Lada Kalina noise in the transmission when releasing the clutch

Posts: 18 On the forum since: 01/07/16

Advanced user

Elite

Yes, it squeaks from there. There are a lot of holes there, like the earphone, I sealed it with electrical tape, I didn’t feel the difference, the tonality has changed a little, the panel body is not sealed, the sound penetrates from everywhere.

There is also a limit switch in the driver's door lock, which is where the indicator lights up. It doesn’t go directly to either the instrument panel or the control panel, it goes to the driver’s door block pin4 (brown), and there the data from the control panel is transmitted via the line bus (in the driver’s door connector it’s pin 4, red-brown or red-green, then it goes to CBKE connector XP3 pin 8). You can click the lock with the door open, I think the indicator will go out.

Installed autorun. pulled the chip out of the key and attached it to the ignition switch

The CBKE unit is independently connected to all door terminals and transmits the door status via the CAN bus to the device.

Advanced user

Elite

And not at all like that. The rear door limit switches converge at one point and go to pin 18 of the TsBKE, and the front right door limit switch goes to pin 17 of the TsBKE.

Advanced user

Elite

Posts: 1104 On the forum since: 11/15/16

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ZIG_R View profile lucky777 View profile

no, the question is that if you don’t pull the key out of the lock and open the door, a buzzer sounds. but I only have it if the driver's side is open, but I want to make any door open and the buzzer beeps

ZIG_R View profile

no, the question is that if you don’t pull the key out of the lock and open the door, a buzzer sounds. but I only have it if the driver's side is open, but I want to make any door open and the buzzer beeps

I understand about the buzzer, but it doesn’t save children from opening it on the go. My three-door was once a big driver in this matter..

lucky777 View profile bond80 View profile privatalex View profile Tol466 View profile R_S View profile

Personally, I check the closing of doors, as mentioned earlier, through the interior lighting. If the door is not closed, then when the interior lighting is switched to the mode of turning on the light from opening the doors, the central lamp will light up.

lucky777 View Profile

Those. The signal (“ground”) must be taken from the control unit (control unit on the left, under the rear seat) contact block 10 white-red wire (rear doors), 11 brown-red (front passenger door) and 22 white-blue (driver’s door). As a result, you only need contact 10, take the mass from it, buy an additional 12V tweeter at the radio market/store for 10-20 hryvnia, and take the permanent plus from the place where you put the tweeter (for example, from the cigarette lighter). Something like this.

Shurik View profile lucky777 View profile

On the 12th contact of the tidy, I’m already planning to turn on the seat belt indicator, and I’m already starting to make preparations. is done with the goal of teaching all passengers (and themselves too) to buckle up on the road and to show off in front of the owners of foreign cars - like ours is also not a bad thing, otherwise they walk around with such an air of “oo-o-o-o-o and there is air conditioning, o-o-o- and there’s nothing inside, oooh, and the squeaker in reverse.” but doors are even a necessity. I picked up a bunch of information and read that the car beeps, it turns out because they forgot to take the key out of the ignition. So I’m walking around like a sick person with the thought: there are limit switches in each door (to trigger the standard signal), and the buzzer only works when the driver’s door is opened. I WANT: connect all the door switches in parallel and throw a “forgotten key” to the buzzer. I think I know the theory, but I don’t know the following: 1. control in the doors by plus or minus 2 what colors of the necessary wires 3. what block they come to (the NORMAL one is the one in the back under the seat or the APS or IMMO the ones in the dashboard) and on which block the “forgotten key” buzzer is located 4. what are the numbers of the terminals for the wires I need 5 if I twist them together, will I get the desired result 6 will this negatively affect the activated standard whitefish

If anyone has bothered with such questions or is in charge of this topic, please answer my questions. I’ve never seen a topic like this before (otherwise I’d be bombarded with links), and maybe someone else will start the same thing.

Tol466 View Profile

1. The electric lock in the door naturally changes places plus/minus, the limit switch in the lock changes places - minus. Those. minus control. 3. The limit switches of all doors come to Norma (since it is also a standard alarm system). Only the driver's door limit switch comes to the immo control unit (in the dashboard) (the buzzer for the key left is in the immo control unit). 5. NO. 6. If item 5 is in a pile, it will be reflected.

Regarding point 2: as I wrote above, you need contact 10 of the Norma block (double white-red wire) - these are the rear door limit switches. Those. a minus appears there when the lock is opened to inform the alarm that the rear doors are open. Buy an additional buzzer (how it works here) Tweeter option for review HCM1212X Permanent plus can be taken from Norma and place the beeper next to the block.

Does the standard alarm on Kalina not work? Check the contacts in the key and radio module, relearn the key with the remote control, check the contacts of the trunk/door switches and the central locking. If this does not help, disable the factory protection using a special code, and then install a new alarm system from any of the brands.

Frequent problems with alarms on Lada Kalina

The Lada Kalina manufacturer provides a standard alarm system that operates on a simplified principle and provides the following functions:

• door locking/unlocking;
• locking all doors when closing the driver's side;
• opening/closing the car by pressing a special button in the cabin;
• turning on the alarm when there is a break-in attempt.

Causes and solutions

Before taking steps to troubleshoot the problem, you need to figure out why the alarm on Kalina is not working. There may be several reasons for this:

1. Poor contact in the key.
2. Breakage of the electronic printed circuit board and the appearance of small cracks.
3. Lack of normal contact connection in the radio module.
4. Moisture getting into the engine compartment sensor.
5. Damage to the central lock.
6. The battery is low, which is why the Kalina alarm key fob does not work.
7. Lack of communication between the control unit and the key.
8. Wetting of the internal parts of the unit.
9. Power supply interrupted or fuse damaged.

Check the battery

First, make sure that the cause of the problem is not the battery of the standard alarm remote control. Replace the power supply and check whether the remote control works on Kalina or not.

Clean the key

If the standard alarm system on Kalina stops working, check the condition of the key. Remember if you haven’t washed the remote control or maybe it got wet. Take it apart and examine the quality of the contacts. If you suspect they are dirty, clean them or change the device. During assembly, be careful not to overtighten the main screw to avoid damage.

Check the solder quality on the PCB

Open the radio module and inspect the quality of the soldering. If there are problems, it is necessary to strengthen it or change the product to start the engine. For replacement, you can contact specialists.

Train Keychain

There are situations when the alarm system on Kalina does not work due to a malfunction of the key fob. In this case, try retraining the new device. Take the following steps:

1. Close the doors and turn on the ignition with the learning key, then wait 6 seconds.
2. Turn off the power and the indicator light will flash quickly.
3. Insert the working key into the lock within 6 seconds. In this case, the buzzer should beep three times.
4. Wait about 6 more seconds with the ignition on until two new beeps are heard.
5. Turn off the power.
6. While the lamp is flashing, take out the working key, install the training key and turn on the ignition. If everything is done correctly, there should be three signals.
7. Without turning off the power, wait for two beeps.
8. Turn off the ignition, but do not take out the training master key. After 6 seconds, you can hear one signal and the lamp blinking at double frequency.
9. No later than 6 seconds later, turn on the ignition with the training key.
10. Wait 2-3 seconds and turn off the ignition.
11. After five seconds there should be three beeps. The light should stop flashing.
12. Do not turn on the ignition for about 10 seconds.

Dry the sensor or block

It happens when the standard alarm system in a Lada Kalina does not work due to the wetness of the sensor in the engine compartment or the unit. In the case of a sensor, the device must be changed or dried. The control unit must be removed and dried, after which the system works correctly.

Check your contacts

Another situation when the standard Kalina alarm does not work on 1 or 2 doors. In this case, check the integrity of the limit switches and the operation of the central locking. If the central locking does not work on all doors, ring the fuse that powers this unit.

Turn off the unit

If there is no result, the unit may need to be turned off. To do this, do the following:

• Remove the wires from the battery.

• Take out the ashtray and unscrew the four bolts that secure the housing.
• Remove the plugs located near the service button.
• Unscrew the two screws that are located under the plugs.
• Remove the rotary air distributors.
• Remove the central gasket by removing it from the clips.
• Discard the electrical cables that lead to the electronics in the dashboard.
• Remove the stock unit under the center air duct.

• Disconnect the power cable.

Restore the diagnostic line after removing the standard alarm. To do this, install a jumper between the Kalina ECU and the diagnostic block. If the line is not needed, just connect the wires to restore the K-Line. You also need to erase the standard alarm immobilizer data in the ECU.

Setting a password and unlocking

In a situation where the standard alarm system on Kalina does not work, you may need to unlock the security system. The car developers have provided the ability to start the engine without a code key. In this case, you need to tell the controller a certain password, which is set by the accelerator pedal. At first it is not active. If the ignition is on and the engine is not running, the check engine button on the Kalina dashboard lights up. After activating it, the symbol goes out within a minute.

To deactivate the standard alarm in Kalina if it does not work, do the following:

1. Insert the training key and turn off the ignition, remove the product from the lock.
2. Within six seconds, start the ignition with a working “master key”. Three signals appear, and then two more.
3. Turn off the ignition and remove the key.
4. In six seconds, turn on the ignition with the teacher, and after three + two signals, turn off the ignition and remove the key.
5. Turn on the ignition within six seconds. The “Check Engine” sign should light up and go out after a few minutes. Enter any password from 111111 to 999999.
6. To set the password, press the accelerator pedal. The check engine light comes on. Hold the pedal for no more than 3 seconds and then release.
7. Enter the code by pressing the gas pedal the required number of times (hold for three seconds). The next time you press (after entering the code), lock the pedal for five seconds.
8. Enter the remaining numbers.

As soon as the password is activated and the Kalina standard alarm immobilizer does not work, start the engine. To do this, turn on the ignition with the operating element, enter the password. After specifying the sixth digit, the engine should start. If the engine stalls, you are given another 5 seconds to start, after which you will have to enter the password again.

Now you know what to do if the standard alarm system on Kalina does not work. In the comments, share your experience in solving this problem.

The Lada Kalina car consists of hundreds of parts, assemblies and mechanisms. These are, for example, wheels, steering wheel, doors, trunk, engine, etc. But at the same time, the car has a number of parts, the existence of which only people involved in the repair and operation of cars have any idea about. This includes the door switch Kalina, what kind of unit it is and what its functional purpose we will consider further.

Addition block

It is located on the bottom right of the instrument panel, near the heater air duct, and is also covered with a lid. The cover is attached to a screw; to remove it, you need to unscrew this screw. To dismantle the relay block itself, wrench No. 10 is useful.

The relay block is responsible for the following functions and components.

1. Turn on the engine cooling fan (low and high speed).
2. Main relay.
3. Fan fuse.
4. Fuel pump switch relay.

You need to know which guards protect which elements. This is especially true if one of them is responsible for two or three nodes. For example, if you discover that the cigarette lighter does not work (usually some device is connected through it, for example, a DVR), you should check the radio. If it does not turn on, then it is necessary to replace fuse F20. You can replace the damaged element yourself. There is no need to contact a car service, since after replacing the fuse everything should work.

If any fuse or relay malfunctions, you must remove the blown element and put a new one in its place. The blocks must be restored or assembled in the same sequence as they were disassembled.

Purpose in different cars

Without the participation of limit switches in a car, even such a process as opening and closing doors, hood or trunk is not complete. If there is an unauthorized attempt to open them, the security alarm is immediately triggered, which is connected to the corresponding parts through certain wires.

Without the help of a switch, the lamp inside the car will not automatically turn on at night, the control sensor will not work, etc. The trunk lighting will not turn on when it is opened. The brake lights will not light up when you press the brake pedal if the corresponding part – the “frog” – is faulty.

The units vary in shape and installation location depending on the make of the car. The door elements of many cars are located in the door opening (slam). It’s just impossible to see where the door switches are located on Kalina, since the part is hidden in the door lock.

LADA Kalina Cross in the “Unique Outback” (introductory post)

We didn’t wait for the “war paint” and the official start; it’s time to talk about the behavior of the car and its characteristics.

03. Here's how this car differs from the first version of Kalina (9 photos are clickable, friends):

05. What does the manufacturer offer in terms of comfort: - sound insulation (excellent, no complaints so far) - electric heated exterior mirrors - electric power steering (although the first Kalina is easier to control) - height adjustment of the front seat belts - climate system - heated front seats - electric windows of the front doors - light tinting of the windows - height-adjustable steering column - audio system (FM, USB, SD card, Bluetooth, Hands free), external antenna, 4 speakers - central locking with remote control - cabin air filter (photo on the left - mirror Kalina Cross, on the right - just Kalina)

07. The salon has changed significantly (visually, friends, visually), the hand of chief designer Steve Mattin is felt. What's in the interior: - Fabric seat upholstery - Split rear seat (40/60 layout) - On-board computer - Glove compartment lighting - Driver's tool: jack, combination wheel wrench (strange, but we don't have this) - Luggage compartment lighting - Temperature sensor outside air (also not identified by us)

13. In terms of safety, the LADA Kalina Cross has been well improved. What we have: - Indication that the driver's seat belt is not fastened (it already seems to me that we will never become friends - we will have to buckle up :) - Security alarm - Electric headlight range control - Rear seat headrests - Daytime running lights (a very useful thing during the day, no need to turn toggle switch when you start/stop the car) - Driver airbag - Anti-lock braking system with brake assist (ABS+BAS) - Immobilizer - Electronic brake force distribution (EBD)

17. Under the hood is the best VAZ 127 unit for today (in my opinion). We didn’t drive it hard; the car is still being run-in. By the way, this engine is also installed on LADA Sport (after increasing the power): Characteristics of engine 21127: - displacement - 1596 cc - number of cylinders - 4 pcs. - maximum power - 78/5800 kW/rpm - maximum torque torque - 148/4000 Nm/rpm - maximum engine power - 106 hp - combined cycle consumption - 6.7 L/100 km (as we have now:) - engine life - 200 thousand km.

18. Trunk volume - 355 liters. With the rear seats folded down - 670 liters. In the fall we will try it with potatoes, on the advice of Vladimir Putin.

20. The ground clearance of Kalina Cross is increased by 23 mm compared to its sisters. The car has good cross-country ability:

24. Older cars won’t risk such experiments; they have a shorter seating position:

26. And a few more photos from our expedition. In comparison and without (photos are clickable):

34. True, on the way back, when serious rain caught me on the dirt road, I had to be a little nervous on the hills. In some places I drove very slowly so as not to slip into a skid.

In general, the impressions are only positive. LADA Kalina Cross is a practical and dynamic car. Comfortable seats, spacious interior, air conditioning. As I already noted, the car is powerful and at the same time economical (our computer shows 6.7 liters per 100 km). Friends, I will give answers to all the questions that I received in the near future. 36. If you have any questions, you can send them in a personal message or leave them in the comments. If there are a lot of questions, I will devote separate posts to this. All the best, friends!

PS. Let me remind you that we report our news and expeditions in our groups on social networks: Vkontakte, FB, Odnoklassniki, Flicr, Tumblr. Our Instagramm. Stay with us!

What's behind this name?

This is the common name for a limit switch. In it, two contacts are connected or separated from each other by means of a movable rod, but thanks to the return spring, they are not fixed. When not pressed, the contacts are closed. As soon as a certain force is applied to the limit switch rod (for example, when closing a door), they open and the electrical circuit is broken.

Visually, the part is a small switch, the task of which is to transmit a signal from it through wires to the corresponding control system when closing and opening contacts.

In the early releases of VAZ models, the weak point was the poor location of the door limit switches - in its slam. They were constantly exposed to the environment and often failed. Subsequently, modifications were carried out on Lada Kalina Cross station wagon, Lada Xray hatchback, etc. The parts began to be installed inside the door - in the lock, which is well protected.

Installing power steering - step by step instructions

This instruction is intended for VAZ 2110 cars, which do not have power steering at all. Such models were produced a long time ago, but they can still be found on the road today. In this case, the car can be upgraded with your own hands.

You can install the power steering yourself; for this you will need a power steering kit - today it can be purchased for about 20 thousand. From the tools, prepare a set of keys and screwdrivers; you should also take care of the amplifier fluid in advance.

Plus and minus - what is their difference?

The operating principle of automotive limit switches is almost the same for all. However, there is a difference in polarization. They are divided into plus and minus.

For the most part, negative limit switches are installed on the car. They are present in all VAZ models, including Kalina. The peculiarity of their operation is that when the door is opened, they short to ground (minus).

Positive limit switches are less common; they are present in some foreign cars and the Volga. To find the positive end switch, you need to:

1. Find the appropriate wire and connect it to the voltmeter.
2. Open the car door slightly. If the voltmeter scale shows +12V, the element is positive.

Why connecting an alarm system to limit switches is an important process

In all modern cars, an important safety element is the security alarm system. The main role in it is played by transmitting devices. The correct operation depends on how correctly they are connected.

If connected correctly, the effect in the Lada Kalina car is as follows:

1. The security alarm system reliably locks the doors, hood and trunk of the car.
2. In case of unauthorized opening, thanks to a properly adjusted alarm system, the car will begin to emit characteristic loud signals.
3. If the driver forgot to close the doors or trunk, the system will notify him about this.

Limit switches are installed in the security circuit in two ways:

1. General diagram, elements work on the principle of one wire.
2. Individual, a separate wire is connected to each end switch.

How to find limit switches quickly and without any problems

In some cases, for example, when you need to connect an alarm, it becomes necessary to find the driver's door switch for the Lada Kalina. To do this you need:

1. Open the “Operation Manual for the LADA KALINA”, study the diagram of systems and components associated with limit switches, as well as the wiring diagram that powers these elements. Identify the node by number.
2. Study the overview of the operation of the alarm system installed in this vehicle. The installation points for the limit switches are indicated there.
3. Use an ammeter to find the location points.

Troubleshooting door switches

The Lada Kalina limit switch is not located in the door leaf, as in other VAZ models, but in the closing lock itself.

One of the reasons for incorrect operation is the grinding of the mechanism, or rather its moving part made of plastic, as a result of which it does not make contact.

The procedure required to restore the part's functionality:

1. Remove the door trim.
2. Disconnect the lock terminal.
3. Remove the lock.
4. Carefully remove the limit switch cover using a knife or screwdriver.
5. Wrap tape around the lock pusher. This will increase its size a little, allowing it to push the limit switch into position.
6. Fill the pusher with the wound tape with high-quality glue.
7. Replace the cover, having previously spread glue around the perimeter.
8. Reinstall the door in reverse order.

The procedure for troubleshooting faults in door switches of other models differs, since each configuration has an individual operating scheme.

Differences between EUR and power steering

These are completely different units. To understand the main differences, it’s enough to study the hydraulic booster. Its main component is a pump driven by the crankshaft, it is integrated into parts. The mechanism of operation of the hydraulic booster is based on hydraulics.

Read

As for the electric power steering, it is driven by an electric motor. It also includes an electrical control unit

, control shaft with torsion element and sensors. The EUR works according to a different scheme:

1. When the steering wheel rotates, the torsion shaft twists;
2. Special sensors record changes in the position of the shaft and send data to the electrical control unit;
3. After analyzing the information, the unit sends commands to the electric motor;
4. Ultimately, the unit makes the necessary force or simplifies the rotation of the control wheel.

Car owners often argue which option is better for the “ten”. In fact, power steering is an obsolete unit that is being intensively removed from modern passenger cars. The electric booster works even when the engine is turned off and weighs less than the power steering. The main advantage over “hydraulics” is reliability - the electronic unit practically does not require maintenance. The engine is subject to the least load, therefore, less fuel is also needed. The EUR is not bad according to our criteria, in addition to the fact that it works perfectly at subzero temperatures.

How to check limit switches

From time to time there is a need to check the serviceability of the limit switches. It is their fault that the alarm system starts to malfunction and the interior light does not turn on. It is recommended to check the functionality of the limit switches in a comprehensive manner, i.e. check the wiring first, and then the element.

The procedure for checking the serviceability of the wiring and door switch when the interior lighting is turned on and off incorrectly:

1. We remove the limit switch.
2. Using a voltmeter or multimeter set to voltmeter mode, we measure the voltage at the contacts of the wire block. If there is no voltage, then the lamp itself or the wires powering it are faulty. If it is there, but less than 12 volts, then the wire connecting the limit switch to ground is damaged.
3. Switch the multimeter to ohmmeter mode.
4. We connect it to the limit switch wires. In the initial (not pressed) state of the limit switch, the ohmmeter should show a resistance close to zero. If the device shows a different number, then the element is faulty. When the rod is pressed (contacts are open), if it is in good condition, the resistance reading on the device will tend to infinity.

Fuse markings

In order to understand what components and assemblies the Lada guards are responsible for, you need to look at the cover of the fuse box. On the reverse side there is a table showing the markings of the fuses and a picture corresponding to this designation. These pictures are enough to understand everything. After analyzing the images, the Lada fuse diagram will seem not so scary.

In addition to fuses, which are designated by the Latin letter F, manufacturers also noted relays. These elements are marked with the letter K. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that first fuses and then relays are shown on the cover. In the Kalina block itself the opposite is true.

List of fuses that protect certain circuits.

F1 - immobilizer control unit, hazard warning switch, set of instruments.

Each fuse controls the operation of a specific component of the car.

F2 - power windows.

• F3 - hazard warning switch.
• F4 - windshield wiper.
• F5 - heater, electric power steering control unit.
• F6 - sound signal.
• F7 - instrument cluster, interior lighting.
• F8 - heated rear window.
• F9 - right side lights.
• F10 - left side lights.
• F11 - immobilizer control unit.
• F12 - right low beam.
• F13 - left low beam.
• F27 - electric power steering control unit (large red fuse 50 A).
• F28 - control unit for the anti-lock wheel system (if there is no ABS, then this place is empty).
• F14 - right high beam.
• F15 - left high beam.
• F16, F17 - fog lights.
• F18 - seat heating.
• F19 - ABS.
• F20 - cigarette lighter.
• F21 - reverse lock.
• F22 - electrical package control unit.
• F23, F24, F25 - spare.
• F26 - ABS.

Backlight

Many drivers install additional lighting in addition to the standard one. LED lighting, which is mounted on the bottom of the door, is popular.

For installation you need to prepare:

• LED strip of the required length, price from 500 rubles;
• electrical wires with bare and stripped ends;
• electrical tape;
• soldering iron;
• glue;
• multimeter

1. Solder and insulate wires of pre-measured length to the “plus” and “minus” of the LED strip.
2. Remove the door trim.
3. Using a multimeter, find the positive wire of the cigarette lighter and connect it to the corresponding wire of the LED strip.
4. Connect the negative wire of the limit switch to the corresponding wire of the LED strip.
5. Check the functionality of the backlight by opening and closing the door.
6. Attach the LED strip to the door using glue.