What to do if a grenade knocks in your car - DIY repairs

Every experienced driver always listens to various sounds while operating his car. The appearance of uncharacteristic knocking or humming may indicate the presence of some kind of malfunction. Prompt diagnostics in most cases helps to significantly save your money on further repairs.

In cars with front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive, problems often arise with the CV joint (constant velocity joint). Such parts are made from high-quality metal alloys, but even this does not prevent possible damage. The main sign of a malfunction in this component is the appearance of a specific crackling sound.

A little about the nature of the problem

A CV joint is necessary to transmit rotation between the axle shafts with a constant change in the angle between them. The part is used in front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles. The drive wheel in such cars must not only rotate, but also turn, and also lower and rise on a spring. Such hinges allow you to do all this.

The design of this unit consists of three main components:

• The outer housing, which is made in the shape of a bowl and is connected to the axle shaft.
• Inner ring. It has a spherical shape. There are six grooves on it, thanks to which the clip is attached to the outer casing.
• Six small balls in the separator. They are located between the bowl holder and the machines.

The problem is that during operation, with the constant “walking” of the balls in the structure, wear and small scuffs form. The movement of the balls becomes more free, which leads to a characteristic sound. Even inexperienced drivers will be able to determine the presence of this problem. You may hear clicking sounds accompanied by vibration or whistling. In most cases, the sound will resemble the crunching of metal.

DIY grenade replacement

The CV joint (in common parlance a “grenade”) is the most important component of a car’s chassis, but its service life, like any other part, sooner or later ends. Naturally, timely replacement of the CV joint is a necessary procedure that can be entrusted to car service specialists, or you can try to do it yourself. Well, to be sure that it is the grenade that needs replacing, you just need to turn the steering wheel left and right. If, during such turns, a distinct crunch and crack is heard, then the unit is out of order, and the grenade needs to be replaced - there are no options. Watch the video below: “Replacing a grenade on a VAZ 2110, 2112, Kalina, Granta, Priora, 2109, 2114”

Why does a grenade fail?

As a rule, grenade failure occurs due to damage to its boot. A leaky boot allows dust and dirt to penetrate into the CV joint separator, which causes rapid wear of the joints. How to replace a CV joint boot

In addition, the time for the end of operation of a grenade, which has already completely exhausted its resource, may simply be approaching.

Another reason that leads to grenade failure is damage to the locking ring. Because of this damage, the axle shaft can partially fly out of the cage during sharp turns, gradually breaking the entire CV joint.

Grenade replacement process

To replace a grenade with a new unit, you will need the following tools and equipment:

• Three socket heads (“13”, “17” and “30”);
• One wrench (“17”);
• One mounting blade;
• A driver with a long handle;
• Wheel bolt wrench.
• Flat head screwdriver;
• Mallet;
• Jack;
• New grenade;
• New boot;
• A set of new rings for the shaft.

REMOVAL OF AN OLD GRENADE:

1. We tighten the handbrake;
2. We lock the rear wheels with clamps;
3. Using a screwdriver, remove the cap located above the hub nut and loosen it slightly;
4. Using a jack, we lift the side of the car on which the CV joint will be replaced;
5. We dismantle the wheel;
6. Remove the thrust washer from the hub.
7. Unscrew the fastening bolts holding the lower ball joint;
8. Using a wrench, move the steering knuckle to remove the ball pin;
9. We continue to shift the steering knuckle and the strut, and dismantle the splined component of the outer CV joint;
10. We remove the clamps from the outer grenade (this is done by fixing the drive shaft).
11. We remove or simply cut off the old boot;
12. We knock the grenade out of its mounting location with the shaft using a drift.

Installation of a new grenade and boot is preceded by thorough lubrication of these parts. This procedure is done only with the help of a special graphite lubricant. The main thing here is not to overdo it, since excess lubrication can harm the elasticity of the boot, but for a grenade, abundant lubrication will only be beneficial.

INSTALLING A NEW GRENADE looks like this:

1. We install a new boot;
2. We put the rings on the shaft (in the reverse order of their removal);
3. After thoroughly lubricating the grant, we join it with the shaft splines and hammer it onto it using a mallet;
4. We fix the assembled structure with clamps;
5. We mount the drive on its seat (first we screw the hub, then we install the ball pin, after which we tighten all the fastening bolts and nuts).

As you can see, after spending about half an hour, you can replace the grenade yourself, even without having previously had experience in such work.

Video: Replacing a grenade on a VAZ 2110, 2112, Kalina, Granta, Priora, 2109, 2114

Is the CV joint really to blame?

As soon as you hear a crunching sound in your car, you should not draw any clear conclusions, because the source may be some other component. The involvement of constant velocity joints can be determined in two ways.

Turn the wheels of your car all the way to the side, and then try to drive off in this position. If in this particular situation a crunching sound is heard, then the problem is really in the hinges. This problem can also occur when overcoming small obstacles, for example, potholes on a country road. There will be increased stress on the CV joints and you should hear crunching sounds.

Even a European car breaks down

You might think that all of the above-described malfunctions are characteristic exclusively of the Russian automotive industry. In fact, everything is completely different - even an expensive foreign car cannot be saved from breakdown. The whole point is also how often this will happen.

Currently, it can already be seen that the quality of the Russian automobile industry has improved significantly. For example, Renault Logan cars recently began to be produced in Russia - there are no problems with quality. To avoid suffering from car breakdowns, experts advise the following: you need to go for a full diagnosis at least once every month or two for the first six months, but there is no need to lead to symptoms (knocking, grinding and crackling noises).

Also, breakdowns largely occur due to poor-quality road surfaces. As you know, roads in Europe are much better than in Russia. For this reason, cars there are operated under more gentle conditions than here.

Reasons for appearance

Before we talk about how to determine which CV joint is crunching, it is necessary to find out the most common causes of this problem. Correct diagnosis greatly simplifies repairs. The key reasons for this phenomenon include:

• Defective part. At a car service center, you could have had a CV joint installed that was not made to the standards, which is why there were gaps from the factory. In this situation, the best solution would be to completely replace the CV joint.
• Lack or insufficient amount of granite lubricant. It is recommended to replenish it to the required volume.
• Severe wear on the anthers. During operation, these components lose their elasticity, which is why sand, dirt, water and dust get into the hinge structure. All of them lead to the appearance of a specific crunch.
• Aggressive driving style. In such situations, a very large load is placed on the hinges, which significantly reduces their service life. With constantly aggressive driving, the crunch will not take long to occur.

Causes of creaking rack and steering column

If the steering column is not working properly, you will hear a slight knock and noticeable vibration when driving. The cause of this malfunction is a strong mechanical impact on the steering wheel, during sudden braking or a collision during an accident. Such signs indicate deformation of the steering column. Also, strange sounds may come from the coupling.

Of course, the best way to eliminate a squeaking or knocking sound when moving and turning the steering column is to simply replace the non-functioning element with a new part. Unfortunately, the steering column is expensive, which means you need to look for ways to repair the old part. Vibration and noise can be eliminated using lubricant. Lubricating the driveshaft with a small amount of grease can eliminate unwanted noise, but this will only mask the symptoms.

It is important to seek help from professionals who can fix the broken part before it completely fails.

How to find out which CV joint is crunching

Each wheel has two hinges: internal and external. This significantly complicates the diagnostic process, since they are located next to each other, so it is almost impossible to determine by ear which of the components makes sounds. A few tips will help you find out which CV joint is crunching (internal or external):

1. Turn off the vehicle, and then use a flashlight to locate the hinge pins. Pull them one at a time without applying much force. If no play is detected, then the part is fully operational. If a large amount of wear occurs, your actions will lead to a crunching sound, which will help diagnose the failure of a particular hinge.
2. The second method allows you to diagnose a breakdown of the external hinge. You need to drive onto a flat road, and then turn the wheels to the side until they stop. If at this moment you hear a characteristic sound, then the problem is in the internal CV joint. The left part is worn out when there is a sound when turning right. With the right part there will be a sound when turning left. This is due to the fact that when turning, the entire weight of the car falls on the opposite side of the turn.

Preparatory work

If the bevel gears fall off, you will have to remove the gearbox and completely disassemble it. Preparation includes the following steps:

1. Complete or partial drainage of oil from the gearbox. When removing the internal CV joints, oil will spill out; to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to drain at least 2/3 of the total volume.
2. Unlocking the front wheel hub nut (or both, if two drives need to be repaired).
3. Loosening the hub nut and wheel bolts. The hub must be unscrewed using a 30mm wrench with a large lever.
4. Removing the wheel after installing the side to be repaired on the jack and support.

Having completed the preparatory work, you can begin directly replacing the VAZ-2109 CV joint.

Diagnostics of the internal CV joint

It can be quite difficult to determine the malfunction of this component, and sometimes it is impossible to do without the help of specialists.

Drivers can try a number of tests to try to determine if this part is faulty on their own. To do this, you need to find a straight road with small potholes. Drive along it without turning. If you hear a familiar sound, this indicates a clear failure of the internal joint.

Common causes of knocking noise associated with the steering mechanism

Now let's look at typical problems and how to fix them.

The first thing you need to do is check the pressure in the wheels, because the difference in tire inflation may be the cause of the knocking.

Then check the fastening of the plastic protective fender liners. It is quite possible that the screws that secure them to the body have broken out, causing the fender liner to come off and cling to the wheel, making a knocking sound when turning.

POPULAR WITH READERS: ZIL-157, spare parts catalog

In general, such a malfunction is very easy to fix; all you need to do is secure the torn fender liner with new screws.

The most dangerous from a safety point of view is the appearance of a knock in the steering mechanism itself. To check the condition of the mechanism, you will need to drive the car onto an overpass.

The first thing you need to check is the steering ends. Damage to the tip boot leads to sand getting inside it, which intensively wears out the surfaces of this element, causing play to appear in the tip, which is the source of knocking.

You can check the condition of the ends by loosening the tie rod with a pry bar.

Strong play and knocking will indicate wear on the tip and the need to replace it.

Steering ends for domestic cars are relatively inexpensive, and you can purchase them at almost any auto store.

Replacing them is also easy. It is recommended to replace both tips at once.

The complexity of performing this work comes down to the need to use a special puller.

After replacing the tips, you will still have to contact a service station to set the wheel alignment angles.

A knock may also appear in the steering rod silent blocks. They are located in the place where these rods are attached to the steering rack.

Delamination of the rubber of these silent blocks can also lead to knocking, although it will appear not only when turning, but constantly while driving.

This steering mechanism malfunction, although very rare, is still possible. It can be eliminated by removing the steering rods and pressing in new silent blocks.

A knock may also appear in the steering mechanism itself. It usually forms after the rack guide bushings wear out, causing a gap to appear between the rack and gear.

In some cases, everything can be eliminated by removing the gap with the mechanism's adjusting bolt.

If this is no longer possible, you will need to remove the mechanism from the car, disassemble it and replace the worn guide bushings.

A knock may even appear in the steering column universal joint.

If for some reason it is damaged, it is quite possible that it is the cause of the appearance of third-party sounds. This problem is “treated” by replacing the cardan.

You should also check the fastening of the mechanism body to the car body. Loose clamps may cause noise. This can all be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.

Is it possible to drive if the CV joint crunches?

There is no clear answer to this question, since the component can only be partially worn out, so it will still last a certain number of kilometers without any consequences. If a crunching sound occurs, all experts strongly recommend contacting service, as delay can lead to more serious consequences, which include:

• Structure jamming. The hinge stops rotating completely. This is extremely dangerous when driving at high speed. Losing control of a car can lead to death and a traffic accident.
• Broken axle shaft or shaft. No torque will be supplied to the wheels, making it impossible to continue driving your vehicle. There is also always the danger that a rupture will damage other components in the immediate vicinity.

In most cases, a complete replacement of the constant velocity joints is necessary, however, with minor wear, drivers can carry out a number of works that will help eliminate the crunching noise. These include:

• checking the integrity of the anthers and replacing them in case of wear;
• cleaning the structure, replacing lubricant;
• in some cases, you can try sanding the surface to eliminate play.

The appearance of a crunch is not critical, and you will be able to drive to your home or auto repair shop. But if such sounds are detected, it is naturally recommended to immediately take appropriate measures to eliminate the malfunction. The sooner the repair is completed, the cheaper it will be. The information above will help every motorist in a garage to determine the breakdown of a specific joint.

Silent blocks crunch

​This is a common malfunction of rubber-to-metal joints, especially in hot summer weather. At elevated air temperatures, silent blocks may creak, which indicates the need to check and replace them.

The creaking or crunching of silent blocks on a summer day occurs due to drying out of the hinges. The main material of these units is rubber. At elevated temperatures, it dries out and decreases in volume, especially if these nodes are already old.

There is no particular danger in the crunching of silent blocks until the rubber breaks. It is necessary to remove the silent blocks and carry out a visual inspection. If cracks or damage are found, they should be replaced. If no problems are found, then they should be put in their place and continue to enjoy driving the car, hoping that soon the air will become cooler and the squeak will disappear.

Selection of products by issue

Chassis

If a crunching sound occurs when driving at high speed or when moving sharply from a standstill with the steering wheel turned, it means that the constant velocity joint is worn out. There are several reasons for this wear and tear. The issue may be:

• Natural wear and tear;
• Violation of the integrity of the CV joint cover;
• Aggressive driving style (too abrupt start, extreme steering, etc.)

Recommendations from XADO specialists

How to solve the problem of CV joint crunching? If the cause of the unpleasant sound is minor wear of the joint, then there is no point in buying a new one. It is better to use a special lubricant XADO Repair Grease, which contains revitalizant, and restore wear.

In addition, to eliminate the problem described above, it is recommended to flush the CV joint using XADO Universal Industrial Flushing. This tool should be used as follows: first, the CV joint is dismantled and disassembled, outlining the location of the parts. Next, the mechanism is cleaned of old lubricant and washed.

After washing, the CV joint must be reassembled in the reverse order, first making sure that there is no damage such as chips, deep cracks, holes more than 0.1 mm deep; and smearing all minor damage with the drug. After such treatment and 18-20 thousand kilometers, the CV joint crunch should disappear. After the sound stops, it is recommended to wash the inside of the CV joint again and apply XADO Grease for CV joints, which does not need to be changed throughout the entire service life of the car.

In front-wheel drive vehicles, the driving wheels are also steered. The transmission of rotation with the ability to turn the wheels is provided by constant velocity joints (CV joints) used in the drive design.

Replacing the CV joint and boot on a VAZ-2109 - what is needed for this and how the replacement is carried out

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! Greetings to all car enthusiasts, happy owners of the VAZ “Nine”! With the start of VAZ's production of eighth and ninth series vehicles, a change in priorities occurred on the domestic passenger car market.

The rear-wheel drive “classics” now have worthy competitors, whose chances of getting higher positions in the sales rankings increase every day.

A more modern design, an economical and dynamic engine and, of course, front-wheel drive, became the distinctive features that allowed the new models to become the object of dreams of thousands of car enthusiasts.

The new car required car service technicians and their owners to gain knowledge and completely new skills in repairing components that were not found on previous models. One of the most mysterious parts that is often a dead end is the VAZ 2109 CV joint.

CV joint 2109 – the basis of front-wheel drive

Thanks to the fact that the front wheels became the drive wheels, the “Nine” gained excellent maneuverability and significantly reduced fuel consumption. For all good things, sooner or later you have to pay.

The ability for the front wheels to be driven was given by a special device - CV joint 2109. Constant velocity joint - this is how the mysterious set of letters is deciphered.

Internal CV joints of the VAZ 2109 transmit rotation from the gearbox to the axles, at opposite ends of which external CV joints are installed. They are the ones who spin the wheel and allow it to turn.

The importance of CV joints cannot be underestimated

In this regard, it is important to constantly take care of their condition

Constant operation of a car requires, in relation to CV joints, the implementation of several simple rules, namely:

• periodically inspect the condition of the CV joint boots and internal lubrication;
• immediately replace the VAZ 2109 CV joint boot if it is damaged;
• If such signs as impacts or “crunching” of the CV joint appear, the CV joint must be immediately replaced with a VAZ 2109.

What is needed to independently replace the CV joint on a VAZ 2109?

In order for the repair work to go smoothly, you need to be properly prepared. It should be noted right away that it is only at first glance that replacing the VAZ 2109 CV joint boot or the hinge itself (both external and internal) seems like a difficult undertaking.

Having carried out the procedure of replacing the CV joint or boot once, any car enthusiast will be able to repeat everything, as they say, with his eyes closed.

Preparation for CV joint repair includes the following steps:

• purchasing a new CV joint, boot, lubricant, clamps and other accessories, which, as a rule, are included in one repair kit;
• the car is installed on an overpass or inspection hole, but in addition, a jack and “goats” should be prepared for the safety of the repair work being carried out;
• You should have a set of standard tools on hand, including: socket wrenches with extended handles or attachments, a hammer, brass or wooden spacers.

You need to start by putting the car on the parking brake and fixing the rear wheels with stops. After the hub nuts and wheel bolts are loosened, the front of the car is raised and placed on racks so that the wheels are suspended.

The wheel must be removed, as well as unscrew the hub nut and remove the lock washer. The preparation ends by unscrewing the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.

How is the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2109 replaced?

Before we begin describing the repair process, we note that regardless of whether it is necessary to replace one CV joint or both, and also how many boots need to be replaced, the shaft with two CV joints must be removed.

First, let's look at how to do this. Having turned the hub using the steering wheel, using gentle blows through the spacer, knock out the axle shaft of the outer CV joint from the splined joint of the hub.

Then, using a pry bar, you can remove the inner CV joint. All. The shaft with CV joints is ready for repair. If CV joints are removed from both sides at once, it is strongly recommended to insert old hinges into the gearbox mounting sockets so that the gears do not move.

For convenience, the shaft is clamped in a vice. Now you can remove or cut off the old boots and lightly hit the CV joint body with a hammer to remove it.

A similar algorithm of actions will always be used if it is necessary to replace the CV joint boot or the hinge itself.

If one CV joint is being repaired (changed), you should never be too lazy to disassemble, wash and re-lubricate the second one. It is better to change the anthers at the same time.

The shaft is installed in the reverse order.

Crunching is a characteristic sign of malfunction

CV joints are fairly reliable units, but they also fail. Problems with them manifest themselves in the form of distinct crunching sounds when performing maneuvers, knocking noises when turning the steering wheel, and vibrations (twitching) of the car when driving over uneven surfaces.

Experienced drivers call this unit more simply – a grenade.

If a crunch is a characteristic sign of a grenade malfunction, then other structural elements can also make knocking noises in the front of the car, so when they appear, you must first perform diagnostics and determine which component is faulty.

Moreover, even if there is complete confidence that something is wrong with the CV joints, you still need to find out which unit is problematic, because the drive design uses 4 such components (2 internal and 2 external, a pair for each left and right drive shafts).

What is this?

By grenade, car mechanics and motorists understand a mechanism that ensures the transmission of torque when the wheel is turned up to 70 degrees around its axis. The grenade is also called a homokinetic joint and CV joint.

The grenade consists of the following elements:

1. Bottom part.
2. Grooves.
3. Frame.
4. Separator with balls.

The fact that it’s time to start looking for a new grenade on the Priora can be easily understood by the following changes in the condition of the car:

• The appearance of grinding, crunching, clicking noises when driving in a car (the noise increases with sharp accelerations, turns, and overcoming obstacles on the road).
• Minor jerks when starting the car.

Types of CV joints, their design features

The most common types of CV joints in the design of front-wheel drive passenger cars are ball and tripoid.

The former are often used on the outside, the latter as internal hinges. On some models, ball devices may also be installed exclusively.

The design of these types of CV joints differs, and significantly. The tripoid assembly consists of an outer casing of a certain shape, on which there is a drive shaft end stop (thanks to it, the drive is connected to the gearbox).

The housing contains a tripoid with rollers, mounted via a splined connection on the drive shaft.

Ball CV joints are partially similar in design to conventional bearings - there are two cages between which the balls are located in the separator.

The outer ring of the unit is its body, on which another shaft end is attached (it is installed in the wheel hub). The inner race is mounted on the drive shaft by means of a spline connection.

The transfer of force from the inner race to the outer one in such a hinge is carried out by balls, which are located in special grooves on the working surfaces of the races.

Shall we get started?

Do-it-yourself outer CV joint (grenade) puller

Before replacing the mechanism, you need to drain all the oil from the gearbox. Let's not touch the jack yet! It is necessary to place a brick under the rear wheel of the car, after this procedure we take the head at 30 and, accordingly, loosen the nut. Don't be alarmed, you may need about a half meter long piece of pipe half a meter long as a lever. Remember, we only need to loosen the nut, not remove it yet! Everything worked out? Go ahead! We lift the car with a jack, and only now completely remove the hub nut along with the washer. Now you can safely remove the wheel from the hub. Take the 13mm head and remove the two bolts that secure the ball to the hub. After this, we move the hub and remove the outer grenade from it. Then we attach a pry bar to the internal grenade and, using hammer blows, knock it out of the gearbox. By the way, if you still don’t have a pry bar at hand, a piece of pipe can replace it. When the grenade is removed, we clamp its shaft in a vice. We remove the clamps from the unusable boot. After that we shoot down the outer grenade

Attention! In order not to damage it, you need to hit it along the edge. When this operation is completed, remove all old grease from the mechanism, wash it in gasoline or kerosene and wipe it well again, this way you can better remove traces of grease

Now we put a new boot on the drive shaft, and using a hammer we hammer the outer CV joint back, after thoroughly lubricating all the parts of the product. After that, we put it on and tighten it with a collar. Then we insert the grenade into the gearbox, driving it there. We place it in the hub and return the ball to its place. We put on the hub nut.

Attention! The hub nut does not need to be tightened with great force. After installing the wheels, tighten the bolts without applying much physical force.

1. We remove the car from the jack, place a brick under the front wheel and tighten the nuts tightly.
2. Well, now pour oil into the gearbox.

That's all. Congratulations! Replacing the boot on the VAZ-2109 is complete!

Signs of malfunction when turning and accelerating

Symptoms of malfunctioning external and internal hinges manifest themselves in different ways.

It is quite simple to determine the wear of the outer CV joint by the characteristic crunch when turning, which appears when you start driving with the wheels fully turned, especially when starting at high engine speeds.

Additionally, vibration may occur on the steering wheel. When the wheels are aligned, the sound disappears. This is all due to the peculiarities of the operation of the hinges - as the angle between the shaft and the limit switch increases, the load on the CV joint increases, and if there are backlashes in it due to wear, then they lead to a crunch in the unit.

Internal hinges do not work at such significant angles as external ones, so they do not always make a crunching sound, which complicates their diagnosis.

Malfunction of CV joints installed near the gearbox often manifests itself in the form of vibrations and knocking in the front suspension when the car moves over uneven surfaces. Moreover, the more unevenness (deep holes, strong bumps), the stronger the knocks.

In some cases, symptoms of a faulty inner joint appear even when driving on a flat and straight stretch of road when accelerating to 100 km/h or above.

When is a car's CV joint checked?

If the CV joint crunches, many drivers are interested in how long they can drive the car before repairing such a breakdown. In other words, how long can you drive if the CV joint crunches? There are several reasons why repairs are delayed:

• Constant velocity joints on some cars can be quite expensive.
• the crunching and knocking may not be strong, etc.;

First of all, the ability to operate the car depends on the severity of the breakdown. The more worn out the CV joint is, the sooner it needs to be replaced. In this case, knocking and crunching are indicators indicating the need for replacement.

For example, if the crunch is strong, it is better to change the joint immediately. The fact is that if the unit is completely broken (jamming, cracking of the body or balls falling out, etc.), you can get serious problems with other units, units and elements.

In turn, you can try to eliminate the symptoms of a malfunction at the initial stage using a maintenance method (lubricating the CV joint and replacing the boots). If there is no result, then you should prepare for the fact that with increased noise, knocking and crunching, the part will need to be changed. This can happen after 500-1000 km. after the first symptoms appear, or later.

At the same time, experts still do not recommend operating the car and subjecting the car to loads in the presence of such faults. This means that you can drive with a partially faulty CV joint for some time, however, the part should be replaced at the first opportunity and not delay the repair. If the signs of failure are serious (extreme noise and crunching), you should stop using it and replace the hinges.

How to check the outer CV joint

Having identified characteristic signs of a malfunction, an additional check of the CV joint is necessary. If you need to check the outer CV joint, there are some things to consider. The part is attached to the internal hinge through the axle shaft on one side, and attached to the hub on the other.

Considering that the hinge is a separator with balls, if the ball mechanism is damaged, a crunching sound appears. The case is also protected on top by a dust cover. If the boot is torn, moisture, dirt and dust get inside the CV joint and damage it.

In order to check the outer CV joint, you need to drive on a flat road, turning the wheels in one direction and the other until they stop. In the extreme positions of the steering wheel, you must press the gas. If the crunching intensifies, then the external grenade is faulty. In this case, a crunching sound when turning left will indicate that the CV joint on the right “passenger” side is faulty. If the sound appears in a right turn, in this case the left CV joint (on the driver’s side) crunches.

Checking the internal hinge

As for the inner CV joint, this element is structurally similar to a glass (there is an outer housing with bearings that move in three planes). The shaft is inserted into the gearbox, while the tripod with bearings is fixed to the axle shaft.

The design of the inner CV joint is extremely simple; the joint fails much less often than the outer one. However, the lack of lubrication in the inner CV joint and a torn boot can damage even such a reliable mechanism.

To check internal grenades, you need to select a section of the road where there are holes and uneven spots. The main symptom of a faulty internal joint is a knocking sound when the wheel hits a hole.

Please note that before checking, it is advisable to perform chassis diagnostics to rule out other possible causes of knocking.

There is another method of checking - you can load the rear axle of the car to such an extent that the “nose” of the car rises higher, and the axis of the inner CV joint deflects. If a knock occurs under such conditions, this means that the internal CV joint has failed.

Other verification methods

As part of diagnosing constant velocity joints, you also need to know another way to determine which CV joint is crunching. However, this method is only suitable for cars with a manual transmission. The tool you will need for checking is a jack.

If the inner CV joint breaks, knocking noises will be heard when you press the brake. If the internal CV joints are working properly, the engine will stall and there will be no extraneous knocking noises. Next, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right and press the brake. If a crunching sound is added to the knocking sound, the external grenade is also faulty. Using this method, you can check the CV joints on the axle shafts on both sides.

We determine which CV joint crunches, the inner or outer one

Several methods are used to diagnose CV joints. The simplest of them is a visual inspection of the anthers and checking the shafts.

The main cause of problems associated with the appearance of crunching is the ingress of dirt into the nodes, which can only occur due to damage to the boot.

If the rubber element is torn, then upon inspection there will be traces of leaking lubricant on it, from which you can understand which of the units got sand and dust.

Also, during inspection, you should try to move the drive shaft in the transverse and longitudinal directions by hand. CV joints are highly precision-manufactured units, and if it feels like they have play, it’s time to take action.

If, during a visual inspection, no leaks in the boot are detected, but symptoms of a joint malfunction appear, several simple methods can be used to identify which of the CV joints is problematic.

Diagnostics of external hinges

External hinges are tested by placing a strong load on them. To do this, simply turn the wheels all the way to the right or left and try to start moving at higher speeds. Afterwards, we carry out the same procedure again, but this time when turning the wheels in the other direction.

When checking CV joints using this method, starting to move with the wheels turning to the left will create a significant load on the right unit, and if it has play, it will begin to crunch.

By turning the wheels to the right, the left hinge is checked. But we note that a crunching noise can also be produced by the outer CV joint on the side where the turn is being made.

Therefore, when checking, it would not be superfluous to have an assistant present, who, being near the car, will establish by ear which side the sound is coming from.

Checking internal components

To determine which inner CV joint is crunching, a different method is used. To carry it out, you need a flat section of the road, but with a bump (hole).

The essence of the test comes down to driving through a hole at a moderate speed with one of the front wheels. Then everything is repeated, but with the second wheel entering the hole.

When a wheel hits a bump, a shock load occurs on the inner joint, and if there is play in it, they will manifest themselves in the form of knocks or soft crunches.

Universal method

The only drawback of the method of driving into a hole at speed is the fact that there is not always a suitable section of road with a bump. Therefore, another method can be used for diagnostics, and it is universal and allows you to check both internal and external CV joints.

Replacing a CV joint with your own hands - video - Do-it-yourself vase repair

Replacing a grenade on a Lada Kalina with your own hands
You can understand that it is time to replace the angular velocity joint by the characteristic knocking and crackling sound that comes from the wheels during turns. In some cases, of course, knocking and crunching may appear for other reasons, so in order to make sure that the CV joint is the culprit, you should try to shake the drive shaft; if you feel play with your hand, then one hundred percent it’s time to change the joint angular speeds.

Also, I would like to note one more element that is tightly connected to the hinge, which is responsible for angular velocities - the dust cover. To diagnose a malfunction of this element of the machine, you must completely turn the wheels and conduct a visual inspection; if you notice obvious mechanical defects, you must urgently replace it.

• Let us recall that in the previous article we looked at how to remove an air lock from the engine cooling system with your own hands.
• Replacing the angular velocity joint: stage one
• First of all, you must secure the car using the parking brake, and also place locking bars under the rear wheels.

Next, loosen the hub nut and remove the protective cap. This can only be done with a strong tool and using a lever from a pipe. It is worth noting that as an alternative and more reliable option, a special key for unscrewing the drive can serve, but the usual one is not in the garage, and there is not always anyone to borrow.

After unscrewing the hub nut, start loosening the wheel bolts. Replacing the hinge responsible for angular velocities: stage two

Now you need to lift the front of the car so that the wheels come off the ground, and secure the vehicle in this position with the help of supports. Next, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the thrust washer located on the hub nut.

The next step is to unscrew the two bolts located on the steering knuckle and connecting it to the lower ball joint. Before performing this work, you must turn the steering wheel in the tap position in the direction from which side the replacement is being made.

Next, pull back the steering knuckle and pull out the splined end of the outer part of the angular velocity joint. After this, using a pry bar, remove the inner part of the angular velocity joint.

Now, you should fix the shaft in a vice and remove the anthers with clamps, then knock down the vehicle element in question with a hammer.

Replacing the CV joint with your own hands: stage three

The third stage is the final one. You must put a new boot on the shaft and fill the joint, which is responsible for angular velocities, which was pre-filled with lubricant. After this, clamp the boot clamp with pliers.

A very important point is the fact that before putting all the drives in their original places, you must mount a new stopper ring on the hinge responsible for the angular velocities.

Video. How to replace a CV joint with your own hands

The final step is the final fixation of the angular velocity hinge. To do this, you must strike with a hammer at half force along the axis of the shaft. At the same time, in order not to damage the axle, you should use a wooden softening spacer.

The CV joint crunches at low temperatures, what to do?

As a rule, at low temperatures, the cause of crunching of CV joints is poor-quality lubricant, which is not able to perform its functions in extreme cold.

Car manufacturers, when supplying their products to Russia, must take into account the operating conditions.

The frozen lubricant binds the internal elements of the grenade and does not get into all the cavities of the assembly, which is why the crunch appears.

At this moment there is no need to turn sharply and pick up speed; after a few kilometers (20-30) the components will warm up and the crunching will disappear by itself.

But the problem is that the internal grenades warm up quickly, but the external ones at very low temperatures may not warm up and the crunch will remain.

There is an opinion (and not without reason) that the problem is not only in the lubrication, but also in the design of the CV joint itself. The fact is that the lubricant put into the product may not be suitable for this design, while on other car models it works well even at temperatures below -20 C.

Some car owners are guilty of using polyurethane boots, which can be installed on some brands of cars instead of rubber ones. They say that in the cold they tan and make sounds. This is a controversial opinion that requires verification.

The problem can be solved by replacing the lubricant; some car owners recommend LM47, VERYLUBE, XADO, they performed well at low temperatures. But it’s difficult to give any advice here, the choice on the market is huge and opinions vary.

But, you need to change the lubricant not just by pressing it under the boot, but completely remove the assembly, disassemble it and press the new lubricant as much as possible instead of the old one into hard-to-reach places. It is these places that cause crunching in severe frost, especially for external grenades.

Removing the drive

Now you can remove the drive. Even replacing the outer CV joint boot of a VAZ 2109 is better and faster when the drive is completely removed. But that’s not the only catch. The fact is that when replacing the boot, it is worth washing the hinge and filling it with new lubricant. This way you can increase its service life, unless, of course, you “kill” the drives with an aggressive driving style. Completely unscrew the nut from the hub. Now you can carefully remove the outer CV joint from it.

To do this, carefully, trying not to damage the brake pipe, pull the strut while holding the disc. The hub should easily come off the splines on the drive. That's all, now you need to remove the internal

Let's take into account the fact that you have already drained the oil from the box. Therefore, using a small chisel, which you place between the box and the hinge, as well as a hammer, knock out the CV joint from the gearbox

You should not try to use a crowbar; in this case, only a weak but sharp blow will save you.

Elimination of crunches and knocks, restoring the operation of CV joints

How to find out which CV joint is crunching - we figured it out, now about the measures that should be taken to fix the problem, since it is undesirable to operate a car with problematic joints.

One of the disadvantages of CV joints is their non-repairability, that is, if the joint crunches, then it is worn out and requires replacement. The only thing that can be done is to “extend the life” of the node and delay its replacement.

Since the main reason for the appearance of crunches is dust and dirt, when they appear, you should immediately inspect all the anthers for damage. If none are found, we determine which CV joint is crunching using one of the above methods.

After identifying the problematic hinge, we try to extend its service life. To do this you need:

• Remove the drive from the car;
• Disassemble the CV joint;
• Thoroughly wash all components with gasoline, solvent or other means (white spirit, etc.);
• Apply new CV joint grease or equivalents (see above) and assemble the hinge;
• Install a new boot;
• Install the rebuilt drive on the car.

At the initial stage of wear, these measures are enough to get rid of the crunches, but they will eventually return (when the wear intensifies) and then the hinge will have to be replaced.

Removing and disassembling the internal hinge of Lada Priora (VAZ-2170)

How to replace a grenade on a VAZ 2110 car
We carry out the work when replacing a hinge or its cover. Remove the front wheel drive (see “Removing the front wheel drives”).

We clean the outside of the hinge and clamp the drive shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw linings.

Using sliding pliers, squeeze the large clamp by the protrusions and pry the end of the clamp with a screwdriver...

... disconnect the clamp and remove it. Similarly, remove the small clamp.

Slide the cover off the hinge body. Using a rag, remove the grease from the end of the hinge housing.

When replacing the hinge cover, we use a file to mark the relative positions of the body, holder and hinge separator so that they take their original places during assembly.

Use a screwdriver to pry up the inner hinge retainer...

...and remove the lock. We move the hinge body along the shaft...

By striking the end of the joint cage through a soft metal drift...

...remove the cage with the separator and balls.

The drift should not transfer force to the cage and balls to avoid damaging them. Using a screwdriver...

...remove the retaining ring from the shaft groove. Remove the protective cover of the joint from the shaft. To inspect the hinge parts, take out the balls and arrange them in order. We remove the clip from the separator.

We remove the old grease from the hinge body and wash it in kerosene. Wipe the hinge parts with a rag and blow with compressed air.

We inspect the balls, separator, cage and internal cavity of the body. Scratches, dents, cracks, and traces of corrosion are not allowed - we replace such a hinge.

We clean the shaft of old grease and apply a thin layer of new grease to it. We put a new joint cover on the shaft and install a new retaining ring in the groove of the shaft. We put a separator on the end of the shaft (the conical part to the cover).

Using a hammer with a plastic striker, press the cage onto the splined part of the shaft. Rotate the separator until the marks align.

We insert the balls into the separator windows. To hold the balls in the windows, we apply lubricant to them (CV joint-4).

We put the same lubricant into the cavities of the hinge body and the cover, apply it to the balls and the separator - 80 g in total. We put the hinge body on the inside of the hinge according to the marks and install the lock. We check the mobility of the hinge body - it should move without jamming.

We put the cover on the hinge body and install a small clamp. We install the hinge body approximately in the middle position from its longitudinal movement relative to the shaft.

Using a screwdriver with a thin blade, we move the edge of the cover away from the hinge body to equalize the air pressure inside and outside the cover. We secure the cover with a large clamp.

How to recover?

With an average degree of wear, the problem with crunching can be solved by washing the unit and adding new lubricant to which soft plastic shavings have been added (a Champagne cork or a nylon lid for cans will do).

During operation, the CV joint assemblies will easily crush such chips and fill with them the formed traces of wear on the working surfaces, thereby eliminating the backlash. But the effect of such a restoration will be short-lived, and ultimately the hinge will have to be replaced.

In the end, we note that for long-term and trouble-free operation of constant velocity joints, it is enough to only periodically check the condition of the anthers, if a tear is detected, immediately replace them and wash the assembly.

With such measures, the CV joint can fail only with severe natural wear, but this will not happen soon.

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The drive consists of two CV joints, internal and external, connected by a drive shaft. The CV joint consists of a cage, an inner race and six balls. Inner and outer CV joints are structurally different.

How to extend the service life of CV joints? You need to ensure that sand and dust do not get into the inner CV joint; to do this, change the CV joint boots in a timely manner. If necessary, lubricate the CV joints with a specialized lubricant.

How long does it take to change the CV joints on a VAZ 2110? The CV joints are replaced after certain symptoms appear: Noise, knocking from the front axle when the car is moving (especially when turning). People say simply, you have a grenade crunch. Check the condition of the CV joints as follows: drive into the sand and turn the steering wheel to the side, abruptly start moving with slipping. If there is a crunch, it means replacing the CV joints.

What will happen if you do not change the CV joints for a long time? If the suspension grenade breaks, then the wheel will certainly not fly off, but if you do not change the CV joints that have already served their purpose, the mechanism will jam and the car will not be able to start moving.

Which CV joints to choose for the VAZ 2110? In addition to the regular CV joint, you can install a tripoid CV joint. Its design is fundamentally different from the constant velocity joint used in these vehicles. You can ask your consultant what the best grenades for the VAZ 2110 are, but this will not guarantee that you have not been deceived. Therefore, it is better to rely on reviews and survey results.

How to replace a CV joint on a VAZ 2110? If you decide to replace the front wheel drives yourself, then you can use the instructions.

So, let’s vote and leave reviews about the VAZ 2110-12 CV joints:

1. Which CV joints did you choose?
2. What kind of CV joints were there before?
3. Impressions and comments on CV joints.

ps Off-topic comments will be deleted.

Which external CV joints are best to choose for the VAZ 2110-12?

Which inner CV joints are best to choose for the VAZ 2110-12?

What type of internal CV joints is better for the VAZ 2110-12?