Throttle valve for VAZ 2112 - cleaning, repair, replacement

After several years of active use, the throttle assembly becomes seriously dirty and requires immediate cleaning; under the negative influence of crankcase gases, as well as small particles of oil and dust, the operation of the carburetor becomes unstable. Cleaning of the throttle valve (DZ) should be done every 50-60 thousand km, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance from time to time with mandatory partial disassembly of this unit.

SYMPTOMS OF THROTTLE VALVE CONTAMINATION:

1. It is difficult for the engine to switch from high speeds to idle when the accelerator pedal is suddenly released. For example, when you brake or coast in neutral. Instead of a smooth return to speed, they rapidly drop to 400-600 per minute, after which, as a rule, the engine stalls with characteristic shaking or with great difficulty is restored to the required speed.

2. Also, an engine with a dirty throttle assembly has difficulty with “cold” starting, and in some severe cases, “hot” starting. Before starting such an engine, you have to turn the starter for a long time, and the characteristic smell of gasoline can be heard from the exhaust. However, as soon as you slightly open the throttle several times by briefly pressing the gas pedal, the engine “comes to life” and starts.

CAUSES OF THROTTLE VALVE CONTAMINATION

A mixture of air and oil, as well as microscopic dust particles that pass through the air filter from the crankcase ventilation system. When used on a car, this substance slowly covers all internal surfaces, especially in places where there is strong air turbulence, that is, behind the throttle valve, as well as on the idle air control rod. From long-term operation, the thermal gap itself becomes “overgrown” with dirt, and the cross-section of the bypass channel of the idle air regulator in the throttle valve decreases.

Today I will talk about how to clean the throttle valve of a VAZ 2112 with your own hands with a detailed description of the entire process.

CLEANING THE THROTTLE VALVE

This work is carried out on a “cold” engine to avoid burns and other troubles.

From the tool you will need:

• Tortseva at "13".
• Screwdriver Set.
• Fluid for flushing the throttle body; as an option, I can recommend a time-tested cleaner for carburetors - Abro, it is highly effective and is very inexpensive.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE VALVE - STEP BY STEP GUIDE

1. First of all, you need to remove the plastic (decorative) engine cover.

2. Then you need to unscrew the expansion tank cap in order to reduce the pressure in the cooling system.

3. You need to loosen the clamps (see photo, they are indicated by arrows)

4. Remove the forced ventilation hose from the air pipe. Carry out a visual inspection if you find traces of oil in the air pipe - most likely the thin forced ventilation channel in the throttle assembly is clogged. If this is so, then all crankcase gases, together with oil particles, go through a large ventilation branch.

5. Take a screwdriver and loosen the two clamps, then remove the throttle body heating hoses, they can be plugged for a while with something like bad spark plugs.

6. Remove the hose of the gas tank ventilation system; to do this, you need to unscrew the clamp.

7. All that remains is to remove the cable and unscrew the two fastening nuts of the throttle assembly.

NOW DIRECTLY ABOUT HOW TO CLEAN THE THROTTLE VALVE OF A VAZ 2112

1. Take the previously prepared cleaner and thoroughly clean the throttle valve, including all channels of the assembly. Pay SPECIAL attention to the calibrated positive crankcase ventilation duct; as a rule, it is so coked that you have to use a needle or a steel spoke to clean it.

2. Unscrew the two bolts and remove the idle air control (IAC). Properly rinse its channel in the throttle body, pay attention to its condition, the service life of the IAC is approximately 100 thousand km. If during the inspection you find that the idle air control rod is very dirty, sticks, has a lot of play or wear, I recommend replacing it with a new one.

3. If the gasket in the throttle assembly has a “human” appearance, there is no need to change it, but if it is damaged, replace it.

For those who like photos in the “before and after” style, I specially compared two images for greater clarity and demonstration of the work done.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. That's all there is to cleaning the throttle valve, put everything back together and check the result. The result will be incredible, I can say from personal experience that after I cleaned the throttle valve the car seemed to have been replaced, everything changed, the engine performance, idle speed and sound changed so much that it seemed to me that the engine of my car had been replaced, or I had done something wrong "in the adjustments.

While driving, an unprecedented throttle response and sensitivity came from somewhere, the engine began to gain speed faster and “eat” less fuel. The idle speed has stabilized, in short, the result is simply stunning. I hope your throttle valve cleaning also did not go without a trace... Thank you for your attention, take care of yourself and your car.

Superficial intervention or deep cleaning?

There are two ways to clean the throttle valve. The first is a superficial intervention that does not require complete removal of the entire device. And the second is a complete cleaning, which must be performed in cases where your car’s engine is not working well.

To perform the first type of cleaning, you will need a pre-purchased cleaning product and a fine brush. Open the hood, remove the corrugation, it goes from the air filter housing to the throttle valve. You will see a valve - it is easy to recognize by its completely round shape. Treat it with a chemical and let it sit for a few minutes, then remove the dirt with a brush. If necessary, use a rag. Repeat the procedure several more times until the flapper valve turns a bright color. This work can be carried out once every 3–5 thousand kilometers, fortunately, it does not take much time.

Removing the corrugation from the throttle valve

For more detailed cleaning of the throttle valve in a VAZ 2110, you need to completely remove the entire injector mechanism. It is also recommended to replace the gasket and O-ring, which are included in the throttle valve repair kit, which is easy to buy at any auto store. Before starting cleaning work, remove the terminals from the battery.

Then disconnect all air pipes connected to the throttle body. After this, remove the fastenings of the throttle cable and unscrew the throttle valve itself. It is attached to two bolts that are screwed into the engine housing.

Electronic sensors must be disconnected carefully to avoid damaging them.

Disconnecting the air pipes of the throttle assembly

After that, take a chemical and treat the entire body and all the grooves of the throttle body. Do this until you completely get rid of the dirt. You can also clean the air flow meter sensor. To do this, carefully treat its hairs with a cleaning product and remove the dirt with a brush. Give the entire device time to dry completely before reassembling. Do not forget to change the gasket and ring, which are located in the corrugation

Also pay attention to whether all air pipes are intact. Perhaps some require replacement with new ones

For maximum effect, you can also replace the air filter.

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Causes of pollution

The causes of clogging of the remote control are most often exhaust crankcase gases, which carry particles of burnt oil and soot. Small crankcase ventilation is connected directly to the throttle corrugation. The air entering the cylinders mixes with crankcase gases and, passing through the diaphragm, clogs it.

The throttle can also become clogged due to a poor-quality air filter or its loose fit, then dust particles can pass through the filter and clog not only the remote control, but also cause significant harm to the engine.

Correction of a factory miscalculation

It is quite common for a throttle assembly to come out of the factory with something that cannot even be called a defect, but can still be attributed to design errors. In theory, air should flow into the space behind the throttle, for which a channel of approximately 2.5 mm is specially made.

But the whole problem is that this channel was pressed against the wall of the receiver, thus blocking the possibility of air flow. A slight modification of the throttle assembly can help in this case.

Bored channel for air flow in the throttle

To do this, just take a file and use it to make a small groove in the indicated place. 2 - 3 mm will be enough. But before doing this, it is necessary to remove the throttle.

On a VAZ 2110, the throttle assembly is removed in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect the connectors of the sensor that regulates the position of the throttle valve, its drive cable and the XX regulator;
2. We partially drain the coolant;
3. Next is the removal of the air hose located on the body of the mass air flow sensor. Why do you just need to loosen the clamp;
4. We also loosen the clamps: where the throttle pipe is attached to the air hose; where the hose of the 2nd crankcase exhaust circuit is attached to the cylinder head cover pipe. We remove the connected hoses - the air and 2nd crankcase ventilation circuits;
5. Having loosened the clamp, remove the hose of the 1st crankcase gas exhaust circuit from the throttle assembly fitting;
6. Having loosened the clamps, we remove the hoses supplying and discharging coolant;
7. You will need a wrench with a 13mm head, with which you need to unscrew the nuts securing the throttle assembly to the receiver on a VAZ 2110;
8. It is now possible to remove the throttle assembly from the studs;
9. It remains to remove the sealing gasket and, if your VAZ 2110 has a system that traps gasoline vapors, disconnect the hose for purging the adsorber.

Even if the purpose of removing the throttle was to modify it, still do not forget that for stable operation it also needs periodic cleaning

There is, frankly, nothing complicated in this procedure, but it will help the engine perform better, which is quite important

For cleaning you will need:

• short and long screwdrivers;
• toothbrush (soft, or just old);
• cotton buds;
• cleaning agent;
• rubber or cotton gloves.

For cleaning to give the desired result, it must be carried out very carefully. First, you can go through all the cavities with a toothbrush, at the same time cleaning the idle speed control (it must also be removed). Further, more delicate, cleaning is done with cotton swabs

Pay special attention to the area where the throttle valve is located and the place where the XX regulator fits.

Please note that cleaning the crankcase ventilation duct with conventional means is not possible, but it can be easily done using the foot pump available in each trunk. The diameter of the fitting is similar to the wheel one, you just need to add cleaning agent and pump your foot several times.

If you have problems mentioned at the beginning that started recently, cleaning should fix them. If there were problems from the beginning, do not forget about improvements. Sometimes only replacing the throttle assembly helps.

REMOVAL OF THE UNIT

The purpose of the throttle assembly (abbreviated as DU) is to regulate the air supply to the engine cylinders. Thus, it controls the enrichment or leanness of the fuel mixture.

The appearance of remote control malfunctions causes improper operation (interruptions) of the motor. If problems arise, the remote control is usually replaced with a new one, but often such problems are solved by removing and washing the remote control yourself.

What you need for cleaning

To remove and clean the assembly you will need:

• Screwdriver Set
• Head "13" with ratchet
• Old toothbrush with stiff bristles
• Cleaner
• Cotton swabs
• Latex gloves

Removal

Replacing the throttle valve on a VAZ 2112 or flushing is performed (begins) by removing the unit, for this:

• We remove the terminals of the VAZ battery, de-energizing the electrical network of the motor
• Disconnect the connectors from the throttle position sensor, idle speed control, and also remove the cable from the throttle valve actuator
• To avoid losses, partially drain the coolant
• Then loosen the clamp securing the air hose to the throttle body
• Then a clamp securing the ventilation hose of the 2nd circuit (crankcase gases) to the pipe on the cylinder head cover
• Now you can remove the air hose along with the crankcase ventilation hose

After releasing the clamps, remove the air hose

• Take a Phillips screwdriver and loosen the clamp, then remove the hose for crankcase ventilation (from the 1st circuit) from the remote control fitting
• Then we loosen the clamps securing the hoses that discharge and supply coolant, and remove these hoses
• Now, using the “13” head, unscrew the nuts that secure the throttle assembly to the receiver, photo below

Using a ratchet and a socket “13”, remove a pair of nuts that secure the unit to the receiver

• Then we remove our throttle assembly from the studs and loosen the clamp to disconnect the hose for purging the adsorber (this is necessary if your car has a system for collecting fuel vapors)
• Carefully remove the sealing gasket under the assembly
• If you have never carried out the steps to clean the remote control, then it will most likely be necessary to replace the gasket
• Then we unscrew the screws that hold the IAC (idle speed regulator) and then remove the regulator (don’t worry, the holes for attaching the regulator are designed in such a way that it will not be possible to mix it up when installing it)

Cleaning

Instructions for cleaning the remote control, it was not difficult to guess, require the use of a cleaning agent, with cotton swabs and a toothbrush:

• We clean all channels, hidden cavities, in addition, special attention should be paid to the place for landing the IAC, as well as the area that is located next to the damper
• After finishing the work, the unit should be perfectly clean.
• Don’t forget to clean the crankcase ventilation duct at the same time.
• The size of the channel is large, which is why it is most convenient to blow through it with a cleaning agent
• It is more convenient to carry out blowing with a foot pump, since the diameter of the hose fitting coincides with the wheel
• And the last stage is replacing worn out remote control pipes and blowing the rest with compressed air
• Such procedures can significantly extend the life of your mass air flow sensor.

Assembly

Installation of the remote control is strictly in the disassembly sequence, only in reverse. A cleaned remote control unit makes engine operation stable at idle, and the engine speed no longer fluctuates. There is a clear response when the gas pedal is operated. Additionally, the throttle assembly may need to be modified, but first study the video on such modifications.

Electronic throttle valve: how does it work and how to repair it?

The trend in automotive engineering in recent years has been the systematic removal of the driver from direct control of the car. So far, thank God, we have not reached the point of losing the rigid connection of our arms and legs with the turning wheels and brakes, but everything is clearly heading that way... At least, not a single car these days is produced without an electronic throttle, with which we We do not give a direct command to the throttle “more air!” with the right foot through the cable, and express a wish to the engine control unit, which itself sends a command to the damper. Is this good or bad, and how to live with it?

Background

It is generally accepted that the so-called E-gas is a technology of the last decade or so. In its pure form - yes, but the integrated electric drive in throttle valves appeared much earlier - back in the 80s. In those years, on the damper axis, on one side there was a gas sector connected to the accelerator pedal with a classic cable (yes, the “wheel” that is driven by a cable from the pedal is called the “gas sector”!), and on the other side, the damper axis connected through a gear transmission to a small electric motor.

Actually, the motor had no influence on the behavior of the car when moving - the connection with the driver’s foot was old-school, mechanical and clear: as you press, so will you go! And the electric motor started working only in idle mode, adjusting the speed of the damper slightly during warming up and after warming up, and also slightly adding gas when turning on powerful consumers of electricity and torque - air conditioning in the summer, power steering in the cold, various heating systems, etc. A little later, the functions of the motor in the throttle expanded - with an almost unchanged design, electronic commands were added: it began to control not only idle speed, but also speed while driving - when the cruise control is turned on and when the traction control system is activated.

Now everything has reached the “apophygea of ​​technology” - the mechanical connection between the damper and the gas pedal has disappeared in principle, and all commands - both from the driver’s foot and from service systems - are received by the throttle only through the mediation of the engine control unit. There are three reasons for this:

• Environmental requirements;
• Increased fuel economy;
• Convenient implementation of many modern car functions.

Electronic throttle these days

So, the direct connection between the throttle valve and the pedal has been completely and completely abolished. As I already said, by pressing the pedal we send a signal to the control unit, which in turn analyzes the situation and many parameters, and then issues a command to supply air. At the same time, it must be said that over a good ten years of development of the tandem of an electronic gas pedal and an electronic throttle in its modern understanding, the system has successfully outgrown a number of childhood diseases - both purely physical and software.

Wearing sliding contacts of damper position sensors have been replaced by non-contact inductive coupling, and many new functions have appeared - not so obvious as to take a line in the technical description of the car, but quite important in the complex.

For example, the gas pedal travel has become non-linear, which makes it possible to better control the car when starting to move: with a powerful engine (where the damper has a large diameter), the risk of excessively rushing forward when lightly touching the pedal has disappeared - the electronic throttle reacts deliberately sluggishly in the first quarter of the gas pedal travel .

E-gas allows for the most optimal acceleration in a car with a turbocharged engine, significantly combating turbo lag and providing smoother acceleration from the bottom. E-gas will also help in the “pedal to the floor” mode, when in the case of a classic cable damper, the first moments of non-optimal combustion of the mixture occur, and seconds are lost during acceleration. Of course, we cannot fail to mention the effective automatic engine traction control system to combat drift and slippage of the drive wheels.

Why is it needed?

The throttle position sensor is responsible for determining the current throttle position. Depending on this, the fuel supply system changes the amount of fuel supplied under one or another operating mode of the power unit.

If problems arise with it, you can contact a service station so as not to waste your energy and nerves. But in practice, changing the TPS yourself is quite simple, plus you will save a decent amount of money.

The desired regulator is located on the side of the throttle pipe on the throttle valve axis.

Features of work

The TPS is essentially a variable resistor, one output of which is supplied with 5 Volt power. The second contact is connected to ground, and the third is connected to the controller.

When you press the gas pedal, the voltage changes. The sensor monitors the output voltage on the controller, thereby regulating and monitoring the quality of the supplied air-fuel mixture. This directly depends on the opening angle of the damper itself.

If for some reason this regulator fails, a catastrophe will not occur, since another sensor, the mass air flow sensor, will temporarily take over its functions.

This does not mean at all that the TPS can not be changed. Each regulator has its own functions, so there is no point in transferring the tasks of the TPS to the MAF.

What is a throttle valve? And possible problems with it

Essentially, the throttle body is a valve located between the air intake and the intake manifold.

In an electronically controlled fuel-injected vehicle, the throttle position sensor and airflow sensor communicate with the computer, which delivers the appropriate amount of fuel needed to the injectors.

In the closed position, the throttle body cuts off almost all air flow, but when it is wide open, it will make your engine roar.

In older carbureted engines, the choke is built into the carburetor.

While driving, you constantly open and close the throttle (without even noticing) every time you use the gas pedal.

When this happens, the throttle position sensor tells the ECU that you have pressed on the gas.

And the airflow sensor detects more air and sends a message to the car's computer to increase the amount of fuel supplied by the injectors.

Modern engine with throttle body

More modern cars use an electronic sensor to tell the on-board computer how much fuel to deliver based on the incoming air flow.

In the old days, the gas pedal (accelerator) was physically connected to the throttle body by a cable, but today, modern cars use sensors and servo motors to perform this task.

Is your throttle body working properly?

When the throttle stops working properly, the engine speed may be too high or very low.

A good air filter is critical to throttle body performance because the buildup of dirt on its surface over time can cause the rotary flat valve to become blocked, causing idle problems and poor drivability.

Depending on how the throttle body is positioned on your car's engine, it can also accumulate carbon and oil residue.

At low engine speeds, you may even notice your car stalling at a red light.

Reduced engine speed is typically the result of a sticky throttle body and restricted airflow, which inhibits the ignition of fuel in your engine's combustion chambers.

An unusually high or inconsistent idle speed may be the result of too much air passing through the throttle body.

Any of these problems can significantly impact your engine's performance and will most likely cause your Check Engine Light to come on.

In modern cars, most throttle problems are likely to be electrical related.

It is important not to move the valve in the throttle body by hand!

Some car owners do this when trying to clean the valve, but it can confuse your car's computer about the rest position of your valve.

If the throttle position sensor (TPS) or airflow sensor is on the throttle body, be careful with it.

Removing or removing the TPS may require recalibration at a later date.

Mass air flow (MAF) sensors are very sensitive to contamination and require a special solvent to clean them.

Other throttle body problems may include faulty idle air control (IAC) valves or manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensors.

The IAC valve allows the computer to control idle speed by releasing a small amount of air into the air intake. The MAP sensor turns engine manifold vacuum into an electronic signal that tells the computer how much fuel to pump.

An engine with a high idle speed that rises and falls could either have a vacuum leak or a torn intake hose.

A persistently high idle may indicate that the IAC valve is constantly open and the mechanical throttle limiter may need to be adjusted.

Source

Adjusting the throttle valve on VAZ-2108, 2109 and 21099

The throttle valve is one of the most important elements of a car. It is part of the intake system of a gasoline internal combustion engine and is responsible for supplying air to the engine during the formation of the air-fuel mixture. When the valve opens, the fuel mixture becomes richer, and when it closes, on the contrary, it becomes leaner.

The throttle valve can be compared to an air valve. As soon as it opens, the pressure of the surrounding atmosphere and the intake system is equalized. At the moment when the “valve” closes, the opposite situation occurs - the pressure in the system drops to a minimum level.

Main types

Throttle valves can have different designs, depending on the type of carburetor:

— in carburetors of constant vacuum and with falling current, such a damper has the form of a spring;

— in a horizontal type carburetor, the throttle valve has the form of a gate located vertically. Its movement allows you to adjust the cross-section of the diffuser, in the area of ​​which the damper moves;

— in gasoline injection systems, this unit is a separate device, the task of which is to dose air and transfer it further through the system to the manifold.

It is also worth noting that throttle valves can vary in type of actuator - the latter can be mechanical or electrical. What are their differences? Everything is simple here.

1. Electrically controlled throttle valve:

— allows you to adjust XX. This is possible by moving the damper in one direction or another;

— there is no mechanical “communication” between the accelerator pedal and the damper itself.

Electronic systems are more reliable and accurate, which is why they are used in most cars. The system includes an ECU, a group of input sensors, an actuator, switches (installed on the clutch and brake pedals), and a sensor that fixes the position of the accelerator pedal. If additional options are available, the system may involve a brake system, climate control or cruise control.

1. A mechanically driven throttle valve is installed only on old (including domestic) cars. Modern manufacturers have long abandoned this control option. The main difference between this system is that the throttle valve and gas pedal are connected by a metal cable.

Basic faults

Throttle valve problems are easy to identify. For example, when accelerating, you actively press the accelerator pedal, but the car is in no hurry to carry out the command. Such “dullness” is most often explained by problems with the adjustment of this unit. Of course, the remote control unit itself can also fail, but most often the problem is in the damper.

In addition, signs of a malfunctioning damper include:

— “swimming” of idle speed;

— there is no increased speed when starting a cold engine;

- setting the power unit to “cold” or “hot” can cause problems;

— if the gearbox is equipped with an automatic transmission, there may be a jerk when switching to the “Drive” position;

Tuning by replacement

The standard valve (throttle assembly) usually has a diameter of 46 millimeters; many fans of various tunings decide to replace this part with an alternative one:

• VAZ 2112 throttle valve 52 has a larger diameter (there are also valves of 54 and 56 millimeters)
• Is there any benefit from such tuning?
• In various online stores they often offer to replace the standard 46 mm throttle body (DU) and install 52, 54 or 56 mm
• The product description says that an enlarged throttle body (also known as the throttle body) leads to a decrease in air flow speed, which improves the performance of the air intake system
• The effect of installing an alternative damper will be clearly visible when using a zero-resistance filter in the system
• We recommend installing a unit with a diameter of 52mm, because... the diameter of its air inlet for a standard receiver is 53mm

The valve is standard (standard) on the left and new (increased flow diameter) on the right

• In order to install a remote control of a different diameter, as a rule, nothing needs to be modified
• The maximum necessary action is a small trimming of the gasket (this is most often necessary when installing a 56mm throttle assembly)

The following positive effects are noticed after such an installation:

• The car becomes more agile
• Problems with idle speed disappear
• The gas pedal also becomes more responsive.

Installation disadvantages:

• Fuel consumption increases, although many believe that the BC gives incorrect readings and consumption does not change
• Some owners see the effect exclusively on 16-valve engines

The picture we described above may appear completely different:

• All the positive effect that many people notice when installing a larger diameter remote control usually appears because the old remote control already needed cleaning and naturally the motor was not working correctly
• After installing a (clean) new remote control, the engine starts working in its normal mode, this seems like a “new breath”
• In other words, all the described effects appear after regular cleaning of the remote control.
• And besides this, after replacing the remote control, with a larger diameter you will have new problems with the operation of the motor that did not exist before
• This is due to a violation of the ratio of gasoline and air, which the ECU is no longer able to correct.
• And instead of simply returning the remote control to the standard diameter, the owners are recommended to replace the firmware, the price of which is higher, but there is no point
• There is also an opinion that a remote control with a diameter of 52, 54 or 56 millimeters is a completely useless thing, and only installed in combination with other engine tunings produces a noticeable effect
• It remains unclear whether this effect is caused by remote control or other modifications to the engine
• After all, if on a turbo engine with a power of no more than 200 horsepower, standard 46mm dampers are left and their work is quite enough

Preventive measures

The DZ has a long service life and rarely breaks down. But mechanical damage to the housing itself may occur, or repair work must be carried out in the engine system. Then it or its components can be replaced. The sensor is always in the risk zone. It cannot be repaired and often needs to be replaced with a new one.

To prevent damage to this unit, it must be cleaned regularly. According to the manufacturer's recommendation, this should be done when changing the oil or after 20,000 km. mileage If these recommended preventive measures are taken, then the throttle valve and its sensor can serve the car owner for more than one year and subsequently will not need to be replaced.

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Malfunctions

Symptoms of the problem can manifest themselves in different ways, but this mainly affects the engine’s throttle response.

Signs of a malfunction of the TPS, indicating its breakdown:

• difficult starting of a cold engine;
• unstable idling until the engine stops completely;
• forcing the gas causes failure of the engine followed by a sharp increase in speed;
• idle mode is accompanied by increased speed;
• fuel consumption increases unjustifiably;
• the temperature indicator tends to go into the red zone;
• From time to time, the “Check Engine” message appears on the dashboard.

Worn resistive sensor track:

The main symptoms of a malfunction of the VAZ-2110 TPS: how to check them

Owners of VAZ-2110 cars often have to repair their vehicle. And the consequence of repair work can be both significant breakdowns and minor malfunctions. What type of failure is a malfunction of the throttle position sensor? What is this part responsible for in a car? How can we determine that this particular part is no longer functioning correctly? Read about it in our article.

What is TPS in a VAZ-2110 car?

The throttle position sensor is abbreviated as TPS among motorists. This part is used in several types of engines:

1. Gasoline injection type.
2. Single injection type.
3. Diesel engines.

TPS is also known as a throttle valve potentiometer. This is due to the fact that the sensor is designed to function as a variable resistor. The sensor itself is installed in the engine compartment - the place of fixation is the throttle pipe. The mechanism of operation of the sensor is as follows: depending on the position and degree of opening of the throttle valve, the resistance also changes. That is, the level of the value of such resistance depends on the pressing of the gas pedal. If the pedal is not pressed, the throttle valve will be closed and the resistance will be minimal. The opposite is true when the damper is open. Accordingly, the voltage across the TPS, which is directly proportional to the resistance, will also change.

The control of such changes is carried out by the electronic control system; it is the one that receives all signals from the TPS and supplies fuel using the fuel system.

So, at the maximum voltage of the signal contact of the throttle position sensor, the fuel system of the VAZ-2110 car will supply the largest portion of fuel.

Thus, the more accurate the TPS indicators, the better the VAZ-2110 electronic system adjusts the engine to the correct operating mode.

Communication of the throttle valve with other automotive systems of the VAZ-2110

The throttle valve of a VAZ-2110 car is a component of the engine intake system and is directly connected to a large number of other vehicle systems. These include the following systems:

• directional stability;
• anti-blocking;
• anti-slip;
• anti-slip;
• cruise control.

In addition, there are those systems that are controlled by the electronics of the gearbox. After all, it is this throttle valve that regulates the flow of air into the car system and is responsible for the quality composition of the fuel-air mixture.

TPS design

The throttle position sensor can be of two types:

• film;
• magnetic or contactless.

In its design, it resembles an air valve - in the open position the pressure corresponds to atmospheric pressure, in the closed position it drops to a vacuum state. The TPS includes DC and AC resistors (each resistance is 8 ohms). The process of opening and closing the damper is monitored by the controller, with subsequent adjustment of the fuel supply.

If at least one symptom of a malfunction occurs in the functioning system of this sensor, then fuel may be supplied to the engine either in excess or in deficiency. Such malfunctions in engine operation are reflected in the engine of the VAZ-2110 car and on its gearbox.

Characteristic symptoms of a malfunctioning TPS condition

Thanks to the correct functioning of the throttle position sensor, the fuel system of the VAZ-2110 car engine works with a smoothing effect. That is, the vehicle moves smoothly, and the gas pedal responds well to pressure. Therefore, a malfunction of the TPS can be noticed almost immediately by the following signs:

1. Poor engine starting.
2. Noticeable increase in fuel consumption.
3. The car's movements are intermittent.
4. The idle speed of the engine is noticeable when running.
5. The Check e light comes on on the dashboard
6. The car accelerates poorly due to delays in acceleration.
7. Popping sounds are heard in the intake manifold.

Of course, these signs of a faulty sensor may not all be observed at once. But even if you notice only one of the above symptoms, it is worth carrying out computer diagnostics of the vehicle at a service center.

TPS problems and their diagnosis

As you know, eternal parts for cars have not yet been invented. And the breakdown of the TPS can be foreseen; for this you need to inquire about the possible reasons for the failure of this part. Here are the main ones:

1. Abrasion of the sprayed base layer, which serves to move the slider (the result is incorrect TPS readings).
2. Failure of the movable type core (the result is deterioration of the contacts between the slider and the resistive layer).

How can you figure out problems with this sensor yourself? To do this, you can independently diagnose the operation of your diagnostics:

1. Listen to the VAZ-2110 engine idling:
   the breakdown is obvious if you notice that its speed is in a “floating” state;
2. Quickly release the gas pedal:
   a malfunction is present if the engine stops after this action.
3. Pick up speed:
   There is a problem with the TPS if the car starts to move jerkily, which indicates an incorrect supply of fuel to the system.

Experts say that most often the sensor fails when the resistive track is heavily contaminated or is completely broken. To verify the opposite, you need to check the working condition of the TPS.

Checking the operation of the throttle position sensor

To check the TPS yourself, it is not necessary to call an auto electrician for consultation. To do this you need a multimeter or voltmeter. Next, experts offer step-by-step instructions for checking the sensor.

The first step is to turn the key in the ignition switch, take the voltage readings between the sensor slider contact and the minus. In normal condition, the indicator will be up to 0.7 V.

The second step is to turn the plastic sector and open the damper, and then take measurements again. In the normal state of the sensor, the device will show a result of 4 V.

The third step is to turn on the ignition completely (as a result of this the connector will stretch out), measure the resistance between the slider and any terminal. When rotating the sector, you must monitor the measuring device:

• when the multimeter or voltmeter needle moves smoothly, the sensor is working;
• when the needle on the meter shows sudden changes, the DPPZ is faulty.

Once the sensor is faulty, it can be adjusted or replaced. The VAZ-2110 car repair service center will tell you how to do the right thing.

Potentiometer

In other words, the potentiometer changes the opening angle of the damper and thereby affects the controller. When the damper is closed, the voltage does not exceed 0.7 V, and when fully open it reaches 4V. This is how fuel supply is controlled.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=0VSHGo5dcBU

If the throttle valve stops responding to impulses emanating from the position sensor, the following breakdowns may occur:

• Floating speed when the engine is running. Increased idle speed;
• The engine stalls when switching to neutral;
• Uncontrolled fuel consumption;
• The engine is running at half power;
• The CHEK light is on - check if the throttle valve is working correctly.

The procedure for adapting the throttle valve zero on LADA

Jerking when changing gears or when starting the car. In some cases, adapting the throttle valve zero and adapting the misfire diagnostic function will help solve these problems. The adaptation process does not require special equipment and can be done with your own hands.

When and how to do it yourself

When to do it

adaptation of the throttle valve zero and adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function:

• After replacing the ECU controller or resetting the controller using a scan tool.
• After replacing the throttle assembly.

Throttle zero adaptation procedure

:

• When the car is stationary, you must turn on the ignition, wait 30 seconds, turn off the ignition, wait until the main relay turns off.

Adaptation will be interrupted

, If:

• the engine turns over;
• the car is moving;
• the accelerator pedal is pressed;
• engine temperature is below 5 °C or above 100 °C;
• Ambient temperature is below 5 °C.

Adaptation procedure

Misfire diagnostic functions:

• warm up the engine to operating temperature (parameter value “Coolant temperature” = 60.90 °C);
• accelerate the car in 2nd gear until higher crankshaft speeds are reached (parameter value “Engine crankshaft speed” = 4000 min-1) and perform engine braking (“Engine crankshaft speed” = 1000 min-1);
• Perform engine braking six times in one trip.

This adaptation procedure is specified in the technological instructions for LADA cars.

Owner reviews

Owners of LADA XRAY who independently performed the throttle valve zero adaptation procedure note that the car stopped twitching and acceleration became smooth.

Some reviews from Drive2.ru (link to post):

Let us remind you that we previously published an information letter from AVTOVAZ, which tells us what to do in case of vibrations and jerks when starting off a LADA car.

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REMOVING THE THROTTLE VALVE

Before removing the throttle valve on the VAZ 2114, let's remember where this remote control is located on the car.

Why the damper is removed should already be clear that this is necessary to clean it and, if necessary, to replace damaged parts.

To perform this operation you need to prepare the following tools:

• Set of Phillips screwdrivers;
• Socket wrench set to “13”;
• Liquid used to flush carburetors, or similar.

If all this is present, proceed to removal. Let's talk in more detail about how to remove the throttle valve. To do this, you have to do the following:

It is necessary to provide access to the engine compartment, that is, you need to lift the hood of the car; Disconnect the terminals from the battery; It is necessary to relieve excess pressure in the engine cooling system. To do this, just open the cap of the expansion tank; The next step is to remove the plastic cover that covers the top of the motor (if there is one); Now you have to remove the hose for forced ventilation

Don’t forget to inspect it too; if it contains oil residues, it must also be cleaned;

Next, the driver will have to disconnect all connectors from the remote sensing sensors and remove the inlet pipe; The next operation must be carried out carefully and carefully, since the remote control cooling pipe will have to be removed. It is necessary to prepare plugs in advance and close the coolant flow path with them;

Remove the damper drive; At the last stage, remove the nuts that secure the remote control and remove it.

The removed mechanism is in your hands; all that remains is to clean it and put it back in its place.

How to replace the throttle valve of a VAZ 2112 with your own hands

VAZ 2112 throttle valve 54
Replacing the VAZ 2112 throttle valve is carried out in the event of a breakdown of the unit, in other cases it is simply removed and washed (cleaned), and repaired if possible. However, today there is a kind of tuning, when the throttle valve on a VAZ 2112 56 (diameter 56) is installed instead of the 54 or 52.

A similar procedure is performed in order to increase the amount of atmospheric air entering the combustion chambers.

Cleaning Rules

Before removing and cleaning the throttle valve, you need to buy a special cleaner for it. There are many manufacturers, there is enough choice. Among the inexpensive ones, Abro is effective.

Disassembly:

You need to remove the engine cover (decorative plastic); Reduce the pressure in the cooling system by unscrewing the expansion tank cap; Loosen the clamps and remove the hose from the forced ventilation air pipe; Use a screwdriver to remove the heating hoses for the remote control (it is advisable to plug them for now); Disconnect the cable and unscrew the fastening nuts. Now removal of the throttle assembly is possible; Use a cleaner to wash everything very thoroughly. Most often, it is necessary to use a needle to check whether the forced ventilation channel is coked, and also to clean it; Cleaning is necessary for the idle air regulator, for which it must be removed and inspected. If you find that it is jamming and adjustment is impossible, then it needs replacement; After washing, reassemble everything as it was

Please make sure that the gasket is intact and in good condition, then you can leave it. If this is not the case, then only replacement.

Do-it-yourself damper cleaning

After a long period of use, the throttle valve becomes dirty under the influence of crankcase gases and small particles of engine oil, which negatively affects the operation of the entire engine.
On average, preventive cleaning of the damper needs to be done every 40–50 thousand km, but ideally every second cleaning should be carried out with complete disassembly of the unit and washing of all its components. The procedure for cleaning the throttle valve itself is not difficult; the main thing is to remove it when the engine has cooled down so as not to get burned.

To do the work at home, you will need a 13mm wrench, a set of screwdrivers and cleaning fluid. After removing the assembly, and this will not be difficult if you have the preparation, take the liquid and thoroughly clean the throttle valve, also pay attention to the forced ventilation duct. Sometimes it gets coated with a thick layer of plaque, so feel free to use a needle or a steel knitting needle for a perfect clean. Pay attention to the gasket in the throttle assembly; if it is defective, replace it. After this, reassemble and install the part in reverse order.

If done conscientiously, you will feel the forgotten power of your car and responsiveness to the commands of the accelerator pedal. If this does not seem enough, then you can think about updating the throttle valve on your VAZ 2112.

Throttle position sensor

This sensor is a potentiometer. When you press the gas pedal, the position of the damper and the voltage supplied to the controller changes. When closed, the voltage is 0.7V, when fully open it is 4V. In accordance with these data, the sensor controls the fuel supply.

If a malfunction of the position sensor occurs, the controller will not be able to correctly determine the position of the damper. This results in the following malfunctions:

• in all engine operating modes, the speed begins to fluctuate; at idle, the speed will be increased;
• when you switch off the gear (neutral) while driving, the engine may stall;
• Sometimes the CHECK light may come on.

To check the functionality of the position sensor, you can use a multimeter. With the ignition on, the probes are connected to connectors B and C. Changing the position of the damper should lead to a change in voltage.

Differences between E-GAS and mechanical.

E-GAS damper
The electronic damper is more modern and unpretentious; it does not have the problematic IAC and TPS sensors. All adjustments of the electronic throttle occur precisely by the position of the damper itself. Changing the position of the damper in the assembly is carried out by a worm mechanism receiving signals from the electronic gas pedal.

Mechanical damper

In a mechanical throttle, a separate sensor, called TPS, is responsible for the valve position, and the IAC is responsible for the idle speed. Changing its position is driven by a cable connected to the accelerator pedal inside the car.

Cleaning the remote control

If these signs appear, it is recommended to clean the throttle valve on the VAZ 2110. To carry out this operation, special auto chemicals are used. The most commonly used product is to clean carburetors.

Cleaning the throttle body will cost much less than buying a new throttle body for a VAZ 2110. The price of a new unit is several times higher.

To clean the throttle unit with your own hands, you must use the following materials and tools:

• screwdriver;
• set of tools with keys and heads;
• new throttle body gasket;
• protective gloves;
• carburetor cleaner;
• ear sticks for hard-to-reach places;
• old toothbrush.

The procedure for cleaning the throttle valve on a VAZ 2110:

1. Raise the hood of the car. Remove the terminals from the battery. It is enough to throw off the negative terminal. To do this, we use a key set to 10. 2. Dismantle the receiver. Loosen the clamps on the 5 pipes. We remove the pipes. Four pipes are visible from above, the fifth is located under the throttle valve assembly. 3. Disconnect the connectors from the sensor on the throttle valve and the idle air control (IAC). 4. Disconnect the throttle control cable. 5. Unscrew the throttle block from the receiver with a key. 6. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the idle speed control crosswise. We remove the IAC from the throttle block. 7. Using a cleaning product, an old toothbrush and ear sticks, we clean the throttle unit

We pay special attention to the channels and landing sites of the IAC. Remove carbon deposits and dig

Before using a special carburetor cleaner, you can wash the unit with plain gasoline. 8. It is recommended to apply lubricant to the idle speed control rod. To do this, we use silicone grease, which will help extend the service life of the IAC and the throttle unit as a whole. 9. Assemble the throttle assembly. We screw it to the receiver, not forgetting to install a new gasket. We connect all pipes and connectors.

An important part of the throttle valve is the “nickle”. Some car enthusiasts bore out the chamber of the assembly and install a “penny” of increased diameter

This can achieve a more enriched combustible mixture. Motor power increases. It is better to entrust the engine tuning operation to a motor specialist. You should not carry out such an operation on your own, without good preparation.

Another reason for unstable behavior of an internal combustion engine may be a faulty throttle sensor. On a VAZ 2110, you can replace the sensor yourself. Its price is low. It is recommended to use a non-contact sensor. Its cost is slightly higher, but the sensor will last significantly longer.

You can diagnose the sensor yourself. For this you need a tester. Let's look at it step by step:

1. The ignition must be turned on. We measure the voltage between the potentiometer contact and the “minus”. The correct value on the voltmeter is 0.7 Volts.
2. We turn the plastic sector to the limit, thereby opening the damper completely. The voltmeter should show 4 Volts.
3. The ignition should be turned off, disconnect the connector from the sensor and measure the resistance of the potentiometer of the remote sensing sensor.
4. We smoothly turn the sector and observe the tester readings. If the sensor is working properly, the needle will move without jerking and smoothly. If this is not the case, then the throttle sensor should be replaced.

If cleaning and replacing the idle speed sensor does not solve the problem of smooth running, you need to contact a motor mechanic; it may be necessary to conduct additional engine diagnostics or adjust the idle speed control. This operation is carried out using special devices.

VAZ 2112, Stalls when changing gear

If you just press the clutch, what happens? If you add gas at this moment, what happens? There is a speed sensor in the gearbox. Maybe it's acting up or there's a mechanical jam in the box. It might be in the clutch. Also listen to what sounds may appear there at these moments.

Post edited by Wizard

— Feb 14 2011, 15:12

Posts: 78 white Priora B704OV

still a child

Posts: 4,396 From: childhood SuzukaVod

If the check light does not light, you can try flushing the throttle assembly. Helps.

Posts: 2,414

Posts: 1,518 Shitty fluence

What cable? Is it really true that the speed drops when switching, I'm sinning with the firmware or IAC.

Posts: 2,414

So I, too, because of one mega diagnostician, changed the IAC, the problem did not disappear, but this cable in the photo, it is hidden there behind the casing, just tighten it just a little and the problem really disappeared

Attached images

Posts: 2,414

Posts: 78 white Priora B704OV

But just after my timing belt was removed, this problem arose. Previously, the revs also dropped, but not to such an extent that the car stalled. So what should I do?? Check the timing marks or turn this bolt)) The valves do not make noise or knock)) The engine runs like a clock)

Post edited by Anton0235

— Feb 14 2011, 17:48

Posts: 2,414

Posts: 1,518 Shitty fluence

I just can’t understand how you hooked this up with a cable like that. In idle mode it is no longer aisle, it only opens the throttle valve, but in idle mode it is closed. It turns out that you pulled the cable and this valve opened slightly, but IMHO this is the wrong operation of the throttle unit

Posts: 2,414

Messages: 251 Opel

post No. 4 +1 wash the DU (throttle assembly) and IAC (idle air control) immediately. It may be necessary to adjust the air flow through the throttle pipe. The RXX may require replacement if the rod is physically worn out or the rear bearing is jammed. It’s easy to wash - carburetor cleaner rules (any manufacturer) - just don’t forget to rinse the small crankcase ventilation circle (thin hose on top) how to wash the RXX? Here it will be more difficult: 1 for washing it is ideal to disassemble the rcx - most likely you won’t be able to assemble it. The option disappears 2 I RECOMMEND THIS PROCEDURE TO BE CARRIED OUT AT A SERVICE STATION, AT A FAMILIAR DIAGNOSTIC WHERE THERE IS A SCANNER WITH THE FUNCTION OF CONTROLING THE ACTUATORS, BUT IF YOU WANT TO WRITE ITSELF: turn it on 2 screw fastening pxx (pxx on the wires is connected) turn off the ignition, the rod extends, press it with your finger, repeat. There is also a but: when the rod extends, under the action of a spring, the rod can fly away, wash it with a cleaner, lubricate it with a mixture: cyatim (at worst, lithol ) + engine oil to the consistency of sour cream. Installing the rod is even wiser - you also need to turn the ignition off and on (to drive the stepper motor) - trying to get on the splines. 3replacing the rcx with a known good one (with a small cap) 4 Go for diagnostics (this malfunction is similar to the air flow sensor - it greatly enriches the mixture, the injectors are leaking) in a good way, you should start with diagnostics, but from experience the malfunction speaks of pi and rcx, and if I really want to do it myself

Step-by-step instruction

All repairs are divided into two stages - disassembly and cleaning. The cleaning time depends on the degree of contamination of the damper and the general wear of the engine. There is no need to use great physical force here; each stage can be done alone without outside help.

What you need for washing

Repairs must be carried out after the engine has cooled down. To remove the throttle assembly, you will need two screwdrivers, as well as a 13mm socket wrench. Almost every car enthusiast has these tools. Any cleaning agent is suitable for working with the damper itself, the main thing is that it removes oil and soot well. For better cleaning, we recommend using cotton swabs; they will help you reach the most difficult to reach places.

Cotton swabs will help to better clean the damper from dirt

When disassembling the mechanism, it may turn out that some consumables are no longer suitable for further use. Therefore, it is better to purchase a throttle valve gasket or a receiver O-ring in advance, depending on the engine size.

Removing the throttle assembly and cleaning it

The throttle assembly must be removed in the following sequence:

1. Having opened the hood, remove the plastic cover that covers the top of the engine.
2. Remove the rubber vent hose.
   If there is a large amount of dirt, remove it with a regular rag. Remove the ventilation hose using a screwdriver
3. Before removing the mechanism itself, we will need to relieve the pressure from the cooling system.
   To do this, remove the hoses with the antifreeze liquid, having previously wrung out several clamps. We remove the hoses with antifreeze liquid, having previously wrung out the clamps
4. To protect the holes from dust during repairs, it is better to immediately cover them with small plugs.
5. To gain access to the valve itself, you will need to remove another hose that ventilates the fuel tank.
6. Now you can remove the damper by first unscrewing the two mounting bolts and disconnecting the cable that connects the part to the accelerator pedal.
   We remove the damper by first unscrewing the two bolts

For further work, you need to decide which cleaning method you will use. For minor contamination, choose the simpler and faster surface cleaner. If the mechanism is covered with a large layer of dirt, and some elements are coked, then a complete cleaning is suitable. Surface cleaning does not require further disassembly of the mechanism. It is enough to remove oil deposits from internal and external surfaces with a rag and cotton swabs. We recommend using gasoline or thinner as cleaning agents.

When completely flushed, we will need to replace the gasket or o-ring. To disassemble the tool, take a small screwdriver and a 13mm wrench to unscrew two more bolts. After cleaning, mechanics recommend blowing out all the holes with a stream of compressed air - this will remove excess moisture and small dust particles.

This is interesting: We tint glass, glue decals and decals - how the law looks at it

What does the throttle valve look like before and after cleaning?

When disassembling the throttle assembly, we recommend paying special attention to the idle speed sensor. The efficiency of fuel use and the smooth movement of the vehicle depend on its correct operation.

To clean it, it is better to use WD 40 and thin cotton swabs. We remove dirt from the case and thoroughly clean the contacts of the device.

Replacement

In fact, changing this sensor is insanely easy. So don't rush to send your car to a service station. Everything can be done with your own hands, the quality will not suffer from this.

1. To remove the throttle position sensor, you first need to find it.
2. As we have already noted, the desired unit is located on the side of the throttle pipe on the throttle valve axis.
3. Having found the element, pick up a shaped screwdriver.
4. Using this simple tool, unscrew a couple of bolts that hold the device.
5. Pay special attention to the gasket that is available under the old regulator. We do not recommend using it again; it is better to immediately buy a new one. Often the gasket is already included with the throttle sensor itself.
6. After removing the old sensor, you can slightly clean the place where it is installed if there is dirt there.
7. Next, a new sensor is installed along with a new foam gasket and the bolts are tightened.
8. Try to tighten the fasteners as far as possible, otherwise the new throttle sensor will quickly lose its effectiveness. The work will have to be done again.
9. There is no need to make any adjustments after replacement.
10. The zero mark on the controller will determine that the throttle is completely closed.

conclusions

Dismantling the intake manifold of a 16-valve VAZ-2112 is quite easy and simple. Of course, it’s worth understanding at least a little about the design of the main power unit, but if desired, any car enthusiast can remove this unit.

Since I removed the flap for flushing, I decided to immediately replace the gaskets on the receiver; it is not known when they were changed before me. The procedure for removing it can be found on the Internet, but it’s a pleasure to remove it (((. At first I couldn’t feel the nuts, because I didn’t know where they were))) Then I couldn’t unscrew it because everything was stuck.

And then I couldn’t remove it because the breather pipe didn’t want to come off until I pryed it open with a screwdriver. He became like a stone. In general, in addition to the gaskets, I had to change both the breather and the oil dipstick seal.

Gaskets cost 65 rubles. , I’ll tell you right away, buy silicone ones, rubber ones are very difficult to install and they don’t last long.

The pipe and clamps and seal cost about 300 rubles.

Now the most interesting thing is that when I took it off, I was a little freaked out) the rubber bands were burnt out, there were some deposits in the receiver itself, there was generally some kind of dirt in the back that couldn’t be picked with a screwdriver. And there’s some kind of crap in the block, blackness, dirt, yuck... how could the car get like this? Now I have to do it! In general, look at the photo!

Full size These are gaskets, as if they were cauterized on one side

Full sizeBreaker who didn't want to take off

Full size Such poop inside the breather

None I’ll measure the compression test today, let’s see what it shows!

Description of the engine structure, the procedure for repairing the power unit of the Lada 2110 car, the stages of assembly and disassembly of parts of the Lada 2112 cylinder head, adjusting the engine valves with your own hands VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2110. Maintenance of the engine of the Lada 2112 car. Instructions for repairing the cooling system, exhaust exhaust gases, power supply of the Lada 2111. Features of the 8 and 16 valve engines of the Lada 2110. Operation of the main components and assemblies of the engine Remove the plastic engine shield and disconnect the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs (see Replacing spark plugs for VAZ-2111, -2110 engines). Disconnect the throttle assembly from the receiver (see Removing the throttle assembly) and the throttle drive cable. We disconnect from the receiver the vacuum supply hose to the electro-pneumatic valve of the VAZ 2110... ...and the hose of the vacuum brake booster of the VAZ 2112.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the VAZ 2112 receiver to the cylinder head cover supports.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the clamps securing the couplings connecting the receiver to the intake manifold.

We remove the VAZ 2111 receiver. Use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the bolt securing the guide tube of the oil level indicator of the VAZ 2112. To remove the intake manifold, use a 13mm socket to unscrew the five nuts securing it to the cylinder head of the VAZ 2110.

We remove the intake manifold of the VAZ 2112... ...and the manifold gasket. We install the VAZ 2111 intake manifold and receiver in the reverse order.

None Prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:

1. Remove the plastic engine shield and disconnect the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs (see “Replacing spark plugs”). We disconnect the throttle assembly from the receiver (see “Removing the throttle assembly”) and the throttle drive cable (see “Removing the throttle drive cable”).
2. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose to the electro-pneumatic valve and the vacuum brake booster hose from the receiver.
3. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the receiver to the cylinder head cover supports.
4. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the clamps securing the couplings connecting the receiver to the intake manifold.
5. We remove the receiver.
6. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the guide tube of the oil level indicator.
7. To remove the intake manifold, use a 13mm head to unscrew the five nuts securing it to the cylinder head.
8. Remove the intake manifold and manifold gasket.

At this point, the repair work to remove the receiver and intake manifold on the VAZ 2112 engine has been completed. Install the intake manifold and receiver in reverse order.

Source

Adjusting (tuning) the Solex 21083 carburetor on a VAZ - part 3

Part 1 - accelerator pump - Part 2 - economizer, cam.

4 – bracket; 5 – bushing; 6 – locking bracket; 7 – cable end; 8 – cable sheath; 9 – bracket for the adjusting tip; 10 – adjusting nuts; 11 – sector with throttle valve control lever; 12 – return spring

Perform removal and installation only on a cold engine. To do this, remove the air filter. Disconnect the cable and return spring 12 from sector 11 (Fig. 2–90) of the throttle valve control lever. Unscrew the fastening screw and remove block 3 (see Fig. 2–83) of carburetor heating.

Disconnect the electrical wires of the forced idle economizer and the hoses of the semi-automatic starting device from the carburetor.

Unscrew the carburetor mounting nuts, remove the carburetor and close the inlet pipe inlet with a plug.

Install the carburetor in reverse order. Before installation, check the condition of the carburetor spacer and the planes of connection of the intake pipe to the carburetor. For the tightening torque of the carburetor mounting nuts, see Appendix I.

Fastening and tightening the fastening nuts of a heated carburetor is not allowed.

Let's sum it up

Here everyone decides for himself, we will not enter into disputes, there are simply different opinions, and we are obliged to warn about the pitfalls and the other side of the coin.

Symptoms of pollution

1. It becomes difficult for the engine to switch from high speeds to lower speeds and vice versa.
2. The engine stalls while moving with shaking and has great difficulty restoring normal speed.
3. The engine stalls at idle speed.
4. Cold starting of the engine is difficult. In order to start the engine, you need to turn it with the starter for a long time.
5. You will smell gasoline from the exhaust pipe.
6. The first few minutes after starting the engine will “triple”.

It is recommended to clean the damper every 50-60 thousand kilometers . You should also periodically perform certain preventive actions.

Causes of pollution

A mixture of dust and oil particles slowly covers the surface of the valve during operation. This is especially noticeable in places where there are air turbulences.

If you do not clean it on time, then over time the thermal gap will become overgrown with such plaque. Also, the valve stroke in the damper, which regulates the idle speed of the car, will decrease.

Cleaning the damper

This work must be done with the engine turned off. You also need to wait until it cools down to avoid burns.

Source

What is the VAZ 2110 gravity valve for?

In accordance with Euro-3 environmental standards, harmful hydrocarbon vapors from gasoline vapors should not be released into the atmosphere. To do this, the car's fuel system must be equipped with an absorber. The fuel system absorber traps these same vapors. Let's look at what it is, why it is needed in a car, and the principle of its operation.

What is an absorber

Absorption is the absorption of gases by solid or liquid bodies. In the case of an automotive system, the absorbent is the carbon with which the absorber is filled. Let's look at this device using the example of a VAZ 2110-12 car with an injection engine.

Principle of operation

Gasoline vapors generated in the tank rise upward and first enter the separator through an opening at the neck of the tank. There they condense and drain back into the tank.

That part of them that does not have time to turn into condensate, through the gravity valve through the steam line, goes directly into the absorber, where it is absorbed by activated carbon. This happens when the engine is not running.

Otherwise, while the car is moving, with the engine warm, the control system opens the solenoid valve and the absorber is purged. Gasoline vapor, together with air entering through another valve, is blown into the engine intake pipe, where it is burned.

It turns out to be a kind of double effect.

• firstly, the atmosphere is not polluted by unnecessary, harmful fumes;
• secondly, we have, albeit small, fuel savings. After all, if there were no absorber, the fuel would simply evaporate.

In a word, everything was described as an ecologist, everyone is fine, everyone is happy.

Cleaning the idle speed sensor itself

Pay attention to the sensors on the ring, which must remain in place.

• Clean all parts of the throttle valve, all recesses and compartments.
• When everything is cleaned, we put everything in reverse order.
• We tighten everything well, otherwise air will leak and the engine will not work properly.
• You shouldn't have any difficulty. You have to be attentive and careful.

Adjusting the throttle cable on VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Note! What tools are needed to carry out the work of adjusting the throttle cable on a car: Firstly, you will need wrenches and secondly a screwdriver, besides these tools you can also stock up on a rag and a second person (Assistant) will come in handy!

Summary:

Where is the throttle cable located? On injection cars, it passes at the very top, through the intake manifold (This is on a 16-valve car) and thus goes into the cabin to the gas pedal, on 8-valve cars, it’s a little different, there the cable passes through the cylinder head (Cylinder Head) and it also goes into the car interior and is connected to the gas pedal. On both engines, finding this cable will not be a problem; for clarity, it is indicated in the photo below by an arrow, which shows a car of the tenth family, with a 16-valve injection engine.

When do you need to adjust the throttle cable? Adjustment is carried out in cases where the cable is replaced with a new one (When installing a new cable, that is), as well as after removing the throttle assembly from the car, the cable again needs adjustment (This is when you put the throttle assembly in place), and after other operations connections with which the cable was affected and its adjustment, in addition, as we said earlier, after a certain time the cable is pulled out (It depends on the quality of the cable, there are also cables that even after a very long time they do not pull out), and when the cable is pulled out, the throttle the damper cannot open completely (When the pedal is fully recessed) and therefore the power of the car drops, this is very easy to check, to check you will need an assistant who will sit in the car and press the gas pedal (If there is no assistant, then press the pedal to the floor with a stick or brick ), everything is checked as follows, first remove the air pipe (It is attached to the clamps, and these screws tighten the clamps, both screws that tighten the clamps are indicated by red arrows, you loosen them and then remove the air pipe, but you do not remove it completely you can, because the crankcase ventilation hose is still attached to it in the middle, it can be disconnected in the same way by loosening the screw of the clamp that secures it, by the way it is indicated by a green arrow) and when it is removed, press the gas pedal fully (all the way , let an assistant do this) and see if the throttle valve has fully opened (see. small photo), if completely, then everything is fine and there is no need to adjust anything, by the way, when the pedal is released, the damper should be completely closed, if it is not completely closed, then adjust the cable (the damper is allowed to be slightly open, even this most likely you won’t see it, this is necessary so that the damper itself does not touch the body and jamming does not occur when it is opened).

Note! On 16 valve cars there is still a screen on top of the engine, if it bothers you (By the way, without removing it, you will not be able to adjust the cable), then remove it, how to do this, read the article: “Replacing the engine screen on 16 valve cars”!

How to adjust the throttle cable on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Note! A lot of engines were installed on cars of the tenth family, ranging from carburetor 1.5 to injection 16 valve engines. Let us immediately warn you that carburetor engines from the Samara family were installed on dozens, and we already have information on adjusting all the valves on carburetor Samaras and it is posted in two article, the first is called: “Adjusting the throttle valves”, the second: “Adjusting the air damper”, so if you have a carburetor, then go straight to them, because in this article we are talking only about injection cars and we will not touch on carburetor cars!

1) Let’s write briefly because there is nothing complicated in the adjustment, and there are not many nuances, in general, let’s start with the throttle valve closed (This is when the gas pedal is released and nothing presses on it), so if it is not completely closed, then the adjustment it can be done using a cable, but it is not always possible to adjust the position of the closed damper with a cable, so the adjusting screw comes into play, which is located on the throttle assembly itself (see photo 1), you will either need to tighten it, or, on the contrary, loosen it a little, thereby achieving a completely closed damper (And it shouldn’t jam yet, keep this in mind), but you need to be careful with this screw, if you tighten it too much, the car will simply stall or won’t start at all, and if you unscrew it too much, the idle speed will increase, fuel consumption will be the same and the throttle will be slightly open, but the easiest way is to adjust it by speed, for example, on a warm engine, your idle used to be 800 rpm, you will need to start the car, warm it up in the same way and adjust this screw so that again there were 800 revolutions on the tachometer needle as before, we’re done with adjusting the damper, proceed to adjusting the cable on 8 valve cars, look for the place where the cable connects to the bracket (see. photo 2), once you have found it, take two wrenches and rotate the adjusting nuts (Nut 1 and 2) with them, adjust the cable as you need (It is allowed to sag a little, do not tighten the cable too much), 16 valve cars are also adjusted in the same way , there a metal plate is pulled out with pliers or by hand (see photo 3) and after which the cable is adjusted by moving it (To the back and to the front, see photo 4), as soon as the tension suits you (Remember, do not overtighten it ) the plate is inserted into its place and the adjustment is complete; at the end, check whether the throttle valve opens completely when the pedal is pressed all the way and whether it closes.

Note! Let's say a few words about the adjusting screw, the most important thing is not to confuse it with any other screws (For example, with screws A, by the way, they cannot be turned out at all), it stands on the side, for clarity, in the photo below it is indicated by an arrow with the letter B!

Additional video: Using the example of a Renault Logan car, look at how the cable is adjusted, it applies to 16 valve cars; on dozens with a 124 engine, this adjustment is done almost exactly the same way.

Note! And regarding 8-valve machines, see the cable adjustment a little lower; by the way, it also applies to some 16-valve machines (If the intake manifold is not plastic, but aluminum)!