Replacing the pump on a VAZ 2115 - how to change the pump on a VAZ

This article with video instructions tells how to replace the pump on a VAZ-2115 car with your own hands.

A water pump is a mechanism for circulating fluid in a car's cooling system. Failure of the pump (pump) to work can lead to a change in the temperature regime inside the motor and lead to more serious damage. To avoid this, it is recommended to carry out regular preventative checks and visual inspection of the engine in order to identify faults and timely replace the pump.

Water pump design

The design of the water pump in passenger cars is essentially the same, this especially applies to Russian car models. So there is no need to look for the location of the pump, knowing that it operates from the timing belt and is located next to the radiator.

Technically, the pump looks like this: a shaft with an impeller mounted on it is fixed in the cover, the rotation of which leads to the movement (circulation) of liquid in the engine cooling system. On the opposite side of the shaft there is a drive pulley. By means of a timing belt drive and a drive wheel (pulley), energy from engine rotation is supplied to the shaft. In turn, the shaft drives the impeller.

A seal (oil seal) is mounted in the space between the impeller and the housing, damage to which leads to problems with the water pump. Leakage of liquids (antifreeze, antifreeze) through a poor-quality (damaged) oil seal to the bearings causes the lubricant to be washed out, resulting in faster wear, leading to pump jamming, and subsequently to rupture of the timing belt and bending of the valves.

As a result, the entire engine cooling structure stops functioning, overheats and fails. This entails significant financial costs and labor-intensive, expensive work than a conventional water pump replacement.

Tools for replacing the pump on a VAZ:

  • car keys for 10, 17 and 19;
  • head number 10;
  • flat screwdriver.

Need to know

You can add a heater to the car’s heating system yourself; to do this, you need to buy an additional heating element. Or you can try and make it yourself; for these purposes you will need a second radiator and a housing for a new heating element, which can also be made at home.

Where to put

  1. In the distance between the front seats where the tunnel is located.
  2. Under the front seat.

Suitable Models

  • Technomaster-8110.0500.10 and 8110.0700.10 (Tolyatti). Its price varies within 3000 rubles.
  • Helios, Xeros and Zenith (Eberspächer) - are more expensive, from 3500 rubles.

Detailed instructions for replacing the pump on a VAZ-2115

Replacing a water pump is a fairly simple operation, provided you follow the instructions properly and have the tools prepared in advance.

  1. The car is driven into a viewing hole. Before starting repairs, the engine is given one to two hours to cool down. The protection is removed from the crankcase, using keys 17-19, the protective casing is removed.
  2. The hood rises.
  3. Coolant (antifreeze, antifreeze) drains through the open valve located on the left side of the radiator.
  4. Unscrew the bolt on the cylinder block. Through the resulting hole we drain the coolant from the engine. It will be a little easier if you loosen the clamp on the radiator pipe and drain everything into a basin, and then add a new one, thereby completely replacing the fluid.
  5. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three bolts that secure the outer casing of the timing belt. Using a 17 key, we tear off the bolt of the toothed pulley (the main thing here is not to lose the key, having set the marks in advance).
  6. Using the same wrench (17), unscrew the belt tensioner roller nut.
  7. Remove the belt tensioner.
  8. We move the belt on top of the standing toothed pulley and pump, moving it towards the radiator.
  9. We unscrew the bolt holding the toothed pulley and remove it (again paying attention to the safety of the key, it is better to remove it and put it aside). Using a small ratchet and a 10mm socket, unscrew the required number of bolts and nut holding the rear belt cover.
  10. We remove the protection.
  11. Use a flat screwdriver to carefully lift the pump and remove it.
  12. In the cylinder block we remove possible remnants of the old oil seal.
  13. We clean the future installation site of the new water pump. It is very important to thoroughly clean the area in the cylinder block, because if this is neglected, the pump will be installed unevenly (crooked) at the end of the work, which will lead to new leaks in the future. That is, all the work will go down the drain.
  14. We lubricate the new seal on both sides with a special automotive sealant and return it to the pump seat.
  15. We install the new pump in place so that the marking on it is on top.
  16. We install the parts obtained during disassembly in the reverse order.

Results of the work carried out

After the work is completed and the time allotted for the sealant to harden, we start the car (VAZ-2115) and conduct a test drive a short distance, preferably on an uneven section of the road. If you don’t smell antifreeze in the car’s interior, and there are no extraneous noises or knocking coming from the engine, then the work to replace the cooling system pump has been carried out efficiently.

Thus, you have gained experience in replacing the water pump of your own car 2115 and saved about one thousand rubles, which would have been required when replacing it at a service station.

Installing a new pump

Before proceeding with installation, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of sealant to the gasket. The holes in the block and the flanges match only in one position. It is enough to combine them, and then tighten the bolts. The final tightening of the bolts should be carried out after approximately 20 minutes to allow the sealant to harden slightly.

In this case, you will ensure maximum tightness of the assembled unit. Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Try to install all the fasteners, nothing should remain. At this point, the replacement of the VAZ-2115 pump is completed, the cooling system will function normally.

How to install a pump on a VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 are considered a kind of “star” of AVTOVAZ in the early 2000s. These models are truly distinguished by their unpretentiousness and durability. Every owner who closely monitors his four-wheeled friend understands how important it is to provide timely care for the mechanisms. To maintain engine operation in normal mode, it is enough to change the oil on time and monitor the cooling system. However, if changing the oil usually does not present any difficulties for drivers, working with the cooling system and, in particular, with the pump can cause some difficulties.

What does it give

An additional VAZ 2114 pump provides warmth and comfort in your favorite car. You can save a lot on warming up your car if you like comfort. In practice, the car will noticeably heat up within 5 minutes after turning on the heating system, which cannot be achieved using a standard heating system.

Speaking of pros and cons: firstly, the domestic pump has only a plus, and the minus is the unit housing itself, and secondly, it is better not to leave a plus on the battery, despite the fuse, it is better to look for another point to connect it.

Why do you need a pump in a car?

Speaking about engine operation, one cannot help but appreciate the functionality of the cooling system. After all, it is thanks to its high-quality work that it becomes possible to operate the engine in any weather and in any mode.

The engine is a very complex component of any car. Constant friction of the pistons leads to the fact that the engine parts quickly heat up, this can lead to their “jamming”. There is only one way to prevent engine overheating - by constantly maintaining the standard temperature. It is for this purpose that the cooling system was created in the machine.

Coolant is poured into the expansion tank (on VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 cars, both antifreeze and antifreeze can be used with the same success). From the tank, the liquid flows through tubes into the water pump (its second name is a pump), and from there into the radiator and to the cylinder block. It is the circulation of liquids that ensures high-quality and timely cooling of the engine.

The standard product in a metal case is equipped with an impeller to create antifreeze pressure in the system

The water pump is set in motion after the power unit is started. On VAZ 2114, 2115 it is located in the timing system, that is, the pump impeller is driven by the timing belt. The impeller rotates the blades, due to which the antifreeze begins to circulate throughout the system. If there were no pump, then there would be no point in the entire cooling system.

The pump serves one single purpose - to create the necessary pressure in the system for uninterrupted circulation of antifreeze.

Troubleshooting

Since the water pump on the VAZ 2114/15 is completely covered by a plastic casing of the gas distribution mechanism, it is impossible to visually determine malfunctions. The main signs of problems with the water pump are as follows.

  1. While the engine is running, extraneous sounds (humming or grinding) can be heard from the timing belt, which can be produced by a faulty pump bearing. However, a similar hum may appear if the timing belt is tightened after replacement, as well as if the tension roller is heavily worn.
  2. Traces of antifreeze were found on the timing case, under the car after parking, or on the underbody.
  3. A sharp increase in engine temperature while driving is a consequence of the loss of most of the coolant. This can happen due to a breakdown of the radiator or the final failure of the pump.

As a result of bearing jamming, the gear and pump shaft become distorted, which can cause the timing belt to break.

If the water pump seal leaks antifreeze, traces of it are visible on the cylinder block

To make a more accurate diagnosis, you should do the following.

    Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three fastening bolts and remove the protective plastic casing.

The three mounting bolts are unscrewed and the protective casing is removed.

Almost always, diagnosing the water pump is done when replacing the timing belt. According to the technical documentation for VAZ 2114/15 cars on 8V engines, the belt should be changed every 60 thousand km, on 16V engines - every 45 thousand km.

Replacing the pump on a VAZ 2114 (8 valves)

Replacing the water pump is a rare procedure that any car will need sooner or later. The design of the pump is a very simple device, which is why it breaks down infrequently. However, over time or due to aggressive driving style, any unit can fail.

How to check the pump

On VAZ 2114,2115 it is very easy to identify a faulty water pump. You do not need to have any special knowledge, since there are only three signs that you need to pay attention to.

Engine overheating

If even in the winter, when driving short distances, the fan cannot cope with cooling, then this sign may indicate that not everything is in order with the pump. If the gauge needle at the engine temperature is constantly above the operating mark of 90 degrees, then it’s time to carry out checking work:

  1. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.
  2. Turn on the stove.
  3. If cold air immediately begins to flow from the stove, then the circulation in the cooling system does not work normally.
  4. It is necessary to replace the pump, as the malfunction is associated with damage to the impeller.


The appearance of fumes and heat from under the hood is a clear sign of severe engine overheating

Timing belt wears unevenly

When examining the hydraulic distribution mechanism of a VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, you may notice uneven wear on the belt. Indeed, due to the fact that the pump is directly driven by the timing belt, it wears unevenly (for example, only on one side) - this symptom also indicates a breakdown of the water pump.

You will need to remove the belt to verify the reality of your guesses. Due to wear of the pump bearings, it can become loose and therefore quickly break. While the pump itself can still perform its function normally for some time.


Ideally, the timing belt should wear evenly on both sides

Pump leaking

If the water pump sits on the car for a very long time, then sooner or later the oil seal will wear out so much that it will begin to leak. An antifreeze leak in the timing belt under the pump is one of the signs of a pump malfunction. When a few drops are released per day, the situation cannot be considered critical: the pump generally copes with its job, providing high-quality cooling of the engine. However, if a large amount of antifreeze leaks from under the pump, you need to change the pump urgently.


Abundant leakage indicates a loss of sealing of the pump and its failure.

In some cases, leaks can occur both due to wear of the oil seal, and due to improper installation of the gasket when replacing the pump.

Preparing the tools

Regardless of what specific problem arose on your car, the only solution to fix it is to replace the pump. This work on a VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 can be done independently, since the convenient design of the machine makes it possible to carry out all stages of work without special skills.

First you will need to prepare a simple tool:

  • wrenches 10, 17 and 19;
  • socket head 10;
  • flat screwdriver with a thin blade.

Without this tubular socket wrench it will be impossible to unscrew the hard-to-reach bolts on the pump mount

How to change the pump

The procedure for working on a VAZ 2114, 2115 with an 8-valve engine is determined as follows:

  1. Remove the protective cover from the timing belt.
  2. Slightly loosen the tensioner roller.
  3. Slightly reduce the tension on the alternator belt, and then remove the alternator belt and timing belt.
  4. Disconnect all hoses from the pump (antifreeze may leak out, so it is recommended to place a container under the pump in advance or cover the area with a rag).
  5. Drain the antifreeze from the system (just unscrew the cap from the radiator so that the liquid flows out in 10 minutes).
  6. Disconnect the pump protective cover and pull out the pump.
  7. After dismantling, be sure to clean the flange surfaces from smudges and dirt, and also remove the remnants of the old rubber gasket.
  8. Next, you will need to perform all work on installing the new pump in reverse order.

It is necessary to change the rubber gasket even if it shows no signs of wear or damage. To ensure reliable sealing, it is recommended to coat both the pump mounting location and its junction with the cylinder block with a heat-resistant sealant.


It is recommended to ensure that the new and old pumps are completely identical.

Signs of pump failure

You can talk about a pump malfunction if you have the following malfunctions:

  1. The coolant level in the reservoir drops to a minimum. This reason is the most common, since this is how you can understand that the coolant is constantly leaving due to leaks. They can be in the tank itself, the pipes, or at their connections, as well as directly in the radiator. Only by checking the entire system can you be sure that this is not the reason.

Coolant level is at minimum.

A clear example of a new and old pump.

Note! Remember that with a stably functioning, working pump, the arrow on the dashboard very rarely climbs to the red mark. This can only happen in the summer, in the heat, when the car is idling or at high speeds.

Examination

It’s easy to check the operation of the pump on the go; you need to move the control levers to blow warm air into the cabin and wait to see what the effect will be. If the air is cold, this means that there is no coolant circulation and the pump is faulty.

Above, all the reasons were described, if they occur, you will, one way or another, need to replace the water pump. And you may have a reasonable question about which one is better to choose and how to protect yourself from buying a obviously low-quality, and sometimes counterfeit, product.

Any car parts can deteriorate over time. Despite the fact that the water pump is a durable and reliable device, it can also become unusable. As you know, nothing lasts forever, so over time the pump needs to be changed or repaired. In case of serious damage, it is advisable to replace the pump with a new one, which will serve properly for many years.

It is very important to purchase a high-quality and durable part

How to change pipes on a pump

Replacing the pipe on the water pump is advisable in cases where the hose is swollen or has small cracks through which antifreeze leaks out. A significant disadvantage of changing the pipes is that they are located below the pump - that is, you will have to jack up the body and crawl underneath.

The old pipes are removed after the antifreeze has been drained and the pump itself has been dismantled. It is important to clean the landing site from dust, dirt and coolant leaks. Then connect new pipes to the new pump, installing a new gasket at the junction. It is recommended to use heat-resistant sealant to ensure reliable connections.


Before installing new pipes, it is necessary to drain the antifreeze from the cooling system.

Work stages and materials

In general, the entire repair can be divided into the following stages:

  1. Preparatory part. This can include preparing tools and places for repairs.
  2. Draining the coolant system.
  3. Dismantling an old device that has become unusable.
  4. Purchase and installation of a new coolant pump

To replace the pump on a VAZ-2115 with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

  1. Socket and open-end wrenches.
  2. Sockets and ratchet.
  3. Jack, supports, wheel chocks.
  4. Cone-shaped pliers.
  5. Screwdriver.
  6. Capacity of at least 10 liters.
  7. Clean rags.

You will also need a sealant. But it must be used carefully, in small quantities.

How to install an additional pump on a VAZ 2114, 2115

Experienced VAZ owners know that the “fourteenth” and “fifteenth” are ideal for conducting a variety of experiments on installing this or that equipment. For example, if the standard heating on a VAZ 2114 through the stove is not enough for the owner, then you can install a second (additional pump). The essence of this procedure is that the pump will pump antifreeze in a small circle, thus providing better engine cooling and maintaining the temperature in the cabin in winter.


A second water pump keeps the cooling system running at peak efficiency.

Installing an additional pump takes a maximum of 10 minutes, but the procedure will increase slightly in time due to the fact that you will have to drain the antifreeze from the system.

You will need to purchase the following spare parts in advance:

  • water pump (for models 2114 and 2115, the ideal solution is a pump manufactured by Bosch 0 392 020 034);
  • elements of electrical equipment;
  • several hoses of different lengths (depending on the diameter of the small circle) with clamps;
  • fastening for the pump.

Assembling the structure

In this case, you will already need some experience in independently servicing a VAZ. So, to install an additional pump, you need to:

  1. Assemble this unit itself from three parts - a pump and two pipes (the shortest hose works for the outlet, the longer one for the suction of antifreeze).
  2. Next, drain the coolant from the system.
  3. Near the bottom of the car, feel for two hoses coming from the stove, remove the one that works for the outlet.
  4. Instead, connect the assembled unit.
  5. After this, attach the pump itself to the crankcase of the manual gearbox. It is better to use brackets and screws for this.

The final stage is pouring new antifreeze.


To mount the pump, you can use any type of fastener, the main thing is to ensure the reliability of the connection

Which pump to choose

Unlike the standard VAZ and GAZ pump, which has a mechanical belt or chain drive, an electric pump is used as an additional driving force. Most often, motorists use an electric pump, which is standard equipment on the Gazelle car.

The unit has high performance, but the quality of its manufacture leaves much to be desired. Therefore, before installing such a pump, it is recommended to disassemble it, coat all seals with automotive sealant, reassemble it and let it dry for 24 hours.

Note: the above applies to old-style pumps. New GAZ pumps have good build quality. However, over time, they also begin to leak.

An alternative to GAZ products is to install an additional pump manufactured by Bosh. These units have high build quality and a different operating principle. The blade rotates under the action of a magnetic coupling, and not an electric motor, as in the first case.

By using such a scheme, the manufacturer was able to abandon sealing connections and almost completely eliminate the possibility of leakage. The disadvantages of the imported unit include its high cost and relatively low productivity (700 liters versus 1200 liters per hour for the GAZ unit).

Replacing the pump on a VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 (16 valves)

The procedure for replacing the water pump on 8 and 16 valve engines will be slightly different. The fact is that on a VAZ 2114 with 8 valves there is only one crankshaft pulley, and on cars with a 16-valve engine there are two. That is, the designs of cars with different types of engines are somewhat different from each other.

In this regard, you need to be extremely careful: pumps for VAZ with 8 or 16 valves cannot be considered interchangeable. That is, when purchasing a new water pump, you should make sure that it is suitable specifically for your type of VAZ engine.

Water pump replacement procedure

First you will need to remove the plastic timing belt protection cover, but this is not as easy as on a VAZ with 8 valves:

  1. In order to remove the casing, you will need to remove the pulleys from both crankshafts.
  2. And you also need to disconnect two timing rollers - support and tension.
  3. It is impossible to remove the pump without dismantling the pulleys and rollers.
  4. You will also need to remove the right front wheel. It is recommended to use a jack to raise the body to the desired height. This is the only way to get to the bolted connections that secure the timing case to the engine.

Next, you can be guided by the diagram that is given for 8-valve engines.

The work of replacing the water pump on a VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to carefully approach each stage of the procedure and work only with serviceable tools. Replacing a pump yourself is a job that does not require special training.

Diagnostics

Replacing the pump on VAZ 2114 and 2115 may be required in a variety of situations. At the same time, it is extremely important to promptly determine that the problem is in the pump. The first and main sign of problems with the pump is increased heating of the engine. When such a phenomenon occurs, a simple diagnosis can be made. To do this, start and warm up the engine. Then we touch the pipe that comes from the pump; if it is working properly, then you will feel the movement of liquid at your fingertips. Otherwise, you will have to change this unit.

In addition to this, there is another pump breakdown, which first warns of failure. This is bearing wear. At first, a howling or knocking sound will be heard when the pump operates. After a while the bearing will simply jam. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to respond to such sounds in a timely manner. Everything is clear with the howling, just open the hood and it will become clear what is howling: the generator or the pump. Knocking is more difficult. People often confuse the knocking noise of the pump and the camshaft. You will probably be able to determine the cause of the knocking only by removing the pump.

It is recommended to regularly inspect the pump for leaks. If there are visible leaks of coolant, the gasket under the pump, as well as that located between the halves of its body, should be replaced.

Why do you need a pump in a car?

The pump promotes the movement of fluid (antifreeze or antifreeze) in the cooling system. There is a shaft inside the mechanism. An impeller is attached there, and when it rotates, circulation occurs.

On the opposite side, a pulley is attached to the shaft. The system is activated by the rotation of the part in the gas distribution mechanism (GRM). When the pump becomes unusable (most often jams), the car engine may overheat. In case of some breakdowns, antifreeze begins to leak from the device.

In cars, a centrifugal type water pump is most often used. This option is characterized by its simplicity of design and durability.

How to determine pump wear

Experienced motorists will easily notice wear and tear on the water pump. It is difficult for beginners to identify a faulty part. Signs of wear are described below.

Engine overheating

When the engine temperature on the dashboard is above 90 degrees, the pump is faulty, especially if overheating occurs in winter.

This symptom, accompanied by a light on the dashboard, indicates a faulty part. Antifreeze boils and steam comes out of the radiator. The car cannot be driven.

To verify the source of the malfunction, you must:

  1. Warm up the engine to 90 degrees.
  2. Set the stove control panel to hot air and turn it on.

If the pump is working properly, heat should flow. If cold air comes out at the operating temperature of the engine, this is a sign of a broken impeller. The pump needs to be replaced.

Uneven timing belt wear

The mechanism is started by the timing belt. If there is a problem, the neoprene product may wear unevenly. You can verify this by removing the belt and inspecting the product. On one side there will be more wear.

The problem is related to the exhaustion of the life of the pump bearings. The part itself may still work properly.

Uneven wear may be due to a bent fastener. You can check for misalignment by holding a ruler or other flat object to the belt.

Leakage

The most common pump problem faced by VAZ 2114 owners is a leak. It can come from under the oil seal, impeller or housing. Liquid will be observed on the device body, mounts or engine protection.

If you notice drops that accumulate for a long time, the problem is not critical and does not need to be fixed urgently. If there is a lot of fluid, intervention is necessary.

Sometimes antifreeze leaks after replacing the pump. This means the gasket is installed incorrectly.

Another indicator of a pump malfunction is the smell of antifreeze in the cabin. It may also indicate other faults.

Attention! The listed signs indicate not only a pump malfunction, but also a malfunction of the cooling system, which is recommended to be checked.

The water pump is a non-repairable part of a car. If it breaks, only replacement will help.

Dismantling

Before starting work, you need to understand where the part is located. The water pump is located on the left side of the engine compartment, under the camshaft pulley, so when it jams, the timing belt flies off.

The removal process is simple; the engine must cool down before doing this.

In a vehicle with an 8-valve engine, the following actions are required:

  1. Disconnect the terminal from the battery.

Disconnecting the terminal from the battery

  1. Remove the timing case (held on by 3 bolts).


Removing the timing case

  1. Place a mark on the camshaft so that it aligns with the mark on the engine. You need to jack up the car and slowly turn the right front wheel, having previously installed 4th gear.
  2. Move the timing belt. The product needs to be loosened; the tension roller will need to be removed.
  3. Unscrew the ignition module mounting bolts without disconnecting the contacts. This is necessary to get to the antifreeze or antifreeze drain plug.
  4. Prepare a container where the liquid will flow and a hose.
  5. Unscrew the plug with a key set to “13”. Place the hose, which should be directed into the container.
  6. When the pressure becomes weak, the lid can be screwed back on. There is no point in draining all the liquid; to make the process easier, you can leave a little.
  7. Then remove the container.
  8. Remove the thin pipe. The part is connected to the throttle valve heating unit.
  9. Remove all heating pipes.
  10. Wedge the camshaft gear teeth with a screwdriver and unscrew the fastening bolt.
  11. Remove the pulley.


Pulley removal

  1. Remove the metal casing (secured with 5 bolts).
  2. Unscrew the pump. Using a wooden block, tap the device body and dismantle it.
  3. Clean the sealant from the seating area.

Attention! During the replacement process, it is recommended to check the timing belt and pulley. If the condition of the parts is poor, they must be replaced along with the pump.

Before installing a new pump, you need to check the old one for play. Check the tightness of the oil seal. If there is no play or leaks, the old pump can be reinstalled.

How to remove a fluid pump

To dismantle you will have to perform the following steps:

  1. Remove the bolts that secure the timing case. Remove this cover.
  2. On the camshaft gear, you need to align the mark with the protrusion, which is located on the left side of the engine housing. To do this, you need to use a jack to raise the right side of the car, then, with fifth speed engaged, rotate the wheel to align the marks.
  3. Be sure to align the marks before removing the drive belt. This will make further assembly easier.
  4. Using a key set to “17” you need to unscrew the nut that secures the tension roller. After this, you need to remove the belt and put it aside. The roller also needs to be dismantled. If you do not plan to replace the timing belt, there is no need to remove the crankshaft pulley.
  5. After this, you need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
  6. Now remove the ignition module; there is no need to disconnect the wires.
  7. Unscrew the bolt that is located in the engine cooling jacket. Drain the liquid. Be sure to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank; without this, the liquid will not pour out.
  8. Next, you need to completely remove the metal casing. To do this, unscrew the 5 bolts securing it.
  9. The pump is secured to the engine block with three bolts. They must be unscrewed using a key to “10”. It is first necessary to tap the housing to facilitate dismantling the unit.

The pump seat on the engine must be thoroughly cleaned so that there are no traces of sealant or old gasket left there. It is advisable to replace the timing belt and pump on the VAZ-2115 at the same time. This will make repairs easier.

Replacing the pump on VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

When replacing a new part, a high-temperature sealant must be applied to the flange and the gasket that must be installed in the socket.

A new pump for a VAZ 2115 car is mounted as follows:

  1. Screw the bolts and tighten them onto the pump flange.
  2. Install a metal casing. Tighten the fastening bolts.
  3. Install the camshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt.


Installing the camshaft pulley

  1. Install the tension roller and timing belt.


Installing the tension roller and timing belt.

  1. Use pliers to adjust the tension level of the product, which should not turn sideways by more than 90 degrees.
  2. Install the protective cover of the timing mechanism made of plastic.
  3. Fill with coolant until it begins to flow out of the removed throttle body pipe.
  4. Install the pipe, tighten the fastener.
  5. Fill with antifreeze or antifreeze to the required volume.

After replacing it yourself, you need to start the engine and warm it up. Then it will be clear whether the pump is working properly or not.

Since 2011, some modifications of the VAZ-2113 and 2114 have had 16-valve engines installed. The pump changes on them in the same way, but there are some differences:

  1. It is necessary to remove two camshaft gears.
  2. The support roller needs to be removed.
  3. To get the protective cover, you need to remove the wheel.

The 16-valve modification of the “fourteenth” model is demanding in terms of correct marking.

Attention! Water pumps for engines injector 8 and 16 valves are different.

Replacing pipes

When replacing the pump, pay attention to the condition of the pipes. If there are cracks or damage resulting in coolant leakage, the product must be replaced. It is recommended to do this when the pump is removed; there is no need to drain the antifreeze a second time.

The main disadvantage of the replacement is that the hoses are located low; to get there, you need to lift the car.

Replacement process:

  1. Drain the coolant.
  2. Remove the water pump.
  3. Clean the seats.
  4. When installing at a joint, install a new gasket using high-temperature sealant.

Replacing the water pump (Pump) on VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115

Welcome! Water pump - popularly called simply a pump, it is responsible for circulating liquid throughout the entire cooling system, and if this pump fails, the liquid will stop circulating or will circulate, but will do so very slowly and reluctantly, therefore the car’s engine will begin to quickly heat up and will no longer maintain an operating temperature of 90°C, but will constantly overheat, which will have a very bad effect on it, in addition, the pump may also jam when the car is moving or even when it is standing still but with the engine running, the pump jamming is very scary, for 8 valve cars it’s not, but for 16 valve cars it’s really very scary, because when the pump jams (no matter how many valves your engine has), the timing belt either breaks or simply flies off, and if it breaks, it can bend the valves, damage the pistons, scratch the cylinder walls, etc., but for 8 valve cars this is not scary (Not for all 8 valve cars this is not scary, because there are also models on which the valves oppression when the belt breaks, for example on the 21081 engine which was installed on the entire Samara family), on them the belt will either fly off or it will break (Then until you replace the pump, you will not be able to drive the car and on top of all this, a new belt you will have to buy it, so just in case, take the pump with you and a new belt, otherwise you never know what will happen on the road, and if you are still far from home, then for any reason you will need to change the pump or drag the car to a service center or to the house for tug).

Note! To carry out the procedure for replacing this item, you will need to take the following set of tools, namely: A set of all kinds of keys, screwdrivers, a rag, an extension cord with socket heads, a wrench, and for small things you can stock up on a bucket, for example (Small), in which you will put all the screws and nuts, otherwise when performing work, small nuts sometimes get lost and therefore we recommend that you put them all in one place!

Where is the water pump (Pump) located? On cars of the classic family, the pump is located next to the generator and when it fails (When it gets jammed, for example), the generator belt breaks and no current flows to the battery, and also because the pump is jammed, the liquid does not circulate through the cooling system and in connection with this, the car begins to get very hot, but as for front-wheel drive cars, in fact it doesn’t even matter what kind of car it is, VAZ 2110 or VAZ 2114, on all of them the pump is located in the same place (Indicated in the photo below with a red arrow , the camshaft pulley is indicated in blue for clarity) and it is no longer driven by the generator belt, but by the timing belt, and if suddenly the pump jams, then the first thing the belt either breaks or flies off, the entire car is immobilized (the engine in this case will work at idle), but with regards to classic cars (We are just disassembling them as an example), then with a jammed pump and an immobilized generator on the car, it will be possible to continue driving, it’s just that soon either the battery will run out or the car will boil.

When do you need to change the water pump (Pump)? Over time, it begins to make noise, and so much noise that you yourself will immediately hear and understand that something is wrong with the engine, but the pump does not always make a lot of noise, sometimes it can even work quietly and at one moment jam, but this is not always the case, in general the pump jams only in the case when the lubricant from the bearings that are located inside the pump is all gone, in addition to noise, there are also several signs that the pump needs to be replaced, for example, if you grab it with your hands and shake it, then it may have play that shouldn’t exist (This is the kind of play that appears from time to time, and with it the pump becomes much louder) or another sign, if you see that liquid is leaking through the pump (This means the pump seal no longer holds), then this is a clear sign that it needs in replacement and if you put off this replacement, then soon all the liquid will pour out of the system or you will simply have to add it very often, we would like to introduce you to one interesting video that clearly shows how the pump has become unusable and is noisy due to this, By the way, if you hold it with your hand (this is even in the video), you can feel a backlash, which, as we said earlier, should absolutely not be there.

Note! You can also remove the pump and check it in full detail, but it’s up to you to decide whether to do this or not, because removing the pump from the car takes a lot of time (If this is not the first time you’ve done the job, then you’ll get it done quickly), and the coolant will have to be drained, and therefore if you are still not sure about the pump and decide to remove it, then immediately replace it with a new one so as not to remove it again in the near future, but although if it is in normal condition, then you can install it back ( We’ll also tell you how to troubleshoot a pump in the article; we’ll tell you right away what the word troubleshooting means if you don’t already know, and this means a kind of check, looking for defective parts in certain systems)!

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