Lada Vesta oil pan drain plug, analogues and articles

Oil pan plug for Lada Vesta and Lada X Ray engines.

Attention, this is not the same plug that comes from the factory (this one is turnkey-square),

but she stands up wonderfully in place of her native one.

Oil pan plug with magnet - Carius, exactly the same as Asam Sa,

only another brand

This plug has proven itself well on cars such as:

Renault Logan, Lada Largus.

Not suitable for Vesta and X Rey with AMT with a sump where 3.2 liters of oil is filled.

Suitable for cars with AMT with 4.4 liters of oil.

Motor oils are a thick liquid mixture of base oils and additives intended for the lubrication system of internal combustion engines.

Motor oil is a very important element. The quality of lubrication of all rubbing surfaces in the engine, as well as the period during which the oil retains its properties, depends on the quality of the engine oil.

Each car, each engine has its own recommended oils. This data is indicated by the manufacturer in the vehicle's operating manual.

There are three types of oils. Mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic. Mineral oils are obtained by distilling petroleum. Synthetic - by organic synthesis. This is more complicated, which is why synthetics are significantly more expensive than mineral water (if you take one oil manufacturer). Semi-synthetic is, roughly speaking, mineral oil plus synthetic components.

The viscosity of the oil is indicated on the packaging (canister). For example, 5W30, where W means the oil is all-season, 5 is the viscosity at low temperatures, and 30 at high temperatures.

Low temperature viscosity is easy to calculate. It is necessary to subtract 35. 0W is used up to -35°С 5W up to -30°С 10W up to -25°С 15W up to -20°С 20W up to -15°С

High temperature viscosity is more difficult to calculate. Here you need to take into account a combination of many factors. It shows the viscosity at operating temperature, 100 - 150 degrees. The higher the value, the higher the viscosity.

All tolerances are indicated by the manufacturer in the motor oil tolerance table.

Here are the approvals for the Lada Vesta car:

What kind of oil to fill in and which manufacturer to choose is up to the car owner to decide. More expensive oil is not always better quality. Here, as they say, it comes down to taste and color. But it’s worth remembering that expensive brands are often counterfeited. There is still an opinion that synthetic motor oil is preferable for new cars.

For example, we took Rosneft Premium 5W40 for Vesta at TO-0. Purchased at an official Rosneft gas station to prevent counterfeiting. The Vesta engine was filled with Rosneft 5w30 service oil from the factory. Whether or not to do TO-0 is also up to the car owner to decide for himself. We decided to play it safe and drain the factory one and fill it with a new one after 3000 km, after running-in.

The engine oil change interval is set by the factory. At AvtoVAZ they believe that changing the oil every 15 thousand is enough. It is more correct to calculate the interval not by mileage, but by engine hours and operating conditions. Since in Russia it is hot in summer and cold in winter, there is a lot of sand, dust, uneven terrain, and so on, it is better to change it every 10 thousand mileage, or even 8 thousand. But everyone decides for themselves.

We bought 4 liters of oil plus another liter. We have a Vesta with a French gearbox. It has a cast pan, according to the instructions it contains 4.2 liters.

We bought the filter from Mahle - OS384. You can take MAN. The same filters that were installed on all front-wheel drive VAZ models are suitable for Vesta

There are also different opinions about whether to flush the engine or not. And the car owner also has to decide for himself. We decided not to rinse. This will leave some old oil in the crankcase. And with the use of flushing oil, the same amount of flushing will remain.

What kind of oil to pour into the VAZ engine of Lada cars

April 30, 2022 Lada.Online 486 746

The first thing a new car owner has to deal with is finding out what technical fluids are in the car and how soon they should be replaced. The engine is considered the main unit, so most often they start with motor oil.

Let us remind you that AVTOVAZ installs the same type of power units on its models, so the recommendations on “what oil to fill in the engine” will be the same for all modern Lada cars (Granta, Priora, Kalina, Largus, Niva, Vesta or XRAY).

AVTOVAZ installs the following engines on Lada cars:

Engine model	Volume, l	Power, hp	Number of valves, pcs	Engine oil volume, l	Installed on cars
VAZ-21114 or VAZ-11183	1,6	81	8	3,5	Granta and Kalina
VAZ-21116/11186/11189	1,6	87	8	3,5	Granta, Kalina 2 and Priora, Largus
VAZ-21126	1,6	98	16	3.2 (2.9)* manual transmission 4.4 (4.1)* AMT	Priora, Kalina, Granta and Kalina 2
VAZ-21127	1,6	106	16	3,5	Priora, Kalina 2, Granta
VAZ-21126-77	1,6	118	16	3,5	Granta Sport
VAZ-21128	1,8	98	16	3,5	Priora
VAZ 11194	1,4	89	16	3,5	Kalina
VAZ 21129	1,6	106	16	3,2 (2,9)* (1) 4,4 (4,1)* (2)	Vesta, Lada XRAY
VAZ 21179	1,8	122	16	3,2 (2,9)* (1) 4,15 (3,85)* (2)
VAZ 21214	1,7	81	8	3,75	Niva 4x4

* – When refueling a dry engine for the first time (when changing the oil and oil filter) (1) – stamped oil sump (AMT) (2) – cast oil sump (manual transmission)

We select Niva 4x4 engine oil in a separate article.

What motor oils are recommended by AVTOVAZ? If you open the Operating Manual for the vehicle and its modifications, not the latest edition, you can find table No. 2 “Motor oils”. Comparing them for different Lada cars, you can understand that AVTOVAZ recommends the same motor oils for Lada Granta/Kalina/Priora engines.

For Lada Vesta, AVTOVAZ recommends using Rosneft brand motor oil, API class SL, SM or SN.

What brand of oil does the Lada come from the factory?

Engine 1.6: Rosneft ROSNEFT MAGNUM MAXTEC 5W-30 STO 44918199-091-2021 semi-synthetic.
Engine 1.8: until 05.2021 LUKOIL GENESIS SAE 5W-40 STO 79345251-040-2021 synthetics, from 05.2021 ROSNEFT MAGNUM MAXTEC 5W-40 STO 44918199-091-2021 semi-synthetics.

You can add ROSNEFT Premium or ROSNEFT Maximum 5W-40 or 10W-40. Or Lukoil Genesis RN 5W-40.

You can determine the viscosity of engine oil using the following table:

Minimum engine cold start temperature, C	Viscosity grade according to SAE J 300	Maximum ambient temperature
Below -35	0W-30	25
Below -35	0W-40	30
-30	5W-30	25
-30	5W-40	35
-25	10W-30	25
-25	10W-40	35
-20	15W-40	45
-15	20W-40	45

How to determine the composition of motor oil? To answer this question, we conducted surveys among owners of Lada Grant, Lada Kalina and Lada Priora, asking them to answer the question “What oil composition do you use in your car?” as a result we received approximately the same results:

What brand of oil do you use? The next polls and very similar results:

Where to buy? Original LADA oil can be purchased in our online store.

The survey below will help you finally decide on the choice of engine oil. Take part in our survey and discussions. Let us remind you that the website contains instructions for changing engine oil, as well as recommendations on which engine oil is best to choose based on viscosity and composition. By the way, the Lada Vesta is also equipped with an HR16 engine; read recommendations on choosing lubricants for it here. For Lada Largus with Renault K4M or K7M engine here.

What is the gasket on the plug used for?

You will be surprised, but replacing the gasket that the drain plug has is a mandatory maintenance item. Under no circumstances should you forget about this operation.

Similar gaskets are found on all machines that have an oil pan. That is, 95% of all cars driving on Russian roads. Among them:

Hyundai Solaris;
Renault Logan;
Kia Sportage;
Opel Astra;
Kia Rio;
Chevrolet Lacetti;
Kia Sid;
Nissan Almera;
Toyota Corolla;
Ford Focus, etc.

It doesn’t matter whether you drive a ’99 Mitsubishi Galant or a brand new Mercedes. Everywhere there is a drain plug on the pan, and therefore a gasket is used everywhere.

This gasket is installed directly on the plug, protecting against possible leakage of lubricant.

In fact, this is a one-time item. Experts and experienced motorists recommend changing it every time a complete oil change is performed.

But this is not relevant for express oil changes, when the drain plug cannot be unscrewed and the liquid is pumped out through the filler hole.

If you completely drain the compound, then use flushing oil, and then fill in with fresh lubricant, then be sure to buy yourself a new gasket for the plug.

About 30 years ago, such gaskets were not installed on plugs during car production. As a result, this caused a number of problems and malfunctions. If the plug was not tightened tightly enough, the oil began to leak out when heated and pressure increased. To avoid this, motorists tried to tighten the element more tightly. As a result, the threads were torn off, the plugs broke, they jammed, we had to cut them out, saw them out, and sometimes completely replace the oil pan. Surprisingly, the use of one small element completely solved all the problems.

As you can see, the gasket is truly an important element of the entire car engine sump.

To securely fix the plug and not cause a leak, you don’t need to apply a lot of force.

Payment instructions for changing the oil in a manual transmission

To change the oil in a Renault JH3 manual transmission on a Lada Vesta, you will need to follow these steps:

Prepare fresh oil; at least 2.3 liters are required for replacement. Since adding fluid to a manual transmission is not practiced during operation, it is enough to purchase 3 liters of fluid.
To access the drain plug, you must place the vehicle on a horizontal lift or inspection hole. The use of inclined platforms is not recommended, since complete drainage of fluid from the transmission housing is not ensured. Before performing work in winter, it is necessary to warm up the engine and gearbox by driving 25-30 km.
Using a 10 mm socket wrench or socket, unscrew the bolts securing the engine crankcase protection. The design uses 13 screws, which are located around the perimeter of the screen.
Wipe the bottom and side of the transmission housing with a rag.
Unscrew the plastic plug for the inspection and filler holes located on the side of the housing. On the top of the crankcase there is a ventilation duct equipped with a hose. It is strictly forbidden to pour oil through the breather hole.
Prepare a container to collect the lubricant, and then unscrew the drain plug with a 4-point wrench.
Drain the oil from the crankcase. Since the liquid has a high viscosity, you will need to wait 10-15 minutes. Draining of the lubricant is considered complete when there is no leakage from the hole. At the same time, the condition of the copper sealing washer provided on the drain plug is checked. A crumpled or torn gasket must be replaced. If you keep the old ring, grease will leak out of the crankcase during operation.
Flushing the transmission crankcase is not practiced, but some owners add special fluids to remove wear products. The factory documentation does not contain recommendations for flushing the crankcase. If steel or brass shavings are found in old oil, it is recommended to disassemble the unit and replace worn components.
Screw the plug into the standard socket and tighten with a wrench.
Fill the crankcase with fresh transmission oil using a special syringe. It is possible to fill the liquid from the hood side; to complete the work you will need a funnel with an extension hose. The sleeve is installed in the filler hole and brought up, about 3.1 liters of liquid is poured into the crankcase. When filling from above, it is recommended to use a second person to monitor the filling of the reservoir with lubricant.
Wipe the crankcase from lubricant stains with a rag and screw the plug into its original place. Before installation, the rubber O-ring must be inspected. Use of damaged parts is not permitted.
Reinstall the removed engine crankcase protection in its original place, and then check the operation of the transmission. After 1-2 days of operation, it is recommended to check the lubricant level to make sure there are no fluid leaks. If the level is insufficient, then it is necessary to add lubricant.

The algorithm for replacing the lubricant in a VAZ-21807 gearbox consists of the following steps:

The car is placed on a lift or inspection hole, and then the crankcase protection is removed.
It is necessary to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the intake air intake resonator to the front panel of the body using a Torx T30 wrench.
Separate the air pipe from the resonator body; the parts are connected with a plastic clamp.
Remove the resonator hose from the air filter housing; the design uses plastic latches. To simplify the work, use a screwdriver with a thin flat blade or a plastic mounting blade. When removing hoses, be careful not to damage the mating surfaces and latches.
Remove the resonator housing from the engine compartment. The unit has an additional support on the battery platform.
Disconnect the cable from the reverse gear sensor, and then unscrew the sensor using a 22 mm socket. Under the sensor there is a copper washer, which is also removed from the box housing.
The control hole plug is unscrewed, and then the plug in the drain channel is removed. Both plugs are unscrewed with a 17 mm socket wrench. The old oil is drained into a pre-prepared tank.
After the liquid has drained, screw in the drain plug (it is recommended to replace the sealing metal washer).
Fresh lubricant is poured using a funnel with a tube through the hole for the reverse sensor. It is recommended to introduce liquid in portions of 0.2-0.4 liters, ensuring that the lubricant drains into the crankcase cavity. Refueling continues until an oil leak appears through the control channel.
Close the inspection hole with a plug and install the sensor and resonator in place.

Injecting oil using a transmission syringe.
It is allowed to fill the oil with a transmission syringe through the control hole. In this case, there is no need to remove the resonator and reverse sensor. The technique for replacing lubricant through the hole for the sensor is also applicable for the French analogue of the Renault JH3.

How to unscrew the plug

Square - 8;
Hexagon;
Tetrahedron;
Square - 9.

If unhindered removal is not possible, mechanics recommend tapping the plug head without excessive force, then unscrewing it.

The content of the article

Hi everybody! Owning a car doesn't just mean freedom of movement. This is also a whole range of activities related to car maintenance. A fairly large number of consumables are subject to periodic replacement. These include the engine sump drain plug gasket.

In fact, this small element provides protection against possible leakage of oil from the oil sump of an automobile power unit.

If you notice traces of oil under the car, it is possible that it comes out through the engine crankcase cover. Moreover, many cars often have crankcase protection.

Let's talk about this gasket, its tasks and the materials from which it is made.

Reviews are positive and negative

№	Positive
1.	Valentin, 39 years old, Moscow, owner of Lada Vesta: I follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, buy original domestically produced lubricants. Good price-quality ratio. I don’t think it’s necessary to overpay for a foreign brand. The priority is Rosneft, Lukoil, Motul.
2.	Gennady, 41 years old, Voronezh: from the moment of purchase at the car dealership I fill it with Rosneft, good quality, price depending on the place of purchase. Russian oil is not the best, but at this price you can’t find analogues.
3.	Vladislav, 36 years old, Krasnodar: I took the car second-hand and got it in good condition. The previous owner filled Rosneft. I didn’t change traditions; I continue to buy domestic lubricant.
4.	Dmitry, 45 years old, Sevastopol: I fill Lada Vesta with Lukoil 5W30, as specified in the regulations. On the recommendation of my comrades, I switch to foreign analogues in the form of Mobil on a synthetic basis. The quality and viscosity coefficient are higher.
5.	Vadim, 28 years old, St. Petersburg: the car is already two years old, there are no complaints, it works properly. I buy Russian-made consumables for maintenance; I don’t plan to switch to foreign analogues. There are several reasons for this: price, high probability of counterfeit.
6.	Vitaly, 43 years old, Moscow: I regularly get serviced at a service station, replace consumables according to the regulations. I buy Russian oils and filters. I heard negative reviews about the domestic one, I don’t agree. It is extremely difficult to find a good product at a budget price.
7.	Alexander, 37 years old, Belgorod: my friend at the workshop recommended that I fill in Shell Helix Ultra synthetics. I’m in no hurry to switch, since Rosneft is quite happy with me.
8.	Vasily, 23 years old, Sverdlovsk: the car is a year and a half old from the date of purchase, there have been no capital investments, so little things and scheduled maintenance. I buy Russian consumables, the price is budget, the quality is above average. Foreign analogues cost three times as much.
9.	Vyacheslav, 39 years old, Rostov-on-Don: I listen to the manufacturer’s advice, buy domestic consumables: filters, lubricants, liquids. There are no complaints about the Lada Vesta, it works properly.
10.	Gennady, 45 years old, Volgograd: a year has passed since I bought the car, there have been no breakdowns, minor improvements to quiet the interior, I have it serviced at a service station, I purchase domestic consumables.
Negative
11.	Sergey, 34 years old, Saratov: dissatisfied with the factory oil, the quality is low, viscosity and fluidity are at a minimum. After two months of use, I switched to the foreign analogue Mobil on a synthetic basis.
12.	Vladlen, 29 years old, Tambov: after the first maintenance at 3000, I drained Rosneft and filled it with Castrol 5W30. I am satisfied with the quality, fuel consumption has decreased by 3 - 4%.
13.	Vladimir, 48 years old, Penza: on the advice of his comrades, he drained Lukoil and filled it with Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40. The engine runs smoothly and starts with a half turn.
14.	Mikhail, 39 years old, Samara: drove 10,000 km on domestic synthetics, after which he dumped them due to poor quality. I bought MobilSuper 3000 X1 5W-40, I think that it is better than the Russian equivalent.
15.	Dmitry, 42 years old, Kazan: after buying the car, I drained the factory oil, using CastrolMagnatecAP 5W-30 4l. The cost is more expensive than the Russian analogue, but you have to pay for quality.

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Purpose of the product

A drain plug is used to remove waste oil from the engine sump. To place it, a boss is welded at the bottom point of the crankcase, in which a threaded hole is made for the plug. The latter comes with a conical thread, which does not require additional sealing, or with a cylindrical fine thread and a collar designed to install a seal ring. Typically, a magnetic tip is attached to the inner end of the product, designed to collect and extract metal particles formed during friction between metal engine parts.

How to properly replace the oil filter?

It is not difficult to replace the MF correctly in the Lada Vesta SV Cross, following simple rules. Before installing a new MF, it is necessary to check the pressure of the bypass valve. This information is written on the body of the equipment.

Oil filters for many cars are compatible in terms of mounting threads, but the pressure varies. If you put an MF with a pressure of 1.5 bar into the system, where the valve should open at 1.7 bar, then the efficiency of the filtration process will be sharply reduced. As a result, oil will constantly flow.

It is also worthwhile to inspect the landing surface under the MF. There should be no burrs on it. If they are, you should remove all defects using sandpaper. Otherwise, the oil will flow as well as in the previous case.