Repair / From Vladimir
- Signs that replacement is needed
- Required Tools
- Replacing the rear brake pads of a VAZ 2109
Tips for working on video
- How experienced car owners do it (video)
The braking system is your safety on the road. If the engine breaks down, then you simply won’t go any further, but if the brakes break down, on the contrary, you won’t be able to stop and the consequences can be different (hardly good). The cost of the pads is low and anyone can replace them, so you should not save on the vital “organs” of the car when replacing pads on a VAZ 2109 and other similar car models.
When and why to change
Why, of course, is a rhetorical question. No motorist wants to be left without brakes. Possible complications will only lead to higher repair costs:
- one of the wheels will jam while driving;
- due to extreme wear, brake fluid will leak;
- the caliper will break.
Rear wheel brake mechanism: 1 - brake shield, 2 - wheel cylinder, 3 - upper tension spring of the pads, 4 - brake pad, 5 - pad lining, 6 - brake drum, 7 - dowel pin, 8 - guide spring, 9 - lower tension spring
The question of “when” is directly affected by driving style and the quality of the pads. There are average indicators: for the front axle - 15-20 thousand km, for the rear axle (drum) - up to 100 thousand km. But this does not exempt you from regular checks.
Front wheel brake mechanism: 1 - brake disc, 2 - pad guide, 3 - caliper, 4 - brake pads, 5 - cylinder, 6 - piston, 7 - pad wear indicator (inspection window), 8 - o-ring, 9 - protective guide pin cover, 10 - guide pin, 11 - protective cover
Features of replacing rear brake pads on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
The service life of rear brake pads on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 vehicles and their modifications is 60-70 thousand km.
Depending on driving style, serviceability of the brake system and operating conditions, this period may vary up or down. Therefore, the frequency of checking the condition of the brake pads is 60.
000 km. The minimum permissible thickness of brake pads is 1.5 mm. In this case, the brake pads must be replaced. They must be replaced in pairs (on the right and left rear wheels at the same time).
- Necessary tools, accessories and spare parts
- — Set of rear brake pads for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars and their modifications
- — Medium slotted screwdriver
- — Pliers with thin jaws
- Preparatory work
- — Remove the rear wheel
- - Remove the brake drum
- — Clean the rear brake mechanism from dirt
The procedure for replacing brake pads on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
First remove the front brake pad, then the rear. Before removal, we bring the pads together as much as possible, pushing the pistons of the brake cylinder inward. This can be done using two mounting blades if their ends are placed behind the shoulder of the supporting brake shield and compress the pads with them.
— Disconnect the upper tension spring of the brake pads
We lean the slotted screwdriver on the brake cylinder and using it as a lever, use its blade to pry up the edge of the upper tension spring and disengage it from the front block. We take out the spring.
Disconnect the upper tension spring
— Disconnect the front pad guide spring
Use a screwdriver or pliers to pry up its edge and remove it from engagement with the block.
Remove the front brake pad guide spring
- Remove the front brake pad
We lower it down along with the lower tension spring. Disconnect the spring and remove it by hand.
Removing the front brake pad
— Remove the expansion bar
It is not secured by anything and is simply removed.
Removing the expansion bar
— Disconnect the guide spring from the rear brake pad
We pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers.
- Remove the rear brake pad
In this case, it is necessary to remove the tip of the parking brake cable from engagement with the manual drive lever (the lever is secured to the rear block).
Removing the rear brake pad
— Separate the manual drive lever from the rear block
To do this, you need to unsplit the lever axis using pliers and remove the lever from it.
That's it, the brake pads are removed.
Features of installing new brake pads in the rear wheel brakes
- — First install the rear brake pad, then the front in the reverse order of removal
- — Attach the manual drive lever to the rear brake pad
- At the same time, we put the lever on the axle, install the spacer washer, install the lever, and secure it with a cotter pin.
- — Tension the tension springs using pliers or a screwdriver
- — After installing the brake pads and drum, press the brake pedal several times to self-adjust the gap between the pads and the drum
- We carry out a similar procedure for removing the old brake pads and installing new ones for the other rear wheel.
Notes and additions
— When replacing rear brake pads, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the brake drums, since the efficiency of the rear brake mechanisms of the braking system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars is based on the interaction: pads - drum. And if the drum is worn out and the pads are new, normal braking will not be achieved.
— Also, if necessary, replace the guide springs of both pads.
— You should pay attention to the brake cylinders of the rear brake mechanisms. Leakage of brake fluid through their seals is unacceptable. It is also unacceptable to operate cylinders with damaged anthers.
Required Tools
You will need radically different tool sets for the front and rear axles. Let's start with something simple. To replace the front disc brake pads you will need:
- flat screwdriver;
- open-end wrenches for 13 and 17;
- metal brush.
If you don't have WD-40, you can use kerosene.
Spray it from a disposable spray bottle The following list for replacing the rear linings of a VAZ 2109 (21099) may not be all you need, but you need to be prepared for difficulties. Full recommended list:
- hammer (preferably a larger one);
- pliers;
- flat screwdriver and metal brush;
- WD-40 lubricant;
- wooden block or board;
- two open-end wrenches for 13;
- 13mm head with extensions.
We put on gloves and get to work.
Preparing for replacement
The vehicle is first placed on level ground. Its front wheels must be secured with chocks, since the rear part will need to be jacked up. An additional danger for the owner is the fact that all work is carried out with the handbrake released. Don't forget to also be sure to set the first gear before starting the replacement.
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In order not to waste time looking for a tool, prepare it in advance. You will need:
- pliers;
- a set of regular spanners;
- wooden block;
- wheel wrench;
- 6-point sockets with extension.
Since replacing the brake pads requires removing the wheels, the bolts on them are loosened before lifting the car with a jack. Under no circumstances should they be torn from their place in a suspended state.
The guide pins are removed directly from the hubs (there are two of them on each). To do this, use a 12 mm socket wrench.
As a rule, removing the brake drum is not difficult, but sometimes it does not work. In this situation, a blank is used. Wood cannot, in principle, damage the above part, but a metal hammer will do this easily. From an impact, the drum, in particular, can crack or, for example, become deformed.
If you cannot remove it in any way, then you need to screw the previously removed pins into the threaded holes. They will then rest against the hub and press out the drum. It is important to tighten them as evenly as possible, otherwise, due to misalignment, the spare part being removed will jam tightly.
How to change the front ones yourself
Compared to the previous procedure, replacing the front pads will seem very easy. The wheel, of course, will also have to be removed. After which you can verify the need for repairs through a special “window”. The thickness of the friction material should not be less than 2 mm, otherwise you risk being left without brakes at any time.
Measure the thickness with a ruler; it’s better not to do such calculations by eye.
- There is a single bolt at the top of the caliper, held in place by a lock washer. It is necessary to straighten it using a flat screwdriver.
Use a long, thin, flat-blade screwdriver. If there is resistance, use a hammer. The bolt should be unscrewed while holding the guide with another wrench.
Secure the mechanism with the second anti-rotation key - The brake hose must be released from its mounting.
Remove the Brake Hose You can now “open” the caliper by moving it to the side. Remove the old pads.
Remove worn pads - To ensure that the new linings fit neatly into place, it is better to thoroughly clean all points of contact.
This is where a metal brush comes in handy. - Naturally, the new clutches are thicker than the old ones and it will not be possible to put the caliper back. Therefore, it is necessary to depress the brake cylinder. To do this you will need a large screwdriver. Close the brake mechanism without pads and press the screwdriver, like a lever, against the cylinder. It will take some effort, so be careful not to let the screwdriver come off. Then install new linings, close the caliper and tighten the mounting bolt.
Step 3
Step 2
Step 1 - Reassembly will be quick. Tighten the bolt, holding the guide with a second wrench, and bend the washer stopper into place. Don't forget to secure the brake hose and you can screw the wheel into place.
Complete the installation by snapping the washer stop and securing the brake hose.
How experienced car owners do it (video)
Stages of work
So, the work of replacing brake pads can be divided into several separate stages, namely.
- The first stage includes a procedure that involves tightening the cable that regulates the operation of the hand brake. It must be said right away that this is a rather complicated manipulation that will require installing the machine on an inspection hole or using a special lift. What complicates the work is that you will have to remove the muffler, which of course also takes a lot of time.
- Next you need to remove the rear wheels and get to the brake drums. Moreover, since this element constantly interacts with the wheel, it gets stuck and therefore you need to use a special lubricant to unlock it.
- There are situations when the disk is clamped so tightly that it cannot be unscrewed immediately. In this case, you need to resort to a certain trick. Namely, using lubricant, apply it to all contacts of the disk. After this is done, you need to start tapping the drum, making sure to use a wooden block. Only its use will prevent the hammer from damaging the disc.
- When you are done with the disc, you can proceed directly to the procedure of replacing the pads. To do this, you need to use a screwdriver and pliers, first prying the upper and then the lower spring.
- It is worth remembering that when replacing pads, a special lever is used, which remains in place and subsequently works with new pads.
After the procedure for replacing the pads has been completed in full, work remains on assembling the drums and wheels. This is done in reverse order. When the work is finished, you need to conduct a small test of the new pads and only after that you can put the car on the road.
Additional recommendations
- If you cannot depress the brake cylinders, open the cap of the brake fluid reservoir to reduce the pressure.
- If the pads wear unevenly, pay attention to the caliper. Most likely it will need repairs.
- When replacing the rear pads, change all the springs as well. They are inexpensive, but they will protect you from possible failures until the next replacement.
- The front caliper guides can be lubricated with graphite grease for smoother operation.
Replacing the pads on the front axle will not cause problems even for “dummies” of automotive repair. But from the back it’s not so simple. Assess your strengths and capabilities in advance: can you reach the handbrake cable and cope with a stuck brake drum? If yes, then everything will definitely work out.
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