Every motorist knows that a generator is a fairly important element in the design of any car, thanks to which it is possible to set the engine in motion and provide all vehicle systems with the necessary energy.
The Russian-made Niva car in modifications 21214, 2121, 21213 are vehicles that almost every second car enthusiast in Russia has encountered.
Despite the release of several models, the contents of the Niva are practically no different. Thus, manufacturers used units with article numbers 9412.3701, 371.3701 as a generator in cars.
Device Description
On Niva 21214 cars there is a generator of type 9412.3701, on VAZ 21213 - type 371.3701, on Niva Chevrolet there is a generator 2123. All of them are alternating current electric machines with electromagnetic excitation, having a built-in rectifier unit with silicon diodes and an electronic voltage regulator. The maximum current produced by the generator unit type 9412.3701 is 80 A, voltage - 13.2 - 14.7 V, rotation - right.
Design of unit 21214
The unit covers are attached to the stator using 4 bolts. The covers have bearings installed. They rotate the rotor shaft. In the front bearing, the inner race is clamped with a nut along with a thrust ring and washer. The 2nd bearing is also pressed into the back cover.
The stator has a 3-phase winding, one of the ends of which is connected to a rectifier unit consisting of 6 diodes. Of these, 3 diodes are negative, 3 are positive. According to the polarity, they are pressed into the plates. The entire structure consists of a rectifier unit, which is located on the back cover of the generator unit covered with a protective casing.
The design of the unit also includes contact rings and brushes. On the back side of the back cover there is a brush holder, which is structurally connected to the voltage regulator. The rectifier contains a capacitor that protects the electrical network from power surges.
The “B” terminal of the generator set must be connected to the positive terminal of the battery, and the negative terminal of the battery to the vehicle ground. If the connection is incorrect, this will lead to breakdown of the diodes.
Generator Niva 21214
What is a generator
A generator is an alternating current device that produces electromagnetic excitation during operation. The generator design has a built-in rectifier unit, equipped with diodes made of silicon, as well as an electronic voltage regulator.
Thus, the unit creates electrical energy from mechanical energy and energizes the car’s battery, and also provides energy to its devices and systems. The connection diagram for the generator on Niva-2121, 21213, 21214 is shown in the figure.
Basic malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
Checking the health of the unit is done using a multimeter. After the engine is started, the voltage at the battery terminals should be 13.6 V. If the value is higher or lower, this indicates a break or short circuit of the windings, oxidation of the slip rings, a malfunction in the brush assembly, or voltage regulator.
The generator unit may not work well due to weak belt tension or its breakage. In this case, you need to adjust the tension or replace the belt. Faulty voltage regulator, needs to be replaced. If a breakdown, short circuit, or damage to the rotor windings is detected, it should be replaced. If there is a break or short circuit in the stator windings, it requires replacement. If the diodes are damaged, the rectifier unit is replaced.
Characteristics of the standard generator
The main characteristics of the generator installed by the manufacturer in Niva 21214, 21213, 2121 will be considered using the example of generator type 9412.3701:
- current – 80A;
- voltage – 13.2 V,
- rotation is right.
The cost of standard models of electric generators is 5-7 thousand rubles. If the unit breaks down, it is possible to replace its components or completely replace it with the original or analogues. The prices of the most common ones are presented in the table.
| Analogue | vendor code | Cost, in rubles |
| Generator VAZ-2104-21073,21214 | 9412.3701-03 | 5900 |
| Generator VAZ-2104-21073,21214 | 372.3701-03/05 | 3800 |
| Generator VAZ 2121-21213,21214 | 9412.3701 | 5450 |
The table shows that in the process of replacing a generator on a Niva, you can give preference to a cheaper universal analogue.
Nuances of moving a generator
The disadvantage of domestic Niva SUVs is the location of the generator unit - at the bottom of the engine compartment. It constantly gets contaminated when driving off-road, and coolant constantly drips. The problem is solved by moving the generator upstairs (the author of the video is SARTANETS).
To transfer, you will need a set of keys, a bracket, mounting bolts, and a V-belt. You can make a generator transfer bracket with your own hands according to the drawing below.
Drawing of a homemade bracket
Sequence of actions during transfer:
- We dismantle the propeller, pump and remove the belt.
- By unscrewing the standard bracket, you can remove the generator.
- We cut off the bead around the side of the cylinder head and on the cylinder block.
- Then you should unscrew the two bolts and two studs.
- Next, the assembly is installed on a new bracket and final assembly is performed.
Thus, moving the generator unit upstairs is not difficult.
How to check the operation of the generator
The battery in a car is an important element of the system, which is responsible for providing the car’s on-board network with electricity.
The generator is used to charge the battery while it is active. Unstable operation of a device generating electricity causes a voltage drop in the network and failure to restore the capacity of the power source. Normal generator performance means timely and complete replenishment of the battery charge level, which decreases under load. Checking the battery charge level from the generator is simple and can be done by the car owner himself.
Diagnostics of an automotive energy-generating device includes a visual inspection of the unit, its elements and related parts, as well as voltage and current measurements. At least twice a year, you should check the tension of the drive belt, excessive weakening of which leads to a decrease in the performance of the generator, and sometimes can lead to breakdown of the device.
Diagnostics of indicators such as voltage, current, resistance are also necessary twice a year. To carry it out, you will need special devices - a voltmeter, multimeter or load fork.
It is traditionally believed that 13.5-14.5V should be supplied by the generator to the battery and this is absolutely enough to replenish the battery costs.
It is worth considering that using a battery with a higher power in a car than the manufacturer recommends also requires the installation of a more productive generating device.
It is necessary to take into account the load that the generator must withstand - it is calculated based on the maximum indicators of all electrical appliances and car systems.
Do not forget that the charging current from the energy-generating device will allow you to start the car in the cold season. In order to avoid problems with starting the car, we recommend purchasing generating equipment, the charge current of which will be approximately 10% of the capacity of the power source.
That is, a battery of 100 A/h requires a generator that can produce 10A. Please note that for many cars, 100 amp equipment will operate at its maximum capacity, because the power consumption of the automotive system is in the region of 80 amps. Therefore, the choice of a source generating energy must take into account both the battery capacity and network consumption.
The potential difference can be diagnosed in two ways - directly at the generating equipment and through the battery. The generator is directly connected to the power source with a thick wire, therefore, to check the level of potential difference, you can measure the voltage at the power source. To do this, you will need special devices - a voltmeter, multimeter or load plug.
The wires of the first measuring instruments are connected to the battery in any sequence. The plug must be connected to the battery terminals with strict observance of polarity. It is generally accepted that the normal voltage in the network should not be lower than 12 volts. At idle speed without turning on all the electrical appliances of the car, this indicator should be at the level of 13.5-14V. A drop in voltage values to 13.3-13.8 volts is considered acceptable.
At the same time, using conventional testing equipment, you can check the resistance of the generator elements - rotor, stator and diode bridge. Diagnostics of rotary equipment is carried out by its winding. It is necessary to connect the probes of the device with slip rings. If the multimeter gives readings from 2, 3 to 5.1 ohms, then this element is working. The current consumption of the winding should be within 3-4.5 amperes.
Its normal resistance is 0.2 Ohm. The diode bridge is checked by the presence or absence of resistance, the indicators do not matter. The only thing worth considering is that there should not be a zero dimension. Measurements are carried out in pairs - positive output and all plates on this side or minus and all elements.
We remind you that for normal charging of a car battery, the voltage supplied by the generator must be from 13.5 to 14 volts.
The current strength required by the electrical system of each car is individual and depends on the number of electricity consumers and their values. And also the charge current must be sufficient to charge the power source.
Also interesting: Hot-dip galvanizing on Niva is used only on a few parts, and the hood and roof are not galvanized at all
It is worth noting that ampere readings appear only when there is a load in the vehicle’s electrical system and, accordingly, the battery is discharged. After starting the car engine, the charging current is about 6-10 amperes and drops over time, because the battery is charging, taking on the main energy consumption. If you turn on additional equipment - headlights, radio or heated mirrors, you can see an increase in the charging current values.
When purchasing a generator, pay attention to its technical characteristics, which the manufacturer indicates on the case - that’s where you will find information about the maximum current that will flow to the battery.
In the table below you can see the approximate current values that the generator shows at different loads.
Table 1. How many amperes the generator produces under load.
A small potential difference in the system is not always associated with a breakdown of the generator or a bad battery. If the diagnosis of these elements does not reveal any problems, then you should pay attention to the following:
- condition of the battery terminals - connection density and oxidation;
- electrical wiring problems - oxidation, violation of its integrity;
- output contacts to electrical appliances;
- correctly selected energy consumers.
Each contact must be tightly adjacent and intact, that is, there must be no formations (for example, sulfation) that will disrupt the flow of current. Incorrect connection of contacts leads to accelerated battery discharge even when the car is not running.
To improve the connection of the elements of the car's electrical system, it is necessary to clean all contacts and restore the integrity of the wires by replacing them or connecting them and wrapping them with insulating tape.
In conclusion, I would like to repeat that stable operation of the car requires constant monitoring of all elements, and the generator should attract special attention. The battery is charged from it and provides electricity to the entire car system. Pay attention to all elements: generator brushes, slip rings, voltage regulator, equipment winding.
The most correct measurements should be carried out when the battery is fully charged and in various modes. Remember that the manufacturer links the characteristics of the generator to the number of engine revolutions - they help produce a certain current.
Do you have experience diagnosing an alternator and solving problems in a vehicle's electrical system? Please share your experience and opinion with our readers in the comments. If you have questions about the topics covered, we will be happy to answer them.
Guide to removing and connecting the generator
To remove the unit, you need to prepare a set of tools: keys “10” and “19”, ratchets with heads, a hammer and a small extension.
The process consists of the following steps:
- First of all, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Next, you need to remove the engine protection and the right mudguard.
- Then, using a hammer, carefully knock out the mounting bolt and remove it.
- At the next stage, you need to disconnect all the wires going to the generator: the plug and the wires secured with a nut.
- Then the fastening on which the belt tensioner is located is unscrewed.
- By removing the belt, the assembly can be dismantled through the hole that was formed after removing the protection.
- After replacement or repair, install the unit in reverse order.
Maintenance Tips
The factory instructions require troubleshooting the ignition system in the following sequence:
Ignition system: wiring for Niva 21213
- From the ignition switch (terminal 15), connect the wire to the coil (terminal +B) to a test lamp;
- Connect its negative terminal to ground;
- Turn on the ignition - turn the key in the lock to position “II”;
- If the control lamp lights up, then the circuit is working. If not, look for damage to the wire;
- With the ignition on, pull out the central wire from the coil from the distributor;
- Bring its metal tip to the cylinder block so that a gap of 3-4 mm forms between them;
- Turn on the starter for a few seconds;
- If the spark jumps, the coil is working.
Tip: you can quickly check the switch in one way - take it from a working car. If the car starts with the new switch, then you need to buy a new one.
Generators for VAZ 2106 and 2107
The generator on the VAZ 2106-2107 costs the same as on the VAZ 2101 - G221. If you install additional external current consumers that operate constantly, this will lead to undercharging and insufficient current will be supplied from the relay regulator. These additional devices include:
- powerful audio systems;
- fog lights;
- TV;
- preheater;
- additional heater;
- fridge.
Any similar device will lead to greater power consumption and, consequently, to premature battery discharge, even when the engine is running at high speeds. Standard devices for 2106 were developed a long time ago and are not designed for modern energy-consuming add-ons.
In this case, it is recommended to replace the standard generator with a more powerful unit.
What to install?
G 222
If you need to increase the current power, then, when deciding which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2106 or 2107, instead of the standard one, take the G 222, which was installed on the VAZ 2105, Nivakh. It would seem that it itself is no better than the standard one on the “six”, but you can take an upgraded version that will be more powerful. Unlike the 221, this unit is designed with a built-in regulator relay, assembled into one unit with brushes. The G 221 gives an output of 42 A, and the 222nd - 50 A. Increasing the cross-section on the rotor winding increases the power, although the design is completely similar to the G 221. However, to install it on the 2106 you will need minor modifications. The easiest way is to install brushes from G 221. They fit perfectly in place of the relay. This modification is quite feasible even for car enthusiasts who do not have the skill.
Tools:
There seemed to be a service in the area where we worked. I'll give the car back and go to the office while they fix it. The charge was just enough to get to the box.
The last meters were walked by hand. The electrician came out and said in a menacing, confident voice that everything was full today and he couldn’t do it. But the problem was solved immediately by itself.
My property was already in a box and I couldn’t leave on my own. But the comrade who was supposed to come has not yet appeared. In general, they quickly diagnosed me that the diode bridge had burned out.
The auto parts were a block away from the service station. An hour later I was back on the wheels. Hooray!
Parts and consumables:
The diode bridge burned out photo from the network. When overcoming puddles, it will be much more difficult to fill it than the lower ones. So I started thinking, maybe I’ll install a more powerful generator, because I plan to install a trunk and, of course, a chandelier; I think 4 lamps from hella will fit in quite well.
Plus I will also install a winch, and it also drains the battery pretty badly.
And if the gene is weak, then when fighting off-road, we can get a situation where we are skidding in the dark, the chandelier is turned on, the engine is boiling - both fans are threshing at full strength, we are pulling with a winch - will the gene be enough for 80 amperes? Such energy consumption, of course, will not happen often, but when it happens, it’s better to be safe, isn’t it?
Which generator is better to install on the Niva and why is it time to change it on your car?
Hi all! It's time to take a look at our SUV's electrical system. Namely, to the generator. As you know, it powers the battery and supplies current to absolutely all devices: from the cigarette lighter to the “chandelier” or winch. The “gene” is not always changed because it is broken. So let’s figure out what and why you can do with it!
As you know, an electric generator is a vehicle device that converts mechanical, thermal or any other non-electric energy into electrical energy. It is an electricity producer.
The Niva SUV, especially in capable hands, takes the owner and passengers to such distances, as in the famous song, where “you can’t really step.” Therefore, Lada 4×4 almost always has additional electrical equipment - from a harmless low-power standard music radio to quite serious consumers of electricity, such as a compressor, additional lights, etc. This is where discomfort arises - sometimes even the headlights barely shine on the Niva, sneaking through the fields for fishing or to the hunter’s night shelter.
Lada Priora - generator replacement
The Priora requires a powerful generator; the car has a lot of electronics and a weak installation cannot cope with it.
A generator labeled 5102.3771 is recommended for the Priora, providing a power of 80 A; on luxury versions with even more electronics, a 115 A device is installed. Then which generator is better to install on the Priora?
Car owners recommend a unit produced by KZATEtm Samara plant under number 9402.3701-14, producing 115 A.
There is no need to modify it during installation, you just need to find the connector, because there are differences from the standard one. You can use a plug from a VAZ-2108 from the limit switch for turning on the reversing lights, which costs only 20 rubles.
Next, you will have to make a little modification when connecting to the “B+” power terminal in order to fit it to the desired size.
The cost, of course, of domestic units is higher than that of Chinese or Bulgarian ones, sold for 2200 and 3000, respectively. For Russian ones they ask for about 4000. But if you need repairs with Russian-made components, you can easily find spare parts.
Which generator is better to put on a VAZ 2110
VAZ 2110 factories install KATEK generators with a current of 80 A. The service life is 140,000 km, which is approximately 10 years of vehicle operation. Answering the question of which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2110, experts recommend products from Russian manufacturers.
What to consider when choosing
- Russian manufacturer or foreign? Of course, first of all, Russian manufacturers are preferable. If only because it is easier to find spare parts in the event of a minor breakdown. If you purchase a generator for a VAZ 2010 from a not so popular company, it may be difficult to find spare parts, and they will not cost you so much.
- Current strength. Factory models for VAZ 2010 - 3771 or 94.3701 - are designed for 80 A, this current is enough, even if there are additional devices that consume it. More powerful ones - 120 A - are installed in the presence of powerful acoustics, no harm is done to the battery, and you will provide all energy consumers with uninterrupted current.
- It is better to purchase a generator if there is a warranty on it. There may well be a defective product, and the warranty will provide the opportunity to replace it with a new one.
Generator Manufacturers
It is best for 2010 to purchase a standard generator from KATEK or KZATEtm Samara plant, and about 50% of owners do just that, according to statistics. They are reliable, cope perfectly with their functions, creating the necessary tension.
Among the foreign-made generators, we can recommend Bosch, Delphi and Denso, which are also reliable and popular.
Alternator bracket diagram for VAZ 21213 (carburetor)
The author of the drawing made a bracket from a piece of metal 80x80 mm, 4 mm thick. The upper adjustment bar for the generator is borrowed from the Volga. It was cut in place and a new 8.5 mm mounting hole was drilled.
VAZ 2110 crankshaft pulley, GAZ 3110 pump pulley, 6RK1290 belt. A standard cooling fan is installed on the pump pulley. The location of the generator is top left. The lower mounting point of the fuel pump, at the front we attach it to a standard stud and bolt, and at the top there is an M8 cylinder head bolt. The lower long generator mounting bolt with an engraver and an additional locknut.
Another bracket drawing provides for a belt measuring 1375 mm. You will need to modify the plane on the head in the area of the M8 bolt with an angle grinder, and also change the studs and bolts securing the front cover.
Belt 1220 mm profile “A” (ZIL157), wedge angle 40 degrees. High pressure pressure hoses have a length at the centers of the fitting holes of 1450 mm. Return sleeve - 1115 mm. You will have to cut a hole for the hoses in the right protective casing. The belt is 710 mm long, other dimensions are the same. The photo on the left shows the hydraulic pump bracket, on the right - the power steering in the new place.
There are ready-made kits for moving the Lada 4×4 generator upwards on sale, but the price for a piece of iron can be greatly inflated. Thus, by making such a bracket ourselves, we extend the service life of the generator and save money.
And also interesting: Relays and fuses for Lada 4×4 (VAZ 21214, 21314) » Lada.Online - all the most interesting and useful about LADA cars
Have you ever encountered such a modification? How did you solve a similar problem? Let us remind you that in another article we determine whether the Lada 4×4 needs a more powerful generator.
Keywords: 4x4 generator
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