Ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, increasing the ground clearance of the Lada 2110. How to increase the ground clearance of the VAZ 2110

Despite the global trends regarding the relatively low “landing” of cars, this is, frankly speaking, unacceptable for Russian roads. The achievements of the creators of the “ten” include the fact that the ground clearance on the VAZ 2110 is quite sufficient, one might say optimal for city conditions and paved roads (which for the most part leave much to be desired).

VAZ 2110 with lowered suspension

How to properly increase a car's ground clearance

The vehicle's ground clearance is a parameter that does not happen much on our roads. Although, if you look from the other side, it is not uncommon to come across a car on the street with a lowered suspension.

Most often they decide to increase clearance due to the following cases:

1. A loaded car hits the fender liners with its rear wheels or the mudguards on the ground, so they want to lift the rear of the car.
2. It touches the bottom or crankcase protection on uneven roads, so they want to raise the front of the car.

In some cases, they decide to raise the rear and front suspension at the same time. It is no secret to many that after such actions some troubles may arise, wear of some components may increase, and the characteristics of the car may change. Let's try to find the answer to the question: how to increase ground clearance without negative consequences.

Safety

Whatever method of increasing the ground clearance on the VAZ 2110 you choose (if you need it, of course), remember that safety comes first. You want to get a car that will be more stable on the road, and not ready to roll over every minute even on a small obstacle?

Therefore, be sure to adjust the suspension to increase its elasticity. Swap out the regular tires on your car for low-profile tires. To ensure this, also install additional stabilizers.

Sources:

https://xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai/articles/442-uvelichit-doroz https://www.vazzz.ru/kak-podnyat-peryod-na-vaz-2110/ https://vazweb .ru/desyatka/podveska/klirens.html

How to properly increase a car's ground clearance

The vehicle's ground clearance is a parameter that does not happen much on our roads. Although, if you look from the other side, it is not uncommon to come across a car on the street with a lowered suspension.

Most often they decide to increase clearance due to the following cases:

1. A loaded car hits the fender liners with its rear wheels or the mudguards on the ground, so they want to lift the rear of the car.
2. It touches the bottom or crankcase protection on uneven roads, so they want to raise the front of the car.

In some cases, they decide to raise the rear and front suspension at the same time. It is no secret to many that after such actions some troubles may arise, wear of some components may increase, and the characteristics of the car may change. Let's try to find the answer to the question: how to increase ground clearance without negative consequences.

conclusions

Selecting and installing a spacer for VAZ-2114 shock absorbers to increase ground clearance is quite simple. Even a novice motorist can cope with this task.

It turns out that my husband installed spacers for me secretly :) I thought there were factory ones at the back. Now I'm convinced that this is a revision. It’s clear why my butt is raised so much...

This seems like a joke. If someone is serious about using the 2114 for cargo purposes, it would be better to sell it right away. In a year or two he will simply ruin the car.

VAZ 2110 body weight for scrap metal

I took the car for spare parts, I took off everything I could, I wanted to sell it as metal, but there are no scales to weigh the body. If anyone knows, tell me how much the bare body of a VAZ 2110 weighs (without doors, trunk lid, hood, rear and front beams, A-pillars, and fenders) in advance thanks a lot!

Comments 16

330 kg turned out

I also sold it without a roof for 2k, with the price of metal being 6.5r/kg

everywhere? Some of us also have 5. There are also 7, but there the scales are twisted too much))

yes, if you take the current to the city

at a price of 7-8 rubles per kg they give about 2-2.3 k for a bare body. cut into pieces. This makes it easier to transport and weigh

If the body is alive, they can buy a quarter or anyone who needs anything (left glass, roof, rear part), and this is more expensive than scrap metal

It’s a long time and he’s bothering me...

they seem to cost more in pieces)

from a penny entirely without doors and hood - pulled 330 kg, from 10 I don’t know

They accept bodies, don’t listen to anyone, you’ll just have to look where. I personally went there to hand over the metal - there was a gantry crane and scales on a hook, and workers there cut the bodies with a cutter and loaded them into the wagons right away. In small caricatures this may not be accepted, but in general they may require some kind of paper, a passport 100%. I didn’t hand over the body itself, a friend had been carrying a penny for a long time, he didn’t even ask about the weight.

The curb weight of a vehicle is the weight of a vehicle with standard equipment, various consumables (oil, coolant, etc.), but minus the weight of passengers, driver and luggage.

Technical characteristics of the “tens”

Initially, the car was equipped with a carburetor engine with 73 horsepower. What do reviews say about this VAZ-2110 engine? The motor did not differ in dynamic characteristics. Acceleration to hundreds took 14 and a half seconds. And the maximum speed barely reached 165 kilometers per hour. The carburetor required constant adjustment. And consumption in the city is about nine liters per hundred. In 2000, the “tens” came with a 1.5-liter injection engine. This unit was one and a half seconds faster than the previous one. In terms of fuel consumption, it is also more economical. A car spends up to eight liters of 92 per hundred in the city. Maximum speed is 170 kilometers per hour.

But the most valued in the lineup are the 1.6-liter engines. They came with both eight- and sixteen-valve timing mechanisms. These engines produced 81 and 90 horsepower, respectively. The “Ten” 1.6 accelerated to hundreds in 12-13.5 seconds. And the maximum speed was 180 kilometers per hour. In terms of fuel consumption, these engines were very economical - reviews say. VAZ-2110 consumed 7.5 liters in the combined cycle.

Checking the condition of the pillows

We do it in the following sequence:

• We lift the car and put it on supports;
• We place a jack under the crankcase pan, place a board (wooden block) between the head of the jack and the crankcase - so as not to damage the pan;
• Raise the engine with a jack until the weight of the engine stops putting pressure on the cushions;
• We inspect the pillows for cracks. The pads should be hard and easy to separate from the metal backing ;
• We check for play between the pillow plates and the motor frame. If there is play, you need to lower the engine and tighten the nuts and bolts securing the airbags;
• If the cushions are intact, lubricate them with a protective compound before lowering the engine.

Replacing airbags on a VAZ 2110 with an engine of 16 or 8 valves is similar. The 16-valve engine has additional mounts and no rear airbag. Our instructions will tell and show you how to change the pillows on both models.

Let's start with body transformation

The manufacturer did not set out to create an original design. This car is an average urban station wagon from the 90s. The shapes are smooth, the body lines are straight, there are no bulges. Compared to modern models, Lada 111 remains unnoticed.

We begin tuning the VAZ 2111 with our own hands by installing new bumpers. We replace the civilian front bumper with a tuned one. The car accessories market is replete with all kinds of bumpers, stuffed with body kits, stampings and original parts. There are many options specifically for the standard mountings of the VAZ 2111. Installing front protection will instantly transform the frontal projection of the Lada.

Depending on the concept of tuning the Lada 2111, there are 2 main types of bumpers:

The first option is the details with which the appearance of the car becomes dynamic and aggressive. In this case, there are massive bumper shapes, body kits, original stamped transitions and a lowered design.

The classic style implies a solid low bumper without sharp inserts. This bumper has convenient large recesses for fog lights, radiator grille and air intake. An ergonomic location for the license plate seat must also be ensured.

After installing the front protective element, modifications are made to the side skirts and rear bumper. Leaving only the front bumper is unaesthetic, because when looking in profile, differences in ground clearance are visible. You can customize the parts included or combine styles. When installing tuned body elements, do not forget about the quality of Russian roads. Bumpers and skirts that are too low are impractical.

What can be done What to pay attention to If you are going to repaint your Lada 111, do it before installing the bumpers, so that you can then match the protection to the color of the body. You can do the painting process yourself or rely on specialists. When painting a car with your own hands, you need to dismantle the civilian bumpers, and also seal all the windows, headlights and wheels. Additional tuning of the car after painting is the application of vinyl. Choose the design you like at the tuning studio

Then paste the stencil onto the surface of the body area and paint. After painting, we peel off the excess parts, resulting in an original drawing. The finishing touches will help complete the exterior tuning. This is the modernization of rear-view mirrors, installation of deflectors, air intakes on the hood and roof rails of the VAZ 2111. Many may disagree about the last element, because the roof rails of the VAZ 2111 give the car the appearance of a “country” cargo station wagon. A matter of taste.

FakeHeader

Comments 22

I was also exhausted about 2 years ago so that I could take it and not make a mistake.

At first I wanted to replace the liners in the racks. but mine turned out to be factory-made, not dismountable.

adapters are for sale, a piece of pipe with threads. I already wanted to buy them, cut off my racks and weld these pieces.

then I thought, what for is this hemorrhage needed.

I decided that I don’t have to climb into the suspension very often, so it needs to be done well and for a long time.

ordered and bought through the office. dealer (this is important) SS20 struts, comfort tips, ball-TRACK springs, supports, “daisies”, silent blocks are also new.

I struggled with it for 2 days. Everything there was rusty and no one probably climbed before me.

I was pleased with the result, the suspension is not stiff but also not rolly, like on my native SAAZs.

gas meat ftopka, like on a mallet, don’t even think about taking them.

To raise the rear, we install spacers between the lower end of the rear shock absorber and the eyes of the rear suspension beam of the VAZ 2110

We choose spacers of an acceptable height, allowing you to raise the rear in two positions - 40 or 55 mm.

We attach the parts to the rear axle beam with a backward bevel if we raise the rear to a greater height, or with a forward bevel if we raise it to a lower height.

When the rear end is raised, three important parameters change: the position of the brake force regulator (“sorcerer”); headlight adjustment; the longitudinal inclination angle of the steering axis of the front wheels (caster). Adjustments - in the sections Checking and adjusting the rear brake pressure regulator drive of the VAZ 2110, Lighting and light signaling, Front wheel alignment angles.

We hang up the rear wheels of the VAZ 2112.

Using a socket and a 19mm wrench, unscrew the nut of the lower mounting bolt of the VAZ 2111 shock absorber.

We insert a spacer between the eyes.

Install the spacer and insert the bolt.

Tighten the bolt nut to a torque of 7.0–8.5 kgf•m.

Insert the bolt securing the lower end of the shock absorber and tighten the nut.

We lower the VAZ 2111 car onto the wheels and only in this position tighten the connection with the same torque.

To properly install the pressure regulator, press the rear part with a force of 40–50 kgf.

Materials used

Reviews from friends, online users and personal observations made it clear that it is extremely important what spacers you buy. When we install the first items we come across, bought for pennies, we greatly risk our own health and the health of our car.

Go shopping, go to the same Aliexpress, look carefully at the drawing of the proposed spacers. But the most important thing is the material they are made from.

Today spacers are produced on the basis of three different materials.

• Aluminum. Aluminum spacers are quite reliable. By installing them, you will eliminate the process of deformation of the bushings, and also provide a fairly high level of comfort. Many spacers have a negative impact on the ride comfort and performance of the car. Aluminum, as a rule, affects these characteristics less than others.
• Polyurethane. Polyurethane analogues are deformed due to the impact of springs on them when you often drive on uneven roads. Therefore, over time, the risk of damage to the body by its own bushings increases.
• Polymer or plastic. Plastic products are the most reliable and high quality. But only on condition that you buy spacers from truly proven and well-established manufacturers.

#7 11:39:39

Master From: Cherepovets Auto: two FF2 Registration: Messages: 24813

Thanked 1412 times in 1251 messages

Now I looked through the catalogues. On 2112 they can install springs from 2110, but this is probably only for 8kl.

Negative consequences of increasing clearance

If the vehicle's ground clearance is increased by no more than 5cm, then there should be no negative effects. But a further increase in clearance will be associated with unjustified difficulties. In addition to those points described above, add less stability of the car on the road (drift and large rolls) and greater wear of suspension components and assemblies. What does it mean ?

When the center of gravity rises and the car rolls and sways while driving, it increases

To prevent a rollover, it is important that the vehicle's suspension is adjusted correctly. An example would be a tall Mercedes A class when it capsized in front of journalists during the “moose test”

Then they delayed the release of the car and began to modify the chassis. It all ended with increasing the elasticity of the suspension and replacing the wheels with low-profile ones. You can combat vehicle roll by installing various additional stabilizers.

"Lifting" the machine

In principle, as we have already noted, this is enough for a more or less comfortable ride. But, of course, many people want to “raise” the VAZ 2110 a little more, based on their realities.

“Raised” VAZ 2110

We will tell you how you can actually do this. But let us warn you right away: “raising” the car above the asphalt level entails a number of unpleasant consequences:

1. Clamping the springs, firstly, will lead to a decrease in comfort while driving, and secondly, the shock absorbers will suffer as a result, which will not be able to cope with their responsibilities;
2. The suspension also suffers from too stiff springs, as this leads to increased loads on it;
3. Corrosion is inevitable when using aluminum spacers;
4. By increasing the ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, car owners risk the stability of the car while driving. The fact is that the center of gravity shifts, the car can rock, and in some cases it can even roll over. Therefore, experts strongly recommend not increasing the ground clearance by more than 5 cm. That is, the maximum limit should be no more than 170 mm!

Shock absorber modification

When transporting large loads (and often VAZ 2110 owners do not listen too much to recommendations regarding load capacity), the car seriously “sits down” and its ground clearance is significantly reduced.

If you have to constantly carry heavy things, it makes sense to install springs with class “A”. Naturally, they will make the shock absorbers stiff, and you will only be comfortable in a heavily loaded car, and without a load it will shake like on a cart.

There are also s, which are installed between the spring coils and do not allow the shock absorber to compress too much.

Interturn spacers in the shock absorber spring

In principle, such a car will no longer sag significantly under load, as well as nod off, but the shock absorber stroke will decrease and it will fail faster.

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If you think about what affects a car's ground clearance , it becomes clear that there are a number of ways:

1. screw suspension.
2. install spacers between the body and the strut support.
3. install non-standard strut supports, springs (longer) or shock absorbers.
4. install interturn spacers in the springs
5. install higher rubber bands under the springs
6. replace tires and wheels

If you install “house” spacers under the pillars, you will be able to raise the rear of the car.

As you might have noticed, there are many ways to make a car taller, but how is increasing ground clearance and car performance ?

Spacers as a means of increasing ground clearance

Shock absorbers and ground clearance, where is the truth?

When the car is standing still, the shock absorbers will not lift the body - after all, it hangs on springs. The role of the struts can be understood in motion, when the car sways and “pecks” on soft or dead shock absorbers. You drive off the curb and your car’s nose hits the asphalt! If the shock absorbers are in good condition, they will “catch” the car halfway. Thus, shock absorbers do not affect ground clearance, but have the same effect as increased ground clearance.

Budget options for increasing ground clearance

First option. The easiest option to increase ground clearance by a few millimeters is to replace the standard wheels and tires with tires and wheels of larger diameter. This is perhaps the simplest and most “gentle” method, since in this case you practically do not change the design of the car’s chassis. When increasing ground clearance in this way, it is necessary to take into account the permissible parameters recommended by the car manufacturer; you can find them in the operating manual or from the dealer, or on the manufacturer’s website.

Pros:

1. Increased ground clearance;
2. Slight increase in lumen;
3. Minimum costs.

1. Increased fuel consumption;
2. Violation of the accuracy of speedometer readings;
3. A dirty body due to larger diameter tires, wheels touching the arches when turning for the same reason.

The second relatively inexpensive option is to install special spacers between the springs and the car body. When choosing this method of increasing ground clearance, you need to understand that such modification of the chassis is already considered an intervention in the design of the chassis, that is, you are deliberately changing and violating the factory parameters of your car. How the suspension will behave after such tuning and how this will change the safety of your car is anyone’s guess.

If this does not scare you, you need to choose the appropriate spacer option, since there are several types of them. Spacers can be made of plastic, aluminum, or polyurethane. The main difference between each of these spacers is their service life. Thus, aluminum spacers are the most durable; they will last many times longer than their plastic or polyurethane counterparts. When purchasing, you need to specify where exactly you are going to install the spacers, as well as the type of suspension of your car. There are spacers that are installed between the spring of the shock absorber strut and the body cup, as well as so-called intercoil spacers, that is, those that are placed between the coils of the springs. Different materials are used to make such spacers. In addition to increasing ground clearance, these spacers allow you to stiffen the suspension, thereby avoiding some of the disadvantages that arise after installing conventional spacers. The fact is that interturn spacers reduce car roll when cornering.

Pros:

1. Increased ground clearance;
2. In case of heavy load, the rear of the machine does not sag.

1. Vibration and loads on the body and suspension;
2. The suspension angles change, as well as the car's handling;
3. The shock absorber stroke increases.

The third option to increase ground clearance is to replace the standard shock absorber springs with springs with a larger number of turns. This method is more expensive than the previous two, since it involves the purchase of reinforced springs with a large number of turns and shock absorbers for them.

Pros:

1. Long service life;
2. Uniform increase in ground clearance and no subsidence compared to the effect of spacers.

Adjusting headlights after installing spacers

To adjust the headlights, you need a flat area where you place your ten and walls (preferably light in color) at a distance of 4-6 meters from the nose of your car. The vehicle must be fully fueled, have approximately your weight in the front seat, and have all tools and a spare tire in the trunk.

Having prepared everything described above, we turn on the headlights in low beam mode and, using their sequential shading with a piece of cardboard, begin the adjustment. By rotating the screws that secure the headlights, we, in a way, “raise” the light spot to the optimal level. Having done this, set the vernier of the headlight range control to the minimum load position of the VAZ 2110. In general, we wrote in more detail about adjusting the headlights in this article “Adjusting the headlights of the VAZ 2110”.

Important points

1. 
   There is no need to completely unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the lower strut! Otherwise, there will be problems with removing the bolt and damaging the thread. You need to use a hammer - by carefully hitting the nut, the bolt can easily be knocked out.

   Read also:  How to train the key for a Lada Kalina with your own hands

1. There is no need to tighten the springs!

1. When using spacers for the rear springs, do not forget to check the quality of the springs - if they have shrunk from long-term use of your VAZ 2110 or are too soft, even though they are new, then replace them! Otherwise, the car’s control when cornering and at high speed will deteriorate sharply; it will begin to “scour” from side to side!

To summarize, we can say that using spacers on the rear pillars you will raise the body of the VAZ 2110, and its chassis will remain at the same height. The car's ground clearance parameters will also remain unchanged.

Spacers for rear pillars of VAZ 2110

Spacers for the rear pillars are recommended for use on uneven surfaces. They reduce the frequency of their impacts and snags on the car body. If the VAZ 2110 is used mainly when driving in a rut, then the spacers are virtually useless.

Communities › VAZ.EE › Blog › VAZ 2115- Front pillar spacer

All the best. After my post about lifting the car, I received a lot of questions, how? What? Where? etc. As a result, today I decided to tell you how it was done. The spacer is placed between the front strut support and the engine body. Depending on the make of the car, spacers have different shapes. In any case, the spacer on top follows the shape of the A-pillar support.

This photo shows SS20 spacers, 12 mm thick, which often come complete with supports. Such spacers can be made from different materials, but each material has its own disadvantages. Plastic ones are considered the safest for a car; it is assumed that they do not cause negative consequences. Polyurethane ones have a tendency to deform the body. Metal ones can speed up the corrosion process at the joints with the body, but this effect can be virtually neutralized by simply painting (and protecting with varnish) the spacers before installing them. If you have the appropriate tool or friends at the factory with a milling machine, then you can make such spacers yourself, of the thickness you need. I bought silumin spacers on the market:

To install the spacers we will need to remove the struts. There is no need to disassemble the strut, just remove it along with the hub. It seemed to me that this was the simplest option, which also did not affect the alignment. (You still need to do the wheel alignment, because it will eat more rubber, but getting to the service center is still safer). In order to do this, we need to unscrew 4 bolts and unscrew 4 nuts (not counting the removal of the wheel).

First of all, I would recommend looking at the ball mounting bolts; for most domestic cars, this is a 10mm bolt with a 17mm head. If so, then you are lucky and you should not experience problems with them. However, in recent years, our cars have begun to use foreign standards and you can see a smaller bolt head - an asterisk. A 10mm head fits perfectly on it, but most likely you won’t be able to unscrew it; you’ll tear off the corners. Therefore, you should think about purchasing a head for such bolts in advance. Also, you should take care of the steering rod puller in advance, especially if the car is not very new. My car is 3 years old and without a puller it was already difficult. The puller usually looks like a clamp, one of the pads of which has a cutout (looks like a two-pronged fork):

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Source

Maintenance and replacement of racks

The frequency of inspection and replacement of shock absorbers is determined by the maintenance instructions. However, the state of domestic roads and neglect of vehicle loading standards lead to accelerated wear of these elements.

Why the suspension rattles and the car is poorly controlled: signs of wear

• The car bounces on uneven surfaces, body vibrations are not damped.
• Severe washboard road vibration.
• On bumps, the movement of the suspension is transmitted to the steering wheel.
• The braking distance is increased with a working brake system.
• When entering a turn at a safe speed, the car drifts or skids (depending on whether the front or rear struts are out of order).
• Characteristic knocking noises in the suspension when the stabilizer struts are in good working order. The part may also rattle.
• Unstable behavior of the car on a straight road.

In addition, the condition of the shock absorbers can be checked visually.

• Faulty struts have oil stains.
• When you press your body weight on the fender of the car and then release it, the suspension should make 1-2 oscillations. If more, the shock absorber is faulty.

When pressed, the body should not sway. Both racks or one of them may be faulty

Shock absorber modification

When transporting large loads (and often VAZ 2110 owners do not listen too much to recommendations regarding load capacity), the car seriously “sits down” and its ground clearance is significantly reduced.

If you have to constantly carry heavy things, it makes sense to install springs with class “A”. Naturally, they will make the shock absorbers stiff, and you will only be comfortable in a heavily loaded car, and without a load it will shake like on a cart.

There are also s, which are installed between the spring coils and do not allow the shock absorber to compress too much.

In principle, such a car will no longer sag significantly under load, as well as nod off, but the shock absorber stroke will decrease and it will fail faster.

Safety

Whatever method of increasing the ground clearance on the VAZ 2110 you choose (if you need it, of course), remember that safety comes first. You want to get a car that will be more stable on the road, and not ready to roll over every minute even on a small obstacle?

Therefore, be sure to adjust the suspension to increase its elasticity. Swap out the regular tires on your car for low-profile tires. To ensure this, also install additional stabilizers.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Salon

Inside, the car looks just as boring and ascetic. There is a simple two-spoke steering wheel without an airbag, as well as a primitive instrument panel with a pair of arrow indicators.

On the sides of the visor there are large buttons, in which “hellish” backlashes appear over time. There were also gaps on the center console. By modern standards, it does not boast a range of options. But there is everything you need here - a clock, a stove and a shelf for a radio (it was not installed from the factory). A 12-volt cigarette lighter with backlight was provided at the bottom. The seats in the “ten” are fabric, with minimal lateral support. As reviews note, the seats in the “ten” are quite hard, but you can drive for short distances. The rear row of seats is designed for three people.

But in fact, only two fit here. It will be very crowded here for three people. Depending on the configuration, the machine could be equipped with:

• Air conditioning.
• Electric windows.
• Central lock.

Features of domestic transport

The headlights on the VAZ-2110 are adjusted with two screws: 1 - horizontally, 2 - vertically.

Owners of foreign-made cars can be considered happy people, since their vehicles are crammed with electronics and automation, which simplifies the use of the car. Almost all settings there are carried out automatically using the on-board computer.

This also applies to headlights. Their angle is adjusted depending on the load on the car, tire pressure or the quality of the road surface. Therefore, such cars can rarely blind oncoming traffic, and the driver can see all the obstacles on the road in the dark.

There are no such adjustments on the VAZ-2110, and therefore the headlight angle must be adjusted manually . Experts advise carrying out such adjustments on special stands that are available at service stations. But when this is not possible, you can make the correction yourself. To do this you will need to call a friend for help.

Ground clearance of VAZ 2110, increase in ground clearance of Lada 2110

The ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, or ground clearance, as for any other passenger car, is an important factor on our roads. It is the condition of the road surface or its complete absence that makes Russian motorists interested in the ground clearance of the Lada 2110 and the possibility of increasing the ground clearance using spacers. To begin with, it is worth honestly saying that the real ground clearance of the VAZ 2110 may differ significantly from that declared by the manufacturer. The whole secret is in the method of measuring and where to measure ground clearance. Therefore, you can find out the real state of affairs only by arming yourself with a tape measure or ruler. The official ground clearance of the VAZ 2110 is 160 mm when the car is loaded. In an empty car, you can easily measure 180 mm of clearance.

Some manufacturers use a trick and declare the amount of ground clearance in an “empty” car, but in real life we ​​have a trunk full of all kinds of things, passengers and a driver. That is, in a loaded car the ground clearance will be completely different. Avtovaz is honest in this regard. Another factor that few people take into account is the age of the car and the wear and tear of the springs—their “sagging” due to age. The issue can be solved by installing new springs or purchasing spacers for the sagging springs of the VAZ 2110. Spacers allow you to compensate for the sagging of the springs and will add a couple of centimeters of ground clearance. Sometimes even an inch of curb parking makes a difference.

But you shouldn’t get carried away with “lifting” the ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, because spacers to increase ground clearance are focused only on springs

If you do not pay attention to the shock absorbers, the travel of which is often very limited, then independently upgrading the suspension can lead to loss of controllability and damage to the shock absorbers. From the point of view of cross-country ability, high ground clearance in our harsh conditions is good, however, at high speeds on the highway and in corners, serious sway and additional body roll appear

At the rear of the “ten”, so-called “houses” are traditionally used to increase ground clearance. Which simply lift the entire rack assembly. This method is suitable for almost all front-wheel drive Ladas. For an example, we suggest watching the video.

Any car manufacturer, when designing the suspension and choosing the ground clearance, looks for a middle ground between handling and cross-country ability. Perhaps the simplest, safest and most unpretentious way to increase clearance is to install wheels with “high” tires. Changing wheels makes it easy to increase the ground clearance by another centimeter. Do not forget that a serious change in ground clearance can lead to damage to the CV joints of the Lada 2110. After all, the “grenades” will have to work at a slightly different angle. But this only applies to the front axle.

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Suspension adjustment after installation

This completes the installation of spacers on your VAZ 2110. Having returned the car to its normal position, you need to make a number of important adjustments. We are talking primarily about the pressure regulator for the rear brakes, headlights and front wheels.

In the case of the latter, we are interested in their longitudinal inclination angle, otherwise called castor. After installing the spacer on the rear pillars, the rear of your VAZ 2110 will naturally rise, and the castor, on the contrary, will decrease. This will negatively affect the vehicle's stability in motion and its overall handling. Obviously, these parameters are critical for your safety, so it is better to entrust castor adjustment to certified auto mechanics from a car service center.

The first two settings of the VAZ 2110 can be done independently.

Having picked up a speed of about 35 km/h in the car, we sharply brake. At this time, the assistant should observe how soon the rear wheels will lock. Normally, it lags somewhat behind the locking of the front wheel pair. If this does not happen, then return to point 16 of the plan discussed above and change the size of the gap upward.

Parameters of Priora bodies

In any Priora body, the characteristics of its wheels and wheelbases will be the same, and therefore it makes no sense to indicate them separately everywhere. These are the parameters:

Meaning

These dimensions are valid for all bodies except the coupe. Hatchback parameters:

1. The distance from the rear to the front point of the car is 4210 mm.
2. The front overhang of the car is 770 mm.
3. The rear overhang of the car is 660 mm.

Station wagon and sedan parameters:

1. The distance from the rear to the front point of the machine is 4350 mm.
2. The front overhang of the car is 740 mm.
3. The rear overhang of the car is 830 mm.

1. The distance from the rear to the front suspension of the car is 440 mm.
2. The wheelbase of the car is 2492 mm.

Overhangs for cars of sportier variants are not specified by the manufacturer. Considering that the Priora's ground clearance is 165 mm, we can choose the best body type that allows us to use ground clearance more successfully than others. Having analyzed all the available characteristics, we will definitely come to the conclusion that the hatchback option is much better than all the others.

Dimensions of Lada Priora

The fairly large wheelbase of the body, despite its small length, allows us to call the car a cross-country vehicle.

However, it is necessary to remind Priora owners that, even if you own a hatchback, you need to be very careful when parking next to high curbs. This warning is especially relevant when your machine is fully loaded

But if the Priora hatchback can, with a stretch, be called the conqueror of forest roads and mountain peaks, then the coupe body cannot receive such a title. Such a car has too long a distance between the front and rear wheels and a very large front overhang. Whatever one may say, it will be difficult to drive along rural country roads. This car design is only good for asphalt surfaces.

However, even they will need to be driven very carefully where there are large potholes and there is a need to overcome artificial unevenness. But since there are no unnecessary or protruding parts from under the transmission on the Priora, you can confidently count on the quality of the available ground clearance.

Despite the absence of parts sticking out from under the bottom of the Priora, you can greatly reduce the ground clearance if you put a lot of people in the car and load the trunk with things. Reducing its length by only 20 mm will be enough for the bottom to touch the surface of the speed bump. It is necessary to force such obstacles with special care in order to eliminate the possibility of breakdowns in time.

Universal intercoil spring spacer for rear and front suspension (2 pcs.) auto buffer

Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending a set of round, interturn spacers 2101-2912600U (universal) for the rear and front suspension (autobuffers), in the “Comment” line indicate the model of your car, year of manufacture, for which spring (standard, with variable step, barrel-shaped).

Spring spacers (Autobuffers) are shock-absorbing pads (shock-absorbing inserts) installed in the spring to improve the performance of the car. In a nutshell, changes in the driving performance of a car after installing autobuffers can be described as the effect of air suspension. The high sides of the grooves firmly hold the autobuffer in the spring and do not allow it to jump out.

Spring spacers 2101-2912600U are interturn, universal for rear and front suspension, have the simplest design and are very easy to install. They can be used on rear and front suspension springs. The use of interturn spacers makes it possible not to change the vehicle's ground clearance, while increasing the stiffness of the springs. As a result, the springs can carry a greater load without sagging to unacceptable limits.

The design of spacers 2101-2912600U for rear and front suspensions can be quickly installed without the use of special tools. To install the interturn spacer, it is enough to jack up the wheel and spread the spring as far as possible. The part can be mounted using a regular screwdriver. To make the spacer easier to insert, it must first be moistened in soapy water.

Do not use oil during installation, because spring spacers 2101-2912600U interturn, universal rear and front suspension (autobuffer) will slide along the turns.

Before installation you will need: rags and water to clean the spring, as well as liquid soap or silicone grease to facilitate installation of the autobuffer if it is tight in the spring.

Problems that most motorists face:

— rolls, nods, longitudinal and transverse rocking;

— insufficient ground clearance (the bumper touches, the bottom widens, the wheels rub against the arches);

— instability of the car at speed (swaying, throwing the rear);

— bumps and knocks when driving over uneven surfaces (potholes, asphalt joints, rails, speed bumps, dirt roads, country roads, country roads);

— car sagging (many passengers or heavy load);

— structural rigidity of the car;

— structural softness of the car;

— low car comfort (“stool”, “tin can”, motion sickness);

— rigidity when driving on low-profile tires or reinforced springs;

— damage to the car’s suspension from driving on bad roads (springs, struts, shock absorbers, stabilizer struts);

— poor performance of the short-travel suspension.

Spring spacers 2101-2912600U interturn, universal rear and front suspension (atobuffers) dampen sharp shocks of the suspension, breakdowns occur much less frequently. Driving on broken roads is quieter, vibrations are reduced, and road unevenness is smoothed out. When braking sharply, the car “bites” the front less.

Spring spacers 2101-2912600U interturn, universal rear and front suspension (autobuffers):

— protect the suspension from breakdowns: the service life of shock absorbers and other suspension elements is significantly increased;

— an increase in ground clearance up to 2 centimeters without changing the suspension geometry and without threatening the springs and shock absorbers;

— the car’s handling is improved both on a flat road and on sharp turns: the roll and sway of the car are reduced, and the roll is reduced. The car's behavior becomes more collected and stable.

— the problem of car sagging under high load (many passengers or heavy load) is solved;

- reduce fatigue during long trips.

Other article numbers of the product and its analogues in the catalogs: 21010291260000U, 2101-2912600U.

VAZ 1111 / Oka, VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2103, VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099, VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 1117, VAZ 1118, VAZ 1119, VAZ 2170, VAZ 2190, VAZ 2192, VAZ 2194, Datsun / Datsun on-Do and mi-Do, VAZ 2121, VAZ 21213, VAZ 21214, VAZ 2123 , VAZ 2131, Lada Urban.

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How to independently replace the front suspension spring on a front-wheel drive VAZ car.

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