Wheel bearing diagnostics, causes and signs of failure
Let us briefly list the signs of this breakdown:
- Noise when driving from the front (right or left), and when turning there is also a noise or howling.
- Vibration in the interior is a sign that repairs are required, as the lubricant may have dried out or a lot of dirt has entered.
- A grinding or crunching sound means that the front wheel bearing has already fallen apart.
Before jumping to conclusions, do a step-by-step diagnosis:
- Jack up the side where there are characteristic signs, but before doing this, remove the wheel.
- Rotate the disk by hand; if there is a “rolling” sound or other noise, a replacement is needed. When the product is in good working order, rotation is smooth, without jamming or noise.
- Remove the brake disc, check the hub play by moving it by hand in the axial direction - if you feel the movement without measurements, then the front hub bearing needs to be replaced.
Advice:
Before disassembling the unit, try tightening the hub nut, then do the diagnostics again. There is a high probability that the noise will go away, but this will not last long, at least it will allow you to drive another 100-200 km.
Reasons for failure:
- Not economical driving, over pits and potholes in the asphalt.
- Frequent overheating of the mechanism.
- Damage to the boot, contamination of the spare part from the inside.
- Wear of the product according to the warranty service life (60 thousand km stated).
- Malfunction of other elements (the brake disc is unbalanced, the rotating mechanism is worn out or the wheels are unbalanced, etc.).
Be sure to watch the video on how to check a wheel bearing:
How to check a wheel bearing
Design and purpose of hubs
The VAZ-2108 moves due to the fact that from the running engine, through mechanical transmissions, torque is transmitted to the drive wheels (in this case, the front wheels). But if the connection between the wheels, axles and the frame is rigid, then movement on an uneven surface will simply become impossible. In addition, all components will quickly fail as a result of colossal shock loads.
To prevent this, a system of intermediate links (levers), or suspension, is used. It should smooth out the effect of road surface irregularities on the ride. Its final unit, to which the wheel is attached, is the hub. This is a cylindrical housing part that is installed on the drive and driven shafts. Between the hub and the shaft there is a bearing, which allows the wheel to rotate.
The main functions of this node are:
Structurally, any hub consists of the following components:
- Outer rim. Made in the shape of a glass with holes for exiting and fixing the axle shaft, as well as the wheel disk.
- Bearing cup. In fact, this is not a separate unit, but just the inner part of the rim, which has the necessary dimensions for installing rotation supports.
- Slotted hole. Again, part of the rim is the central hole in it, which has a spline for installing and fixing the axle shaft.
The wheel hub is formed from a cast blank by machining the seating surfaces.
Three ways to replace the front wheel bearing on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands
There are three popular methods that vary in speed and quality of replacement. Depending on your needs, choose the replacement option that suits you. Before performing any operations, familiarize yourself with the unit structure.
| P.P. | Designation | Name |
| 1 | 2108-3001014 | Steering knuckle |
| 2 | 2108-3001060 | Inner anti-splash ring |
| 3 | 2108-3001061 | Dirt-proof steering knuckle ring |
| 4 | 2108-3103032 | Lane bearing retaining ring. |
| 5 | 21080-3103020-02 | Bearing 256907 front hub |
| 6 | 2108-3103012 | Hub |
| 7 | 2108-3103061 | Front hub mud ring |
| 8 | 2108-3103079 | Hub washer |
| 9 | 2108-3103065 | Hub cap |
| 10 | 2108-3103068 | O-ring for hub cap |
| 11 | 2110-3103065 | Hub cap |
| 12 | 1/40442/71 | Hub nut |
Preparatory activities before replacement
Regardless of the chosen replacement option, you will need a minimum set of tools:
- Large screwdriver.
- Keys: 17, 13, 10.
- Hexagon 10.
- Hammer and chisel.
- A long 30mm wrench or a 30mm socket with a knob.
- Wheel puller for VAZ (photo).
- Mandrels (or heads) for knocking out the old part from the hub.
- Torque wrench.
We prepare the car, place it on a flat surface, you will also need bright lighting. You will complete all the work faster with an assistant, and also if you use an inspection hole (overpass). Put the car in first gear, and be sure to put chocks under the rear wheels.
Advice:
The first, more efficient and high-quality replacement option is recommended for work, since pressing in and out is carried out using a removable device, in a shock-free manner.
Replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2109 - first steps
Regardless of the replacement method, the initial operations will be similar:
- Before putting the car on a jack, it is recommended to loosen the front hub nut.
- Then loosen the front wheel mounts.
- After removing the wheel, unbend the locknut collar.
- Next, tighten the bolts that hold the caliper, top and bottom, one at a time.
- Then use a screwdriver to straighten the pads in the caliper.
- We hang the caliper or move it to the side. Further operations will follow, based on the specific replacement option.
How to remove a bearing on a VAZ 2109 using method No. 2 with removing the strut, but without using a puller
The entire structure is removed, along with the steering knuckle. The part is replaced directly on the rack (possibly with a removable device). There is no need to do a wheel alignment.
Execution order:
- Unscrew and remove the steering tip as well.
- After this, you will need to free the strut from the top bolts under the hood.
- We also remove the strut assembly from the CV joint and disconnect it from the car.
- Now we change the part using the methods described above. Either using a puller, or using mandrels to remove and then press in a new front wheel bearing
It is important to know:
It is not recommended to use impact methods, especially when installing a new part. Use the pressing options described in method No. 1 or No. 3.
More details about the operation are presented in the video:
Replacing the front bearing 2108-2110
ROUNDED FIST
The steering knuckle, mentioned above, is another important element of the VAZ 2107 suspension. Its purpose is easy to guess from the name. This part ensures smooth turning of the car's front wheels. The knuckle has two eyes with which it is attached to the paired suspension arms. On the reverse side of the knuckle there is a kingpin onto which the hub is placed along with the wheel bearing.
The steering knuckles on the "sevens" have a long kingpin for attaching the hub
The hub, placed on the knuckle pin, is secured with a nut. It should be said here that turning the wheels is not the only thing the fist is responsible for. It also has an additional function: it limits wheel rotation. For this purpose, special protrusions are provided on the fists of the “seven”. When turning too sharply, the suspension arms hit these ridges and the driver can no longer turn the steering wheel. The knuckle must have a huge margin of safety, since it bears most of the shock loads that occur when the car is moving, especially on uneven roads. However, sometimes the fist becomes deformed (as a rule, this happens after the front wheels fall into a very deep hole or after an accident). Here are the main signs that something is wrong with your fist:
- when driving, the car pulls strongly to the side, and this becomes more pronounced with increasing speed;
- the driver suddenly notices that the turning radius has become smaller, and it has become more difficult to “fit” into very sharp turns. This indicates a decrease in the angle of rotation of the wheels. And this phenomenon occurs after a serious deformation of one fist;
- turning the wheel out. There are situations when one of the knuckle eyes breaks. This is very rare, but it cannot be ignored. So, when the eye breaks, the wheel turns out almost at a right angle to the body of the “seven”. If this happens while driving, the car instantly loses control.
How to change a part on a VAZ 2109 using method No. 3 without removing the rack and without using a puller
The rotating mechanism assembled with the hub is dismantled. Then the hub itself is knocked out of the axle (possibly with a removable device or a press). It will be necessary to do a wheel alignment.
Execution order:
- After dismantling the caliper, unscrew the two bolts securing the strut.
- Just as described above, we dismantle the rotating mechanism from the ball joints and remove the CV joint. Then, on the table, unscrew the drum from the hub (or do this in advance).
- Remove the protective cover.
- We free the fist from unnecessary elements and clamp it in a vice.
- We knock out the hub, and then the old wheel bearing, or use a vice, press or puller.
- We install the new product, clamp the structure in a vice without distortions, as shown in the photo, and press it into place.
The process is shown in more detail in the video:
Replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ
Choosing a front wheel bearing for a VAZ 2109
The main task when replacing is to ensure a long service life. It’s no secret that the quality of the spare part plays a huge role, and how long the new part will serve you depends on it.
When choosing, be sure to know the exact marking (article or number) of the front bearing. The VAZ 2109 has a double-row angular contact ball type with thick lubricant inside, marking according to GOST - 256907С17 . Foreign equivalent - 309726DA.
Manufacturers of wheel bearings and their articles
| No. | Manufacturer, country | Catalog number | Dimensions, mm | Price, rubles |
| 1 | Pilenga | PW-P 1307 | 34*64*37 | 400 |
| 2 | Torque, Finland | T-12106 | 500 | |
| 3 | Lada (original) | 2108-3103020 | 400 | |
| 4 | ASP Mensan | BCR001 | 540 | |
| 5 | SPZ | 2108-3104020 | 400 |
Read more about manufacturers and prices in the article on replacing front bearings on a VAZ 2110.
It is also useful to read and become familiar with the nuances regarding the dimensions of the part.
It is important to know:
To strengthen the suspension, as well as the reliability and durability of the car enthusiast, roller products are installed in the hub, the marking of which is 537907.
What drives can be installed
When planning to replace old steel wheels with alloy wheels, you should choose either original products or products from well-known manufacturers who care about the quality and safety of their products.
Alloy wheels combine the following useful properties: they are lightweight, practical to use, endowed with sufficient strength and have an attractive appearance, which is aimed at transforming the entire appearance of the car.
The most common among alloy wheels are aluminum products. This is due to the fact that they are resistant to corrosion, meet strength requirements and, in comparison with other alloy wheels, remain relatively inexpensive.
Titanium alloy is the most expensive option. It also meets all the technical specifications, but at the same time has a more attractive appearance. In third place is the option using a magnesium alloy.
The latest models from AvtoVAZ use wheels with a 4x100 mounting pattern. When installing them on a 4x98 hub, you should use studs with an eccentric to compensate for the difference of 2 mm. To install disks with other mounting patterns, you will have to use the appropriate adapters (spacers).
You must understand that installing wheels larger than 15 inches is impossible without interfering with the car’s design.
