Hot air blows from the VAZ 2110 stove

Driving a VAZ-2110 in twenty-degree frost often turns into torture. This is a characteristic feature of the tenth family - ill-conceived design of the cabin heater . The stove may not heat the air to normal temperature, or may not work at all. And often it needs serious modifications, requiring a significant investment of time and effort. We will figure out what to do in these cases together.

Briefly about the design features of the stove on the VAZ-2110

Until the owner of a VAZ-2110 encounters a cold interior in winter, he may not realize that the stove of the entire tenth family has an important design feature - it is made in the form of two separate systems , in each of which a breakdown may occur or a design defect may appear. or a factory defect.

Heater design diagram.

Firstly, the tens heater consists of an air heating unit . Everyone is familiar with this unit: heater radiator, air ducts with a regulation unit, cabin filter.
Secondly, the car is equipped with an electronic temperature control system . Each of these elements can pose a potential threat to the microclimate in the cabin. Another element of the system is the heater control unit controller. We will check each of the elements, modify them if necessary, and bring the temperature in the cabin back to normal.

Why is it impossible to change the heating temperature?

You can often observe a situation in the 2110 cabin when the stove does not react in any way to the position of the temperature regulator, while the air temperature can be constantly low or constantly high. This is a sure sign that one of the electronic components has died. Let's check it all like this:

Interior temperature sensor

Temperature sensor location.

Often the heater dampers get stuck.

The cause of heater failure may be the damper drive.

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

One of the main problems of the VAZ-2110 heater is leakage and poor-quality assembly, low quality of air duct elements.

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts ; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

Modernization of the heater for the driver’s feet, we will write a separate article about this. The photo shows our editorial car.

To eliminate this drawback, unfortunately, you will have to spend more than one hour, since it is impossible to get to the air ducts without dismantling the front panel.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

Video about the modification of the heater damper of the VAZ-2110

Blowing cold air - inspection of the heater radiator and cooling system

The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove also does not have high heat transfer, and besides, it is quite difficult to get to it. However, it may be associated with a weak interior heating temperature:

The heater radiator is clogged . If antifreeze does not get into it when the cooling system is in full working order, then it will not heat. Diagnosing a clogged stove is difficult, but it is possible. With the engine fully warmed up and the heater on, we feel the temperature of the radiator inlet and outlet pipes by touch. If the inlet is hot and the outlet is cold, the heater radiator is clogged. Few people clean it; the public prefers to buy a new one. The market will allow you to choose several models of aluminum radiators and one or two copper ones at our discretion.

The water seal is the main protection against sewer odors

A water seal, also known as a hydraulic seal or siphon, is an essential element of sewer networks. Its direct purpose is to protect premises from gases accumulating in the sewer system.

The principle of operation of the water seal is based on retaining a certain amount of water, which prevents the penetration of sewer odors.

Most often, water is held in a curved piece of tubing. This is the simplest and most reliable design. If the pipe is smooth, it does not collect hair and holds a sufficiently large volume of water.

Another thing is the bottle-type design (knee). It is with this that most often problems arise with the passage of sewer odor. When the glass gets dirty, the water quickly evaporates. And siphons for showers and bathtubs are too low and hold a small amount of liquid.

Design features of the VAZ-2110 heating system

The main design elements of the heating system in the VAZ-2110 car are:

a stove or heater in which hot air entering the car interior is prepared;
air ducts - pipes through which air flow heated to the required temperature enters the cabin;
hot air distributor or control unit;
evaporator responsible for removing condensate. This component is available only on the VAZ-2110 car and is the main design feature of its heating system.

In addition, the system uses an automatic heater control system, represented by an electronic controller and sensors that measure the temperature and send appropriate commands to the automatic control system.

If the stove starts blowing slightly warm air instead of hot air, it is necessary to look for the cause of the problem in a malfunction of any of the above components.

Causes of poor foot airflow

Heater malfunction

Air through the cabin filter is taken from the street by the rotating blades of the electric heater motor. Through a damper system, air is distributed through air ducts and supplied into the cabin through deflectors and non-adjustable grilles.

Air, like any gaseous medium, tends to follow the path of least resistance. Therefore, it is logical that the air flows first come out of the central and side deflectors. The feet of the driver and passengers are blown last. Structurally, the air ducts to the central deflector and the upper side airflow points have a larger cross-section, and it is much easier for air to pass through them.

Initially, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the intake of air from the atmosphere. After all, if the air is supplied in insufficient volume, then it will not be enough to supply all airflow points with the intensity that was calculated at the design stage of the car.

Check the condition of the cabin filter. To do this, remove the wipers and frill. The cabin filter is located on the right side of the vehicle under the windshield. It is covered with a plastic casing, which is secured with four self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the cabin filter. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature and check the operation of the stove. If the situation has improved, change the cabin filter and close the issue.

The second common cause is a clogged heater core. In this case, the heating of the interior will be weak, because warm air does not come out of all the deflectors well, and not just into the legs. But the fact is that when driving for a long time, your feet begin to freeze first, so it seems that the problem is in this part of the airflow.

Video: Why the stove does not blow at the feet of VAZ 2111,2110

This malfunction is easily diagnosed. We find two pipes for supplying antifreeze to the heater radiator (rubber hoses on the left side in the direction of travel of the car). With the engine warm, carefully touch the two pipes one at a time with the heater running at full power. The difference in temperature between the pipes should be minimal. If one pipe is hot and the second is cold or barely warm, we wash or replace the heater radiator.

Checking the operation of the dampers

There are nine exit points for air flows from the heater on the VAZ-2110:

central deflector;
two side deflectors and two windshield air vents;
heated feet of the driver and front passenger;
two outputs for heating the feet of rear passengers.

In an ideally operating system, the pressure generated by the heater motor is sufficient to create an effective flow to warm the feet. However, over time, gaps form in the joints of the air ducts, and the dampers of the VAZ-2110 heater begin to fit loosely to the body. This leads to atomization of the air flow. As a result, a minimum amount of air reaches the distant exit points.

First, dismantle the panel with the central deflector. It is held in place by four plastic clips. To remove it, simply pry it off one of the sides with a suitable object, such as a flat-head screwdriver. Be careful: the clips are fragile.

Evaluate the damper's performance

In older cars with a manual damper drive, pay attention to the play in the linkage of the rods. A broken rod system will not allow the damper to fit tightly to the body in the extreme position, which will cause air to leak from the cold circuit

The problem is corrected by adjusting the damper. In a mechanical drive, it is possible to shorten the rod due to a movable lock on a gear rod or a threaded tip. During the adjustment process, check that the position of the switch on the panel corresponds to the actual position of the damper.

Another reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not blow into your feet is a malfunction in the operation of the automatic heater control system (AHC) unit or the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. In this case, there is usually insufficiently warm or even cold air from the stove operating in maximum heating mode. This is due to the incorrect position of the damper in which the gearmotor sets it.

Evaluate the operation of the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. To do this, visually check how it closes the damper when switching modes. The easiest way to do this is to remove the panel with the central deflector. Move the temperature knob to the extreme position (for example, set the minimum temperature), then sharply switch to the opposite mode. The damper should completely block the channel visible from the driver's position. If this does not happen, the problem lies in the gear motor or the automatic control system unit. Check the serviceability of the gearmotor and unit.

Why are there problems with temperature regulation?

If you set a temperature that is comfortable for you, but the stove blows barely warm air, the cause may be adjustment problems that arise in the following situations:

The temperature sensor installed near the ceiling light does not work. This device cannot be repaired, so it will need to be replaced;
failure or “freezing” of the damper. This part is located under the hood and can break due to oxidation of the fasteners. It is best to replace the plastic damper with an aluminum product, which will last much longer and will not create any problems.

As you can see, to solve the problem with temperature regulation, it is enough to replace one of the worn or failed parts. You can do this yourself, without involving a specialist.

Ventilation device malfunction

If the fan does not work, you will need:

replace the fuse;
check the contacts in the block;
replace the ignition relay.

To understand that the ventilation device is not working, you will need to turn on the stove at 1-2-3 speeds. If there is no noise, repair work is carried out. If the fan turns on at speed 3, then replace the resistor. To test the position switch, use a 12 W light bulb and 2 wires soldered to it. The torpedo console is first dismantled. To gain access to the stove switch you will need:

A lit light indicates that the switch is working properly. Otherwise, connect the lamp to the positive position switch. If it does not light, then there is an open circuit or the fuse has blown out.

If the fuse is blown, you need to find the source of the short circuit. Then the fuse is replaced. If the heating device only warms up the air, then replace the ignition relay. This part is located under the dashboard in the center console.

The stove fan is replaced in the following cases:

there is voltage to the switches, but the ventilation device does not turn on;
poor contact of the device mass located under the stove fixing nut;
Motor brushes are stuck.

Repair of the micromotor that controls the damper

The damper is controlled electrically. Therefore, if the cause of the problem with the heater does not lie in the part itself, it is necessary to diagnose and repair the micromotor. To do this, the following actions are carried out:

remove the insulation to get to the motor;
turn on the hot air supply and watch the drive lever. If it moves, then the engine is working;
otherwise, replace the micromotor. This procedure does not take much time and does not require any special experience, so you can easily handle it yourself.

Many drivers ignore the need to install a new motor and open and close the damper manually. We do not recommend doing this, since in this case the heating system will wear out and quickly fail.

Remedies

So, an air lock has been found in the sewer system, what to do next? There may be several options to solve the problem:

replacement of a defective section of pipe;
removal of unnecessary fittings, installation of a straight pipeline with a given slope;
repair or installation of a drain pipe;
repairing or sealing weak connections.

If a defective area is discovered, it is necessary to determine how to replace it. Sometimes you have to dismantle and reassemble the sun lounger. More often, the problem area is cut out, a repair coupling and a new section of pipe are installed. Usually, this is enough to remove the air dome.

If there are too many fittings on the line, you need to identify the problem area and remove it, replacing the part with a straight section. The configuration of the site should be simplified as much as possible, unnecessary bends or differences in diameter should be removed. Often, unnecessary components are installed only because there is no desire to adjust the length or height of the pipes. They begin to combine them with corners, bends and other additions. The result is an airy dome that prevents the passage of waste.

The fan pipe provides ventilation to the internal cavity of the pipes. It also promotes the release of an air bubble under the pressure of the waste liquid. If the drain pipe is missing or clogged with dirt, dust or foreign objects, the air will have nowhere to escape from the pipe. Restoring the system ventilation helps remove the problem.

Pipe connections often become places where air enters the system. Once in the right conditions, the air forms a plug and begins to delay the passage of wastewater. It is necessary to carefully seal pipe joints, periodically inspect them and eliminate cracks or holes in a timely manner. This is not a complicated procedure, but it is often a reliable way to avoid air locks.

All these methods are good only under certain conditions. Before removing an air lock in a sewer pipe, you need to accurately determine its location. An analysis of the pipe configuration and the conditions for the flow of wastewater will help you choose the right way to solve the problem.

How to fix a leak in a heater core

Another problem due to which the stove “drives” not hot, but warm air into the cabin is a leaking radiator. To identify it, you will need to disassemble almost the entire system, remove the heater and the radiator itself to make sure there is no damage. If they are found, you must:

solder the radiator in places of damage. This procedure makes it possible to save money and avoid purchasing a new part, however, we recommend using it only in extreme cases and in case of minor damage. Otherwise, in just a few weeks you will again be faced with the need for repairs;
radiator replacement.

Let's sum it up

Air entering the vehicle heater can negatively affect not only the functionality of the heater and comfort in the cabin, but also affect the operation of more significant units and parts in the car. Timely detection and elimination of the problem will help you save on the purchase of expensive heater components and repairs to the car’s power unit.

Be very attentive to even seemingly frivolous problems in the operation of your vehicle. Simple preventive measures to care for the interior heating elements will have a positive impact on the functionality of the vehicle as a whole.

Source

What to do if the automatic control unit is broken

If the stove blows barely warm air due to a failure of the automatic heater control system, a rather complex repair will be required. It is best to carry it out in a specialized workshop that has equipment for diagnosing and performing delicate work with electronics.

If for some reason you do not want or do not have the opportunity to contact a car service, you will have to replace the control unit with a new one. This is not difficult, but we would like to warn you that this element is quite expensive.

Installation of supply channels

Supply channels are holes that are made from the street side to create additional air flow directed into the room. The flow direction is controlled by two valves. But it is better if the valves are installed in advance in plastic windows to improve tightness and the possibility of normal air circulation.

Ventilation valve in window frame

Principle of operation

Each valve has a grille inside to protect against excess debris entering the room. And for sound insulation, a special box is installed on the outside of the hole.

You should choose only high-quality valves. Cheap models cannot function normally at large temperature ranges or air will pass through even when closed.

Installing a new heater

Sometimes the reason for the heater not working correctly is its failure. Even the most reliable stove is not able to withstand intense loads for several years in a row and simply wears out. Many domestic car enthusiasts install heaters from the VAZ-2112 on their VAZ-2110 car, which are reliable in operation and can be equipped with an air filter that increases the efficiency of the entire system.

Situations when the stove does not work on a VAZ 2110 are quite common. That’s why many people have to solve this problem. Some do this with the help of car service specialists, others do it with their own hands. Today we will talk about the first option.

Heater

How to use the stove

It is no secret that its service life and reliability of operation largely depend on how an item is handled. This is perfect for a car heater. The more correctly you operate it, the better and longer the stove will be able to work.

There are a few simple rules that, if followed, will extend the life of this unit.

During cold weather, control the stove in two modes. First, start the car, set the control to “All on glass”, and while driving, switch to directing the heat to your feet.
Do not block the air supply nozzles.
Carpeted interior floors will require you to aim the nozzles higher.
Try to always keep the glass clean.
Use air conditioning in damp weather.

Typical breakdowns

It happens that the stove on a VAZ 2110 does not heat well, does not allow you to fully control it, and so on. Let's look at the most typical breakdowns for this unit.

The ability to control is lost, that is, the temperature of the stove on the VAZ 2110 is not regulated;
The ceiling sensor refuses to work;
The device does not work for heating, the stove blows cold air into your VAZ 2110;
The flow of hot air to the feet or to the side windows is poor;
The coolant level drops;
The heater fan on the VAZ 2110 does not work properly;
The stove turns on and heats up, but this is accompanied by a lot of noise.

Additional work

The reasons for poor heater performance may be related to a leak in the radiator. To check it, you will need to remove the stove. If the radiator leaks, then it is replaced with a new analogue. If there are air pockets in the radiator, then cold air blows. In this case, the car should be positioned so that the front wheels are higher than the rear tires. Then open the tap and press the gas pedal. The motor should run for 5 minutes. Then we return everything to its original position.

If the stove does not heat, it is recommended to check the faucet for serviceability. This element is located under the hood. You can eliminate a leaking faucet by replacing it with a new analogue. Experts do not recommend removing the tap from the 2110 heating system. Otherwise, the driver will not be able to control the temperature of the antifreeze. If the stove does not blow well, insulation work will need to be done. We seal the cracks in the panel with anti-squeak. If the valves are jammed, the stove may not work. If the VAZ-2110 is equipped with valves (in the heater hoses), it is necessary to check their operation.

Problem solving

Now let's talk about how to solve emerging issues, troubleshoot problems and return the heater to normal operation.

Each breakdown requires separate consideration.

Broken motor

Temperature not regulated

If the temperature of the air flows cannot be adjusted, the problem is hidden in the control unit or damper, or the temperature sensor on the ceiling inside the cabin does not work.

Be sure to check that the damper is not stuck. It can be accessed through the engine compartment. If replacement is necessary, replace the standard plastic damper with an aluminum product. It is more durable.

Blowing cold

If the heater on your VAZ 2110 starts blowing cold air, you need to look for the reasons. The cause of the failure lies in the gear motor. A similar situation occurs in 9 out of 10 cases, so it is unlikely that you will have to look for alternative culprits.

Repair work

Repair of the VAZ-2110 stove is required in the following cases:

The heater temperature cannot be adjusted.
Cold air comes in, and something clicks under the hood.
The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove is leaking.
Sensor malfunction.
The control unit has failed.

If the heater temperature is not regulated, then you will need to check the functionality of the control unit and heater damper of the VAZ-2110. In the latter case, check the fasteners for oxidation. The heater damper is being repaired from under the hood. Auto mechanics first recommend removing the deflectors by bending the antennae. The flap is then moved by hand.

If it works, then the reason why the VAZ 2110 stove does not heat well is something else. In any case, the factory heater damper is replaced with an aluminum analogue. This modification will allow you to retain heat and the heating system will work better. This is explained by the fact that the plastic damper is easily deformed.

The stove does not heat up even if the damper gear motor malfunctions. To check it, you will need to dismantle the frill and insulation. If the gears slip, then the gearmotor is replaced. To do this you will need a set of screwdrivers. If necessary, check the degree of tension of the throttle control cable located near the gas pedal. If the cable tension is weak, then cold or warm air blows.

To check the temperature sensor, you will need to rotate the temperature control lever 2-5 times. If in the latter case hot air enters, the sensor does not work. The design is replaced with a working analogue. If necessary, replace the DHW temperature regulator.