Repair of Priora ignition coil 16 valves. a practical guide to diagnosing the ignition coil on a Priora

May 16, 2018 Lada.Online 53 222 0
According to the technical maintenance regulations for LADA cars, spark plugs are changed every 30,000 km. Depending on the engine, replacing the spark plugs will require removing high-voltage wires or individual ignition coils (ICO). Let's look at this process in detail.

On cars Lada Vesta, XRAY, Largus, Priora, Granta, Kalina, Lada 4×4) all actions are performed in the same way.

Tip repair

A cracked ignition coil tip is a common problem.
However, you can return the coil to working condition by making repairs on your own, provided that the coil itself has not burned out. This will require a degreasing wipe, a silicone ignition coil O-ring (new), a new tip and silicone sealant. The whole procedure will take a couple of minutes. With numerous and sometimes even minor misfires, the engine may operate unstably, floating speeds will appear, the car may jerk while driving, etc. To determine which cylinder is faulty, it is necessary to alternately remove the coil power plug from each of them, or rather, disconnect it for a while.

If, if one of the cylinders is disconnected, interruptions in operation are still present, then this is where the reason lies. Often, it is the ignition coil of one of the cylinders that leads to the consequences described above. And to replace it, you will need the following tool:

10 mm head
Extension
Ratchet or small wrench

Checking the ignition coil with a multimeter

Checking the serviceability of the ignition coil
Checking the voltage at the terminal of the wire block:

Disconnect the block with wires from the ignition coil (on the H4M engine, to access the coils of cylinders 1 and 2, remove the intake pipe).
Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage at terminal 3 of the wiring harness block (the numbering of the terminals is on the ignition coil).
The voltage at the terminal must be at least 12 V. If it is less or absent, it means the battery is discharged, there is a fault in the power circuit, or the engine control unit (ECU) is faulty.
Turn off the ignition.

How to check ignition coil resistance:

We set the switch on the multimeter to the 200 Ohm position and close the probes (the instrument error will be displayed on the screen, which will need to be subtracted from the readings during testing).
We check the primary winding of the ignition coil by connecting the probes of the device to the contacts.
The resistance between pins 1 and 3 should be close to zero (about 1 ohm).
The resistance between pins 1-2 and 2-3 should be high (tend to infinity).

Set the switch on the multimeter to the 2000 kOhm (or 2 MOhm) position.
We check the secondary winding of the coil by connecting the red probe to the spring inside the rubber cap, and the black probe to pin 2.
For good contact, it is best to remove the rubber cap from the coil and connect the probe directly to the coil contact, having first cleaned it of deposits.
The resistance should be about 300-400 kOhm.

Attention! The resistance of the secondary winding of the ignition coil is highly dependent on its temperature. Carry out the test when the coil is completely cool

Compare the resistance of all four ignition coils to each other. A faulty ignition coil can be identified by very different values, provided that all coils are from the same manufacturer.

The process is also shown in the video:

Checking the ignition coil yourself. Video instruction ZR:

The simplest way to check the ignition coils is to swap them. If misfires change the cylinder, then this coil is not working. To more accurately determine the fault, special equipment should be used (for example, a spark gap or an oscilloscope).

Let us remind you that you can find a problem in engine operation by independently measuring the pressure in the fuel rail, or by checking the compression in the cylinders.

Any modern vehicle, and the Lada Priora is no exception, consists of a body part as the main base, and a large number of power units installed on the body, together creating the individuality of each model range. Ignition is considered one of these systems. The correctness of its installation, quality level and compatibility with other objects of the machine will affect the stability of the start and the smooth operation of the motor.

Manufacturers and prices of analogues - which ignition coils are better for the Priora

No one, not even AvtoVAZ, promises that the analogue will work as long as the standard model. There are a sufficient number of options on the market. It will take quite a long time to determine which is better. The following components are suitable for Priora 16cl:

SOATE (manufactured in Stary Oskol) (article 2112-3705010-12), price – 1,200 rubles.
MZATE-2 (article 59.3705), price - 1,000 rubles.
Baker Priora 2112-3705010-10 – 1100 rubles.
Fenox IC16085 (STK) – 1,300 rubles.

The procedure for removing and installing the ignition coil on a Lada Priora car with a 16-valve engine

VAZ ignition coil connection diagram

Since the vast majority of cars are equipped with 16-valve engines, the whole process will be shown on this particular power unit.

So, first of all, open the hood of the car and disconnect the “-” terminal from the battery. Then unscrew the filler cap.

Also, disconnect the adsorber purge valve by bending its fastening clamp slightly to the side. This valve is located on the right rear side of the cover (in the direction of travel of the car).

Now you can remove the decorative engine cover, since nothing else holds it.

Using a ratchet socket, unscrew the bolt securing the coil we need, as shown in the photo below.

And then we remove this part from the spark plug well.

Since the coil sits quite tightly, you will have to apply at least medium force to remove it from there. And in order to completely release it, it is enough to disconnect the plug with the power wires, after first pressing the latch.

And disconnect it completely, as can be clearly seen in the photo below.

Now you can take a new, known-good ignition coil and install it in the reverse order. The price of a reel for Priora ranges from 900 to 2000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer.

Lada Priora has everything you need for ease of use of the car:

The ignition coil is the most important component of the car, and its failure will cause a huge amount of trouble. Mostly they will be associated with stopping and disturbances in the operation of the engine. The ignition coil is directly related to a unit called the “distributor”. This is a distributor that receives low-voltage power from the vehicle's on-board network. The process of converting low-voltage into high-voltage power occurs. From the contacts of the distributor, the voltage is sent via a “slider” through a high-voltage wire to the spark plugs. The screwed-in spark plug of each cylinder supplies a spark to the combustion chamber of the fuel mixture, and ignition occurs. For ignition, current must be supplied to all spark plugs, only then will the engine start and the car begin to move. If not, the vehicle will not move.

Sometimes the engine of a Lada Priora car starts to misfire, in other words, the engine does not perform its functions at full capacity. The reason for this behavior lies in the electric ignition coil. The ignition system of this car is unusual. Each spark plug has its own coil, therefore there are 4 of them. This means that the ignition can be slowed down four times more often than on other cars. Once one coil fails, the cylinder associated with it stops working. Individual ignition coils for any cylinder require no adjustment because they have no moving parts. In a Priora car, the ECU informs the driver about a malfunction and monitors the distribution and moment of spark formation. In the cylinders in which the compression strokes end, sparking occurs. Precise pulses are supplied to the ECU from the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, after which the control unit detects the sequential firing of the ignition coils. The information transmitted to the system allows you to manage the entire process:

If you have problems with the coils, you need to seek help from a specialist. To check the ignition coil on a Priora you need a special tool - a multimeter.

Better to play it safe

After the warranty period expires, it is advisable to replace the ignition coils (there are 4 of them on the Lada Priora car - one for each cylinder) with new ones, and, if possible, with better ones. When replacing the ignition coil yourself, you must turn off the vehicle's ground - this way, the risk of damage to the electronics is minimized.

The average resource of a high-quality ignition coil (most often imported) is about one hundred thousand kilometers.

Review of the Priora ignition coil

Checking the ignition module on a VAZ 2114: a multimeter and test to help

The ignition system is the weak point of the Priora, and not only it. The ignition coils in a Priora car are individual, one per cylinder, that is, 4 in total. It happens that one of them stops working, and along with it one of the cylinders falls out of the working rhythm. This is accompanied by vibration and strange sounds under the hood. Experienced car enthusiasts in such situations understand that the car is tripping.

Coil characteristics

Most likely, the electronics will signal a malfunction, but sometimes it is difficult to guess the causes of incomprehensible vibrations. Therefore, the first thing to do is check whether the Priora ignition coil is working

It is worth noting that even some diagnosticians do not always quickly recognize a faulty part. Therefore, car enthusiasts have found several ways to check the ignition coil without visiting a service center.

What is the coil for? To ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder, you need a high voltage current, but in a car battery it is low voltage. Thus, the ignition coil is something like a transformer, generating a current with high voltage. Its primary winding consists of only 150 turns, and in the secondary their number is much larger, which allows it to generate pulses using the spark plug as a spark gap.

Current passes through the primary winding and produces a magnetic field. When the starter opens the circuit, the energy stored in the coil is released and the cherished spark appears on the spark plug. The engine started.

To make the magnetic field as strong as possible, an iron core is located inside the coil.

The main characteristic of a coil is the resistance value of its windings, which is taken into account when diagnosing ignition. Failure of such an important component threatens to completely stop the engine, not to mention interruptions in operation

Design and principle of operation

So, starting the engine begins with turning the key in the ignition switch. At the same time, current must flow to the spark plugs, they give a spark to the fuel-air mixture, which is pumped up by the pump, the starter begins to rotate, causing the crankshaft to start moving. But the battery operates with low voltage electrical current.

Each coil is a small transformer. Two levels of winding are hidden under the housing of the element of the VAZ-2170 Priora ignition system. Its wires are low-voltage and high-voltage. The first ones receive current from the battery, the second ones transmit it to the spark plugs. When the current is converted, it is transferred to the spark plugs. The ECU “manages” this process, correctly distributing the force between the spark plugs.

As for how many ignition coils are in the Priora, there are 4 of them - one for each cylinder. Their work does not mix or overlap in any way. Each of them has “its own scope of work.”

Determining a faulty ignition coil

An undeniable advantage of cars with an ECM is the possibility of computer diagnostics. But there are some tricks here too. The Priora ignition coil can have three types of malfunction.

Winding circuit break.
Winding short circuit.
Mechanical damage to the tip.

And diagnostics clearly identifies only the first malfunction. In other cases, the computer indifferently reports that leaks have been detected in cylinder No. And here you need knowledge of the features of the Priora ignition system in order to determine the malfunction. The fact is that other breakdowns can also cause gaps. Such:

Failure of the fuel injector.
Inoperative spark plug.
Loss of compression in the cylinder.

How to determine that the ignition coil is not working

This method is not new, but it is very effective and very simple. So, the alarm light came on, “Check.” But there are no diagnostics at hand. What to do? The procedure is as follows:

Open the hood of the Priora.
Remove the decorative plastic motor cover.
Start the engine at idle.
Remove the connector from the coil of the first cylinder. If this “boiler” is working, then its forced shutdown will cause the motor to work completely inadequately. The vibration will increase significantly, and noticeable interruptions will appear.
If everything is in order in this cylinder, then the chip is put in place, and you need to move on to the next one. So, all the “boilers” in turn.
But if the cylinder does not work, then removing the connector will not change anything. The level of work will remain the same, which means it’s all here. Now let’s clarify the degree of fault of the Priora ignition coil.

This is done as follows. The engine must be turned off. Take a 10mm head and a wrench. The spark generator mounting bolt is removed from the suspicious cylinder. Exactly the same from the neighboring one. Then they simply change places. They are fixed and the engine starts again.

Attention! If the signs of a malfunction, that is, the absence of a change in the cleanliness of the engine when turned off, have moved along with the ignition coil to another cylinder, then that’s it, it’s definitely the sparking module. This means that it needs to be changed, and that’s the end of it.

But if all the signs remain in place, then the coil is working properly, and other components need to be checked. But that's a completely different story.

Important! Trying to repair a faulty module is not worth even trying. This is impossible in the conditions of even the most secure service. It can only be replaced

There are many videos and articles on the Internet about a certain possibility of repairing ignition coils for the ECM. It's really not worth the risk. As a result, you can burn your “brains”

It can only be replaced. There are many videos and articles on the Internet about a certain possibility of repairing ignition coils for the ECM. It's really not worth the risk. As a result, you can burn your “brains.”

Symptoms of a bad coil

There are many symptoms of coil failure and sometimes it is very difficult to determine that the coil is to blame. If such symptoms appear in your car, then you should pay attention to the ICD.

Signs of coil failure:

One of the cylinders does not work;
The car does not develop power;
Jerking when pressing the gas pedal sharply;
The engine shakes at idle;
Increased vibration at idle;
Floating speed;

It should also be noted that if the ignition coil is faulty, misfires will appear in the cylinders, as a result of which the ECU will turn off the operation of the faulty cylinder and signal this by turning on the “Cheek Engine” lamp. When “Cheek Engine” appears on the car, it is necessary to diagnose the system. If there are misfires, the ECU will display errors 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304. Where the last digits of the codes are the cylinder number.

It is not recommended to operate a car with a faulty ignition coil; this can lead to failure of the catalyst.

Signs of faulty spark plugs

The Check Engine Light can also be a sign of faulty spark plugs.

If the spark plugs do not work correctly, for example, they periodically miss a spark or do not create the required voltage discharge, problems arise in the engine due to insufficient fuel combustion.

As a result of this, the driver notices the following changes in engine operation:

Reduced engine power and at the same time increased fuel consumption.
Dips in power when pressing hard on the gas.
Engine stops at high speeds.
Long engine start.
Uneven engine operation, even during quiet driving.
Engine tripping.

It is important to note that some of the symptoms listed only appear under specific conditions. However, their absence does not indicate the normal condition of the spark plugs.

A worn-out spark plug may be just one of the signs.

Experienced motorists also know that similar signs of malfunction can signal other problems. The problem may be in the ignition coil, high-voltage wiring, power system and other systems that keep the engine running. Therefore, when faced with one or more symptoms, you need to correctly diagnose the ignition unit.

Basic faults

A normal Priora part should last from 50 to 100 thousand kilometers, depending on how often you start the engine. If an element of the Priora ignition system malfunctions, the following symptoms will occur:

When accelerating, the car will jerk (as if the box is kicking in a car with an automatic transmission), or when driving in first or second gear.
The integrity of the winding is broken. It is worth paying attention to the tip of the ignition coil of the Priora car.
The motor "troits". This manifests itself in vibration and excess noise that appears under the hood, while traction decreases.

Checking the ignition coil

How to check the coil? We carefully examine the removed spare part, paying attention to its surface. If there are cracks, chips, or scratches on the plastic parts, most likely the coil overheated and burned out. The multimeter switches to resistance testing mode, which must be measured on pins 1 and 3

With the instrument error, the figure will be 0.5 Ohm

The multimeter switches to resistance testing mode, which must be measured on contacts 1 and 3. With the instrument's error, the figure will be 0.5 Ohm.

Next, the secondary wiring is checked. There is a spring located inside the coil cap; you need to attach a red probe to it, and a black probe to the second contact. You can measure the resistance on other coils; the Priora car has 3 more of them. The device should show 340 Ohms.

If the number is different, the node still burned out. If after checking the coil turns out to be working, then you just need to insulate it. Heat the heat-shrink tube cut to size and place it on the reel. The problem has been resolved and the replacement part will work.

Troubleshooting

If the engine suddenly starts to “trouble”, then the first thing you should pay attention to is the appearance of the ignition coil. A sign that the part has overheated and eventually burned out are signs of deformation on its body, cracks and irregularities on the plastic surface.

To check the ignition coil, you need to use a multimeter, switching the device to resistance testing mode. After this, the contacts of the multimeter must be simultaneously applied to the first and third contacts of the part and thus find out its resistance. If the coil is working properly, then the device should show a value of about 0.5 Ohm with a small tolerance.

The next step in diagnosing the ignition coil is to check the secondary wiring of this part. To perform this procedure, you need to touch the spring located inside the ignition coil cap with a red probe. The black probe must be connected to the second contact. If the device readings are far from the value of 340 kOhm, then things are not very good in this case - it looks like the coil has burned out.

If the multimeter readings are normal, then most likely the ignition coil is working, and the only thing that needs to be done is simply to strengthen its insulation. To do this, you will need a special heat-shrinkable tube (every driver should have it in stock), which must be heated and placed on the reel. This procedure will help cope with the problem of possible current leakage on the Priora.

IKZ device

The Priora coil consists of a primary and secondary winding, between which a core is placed. To contact the spark plug, a spring is used, which is placed in a rubber tip. The IKZ also has a metal screen that protects the coil from high temperatures, because IKZ is installed in the well of the cylinder head, then the temperature conditions there are simply enormous.

The primary winding is wound from thin copper wire with a number of turns of 10,000-15,000.

The secondary winding of the coil consists of 100-150 turns of thick copper wire.

The connection between the coils is electromagnetic.

How to check spark plugs

Checking the spark plug using the starter.

If you notice any of the above signs of faulty spark plugs, you need to have them checked as soon as possible. Of course, it is best to turn to professionals, but there are several ways to independently diagnose spark plugs for breakage or the production of a weak spark.

One of the simplest is testing with alternating power disconnection. First, remove the wire from one of the spark plugs and start the engine. If the operating sound does not change, then the part is faulty. Otherwise, you need to carry out such a check for each of the remaining candles. Before replacing a non-working element, you need to examine it visually - it may be enough to clean off the deposits.

To diagnose a spark, you can also unscrew the spark plug, connect the wire and place it on the valve cover. Next, you need to ask an assistant to turn the starter. If the part is in working condition, a spark will appear on the electrode, clear and clearly visible.

Automotive stores sell special devices with a pistol design designed for testing spark plugs. The element is inserted into a special hole and, after pressing the start button, produces a spark. However, there is a drawback - the appearance of a spark in the gun does not guarantee that it will be the same under a different pressure in the well.

Ignition system

An experienced car enthusiast who is faced with an engine running on three cylinders immediately begins to diagnose the spark plugs. The Lada Priora must cool well, otherwise there is a risk of getting burned when unscrewing it. If after a few seconds you turn off the ignition and check the spark plugs, one of them will be wet with gasoline. It is also recommended to separately check each part for the presence of a spark.

In the event of a malfunction, the problem is solved. Sometimes it is enough to press down the potentially faulty one with a cap - the machine will resume normal operation. In general, the ignition system in this car is the most problematic part. If the Priora engine (16 valves) is malfunctioning, you can look for the reasons for a very long time, and diagnostics will not yield anything, even if it is done correctly. And only by replacing all elements can a positive result be achieved.

Types of coils

Which spark plugs are suitable for a Priora car? It is worth remembering the quality of the parts and their condition. Sometimes spark plugs have an incorrect gap; it should not be less than 1 mm. To be sure of the performance of your car, it is better to change the spark plugs and ignition coil at the same time

This is important because the contact mechanism gradually wears out and becomes unusable, as a result of which sparking is disrupted and fuel consumption increases. Replacing spark plugs is as follows:

Replacing spark plugs is as follows:

The spark plugs are screwed in using a special wrench so that the O-ring fits into place. After this, you need to tighten the spark plug 90 degrees with a wrench. When installing old spark plugs, they are tightened only 15 degrees.

Sources

https://1ladapriora.ru/remont/katushka-zazhiganiya.html
https://priora-remont.ru/zamena-katushki-zazhiganiya/
https://expertvaz.ru/priora/remont-proverit-katushku-zazhiganiya.html

HOW CAN YOU CHECK COILS

In any case, checking the ignition coil on a Priora always begins with its external inspection. Even very small cracks or tears in its elastic bands are not allowed. Their presence indicates that the device has been replaced. Cracks, chips and other damage to plastic parts indicate that the coil was overheated and it could simply “burn out”. Next, the internal parts are inspected, especially the spiral, its location. If the inspection does not reveal any visible defects, proceed to further inspection.

There are several ways to check the ignition coil, which will be discussed below. During the operation of the machine, it is not often, but there is a need to check it. Doing this when there are no obvious signs of failure is not easy without special equipment such as a spark gap or an oscilloscope. Let's look at an ignition coil without devices. To begin with, you can change places and see how the engine behaves after that. If the interruptions move with the coil, it means there is a fault in it and needs to be replaced.

You can check the high-voltage ignition coil directly on the car. To do this, you need to remove it from the engine, insert a working spark plug into the high-voltage terminal, with the ignition on. A working coil will show itself as a spark on the spark plug . In this case, you must beware of high voltage and use protective equipment.

INSTRUMENTAL COIL CHECK

After visual inspection and control, you can begin checking using measuring instruments. It is best to use digital multimeters for these purposes, or devices such as MD-1 or AZ-1. You can buy them freely, they are not high. Now let's talk about how to check the ignition coil on a Priora using instruments.

Before checking, the device must be removed from the engine. This can be done this way:

Disconnect the battery terminals;
Remove the protective plastic casing from the engine;
Squeeze the latch with your fingers and disconnect the connector with wires;
Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the fastening bolt and remove the coil from the mounting socket.

We unscrew the coil with a key - it’s simple! (naturally, the internal combustion engine has 16 valves, a coil of spark plugs in the well) Now you can start checking with instruments. First you need to check and calibrate the measuring device. To do this, set the measurement switch to the position for measuring resistance at “200 Ohms”, and connect the probes to each other. The readings should be close to “0”. These readings must be remembered or written down. They may be useful in the future. The device is calibrated, you can begin testing. Testing with a multimeter is carried out in the following order:

Both probes of the device are connected to the coil connector (polarity is not necessary) and the resistance of the primary (low-voltage) winding is measured. Pinout of contacts for measurements 1 and 3, measuring limit of the device is “200 Ohm”. It should show approximately 0.8 ohms. The indicator obtained during calibration is subtracted from this value and the true value of the winding resistance is obtained. If there are no readings, you need to check the reliability of the contact between the probes and the coil leads. If after several attempts the readings do not appear, it means that there is a break in the primary winding and it must be replaced;
The next step will be to check the high voltage winding. Set the resistance measurement limit to 2 MΩ. In this case, polarity must be observed, since the winding is high-voltage. Therefore, the red probe is inserted into the coil terminal, and the black one is connected to the connector terminal number 2, it is the middle one in the block. The device should show approximately 342 kOhm. It should be taken into account that the readings of the device are highly dependent on the heating of the coil. It is best to test on a cold coil. In this case, it is also necessary to ensure good contact of the device probe with the high-voltage terminal. If the readings are close to infinity, the part needs to be replaced.

A little about whether it is possible to repair the ignition coil. It is not possible to restore the primary or secondary winding, but even novice drivers can replace the tip on it. To do this, stock up:

New tip:
New sealing ring;
Degreasing agent;
High temperature silicone sealant.

The site where the tip is installed is cleaned and thoroughly degreased. The skirt of the new tip must be turned inside out and a small layer of sealant applied to it. While it dries a little, install a new O-ring. Next you need to install the rubber tip in its place. This will complete the repairs.

Checking the ignition coil

There are two reliable ways to check IKZ: visual inspection and checking with a multimeter.

In order to check the ignition coil, it must be removed from the car.

Removing IKZ:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Remove the decorative plastic trim.
We unscrew the coil we need with a “10” or Torx E8 head.
Remove the coil plug and remove it.

Visual inspection

After the coil is removed, it must be carefully inspected. The rubber tip should not have tears or cracks. The plastic part must not be melted or cracked. The contact spring must be in the correct shape without oxidation or rust.

Crack in the coil

Cracks in the coils or tears in the rubber cap will direct the spark to the engine body, therefore, no current will be supplied to the spark plug, which will lead to misfires.

Cracks in the rubber band

If such visual faults are detected, the coil must be replaced.

Checking with a multimeter

Testing with a multimeter is divided into two stages. Checking the resistance of the IKZ itself and checking the control voltage of the IKZ (checking the voltage on the IKZ power supply block).

Let's start by checking the voltage at the IKZ power supply.

To do this, set the switch on the multimiter to constant voltage.

Turn on the car ignition

On the block in connector number 3 we take a measurement (we connect one multimeter probe to the motor body and the other to pin number 3) the voltage should be at least 12 volts. If the voltage is less, this means that the battery is discharged or the ECU controller is faulty.

Checking the IKZ resistance

In order to check the resistance of the IKZ, you need to use a multimeter. It should be noted that resistance measurements must be carried out on a cold engine, because The resistance of the coil windings strongly depends on its temperature.

To check the resistance, it is necessary to check two windings, the secondary and the primary.

Checking the primary winding of the IKZ

When checking the primary winding of the IKZ, it is necessary to set the resistance readings on the multimeter, namely 200 Ohms. Since the resistance readings on the primary winding are not large, and the error of the device is possible, you first need to find out the error of the multimeter. In order to find out the error, you need to close the probes together, the value that will be reflected on the multimeter screen will be the error.

In this case, the instrument error is 0.7 Ohm

Next, we connect the multimeter probes to contacts 1 and 3 (the outermost contacts of the IKZ) and obtain resistance readings. From these readings we subtract the multimeter error and get the true value of the resistance of the primary winding.

Ideally, the resistance of the primary winding should be about 1 Ohm, or better yet 0.

In this example, the reading is 1.1 Ohm without taking into account the error; from 1.1 Ohm we subtract 0.7 Ohm to get 0.4 Ohm. Verdict: the primary winding of this IKZ is in working condition.

Checking the secondary winding of the IKZ

In order to check the secondary winding of the IKZ, set the multimeter to 2000 kOhm.

We connect the red multimeter probe to the spring, and the black one to the middle contact on the IKZ (pin 2). We look at the readings of the device; on a working coil, the resistance of the secondary winding should be in the range of 300-400 kOhm.

As we see, the readings of the secondary winding are also within the normal range. It follows that this IKZ is working.

If the readings are too high, you can try removing the rubber cap and spring from the coil and cleaning the contact patch, then measure the resistance directly again without the spring. If the resistance reading still does not decrease, you should think about replacing the ICP.

The easiest method to detect a faulty ignition coil, without any devices or instruments. This is a reversal of the IKZ.

List of elements of the electrical connection diagram of the rear wiring harness of LADA PRIORA

1 – rear wiring harness block to the instrument panel wiring harness block; 2 – rear wiring harness block to additional wiring harness block 2 (left rear door); 3 – rear wiring harness block to side door wiring harness block (right front door); 4 – left side direction indicator; 5 – electrical package controller; 6 – right side direction indicator; 7 – interior lighting unit; 8 – handbrake warning lamp switch; 9 – left lamp; 10 – right lamp; 11 – interior air temperature sensor; 12 – interior lamp switch in the driver’s door pillar; 13 – switch for the interior lighting in the pillar of the right front door; 14 – switch for the interior lighting in the pillar of the right rear door; 15 – interior light switch in the left rear door pillar; 16 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness of the side doors 2 (left front door); 17 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the additional wiring harness (right rear door); 18 – blocks of the rear wiring harness to the rear right loudspeaker; 19 – blocks of the rear wiring harness to the rear left loudspeaker; 20 – cigarette lighter; 21 – electric fuel pump module; 22, 23 – rear wiring harness blocks to instrument panel wiring harness blocks 2,3; 24 – trunk lighting; 25 – additional brake signal; 26 – trunk lock drive switch; 27 – interior lamp; 28 – rear wiring harness block to the front wiring harness block; 29 – left rear speed sensor; 30 – right rear speed sensor; 31 – sensor for automatic glass cleaning system (rain sensor); 32 – rain sensor sensitivity regulator; 33 – rear wiring harness block to instrument panel wiring harness block 4; 34 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness of the parking system sensors; 35 – alarm unit for safe parking system; 36 – driver’s seat belt pretensioner; 37 – passenger seat belt pretensioner; 38 – rear wiring harness block to side door wiring harness block 3 (right front door); 39 – airbag control unit; 40 – parking system control unit; 41 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the rear additional wiring harness (tailgate); 42 – rear wiring harness block to rear additional wiring harness block 2 (tailgate); 43 – left seat heater; 44 – switch for electric seat heaters; 45 – right seat heater. 46 – rear wiring harness block to the parking system switch.

Checking the performance of the coil

A multitester is a device that combines a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter.

Before connecting the device to the coil, its internal resistance must be checked to take into account possible errors. Then we connect the tester to the primary winding. If the device shows no more than 0.5 Ohm, taking into account the measurement error, then everything is fine with this coil

I mean, with its primary winding. But there is also a secondary one. How can I check it?

If the device shows no more than 0.5 Ohm, taking into account the measurement error, then everything is fine with this coil. I mean, with its primary winding. But there is also a secondary one. How can I check it?

You need to remove the coil from its place by disconnecting the negative terminal of the Priora battery. Decorative plastic is removed from the motor. Then you need to press out the plastic clamp and disconnect the coil from the wiring, after which the fastening bolt is unscrewed with a 10mm wrench and the device is removed from the spark plug well.

Problems with coils can lead to sudden jerks in engine operation, speed surges, and cylinder failures. Therefore, if you have such symptoms, it is better to use the above information and replace the suspicious part before it completely fails. It also happens that the coil has not yet broken, but is already malfunctioning. This does not necessarily mean that a replacement is needed; some repairs will do, or rather cleaning of water condensation and dirt.

Sometimes coils fail when the spark plug gap is incorrect. Checking the performance of the coil on a Priora car can be easily done by turning the crankshaft. To do this, you need to relieve the pressure in the fuel system and remove the fuel pump fuse. Then we remove the coil, insert a spark plug into its rubber tip, and connect the wires to the coil itself.

You can check the coil power circuit. You need to take the multitester mentioned above and connect its probes to its terminals. If you turn on the ignition at this moment, the tester should show a voltage equal to that at the battery terminals. Otherwise, it is necessary to check the circuits for opens and shorts. If the power and control circuits are working properly, but when checking there is no spark on the working spark plug inserted into the tip, then the coil is faulty and will have to be replaced.

Checking the ICP with a spark gap

Procedure

Disconnect the IKZ from the spark plug.
Install a spark gap on the IKZ.
Apply ground (from the battery terminal) to the spark gap using a wire.
Turn the crankshaft with the starter.
If there is a spark, then the IKZ is working.

Let us remind you that you can find a problem in engine operation by independently measuring the pressure in the fuel rail, or by checking the compression in the cylinders.

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Description of the ignition coil

Let's start with a description of automotive short circuits. First of all, it is necessary to consider the device, as well as the operating principle of the unit on an engine with 8 or 16 valves.

Design and designation of the main elements of the NGK ignition coil

Design and principle of operation

Every car enthusiast knows that the main function of the short circuit on the Lada Priora is to ignite the combustible mixture, which is necessary to start the power unit. To ensure the mixture is ignited, a very high voltage is generated in the short circuit, amounting to 40 thousand volts. The short circuit itself is a transformer device designed to increase the low voltage produced by the battery. According to its design, the short circuit of a 16-valve engine consists of two windings - primary and secondary, which are wound using a copper wire on a steel core.

First, the primary device is wound onto the core, and the secondary device is wound on top of it. This design is protected by a special housing. If the primary winding contains about 150 turns, then the secondary winding will have more than one thousand of them. There are no high-voltage cables in the short-circuit design, since they are put on the spark plug.

When the powertrain control unit transmits a signal to the primary winding, a magnetic field is generated around the core. Ultimately, it contributes to the formation of high voltage on the secondary winding. As for the spark plug, at this moment it ignites the combustible mixture in the cylinders of a 16-valve engine. The short circuit is equipped with a protective housing, and inside the structure there is a special spring with a diode. The latter is designed for promptly cutting off high-voltage signals (the author of the video about the node malfunction is the IZO)))LENTA channel).

Types of coils

Let's briefly consider the main types of short circuits for cars:

General short circuit, this type is one of the most common. It can be used in both contact and non-contact systems, as well as electronic systems with a distributor.
Individual type of short circuit. Designed for use in electronic systems. By design, this type also consists of primary and secondary windings, only they are located in reverse - first the secondary, then the primary. Also, such short circuits can use electronic components to ignite a combustible mixture.
Dual type, such short circuits are also often called two-terminal. Such units are used in various electronic systems. The key difference in the design is the presence of two high-voltage cables, designed to ensure the formation of a spark in two cylinders simultaneously.

Symptoms of a problem

The ignition coil on a Priora on a 16-valve engine, like any other mechanism, sooner or later fails.

The driver can recognize that this device needs replacement or repair by the following symptoms:

The operation of the power unit as a whole is disrupted. The 16-valve engine begins to vibrate, its power drops, and when you press the gas pedal it will be difficult to accelerate. In addition, the engine begins to stall. The same signs also appear with inoperative spark plugs, so they need to be checked first.
While trying to accelerate, the driver will notice that the vehicle begins to jerk. Shocks also appear when driving at low speeds.
Another symptom is the presence of cracks or traces of breaks in the insulation.

Trouble the engine: why is it dangerous?

This is a rather critical phenomenon, especially if the unit begins to vibrate during acceleration.

This behavior of the engine is especially dangerous when the driver decides to overtake, but there are cars in the oncoming lane. In the process, while the motor is running, the engine power is significantly reduced. The compression ratio decreases - there may not be enough dynamics to successfully complete the maneuver.

Considering that the Lada Priora has been manufactured since 2007, there are often instances where the engine knocks like on an old car 20 years ago. This is an engine running on three cylinders. It may have the latest firmware, but if the Lada Priora has a bad engine, then such a car will not have much life left.

The procedure for checking the short circuit

So, there are signs of a malfunction, you should check it.

First of all, the coil must be dismantled. For this you will need:

prepare a ten-point socket wrench;
disconnect the terminals on the battery;
open the protective casing covering the motor;
press the locking device out of the plastic, disconnect the wiring from the coil terminal;
remove the fastening bolt;
pull out the ignition coil.

An inspection is now underway. It should not show any cracks, melts or leaks on the caps and body parts. Only slight smokedness is allowed. Electrics can be checked in several ways. Having installed a working spark plug, we check the device for the presence of a “spark” on the car body. If there is no spark from the coil, then it is quite possible that the short circuit has lost its functionality. In such a situation, you should check the gap in the spark plugs. All work should be performed with rubberized gloves to completely prevent contact of the body or tool with the car body or engine. The fact is that the coil is capable of generating voltage in the range of 20 - 40 kV. Another option is to remove the coil and install it on a good cylinder on another car to perform a drive test. If the short circuit is faulty, it will immediately appear. The third method is instrumental.

The main reasons why the ignition coil breaks are considered to be high temperatures or overheating, which contribute to the formation of cracks. There is a high probability of short circuit failure due to the accumulation of moisture or the formation of corrosion, frequent switching on of the ignition without subsequent starting of the engine, prolonged overloads when an unsuccessful attempt to start the engine.

Which reel to buy

Many car enthusiasts advise buying the cheapest devices. Why is that? It is believed that the coils burn primarily due to a poor-quality spark plug. Of course, it would be useful to make sure that all the spark plugs are in good working order, but even if there are no problems, but the coil still burns out, it is recommended to replace the spark plug in the cylinder where the malfunction occurred. At the same time, not all car owners are ready to trust the most budget reels, and such an opinion also has a right to life.

Experienced car enthusiasts advise purchasing products from one of two brands:

Bosch.
Omega.

Please note right away that the cost of devices can be quite high. For example, one Bosch coil costs about 700 rubles

Taking into account the fact that 4 parts are needed to replace at once, this amounts to a considerable amount. Which option will be best for you is up to you to decide.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT CHOOSING COILS

According to reviews from experts and owners, the ignition coil for Priora is best suited from BOSCH. Its cost is approximately 1500 rubles, but it is worth it. Such products are necessarily sold in individual yellow packaging. The original coils of this company can last more than 100 thousand kilometers.

The elegant Priora is a car with a gasoline engine. This means that the mixture in the cylinders is ignited by a spark. Well, this, in turn, requires the presence of an ignition coil (bobbin). Or a spark generator. How does this system work on Priora? How does the Priora ignition system work in general? This is what we will talk about.