VAZ 2109 injector does not start
Injection Zhiguli models have their own characteristics; the differences in troubleshooting for carburetor and injection engines are very significant. Thus, the owner of a carburetor engine can, with his eyes closed, determine why his car does not start. However, if you transfer him to a fuel-injected car that does not start, then the person will not know what to do. It’s understandable: an electric fuel pump, an ECU, a bunch of sensors, injectors, an ignition module. Without knowing what and in what order to look, a situation where an injection engine does not start can quite frighten the car owner. Here, as in diagnosing any malfunction, a clear, well-thought-out sequence of actions to identify the malfunction is important. So let's start, if the engine VAZ 2108 2109 21099 injector does not start, then the old rule applies here: “Either there is nothing to burn, or there is nothing to ignite.” That is, either there is no spark, or the combustible mixture does not enter the engine cylinders. 1) Check if there is a spark. To do this, unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder, press it against the ground and turn the starter. If the spark jumps at the spark plug, then the problem is in the fuel supply system. However, we must remember that if the unscrewed spark plug is wet and there is a spark, be sure to check the timing belt marks.
Mark on the camshaft gear
Mark on the flywheel
If the timing belt slips one or more teeth, the valve timing will be disrupted and the engine will not start. If the spark does not jump at the spark plug, then the cause may be: the crankshaft position sensor (hereinafter referred to as DPKV), the crankshaft pulley, the ignition module, the ECU. 1a) Many people are very afraid of the fact that there are many sensors in the injector. Yes, it’s true, incorrect operation of sensors can greatly ruin the life of the owner of this car. I’ll tell you one important detail that will immediately make you feel better: the VAZ 2109 engine will not start due to a malfunction of one single sensor - the DPKV. If any other sensor is faulty, the engine will start, but its operation will be incorrect - it may stall, not develop power, increase fuel consumption, but it must start. So, we check the DPKV, the integrity of its connector and the wiring to it. Very often the DPKV connector rots, since moisture and dirt can get into it from below, although the sensor itself is very reliable. If there is a suspicion that the DPCV is faulty, it can be removed and easily checked. Apply power to it from the battery and bring metal to its working area. When the metal approaches, the output voltage of the sensor should increase; when the metal is removed, the output voltage of the DPKV should be close to zero. If the DPKV is faulty, we change it and try to start it. If it doesn’t start, we move on. 1b) Crankshaft pulley. What could be the problem here? The problem is that part of the pulley with teeth on the DPKV is rubber, and it can either fall off or spin.
Part of the pulley with teeth for DPKV fell off
Accordingly, the DPKV does not operate when the crankshaft rotates and the ECU does not issue a spark command to the spark plugs. You can simply remove the timing belt cover and visually verify that the crankshaft pulley is spinning and is in good working order. At the same time, check the integrity of the timing belt and timing marks. 1c) The reason that there is no spark may be a malfunction of the ignition module. It is also necessary to check the connector on the ignition module for its integrity. If possible, you can take the ignition module from another car and check whether the engine starts or not. 1d) If the ECU is faulty, the engine will naturally not start. 1e) Lack of contact in the electrical wiring. All devices may be intact: the ECU, the ignition module and all the sensors. But there will be no contact between them in the wiring, for example, a wire is torn off or the connector is oxidized. 2) If there is a spark, but the engine does not start, it is necessary to check the engine power system. We check whether fuel is supplied to the injectors: 2a) Is the fuel pump pumping?
The VAZ 2109 with an injector has an electric fuel pump
The fuel pump on the injector is electric, it is immersed in the car’s gas tank. When the ignition is turned on, its operation should be heard. To check whether it is pumping fuel or not, you can loosen one of the fuel supply pipes, place a container under it and turn on the ignition - gasoline should flow from the pipe. The pressure in the fuel rail of a car with an injector can also be measured using a conventional pressure gauge. The pressure regulator installed on the fuel rail has a special outlet for connecting a pressure gauge. We connect the pressure gauge and look at the pressure in the fuel line. It should be about 4 atmospheres. If the pressure gauge does not show pressure, then the fuel pump is not working. 2b) If the fuel filter is clogged, the pump will not be able to provide the required fuel supply to the vehicle injectors.
Fuel filter
Again, you can tell whether the filter is clogged or not using a pressure gauge connected to the tap of the pressure regulator on the car’s fuel rail. 2c) Clogged injectors.
Dirty injection engine injectors
When the injectors become clogged, they either do not allow fuel to pass through at all, or the fuel flows in in smaller quantities and does not spray, but drips. Due to clogged injectors, it may be difficult to start the engine in cold weather. Such a car usually does not develop full power while driving. 2d) Fuel may not be sprayed by the injectors if they do not receive opening signals from the ECU. You need to make sure that the chips are installed on the injectors and that all wires are intact. 3) When starting a cold engine in cold weather, especially on VAZ injection engines, a phenomenon such as slipping or shearing of the timing belt teeth often occurs. In this case, the valve timing of the engine is disrupted and it cannot start. To make sure that the timing belt has not slipped, you need to remove the belt cover and check the marks on the camshaft wheel and on the flywheel shaft. If everything is in order, we move on. 4) If the candles are flooded, they need to be dried. A spark does not form on a flooded spark plug. If you unscrew a spark plug and it is all wet, then you need to unscrew all the others and calcine them on gas. If they are flooded again, you need to look for the cause elsewhere. 5) Some engines with an injection system cannot start in cold weather with an engine temperature sensor connected. This is probably a feature of the firmware or something else. You remove the temperature sensor chip, the engine starts with difficulty, but it starts. When connected - no. This feature can confuse anyone: there is a spark, and the spark plugs are wet, and the belt has not slipped, but the car will not start. I removed the temperature sensor and it started. This situation is, of course, the exception rather than the rule, but it is better for the owner of the nine to know about it. 6) Also a rare situation, but it happens. Shedding of the catalyst in the car muffler. In accordance with environmental requirements, a catalyst is installed in the Lada muffler with an injector, which reduces emissions of harmful gases into the atmosphere. If this catalyst crumbles inside the muffler, then the exhaust gases will be difficult to exhaust and the engine will either not start at all or will stall. To eliminate this point, you simply need to loosen the fastening clamp between the catalyst and the muffler so that the exhaust gases exit after the resonator.
Muffler
Sometimes an injection car does not want to start due to shedding of the catalyst in the muffler. It serves to reduce harmful emissions and is installed in accordance with current environmental legislation on all cars.
When the catalyst crumbles, the gases cannot escape normally, which means that the car will not move, since the computer will not allow it to start. It is not difficult to check this possibility - unscrew the muffler mount so that the exhaust comes directly from the resonator. If this helps, then change the catalyst.
VAZ-2115 does not start when cold
November 4, 2008, 15:58 #1
People help. I don’t know who to turn to anymore. cold weather has set in, i.e. only 0, but the car starts on the 2nd try or even on the 3rd. I've visited a bunch of car repair shops, but no one can find the reason. diagnostics show nothing. Maybe someone had such a problem?
November 28, 2008, 21:32 #2
I have the same garbage on 2114. I thought this was how it should be.
November 28, 2008, 11:38 pm #3
Buy cars of the 10th or 08th family. Or prior. Don’t ride yours until spring, they get cold.
November 29, 2008, 11:12 pm #4
March 6, 2011, 13:59 #5
Many people have a restart, the problem is not only yours.
1. The fuel should evaporate well.
2. Battery, well charged.
3. The program must match and adjust the throttle valve. It doesn’t always fit “factory”, given our disadvantages.
If the engine is grabbed and immediately (or not immediately) thrown, there is not enough mixture, this is obvious. What if there are no flashes? Either the mixture is lean and does not ignite, or the spark plugs are filled with fuel, i.e., damp. Replacing the spark plugs gives results, but they are not the reason. And the quality of the mixture and its quantity. It all depends on the position of the throttle valve, the state of charge of the battery and the control program.
Any technique gives a scatter in the readings of sensors and the operation of actuators. So it turns out that who is lucky and -35 is not a problem, and who is unlucky -10 is a problem. Any engine can start well, it requires individual tuning.
SsangYong Actyon Sports AX-7 cool! Nissan Bluebird Le-Grand
March 6, 2011, 14:10 #6
Seryoga, you give prompt advice!
March 6, 2011, 15:56 #7
A specific way to start an injection machine in severe frost
Author: Klyavin Maxim | Date: 01/05/2010
I am the owner of a Volga GAZ 3110, with a 2.3 liter injection engine. 16 V.
I pulled out the fuel pump power fuse, fortunately it is in an accessible place. When cranking the engine, I immediately started the car. The fact is that there is residual pressure left in the fuel line, which is quite enough to inject gasoline. After the engine started running, I immediately put the fuel pump fuse back in place.
After that, I realized that on my car there is no point in waiting more than 5 seconds after turning on the ignition while the pump pumps up the fuel pressure necessary for starting. Now in cold weather I immediately start the engine after turning on the ignition. A small pressure is enough to start ignition, after which enrichment (increasing pressure) is possible to overcome the loads of a cold engine.
Renault Megane Extreme
March 6, 2011, 16:10 #8
Try turning it a little longer, turning off the starter not at the moment when the car sneezed, but when it becomes clear that the engine will start. You just need to turn off the starter in time to pull the gear out of gear before the engine has time to spin up.
March 10, 2011, 21:16 #9
Malfunctions of injection cars.
Try making another start attempt with the pedal lightly pressed. If the engine immediately comes to life and, when the pedal is smoothly released, can hold idle, then this means that the idle speed controller (IAC) has exhausted its service life.
October 6, 2011, 15:38 #10
I had a similar problem. -20, that's it, sushi oars, don't start if -14, -16, please. The battery was drained at one time. Well, I think it has become old, apparently it needs to be changed. I bought a new one. Same story, only the battery lasted longer. Engine diagnostics did not reveal any faults. And only the electrician, without even opening the hood, determined - get a new starter, that’s the whole point.
Over the years of operation, the drum bushing became corroded, so the drum began to touch the body wall. So it wouldn’t start in the cold. I replaced it, pah-pah, even at minus 30-35 I don’t know the grief. By the way, the old battery still works))).
Content
The quantity and quality of the fuel mixture in the injector is controlled electronically. Sensors are located throughout the engine unit, the signals from which are intercepted from the microprocessor and converted to the fuel supply system. The same processor controls the mixture ignition system in the combustion chamber
.If any sensor malfunctions, the output control pulse ceases to correspond to the parameters of the normal functioning of the engine, and it refuses to work, in other words, it does not start.
Problems with starting the injector on the 2109 especially manifest themselves in winter, on cars that while away the nights in cold garages and “in an open field.” The morning for them begins with a long warm-up. However, after being in the cold
, the battery loses all its performance and requires recharging. That is why most motorists take the battery with them to a warm apartment in winter. Particularly advanced motorists place a hairdryer under the air filter, trying to supply warm air to the cylinders and give the engine “artificial respiration” - they say this can help. {banner_content}
Spark plugs are the next most likely cause of a failure to start the engine. After repeated attempts to start, they simply drown in fuel, as drivers say: the spark plugs are flooded. Experienced car enthusiasts recommend that in such a situation, press the gas pedal to the floor and turn on the ignition
, after such manipulation the spark plugs dry out and begin to produce a normal spark. Sources used:
- https://ladaprofi.ru/vaz-2109/chto-delat-esli-vaz-2109-ne-zavoditsya.html
- https://avtodvigateli.com/neispravnosti/ne-zavoditsya-inzhektornyj.html
- https://carnovato.ru/inzhektor-vaz-2109/
- https://autoflit.ru/278-ne-zavoditsya-vaz-21093-inzhektor-osnovnye-prichiny-i-sposoby-pochinki.html
hard to start when hot 21093 injector
until the temperature drops to 50-60, it is unlikely that you will start it, I changed all the possible sensors, compression is from 9 and higher, the spark plugs are new, the starter turns like crazy, but turns stupidly and that’s it, sometimes it picks up, what could be the problem? gasoline in the injectors there is also...
The compression is already too low, it’s possible that the boost is being poured, the hot engine will evaporate without evaporating, resulting in fuel overflow
twenty-five again, try a different ignition module
I tried it, the whole point is this: I disconnect the chip from the coolant sensor (coolant sensor) and it starts! I was shocked, I replaced it with the same boyda but it’s better, I’ll look at the wiring...
O_o how? the fan should work normally
Well, I remove the chip, the valve works, it starts up normally!
In this case, go to the e-mail for diagnostics
gasoline is rubbish. This happens to me sometimes.
Good day everyone. With hope I turn to knowledgeable people. Six months ago I bought an injection 21099, and along with it I got myself a headache. On a cold engine(t
So I have the same canoe!
Good day everyone. With hope I turn to knowledgeable people. Six months ago I bought an injection 21099, and along with it I got myself a headache. On a cold engine(t
A friend had exactly the same nonsense as you on a V8. You remove the chip from the sensor, the car starts. He drove it like that until he sold it, and when he sold it, it stopped starting at all and there was a new buyer with no problems couldn't start it.
Good day! Perhaps off topic, but I had the same problem in two cars at once! first on 15k (after measuring the compression it turned out that it was the problem. It was: 6-3-9-12...no comments) On the second car 21093, 2002. had the same problem. managed to fix it today! I previously changed the fuel pump, filter, module... nothing helped! I checked the compression 12-11-12-11, I didn’t get around to measuring the pressure in the ramp! In the end it turned out to be simple! IT WAS ABOUT THE ELEMENTARY! The ignition marks have been knocked down! in my case, the former owner turned the crankshaft gear over. and the pin was inward! As a result, the damper pulley rotated and the crankshaft sensor did not work correctly... Perhaps this information will help someone
Good day, I had the same problem, also it would not start when hot. Before the fan worked, the car started but immediately stalled, I solved the problem by replacing the relay that turned on the computer and the fan relay. After the replacement everything worked as it should.
A few words and I'll add it! On the passenger side, under the shelf, there is a small block with three relays and three fuses. These three switches often work on and off. In this regard, their contacts quickly get dirty. Therefore, these relyushki need to be looked after. They need to be removed, disassembled and the contacts cleaned at least once a year (I do this once every six months). In the relay itself, the plate with the switching contact can be easily pulled out. The contacts have the shape of a hemisphere. If the shape of the sphere is damaged, then there is no point in cleaning it; change the relay. If the shape of the sphere is not damaged, clean the contact on the plate, as well as the other contact that sits rigidly in the relay body. In this case, you should never clean it with a file; it is not advisable to clean it even with No. 0 sandpaper. Use any non-smooth or synthetic material. Afterwards, rinse the contacts with alcohol or vodka, dry naturally or with clean meter, and reassemble. If you clean the contacts once, then you don’t have to go through the procedure of stripping the gear every time. It is enough to remove the cover of the relay, put a thin clean cloth moistened with vodka or alcohol on a thin screwdriver and wipe the contacts, then use the same, but dry piece of cloth. And you will never have problems like “it won’t start when hot”! One more thing (I’ve encountered this more than once). This block has three fuses: 30A and two 7.5A. So, it is in this block that a crack appears in the 7.5A fuses in the jumper between the contacts. The crack may or may not be noticeable to the eye, the device will show that the fuse is intact, but under load it may not work! Therefore, in my car, among other things, I have a set of fuses and at least a couple of relays.
Forgot to add! The problem when the car does not start when hot can often be in the temperature sensor, which is responsible for turning the fan on and off. It is really very easy to check whether this is true. The car will not start when the engine is hot. We climb under the hood and disconnect the wires (pull out the plug) from the temperature sensor. We start the car. The car won’t start right away; you’ll have to turn the starter for about three seconds. If the car starts, change the temperature sensor and be sure that it is factory-made.
Causes
How long does it take to start the VAZ 2110 injector? There may be several reasons; they will be discussed in some detail below. We list the main ones:
- failure of the timing belt;
- wear of high-voltage cable insulation;
- failure of the temperature sensor;
- interruptions in the operation of the ignition module (its breakdown).
The list is not exhaustive, but identifies the main causes of engine starting problems. The analysis provides the only sure way to avoid problems - simply carry out preventive inspections in a timely manner and replace questionable components (for example, sensors are guaranteed to last 60,000 km. Racing). Of course, this advice cannot console those who have already encountered a breakdown, but for the future...
Let's talk about the listed malfunctions in a little more detail. As for the timing belt, everything is clear here: it needs to be changed as it wears out.
The insulation of the wires can be damaged during the operation of the car - for example, the ignition module wire often melts due to high temperatures (it is located in close proximity to the cylinder head and regularly overheats).
There may be other reasons for the violation of the integrity of the insulation. The resulting short circuits prevent the engine from starting, and this deficiency may occur periodically.
Thermometer. If there is a malfunction in this part (and even more so if it fails), problems arise with tests by the on-board computer: it cannot correctly determine the engine temperature and, as a result, the required amount of fuel mixture. The only (and least expensive) way to “cure” is to replace the sensor. You can, of course, check its functionality, but this will require special equipment.
Ignition module. Repairing at home is quite difficult, so the “recipe” is the same - replacement. If you can temporarily install a known working module and try to start with that, it's worth a try.
Candles. Apparently, diagnostics of the malfunction should begin with them. Soot, traces of fuel and other deviations from the norm confidently indicate incorrect operation. See Signs of a Bad Spark Plug.
For a beginner, the best solution would be to completely replace the set; people who are not unfamiliar with technical skills can try to “revive” the candles: thoroughly clean, remove carbon deposits, burn with a blowtorch, etc. If the spark plugs are flooded after replacement, there is a high probability that the integrity of the insulation in the high-voltage cables will be damaged.
By the way, using a working spark plug, it is easy to check the presence of a spark - you need to place the spark plug on the ground of the car with a metal surface and start the starter. The absence of a spark indicates a power problem, in which case it is necessary to continue the diagnosis.
Let us mention another cause of the malfunction - low fuel filter consumption. This is entirely on the conscience of the car owner, who ignored the timely replacement of the part, although it is possible that the filter may become clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel.
VAZ 2109 (carburetor) does not start well when cold
With the onset of winter, most carburetor cars bring trouble to their owners. The carburetor VAZ 2109 is no exception, which does not start well when cold. There can be many reasons for such a launch. This article will discuss the most common reasons why the carburetor VAZ 2109 starts poorly when cold.
Incorrect engine start of VAZ 2109
Before drawing any conclusions, it is necessary to ensure that the driver correctly follows the requirements for starting a cold engine. For these purposes, carburetor engines have a manual throttle control drive. Without using this mechanism, starting the car, especially in cold weather, is quite problematic.
You need to start the engine in the following sequence:
- Open the hood and pump up fuel using the manual fuel pump pedal
- Pull the choke control handle towards you
- Pump gasoline into the manifold using the accelerator pedal
- Without pressing the gas pedal, start the engine
You may not be able to start the engine the first time. But the second time it should. You also need to pay attention to pumping gasoline with the gas pedal. The main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise you can fill the spark plugs and then the engine will definitely not start. If this does happen and the car does not start, then press the pedal all the way, turn on the starter and, while it rotates, slowly release the gas pedal.
The starter turns poorly on a cold VAZ 2109
This is one of the most common causes of poor fret starting. There are two sides to this: the starter is stuck or the battery is frozen. If everything is clear with the first case, then the second requires special attention.
In severe frosts, it is recommended to bring the battery into the house and charge it, then starting problems will be left behind. But if this is not done, the task may become more difficult. To start, you will need to turn on the low beam for a while - this will warm up the electrolyte. After this, you can try to turn on the starter for no more than 3 seconds. Each new attempt to start the engine must be accompanied by pauses of 30 seconds, 1 minute and 2 minutes. Otherwise, the battery will run out completely and instead of traveling you will have to wait until the battery is charged.
Thickened oil
If in summer you can fill in oil with a lower viscosity or 20w40, then in severe frosts it freezes. It becomes very difficult to turn the crankshaft with frozen oil, so the manufacturer recommends using motor oils with a viscosity of 5w40 for the winter.
Another solution to this problem is the use of pre-heaters, which are connected to a 220 V network and heat up the antifreeze. Due to the heat transfer of the metal parts of the VAZ 2109 carburetor engine, the oil becomes thinner, and the engine can operate safely even in severe frosts.
Incorrect ignition timing
If the VAZ 2109 starts poorly not only when cold, but also when hot, then the problem may affect the ignition system. An incorrect advance angle impairs starting properties, making starting difficult.
Typically, starting problems occur with late ignition. In this case, you can notice black smoke from the exhaust pipe, the electrodes of the spark plugs become covered with black soot, and popping noises are heard in the muffler when you press the accelerator pedal. You can try turning the distributor a few degrees or adjusting the ignition from scratch. The problem should go away.
However, an angle that is too early results in:
- Detonation;
- Engine overheating;
- Leaning the mixture.
Problems of the VAZ engine power supply system
First of all, you need to check the air and fuel filters. If they are heavily contaminated, the engine will have difficulty starting when cold. The design of the nine provides two fuel filters located under the hood and the car and one air filter. If they are intact, then check the operation of the fuel pump.
Try pumping gasoline manually. If it pumps poorly, then the fault lies in the fuel pump.
Next in line is the carburetor. Incorrect adjustment can lead to the car being difficult to start when cold. Idle speed should not exceed 900 and fall below 700. Soot on the spark plugs is unacceptable. Otherwise, the unit needs proper configuration.
Checking injectors and timing belt
When there is a spark and its color is bright bluish, check the fuel supply: turn out the injectors and turn the engine shaft with the starter. The fuel should be sprayed from the nozzle in a uniform cone-shaped “torch”. If instead the injector pours gasoline or splashes it, then it is clogged.
If the tested components are working, then look at the timing belt. Owners of the injection “nine” have more than once encountered the situation of the belt slipping by several teeth. In winter, this can happen when starting a cold engine when the camshaft rotates heavily. To check, look at the timing mark. If it matches, check the crankshaft sensor and its wire (sometimes it comes off). Then the remaining sensors are checked.
Appeal to professionals
The reasons discussed here and briefly how to eliminate them, we hope, will answer the question why the VAZ 2110 injector takes a long time to start.
Let's assume that even a non-specialist can carry out basic diagnostics of a car, but perhaps this is not enough: the causes of the malfunction can be complex, for example, in some cases there are several preconditions for delaying starting the engine. The best solution is to seek help from professionals (car service).
Often, owners of the VAZ “Nine” are faced with a problem when the car has difficulty starting in the cold. It’s worth warning right away that there could be several reasons for this. Therefore, it is better to start your search with the simplest ones, gradually moving on to more complex ones.
Useful tips
If you can’t start a carburetor engine, you should try the following:
- lift the hood and perform a visual inspection of the carburetor;
- Check the secure fastening of all terminals and wiring. After all, sometimes the problem is in a loose terminal, therefore, without checking it, the entire carburetor is subject to repair. Financial costs increase significantly;
- Sometimes the cause of poor starting of the car is overheating of the fuel pump. If it is too hot, it may soon fail, and it is better to purchase and install a new one;
- At the same time, it is necessary to evaluate the performance of oil filters.
