Why is car throttle heating needed?

What is a throttle body pipe?

Throttle pipe

— the air supply system to the engine, assembled, contains several sensors: TPS (
throttle
), IAC (idle air control).

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Turn off the throttle valve heating

This activity is usually carried out in the spring-summer period; in winter, the heating of the remote control is switched back on. The implementation of the plan occurs as follows: a special fitting, clamps and a small piece of rubber hose are bought in the store. The coolant inlet and outlet hoses are disconnected and connected to each other using a special adapter fitting, bypassing the throttle assembly. To prevent anything from getting inside the coolant inlet and outlet on the throttle assembly, it is necessary to plug the holes using a hose that fits onto the corresponding fittings.

What is this node for?

The Priora throttle valve is an element of the fuel system of internal combustion engines with fuel injection. It acts as a valve that supplies air from the air filter to the intake manifold. When the damper is in the open position, air is supplied completely, and the pressure in the manifold and in the atmosphere becomes the same. If it is closed, a vacuum is created.

On Priora, the throttle valve is controlled in two ways: electrical and mechanical.

Maintenance frequency

Practice shows that accelerator cleaning should be carried out at intervals of 40-60 thousand kilometers. The time at which such a need arises can be determined by the following criteria:

1. Unsustainable trade turnover.
2. Long return to idle mode when releasing the accelerator pedal.
3. Difficulty starting the engine after a long period of inactivity. Even when it's hot.
4. There is a gasoline smell in the exhaust, indicating that the mixture is too rich.

The manufacturer recommends cleaning every 50 thousand km. Owners of the Priora car call different numbers on thematic forums. Some people do not use this procedure for the entire life of the machine. Much depends on the operating conditions - the region, the timeliness of replacing the air filter.

Cleaning the throttle

To clean the damper from dirt, it is necessary to dismantle it from the car. This will require a number of tools and a little skill in car repair.

Required tool:

• Phillips or flathead screwdriver;
• Pliers;
• Ratchet with extension head 13;
• Carburetor cleaner;
• New gasket for remote control;

All work should be performed with the negative terminal of the battery removed..

Cleaning the mechanical throttle

• We begin to dismantle the damper; to do this, we unscrew the clamp of the air filter corrugation, the clamp of the crankcase ventilation pipe and the clamp from the mass air flow sensor. We take out the corrugation.

• We unscrew the clamps of the throttle heating hoses and lift them up so that the coolant does not leak out.

• Unscrew the clamps of the remaining two hoses from the top and bottom of the DZ.

• Disconnect the TPS and IAC connectors

• Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the DZ, use a ratchet with a head set to “13” and remove the damper. We dismantle the TPS and IAC dampers already removed.

Cleaning process

1. Use carburetor cleaner to thoroughly rinse all areas of contamination. Particular attention should be paid to the channels of the idle air regulator, since it is in them that a large amount of dirt accumulates.
2. Then we wash the valve itself to remove carbon deposits.
3. We carry out assembly in reverse order.
4. When assembling, pay special attention to the condition of the sealing ring on the IAC; it should fit tightly to the body and be free of burrs and cracks. Replace it if necessary.

Cleaning the electronic throttle E-GAS

Removing the electronic damper is a little quicker and easier.

IMPORTANT: Do not turn the valve with your fingers; flushing must be done without touching the valve. Otherwise, the mechanism may be damaged, which will lead to inevitable replacement of the remote control.

• We unscrew the clamps of the air corrugation and dismantle it.
• Then remove the connector from the remote control and unscrew the three nuts securing the throttle to the intake manifold.

Cleaning process

1. Use carburetor cleaner to clean the throttle from carbon deposits; the cleaned surface should shine.
2. We carry out assembly in reverse order.

Differences between E-GAS and mechanical.

E-GAS damper
The electronic damper is more modern and unpretentious; it does not have the problematic IAC and TPS sensors. All adjustments of the electronic throttle occur precisely by the position of the damper itself. Changing the position of the damper in the assembly is carried out by a worm mechanism receiving signals from the electronic gas pedal.

Mechanical damper

In a mechanical throttle, a separate sensor, called TPS, is responsible for the valve position, and the IAC is responsible for the idle speed. Changing its position is driven by a cable connected to the accelerator pedal inside the car.

Heated throttle body Kalina 8 valves

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The throttle body is constantly cold. More precisely, the inlet pipe is hot and the outlet pipe is cold. I expelled the air, changed the RB plug, changed the heater core (it leaked), changed the thermostat (stuck), changed the antifreeze and it was always not below the Max mark.

The throttle body is constantly cold. More precisely, the inlet pipe is hot and the outlet pipe is cold.

The remote control itself gets a little warm after a long trip. But the outlet pipe is barely warm. Input hot.

The channels are not clogged. Yesterday I just removed, blew and cleaned the remote control.

How did you get the air out of the system?

I tried all known methods. And of course the most effective. I remove the near hose from the remote control, blow into the tank, antifreeze drips - I put on the hose.

progmo

You need to shoot from far away, it seems to me. At least that's what I did. And after what did it start?

Added after 6 minutes 42 seconds:

My guess is that the pump pumps antifreeze very poorly, because of this there is no flow of fluid through the stove and the remote control.

Let's say a pump. But then, according to all laws, the engine should heat up quickly and even worse. But here everything is different. It's +1 outside, and for the fan to work you have to keep the speed at 2-3 thousand for a long time.

Say thermos. Unfortunately no. I've already replaced two.

When the fan turns on, is the lower radiator hose hot? If it takes a long time to heat up, are you sure it’s not stuck on a large circle?

Yes, hot. The other day the thermos jammed in a large circle. It took even longer to warm up and couldn’t warm up to 90 at all.

After replacing the thermostat, of course it heats up many times faster and can be heated up before the fan kicks in, but still, for example, much longer than the 1.5 v8 on the former 099 or friends with 1.6 v16 Priors.

And the question is different. Why doesn’t my antifreeze want to run through the remote control? Considering that there is no air lock.

Source

Signs of an air lock in the engine cooling system

An air lock creates an obstacle in the cooling system, due to which antifreeze or antifreeze cannot circulate and evenly cool a running engine.

Reasons for the appearance of an air lock in the engine cooling system:

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– Air may enter the system when replacing or adding coolant.

– In the engine cooling system, there is a leak in external air due to weak compression of plastic fittings, loose clamps, a leaking radiator, a leak in the pump and a faulty expansion tank cap valve. One of the signs of a plug in the ODS is the gurgling of coolant under the instrument panel when the engine warms up.

To remove the plug, you need to loosen the clamp and remove tube 3 or 22 from the heating of the throttle assembly

– The cylinder head gasket (cylinder head) has broken. As a result of the breakdown, a coolant leak is visible from under the cylinder head. Exhaust gases escape from under the cylinder head, you can see the bubbling of antifreeze, the formation of an emulsion in the expansion tank, and white steam in the car exhaust.

An air lock in the SOD can form in both the small and large circulation circles. The disadvantage of Kalina's SOD is the location of the expansion tank in a large circle. As a result, until the thermostat opens completely, it is difficult to remove the airlock. Therefore, in the cold season, “gasification” helps, as a result of which the car warms up faster, and when the engine reaches a temperature of 101-105 degrees. The thermostat opens a large circulation circle and the air exits into the expansion tank.

Removing the air lock is only possible through the highest point of the cooling system. The method of understanding the front of the car, accelerating and letting the engine run for the Lada Kalina is not effective, because... in a closed system, air can only escape through the expansion tank. Rather, it will be more effective to lift the left side of the car, where the expansion tank is located, to release air from the SOD.

For Kalina cars with a throttle assembly, there is an easier and faster way to remove the plug from the SOD. To do this, you need to loosen the clamp and remove any tube from the heating of the throttle assembly. Remove the cap from the expansion tank and blow into the expansion tank until antifreeze flows out of the removed tube. Then we put the tube back on the heating fitting of the throttle assembly and tighten the clamp.

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There is a second way to remove the traffic jam. To do this, you need to warm up the engine a little and turn it off, without unscrewing the expansion tank cap, loosen the clamp and remove the tube from the throttle assembly. As a result of the increased pressure in the SOD, the antifreeze will flow out of the tube on its own. We put the tube on the fitting and tighten the clamp. That's it, the plug has been removed, since the throttle assembly is the highest point of the SOD of the Lada Kalina car.

Temperature sensor Lada Kalina with electronic pedal

On Lada Kalina cars with an electronic gas pedal there is no throttle assembly. Therefore, there are several ways to expel an air lock:

1. Using a wrench or a 19mm socket, unscrew the coolant sensor from the thermostat, having first disconnected the wiring harness from the sensor. We wait for antifreeze to flow from the hole; for efficiency, you can blow into the expansion tank, tighten the sensor, and connect the connector with wires.
2. Instead of the coolant sensor, you can remove the thin hose (if equipped) from the thermostat fitting. We wait for coolant to flow from the hose; if the plug prevents coolant from escaping, blow into the expansion tank. As soon as the antifreeze flows, put the hose back on and tighten the clamp.

engine, viburnum, lada, cooling, plug

What is a throttle valve and where is it located?

The main purpose of the damper is to supply the optimal amount of air to the cylinders for the fuel combustion process. If this mechanism is corrected, the engine will operate stably and produce rated power; any deviations cause instability in the operation of the power unit and other systems.

In the VAZ-2114 car system, this mechanism is located between the air filter and the intake manifold. Maintenance and replacement of the damper is complicated by the fact that it is simply impossible to get close to it. It is necessary to dismantle the entire mechanism and then disassemble it.

The design of the remote control includes the following elements:

• remote control position sensor;
• coolant outlet pipe;
• coolant supply pipe;
• RXX;
• ventilation and vapor recovery system tube.

The electronic throttle valve of the VAZ-2114 works according to the following principle: the valve opens in accordance with the pressing of the accelerator pedal. At the same time, the unit receives signals from various system sensors, on the basis of which it opens or closes the remote control to achieve the required power level by the engine. This regulates the supply of the optimal amount of air to the cylinders and the amount of fuel injected.

Periodic replacement of refrigerant

The period for replacing the fluid is indicated by the manufacturer in the operating instructions. In older engines, the replacement interval is usually 2 years or 60 thousand km of the vehicle. In new engines, this period is increased to 5 years or up to 120 thousand kilometers of total mileage.

To replace the cooler, it is necessary to drain the used one. To drain, you need to perform the following operations:

• wait until the engine cools down, otherwise there is a risk of burns;
• open the radiator cap;
• install a wide vessel under the radiator;
• Unscrew the drain plugs in the radiator and engine block.

When replacing coolant, and especially when changing its type, it is necessary to flush the hydraulic system. Flushing involves supplying water with a hose to the radiator filler neck and passing it through the entire hydraulic system. During the procedure, you can start the engine so that the running pump participates in the flushing process.

After emptying and flushing, the drain plug must be tightened. Slowly fill the radiator, block jacket and pump to the maximum level. When the radiator cap is open, you must start the engine to remove air from the pipeline. Only when you are sure that the air has been removed can you tighten the plug tightly.

This is all clear, but what is it really like?

In fact, driving without heating the remote control is not advisable, and in winter, turning off the throttle valve can lead to freezing of the remote control. Due to high air humidity and negative temperatures, freezing of the damper, as well as channels, including idle channels, occurs.

How about summer? In the summer, heating the remote control has virtually no effect on the temperature of the air that passes through the throttle valve, since the powerful air flow (approximately 40 l/sec and 2400 l/min) simply does not have time to warm up in such a short period of time passing through the throttle assembly. In addition, the coolant temperature is regulated by the cooling system regardless of the season and ambient temperature.

If the above arguments do not seem convincing enough to you, you can personally check whether it makes sense to turn off the heating of the throttle assembly. How to do it right?

Why do they turn off throttle heating in tuning and is it necessary to do so?

Hello dear subscribers and readers of my channel! Today I want to look at one type of “tuning” that supposedly adds power to the car, namely, turning off the heating of the throttle assembly.

More and more often on the Internet I began to see this type of modification of the throttle assembly. This occurs (oddly enough) mainly on domestic cars.

The essence of turning off the heating is the following - heating the throttle assembly, heating the throttle, accordingly heats the incoming air, and everyone knows (or most) that the colder the intake air, the better the mixture formation and, in general, the engine efficiency increases.

But there is one BUT! And this BUT is this - imagine:

Winter is on the street. Your car is already warm enough (engine temperature

70-80°C), you leave the garage and -30°C air enters your engine. Can you imagine what will happen there? It will be a complete disaster! Considering also that the temperature in the combustion chambers is not 70-80°C, but much higher. There is also constant ignition of the fuel mixture.

I think you understand that “would-be tuners” don’t drive their “cars” for a long time.

Of course, you can still try in the summer, but it won’t give you any crazy results! The increase in power will be so insignificant that even an experienced person will not be able to determine it.

And heating the throttle is needed, roughly speaking, to equalize the incoming air, so that at any time of the year air of approximately the same temperature enters the engine (I don’t know which temperature, and I don’t think anyone has measured it). Well, this is also more convenient for the control unit; you don’t need to take into account the air temperature, but take some average value as the average and build on it.