Features of repair and overcooking of the underbody of a VAZ 2110 car

The VAZ 2110 car is built on the basis of the VAZ 2108 hatchback, the first experimental copy was designed in 1985, serial production of the front-wheel drive four-door sedan began in 1995, the first sales started in August 1996.

Production of the model was completed in 2014, the last car rolled off the production line, which operated under an AvtoVAZ license. Over 18 years of production, four modifications were produced: the 2110 sedan, the 2111 hatchback, the 21123 coupe and the 2112 station wagon.

Description of design

The bottom of the VAZ 2110 has the same design for all cars in the line and is made of rolled steel with additional stiffening ribs. The metal frame of the car is a type of frameless body; the entire load from the mounted units falls on the floor and side members, which act as a frame and ensure the massiveness of the entire structure.

Repairing the underbody of a VAZ 2110 in 90% of cases begins with checking the side members and involves the use of welding. The welding points that hold the body structures together are torn apart by vibrations, bolted connections become loose, and the solidity of the structure weakens.

Useful tips

To repair the underbody of a car with your own hands, experts recommend using semi-automatic machines. The additive is supplied at a fixed speed, the burner provides uniform heating. The seam is of high quality and even. When working with electrodes, an inverter with additional functions that support constant operation is convenient. They reduce the risk of electrode sticking.

Before cutting a sheet of metal, the exact dimensions of the defect zone are determined. The patch must be suitable in size and adhere to the geometry. To deform, the sheet is not heated for a long time - the strength characteristics of the alloys decrease and they become friable. Movements of the hand with the holder or attachment should be uniform, without jerking. Large sections are connected with a continuous seam, leaving gaps of up to 3 cm. Such connections better withstand dynamic loads and increase the strength parameters of the body. Such connections require a durable insulating coating. Mastic prevents moisture from getting into microscopic gaps.

Protective fluxes are used to work with galvanized iron; they preserve the coating from boiling and burning. Knowing the intricacies of the process, making the connection is not difficult. The main thing is to take your time and carefully prepare the surfaces before work. Anti-corrosion work should not be neglected. The bottom is subjected to heavy chemical load during operation. Protective compounds are applied in an even layer.

Are there any differences between the bottom of 2110, 2111 and 2112

The wheelbase size for all cars in the generation is the same and is 2492 mm, while the cars have different lengths, heights and number of doors, depending on the model:

• Sedan (2110); dimensions 4265x1680x1420 mm.
• Coupe (21123); 4193x1680x1435 mm.
• Hatchback (2112); 4170x1680x1435 mm.
• Station wagon (2111); 4285x1680x1480 mm.

The body layout of each configuration has design differences, but these differences do not affect the central bottom. The bottom of the VAZ 2110 has average prices of 3,000 rubles. and is suitable for installation on the entire line. The part is made of ferrous or rolled metal, without protective galvanization, and therefore always needs to be treated with anti-corrosion agents.

When repairs are required

For all VAZ models, a mandatory condition is periodic inspection of the body for corrosion. Already from the factory, automotive hardware must be additionally protected from rust. The first VAZ 2110 began to become covered with corrosion from the area of ​​the windshield frame. The paintwork peeled off quickly; after 6 months the first rusty plaques could be seen under the paint layer.

Cooking a rotten car body if the degree of metal destruction exceeds 70% is expensive and impractical. To protect the car from corrosion, once every 6 months it is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance and replace the old used metal.

The main reasons for rapid wear:

1. The car is over 7 years old. The bottom is checked in the inspection hole: if there is minor corrosion, metal patches can be used.
2. Accidents and driving on bad roads. Any deformation of the metal after an accident leads to the fact that the protective layer of anti-corrosion in places where it is broken is destroyed, and the metal begins to wear out faster. The same applies to frequent trips on bad roads.
3. Car parking on the street. VAZ cars need a warm and dry garage. Considering that the car body is not treated with zinc, just one winter outside can cause corrosion of the sills and bottom. Moisture penetrates through the protective layer and destroys the metal of the seal, the outer part of the bottom.
4. Water in the cabin. The liquid that has accumulated under the rubber mat quickly penetrates the bottom skin and contributes to the rapid rotting of the metal unprotected by anticorrosive.

A complete bottom repair will be required in the following cases:

1. It is impossible to put the car on a jack; the jack falls through.
2. It is clearly visible that the floor in the cabin has become uneven - the bottom is 60% rotten.
3. It is impossible to adjust the driver's seat due to the skew of the bottom.
4. Under the threshold, under a layer of putty, rust appeared. It is checked with an awl if the anticorrosive layer has peeled off.
5. The appearance of rust on the inner surfaces of the sills in the interior and arches.

Causes of rust and preventive measures

Among the reasons for the acceleration of corrosion processes on the bottom of the model with index 2112 are:

• storing the car outside during temperature changes and high humidity;
• operating a vehicle in difficult road conditions;
• water getting under the interior trim.

Almost any car over 7 years old is monitored for corrosion.

Preparation for repair

When choosing to repair the bottom yourself, you need to prepare tools and materials. For experienced craftsmen, a complete replacement of a part takes at least 3-4 days; the cost of work at a service station averages 45–50 thousand rubles. To work you will need:

1. Bulgarian. Using an angle grinder, the corrosion plaque is removed from the bottom, parts of the patches are adjusted, cut off, and welding seams are aligned.
2. Welding machine. It is recommended to boil the iron body and bottom, in particular. Semi-automatic welding with wire and carbon dioxide is suitable. You can use gas welding and 3 mm electrodes, provided you are skilled in such work.
3. Electric drill for drilling spot welds.
4. It is not recommended to carry out underbody repairs in a pit - it is inconvenient; it is better to use stands, a lift or skids; in some cases, the car is turned over on its side.
5. Sound insulation sheets.
6. Anti-corrosion set: mastic, R-80 sandpaper, primer, auto enamel.

Preparatory work step by step:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery or remove the battery.
2. Drain the fuel from the tank.
3. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the door power windows.
4. Remove the doors, marking the fastener locations on the body.

Before dismantling the doors, it is necessary to insert iron spacers into the openings or weld a channel, this will ensure that the geometry of the body is preserved if the center pillar reinforcement is rotten and there is a possibility that the roof will fall or bend in half.

Dismantling the interior

Replacing the underbody involves work inside the cabin and under the car. Dismantling the interior is carried out in steps:

1. Pull out the seats.
2. Remove the interior trim by unscrewing the moldings.
3. Pull out floor coverings and carpets.
4. Remove air vents.
5. Remove the sound insulation layer and additional anti-vibration pads.
6. Disconnect all internal wiring, twist the cables into a bundle, and remove the fasteners.
7. Remove the dashboard to open access to the engine compartment if you plan to completely replace the bottom.

If you are an inexperienced tinsmith and electrician, it is better to distribute all fasteners into separate packages and sign them. When installing the interior, this will help you avoid getting confused with the parts.

Preparatory activities

To repair the bottom with your own hands, you first need to prepare in a certain way. You will need a set of tools, premises, a lot of time, experience and desire to do such things.

Of the tools, it is especially important to prepare the following components:

• Welding machine. In the case of repairing the underbody of a car, it is better to use a semi-automatic machine with wire and carbon dioxide. It is better, more efficient and more reliable than gas and electrodes;
• Angle grinder. It will be useful, if necessary, to remove rust from the floor, to adjust elements and patches, to clean seams and surfaces;
• Car stands. Here you can use various items. So look for what you have;
• The rest of the kit is standard and includes such components as anti-corrosion solution, mastic for seams, welding wire, sandpaper, primer, soundproofing sheets, paint, etc.

Now you need to drive the car into the garage or other equipment room and put it on stands.

The machine should be positioned in such a way that it is comfortable and safe to work under it.

Disconnect the battery, then remove the doors. In this case, experts advise providing spacers for doorways in order to maintain body rigidity and the necessary geometry.

Dismantling the interior

Since you need to repair the underbody not only under the car, but also from the inside, you will have to completely disassemble the interior. This is a difficult task that will take a lot of time. Be psychologically prepared for this.

You will have to dismantle:

• Armchairs;
• Floor tunnel lining;
• Carpeting;
• Air ducts;
• Soundproofing layer.

Carefully collect all the wiring, combine it into bundles if they are not collected, so that later there will be no problems with assembly. Collect all fasteners, distribute them into boxes or bags, and label them. This is extremely important because you may face serious problems later.

If you plan to completely replace the bottom or weld a panel to the floor, then the dashboard and beard will have to be removed to create open access to the engine shield.

Lifting a car

Welding

So, you have disassembled your VAZ 2110, so now you can really assess the condition of the bottom, as well as analyze the required amount of work. The most optimal situation is one that does not require replacement of elements. The rust spots are cleaned until high-quality metal is obtained, after which they are strengthened by patches. But not everyone manages to face such a situation.

If the holes in the bottom turn out to be through, this will lead to a loss of body rigidity, therefore it is strongly recommended to replace the element completely.

In the case of the VAZ 2110, the following body elements are distinguished:

• Floor panels;
• Support platforms;
• Threshold extensions;
• Spar extensions;
• Crossbar;
• Connectors.

Now let's discuss a few basic nuances of welding.

1. To replace a part that has “slipped” due to corrosion, it must be drilled out at the welded points or simply cut off using a grinder.
2. Do not forget that the brake and fuel system pipelines pass under the bottom. It is extremely difficult to dismantle them, so the easiest way is to cut them off and install new pipeline elements during reassembly.
3. If the floor panels are in critical condition, the entire bottom assembly should be replaced. But in this case, be sure to dismantle the exhaust system.
4. If it is necessary to change the thresholds, they are dismantled and new ones are installed one by one. It is important to control the geometry.
5. If the floor and thresholds are being replaced at the same time, the thresholds are replaced first, and only then the floor panels.
6. Carefully mark the elements for welding. The old components must strictly correspond to the new ones being cut out.
7. You cannot do without an assistant, so agree in advance with someone who can help you.
8. Always start the bottom from the bottom, then grab it.
9. Do not make the main weld using a continuous weld. Maintain a step of approximately 4-5 centimeters.

When welding work is completed, be sure to carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

Welding work

Welding will be required both to replace the entire floor and during repairs, when the rotten part of the bottom is cut out and a patch is welded. The iron for the patch is cut out in advance; the size of the patch should be 2 cm larger than the hole around the perimeter. There is an option to use the original part of the bottom instead of a patch, which is sold separately.

Replacement of car underbody elements

After the car interior is cleared, a full inspection of the underbody is carried out. In some cases, you can limit yourself to a partial replacement—boil only the corroded areas. Rotting of the floor begins from the thresholds of the car; these elements are inspected first. Replacing the body also begins with reinstalling the thresholds.

The bottom of the VAZ 2110 consists of the main elements:

• support platform;
• bottom panels;
• threshold extension;
• side member amplifier;
• crossbars;
• connectors.

It is necessary to check the condition of the panels under the driver's feet, side member reinforcements, jacks or support platforms. If the overall condition of the bottom is satisfactory, you can limit yourself to installing a patch on the damaged area or replacing the bottom element from the repair kit:

1. A drill is used to drill the spot welding points with which the element is installed on the structure.
2. The element is cut out with a grinder.
   

   Under the bottom of the car on the driver's side there are tunnels for the fuel line and brake system. Removing the system on a VAZ 2110 is quite problematic; it is recommended to cut off the old lines and install new parts after repairing the bottom.

3. A metal patch is cut out.
4. The bottom is sanded and a patch is welded.
5. Welding seams are cut off with a grinder and cleaned.
6. The element is primed, sanded, and treated with anticorrosive.

Cold methods of sealing holes in metal

Cold methods of auto body repair include:

1. Metal extraction. If there is a dent on the threshold, fender without breaking the part. Use a reverse hammer or pulling hooks. Spot welding is required for repairs.
2. Applying metal patches. The method is suitable for repairing the bottom, sills, and less often wings. The patch is installed in place of a rupture or hole after corrosion by welding, less often on bolts with reinforcements.
3. Restoration by alternative methods using epoxy resin and fiberglass. This method is not suitable for repairing the bottom because it does not solve the main problem. If a corrosion hole appears, the body begins to deform and all power units are displaced. What is required is not just filling the hole, but restoring the rigidity of the structure, welding the bottom with the obligatory strengthening of the jacks and side members. It is allowed to install patches on rivets only in those areas of the body that do not bear a force load.

Final processing

After welding work, it is necessary to clean the seams with a grinder, carry out anti-corrosion treatment, and install new sound insulation panels. The bottom of the VAZ 2110 must be treated with anti-corrosion agent both from the outside and from the inside. Bottom finishing:

1. The welds are cleaned until they shine, a grinder is used, and at the final stage, sandpaper R-80 is used.
2. The seams are covered with bitumen-based mastic.
3. The bottom surface is primed outside and inside the cabin.
4. An oil-based anti-corrosion agent is applied to the inner surface. The composition penetrates into all hidden grooves and pockets.
5. The outer part of the body is treated with anti-gravel protection.
6. Sound insulation panels are cut to the required size, heated with a hair dryer, and placed on the bottom inside the cabin.
7. Doors are being installed.

The work on replacing the bottom is completed, all that remains is to mount the interior, install the trim elements, and connect the electrical wiring.

What's next?

Then we apply primer and paint. We treat the metal on both sides with bitumen mastic or gun lard. Due to their greasy consistency, these compounds will repel water and prevent it from penetrating inside the metal.

Additionally, you can apply an anti-gravel coating (if the metal is treated with mastic and not lard). After the composition has dried, we soundproof the interior. Sheets with vibroplast must be laid on a clean surface. It doesn't stick to dirt. But it will adhere fully to sticky mastic. Additionally, we roll the sheet with a special roller or with our hands through a rag. Then you can safely assemble the interior and install the seats.

How to extend the life of the bottom

The body on all VAZ models is not a high-strength unit. To maximize the life of the main part of the car, it is recommended to systematically carry out preventive maintenance. It is impossible to completely eliminate the aging process of metal, but every driver can increase the service life of a new underbody.

1. Prevent water from entering the cabin through depressurized moldings on the windshield and side doors.
2. Systematically remove the rubber mats under the driver's seat and check the floor for dryness. Systematically clean drains in thresholds and doors. Particular attention is paid to the area under the battery: under the influence of the electrolyte, the drainage holes on the platform become coked.
3. If the first rust is found on the bottom of the interior, clean it, fill it with epoxy resin, and treat it with an anti-corrosive agent with the effect of preserving corrosion areas.
4. Clean chips and renew the paintwork on the sills immediately after detection: the sills and fenders begin to rot first.
5. It is necessary to lift the car with a jack only with the doors closed.

Welding process

Before hot work, for safety reasons, the gas tank must be dismantled. The patch is first grabbed at 3-4 points, then completely scalded. Small defects are filled with short seams up to 3 cm long. Welding the bottom is difficult to do alone. When a partner holds the patch, the repair speeds up.

It is important that the patch fits tightly to the repair site. Gaps increase the risk of corrosion damage. The seams are hammered for strength. In good lighting, all repair areas are checked. If necessary, boil the connection again. Only after inspection do they begin to clean the seam rollers.

How to choose a part: average prices

To weld the bottom of a car at a car service center, the minimum price is 25,000 rubles. This applies to minor floor defects in all customer materials. A complete overhaul and update can cost up to half the cost of a car. Considering that the price of a VAZ is minimal, such repairs are not profitable for most drivers.

Many people prefer to carry out repairs and replacements on their own, buying a solid bottom. The repair kit is produced by AvtoVAZ, the element is suitable for models 2110, 2111, 2112, 2170, 2171, 2172. The cost does not exceed 4,000 rubles. Cold-rolled steel 0.8 mm thick is used in production.

There are options on the market to buy bottom elements: panels, amplifiers, connectors and cross members. The cost of each element is from 900 rubles. Parts of the bottom are chosen instead of metal patches if local repairs are necessary without welding out the entire bottom.