How to correctly install the mounting bolt for the VAZ 2110 generator

Withdrawal procedure

1. First of all, remove the belt from the generator.

4. Unscrew the tension bolt.

5. Unscrew the top mount of the generator.

6.Remove the tension bar.

7. Unscrew the lower mount of the generator.

8. Remove the spacer bushing.

9. Remove the generator mounting bolt and remove it.

How to remove and replace the generator - step-by-step instructions

Owners of the Russian automobile industry often encounter problems with the operation of the generator. And what can we say about old cars, when on new cars it often fails. So, in this article we will look at how to remove the generator on VAZ 2110-2112 cars.

It is better to do the work in a viewing hole.

Work progress:

1. The first thing to do is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery so as not to short-circuit anything.

Next, you need to remove the engine splash guard (read about how to remove it here) Disconnect the generator excitation wire, as shown in the figure

Take a 10mm wrench and unscrew the nut securing the wires to the positive drive of the generator and remove both wires

After this, you need to remove the alternator belt (read here how to remove the alternator belt)

Next, take a 10mm spanner and unscrew the alternator adjusting bolt, then remove it from the top bracket. Removing the tension bar

Take a 13mm wrench and unscrew the nut of the lower mounting of the generator and remove the bolt (as shown in the pictures), holding the generator

After this you can remove the generator itself

Install and replace the generator in the reverse order.

Video on replacing the generator:

One of the most important mechanisms in the design of a car is the generator. Regardless of the country of manufacture, these devices are used on all car models. For reliable fixation, for example in VAZ 2110 cars, special generator mounting bolts are responsible.

Dismantling and assembling the generator of a VAZ 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110, Kalina 1118 car

Restoring a generator is a rather complex process. The difficulty lies in the fact that not every motorist can understand the work scheme.

The best option would be to replace the failed device. This is the only way to get rid of problems in the operation of the autonomous battery charging system. However, on the VAZ 2107 and other models, motorists are in no hurry to change generators. The reason is the high cost of new devices. It is easier for drivers to pay specialists for repairs or restore the generator themselves.

The repair process consists of several steps that must be performed sequentially. Only following a certain procedure will allow you to restore the mechanism correctly.

Replacement of brushes, as well as other small structural parts, must be done in a workshop. If the use of specialized equipment is not possible, repairs in garage conditions will be much more difficult.

• It is necessary to unscrew the armature shaft nut. For convenience, you can fix the shaft with a bar wrench. The nut in this position can only be unscrewed with an open-end wrench.
• Once the nut is unscrewed, you need to pull the drive pulley off the axle.
• The segment key is removed from the axle.
• After this, they begin to dismantle the brush holder and voltage regulator. To do this you will need to unscrew the fasteners.
• It is recommended to mark the position of the bearing holder on the reverse side and then unscrew the fastening hardware. As a result of these manipulations, it will be possible to separate the front cover from the back.
• When using a specialized puller, you must follow the order in which the grips are installed - they are inserted under the holder plate.
• The internal screws are removed if the bearing needs to be removed from the shield.
• Press out the bearing.
• Unsolder a special holder for the diode assembly. For safety and convenience, it is better to hold the wires in the area between the soldering iron and the stator using pliers.
• Remove the rectifier diodes.

Checking the brushes is quite simple. You need to make sure that there is contact with the slip rings. After this, you need to check the movement of the brushes in the guides. If problems are detected in the operation of this mechanism, cleaning of the fasteners is required.

The protrusion of the brushes must be at least 0.5 mm. If this value is less, the brushes urgently need to be replaced.

It is also necessary to check the operation of the rotor and stator. The first element is checked for contamination. If dirt is detected, the oily parts are wiped with solvent. If various scratches appear on the product, you can polish the surface with polishing paste.

The winding is checked with an ohmmeter by connecting two contacts to the rings. The optimal range is 3.4 - 3.7 Ohms.

The stator on Kalina and other models is also easy to check. If the assembly overheats, it means there is a short circuit in the windings. In this case, one probe is applied to the plate-type rings, and the second one in turn to the stator wires.

For assembly, use the reverse order of the disassembly shown. During installation, you must carefully monitor the correct location of all parts.

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The need to repair a generator unit may arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are failed brushes or bearings. Read below about repairing these components.

Brush replacement procedure

VAZ is produced as follows:

1. First of all, you need to release the three latches on the device’s body, on its sides. These latches secure the cover to the mechanism.
2. The cover itself can be detached and put aside. This will allow you to access the regulator.
3. There are two bolts on the regulator that secure the device - they need to be unscrewed. Then pull the regulator and remove it.
4. Assess the condition of the brushes - if they are working, then the length of these elements should be at least 0.5 cm. If their size is smaller, then you have two options - either repair it by replacing the brushes, or change the device assembly. If repairs are being made, you will need a soldering iron since the brush assembly is soldered to the relay. First, you need to unsolder the wires connected to the brushes, and then dismantle the assembly, replacing it with a new one and securely soldering it to the relay contacts. Or you simply change the relay, and further assemble the device in the reverse order (the author of the video is the IZO channel)))LENTA).

How to change bearings yourself?

To replace the bearings, follow these steps:

1. On the dismantled generator, you need to block the rotor; to do this, use a screwdriver, then unscrew the pulley.
2. Next, by pulling the latches, you need to remove the device casing. You need to make marks on the two halves of the case, and then, using a screwdriver, you will need to remove the front cover.
3. Then you will need to knock the bearing out of its seat; to do this, you will need to place it on a more suitable object. Alternatively, you can use a 27mm socket.
4. After this, you can take a new bearing device and fill it with grease. This element should be hammered through the old one. To make the device more securely fixed at the installation site, you can use a chisel to flare the edges.
5. Now let's move on to the rear bearing. To do this, you need to place either a thick screwdriver or a thin chisel under it, and hit the top several times with a hammer, while simultaneously moving the screwdriver in the opposite direction. The device can be dismantled using an open-end wrench.

Installing a generator on a VAZ

The installation process deserves attention, since this step can be called one of the most critical stages of repair. The quality of the generator will depend on the correct installation.

• When lifting the generator to the engine, it is necessary to put the device on the mounting location. Special brackets are often located on the engine. It is to them that the installation is carried out.
• Support the fixture and install the lower mounting bolt for the generator.
• When installing special hardware, you must remember that there is a washer.
• After this, you need to put the wires on the stator winding plug and on the brush holder output.
• Screw the nut securing the wires to the generator connection point.
• Put on a protective cap.
• Put on the washer and screw the nut to the tension bar that secures the device.
• Place the belt on the generator and pump pulleys.
• Tighten the drive belt tensioners.
• Strengthen the tightening at the point where the generator is fixed to the tensioner bar.
• Install the dirt shield.

Detailed review of alternator replacement:

Operating principle of generator 2110

When the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the mounting block (see generator connection diagram on this page). From there, the current goes to the instrument panel and lights up the warning light, confirming that electricity is supplied to the generator. Next, the voltage is supplied to contact D of the generator. From it, through brushes, it is supplied to the rotor slip rings and then to the excitation winding located under the beak-shaped pole pieces. Here the electric current induces a magnetic field. An alternating electric current arises from the magnetic field in the stator windings. This alternating current is supplied to the rectifier unit. In the rectifier unit, undergoing separation into positive and negative charges, voltage (“+”) is supplied to contact B+ and then to electricity consumers. The negative charge from the negative diodes goes to ground and to the “-” contact of the battery. From the stator, through additional diodes, “+” is supplied to the rotor excitation winding and will then maintain inductance in it during the entire rotation of the generator. From additional diodes, plus is simultaneously supplied to the signal light. But when it hits the negative diode, it does not pass through to the light bulb and it goes out. This means the generator began to generate voltage and supply it to the entire car. When the engine is triggered, the generator begins to operate, which begins to provide itself and all consumers with electric direct current.

Useful! VAZ VAZ 2110 diagram

Generator mounting bolt on Oka

On the Oka and many VAZ models, the lower fastening is additionally tightened. For this, an M8 × 1.25 × 16 bolt is used. Parts can be adjusted at any time without fear of the threads being damaged. The main thing is to give preference to high-quality fasteners.

Thus, it is possible to carry out maintenance of the generator yourself. To do this, you will need to read the step-by-step dismantling instructions. In some cases, generator parts can be repaired without completely unscrewing the mounting bolt. However, such work will take more time.

The best option is to remove the device, which will allow you to easily replace the brushes. Also important is the restoration of the voltage regulator - the main element of the generator. To check the voltage regulator, use a charger or an regulated power supply.

Hello to all those celebrating ( : ! Congratulations on the upcoming eN Ge on the 14th ( : ! I decided to write what I did not have time to write that year. There will be many letters ( : ! Gennady began to show signs of his ill health at the end of summer, this was manifested in in the form of the rustling of the bearings. The bearings were bought and were waiting in the wings, but with the repair I took more and more time. As they say, until the roast rooster pecks, the man can’t cross himself! And because of my laziness, for the most part, I missed this moment and the crocodile said on his incomprehensible spinning shaft, something like: “Grry drty drynt squabbles and Happy New Year, please send NAFIH owner!”.

When he lived out his last days, there were the following symptoms: - very noisy and loud operation of the generator; — generator low charge, very low: 9 -11 V; — endless whistling of the belt.

The car was left for a week near the house. A little creativity in my performance (: .

During this week I removed the generator near the house, through the top, then as it turned out, I had to do all this wisely, more on that a little later. There is a service station near my house, for a hundred rubles they let me disassemble the generator using their tools, so two days passed. When I installed the bearings, it immediately became clear that everything was broken due to the bearings not being replaced in time. The play of the rotor axis along the generator was, to put it mildly, terrible. Verdict: replacement with a new generator, bearings did not help.

I started looking for Gena with a higher current output. There was no point in installing an 80-amp one, so I started looking for a 100-amp one. The search path led me to Volga Motors on Nikitina Street. There were three versions of crocodiles: Russian, Belarusian and Bulgarian, I think I don’t remember exactly, it was almost a month ago. The seller unpacked all three and after a short comparison, the choice fell on the Belarusian one, BATE 110 ampere. I liked the assembly, very high quality.

I also put the gene through up. Guys, this is a complete f*ck, put it through the top! In general, I installed almost everything and then there was a problem, the belt tension adjusting plate (let’s call it that), or rather the bolts did not want to be screwed into the block that attract this plate. What was my mistake when I removed the gene through the top. This plate had to be removed, because... According to another gene, I couldn’t pull it out through the top; I could have pulled it out through the bottom, but I have protection. The position of the car made it impossible to climb down and unscrew it. The plate was screwed onto one pin, which stuck out from the block; I could not tighten two bolts.

Everything was ready, the key to start and here it was, happiness, the car was working, the generator was delivering an excellent charge, I was pleased with the absence of any extraneous noise.

Thanks to the generator, the torque from the power plant is converted into electrical energy. During rotation, the rotor creates a magnetic flux, which is regulated by a relay, and the pulley carries out a belt drive. The rotor moves with the help of bearings, and when they work well, the shaft moves easily.

Another purpose of the relay regulator is to limit the output voltage in the range from 13.6 to 14.7 V. The voltage is transmitted through the commutator rings to the brushes, and the rectifier bridge is responsible for ensuring that energy is transferred in one direction.

Technical specifications

Setting timing marks on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 with your own hands

If the old generator fails, many motorists wonder which generator they should now replace the old one with.

There is no need to invent anything here. The most correct solution is to install the same generator as before, or a more powerful one.

Today, the VAZ 2110 provides for the use of three types of power supply devices:

1. Katek 5102.3771. The generator produces 80 Ampere power and its voltage is approximately 14V.
2. Katek 94.3701. This is a device with the same parameters. They are not seriously different.
3. Catek 120 amp. A generator that is more adapted to modern realities, when in addition to standard electrical equipment, motorists install many additional devices.

If you have a powerful audio system in your car, you use an electric pump powered by the car, as well as a number of other additional consumers, it is recommended to install a 120-amp unit instead of a standard 80-amp generator.

If we take into account the size of the devices, then we can distinguish between ordinary and compact ones. They have a certain difference in design

To be specific, the differences are in the following components:

• Brackets;
• Anchor;
• Excitation wire;
• Drive pulley;
• Number of mounting bolts.

But in reality this does not play a special role. After all, the structure of all generators used for the VAZ 2110 is the same. Therefore, let's look at the circuit and structure of this unit.

The presented device is relevant for all generators used on the VAZ 2110, regardless of their power - 80-120 Amperes.

Margin of safety

If we take into account the standard Katek generator, which is installed on domestic dozens, then its resource is enough for about 10 years of operation or 140 thousand kilometers. The specified safety margin of the device can only be relied upon if it is handled properly

The specified safety margin of the device can only be relied upon if it is handled properly.

Many people fear that a powerful 120 A generator can negatively affect the condition of the battery. In practice, nothing like this happens. Moreover, installing a more powerful unit is recommended if you plan to install an impressive audio system or video equipment on the car.

Necessary parts and tools for repair

Troubleshooting the cylinder head begins with the purchase of original parts and various consumables, the list of which is as follows:

Fuel intake system valve 8 pcs. (art. 21120-1007010).

Exhaust gas valve 8 pcs. (art. 21120-1007012).

Installation of valves on a VAZ 2112 is carried out using a standard set of tools, as well as several specialized types of keys:

• standard set of spanners from 8 to 24 mm;
• socket sockets in a set from 8 to 27 mm;
• end internal hexagons;
• mechanical valve retaining ring remover (depressurizer);
• torque wrench for tightening the cylinder head and camshaft bolts;
• paste for grinding valves (set for rough and fine grinding);
• metalworking cloth gloves to protect hands while working.

The work of replacing 16 valves on a VAZ 2112, the price of which as of this fall is about 50 thousand rubles at AvtoVAZ dealerships (or approximately 35-40 thousand rubles at ordinary car repair shops), is not a very complicated process. You can carry out the work yourself, for which it is enough to purchase the above-described spare parts and the necessary tools.

What types of breakdowns are common?

Most often, the generator for 8 and 16 valve VAZ-2110s fails as a result of moisture and dirt. Another reason is the wear of the components of this assembly, namely the brushes. Most often, the malfunction manifests itself as follows:

• the generator does not produce electricity;
• output current is either too high or low voltage;
• During engine operation, extraneous sounds are heard, most often a squeak or squeal.

The operation of the generator is checked using special stands or a digital voltmeter. If extraneous sounds are heard in the engine compartment area, then first of all you need to check the timing belt tension. Most often this is the reason, but after checking, remove the belt from the pulley and start the engine. The absence of noise is a reason to check the performance of the generator more carefully.

Examination

Why doesn't the instrument panel work on the 16 valve VAZ-2112?
It happens that the generator begins to act up ahead of schedule and the battery does not charge properly. Actually, it serves to ensure the operation of the source of electricity to power all cars - the battery.

We advise you to rely not only on our instructions, but also on video lessons that will allow you to carry out repairs and replacements with your own hands, even without much experience.

Troubleshooting

The first step is to determine whether your generator is actually the source of the problem. To check, you need to carry out a series of sequential activities.

1. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature.
2. Increase the crankshaft speed to approximately 3 thousand rpm.
3. Turn on all the headlights, activate the high beams, start the heater, emergency lights, heated glass, and wiper blades. That is, all electricity consumers should be turned on as much as possible.
4. Measure the voltage on the battery.
5. If the device shows less than 13V, then a short circuit or break has most likely occurred in the generator windings.
6. Another option is a breakdown of the voltage regulator, oxidation of the contacts of the excitation winding ring.

You can check for breaks and the condition of other elements of the generator only by dismantling it. But if you don’t have any experience in disassembling a generator, then you shouldn’t try to go there with your own hands. Replace the entire assembly or entrust the repair to professionals.

Where is the generator for 2110 located?

The VAZ 2110 generator is located in the engine compartment on the left side (located closer to the engine cooling radiator).

You can also notice that the engine crankshaft is connected to the generator using a belt. Let us add that the generator on the VAZ 2112 is located by analogy with the “ten”.

In terms of operation, the installation location is not the best, however, the location of the generator is quite convenient for servicing or removing the device. In practice, before dismantling, it is advisable to treat the generator mounting with a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40).

How to properly remove the generator on a VAZ-2110

If you have a power unit with 8 valves, then it is best to work from above. In the sixteen-valve version, the generator must be removed from below. To do this, first unscrew the pan. Before work, prepare several different keys. You can remove this assembly quickly if you follow the following instructions:

1. De-energize the vehicle's on-board system - to do this, simply remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Find the M10 nut on the positive stud of the autogenerator and unscrew it.
3. There are wires connected to the generator on the back of the device, which must be disconnected before the next stage of disassembly.
4. Using a 13mm wrench, loosen the upper and lower nuts.
5. Unscrew the tension bolt with a 10mm wrench to loosen the belt tension and remove it.
6. Then completely remove both nuts (upper and lower) and remove the tension bar.
7. Carefully rotate the generator at a right angle and remove it from the engine compartment.

If you want to repair this unit, you should thoroughly wipe it with a rag to remove all dirt.

Dismantling the generator with the auxiliary belt

We will talk about removing a generator with a “long” belt. Do everything the same as in step 1 (see above). Then loosen the top screw on the generator housing.

Where is the tension roller located?

Move the generator towards the engine. Loosen the belt tension by unscrewing the screw on the roller by 1-2 turns (see photo).

Before unscrewing the screw, remember what position the roller was in. A “flat” tuning key will help.

Special wrench for tension rollers

The belt must be removed from the pulleys. Then unscrew the fasteners (two screws) and completely remove the generator.

All generator mounting elements

The nuts must be held with a “13” wrench.

During installation, the tension roller is set to its original position. If the belt is not replaced, this option will be correct.

Installation of the generator with subsequent adjustment

When installing a generator on a VAZ 2109 (no matter the injector or carburetor) and other models, be sure to check whether the purchased clamps, bolts and nuts fit the installation locations. Also, we must not forget that the mounting holes on old-style electric generators are different from new ones. Therefore, when installing a modern autogenerator on front-wheel drive models of the first generations (08, 09, 99), you should purchase the appropriate fasteners.

The generator mounting mount cannot be taken from Grants or Prioras. You can take a new potassium generator and no additional modifications will be required, but the mounting plates must be type 21082. In addition, you will need to purchase a pulley 2110 and a tensioner type 21082.

The installation process is identical to the removal process. If the standard strips are worn out, they are replaced with new ones; this will require unscrewing several bolts and installing new strips.

When installing the electric generator, start from the bottom fastening plate, tighten (but not completely) the fixing bolt (do not forget to put the bushing), put the belt on the pulley and move to the top. To fix the generator, install the top fastening, but do not screw it all the way. Then the tension bar is inserted. Then tighten the tension bolt, checking the belt tension.

The belt should not bend more than 1-1.5 cm when pressed with a force of 10 kgf. It is quite difficult to maintain these indicators in garage conditions, so you should focus on the gap between the frame and the tension bolt of 15–20 mm. There should be a small gap (15–20 mm) between the tension frame and the screw (from the thread side). Then turn the engine crankshaft two turns with a wrench and monitor the position of the belt and its tension.

If, after checking the engine by turning the key, the gap changes, then the bolts securing the electric generator should be tightened. As soon as, after a control rotation of the crankshaft with a key, the gap remains the same, and the belt bends slightly when you press it, the bolts of the upper and lower fastenings are finally tightened, a control rotation of the crankshaft is performed two turns, the wires are connected to the electric generator and the engine is started.

If, when starting the engine, the belt does not make unwanted noise or whistle, and the charge level is normal, then the installation procedure was completed correctly. If a whistle appears, then most likely the belt is too tight and should be loosened.

Video about tightening and adjusting the belt:

Installation of generator from 2110 to 2109/08/99 – video:

Did you manage to solve your problem using the recommendations from the article?

No. More answers required. I'll ask in the comments now.

Partially. There are still questions. I'll write in the comments now.

How to disassemble a generator

First, make two marks on the metal covers. This will help you later assemble the unit without problems.

1. Press out the metal latches and remove the plastic cover.
2. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the voltage regulator mounting screws.
3. Unscrew the M10 nut. Then use a screwdriver to remove the screw and remove the capacitor.
4. To remove the pulley, clamp the generator housing in a vice. Put a 21 socket on the nut, and through the hole in the head put a 8 hexagon on it. Only after you unscrew the nut can you remove the washer and pulley.
5. Remove the four mounting screws to disassemble the generator into two parts.
6. From the back of the housing, unscrew the screws securing the stator wire and diode bridge.
7. Remove the diode bridge and the oscillator winding.
8. Press the rotor out of the cover with your fingers along with the bearing.
9. Carefully remove the bearing bushing.
10. Take a puller and remove the bearing.

Generator replacement and repair

Replacing the VAZ 21124 generator

As it becomes clear, there can be no talk of any normal operation of the vehicle if the generator is faulty. This part must undergo technical inspection every 15 thousand kilometers. If comments are identified at the diagnostic stage, they should be addressed urgently.

Dismantling the generator

Replace generator VAZ 2112

Removing the generator yourself is not difficult. Let's consider the algorithm of actions:

• First of all, you should disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
• We take the keys for 10 and 13.
• We find the wire that goes to the generator and disconnect it.
• We also unscrew the nut securing the wire to the positive terminal.
• Remove the output wire.
• Now you need to remove the generator tension bar.

VAZ 2112 how to remove the generator

• We find the lower mount of the generator and unscrew the nut that secures the part on this side.
• We dismantle the fastening bolt.
• We remove the generator from the VAZ 2112.
• We are making a replacement.

Note. After the generator is removed, it is usually disassembled to determine the cause of the failure.

Generator analysis

VAZ 2112 generator removal

After the generator is removed, the device is disassembled to determine the cause of the failure:

• 3 spring clips are pressed out.
• The protective casing of the generator diode bridge is removed.
• Now you should unscrew the screws securing the voltage regulator (a shaped screwdriver is best for this).
• We also disconnect the block with the wire from the output of the relay regulator.
• Let's take it off.

VAZ 2112 remove generator

• Now you need to remove the rectifier unit or, as it is also called, the diode bridge. We arm ourselves with an 8-mm spanner, a shaped screwdriver and a 10-mm wrench.
• We unscrew the three bolts connecting the terminals of the stator windings to the diode bridge.
• We bend the wires of the stator winding leads to the side.
• Unscrew the capacitor mounting screw using a shaped screwdriver.
• We remove the rectifier unit and capacitor (see Changing the capacitor (vase generator)).
• Now we unscrew the two nuts of the contact bolt, using a 10mm wrench to do this.
• We remove the bushings.
• Remove the main bolt of the rectifier unit.

Usually at this stage it is possible to find the cause of the breakdown. If not, then the analysis continues further, right up to the removal of the bearings. The instructions presented above provide a practical understanding of how to replace the generator yourself. During the process, it is recommended to study photos and video materials as visual aids. Naturally, the price of such repairs will not be high, because all the work is carried out independently.

Replacing timing belt VAZ 2110 16 valves

Replacing the VAZ 2110 timing belt 16 valves in VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112 cars. Requires regular performance. Of course, an injector with sixteen valves adds agility to our Lada and this is pleasantly pleasing. There is a fly in the ointment. The timing belt must not be allowed to break due to wear. This leads to damage to the cylinder head.

The content of the article:

How to avoid valve failure

The camshafts are stationary and at the moment when the piston approaches top dead center, the valves remain open, resulting in the piston hitting the open valves, which leads to the valves bending and in some cases destroying the seats and guides. Repairs are of course expensive.

This can be avoided by installing pistons in the engine with recesses for the valves, such as in the photo. It is not advisable to replace this on purpose, since engines have a significant service life, and there is no point in disassembling a working engine. Therefore, it is easier and cheaper to simply change the timing belt in a timely manner, especially since it does not require extensive experience in locksmith work and deep knowledge in the field of car repair, but just attentiveness and knowledge of some of the nuances when installing the belt itself.

Disassembling the timing belt

Where to start replacing the belt. First, you need to remove the alternator belt drive pulley. It’s convenient to do this if you remove the right front wheel and the protective cover, if you still have one. The pulley mounting bolt must be unscrewed. Then remove the timing belt protection covers and the mechanism before your eyes. The nuts securing the tension rollers must be unscrewed so that when replacing the belt, the rollers can also be changed, and remove the rollers, then remove the belt itself

Replacement process detailed instructions

We will look at options with 8- and 16-valve engines, which are present in the VAZ 2112 and 2110 models. Regardless of the number of valves, the same set of tools will be required for replacement. The list includes standard tools that can be found in almost every driver's garage.

Timing belt for VAZ 2110 16 valves

In addition to the timing belt itself and the roller for the VAZ 2110 or 2112, you will need:

• a special key that regulates the degree of tension of the roller;
• spanner set to “17”;
• key to “15”;
• key to “10”;
• installation, as an alternative - a powerful screwdriver.

Replacement on an 8-valve engine

Replacing the VAZ 2110 8 valve timing belt is as follows:

1. First of all, we de-energize the battery - for this you need to get the negative wire;
2. We unscrew the bolts that hold the timing belt protective casing, and then remove the casing;
3. On the passenger side, it is necessary to remove the engine compartment mudguard along with the protective element and the right wheel;
4. Our task is to ensure that the marks on the cover and, accordingly, on the pulley match, as indicated in all the diagrams. To do this, you need to twist the part clockwise;
5. We go to the gearbox and remove the plug from it;
6. We need to check the alignment of the marks in this hole;
7. We block the flywheel - for this you can use a mounting tool or a powerful screwdriver;
8. Now you can remove the timing generator pulley;
9. We got to the nut that holds the timing belt pulley - it needs to be loosened, but not unscrewed;
10. Now we have reached the required element of the VAZ 2110 or 2112 timing belt. Now it can be removed. All parts that it covered must be cleaned with detergent. After removing dirt, the area should be wiped with a clean rag;
11. Next, a new timing belt and tensioner roller are installed - follow the direction indicated on the arrow. Sometimes it happens that the manufacturer does not indicate the arrows, in which case, you need to place the element so that the inscription is read from left to right;
12. To tension, you need to turn the roller counterclockwise.
13. The next step is to test the timing belt and its tension. You need to check the element with a cold engine, and the temperature in the garage or box should be within +15-+30C. We start the engine and inspect the timing belt.

If there are no unnecessary sounds or vibrations, then all the elements can be installed back - these are the wheel, casing and mudguard.

Replacement on a 16-valve engine

Despite the fact that there are more valves, replacing the timing belt is no more difficult than on the version with 8 valves. So, replacing the VAZ 2110 16 valve timing belt is performed as follows:

1. As in the case of the VAZ 2110 or 2112, where there are 8 valves, we need to dismantle the belt protection. It is held in place by 6 bolts.
2. Next, you need to remove the chip from the crankshaft sensor - unscrew the mount and take out the sensor itself. For clarity, you can study the photo.
3. If you dismantle the gas distribution mechanism yourself, then you probably noticed the absence of one tooth. This is done so that the sensor can independently find the dead center. This feature can also be used to lock the crankshaft.
4. Blocking can be done when a tube of a suitable size is placed in the hole under the sensor. Now the pulley is blocked, as a result, it can be safely dismantled.
5. Next, the work scheme is practically no different from removing the 8-valve timing mechanism with your own hands - loosen the roller fastening and remove the faulty or worn belt.
6. There are two ways to install a new element: remove the tension roller and then install the belt along with it, or do it by turning the camshaft.
7. When the new element is installed, you can return everything to its original position. You should start by fastening the pulley - tighten the bolt and align the gear - the marks on the oil pump will help with this. If they are missing, then you can make a mark yourself.
8. The parts must be combined carefully, since the timing gear should not get knocked out.
9. Using a special wrench, we must tighten the belt. Not everyone has such a wrench, but as an alternative you can always take a powerful screwdriver and two nails. It is also worth remembering the nut, which must be tightened tightly.
10. We check the tension; the rubber should move away from the gears, but there should be no folds.
11. All that remains is to turn the crankshaft 2 times and make sure that the marks remain in the same place - the work is completed

Check the gas distribution mechanism every 10 thousand kilometers, and then you will not have to spend money on expensive repairs.

Malfunctions of the VAZ-2110 generator

Now let’s look at the breakdowns of the “tens” generator, which car owners have to deal with most often. These include:

• incorrect tension of the drive belt;
• bearing wear;
• failure of the rectifier unit;
• malfunction of the voltage regulator relay;
• break (short circuit) of the rotor or stator windings.

Let's look at each of the faults in detail separately.

How to properly maintain and repair a generator on a VAZ 2112 on your own?

In a VAZ 2112 car, the generator is designed to power electrical equipment when the engine is running. If this unit fails, full operation of the car will be impossible, so the driver may encounter certain difficulties while driving. You can read more about the principle of operation, as well as the replacement of some elements of this unit, below.

Technical characteristics and principle of operation of the generator set on the Dvenashka

First, let's look at the operating principle of the 2112 generator. One of the main design elements is the rotor, which performs the function of generating a magnetic field. This component is a shaft on which the field winding is mounted. The halves of this winding are installed in special pole parts, and the winding is supplied with current thanks to slip rings. The rotor rotates thanks to a belt drive from the drive.

Removing the Unit Cover

Another equally important component is the stator, consisting of a core and a winding. This mechanism produces alternating current that passes through the electrical network through slip rings. To supply current to the rings, the design of the unit is supplemented with special brushes. After them, according to the scheme, a rectifier unit is installed, which is used to convert the voltage that the device produces. Depending on the device model and its technical features, different winding connection diagrams can be used.

The generator unit relay is used to maintain the voltage within specified limits. This element, if necessary, changes the frequency and duration of electrical pulses. By design, a relay consists of several controllers, as well as executive components. The purpose of these components is to determine the time during which the field winding must be connected to the network. If the relay fails, an unstable voltage will be supplied to the battery.

As for the technical characteristics of the generator on the VAZ 3701010-07, the voltage limits generated in the winding are 13.2-14.7 volts. The unit itself allows you to generate current up to 80 amperes. It is important that the VAZ generator belt is tensioned properly, otherwise the operation of the device as a whole may be incorrect. If you want to check the belt tension with your own hands, then keep in mind that when there is pressure on it with a mass of about 10 kilograms, the deflection of the belt should be at least 8 mm (the author of the video is the channel In Sandro’s Garage).

Service Features

The need to repair the generator unit on a VAZ 2112 16 valves does not arise often, but in order for the unit not to have to be repaired, it must be properly maintained. In general, this unit has a fairly high margin of reliability.

What maintenance features must be observed to prevent repairs:

1. It must be remembered that the outer surfaces of the unit must always be clean.
2. When carrying out maintenance, you also need to check the quality of fastening of the unit - it must be securely fixed at the installation site.
3. It would be a good idea to check the functionality of the voltage regulator; a multimeter is used for this.
4. The same applies to belt diagnostics. As stated above, first of all you need to check its tension - the belt should not be too tight, but it should also not be loosened. In addition, diagnostics of the condition of the strap should be carried out every 10 thousand km - there should be no signs of damage, cracks, and the belt should not peel off.
5. Another point in maintenance is checking the condition of the bearings. For diagnostics, you need to remove the strap, and the rotor of the unit must be rotated by hand. If during rotation you feel a gap or even slight jamming, then the bearing devices need to be changed. The same applies to the appearance of sounds uncharacteristic of their normal operation.

Photo gallery “Main device malfunctions”

1. New and worn brushes 2. Bearings with frozen grease 3. Worn belt

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The need to repair a generator unit may arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are failed brushes or bearings. Read below about repairing these components.

There is bearing noise when the engine is running, from the side of the generator and the timing belt, in order to accurately understand whether it is the generator or the tension roller, you need to remove the generator belt and start the engine, if the sound remains, we change the rollers, and if the sound disappears, we proceed to replacing the generator bearings. Loosen the generator mounting nut and the adjusting bolt. We remove the generator belt and start the engine; if the bearing noise disappears, we continue disassembling. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and disconnect the wires from the generator. We unscrew the front part of the crankcase protection, unscrew the lower mount of the generator. We remove the generator through the bottom. Carefully block the generator rotor with a screwdriver and unscrew the pulley. Pull back the latches and remove the casing.

We unscrew the brushes and four bolts of the generator halves. We make marks on the two halves and use a screwdriver to remove the back cover. Screw the nut onto the rotor thread. The easiest way is to remove the rotor from the front cover bearing, grab the ears of the generator front cover with both hands and tap the nut on a piece of wood. We place a suitable object on the bearing, in my case a 27mm head, and knock it out. Carefully open the new bearings and fill them with grease. We drive the new bearing through the old one. To securely fix the bearing in the cover, use a core or chisel to flare the edges. We are replacing the rear bearing of the generator. We place a thin chisel, a thick screwdriver or something like that under the bearing and hit it with a hammer from above, moving the chisel in the opposite direction.

Generator

In order to disassemble machine parts yourself, you need to know what they are intended for. So, a generator is a structure that is designed to provide electricity to all parts by converting mechanical energy into current. That is, the battery is charged while the engine is running.

Brief information:

• the generator is located in front of the engine;
• With the help of the crankshaft, work begins.

Today there are two types of devices: compact and traditional. There are significant differences between them, for example, different fan layout, type of case, etc. But the basic details remain the same. Therefore, if the car owner has at least once figured out the details on his own, then when disassembling devices of another type he will be able to easily work. Components: rotor, brush assembly, stator, rectifier unit.

Mounting the generator on a VAZ 2112

VAZ 2112, mounting the generator should not be difficult, since in almost all brands of domestic cars the installation is similar. But in order for the work done with your own hands not to cause dissatisfaction, you need to remember all the nuances.

1. Before attaching the generator to the VAZ 21124, you need to make sure that the negative terminal of the battery has been disconnected. This is one of the important points in the work, since otherwise a short circuit may occur.
2. Next, you need to position the generator correctly, while holding it constantly. Using wrench No. 13, tighten the bolts as shown in the photo below.
3. Install the tension bar.
4. Using a special socket wrench No. 10, tighten the adjusting bolt in the upper bracket.
5. Correctly tension the alternator belt to avoid future breakdowns.
6. Using a No. 10 wrench, screw the nut intended for fastening the wires to the generator drive with positive polarity. Thus, both wires are installed.
7. Connect the device excitation wire.
8. Install the engine splash guard.
9. Connect the negative terminal to resume operation. After complete installation, it is better to check the generator drive belt; you need to adjust the tension.

The fastening process is preceded by the removal of the device, identification of the breakdown, and subsequent repairs. In order to remove the structure, you need to perform the steps in the reverse order.

The machine cannot continue to operate if there are problems with the generator. It is necessary to check the device after a run of 15,000 km. Diagnostics determines the condition and if there are any malfunctions, it is necessary to urgently correct the situation without delay. Repair always includes disassembling the part. For this, keys No. 10, 13 are used. Most often, the reason is determined at the stage of demonstrating the main bolt of the rectifier block. If the breakdown could not be determined, you need to continue the analysis to the end.

Possible negative consequences

There are a number of consequences that can occur when installing a generator in a bottom bracket. For example, because of the bushing, the entire structure is difficult to fit in; the belt is tensioned only after a special tension bolt has been tightened using a No. 10 wrench. The nuts (No. 13) must be tightened after checking the belt, and its tension must also occur while tightening the nuts located on top.

In the event that the structure was tightened much more than required, rapid wear of parts (such as a belt, pulley, bearings) will occur, and, consequently, an early breakdown. A weak tension will lead to damage to spare parts, a peculiar whistle during operation, the inability to charge the battery and subsequently, to its replacement.

Correct belt adjustment

In order for the generator to serve for a long time, it is necessary to determine the position of the belt.

1. The part should bend slightly - approximately 10 mm, during a force of 10 kgf between the device and the crankshaft pulleys. If the number is different, it is better to make the adjustment immediately. First of all, you need to loosen the nuts of the upper as well as the lower generator.
2. Then place the entire structure on the cylinder block, turning from right to left (so that the belt is noticeably released). Therefore, in order to tighten, you need to do the steps in the opposite direction - move the device away from the cylinder, turn the bolt from left to right, that is, clockwise.
3. Using a wrench, turn the crankshaft clockwise two times using the pulley bolt.
4. Next, you need to check the fastening again. If the result is bad, it is better to repeat the steps immediately.
5. Tighten the remaining two nuts.

There is also a second option for checking. It is more convenient and better to carry out work at the bottom of the car, but to do this you need to remove the right front wheel. When replacing or removing the belt, loosen the tension of the nuts in the lower and upper parts. The bolt intended for adjustment is turned out to the maximum value, the generator is moved towards the cylinder block and the belt is removed. After inspecting the existing belt, you can begin installing a new one. Initially, it is better to put on its crankshaft pulley, and then the generator itself.

Replacing the generator on VAZ 2110-2112 and 2114-2115

You can remove the bearing with a large open-end wrench, using it as a lever. Drive a new bearing through the old bearing and head 27, or you can use a piece of tube or a tubular wrench to press in a bearing of a suitable diameter. The generator bearings have been replaced and assembly can begin. Assembly must begin with the front cover of the generator, and then proceed in the reverse order of disassembly. Replacing generator bearings for VAZ 2111 and VAZ 2112 is similar. Often, many VAZ 2110-2112 car owners are in too much of a hurry at the first generator malfunction and prefer to replace it with a new one, instead of simply finding out the cause of the breakdown and eliminating it.

In this case, we will not consider repairing this device, but will only look at the procedure that must be performed to remove and install the unit. So, in order to dismantle it without problems, we will need a tool such as: Especially for this post, I decided to make a video instruction to explain everything clearly and clearly. If you have any questions about the video review, you can ask them on my YouTube channel. Below will be presented everything in the usual format. I would like to warn you right away that in this example of my VAZ 2110, the generator is slightly clamped by the mounting bracket, since it broke off during the accident, so I cannot show you the removal procedure in all its details. But still, the main points will be shown quite clearly in the photo.

We unscrew the tensioner nut, which is shown by the arrow below: After this, move the generator back (towards the car interior) and remove the belt from the pulleys. PNow you can disconnect all power cords. One bundle is attached using a pin and a nut, and another plug is simply fixed with a connector: Then you can unscrew the lower nut securing the generator, first crawl under the car and remove the engine protection (if installed): Usually the bolt sits tightly, so you can carefully and without excessive force, knock it out with the handle of a hammer: Next, unscrew the tensioner nut from top to bottom and you can carefully move the VAZ 2110 generator to the side in order to remove it later: If you change the device assembly, then install it in the reverse order.

Replacing the generator with power steering, eliminating noise

There was a very strange knocking sound from the engine, when you accelerate and let off the gas there is a knocking sound from the area of ​​the generator and the steering wheel... I struggled with this for a long time, but not very successfully, in order: - the fault was on the belt roller, well, it was a little sensitive and not everything was going well with it okay, I was looking for a roller without play for a long time, but I found it and installed it, it didn’t help with the main knock; -removing the engine and power steering belt and starting the car, the knocking noise disappeared completely, well, for a long time I sinned on the power steering pump, then I replaced it, and it seemed to be better, but after some time this knocking noise came again (((... - I thought, what if it’s a generator It’s noisy, and the voltage was low when you turn everything on to 12V. I went to remove it and look, and then it started... Removing the gene on a car with power steering is another quest... I decided to remove it through the headlight, since it’s not possible to pull the receiver out through the top, but through the bottom, the pump Power steering, removing the pump means draining the oil, and then also pumping it... so it’s easier through the headlight, especially since I also changed the headlights)))

It fits through the headlight just fine, removing the headlight is not difficult))

And so, having removed the generator, I twirled it in my hands and realized that its bearings were running out...

burnt contact, apparently he was punished well at one time)

The contact from the winding is a little burnt, a stub from it remains, the bearings are damaged, the voltage sags, so I bought a new one then)))

dynamo

Dynamo 105A when the old one had 80 Next is the most interesting thing, the secret of the ominous noise is revealed...

bottom of generator mount

and this is the top part of the generator mount

that’s the reason for the noise, a mount broken in two was knocking on another engine mount.

I’ll say right away that finding a new bracket for an engine with power steering was not easy; I never found one in Bryansk! It is attached to the same bolts as the engine mount, but in order to screw it on I had to remove the pump; I removed it directly without twisting the tubes from it, but simply lowering it to the bottom)

The bottom bolt can only be tightened by removing the power steering pump

new generator next to the old one

The new one looks impressive, it has one more winding contact, the regulator is more massive, the voltage on board is 14.2 V and does not consistently respond to the heater and low beams)))) if you turn on everything you can, these are high beams, heated mirrors, emergency lights , heater, reverse, brake light...

The result is I'm happy, there is no noise, the voltage is normal, everything is fine))

• Generator 3800
• Bracket 560

Replacing a standard 55A generator (2108-99, carburetor) with an 80A generator (2110-70, injector)

But please note that the generator model, if possible, should be the same as the one installed by the factory. That is, first of all, look at the applicability specifically to your car, and then at the current rating in Amperes. As for the price of generators for VAZ 2110-2112, it may vary depending on the type and manufacturer. But if you take the KZATE model, which in most cases is installed by the factory, then the cost can be about 3,500 rubles. Although, Chinese options can be obtained at almost half the price. True, you should not chase low cost, since the service life of these parts can be quite short.

Choosing a new generator

Despite the similarity of generators produced by different manufacturers, it is necessary to take into account a number of important factors. The main arguments are the number of consumers, generation, and vehicle equipment. You should pay attention to the trade article, rated power, and originality of the product. It is more logical to provide a power reserve. Any device that does not operate at maximum loads will live longer. We should not forget about the wire cross-section and battery capacity. An increase in power entails an increase in current loads and overheating of the wiring. When choosing a new generator, you have to search for the golden mean. If energy consumption has not increased, additional consumers have not been connected, it is more correct to look for an analogue of the factory generator according to the article number.