We install a lock from Lada Kalina on VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108

electric trunk lock

so, to make an electric trunk lock, we need:

• Two-wire door actuator for 6 KG
• Fuse 10A
• Trunk button from VAZ 2110
• Relay 90.37.47-10
• Wire 10 m (6 m is possible, but I took it with reserve)
• Female terminals 10 pcs.
• Sheathed hood cable

For those who are not well versed in electrical circuits:

Since I installed the relay next to the lock, I also powered the mass coming from the relay and the activator to the housing (right on the lock, there was already some mass there) As for the connection. I used a 3-pin button, it is called “Button for opening the trunk lid 2110”. The switching of the button is as follows: when the button is pressed, contacts 1 and 2 are switched, and when the button is pressed, contacts 1 and 3 are switched.

All that remains is to install everything in the car. Let's start with the back door. The installation diagram for the rear door can be seen in the photo below (collective farm, well, it’s still not visible):

Stuffing everything into the back door is not a problem, but running the wire into the cabin is difficult. Further along the cabin the wire is not so difficult to stretch, we just push it under the ceiling. I used a metal wire as a conductor. The most difficult thing is to get through the rubber corrugation between the trunk door and the passenger compartment. In the cabin, I ran a wire along the ceiling and down the left windshield pillar. As it turned out, at the bottom, next to the hood release handle, there was a plug for a button to open the trunk. Under the steering wheel there was a free block with a permanent plus, I bought a counterpart and powered the radio and trunk to it. Here is my conductor))) the hood cable remains:

And here is the ominous corrugation through which the wire has to be pulled. Let's just say it wasn't a very convenient place. Probably a prepared person will say that it’s easy. But when the wire goes through this corrugation for the first time, it causes difficulties.

As I wrote above, I found a plug under the steering wheel for a button to open the trunk. Why they did it is not clear, but thank you)))

Even when I installed the radio, I found a free block. There was a fuse on the block, a permanent positive one that opened when you started it. Because You won’t have to use the button often; you can safely set it to 1 plus with the radio.

Having done everything described above, you should get a working mechanism for automatically opening the trunk. Now you can deal with the aesthetic side of the issue. Everything in the interior is fine, the button is in its normal place and looks as if it had always been there. But the trim from the trunk lid does not fit back. The second stage of our refinement is the modernization of the trunk trim.

First, cut a hole in the middle of the casing so that it can then be installed in place.

Accuracy is not needed here; all this will not be visible anyway.

Now we fill it with construction foam on top, while covering the hole with newspaper from the inside. Foam will help give you the necessary head start.

Trim off excess foam. We create the form we need. The main thing is not to leave too much foam, otherwise it will interfere with closing the trunk door later.

Having made the desired shape, you need to try it on by machine. If everything falls into place well, you can continue. Next you need to cover the foam with fiberglass. I didn’t have glass fabric, so I twisted it using improvised methods. I took a piece of carpet, glued it on top of the foam and treated it with starch glue.

When everything has hardened, you can make a hole in the foam.

Finally covered it with carpet, it turned out very nice.

Having completed the hood lock, I decided that I would no longer need the key. Therefore, I decided to modify the lock so that nothing would stick out from the outside. There are two points:

1. Having pulled out the lock, a hole remains and you need to decide how to seal it. You can, of course, just drive with a hole)))) You can weld it and paint it over. However, this is time-consuming and expensive, especially if you cannot do it yourself. I decided to take the easy route and just put a (dragon nameplate) sticker there.
2. Automation is good, but you need to leave yourself an escape route and make the trunk opening mechanical, otherwise you risk someday not getting into your own trunk.

Basic faults

The main trunk problems that the owner of a VAZ car may encounter include:

• inability to close the trunk - the reason for this is most often the misalignment of the guides or the locking platform;
• inability to lock the trunk - the reason for this, as a rule, is the bursting of the lock mate, made of silumin;
• the appearance of cracks - can occur either due to skewed fasteners or due to damage to the door frame itself;
• the appearance of squeaks during opening/closing - occurs, most often, due to wear of the seal.

To eliminate them, you need to dismantle the trunk and replace worn elements (and in some cases, for example, with a general misalignment, a simple door adjustment is sufficient - we will tell you how to adjust the trunk on a VAZ 2114 at the end of the article).

1 Adjustment and repair of the trunk lid and hood lock of the VAZ 2114

It is usually necessary to adjust the trunk lock in cases where the lid opens spontaneously when moving, does not close tightly enough, with force, or does not close at all. If the trunk constantly opens, for example, when driving over bumps, the lid needs to be adjusted; most likely, the locking “tooth” of the lock, which goes inside the platform when closing, has worn out or broken. The support mechanism is replaced after removing the lock. It can be knocked out of the body and replaced with a new one, and the support pad can also be replaced, especially if there is characteristic wear at the locking point.

If the trunk creaks, wobbles, etc., most likely the seal has worn out, which affects the position of the trunk lid.

The seals can be replaced or adjusted, as they can be unscrewed, this will also allow you to adjust the height of the trunk. If the trunk does not close, there may be several reasons, the most common of which is the incorrect position of the locking platform or the rod on which the locking mechanism is attached. If gaps appear, the trunk can be adjusted using under-ceiling fasteners along the edges in the area where the lid closes.

If the trunk lock does not close, it means that the silumin parts (core) have burst, which means that the lock needs to be completely replaced. On the VAZ 2114 and other models of the family, the door and hood unlocking mechanism is non-separable, so replacement is made as a complete set.

Dismantling the old castle

Before replacing, you will have to dismantle the old closing mechanism, and this is not so easy.

The VAZ 2114 model will be taken as an example.

The following tools will be useful in your work:

• set of Phillips screwdrivers;
• key to 8.

The replacement sequence is as follows:

1. First of all, in order not to damage the interior lining of the trunk, we remove ten plastic fasteners, and then the plastic casing from the lock.
2. We remove the casing, then unscrew the nut that secures the lock in place.
3. Unscrew the wires that are in the way.
4. Next, you need to unscrew the right fastening nut and remove the inner part of the lock from the fastenings.
5. You can inspect the integrity of the spring and core. If these parts are defective, then the problem is in the mechanism. In any case, everything will have to be changed.

If you prefer the economical option of replacing it with a new mechanical lock, then install it in the reverse order as described.

Installing a new part

The removal and assembly algorithm is the same, although the instructions for installing the cylinder mechanism have its own nuances. Before inserting a new cylinder into the core, the part is lubricated with a silicone substance and only then inserted into the handle. Further algorithm of actions:

1. The return spring is inserted next to the cylinder.
2. The functionality of the key is checked. It should turn easily in all positions.
3. A pin is installed on the tip of the rotary rod. Connection is being made.
4. The inner and outer panels are screwed on, the handles are fixed, and the plug is returned to its place.
5. The main three screws are tightened from the inside.

Recommendations from experienced car mechanics

There are several tips that you need to follow when handling the VAZ lock cylinder and when replacing it. Experts recommend:

1. If the lock is jammed and has problems opening, you need to choose the time to replace it. Lubricating the mechanism or repairing it are only temporary measures that can delay the failure of the locking device for several months.
2. To avoid having to replace it again after a year, it is necessary to lubricate regularly. To do this, you need to use silicone-based products.
3. Along with the cylinder, you will have to change the springs. Please note that they must be purchased separately.
4. Before removing the lock cylinder from the packaging (new) or before dismantling it, you must insert the key into it. This will help hold the pins in place. If this is not done, they will fall out, and the work contractor will have to collect them from the floor of the box for a long time.
5. The service life of the lock depends on the user. If you carry out preventive maintenance in a timely manner and work with it carefully, the mechanism will last longer.

Try to choose high-quality spare parts, since cheap locks from China (about 150 rubles each) usually do not survive the winter season. It is best to purchase domestically produced kits (AvtoVAZ or DAAZ), which are more expensive, but will also perform their functions for several years.

Rule changes

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Car owners who have been trained in driving skills and current regulations according to the old rules must take into account the change not only in requirements, but also in wording. Previously, traffic rules required drivers to “give way to pedestrians.” Now it is necessary to “give way.” From a legislator's point of view, this difference in definitions has a special meaning.

The driver previously had to abandon the intention to start moving at the permission signal if the person crossing the street is already on the markings and he only needs to complete his movement. Now it is assumed that the motorist must study the intentions of the citizens still on the sidewalk and if one of them expresses a desire to cross the road, he must yield and wait until he completes his maneuver.

The rights of pedestrians are now fully protected; if motorists follow traffic rules, citizens will not have to stop on the line separating the lanes of the roadway or change the trajectory of their path.

The second difficult moment for the driver will be the imposition of obligations on him to prevent congestion. In an urban environment, with frequent traffic jams, the intensity of which reaches 9-10 points, the car owner is often forced, in compliance with the requirements for permitting citizens, to stop directly at the zebra crossing. This is strictly prohibited by law and a motorist will have to use all his or her due diligence to avoid committing such an offence.

Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.

1. Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
2. Turn off the ignition. The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction. Remove the training key from the ignition switch.
3. While the warning lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), insert the remote control and turn on the ignition. The immobilizer buzzer should emit three beeps. If the buzzer does not sound and the indicator has stopped flashing, this means: - the time interval of 6 seconds has been exceeded and it is necessary to repeat the learning procedure, starting from step 1; -immobilizer is faulty
4. Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
5. If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
6. After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.
7. Turn off the ignition without removing the training key, wait 6 seconds until the buzzer sounds a single sound signal. The indicator should flash twice as fast. If the sound signal does not sound and the flashing indicator stops, you should return to step 1 and repeat the learning procedure. If a repeated failure occurs when performing step 7, this means that the ECM was previously trained with a different key, in which case the controller should be replaced.
8. After the buzzer gives a single sound signal, no later than 3 seconds, turn on the ignition for 2...3 seconds and then turn it off (after turning on the ignition, the buzzer will sound three times and the indicator will stop flashing). The hazard warning lights should flash and the car horn should beep.
9. Remove the learning key. Wait with the ignition off for at least 10 seconds. Insert the working key and turn on the ignition. Wait 6 seconds, if the indicator does not flash, test start the engine, the engine should start. If the indicator flashes, turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds. Turn on the ignition. The warning light should not flash and the engine should start. If, after turning on the ignition, after 6 seconds the indicator lights up with a constant light, then the learning procedure must be repeated, starting from step 1.

Kit selection

Installation will not be possible if you do not have at your disposal a set of equipment necessary for installation. Buying it is not difficult, but you need to think about which specific option is best for you.

In total, 2 solutions to the current situation are being considered. Namely.

How to check current leakage on a car with your own hands and find the cause

Category: DIY repairs

• Factory set. Purchased from trusted and reputable manufacturers. The kit contains almost everything you need, so you don’t have to assemble different elements. But the price is naturally higher;
• Amateur kit. Here we are talking about independently preparing all the necessary components. The motorist is faced with the question of where exactly to get them and how to choose a set so that everything fits. It is difficult to do this without relevant experience and certain knowledge. But you can save a lot of money financially.

I don’t know what exactly you will choose, but I want to give one piece of advice. Buy an electric drive equipped with an inertia mechanism. This will allow you to turn off the drive when an obstacle appears in the path of the luggage compartment lid. Roughly speaking, the drive will not pinch your hand or head when you poke around in the trunk.

So the inertial mechanism is a very useful thing.

If we talk about assembling a homemade kit, then it is important to collect several basic elements. These include:

• power window module 2 pieces;
• 2 mechanisms for lifting glass;
• wires;
• diodes;
• electromagnetic relay;
• five-pin relays;
• four-pin relays;
• Relay connection block;
• springs for the lid lock;
• power tools;
• wiring;
• nuts, bolts;
• Bulgarian, etc.

As you can see, the set is quite impressive. Therefore, consider whether it is worth trying to assemble the kit yourself. Sometimes it is much easier and even more economical to purchase a ready-made factory kit with a guarantee and all the associated benefits. Price does not always play a key role.

Replacement options

The first option is banal to the point of impossibility - buy a similar lock. Moreover, you will need to buy the entire lock, and not a separate part, because the design of the mechanism is non-separable. Replacement is carried out when the old lock is completely dismantled. This solution should be considered temporary, since the production technology is the same and the problems will remain. Over time, a new lock will have to be replaced. The only positive side of this solution is that it is quite cheap.

The second option involves completely replacing the mechanical lock with an electrically controlled drive. What does this give?

1. Secure trunk closure.
2. Possibility to control the position of the rear door from the driver's seat.

Installing such a system is not the cheapest pleasure, but the final result will really please the user. The electronic drive is much more convenient to use and is a reliable replacement for its mechanical counterpart.