Today I noticed that the turn signals do not blink but are always on when the low beam is on. When the dimensions are active, they work normally. When the low beam is turned on and the turn signals are on, they blink once and start to light up.
What could be the problem? where to dig? I haven’t checked anything yet, because I don’t know where to dig. Search engines make the case that the relay was the problem, but could there be other sources of the problem?
In this article we will look at the main reasons why turn signals do not work on such ship models as: 2108, 2109,21099, 2113, 2114, 2115. All these models belong to the SAMARA family and have similar electronics. In any case, this article is suitable for all cars, because the causes of the malfunction are the same for all.
Repairing turn signals is a simple task in many cases. The main thing is to find the cause of the problem.
The turn signal does not turn on
If the turn signals do not light up or the turn signal stops working, there are several reasons:
- Check the lamp for operation and replace if necessary. Replacing the turn signal.
- Check all connection contacts (in the block, in the direction indicators, on the switches).
- Check switches.
- Fuses and relays. Replace, check contacts. If the turn signals and hazard lights don't work at the same time, the problem is again 99% in the relay.
Main causes of malfunction
Problems
Minor or partial repairs will not always save the situation. But before removing the starter from the VAZ 2110, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the main reasons for its failure, which serve as a reason for replacement.
- When turning the ignition key, a grinding noise occurs in the engine compartment. This is the cause of a faulty bendix or flywheel.
- Clicking noises are heard when turning the key. The reason is the solenoid relay, which needs to be replaced.
- The engine turns over with a friend. This indicates that the starter brushes are worn out.
Turn signal closes
Refer to Tail Light Assembly. The rear light panel is the weak point of our cars. Most likely, the problem is again a trace of oxide. Corrosion causes the different paths to touch and short out, causing the fuse to blow.
Why does this trick happen with turn signals? The left lights up all right, but the right ones have some kind of creaking noise when turned on and the turns light up and don’t blink
- Turns and the VAZ 2108 alarm system blinks faintly - 2 answers
- The front right turn signal in the VAZ 2108 does not work - 2 answers
- Side lights flash instead of a turn signal, VAZ 2109 - 3 answers
- How to repair turn signals and hazard lights? — 2 answers
- Rear shutdown 21099 - 3 answers
Check relay. When you turn on the left turn, the contacts work normally, but when you turn on the right turn, instead of working normally, for some reason the contacts close and vibrate, and you hear this squeaking sound. It is necessary to open it, it can simply be replaced, or perhaps the reason is external, for example, the contact of the leg is weakened
Rotation relay #11 (unless you have the old fashioned 17.3722 mounting block)
I had to open the relay. You open it up, there is soot on the contacts, carefully sand it with fine sandpaper, lift it, put it back and it works like new again.
VAZ 2110 starter device
Such an important element in a car’s design as a starter consists of a housing with four magnets attached. The lid and body are secured with a pair of studs. The device is located on the shaft and is called an anchor. The shaft rests on two metal-ceramic bushings, which are mounted on a support with a cover.
The rotational force is transferred from the armature to the drive using a special gearbox. The gearbox is created from the main and three additional gears. The shaft is equipped with an overrunning clutch, a bendix, which supplies power from the starter to the engine, separating them.
There is a special retractor on the body that feeds the drive gears to engage the crankshaft. It starts the starter motor. During the ignition startup process, voltage is supplied to the engine.
Starter Specifications
Reasons why the starter clicks but does not turn
Often the cause is emergency or improper braking, in which the starter, which is engaged with the flywheel, receives a large current. The starter itself is a short-term electrical unit, so if it operates for a long time, it may fail, which in most cases manifests itself in the form when the starter does not turn or the starter clicks but does not turn.
In order to understand why clicks occur and there is no rotation, you need to pay attention to how the starter is designed.
The starter contains a so-called traction or, as it is also called, retractor relay, which looks like a small cylinder attached to the base of the starter. The starter relay, in turn, is equipped with a pull-in and holding winding. Failure occurs precisely at the moment when a voltage deficiency occurs on the holding winding. The task of the retracting winding is to retract the core, but it returns to its original position because the holding winding cannot hold it. This is exactly what happens when you try to start the car by turning the key in the ignition. And this phenomenon looks to us in the form of clicks, that is, when the starter clicks but does not turn.
As you already know, clicks are produced by the solenoid relay, and there may be several reasons why this happens. Here is a list of the most likely reasons why the starter does not turn, but clicks:
- Rechargeable battery (AB). Most likely, the battery is simply discharged, or is not charged enough, or the terminals have poor contact with the high-voltage wires. Charge the battery and try to start the engine again.
- Poor weight of the body and the engine. In this situation, it is recommended to take another ground wire and try again.
The starter does not turn and one distinct click is heard. In this case, I recommend checking the engine mass, as well as the fastening of the traction relay to the starter housing. The problem may be bad or burnt out contacts on the traction relay. If not, then most likely the breakdown lies in a malfunction of the starter mechanism itself, which cannot be done without completely disassembling or replacing it.
If you are convinced that the reason why the starter clicks but does not turn is the starter itself, here are a few probable reasons why this could happen:
- The power wire connecting the starter winding and the traction relay may burn out.
- Critical wear of starter brushes or bushings.
- Break in the starter winding or short circuit in the armature winding.
- Deformation or destruction of the fork in the Bendix drive.
Let's sum it up
If you notice problems with the starter, do not delay repairs, otherwise at one inopportune moment it will simply stop turning, and this, according to the “law of meanness,” will happen somewhere far from home or when you are in a hurry. The problem when the starter clicks but does not turn can be solved on your own. There are an abundance of all kinds of manuals on the Internet for repairing and replacing the starter with your own hands. However, if you are not sure, it is better to trust the professionals, so you can save your time, nerves, and sometimes money.
We are trying to make a friend without his atrium
TIP - before closing the starter, it is advisable to inspect it and make a diagnosis.
Initially, it would be good to try to find out the reasons for the failure of the starter - what if you are lucky and the problems associated with its failure can be eliminated yourself.
The most common breakdowns are the following:
- Starter relay failure.
- The solenoid relay does not operate fully.
- Severe wear on the teeth of the Bendix gear, namely, the gear rotates, but does not engage with the teeth of the engine flywheel ring.
- The stator winding in the starter burned out.
So, let’s start the “heart” of the car.
Method 1, or how to start a car from a push, or “from a pusher”?
Everything is quite simple, but at the same time very reliable. Its essence is that the driver needs to find at least a couple of people, let them be, for example, neighbors in a garage cooperative who sympathize with him. And they don’t need to be of strong build, the main thing here is the number of participants: the more, the better. The entire team (company) rests their hands on the trunk, rear pillars, etc., and begins to push the car, accelerating it. The driver, in turn, sitting behind the wheel, already with the ignition on and, better yet, with third gear engaged, as well as with the clutch depressed, after waiting for the car to accelerate, the clutch is already released. After this, the engine “sneezes” and starts. The higher the acceleration speed, the faster the engine will start.
With this method, it is important to remember that after starting the engine, the car will begin to accelerate and you must immediately depress the clutch and turn off the gear, but, of course, do not turn off the engine!
In addition, do not forget to press the brake so as not to hit the car pulling you in the rear and put your car on the handbrake, and after that you can go and unhook the cable.
Method three, or we start the engine by simply closing the starter.
In addition to the above options, the engine can be started without “violent” methods. Just need to have at least a little idea of how to close the starter directly?
Often, drivers close the starter using everything that is at hand in the car. This could be a screwdriver, a spatula, a wrench, etc.
TIP - a screwdriver will be effective if the starter relay is faulty.
This is easily recognized by the characteristic clicks coming from the engine compartment when starting the engine. This sound tells the driver: “Hey, friend, the relay is on, but the Bendix gear is not able to turn the engine crankshaft.” There is only one way out - you bridge the starter, and with this action you apply voltage to the winding.
In this case, you will need a large screwdriver, but you can use any open-end wrench. Any of these items must close the terminals of the solenoid relay and that’s it. But, do not forget, before closing the starter directly, you must:
- The ignition key must be placed in the appropriate position.
- The gear lever must be in neutral.
- The car must be put on the handbrake.
With this method, a screwdriver (wrench) plays the role of a solenoid relay and the engine of your car must start.
How much does it cost to replace a starter?
Beginning car enthusiasts often have questions after visiting a parts store.
Most often they are interested in why relays have very different prices. First of all, it is worth remembering that spare parts for the VAZ-2110 are manufactured not only by domestic factories, so you can find relays under brands such as BOSCH or Tomahawk. They are more expensive than those produced in Russia. At the same time, domestic ones have a better price-quality ratio. Brands such as VIS or Torgmash will cost you much less. If you prefer to install original components from AvtoVAZ (often in stores they are labeled “made in Tolyatti”), then the relay will cost you about 1,000 rubles, and the entire starter – 5,000. Domestic manufacturers of spare parts can offer you more budget options. The price may be half as low, but the quality is not always worthy. Imported analogues, on the contrary, are twice as expensive, so a starter from BOSCH can be found for 10 thousand rubles, a relay will cost about 2,000.
Timing belt broke
VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?
The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.
Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.
New timing belt VAZ 2110
Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.
The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.
In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.
Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN
In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.
VAZ 2115. Why do the turn signal relays and emergency lights burn out?
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You need to come here..
If one abbreviation is KZ.
why does water flow? why does the fire burn? why does the pelvis* break?
*(Tolyatti Automobile Plant)
The on-board voltage is increased, so everything is on fire, the unit (charging, stabilizer, voltage regulator) on the generator has failed, a disease of all domestic ones.
