Compared to the previous carburetor generation, the new injection VAZ 2114 turned out to be much more efficient and reliable, but from time to time they are plagued by various problems. A situation such as a drop in speed after releasing the gas on a VAZ 2114 is almost always caused by problems with the injection system, but other causes must be excluded during the diagnostic process.
VAZ 2114 revs are falling
Candles
Let's start with the basics - candles. If the engine stalls when you release the gas and loses dynamics, the first reason is the spark plugs. Checking them is quite simple: unscrew them and look at the contacts. If they are sooted, then most likely there is no spark and, as a result, the cylinder is switched off from engine operation. If possible, it is better to change the kit; if not, clean the contacts and go to the nearest auto shop. When cleaning, you should try not to change the distance between the contacts. This operation is performed with simple sandpaper; if you don’t have it, then a pocket knife will do.
How to check the voltage at different points in the car network?
It is best to use the services of a car electrician for this purpose. A specialist, using special instruments, can quickly find out the point where the trouble arose. The voltage at different points of the on-board network may differ, as consumers reduce it. One of the universal measurement methods is to check the voltage with a tester at the battery terminals. There are several recommendations on this matter:
- if the measured voltage is less than 13.5V, we can talk about insufficient network performance; the problem often lies in the generator or connecting parts;
- it is worth measuring the voltage in various modes, such as idle speed, increased speed, ignition state, as well as the inclusion of all present consumers;
- An important point is the quality of the device used, since Chinese compact testers show fairly approximate figures that cannot be taken as a basis for repairs;
- if the measured contacts are oxidized, then the indicators may be different; it is worth cleaning the measurement points a little to obtain normal results in the end;
- If the voltage on the battery is normal, you should go further, measuring the indicators on the headlight bulbs, on the cigarette lighter and other open consumers accessible without disassembly.
Checking the idle speed sensor (IAC)
Finding the sensor is not difficult; it is located under the throttle assembly and is secured with two bolts. If the throttle assembly (DU) has not been cleaned for a long time, then the conical needle of the sensor and its seat could become clogged and produce incorrect data. The main reason indicating a sensor malfunction is that the car stalls when releasing the gas and changing gears. The problem is solved by removing the throttle assembly and washing it with carburetor cleaner. It is difficult to remove the sensor itself without a remote control. All you need is a small screwdriver and a lot of flexibility. There is also a high chance of missing a screw or two. Usually no one has a replacement for them.
TPS is out of order
The throttle position sensor is another suspect. The symptoms are similar to IAC, except that when moving away smoothly the car will do so jerkily. The sensor is also located on the throttle in the area where the throttle cable is connected.
The test can be done using a multimeter. If TPS is installed on the car, then open the throttle and watch the tester readings, they should change smoothly. If removed, then use a screwdriver and also look at the readings.
Injectors
Fuel is injected into the cylinders through electromagnetic injectors. Due to poor quality fuel, they can become clogged and not allow enough fuel into the cylinder. Hence we have the fact that the car stalls when the gas is released. The injectors are installed on the fuel rail. Everything can be easily removed, and you can carry out the injector cleaning procedure yourself in your garage. You just need to first buy new rubber gaskets for the injectors and carburetor flushing fluid. We put the wires from the battery on the nozzle and supply liquid from a can of cleaner into it under pressure through a standard tube. It is necessary to achieve good atomization of the liquid coming out through the nozzle; when voltage is applied from the battery, the nozzle should click. If this does not happen, then it must be replaced. But it’s better to contact a service center that has the necessary equipment and will do the washing procedure much better.
Design of a car generator
Any generator, with the exception of direct current models, creates multiphase alternating current - three or four phases, depending on the power. Why such a complication if the on-board network uses only direct current anyway? The fact is that a multiphase alternating current generator has higher efficiency, and most importantly, the current is removed not by brushes from the rotating rotor, but from the stationary stator windings. Accordingly, there are no problems with burnout of the collector (the current in it is much less than what the generator produces), and the collector itself is simpler - two rings, and not a set of insulated lamellas.
To convert polyphase alternating current into direct current, a diode bridge is used. At a minimum, it contains several powerful diodes with twice the number of phases - they are engaged in rectifying the current. Some generators also have additional diodes that provide power to the relay regulator.
The relay-regulator itself is no longer a relay: instead of an electromechanical device, electronic circuits are used to control generators, but the name “relay-regulator” has already firmly established itself behind it. They operate in the same way - by changing the current in the rotor winding (and the magnetic field in the core), they increase or decrease the voltage at the generator output so as to keep it within specified limits from 13.7 V (old low-power generators) to 14.5 V (modern generators designed for high power consumption of the on-board network and accelerated battery charging). Modern generators are no longer independent units, but are integrated with on-board controllers: the ECU controls the voltage, raising it after the engine starts to speed up battery charging, and then lowering it to normal.
The relay-regulator is powered from an external network (Zhiguli, most foreign cars) and from the generator itself through additional bridge diodes (front-wheel drive VAZs). The second circuit is considered less reliable, but has a distinctive ability to self-excite due to the residual magnetization of the rotor - the generator, spun up to high speeds, produces enough current for the relay-regulator to operate and bring it to operating mode.
Fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
The RTD is quite easy to find; it is installed on the fuel rail and has the shape of a cylinder. It is a regular valve that reacts to excess pressure and supplies more fuel to the engine. Again, due to low-quality fuel, it can become clogged and jam. This malfunction is not critical, but because of it, when you release the gas, the car stalls, the engine is difficult to start, dynamics are lost, and the idle speed “floats.” RTDs are inexpensive in stores and available almost everywhere. Changes in a few minutes.
VAZ 2110 8 valve injector stalls at idle - causes and solutions
The first VAZ-2110 was produced in 1995. At first it was equipped with a carburetor engine with 8 valves, and then only injection engines began to be installed on it. This model was produced in sedans, hatchbacks, and even station wagons. In 2007, they stopped being produced in Tolyatti, but began to be produced in Ukraine.
If a car suddenly stalls, it is always dangerous. It’s better not to allow this to happen, but if this has already happened, you need to look for the problem and solve it. In order to understand why the VAZ-2110 does not move without the help of car service specialists and wasting money, you need to have at least a little idea of which unit you need to look into, which sensors you need to check. There are many special thematic forums on the Internet where people discuss their cars and give each other advice on any problems. There you can find answers to your questions, and on YouTube you can also see it clearly.
Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
The most expensive sensor, therefore, it is changed as a last resort when all else fails. It is located on the pipe, after the air filter. It's easy to check: remove the connector from it and start moving. If the engine does not stall when you release the gas, then the reason is in the sensor. It's difficult and tedious to understand. It can be treated by specialists with equipment, but it will cost about the same as the sensor itself. Therefore, it is better to buy a new one. The main thing when purchasing is to indicate the number and manufacturer that is indicated on your sensor. Your ECU firmware may not work correctly with other sensors. Installed with simple clamps. We also recommend changing the air filter along with it. It costs a penny, but it will protect you from failure of the new mass air flow sensor.
The engine stalls when releasing gas VAZ 2110 8 valve injector
it seems that only GM suffered from this,
it seems that only GM suffered from this
and view contacts on the DMRV?
and view contacts on the DMRV?
Maybe it's time, I'll look there then.
And I wanted to ask if the brains (firmware) could be bugged like this? or is this a more ironclad problem? By the way, I recently replaced the battery, now error 1602 constantly appears, how can I clear it?
And I wanted to ask if the brains (firmware) could be bugged like this?
500-600 rev/m -When you press the brake in a parking lot, the speed does not drop (it was a mistake on VUT) -if you put it in gear after it stalled, it starts perfectly
I also noticed that an error appeared on the BC about a loss of voltage on the ECU (I did not reset the battery), cleared the error, drove on (stall), but the error did not appear again. I thought about a generator, but when the consumers are disconnected, it still stalls.
this has been going on for a long time and it’s unclear where it came from)
I checked the mass of the battery and engine with a tester. I didn't seem to find anything. I haven't touched the ECU yet. Today I replaced the canister purge valve, apparently it had already been changed before me, the latches were slightly loose, but the valve seemed to be holding tightly. I looked at the BC at XX temperature 88-90 RPM 840-880 Air consumption: 13.6-13.8 Pitch: 34-38 DC: 0.01-0.7 Gasoline consumption/h: 0.9l
Speed: 2400-2500\min air consumption: 26-27 Pitch: 78-80 DC: 0.01-0.7 Gasoline consumption/h: 2.3l
Are these indicators normal? and why does the DC show the same thing at different speeds, and the range of readings is so wide? Maybe it's time for DK to be trashed?
Source
The calibration hole in the throttle assembly is clogged
Pay attention to your throttle body. A small tube goes from it to the valve cover. This is a low ventilation hose. The calibration hole in the throttle assembly is often clogged with dirt and dust by drivers who neglect to replace the air filter. The problem can be resolved by cleaning the hole with a piece of wire. To do this, you need to remove the throttle assembly to prevent dirt from getting into the engine. It can be removed simply by unscrewing two 10mm bolts and disconnecting the throttle cable.
Visiting a car service center
In a situation where you specifically do not have enough experience in car maintenance, there is a fairly high probability of aggravating the problem by unqualified intervention in the operation of various on-board systems.
It is important to objectively assess your own capabilities, and if you don’t have faith in yourself, then it is better to entrust the repairs to specialists. In a situation where it turns out that the problem is not particularly serious, they will not take much money from you. But in any case, you will be able to avoid many of the troubles associated with unqualified attempts to repair the vehicle.
Sources
- ladaautos.ru/vaz-2114/pochemu-vaz-2114-gloxnet-pri-sbrose-gaza.html
- vaz-2114.info/vaz-2114-inzhektor-glohnet-na-holostyh/
- remontvazov.com/padayut-oboroty-posle-sbrosa-gaza-na-vaz-2114
Fuel pump is faulty
A fuel pump malfunction may be caused by oxidation of the wires in the connector. The power supply to the fuel pump is unstable, and, as a result, fuel is simply not supplied to the engine. This can be fixed by simply cleaning the contacts. There may also be a problem with the pump itself. Nothing lasts forever, and it can fail. But the most common fuel pump malfunction is contamination of the primary strainer. There is no point in washing it; it is better to buy a new one and replace it.
In this article, we looked at the most common reasons for the engine stopping while driving. If the information presented in the article does not help solve the problem, we strongly recommend that you contact a car service center.
Most common reasons
Most likely, the problem arose due to the fact that:
- a blockage has formed in the throttle valve, as a result of which the gap is completely closed;
- its regulator broke down (this element generally fails quite often compared to others).
In the latter case, it will most likely need to be replaced with a functional one. Usually the problem is eliminated by thoroughly washing the clogged unit. However, sometimes cleaning the above components does not solve the problem. What to do in this case?
Here, most likely, you will need to check whether all sensors are working as they should?
High voltage wires
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Current flows to the glow plugs through wires. It often happens that the engine stalls when the gas is released because one or two spark plugs stop receiving voltage. This reason becomes especially relevant in cold weather. The braided wires become tanned in the cold and tend to break due to vibrations in the cold. It can be treated by simply replacing the wires with better ones.
