returned back. This is explained by the fact that the air heats up noticeably faster than the liquid and to higher temperatures. As a rule, the needle twitches when the system is seriously aired.

The fact is that a small traffic jam does not always go around the entire small circle. Air accumulates at the highest point of the circuit - the radiator of the car furnace, causing the circulation of coolant in it to slow down. At the same time, there are no sudden temperature changes in the motor jacket. Even without observing extraneous symptoms, assume that the engine is overheating and the cabin heater is blowing cold air due to air accumulation. Try to etch it out, because you don’t need to disassemble anything:

• Raise the front end on a lift or drive up a hill.
• Allow air to escape through the highest point in the system. Why unscrew the cap of the expansion tank if it is a circulation tank (there is no plug on the engine radiator), or the cover of the engine heat exchanger. On front-wheel drive Ladas, the highest point is the throttle heating hose, disconnect it.
• Warm up the engine to operating temperature at idle speed.
• Increase the speed to 2,500-2,700 units.

How to easily remove a dirt plug from a furnace heat exchanger

When one side of the heater radiator is cold and the other is hot + no antifreeze is coming out, feel free to flush the heater radiator installation. There is no need to remove anything except the pipes. The only equipment that will be useful is a submersible pump from a country well, a deep basin, long hoses and one of the means for flushing the car engine cooling system.

Find out where the heat exchanger has the inlet and outlet and start cleaning:

• Disconnect the standard tubes. When dismantling the pipes, 1-1.5 liters will drain. coolant. A 2-3 liter coolant canister is quite enough to replenish reserves. There is no need to drain all the antifreeze from the system.
• Connect the hoses leading to the pump and basin: supply to the radiator outlet, drain to the inlet.
• Fill the container with cleaning agent.
• Turn on the pump for 10-15 seconds.
• Reconnect the hoses: supply - to the inlet of the heat exchanger, drain - to the outlet.
• Turn on the pump for 15-20 minutes.

• The flushing composition will circulate in a circular manner: from the basin and back into it.
• A short supply of fluid in the opposite direction quickly flushes out the dirt plug at the radiator inlet.
• Check whether antifreeze flows from the radiator steam pipes into the tank (relevant for circulation “expanders”).

Repair recommendations

So, we have dealt with the causes of malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 stove, now let’s move on directly to troubleshooting the problems.

Problems with temperature control are one of the most common causes of malfunction. In most cases, this is caused by a failure of the control unit or damper.

How to proceed in this case?

Check the functionality of the temperature sensor (it is located on the ceiling, near the interior lamp).

It is because of its malfunction that the required command may not reach the damper.

Diagnosing a sensor malfunction is simple - move the control knob to one extreme position, and therefore the other. In this case, it is necessary to monitor whether the temperature of the outgoing air changes.

There can be two options here - the temperature does not change at all, or the air begins to warm up only when the handle is in the extreme (maximum) position.

In the first case, repairing the VAZ 2110 stove by replacing the sensor alone will not cost you - you need to look for another reason.

In the second case, we can confidently talk about the failure of the controller itself.

Failure of the gear motor.

If, when the heating is turned on, only cold air enters the cabin, then there are obvious problems with the stove.

In 9 out of 10 cases, the cause of such a malfunction is the failure of the gearmotor. Typically, replacing this element allows the system to return to full functionality.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. Remove the windshield wipers;
2. Remove the frill (to do this, you need to unscrew three screws);
3. Disconnect the wires from the gearmotor;
4. Remove the old one, install and connect the new device.

For greater convenience, it is better to hire a partner as an assistant - he will adjust the air from the cabin.

The procedure for removing the gearmotor of the VAZ 2110 stove.

Heater failure.

Sometimes the cause of a malfunction of the VAZ 2110 stove can be the heater itself. To verify this (or refute the assumption), it is necessary to dismantle the main deflector.

This is easy to do - just bend the special fasteners and move the flap (you can crawl up to it from the side of the engine compartment).

If the radiator breaks down and needs to be replaced, you will have to disassemble the entire stove (if you wish, you can do this work yourself).

Poor quality of air heating by the stove.

If you are not satisfied with the VAZ 2110 stove in terms of the speed and quality of air heating, then you should take a few simple steps:

• firstly
  , do not be greedy with money to buy a high-quality aluminum damper (it’s better to throw away the old “piece of plastic” right away). Such a replacement eliminates the curvature of the damper when switching and, accordingly, helps conserve heat;

• secondly
  , install a new heater (the factory type is not of high quality). The most preferable option is to purchase heaters from a VAZ-2112-1 or 2112-2. But there are some disadvantages here too. The first type does not have a cleaning filter, and the second type does not have a recirculation function. Each of the filters described above can easily “go away” 15 thousand kilometers;
• thirdly
  , it wouldn’t hurt to spend money on installing pre-start heaters, or many people call such a device an antifreeze heater. Their task is to preheat the interior and engine.

Insufficient airflow in the area of ​​the side windows and feet.

According to the complaints of many car enthusiasts, the VAZ 2110 stove does not warm up the legs and windows enough. In such a situation, the only way out is to improve the air channels inside the car.

You must act in the following sequence:

• 1. Make sure the stove is working. Only after this does it make sense to modernize the system.
• 2. Dismantle the panels completely and disassemble them into small components.

• 3. If there are cracks (slots) in the panel, seal them or install a new hose. But in most cases, the first option is quite sufficient.

• 4. Inspect the top and bottom of the panel carefully. If there are cracks, they must be carefully treated with anti-creak. Try to do everything efficiently, because you won’t have time to return to this work later. The fastening points and holes must also be carefully taped.
• 5. Remove the damper along with the factory seal. Now carefully glue the valve using modelin and process the existing gaps (including on the driver’s side).
• 6. Inspect the air ducts that go to the feet. If there are cracks, seal them.
• 7. Remove the factory air distributor, insert corrugated tubes into the holes and seal everything with foam for security. Particular attention must be paid to the pipe - it must have a thickness of at least four centimeters in diameter.

• 8. As a result, you get three tubes, one of which goes back to the passengers, and the other two go to the driver and front passenger. All that remains is to put everything back in place.

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

Modernization of the heater for the driver’s feet, we will write a separate article about this. The photo shows our editorial car.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

Alternative options for upgrading the stove

The first method is to dismantle standard air ducts. They go from the main tunnel under the back row. Due to the hard plastic, the warm flow does not reach the rear passengers. By installing more modern air ducts, we will get a more pleasant result. Some drivers prefer to dismantle them altogether so that hot air flows directly - this is also a good option, but the temperature may be too high.

The third option is suitable for those VAZ 2110 owners who very rarely carry rear passengers. It consists of completely blocking the flow to the rear of the car. This can be done with suitable material. For example, polystyrene foam. The main thing is that the material can withstand high temperatures. The hole can be closed at the outlet of the distribution block. The result is a powerful flow to the feet of the driver and front passenger.

An excellent option for solving a heating problem is to replace the standard 5-hole thermostat with a 6-hole one. The effect will be noticeable: after turning the knob one and a half turns, the cabin thermometer on the on-board computer will not show less than 90 degrees. The temperature remains stable, and the stove heats better.

The fourth option is to install a plug for the central deflector. This part will practically block the path of air to the deflector, so the flow will be directed to heating the entire cabin, including the side windows, which are constantly frozen in winter.

Is the stove blowing cold? Don't forget about the thermostat and filter

The thermostat and radiator are key elements in the heating system. If the thermostat fails, the liquid in the system will circulate bypassing the radiator. The consequence of this will be the entry of cold air into the cabin. How to check the functionality of the thermostat? Follow the following sequence of actions:

1. First, warm up the engine and open the hood.
2. Find the lower radiator hose in the engine compartment.
3. Determine its approximate temperature (cold, warm, hot).

Ideally, the pipe should be warm and even hot. If the element is absolutely cold, then we can say with confidence that problems with the stove are directly related to thermostat malfunctions. Car owners often forget that there are filters in the heating system. One of the key air purifiers is the cabin filter. Over the years of operation, it becomes unusable due to its excessive contamination. The cabin filter must be changed periodically.

The VAZ-2110 stove plays an important role in the comfortable and safe operation of the car. Identifying and eliminating the problem that prevents warm air from entering the cabin is quite simple.

To do this, it is necessary to begin a step-by-step diagnosis. Sometimes drivers, when a malfunction is detected, rush to extremes and begin to look for the cause of the breakdown in the very depths of the system, when the solution lies on the surface. Normalizing the operation of a car heater does not take much time; all parts and components are available on the auto parts market today.

Poor heating at idle

If you suddenly experience a flow of cold air while the engine is warm and the heater is on, there are probably problems with the thermostat or pump. The cause of this phenomenon may be a damaged cylinder head gasket. A broken gasket gives the effect of an airy state. But this is not the worst situation, it is much worse if the reason why the stove does not heat well is a non-working pump.

A failed pump will not circulate coolant, causing the engine to overheat. So if the heater on your car begins to heat worse, you need to check the performance of the pump. A faulty heater valve also affects the flow of warm air into the car interior. If it stops working normally, the inlet hose will be hot and the outlet hose will be cold.

Design features of the VAZ-2110 heating system

The main design elements of the heating system in the VAZ-2110 car are:

• a stove or heater in which hot air entering the car interior is prepared;
• air ducts - pipes through which air flow heated to the required temperature enters the cabin;
• hot air distributor or control unit;
• evaporator responsible for removing condensate. This component is available only on the VAZ-2110 car and is the main design feature of its heating system.

If the stove starts blowing slightly warm air instead of hot air, it is necessary to look for the cause of the problem in a malfunction of any of the above components.

Trouble-shooting

Checking the cabin air temperature sensor

You can check the serviceability yourself; special skills are not required. Carefully remove the sensor from its original place. We find the contacts on the back side. Using a multimeter, apply a voltage of 1.2V. We set the regulators of the automatic heater control system to the “Min”, “Max” positions. The motor should not be activated.

The second method is to turn off the cabin air sensor. Check fan speed settings. The first speed (“A”) should be inactive.

Video: Heater VAZ 2110, 11, 12. Design and principle of operation.

Checking the proper operation of the automatic control system

The proper operation is checked with a multimeter. The voltage at the terminals of the pink and brown wires is measured, the ignition is activated. Smoothly turn the temperature regulator; the arrow on the multimeter display should show an increase in voltage.

Here are some tips and tricks

I want to tell you an incident that happened to me.
I began to notice that the stove was not working evenly, that is, my feet were freezing, and the windows in the car were fogging up as they warmed up. I couldn’t figure it out for a long time and started looking for an answer on websites and saw that this was a fairly common problem. To eliminate it, it is necessary to modify the system. I did this: I removed all the panels and disassembled them, there were cracks and various holes. You just need to seal them up. In this case, complete sealing is most important. But I also found another way on the websites: the damper itself is removed, as well as the standard seal. After this, the cracks must be processed on the driver and passenger sides and where possible the valve must be glued.

I would like to note the fact that it is optimal to turn on the heater in the “windshield/legs” mode. This way you will avoid severe overheating of the windshields, but at the same time warm up your feet and the interior itself.

Useful information on using the heater

The above methods help improve interior heating. But it wouldn’t hurt for motorists to familiarize themselves with the operating rules of the stove and adjacent systems. This will help keep the heater in working condition:

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

Modernization of the heater for the driver’s feet, we will write a separate article about this. The photo shows our editorial car.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

Malfunctions in the heating system

Now let's discuss why the VAZ 2110 stove may heat poorly.

There are several main reasons for this:

• firstly, the seal in the radiator of the device was broken, which led to a leak;
• secondly, there is no way to change the temperature regime of the heater;
• thirdly, elements of the system such as a gearmotor or damper have failed;
• fourthly, there were malfunctions in the operation of the automatic control system (the unit responsible for controlling the heating system);
• fifthly, the temperature sensor, which is mounted in the ceiling of the car, is faulty.

Winter has come, and many car owners are beginning to notice that their car's heater is not heating well.

This is the wrong approach. It is necessary to prepare the “sleigh” in the summer - isn’t that what folk wisdom says?

Therefore, it is advisable to carry out diagnostics while still warm and, if malfunctions appear, fix them immediately.

How to act if the VAZ 2110 stove does not heat well, read on.

Why are there problems with temperature regulation?

If you set a temperature that is comfortable for you, but the stove blows barely warm air, the cause may be adjustment problems that arise in the following situations:

• The temperature sensor installed near the ceiling light does not work. This device cannot be repaired, so it will need to be replaced;
• failure or “freezing” of the damper. This part is located under the hood and can break due to oxidation of the fasteners. It is best to replace the plastic damper with an aluminum product, which will last much longer and will not create any problems.

As you can see, to solve the problem with temperature regulation, it is enough to replace one of the worn or failed parts. You can do this yourself, without involving a specialist.

Characteristic symptoms of malfunctions

In practice, there are five most common signs:

1. The VAZ 2112 heater does not work, it constantly rotates at one stable speed;
2. Temperature is not adjustable;
3. The air flow control flaps are fixed and cannot be adjusted;
4. Sensor - regulator on the ceiling is in a faulty state;
5. Unstable operation of the ACS controller (automatic heater control system)
6. Antifreeze leaking from under the radiator.

The list is not exhaustive, but only indicates the main malfunctions of the VAZ 2112 stove. Prevention will require a visit to a service station followed by diagnostics.

Causes of breakdowns

1. violation of the terms of scheduled technical inspection;
2. installation of non-original parts, components, consumables;
3. filling the cooling system with antifreeze (antifreeze) of low quality or with chemical impurities, the quantitative composition of which exceeds permissible standards;
4. mechanical damage to the fluid supply line, accident, collision, impact, violation of installation technology;
5. short circuit in the network, electrical circuit, which contributed to the failure of the controller, sensors, resistors;
6. damage to the damper control lever, malfunction of the dampers;
7. poor terminal contact;
8. damage to electrical wiring and cable sections.