Easy replacement of the front suspension arm silent block

Tool:

• Jack or ditch lift
• Open-end wrench 19 mm
• Open-end wrench 24 mm
• Straight box spanner 17 mm - 2 pcs.
• Straight box spanner 19 mm - 2 pcs.
• Curved box spanner 24 mm
• Ball joint puller
• Driver for socket attachment
• Torx wrench attachment E12
• Wheel chock (shoe) - 2 pcs.
• Punch
• Large hammer
• Bench vice
• Chisel

Parts and consumables:

• Silent block of the front suspension arm - 4 pcs.
• Soap solution

Notes:

Remove the lever from the car to replace it or replace the silent blocks of the lever. The work to remove the left and right front suspension arms is similar. Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

Removing the front suspension arm

1. Disconnect the ball joint from the control arm as described in this article.

2. Unscrew the nut securing the brace to the front suspension arm and remove the washer as described here.

3. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the arm and remove the bolt as described in this article.

4. Using two 19 mm spanners, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body.

5. Using a soft metal drift, knock out and remove the bolt, then move the lever out of the bracket and remove it.

Replacing the silent block of the front suspension arm

1. Place the lever from the silent block in a vice and, using attachments, press it out of the suspension arm.

2. Before pressing in, moisten the new silent block with soapy water.

3. Knock down the silent block of the extension with a chisel on both sides of the lever.

4. Pre-press new silent blocks in a vice and finally press them by striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer.

5. Install the lever in reverse order. Tighten the threaded connections of rubber-metal hinges after removing the jack or ditch lift.

The article is missing:

• Photos of parts and consumables
• High-quality photos of repairs

You can recognize problems in the front suspension system, and more specifically the silent blocks on the Lada Kalina, by the characteristic sounds it makes while driving. Thus, driving on an uneven road may be accompanied by various cracks, squeaks and other unpleasant noises. This situation not only causes great discomfort, but can also cause a more serious malfunction or cause an accident.

Replacing silent blocks on Kalina

Front suspension silent block close up

The silent blocks on the Lada Kalina car are located exactly the same as in the VAZs of previous years. These elements are located generally on or adjacent to the wishbone . You will have to change them either on the entire element at once, or by selecting the most damaged ones. Of course, if there is damage on one of them, the wishbone with rubber (stock – approx.) stabilizers must be removed and replaced with polyurethane analogues.

Removing the wishbone

1. In order to begin work on replacing old silent blocks with new ones, you need to place the car on a viewing hole, a lift, or jack it up.
2. Next, you need to remove the wheel and spray all the connections on the wishbone with WD-40.
3. After the lubricant has penetrated into all hard-to-reach places, we begin to unscrew the bolts.
4. First of all, we begin to dismantle the ball joint bolt, but before that we remove the cotter pin from the bolt.
5. Then we unscrew the bolt securing the longitudinal tension hinge (where the “daisies” are attached - approx.) and remove it from the seat.

A generously lubricated bolt is a guarantee of success.

When dismantling this unit, there should be no problems.

For the best impact on the bolt, you can use a wrench extension.

Rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint

The rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint, or popularly simply “daisy”, is designed to take the brunt of the impact from uneven road surfaces; despite the fact that this element is very important, it is very easy to dismantle.

Having previously clamped the lever in a vice, we knock out the silent blocks one by one using a chisel or a thin flat screwdriver.

Punching out “daisies” is not an easy task.

This is what the old suspension elements look like

To cause the least damage to silent blocks, it is better to place pieces of wood between the vices.

Stabilizer strut and cushion

1. The stabilizer bar, or simply “eggs,” and the cushion provide the stabilizer bar with stable operation while driving the car.
2. It is very easy to dismantle the “eggs”, just unscrew the mounting bolt from the transverse arm, and simply release the other end from the anti-roll bar by simple rocking.

Sometimes it happens that they just break

After unscrewing the fastening, it is very easy to remove the pillow, but putting on a new one is much more difficult.

Cross Arm Bracket

1. The largest silent block of the lever located at the very base, despite the fact that it has, among others, more impressive dimensions, is not difficult to dismantle.
2. The easiest option to remove it is to set it on fire. When the rubber on it burns out, you just have to take it out and clean the seat. (Of course, you can press it out through a vice, but this will take time and may cause some inconvenience).

How difficult is the job?

Any novice craftsman can cope with such repairs; the silent block of the grant will be shown in the photo; it is not difficult at all. It is worth doing the work in the following sequence. You need to hold the stretcher with one key, and use the second to unscrew the nut. Now you need to unscrew the 3 bolts that secure the crab, after which replacing the silent blocks of the fret grant involves removing the brace.

The attractive price for the grant silent block will allow you to purchase parts without extra costs. When you try to remove the stretcher, the rubber part may fall out towards you. Please note that the part also has metal clips; you will also have to deal with them. To do this, you can use a screwdriver and a hammer, or take a drift; you can see the work on replacing silent blocks in the video grant.

Important!

If during the work you find that the bolts and nuts are in poor condition (there are cracks, traces of severe rust, bad threads - approx.), then it is best to replace such elements with new ones, using high-quality steel bolts and nuts with a self-locking element .

Other front suspension elements

The remaining elements of the front suspension, which contain rubber-metal and metal hinges, are replaced immediately as an assembly. These include:

• Spherical bearing.
• Stretch bracket.
• Steering end.

These elements cost about 500 rubles per set, and also do not require specific installation skills.

Shock absorber

What is the canister valve on the grant fret needed for and how to replace it?
This element is a damping device. The shock absorber serves to reduce the range of vibrations of the car body. In other words, the element prevents spontaneous rocking. The work of the shock absorber is based on hydraulic resistance. Inside it there is a liquid of a certain viscosity. It moves through a special valve. Thus, the device absorbs sharp impacts while preserving vulnerable suspension parts. Therefore, the shock absorber is one of the most important components in the chassis. On our roads, this element lasts about 60-80 thousand kilometers. But this period may be shorter, even with careful driving. It is enough just to damage the protective boot, and all the dirt will accumulate in the rod seal.

Also note that the damping element changes in pairs. That is, in the event of a breakdown of the rear left shock absorber, the rear right shock absorber also changes. As for the front struts, they are more durable. Often they are replaced already assembled with a spring, since they fail no earlier than after 150-200 thousand kilometers.

Causes of knocking in the front suspension

In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the Lada Kalina car owner, and three of them can be eliminated independently and everything can be returned to a safe state.

1. The first reason why knocking occurs in the suspension is the poor quality of the road surface . A suspension that is in good working order can also produce some extraneous noise. If the noise disappears when you drive onto a good road, then everything is fine with your suspension, you can move on to the point below.
2. If knocking and simultaneous vibration occur in the steering wheel, the reason may lie in a faulty steering rack . If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
3. The third reason is the front suspension strut spring that has lost its elasticity . Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits directly against the body. How to change the front struts, and along with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
4. And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary to thoroughly dampen knocks and vibrations that occur while driving. Read below for information on how to properly replace these front suspension elements.

If you are going to drive a car in winter, it would be a good idea to check the condition of the chassis and transmission so that you do not have to do repairs right on the road, in dirty snow slush. Any Granta owner can save both time and money if they check the car themselves. Today we are talking about the chassis and transmission.

LADA > Granta

Stabilizer struts for Lada Vesta. Signs and causes of malfunction

There are plenty of reasons for extraneous sounds emanating from the front suspension. This could be a loose steering rack on Vesta, worn shock absorber struts, ball joints, silent blocks of levers, or worn stabilizer bushings. At a mileage of 40-50 thousand km, sometimes less, the stabilizer struts may knock and this is easy to check. The stand knocks only in two cases:

• increased wear of the strut ball joints and the resulting play;
• ball joint jamming.

It is rare, but a break in the strut hinge occurs; in this case, the stabilizer loses one of its attachment points, which affects directional stability, controllability and the operation of the front suspension as a whole. The reasons for the failure of the rack are obvious:

• lack of lubrication in ball ends;
• boot damage;
• mechanical damage to the rack;
• defective or low-quality racks originally installed on the car, which is also not uncommon.

To check the condition of the rack, it is enough to shake the ball joints by hand in an unloaded state (the car is standing on a level surface without lateral roll). The backlash will be visible immediately, if there is any. You can more accurately determine the condition of the ball ends if you remove them from their mounting points, which, in fact, is equivalent to replacing the stabilizer struts.

Granta 38 4 new size

We make sure there is no play (knock). If there is a knock on the front wheel, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal. If the knocking noise disappears, it means the wheel bearing is faulty, and if the knocking noise remains, then the ball joint is most likely worn out.

The hub bearings of the front and rear wheels are not adjustable and must be replaced if there is play.

To check the serviceability of the ball joint, insert a mounting blade between the suspension arm and the ball joint housing. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot.

How does the clutch work?

The clutch mechanism transmits torque to the gearbox. In general, it consists of a drive and the mechanism itself.

The drive is necessary to activate the clutch mechanism when you press the pedal. The drive consists of:

• pedals;
• clutch release cable;
• shutdown plugs.

Clutch mechanism

The clutch mechanism serves to transmit direct torque and consists of:

• pressure plate;
• crankcase and casing;
• master disk;
• driven disk, on which wear-resistant linings are located.

It disconnects from the engine when you press the pedal and smoothly connects when you release it.

Granta 39 7 new size

The suspension springs must not be damaged. Tearing, cracking and severe deformation of rubber bushings, cushions and compression buffers of shock absorbers are unacceptable.

Liquid leakage from shock absorbers is not allowed. A slight “fogging” of the shock absorber in its upper part, while maintaining the characteristics, is not a malfunction.

If the rubber element of the upper support of the front suspension telescopic strut settles or is destroyed, the support must be replaced.

Lada Granta. Daisies, daisies.

This happened sometime after the new year.
My wife went to a service station to change the oil. When purchasing from them, replacement is free. We have visited this station before, for more than one year. The network is quite famous and has always been distinguished by decent quality of work. Even when I still owned the Peugeot and the official dealer threw up his hands and could not identify the fault, this service center found and repaired the car. That day there was a promotion in the service. Change the oil, get diagnostics as a gift. The oil was changed quickly and diagnostics were carried out. The serviceman comes out and says:

— The car is in perfect order, but the daisies need to be replaced.

“The silent blocks of the front braces need to be changed,” the master corrected, putting his wife into an even greater stupor. If the word daisies was still familiar to her, then silent blocks seemed like a dirty word.

— What is the replacement price including labor and spare parts? - she asked anyway.

“At least five thousand rubles,” the master announces the price tag.

She kindly refused the services of the master, suspecting something was wrong and went home. Already at home she began to torture me about what kind of daisies they were, what their price was and how difficult it was to change them.

Daisies on Grant look like this:

You can see the price of the set. Is a replacement worth 4375 rubles? Of course not! Look, to replace we need a hole, a set of keys, a bucket, a hammer and a chisel or puller. You need to unscrew this bolt:

Next, pull out the saber and you can work with a hammer. The fact is that the metal part of the daisies sticks to the hole and we knock them out with a chisel.

Next, we press in new ones and put everything in place. It's the same on the other side. To do everything about everything, without having pullers, so to speak, on the knee, will take a non-professional no more than an hour of time. The service takes half an hour with smoke breaks. And for this five thousand? A bit fatty! By the way, at the first opportunity, I climbed under the car. The daisies are intact! Not a millimeter to the side! Apparently, the service wanted to raise money easily.

Here is another story from the life of my Lada Granta. Believe it or not. And don’t blindly trust services! All the best and good luck!

Source

Tools and accessories

There are not so many tools that will be required to replace all consumables, but some of them are specific.

• Set of keys, heads, knobs;
• A set of new oil seals and bushings;
• Device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks;
• Puller for ball joint;
• Jack;
• Stops;
• Vise;
• Hammer and wooden spacers;
• Soap solution.

Device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks.

You can buy it or make it yourself.

The simplest homemade device consists of a long bolt with a nut, pieces of pipe with different diameters and several thick washers.