How to check Priora hydraulic compensators 16 valves

How to check and find the hydraulic compensator that is knocking?

you take it apart and push it through... it may be that the gap appears only when it’s hot.

What if they don’t push through at all?

If they are not pressed under all possible conditions and are filled with oil, this means that the hydraulic fluid is of high quality and functional.

that is, if it pushes through, it means it’s not working?

this means that this hydraulic fluid is under suspicion and you should take it out, try to pump it with oil (i.e. it can be pressed even if it is filled with air), if the hydraulic fluid inflated with oil releases when pressed, then a) the hydraulic fluid is worn out and it should be thrown into a landfill b) to the valve Some nasty stuff has stuck to the hydrik and that’s why he’s poisoning.

The procedure for repairing the hydraulics was recently immortalized in a video (the dude simply washed them and took them apart with a sharp blow to the tree).

You can disassemble and clean or buy new ones. I had knocking noises, I took them apart, cleaned them and there was silence.

I installed new ones. the sound did not disappear. what is the reason?

1) perhaps the sound was not from the hydraulics 2) any problems with the oil 2.1 Severe wear of the engine provides large gaps, the pressure in the system decreases, at a certain moment the hydraulic compensator does not have time to pump and begins to knock 2.2. Low oil level - in maximum power modes, the oil does not have time to drain into the crankcase, the oil intake swallows air => the hydraulic compensators become airy and after this the hydraulic valve may knock for a long time (about 10 minutes). You can also gasp for air during sharp turns. 2.3. Simply the wrong oil was chosen or it was too cold outside and the hydraulic valve is not filled with thick oil 2.4 Oil with insufficient alkaline number is used or oil is used beyond the maximum mileage on one fill => deposits occur in the hydraulic compensator valve mechanism... it begins to poison and knock...

This is all IMHO rights

I installed new ones. the sound did not disappear. what is the reason?

what kind of oil are you using?

Shell Helix 10 W40 semi-synthetic

why not synthetic oil?

This engine was purely running. At first I filled esso with semi-synthetic 110 thousand, I drove it, and after it was replaced with a mobile phone, I decided to move on and now I’m thinking about filling in a different oil

Lada Priora is equipped with a VAZ 21126 engine with an automatic gas distribution mechanism adjustment system. The gap between the camshaft cam and the valve stem is selected by a hydraulic tappet, the successful operation of which is ensured by the engine oil system. The mechanism allows you to avoid making various types of adjustments in the timing belt, reduces fuel consumption and increases the efficiency of the power plant. Fundamentals of the design and operation of a hydraulic compensator

Why are hydraulic compensators needed on the VAZ 2170 Priora

A design element of a modern engine is designed to automatically adjust the valve position. The part allows you to eliminate the manual calibration procedure every 10,000 km, which makes car maintenance easier and helps increase the power of the power plant.

The design and principle of operation of hydraulic compensators on the Lada Priora

Structurally, the hydraulic compensator on Priora looks like a metal cylinder with a spring and a shut-off valve. Inside the part there are two smaller sleeves. The operating principle of the system is based on oil pressure in the plunger. When the pusher cam leaves, the cavity inside the hydraulic valve is filled with oil. At the end of the cycle, the container is completely filled and the cam begins to push the entire structure down (open the valve). In this case, the main valve pusher rests on the part and lowers it. The opening depth is adjusted by changing the pressure of the liquid entering under the plunger mechanism.

Types of hydraulic compensators

In internal combustion engines of modern cars, two types of “hydrics” are used:

Hydraulic support is a part with a variable size, designed for installation in rocker arms, levers or directly on the cylinder head (cylinder head).
Hydraulic pusher. A hydraulic element mounted between the valves and cams of the timing shaft.

Hydromounts were used in the first versions of engines with automatic clearance compensation. In the engines of modern cars, pushers are mainly installed.

Why are hydraulic compensators knocking on a Priora with 16 valves?

A knocking sound during operation of parts appears when the supply of emulsion to the plunger is reduced and the pusher does not move evenly. The causes of the characteristic sound can be the following factors:

Wear or low quality lubricant. The correct operation of the mechanism depends on engine oil. The technical clearances in the plunger are minimal, which requires the use of a high-quality consumable.
Clogged fluid lines.
Natural aging of parts. Main engines are designed for 100,000 km. Moreover, if the machine is operated in difficult conditions, the service life is reduced by 15-20%.

How to eliminate the knocking of hydraulic pushers on Lada Priora

Timely and high-quality maintenance of the engine oil system is the key to flawless operation of the hydraulic compensator mechanism. After all, the unit is designed for use throughout the entire resource of the power plant.

Use of recommended lubricant

When the hydraulic pushers just start knocking, the manufacturer recommends changing the lubricant to a proven option. Therefore, when the question arises of what kind of oil to pour in principle, it is worth analyzing reviews to determine the acceptability of a certain model of oil product for hydraulic compensators.

Why do hydraulic compensators knock on a Priora when it’s cold?

The reasons for knocking parts on a cold engine can be several factors:

The viscosity of the lubricant is incorrectly selected. Thick oil does not pass through small channels, which causes dry friction.
Worn or contaminated lubricant. The presence of solid impurities, soot or soot makes it difficult for the mixture to flow freely.
Low pressure inside the lines, pump malfunction.
Jamming of the plunger mechanism due to sludge formation or misalignment of surfaces.
Wear of the main body. Fatigue of the spring, shell on the check valve ball.

Can the camshaft knock?

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Such a problem as crankshaft knocking is familiar to many drivers, but not everyone understands the moment when the camshaft begins to knock. This is due to the fact that the sounds that the driver hears in such a situation are very similar. Determining that the crankshaft is knocking and not any other component of the car is quite simple:

The camshaft knock can be called “dull”, and it appears when starting a cold engine;
The sounds that a bad crankshaft makes, as noted above, are similar to the sounds that occur when there is a problem with the camshaft, but there are some differences. If the crankshaft knocks, then as the speed increases, the sound becomes much louder.

When do you need to change hydraulic compensators on a Priora?

Replacing hydraulic compensators on Priora is carried out in cases where other methods of repair or restoration are not relevant. Standard diagnostics will help identify such problems.

Diagnostics

It is first necessary to remove all hydraulic compensators from the engine, disassemble and clean them for detailed study. When troubleshooting, in 80% of cases motorists encounter the following problems:

Worn or damaged integrity of the shut-off valve ball requires a complete replacement of the valve body.
The presence of solid deposits on the surface of the part. To fix the problem, just wash all the components.
Wear of the plunger pair is fraught with replacement of the block.
The presence of scratches, chips, cracks on one or more surfaces of the mechanism also requires the installation of a new part.

How to identify a faulty hydraulic compensator on a Lada Priora

You can determine which hydraulics are faulty in a simple way. It is enough to press the covers with a screwdriver through a rag. If one element is pressed too easily or does not return to its original position, the unit must be repaired or replaced. This action can be repeated with 2 or more nodes. In this case, it is recommended to perform a comprehensive replacement.

Causes of malfunction

The knocking of hydraulic compensators can be caused by two factors:

Problems in the engine lubrication system.
Failure of the hydraulic guides themselves.

You need to start by monitoring the oil pressure in the engine. If it is below the nominal value, the liquid will not be able to pass through the valve to fill the plunger pair and press the hydraulic compensator body against the camshaft.

Sometimes this happens as a result of clogged engine oil passages. They can become clogged due to untimely replacement of the filter and oil or due to the breakthrough of combustion products into the engine crankcase. A similar situation occurs when lubricant leaks from the engine. In this case, the amount of oil supplied to the hydraulic compensator plungers will be insufficient for their normal operation.

However, more often the answer to the question why hydraulic compensators knock lies in the “hydric” itself:

Distortion and jamming of the plunger pair.
Ball valve failure.
Spring weakening.
The appearance of carbon deposits on the walls of parts or in the lubricant supply channels.

You cannot ignore the noise when the engine is running. When the hydraulic compensators knock, the valve timing shifts. The valves open later and close earlier, which leads to a drop in power, increased fuel consumption and accelerated wear of the piston system.

Before checking the hydraulic compensators for functionality, you need to stock up on a phonendoscope or assemble its simplest analogue from a metal rod with a resonator. With the help of such a device, it will be possible to determine by ear the location of the defective hydraulic valve.

After finding the “culprit of the noise”, it must be dismantled, disassembled, washed and the condition of the channels and plunger pair assessed. The only way to solve the problem with non-separable parts is to replace the hydraulic compensators.

If you are not confident in your abilities as a car mechanic or do not have a special tool, when knocking noises appear, it will be easier and cheaper to contact service station specialists.

How to replace hydraulic compensators on a Priora 16 valves with your own hands

Technically, replacing hydraulic compensators on the Lada Priora can be done independently. The VAZ engine does not have a complex design and the operation can be performed even by an amateur. However, this will require preparation. At the same time, for the Lada Priora hatchback and sedan the procedure is identical.

Necessary equipment

When performing work, the motorist will need the following set of tools:

two screwdrivers (+;-);
set of spanners;
special sealant;
magnet.

Checking the cylinder head check valve

When disassembling the pusher, you will come across a cylinder head check valve, which contains a ball with a spring. Inspect the cylinder head check valve; if these elements are damaged, then only replacing the pusher will help. The cylinder head check valve along with its components can be replaced entirely, but these parts cannot be found in every car store. They are not in demand, as it rarely fails.

When you inspect the check valve, check whether it is dry or not. If the hydraulic compensator is working properly, then the check valve should be in oil. You can pour lubricant into it and see why the oil leaves.

How much do hydraulic compensators cost on Priora?

Factory hydraulic compensators for Lada Priora are supplied under the article number - 21120-1007300-86 (As in the picture below). The same parts are suitable for the VAZ 2110. The cost of the kit is about 4,000 rubles. There is also an analogue on the market from. The replacement has catalog number No. 1-59718-219. The price for 8 pieces is 350 rubles.

The work of replacing the main valve costs about 4,000 rubles. At the same time, in Moscow and other cities, the amount of repairs may differ. Experienced motorists also recommend purchasing spare parts in advance from a trusted store and bringing them to a mechanic.

You can replace the hydraulic compensators of the Lada Priora yourself. This does not require complex tools or advanced knowledge of mechanical engineering. If you are unsure of your own abilities, you can also seek qualified help at a service station.

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Assembly nuances

After replacing 16 hydraulic compensators, everything must be restored to its original form. The most important operations in order:

We clean and degrease the camshafts and seats of the bed and valve cover, both on the parts and on the engine.
We change the seals, plugs and put both shafts in place. The inlet has a special belt, which is not present on the outlet. This is its distinctive feature.
Apply Gasket sealant to the mounting location of the camshaft bed and mount it (no gasket required).
We treat the fit for the valve cover with sealant and mount it (no gasket required).
We install injectors, condenser tubes, mount the manifold, generator, its belt, pulleys and timing belt.
We restore the operation of the throttle valve, filter and connect all the wires.

Replacing hydraulic lifters sometimes results in the engine not starting due to lack of compression. As a rule, hydraulic valves are installed oil-filled and it may happen that due to the incompressibility of compensators, some valves will be open. To avoid this, it is necessary to tighten them with a clamp before installation.

If, when starting the 16-valve Priora engine, you hear knocking noises in the engine compartment, which will disappear as the power plant warms up, then you should check the hydraulic compensators (HC). When every start of a cold engine is accompanied by a knocking sound, this is a clear sign of a worn hydraulic compensator. We will tell you how to replace expansion joints yourself. We will also look at a component such as the cylinder head check valve, which can also cause defects in the operation of compensators.

Hydraulic compensators are sensitive to the quality of lubricant. If mechanical impurities are present in the oil, the part may fail ahead of schedule. Faulty hydraulic compensators cannot be repaired. After installing new compensators, you may be upset by the knocking of the remaining main valves - this is normal, but not for a long time.

Life hack: hydraulic compensators for a Priora car with 16 valves, device, price

Compensators are needed for automatic valve adjustment; if they were not there, it would be necessary to adjust the valves every 10 thousand, as on 2109. On the Prior, hydraulic compensators knock under different circumstances - and this is not always a malfunction.

They have a special knock, so experienced car enthusiasts will recognize it almost immediately. A knock that comes from the engine of a Priora car is not a very good sign that should alert you. Each car needs to be approached differently. Therefore, when hydraulic compensators on a Priora knock, make proper preparations for repairs - you need to find out what is the reason for what is happening and how you can eliminate it by correcting the situation. In this article, we have collected for you the main signs: why these parts make noise, whether the car is cold or hot.

Important: Even if the new hydraulic lifters are knocking, this is not a reason to prepare for the worst outcome - it sounds strange, but it is true. This is a VAZ, gentlemen, and everything can happen on it.

These parts have 16 valves on the Priora. (if taken as a complete set) they are not so little. The price starts from 4000 rubles and above. Replacing hydraulic compensators is labor-intensive and I don’t recommend getting into the engine yourself without experience. At a service station, such work for a Priora car will cost from 5,000 rubles and more.

Verification methods

Now the motorist is faced with the task of finding out whether the expansion joints on his car are working or not. What is the best thing to do in such a situation?

There are two verification options.

The first option involves removing the valve cover. The method is more visual and allows you to almost certainly guarantee the correct diagnosis. But implementation is more difficult due to dismantling work;
The second option does not require the elements to be dismantled. But here you need good hearing. To improve it, it is better to use a phonendoscope. By listening to the operation of the main engine in different modes, you can find the source of the problems.

Which option should I choose? It's up to you to decide.

Both verification methods have their strengths and weaknesses. For a beginner in such matters, I would recommend starting by listening to the hydraulic compensators. If wiretapping does not yield anything, then open the valve cover and more clearly examine the condition of the elements.

Wiretap check

The preparation for the procedure is extremely simple. You need to place the car on a flat surface, open the hood, start the engine and listen.

Even perfect hearing does not always allow one to clearly recognize a non-working compensator. It is better to take an auxiliary medical instrument to help. It's not difficult to find.

And here we will consider several situations. Depending on the result of the check, we will draw appropriate conclusions.

After starting the engine, the noise appeared at first, but disappeared after a few seconds. Everything is fine with compensators. Lubricant just temporarily leaked out of the cavities of the main body. The engine turned over and filled them;
The speed is idle, and the noise from the compensators is intermittent. As soon as you raise the speed, the noise goes away. There is a problem. It lies in the bushing or blockages;
The engine is warm, the speed is idling, the noise is continuous. By increasing the speed, the noise disappears. This means that the gap has increased;
The symptoms are similar to the previous point, only at low speeds there is no noise, but at high speeds there is. Here you are faced with foaming of the oil;
One or several knocking noises occur at once, regardless of engine speed. Any of the above malfunctions are possible here.

By applying the wiretapping tool one by one to the area where each of the compensators is located, you can understand where exactly the problem is.

If the noise of one HA differs from the others, you have found the source of trouble. All that remains is to figure out the reasons and eliminate the malfunctions.

Disassembly check

To check these elements for their functionality, you can remove the valve cover. Next, you will have to rely on your own feelings when checking elasticity.

You will have to turn the crankshaft using the center nut to do this. This will set the shaft in motion.

When the pusher cam is directed in the direction opposite to the main body, check the elements one by one for their elasticity, whether there is free play.

You can use your hands or available tools. When the compensator is loose and moves too softly, it is faulty. Needs renovation.

Hydraulic compensator operating principle and design

The hydraulic compensator is a small cylinder, inside of which there is a spring and a pair of even smaller cylinders - plungers, as well as a check valve. The operating principle of the engine is such that it achieves maximum efficiency when the chamber contains a “clean” mixture - exclusively fuel and air.

When gases remain there after one cycle, the mixture becomes increasingly less pure and the engine produces less power. In order for gases to leave the chamber in time, the operation of the valves must be harmonious. There are hydraulics for this - they constantly adjust the position of the valves. And oil enhances their work and helps fight friction.

The oil enters a small gap under the plunger, presses on it, and after that the pusher exerts force on the valve. When at rest (during the so-called “break” when the cam moves), the pusher is constantly in contact with the camshaft cam, which is ready at any moment to move it down so that the valves open even more.

On Priora, the knocking sound of hydraulic compensators appears when the trajectory of their movement changes. That is, when they have to change the position of the valve, they move “crookedly”, and their efficiency approaches zero. There can be several reasons for problems with hydraulics and valves. Diagnostics may lead to the discovery of other faults.

Additives for hydraulic compensators

The first thing you should do when the hydraulics start knocking is to try to clean the channels. Removing blockages manually is a labor-intensive process that requires complete disassembly of the engine. Therefore, to remove carbon deposits, a special additive for hydraulic compensators is used, which effectively dissolves build-up in the channels. There are many brands on the market, among which the following are worth highlighting:

Lavr is a Russian company that has been producing oil and fuel additives since 1997.
Wagner is a German company that also produces lubricants under the Windigo brand. Liqui Moly is a German company that is one of the leaders in the production of oils and additives.
Hi-Gear is a well-known American concern specializing in auto chemicals.
Mobil (Mobil) is a brand of synthetic oils and additives from ExxonMobil, whose headquarters are located in the USA, and production facilities are scattered across all continents.

There are two types of additives: for permanent use and for cleaning channels. The first prevents the appearance of deposits and gradually dissolves existing ones. The second is to effectively restore lubrication systems and hydraulic compensators, restoring their operation. It is filled in for a short time shortly before changing the oil. The maximum effect is achieved by an integrated approach: constant use of additives along with periodic flushing of the lubrication channels.

Replacing hydraulic compensators on a Priora (16 valves)

For work, prepare the following tools:

flat-head, Phillips-head screwdriver;
socket wrenches;
You may need a cylinder head gasket; replacing it will allow you to be safe from the fact that the spark plugs may flood the spark plugs with oil;
sealant;
magnet - for convenience.

Replace expansion joints on a Priora car according to the instructions:

Stop the car with the handbrake. Lift the hood.
Loosen the clamp securing the crankcase ventilation hose (main circuit).
Disconnect the hose from the cylinder head fitting. Cover the fitting with rags to prevent any objects from getting inside.
Remove the bracket for the wires of the injectors and ignition coils, having first unscrewed the bolts with the “10” head.
Disconnect the throttle assembly wiring harness from the cylinder head, having first removed the fastenings with the same head.
Let's move on to the cylinder block cover. All fifteen screws will have to be unscrewed. To do this, use the E-8 head. Please note that it is additionally secured with sealant.
Therefore, use a plastic screwdriver to carefully pry the cover in places where there are visible gaps, and then lift it. At this point, evaluate the camshaft lobe wear. It should not be covered with chips or other signs of mechanical damage.
Now you can check the faulty hydraulic compensators. Avoid damaging the valves of the gas distribution mechanism; handle them carefully.
Remove the faulty hydraulics with a magnet and put new ones in their place, securing them in a level position.
Along the way, you should inspect all parts, assessing the degree of wear. This will help to find the reasons for the wear of the hydraulics or the consequence - something that has worn out faster due to their improper operation.
Replace sequentially. Do not forget to coat the cylinder head cover with sealant to ensure maximum adherence to the body.
Reassemble the components in reverse order, check the operation of the new hydraulic tappets by starting the engine.

How hydraulic compensators knock: video

Basics of the design and operation of a hydraulic compensator

Configuration

The idea of automatic regulation of thermal clearances can be implemented in two versions: a conventional hydraulic pusher and a hydraulic support. The latter is used in gas distribution modules with rocker arms. On the Lada Priora in the sixteen-valve version, the intake and exhaust are equipped with individual camshafts. The optimal solution for this arrangement is the use of a hydraulic pusher.

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The Priorov hydraulic compensator on the 126 engine consists of the following parts:

A plunger pair, including a cylindrical cage and a piston with a ball valve.
The outer housing is a pusher.
System of grooves and holes for oil supply.

Principle of operation

The oil composition enters the internal cavity of the piston and, overcoming the resistance of the spring, pushes the ball away to fill the closed cylinder. When filling the liner, oil pushes the piston out and the hydraulic tappet rests against the cam. Next, the ball valve is locked and the assembly unit works like a regular pusher on motors with an adjustable valve mechanism.

How to identify a faulty hydraulic compensator

Before work, analyze the wear of all pushers, otherwise the case where someone changed the working compensators will repeat. The search for knocking hydraulic compensators of Priora 16 valves involves conducting several experiments or tests. It is basically calculated that Priora hydraulic pushers operate for 100 thousand kilometers.

These parts may rattle when starting a cold engine, and then continue to make noise even when the engine warms up. Knowing about this malfunction, follow these steps to identify faulty Priora hydraulic pushers:

Check the main valve ball valve. If it is worn out, then nothing can be done - the hydraulic valve will have to be changed and a new part installed in its place.
The internal cavity of the pusher is contaminated with used grease or oil. If the cases are not critical, you can wash the hydraulics and then coat everything inside with a good oil composition.
A couple of plungers are worn out - these are two small cylinders. The part cannot be repaired, so it will also have to be replaced.

How to extend service life

Hydraulic compensator parts constantly operate in an oil environment, so their wear under normal conditions is minimal. Problems arise only for two reasons:

Use of low-quality lubricants.
Insufficient oil level.

Considering that modern cars are equipped with sensors for monitoring the pressure and amount of lubricant in the system, the second reason is relevant only for inattentive drivers and owners of old cars with faulty sensors.

More often, hydraulic valves fail as a result of oil channels becoming clogged. This happens due to untimely replacement of lubricant or the use of low-quality products.

The only way to extend the life of the engine and hydraulic compensators is to use proven lubricants and additives, remembering to change them in a timely manner.

Operating principle of hydraulic compressors

The principle of its operation is as follows. When the cam is turned with its blunt side towards the pusher, a gap is formed, and at this time the plunger, under the influence of the spring, closes it, rising upward, and the oil through the channel, bypassing the ball valve, enters directly into its cavity.

When the camshaft cam is turned on the opposite side, it presses on the pusher, sending it down. And at this time the valve is closed by the ball, since the force of the cam is transferred to the plunger.

Central locking: what is it and how does it work

In summer, winter oil is used;
In winter, summer lubricant is used;
the compensator has failed;
The main body is damaged;
there is severe wear on the compensator;
the oil filter is clogged;
pressure reducing valve is broken;
The oil pump (pump) is not working correctly.

There is nothing difficult in checking the performance of elements such as hydraulic compensators. The work can be done with your own hands in standard garage conditions.

But whether to eliminate the identified causes yourself or not is a much more serious question. I recommend thinking twice before getting into the engine with your own hands. It's not as simple as it might seem. If you are confident in your abilities, then go for it.

What you definitely shouldn’t do is continue to operate your vehicle when there are obvious knocking noises in the hydraulic compensators. If you ignore this advice, you will face even more serious and costly breakdowns.

Thank you all for your attention! Subscribe, ask questions and stay with us! It wouldn’t hurt to invite your friends to join us either!

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Knocking after replacement

Usually new parts don't knock.

If you still hear sounds, then this is a manufacturing defect or a problem with the valves. In order to perform an accurate diagnosis and make sure that there is nothing wrong with the valves, it is necessary to check their fastenings. There is a possibility that the parts did not shrink as required. We simply tighten them and thereby remove the knock of the hydraulic compensator.

Which hydraulic compensator is making the knocking noise?

To determine which hydraulic compensator is making a knock (usually their number is equal to the number of valves in your engine), they use a diagnostic method “by ear”, using a technological version of such a medical device as a phonendoscope - you have almost certainly seen it on your therapist’s neck.

It is this device that allows the master to say exactly where the source of the knocking lies, although real professionals, of course, will determine this without any phonendoscope.

After diagnosing the knocking part, you need to remove the hydraulic compensator, thoroughly clean it, then install it in place and start the engine again.

If the knocking noise persists, the hydraulic compensator is considered to be out of order, and the service will replace it.

If the knocking continues after replacement, the reason most likely lies in the quality of the oil used, or in other engine components. The latter is unlikely, since diagnosing a sound source using a phonendoscope is an accurate procedure and, as a rule, does not cause failures.

Consequences of inaction when hydraulic compensators knock

If the knocking is actually caused by hydraulic compensators, untimely replacement or repair of hydraulic compensators will lead to a reduction in the service life of the gas distribution mechanism drive and the cylinder head.

Repairing both the first and second nodes is an expensive and burdensome pleasure.

And finally, let’s say that you can, of course, both diagnose the problem on your own and also fix it yourself.

But flushing or replacing hydraulic compensators is a direct intervention in the power unit systems of your car, so if you feel the slightest doubt in your abilities, take the trouble to contact an authorized service center.

If you “mess up”, you will still need to contact the “officials”, and they will definitely determine that someone has already looked under the valve cover before them, because even checking the hydraulic compensators requires opening the valve cover and turning the crankshaft manually.

In the worst case scenario, you will not only pay for expensive repairs to the power unit or timing drive, but will also be excluded from warranty service (if your car is still covered by the warranty).

Timely identification of the problem and simple operations to eliminate it, even if you contact a service center, are the key to saving your money and the resource of the machine’s power unit.

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What it is?

The part is a small hydraulic device. It automatically eliminates the effects of linear expansion in the valve train mechanism during engine operation as parts expand.

The gaps are adjusted using the oil pressure in the engine. The gap is adjusted between the valve and the camshaft. With the help of such compensation of thermal gaps, the engine does not lose dynamic characteristics, fuel consumption is optimal after warming up. Also, due to the presence of hydraulic compensators in the VAZ-2112, the engine is quieter than similar engines with a mechanical valve adjustment system.

How did they appear?

The hydraulic compensator on VAZ cars has replaced ineffective mechanical adjustments of the timing mechanism. Often a regular valve on classic VAZ engines is not equipped with a compensator. Therefore, drivers adjusted valve clearances every 10 thousand kilometers. The work had to be done manually. The valve cover was removed, measurements were taken with a feeler gauge and the required gap was set.

If the driver did not adjust the valves, the engine operation was accompanied by loud noise, dynamics were lost, and fuel consumption increased. After about 50 thousand kilometers, the valves required replacement, as they were severely worn. As an alternative to mechanical adjustment, AvtoVAZ decided to offer a more modernized design.

On engines for front-wheel drive cars, special pushers were installed in front of the valve. A “hat” was put on the valve. The diameter of the pusher is large enough, and due to this, wear has been reduced. It takes longer for a larger diameter to wear out. Yes, the wear rate has decreased, but the need to adjust the valves remains, although now it has to be done less often.

Typically, tuning consisted of adding tuning washers, which decreased or increased the height of the pusher. This adjustment, despite its archaic nature, is quite effective, and some automakers use this method to this day. Valve clearances in such a mechanism need to be adjusted once every 50 thousand kilometers. On some foreign cars, pushers can live even longer.

Among the advantages of this solution are the simplicity of the design, the absence of oil requirements - even mineral oil will do. In addition, the design turned out to be very cheap. Among the disadvantages, reviews note that if the washer has worked, then the engine becomes noisy, fuel consumption increases, and dynamics decrease. AvtoVAZ thought about a design that would automatically regulate thermal clearances in the valve mechanism.

And so, instead of mechanical adjustments, VAZ-2112 hydraulic compensators appeared. At that time it was a completely new technology. In fact, everything is very simple - the driver no longer needs to manually adjust the gaps. The hydraulic compensators themselves will automatically select the desired parameter for each valve.

Device

The VAZ-2112 hydraulic compensator is a plunger mechanism. Inside the metal case there is a plunger valve, a ball, and a spring. There is also a channel for oil passage inside the element. If we consider the principle of operation, the device can be understood better.

Principle of operation

The hydraulic compensator is an intermediate part between the valve and the camshaft cam. When the cam does not exert pressure on the compensator, the valve is closed under the action of the cylinder head spring. Inside, a spring presses on the parts of the plunger pair. Due to this, the compensator body moves towards the camshaft cam until it completely rests against it. In this case, the gap will be minimal.

The required pressure inside the plunger pair is exerted due to oil pressure. It is fed through channels into the cylinder head and then passes through the holes in the compensator. Then inside it bends the valve and creates the necessary pressure.

Next, the cam goes down and presses on the compensator. The oil inside the plunger presses on the valve and closes it. The compensator turns into a rigid element, which, under the pressure of the cam, opens the valve of the timing mechanism.

It must be said that the hydraulic compensators on the VAZ-2112 (16 valves) are quite highly efficient devices. The oil is squeezed out of the plunger before the ball closes. So, a very slight gap may form, which will go away the next time the oil is supplied. The compensator will become rigid again.

It doesn’t matter to what temperature the engine is heated: the gap will always be the most optimal. The mechanism does not require adjustments during its entire service life. Even if there is wear, adjustment is not necessary. The compensator is always pressed against the camshaft.

Sample recommendations for repairs

Let the malfunction be caused by the reason indicated under number 1 or 2. Then the compensator must be replaced, and there can be no other options. If we talk about “reason 3”, it is usually recommended to clean the compensator, but this will require dismantling.

Four types of hydraulic compensator modules

It’s better to immediately replace the faulty module without disassembling it. The diameter of the module body does not exceed 10-15 mm, and repairs will be difficult.

If the noise of the compensators appears at high speeds, a conclusion is drawn about foaming of the oil (see above). The cause of the malfunction is then looked for like this:

Check the oil level on a cold engine;
If necessary, add oil or drain excess. The last step is simple to perform: instead of the dipstick, a tube from a dropper is installed, and the liquid itself is drawn out with a “pear”;
Start the engine, gradually increase the speed;
If the noise effect appears again, it is concluded that air enters the lubrication system through damaged parts.

In the latter case, the owner has a direct route to service. We wish you success.

Source

Instructions for restoring the performance of hydraulic pushers

To access the hydraulic compensators, you will need to partially disassemble the gas distribution mechanism. The simplest test is to press the device with your finger - it should remain as rigid as possible. If the pressure causes the pusher to “fall through”, then the assembly is removed and washed. To do this, we suggest using the recommendations.

Required spare parts

Article numbers 2112-1007300-01 and 2112-1007300 indicate hydraulic pushers manufactured by AvtoVAZ - this is the catalog number. They need to be purchased for repairs. The price of the set is about 3,300 rubles (per piece – 220 rubles). You can also buy spare parts with article number 420007310 INA. They are suitable for replacing VAZ 2112 hydraulic compensators (16 valves), but the price of the set is higher - up to 2,700 rubles (per piece - 280 rubles). Another analogue is Herzog HL0 7300. Price 2700 rubles. The compensator Master-sport 2112-1007300-SET/16/-MS is also recommended for installation on VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112.

Tools required for repairs

To work you need to prepare the following tool:

magnetic screwdriver;
jack;
a set of keys;
rags;
sealant or degreaser.

Independent replacement of VAZ 2110 hydraulic compensators 16 valves is completely justified economically. In car services, as of July 21, 2019, the price of repairs averages 3 thousand rubles. In addition to money, you will save personal time.

Sequence of operations

To replace the hydraulic compensators of the VAZ 2112 and other models, you need to drive the car into an inspection hole, drive onto an overpass, or lift it with a jack. It is important to ensure reliable fixation of the vehicle and sufficient illumination of the work area. Now you can start working:

For safe work, you need to turn off the on-board power supply; to do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Removing the plastic engine shield - unscrew the four bolts.

Now you need to loosen the mount of the generator on the mounting plate; to do this, loosen the nut.

You need to remove the generator drive tension belt. To do this, loosen its tension by rotating the nut counterclockwise.

Removing the engine intake manifold and receiver. The hole must be closed to prevent dirt and foreign objects from getting into them.
Then you need to dismantle the right wheel and the plastic shield covering the engine compartment. Now use the pulley bolt to turn the crankshaft clockwise.
The lower pulley rotates to the camshaft timing pulley mark to the antennae on the rear timing cover.
The camshaft pulley fastenings are loosened and the timing belt is removed.
To completely dismantle the camshaft pulleys, you need to check the marks on the timing belt housing. They must line up exactly with the marks on the pulleys.
Using the heads, 15 fasteners of the cylinder head cover are unscrewed.
Now twenty fasteners of the camshaft bearing housing are unscrewed.
The camshaft bearing housing is removed.
The camshaft is completely removed, along with the seals.
A magnetic screwdriver is applied to the end of the hydraulic pusher, so it is removed from the head socket.
New spare parts are installed in place of the old compensators in the cylinder head sockets.
The cams and bearing journals are lubricated with oil, the shafts are installed in the head supports. Note! To easily distinguish the intake camshaft from the exhaust device, there is a belt on its first journal.
Now you need to tighten the nuts until they touch the cylinder head of the bearings. The operation is performed in a certain sequence, it is shown in the figure.
The valve cover, timing belt and pulleys are returned to their original locations. Further operations are performed in reverse order.

For the sequence of replacing hydraulic compensators on the VAZ 2110 and other models, watch this video: