Priora hatchback trunk gas struts which are better

About gas struts in the trunk of Priora hatchback and station wagon

Standard gas struts for the Priora trunk:

• hatchback SAAZ 21720-8231015
• station wagon SAAZ 1119-8231010

The force with which the gas struts open the trunk lid is determined by the “Force on the rod” parameter, and for standard Priora trunk shock absorbers it has a value of 340N. If the trunk has been soundproofed, then stronger gas struts will be needed to lift and hold the heavier trunk lid.

VAZ tailgate shock absorbers:

So, if the trunk on a Priora does not open, then it makes sense to install gas stops 2111-8231010 for the VAZ 2171 and 2112-8231010 for the VAZ 2172, because they have the greatest force on the rod. Trunk shock absorbers from Kraft and Finwhale are also praised, but in order not to make a mistake, before purchasing, check what force they have on the rod.

Replacing trunk supports of Priora

You will need : two open-end wrenches “13”, a handle.

1. Open the tailgate and install a wooden strip as a stop.
2. We unscrew the lower ball pin of the stop using an open-end wrench “13”.
3. While holding the stop, use the same key to unscrew the top pin and remove the stop from the car.

With a more powerful gas stop, the trunk lid will open already from the middle of the journey, but closing the trunk will have to be done with great effort.

By the way, do you know how to solve another well-known problem of hatchbacks and station wagons, getting rid of trunk squeaks?

Restoring struts: collapsible and non-dismountable shock absorber

A simple automobile shock absorber has the following design:

• lug body;
• rod with casing and mounting eye;
• piston, compression and return valves, rings;
• cylinder with valves;
• seals and fastening nuts.

First of all, the main problem of the shock absorber is leakage of oil or boost gas. As a result, the rack leaks, a knocking sound is heard during operation, and deformation of the rod is also possible. Violations of tightness and defects lead to changes in characteristics (partial or complete loss of performance). As a result, the car handles and brakes poorly, rolls, and does not hold the road, since the struts do not dampen the vibrations and sway of the body.

The main malfunctions include: free movement of the rod in the pipe, play during compression or rebound (workout in the rod or cylinder), damage to the shock absorber valves. It is also impossible to exclude external damage (case cracks, dents, etc.).

To repair, you need to remove the strut, remove the spring and release the shock absorber. Next, you should understand whether the shock absorber on the car is collapsible or non-dismountable. If the body is solid, then such a rack cannot be repaired. It is officially prohibited to open the body and try to weld the shock absorber after repair. If there is a nut or retaining ring in the place where the rod enters the pipe, this stand allows for repairs or maintenance.

To repair a gas and gas-oil collapsible shock absorber in a garage, you will need a compressor for supplying air (you can use a bicycle pump), a fitting for supplying compressed air, and a pressure gauge

Please note that you will have to work with high pressure, you should protect your eyes, hands, and face in advance

Repair of a collapsible type rack begins with the rack being clamped vertically in a vice, washed of dirt, and the entry point of the rod is also blown with air. Next, disassembly of the shock absorber begins and the protective cap of the rod is removed. Then you need to fill the shock absorber under pressure; for this you need a pressure gauge.

The shock absorber can be filled with nitrogen, carbon dioxide and compressed air. In the garage, it is optimal to use compressed air for repairs. First, the rack is disassembled, cleaned, the O-rings are checked, and the condition of the inner wall of the pipe is assessed.

If the shock absorber has damage to the rod, seals or valves inside the strut, you can buy a repair kit for dismountable shock absorbers, remove “live” parts from another strut, etc. The main task is to install all functional parts to obtain complete tightness, while cleanliness is extremely important during assembly (debris and shavings will quickly damage the restored rack).

By the way, it is always better to replace the oil seal with a new one, even if the existing one does not cause any complaints. Next, all that remains is to pump oil or air into the shock absorber, after which the strut needs to be pumped.

Shock absorber bleeding is required

Please note that shock absorber repairs must be done in pairs, just like replacements. In other words, repairing rear shock absorbers or repairing front struts involves manipulating both the right and left sides, that is, you need to restore both struts on the same axis

Now let's move on to how to disassemble a shock absorber and how to repair a non-dismountable shock absorber. Let us note once again that such parts are not officially repaired. However, repairs are possible, but they require skills and special equipment. In fact, usually non-separable shock absorbers are simply converted into collapsible struts.

If there is equipment, the repair comes down to the fact that it may be necessary to change the main part of the rack (cartridge), it may be necessary to replace the rod (sometimes to install a reinforced one), oil seals, seals, etc. In general, the process is reminiscent of repairing struts with your own hands in the case of collapsible shock absorbers.

In fact, it all comes down to replacing worn components, reassembling and pumping gas/oil. The main difference is that you need to remove the “cover”, which is not removable. There are many ways, from drilling holes to converting the rack from permanent to collapsible by installing a rod protection cap.

In any case, such repair of the shock absorber strut (if it is successful) allows you to restore performance, but it is difficult to guarantee the reliability and service life of the repaired strut. The main reason is that, in fact, it is necessary to make changes to the design, since the restoration of non-separable type shock absorbers involves disassembling and subsequent reassembly of the body, which initially does not provide such a possibility.

Purpose of hood and trunk shock absorbers

When opening the hood or trunk lids, you sometimes have to overcome significant force due to the large mass of metal, glass and mechanisms contained in them. A spring mechanism that supports the cover will help partially relieve the driver's hands from the load.

Previously, springs were made of metal and had significant dimensions and weight. In addition, they needed additional fittings in the form of rods and levers, sometimes arranged in very intricate mechanisms. After all, the working stroke of a coil spring or torsion bar is quite limited, and the hood swings open to a large angle.

The engineers were helped by the introduction of pneumatic stops (gas springs). The gas compressed in them allows for a significant difference in pressure in the extreme positions and preliminary compression in the form of a factory-set amount of air or nitrogen in a limited-sized working chamber. High-quality rod seal allows long-term storage and operation without loss of operating force.

Purpose and types of shock absorbers

A shock absorber is a device designed to dampen vibrations and shocks falling on the lower part of the car, which are then transmitted to the steering wheel and into the passenger compartment. A shock absorber or, as it is also called, a strut prevents this process, softens the harshness of driving, making it more comfortable and stable.

In addition, the part in question gives the car maneuverability and reliability. If good struts are installed, they allow the car to easily take sharp turns and cope with any tests on the road perfectly. The following types of shock absorbers are known today:

In addition, racks are divided into:

• single-pipe;
• two-pipe;
• adjustable;
• unregulated.

Despite the fact that the rack designs are different, all types of parts have the same operating principle. When the piston located in the cylinder begins to move, it passes shock-absorbing fluid through the valves, which dampens vibrations that occur while the car is moving. The quality of extinguishing depends on the speed of liquid movement through the valves.

We independently remove the trunk lid on a VAZ 2115

Over time, any mechanism wears out. What should be done with the trunk lid of a VAZ 2115 if it no longer holds on? This problem may appear as early as six months after purchasing the car. The torsion bars start clicking when the trunk opens. And then the trunk lid of the VAZ 2115 simply does not hold. A good solution to the problem would be to replace the hinge. At the beginning, a new hinge and paint are purchased. It is necessary to degrease the surface and then paint. When replacing, it is recommended to remove the rear window. If the torsion bar bounces, it won't break it. Now the trunk lid will open easily.

Also, if the trunk lid does not hold, then you can remove the rear parcel shelf and see the shifted plates into which rods are installed that work to twist. They jump off a fixed place and do not create a twisting effect. Therefore, you need to carefully remove the rods from the fixations using a steel tube, return the plates to the desired position and tighten them securely. Using the power lever of the steel tube, return the rods to their original position.

To securely fix the cover you will need a classic brake spring. But this method is good for a short time - the spring quickly stretches. Therefore, you can install a shock absorber for the rear door of a VAZ 1117. In order to install it in the trunk of a VAZ 2115 you need: a shock absorber from Kalina, self-tapping screws, an iron strip that is tucked under the upholstery. When the trunk lid lifts up, it rises neatly and does not fly up, as it did before.

VAZ-2115: Shock absorbers instead of torsion bars (already 5 options)

It is well known that installing a 12-inch subwoofer in the rear parcel shelf of a VAZ-21099 / VAZ-2115 without removing the trunk lid torsion bars is impossible. This photo report describes the method I used to get rid of torsion bars by installing shock absorbers, as well as four methods of installing shock absorbers that I learned about from readers. Now the photo report contains 38 photos, a short story about all the improvements and a reference table that allows you to select shock absorbers for any car.

VAZ-2115: Shock absorbers instead of torsion bars v.1 (my version)

In my car, I replaced the torsion bars with shock absorbers for the trunk lid of a VAZ-2121 Niva car. The position of the shock absorbers was selected for a long time (all day) and carefully. I had no idea that the topic would be of interest to a large number of car enthusiasts, so I took only a few photos:

Now you can screw a box of a simple rectangular shape and any (reasonable) volume to the shelf. The lid no longer hits me on the back. The trunk opens smoothly after pressing the button and closes with a little more effort than in the standard version.

VAZ-2115: Shock absorbers instead of torsion bars v.2 (from Maxim)

Maxim sent me photographs of his version of replacing the torsion bars of the trunk lid of a VAZ-2115 car with shock absorbers:

This option is more compact and provides more reliable mounting of shock absorbers on the passenger compartment side. Thank you very much, Maxim

VAZ-2115: Shock absorbers instead of torsion bars v.3 (from Sergey)

Sergey shared with me his own option for replacing the torsion bars of the trunk lid of a VAZ-2115 car with shock absorbers. Unlike the already considered options with two shock absorbers, instead of clamps, Sergey used steel plates ≅ 7 cm long and 3 mm thick, bolted with bolts with a diameter of 8 mm to the hinges of the trunk lid:

This option is not only easier to manufacture, but also much more reliable. Thank you very much, Sergey

VAZ-2115: Installing one shock absorber without removing torsion bars v.1 (from Sergey)

If you don’t need subwoofers, but just want to ensure reliable opening of the trunk lid, be sure to pay attention to the option of installing one shock absorber, proposed by Sergey:

The author of the modification gave the following comments: “The corner near the lantern can be welded or screwed with two bolts (drill two holes near the lantern, insert bolts through the holes of the lantern, insert the corner, and tighten the bolts). This will be better than welding. Self-tapping screws are bullshit, they get torn out over time. It’s better to mount the stop with the rod down, it’s been tested, it’s smoother. The corner on the trunk lid is attached in any way. The stop looks very good, there are no distortions and savings on the stops.” A very interesting option. Thank you very much, Sergey

VAZ-2115: Installing one shock absorber without removing torsion bars v.2 (from Grizzly48)

Another single shock option suggested by Grizzly48. A very serious approach, there is even a video recording of testing:

Thank you very much, Grizzly48

Help (from kodi)

The table below, sent by kodi, will help you choose shock absorbers not only for the VAZ-2115:

Thank you very much, kodi

DIY rear door shock absorber repair

In the vastness of the forum, there are different ways to relieve pressure from the rack before disassembling, but there is not a single detailed one. Write down who does it and how, in detail, so to speak “competitively”, so that later you won’t be offended by the repair you just made, or worse, by a damaged eye.

A thin drill bit and a drill at low speed. True, I was dismantling a shriveled gas strut. Otherwise, the GP from the office chair was understood in the same way. Drill so that the future hole is located above the oil level. If you are afraid for your eyes, put a protective shield cut out of cardboard over the drill. However, I drilled without anything and there was nothing but zilch.

Why be wise? Drilled and pricked with a needle. If it didn’t puncture, I still drilled it. Drill 1-1.5 mm. I used to drill with a 0.25 drill bit, but it's difficult without breaking it. It drills where it is cut. And so, my grandfather sawed such a stand on the balcony, using a file in a circle. Then he told how someone fired a gun at him and showed off the bruise. It’s good that he at least said what he did, otherwise I might have believed it.

Where is the sealing ring located on the rod plug? I ask because it is necessary to maintain the maximum length of the pipe. Where should I drill? Here are two photos:

Honestly, I don't remember. I was drilling a stand that was already leaking, there was a little oil in it, a cube at most. You let it lie down in a horizontal position so that as much oil as possible drains off the top wall. Once the air is released, the oil will no longer flow, it will only ooze. Cover the pipe with rags if you are afraid of getting something dirty, but I don’t think they will be useful. I can’t tell you where to drill - I drilled in the middle, I was just curious what was inside

Yes, they drilled her hole and that’s it. There is no more than a couple of cubes of oil. Don't be afraid of it, while you're drilling it will all flow down. The hole definitely won't have it.

Judging by the photo, the stand is stretched, made of a round coin, like a 12 gram can. This means the walls are a little thicker, but not by much.

Drilled. It turned out “the devil is not so scary.” “The drill was really dull, I didn’t sharpen it, I drilled for about 3 minutes, and at the same time I was watching a movie on TV, when it “bumped” I didn’t even have time to get scared - I was distracted. By the way, the “zilch” is similar to what happens if you hold the fitting of a car pump with your finger, pump and release the fitting, that is, the sound is quite quiet and nothing is splashed with oil. If anyone is interested, after complete disassembly I will post a photo of the giblets, if not necessary, I will destroy the thread.

This shriveled stand (it was easily pressed in) was removed using a dirty but safe method - the rod in the place number “1” was ground off with sandpaper, then it was pressed against the floor with the rod and pressed. I naturally bleed it down the machined rod along with the oil =) well, this was all done in the garage using old rags. I disassembled the next one by FINISHING it with a hacksaw in the place numbered “2”. file the current at one point (and not in a circle.) or it’s even easier to drill with a thin 1mm drill. when it hisses, don’t get scared and don’t throw it away (if it’s in a vice, you can cover it with a rag and step aside. If you’re drilling on the floor, you can put the stand in a thicker pipe, leaving only the tip into which you’ll drill), otherwise it will turn over and splash oil =)

Be sure to use safety glasses.

At one time I drilled into a stud along its axis. A small spritz and a drop of oil. All!

Lada Priora Universal › Logbook › Repair of the gas stop fastening of the trunk lid

The recording will be of interest mainly to owners of a Prior station wagon. I encountered a problem related to replacing the gas stops of the trunk lid, because they don’t hold up at all in cold weather. I arrived at the store like this) I open the trunk lid and see a complex design, instead of the usual 13″ turnkey ends we have here we have a bracket, the ball pin in it is tightly rolled. I took off the stop along with it and went to the store, no, the other one, no. The third time they see it for the first time! although the marking on it is 1119... The difference from the Kalinovsky is that we have this fucking bracket at the end)

Well, after shopping around, I came home and started looking for a solution to the problem. At the prompting of one of the owners of the car, it was decided to remove these very gas stops from the pin) according to him, this will not be difficult for me) Then a donor car turned up for me) with a stock trunk lid, which shot up with a bang, but without these moronic brackets )

I successfully replaced the left side) It turned out that everything was not so difficult) The trunk lid was already confidently held in the open position. But this turned out to be not enough for me, and I began to remove the second stop. Having removed it, I dragged it into the garage, according to the proven scheme, I clamp the bracket in a vice and twist the stand to a bend, trying to remove it from the pin)

What should I do?) I felt a convulsive pounding of something inside me) Realizing that where the hell would I find such brackets, I almost cried and wandered home... “After all, one was enough for me”: I endlessly repeated to myself, why the hell are you second? useful to change?

The next day, having collected my thoughts, I came up with an idea to restore this mechanism. We urgently need a donor, a regular one, a telescopic one! Having written to the local community about searching for this travesty, within 5 minutes Andryukha responded duxact

. And now, I have a donor in my hands, for which I thank you very much Andryukha

We are sawing off the fuck off the remains of the rolled pin, the vice is no longer there, I broke it out of anger last night) when, in my opinion, because of them I broke this bracket) so I screwed it to the body of some kind of welding machine that was standing in my garage)

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Advantages of gas hood shock absorbers

The main problem of the “poker” is its installation, since when installing it you need to know the sequence of many operations. In addition, such an unreliable system constantly tells the driver that the hood is about to fall and cause certain injuries.

This problem mainly concerns foreign-made cars. The fact is that foreign automobile designers are firmly convinced that the driver does not necessarily need to spend a large amount of time under the hood of his car. All he needs to do is periodically check the oil and coolant levels. However, this judgment does not apply in any way to Russian drivers, who are accustomed to doing most of the work themselves.

The inconvenience of the poker is also that it simply gets in the way. The fact is that to fix the hood, the middle point of the engine compartment is used - this is the “TV”. As a result, it turns out that when working under the hood, we constantly touch it with our hands and risk the hood falling directly on our heads.

Another disadvantage of the “poker” is its use in the dark or in a dark garage. In the dark it is quite problematic to find it in the engine compartment. In addition, in addition to the fact that you need to find it, you also need to get into a special fixing hole, which is also not so easy to find. As a result, simply adding antifreeze can become an irritating procedure.

Shock absorbers are a completely different matter. After all, in order to carry out any procedures, you just need to lift the hood with a slight movement of your hands, and then the system itself will bring it to the extreme position and securely fix it at the top. Thus, convenience and reliability are achieved. The same goes for the trunk of a car.

Perhaps the last advantage of gas stops is their design. They fit so technologically under any hood that you get the feeling that the stops are standard devices on your car and perfectly decorate the design of the engine compartment.

How does a trunk gas shock absorber work and why does it fail?

The principle of operation of the trunk lid stop in a car is similar to any other gas shock absorber. In its sealed cavity there are two chambers, separated by a partition with a small hole, filled with compressed gas. It is this that prevents the rapid movement of the rod inside a confined space, slowly passing through the hole.

Gas shock absorbers are quite durable, reliable and less demanding on operating conditions than previously used oil shock absorbers, but even they can fail sooner or later. In the case of trunk stops, this occurs mainly when the seal is destroyed with a subsequent decrease in gas pressure. External damage in the form of deformation of the rod or body is much less common - this usually only occurs as a result of an accident.

Selection of trunk supports for foreign cars from VAZ and UAZ. Characteristics of VAZ stops.

For the attention of everyone who wants to reduce the cost of buying stops, I provide a list of stops for all VAZ and UAZ with the characteristics:

Stops for LADA 4×4 cars
Model 2121-6308010 / 2121-6308015 / 2121-8231010-05 / 2121-8231015-05
Product length, mm in a free state 450 in a compressed state 275 Piston stroke, mm 175 Weight, kg 0.34 Diameter, mm of rod 10 of piston 20 of reservoir 22 Force on rod P, N 260

Stops for LADA SAMARA cars
2108-8231010-05 / 2108-8231015-05 / 2108-6308015
Product length, mm in a free state - 450 in a compressed state - 275 Piston stroke, mm 175 Weight, kg 0.34 Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 tank 22 Force on rod P, N 340

LADA 21213
Model 21213-8231010-05
Product length, mm in a free state 450 in a compressed state 275 Piston stroke, mm 175 Weight, kg 0.34 Diameter, mm of rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22 Force on rod P, N 340

Stops for OKA cars
Model 21213-8231010-05
Product length, mm in a free state 450 in a compressed state 275 Piston stroke, mm 175 Weight, kg 0.34 Diameter, mm of rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22 Force on rod P, N 340

Stops for UAZ Patriot cars
Model 12.8231015-01
Product length, mm in a free state 500 in a compressed state 300 Piston stroke, mm 200 Weight, kg 0.358 Diameter, mm of rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22 Force on rod P, N 250

Stops for UAZ Hunter cars
Model 121.8231015
Product length, mm in a free state 450 in a compressed state 275 Piston stroke, mm 175 Weight, kg 0.330 Diameter, mm of rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22 Force on rod P, N 280

Stops for LADA Kalina cars
Model 1118-8231015
Length of the product, mm in the free state 305 in the compressed state 200 Stroke of the piston, mm 105 Weight, kg 0.23 Diameter, mm of the piston rod 10 20 of the reservoir 22 Force on the rod P, N 415

LADA Priora Station wagon
Model 1119-8231015
Length of the product, mm in the free state 600 in the compressed state 350 Stroke of the piston, mm 250 Weight, kg 0.4 Diameter, mm of the piston rod 10 20 of the reservoir 22 Force on the rod P, N 340

Stops for cars LADA 110-112, LADA 111
Model 2111-8231010 / 2111-8231015
Product length, mm in a free state 600 in a compressed state 350 Piston stroke, mm 250 Weight, kg 0.435 Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22 Force on stock P, N 430

LADA 111
Model 2111-8231010-10 / 2111-8231015-10
Product length, mm in a free state 600 in a compressed state 350 Piston stroke, mm 250 Weight, kg 0.435 Diameter, mm of piston rod 10 20 tank 22 Force on rod P, N 340

LADA 112
Model 2112-8231010 / 2112-8231015
Length of the product, mm in the free state 450 in the compressed state 275 Stroke of the piston, mm 175 Weight, kg 0.32 Diameter, mm of the piston rod 10 20 of the reservoir 22 Force on the rod P, N 460

Moskvich 2141

Cylinder diameter [mm] 19 Lift height [mm] 200 Buoyancy force [N] 400 max. length [mm] 502 Vertical tube diameter [mm] 8

GAZ-2217 - minivan "Sobol Barguzin"

extended length, mm (L1) 678 rod stroke, mm (L2) 290 compressed length, mm 388 compression force, N 700 rod diameter, mm 10 piston diameter, mm 20 reservoir diameter, mm 22 weight, kg 0, 5

Taken from the official SAAZ website and other official sources

Source

Removing the wiper and tuning the doors

External tuning of a VAZ also involves getting rid of some parts. If you plan to completely redesign the body, you must first remove the bumpers. It is advisable to purchase new ones that will be better than the old ones both in the quality of the material and in appearance.

When improving the body, you can also pay attention to the interior of the cabin. Many people prefer to sew noise-insulating material into the inner door trim, which ensures relative silence in the car while driving.

As for the appearance of the doors, more attention should be paid to the handles. Ideally, the old handles are removed and replaced with new ones, which are used in expensive sports cars. But if you don’t have the funds for this, you can simply remove the old handles, putty them and paint them in some unusual color. This will significantly change the appearance of the car, even if the hood and main body color remain the same.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=cy9zmm3kiEw

So, on the VAZ-2112 you can partially do the tuning yourself, but otherwise trust the specialists. It is best to improve a new car, since it will be possible to initially improve the existing characteristics and thereby extend the life of the car.

How to replace a trunk shock absorber on a foreign car - step-by-step instructions

On a 2003 Skoda Octavia, the operation is performed in 15-20 minutes. It is advisable to carry out the installation in the warm season, since in frosty weather the lid closes worse, and there is no way to check the operation of the mechanism.

There are latches on both sides of the shock absorber that hold it in place. First, use a screwdriver to remove the lower retaining ring. In new models, there is no need to remove the locking rings ; the stops simply snap into place.

Then remove the same bracket from above. Lifting the back cover, the stop is pulled out.

Using a flathead or Phillips screwdriver, remove the latch on the new part.

The new shock absorber is first pressed against the upper ball pin and rotated until the element locks into place. The part is then attached to the bottom.

Now the locking rings are put on top and bottom.

The second gas stop is replaced using the same scheme.

Replacing trunk shock absorbers on Renault and Volvo

Hidden installation of shock absorbers is possible in Volvo cars. To simplify the task, when removing the old stops, the brackets do not need to be completely removed. It is enough to pry the fastener with a flat screwdriver. For safety reasons, the trunk door should be supported with a board.

After dismantling, the connection points will have to be wiped from dirt and dust. It is advisable to apply lubricant to metal fasteners. When installing a new stop, bend the holder again, and then carefully put it on the mount. It is important to press the shock absorber from the bottom and then latch it from the top.

You need to make sure that the staples are in place. If one stop is fastened tightly, you can connect the second one in a similar way. Then all that remains is to remove the support and check how the lid closes and opens.

For comparison, the procedure for Renault Megane cars is presented:

1. Place a strong rail as a stop.
2. Carefully pry off the fasteners from the bottom and top, and then remove the part.
3. Place the new shock absorber on the mount.

As you can see, on various models of foreign cars, the dismantling and installation of racks follows the same pattern. Only minor differences in the design of this unit are possible.

Useful video instructions on the topic:

The trunk lid and its weaknesses

Among people living in Russia, there is an opinion that our auto industry creates, to put it mildly, not very high-quality cars. Perhaps this point of view is too biased, but it is an indisputable fact that owners of domestic cars sooner or later have to spend personal funds on car service. You can go into lengthy discussions about how it was before and how it is now, but many VAZ-2115 owners have already encountered a similar problem.

Sometimes a car brings a surprise not in the form of a breakdown of the chassis, transmission or engine, but in the form of a petty and nasty thing called a malfunction of the trunk torsion bars. For those who don't know, a little explanation. Torsion bars are shafts made of elastic material (or metal) that perform the same functions as shock absorbers or springs. The trunk lid in the “tag” is entrusted to be controlled by these devices.

During their service life, torsion bars tend to “loose their grip,” which is why while driving you can hear extraneous sounds and knocking coming from the depths of the trunk of the VAZ-2115. This is especially noticeable when driving over bumps.

Due to insufficient traction, there is an additional load on the lock, and if you do not pay attention to the diagnosis of “little things” in time, you can see in the rearview mirror while driving how the luggage compartment lid copies the movements of a bird’s wing, taking off merrily when the car hits an uneven surface

Rear door stop. Replacement. Review of proposals.

Hello to everyone who came to the light.
One day in the cold winter, I left the house and went to the car.
And while lifting the door using the stops, suddenly a terrible incident happened to him. I’ll start this BZ with such a poetic note. Many owners of hatchbacks are familiar with the disease of the fifth door (trunk lid), the stops (shock absorbers) of which wear out over time and begin to pose a threat to life and health, especially in cold weather. This did not pass me by either. In the bitter cold, I needed to get into the luggage compartment, and when I opened the lid I heard a “zilch”, after which the trunk lid completely stopped holding open.

Having studied the market for rear door stops available in the city, I found several options.

The first copy from the Belarusian company Fenox.
Article Fenox A901005C3
Length (free/compressed/piston stroke): 450/275/175 mm. Force at point P3 = 460N. Price from 510 RUR.

The second hero of the battle from SAAZ
Article number SAAZ 2172-8231015
Length (free/compressed/piston stroke): 450/275/175 mm. Force at point P3 = 480N. Price from 420 RUR

Finwhale was third.

Article number
Finwhale 121023
Length (free/compressed/piston stroke): 450/275/175 mm. Force at point P3 = 360N.

The fourth, and probably the most desirable, was the brother of the second hero - SAAZ 21728-8231015

This emphasis was installed on the Lada Priora Coupe. Article number SAAZ 21728-8231015. Length (free/compressed/piston stroke): 450/275/175 mm. Force at point P3 = 510N.

It is distinguished by increased pressure and increased service life. I had the opportunity to open the trunk of a Priora Coupe - it simply soars into the sky. But alas, the stops are discontinued. This is what they told me in SAAZ technical support regarding replacement and analogues.

As everyone already understood, the choice fell on factory SAAZ stops with the SAAZ number 2172-8231015

I will not describe the replacement, because even schoolchildren in labor lessons will be quite capable of this simple operation. Everything is described in quite detail in the Murzilka. The only thing is that it’s better to start dismantling from the top attachment point (the one on the trunk lid), and install it vice versa from the bottom attachment point.

And now for the most patient and assiduous, a minute of entertaining facts.

— The difference between 21720-8231015-00 and 21720-8231010-00 is only in the hinge pins. In …015 they are absent. — Numbers and letters (5 F, 2 D)

the stops indicate the year and month of production of the part.

Thank you for your attention. I hope it will help someone when choosing door stops. Click “Like”, share with friends, subscribe, write questions in PM. - always happy to chat.

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How to replace a trunk shock absorber on a domestic car

When removing shock absorbers from a car of a Russian automaker, in addition to a screwdriver, a wrench with a diameter of 13 mm is used. The following describes the procedure for Lada Samara cars:

On each side, the trunk lid stops are held in place by two ball-head bolts. These bolts need to be unscrewed.

The bolts at the bottom of the mount are also unscrewed.

Then the new shock absorbers are screwed in exactly the same way. Those with a hydraulic mechanism are screwed with the rod down. If the machine did not previously have stops, you will have to drill holes for the bolts. There will be a gap at the bottom at the connection point. Therefore, it is advisable to install a washer that will press the bolt.

Videos with step-by-step instructions:

About the gas struts of the trunk/hood

As soon as the prior came to me, the heavy trunk lid, or rather the effort expended on lifting it, strained me.
Well, if only the stops were the same, they have served faithfully for 10 years and are still holding up. Having looked through the drive, I decided to order stops from 12 wheels (they have 460N versus 380N of Priorov’s) I took Hofer (HF522204) the price is the most normal quality, but we’ll find out how long it will last. Upon replacement, I removed and installed nothing unusual.

When I decided to change the stops in the garage, I came across a stop in the package, but it turned out to be only 260N, which is very small for a Priora trunk, and this gave me an idea. Why not make hood stops, because the same 12s had them, but the Priore was already clamped. After googling, I ordered another stop and tried to do it like everything else with a furniture corner and drilling holes in the wing shelves. But like everyone else, it turned out that he rubs glasses, although he took thin stops as recommended. Therefore, I made homemade fasteners from a 25x25 corner piece. Everyone writes that you need to take the Fenox A901001, but at the time of purchase, it was not justifiably more expensive than other analogues, so I took the Hofer HF522201. Outwardly they turned out to be identical and I didn’t notice much of a difference.

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Preparatory activities

To repair the bottom with your own hands, you first need to prepare in a certain way. You will need a set of tools, premises, a lot of time, experience and desire to do such things.

Of the tools, it is especially important to prepare the following components:

• Welding machine. In the case of repairing the underbody of a car, it is better to use a semi-automatic machine with wire and carbon dioxide. It is better, more efficient and more reliable than gas and electrodes;
• Angle grinder. It will be useful, if necessary, to remove rust from the floor, to adjust elements and patches, to clean seams and surfaces;
• Car stands. Here you can use various items. So look for what you have;
• The rest of the kit is standard and includes such components as anti-corrosion solution, mastic for seams, welding wire, sandpaper, primer, soundproofing sheets, paint, etc.

Now you need to drive the car into the garage or other equipment room and put it on stands.

The machine should be positioned in such a way that it is comfortable and safe to work under it.

Disconnect the battery, then remove the doors. In this case, experts advise providing spacers for doorways in order to maintain body rigidity and the necessary geometry.

Dismantling the interior

Since you need to repair the underbody not only under the car, but also from the inside, you will have to completely disassemble the interior. This is a difficult task that will take a lot of time. Be psychologically prepared for this. You will have to dismantle:

• Armchairs;
• Floor tunnel lining;
• Carpeting;
• Air ducts;
• Soundproofing layer.

Carefully collect all the wiring, combine it into bundles if they are not collected, so that later there will be no problems with assembly. Collect all the fasteners, distribute them into boxes or bags, label them

This is extremely important because you may end up with serious problems later.

If you plan to completely replace the bottom or weld a panel to the floor, then the dashboard and beard will have to be removed to create open access to the engine shield.

Lifting a car

Welding

So, you have disassembled your VAZ 2110, so now you can really assess the condition of the bottom, as well as analyze the required amount of work. The most optimal situation is one that does not require replacement of elements. The rust spots are cleaned until high-quality metal is obtained, after which they are strengthened by patches. But not everyone manages to face such a situation.

If the holes in the bottom turn out to be through, this will lead to a loss of body rigidity, therefore it is strongly recommended to replace the element completely. In the case of the VAZ 2110, the following body elements are distinguished:

• Floor panels;
• Support platforms;
• Threshold extensions;
• Spar extensions;
• Crossbar;
• Connectors.

Now let's discuss a few basic nuances of welding.

To replace a part that has “slipped” due to corrosion, it must be drilled out at the welded points or simply cut off using a grinder. Do not forget that the brake and fuel system pipelines pass under the bottom. It is extremely difficult to dismantle them, so the easiest way is to cut them off and install new pipeline elements during reassembly. If the floor panels are in critical condition, the entire bottom assembly should be replaced. But in this case, be sure to dismantle the exhaust system. If it is necessary to change the thresholds, they are dismantled and new ones are installed one by one

It is important to control the geometry. If the floor and thresholds are being replaced at the same time, the thresholds are replaced first, and only then the floor panels. Carefully mark the elements for welding. The old components must strictly correspond to the new ones being cut out. You cannot do without an assistant, so agree in advance with someone who can help you. Always start the bottom from the bottom, then grab it. Do not do basic welding with a continuous seam

Maintain a step of approximately 4-5 centimeters.

When welding work is completed, be sure to carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

How to replace a hood shock absorber

If the part is not original and does not match the cross-number, then you can verify its compliance by measuring the length of the stop in the open and closed state. But this is not enough, all springs have different forces.

You can mistakenly purchase a part that will not be able to lift a heavy hood even in summer (the hardest time for compressed gas is winter with its low temperatures) or, on the contrary, the lid will tear from your hands, deform and resist when closing. The lock may also jam.

The replacement process itself will not be a problem. Fastening elements are easy to access, clear and intuitive. The old stop is removed, the cover is propped up, after which the upper and lower fastenings of the new one are screwed on sequentially.

It is better to work with an assistant, since the new stops are very tight, it will be inconvenient to hold the rod and rotate the fastening screw at the same time.

Adjusting the gaps between the hood and wings of the VAZ 2114

Open and place the hood on the stop. Loosen the bolts securing it to the hinges. There are two of them on each side. After this, we cover the hood and install it so that the gaps between the wings and the hood are equal on both the right and left sides. Now carefully lift the hood and thoroughly tighten the fastening bolts.

The height of the buffers can be adjusted by turning them in or out. Having completed all these operations, you need to make sure that the hood now opens easily and closes securely with the lock. If the closure does not close securely or there are other problems with closing, the hood latch must be adjusted.

What are gas struts (shock absorbers) of the hood and trunk?

Gas struts are shock absorbers designed to soften the closure and hold the hood or trunk during repair or maintenance. Their main advantage over a conventional restraint device, popularly known as a “poker,” is their reliability, since the “poker” loses its properties during long-term use and allows the hood to hit the back.

If you decide to install these devices, then you need to familiarize yourself with a number of nuances when choosing shock absorbers that will help you avoid many problems with the use of gas struts:

• If you do not want the shock absorber to start leaking at low temperatures, it is important to preheat the engine before each opening of the hood. Neglecting this rule will lead to rapid failure of the gas stop.
• The number of stops must be at least two. This is due to the fact that many hoods have special vibration insulation, and therefore their weight becomes quite high. This suggests the conclusion that one shock absorber will not be enough.
• Before installing the device, you need to determine its length. If you select this value incorrectly, you may encounter many difficulties associated with the installation and operation of gas stops.
• As for the thickness of the gas stops, the thicker they are, the better they perform their functions related to supporting and opening the hood and trunk.
• Try to choose only high-quality products that are pre-coated with a special chemical component. The fact is that the most ordinary shock absorbers will be heavily influenced by corrosion and will quickly fail.

Replacing torsion bars on a VAZ 2115

You can simply replace the torsion bars with your own hands, without having to drill holes in the body or buy a gas stop. Standard tools such as a wrench and a screwdriver are required. Just two hours and you will have well-tightened trunk torsion bars, or new ones installed. You will need a protective board on the glass to remove the torsion bars. Any wooden board will do for this. Wooden blocks are also needed to secure the trunk in the upper position. Now you can safely replace the torsion bars. There's no need to remove the rear window or worry about the trunk lid falling off at the worst possible time.

The trunk lid of the VAZ-2115 causes a lot of disappointments for owners who have a good car. But over time, we learned to solve the problem, and we will try to outline all the features of this part of the car.

Types of car stops

Despite all the theoretical simplicity of the gas stop, it is structurally a complex device with a carefully designed filling.

In addition to the actual force on the rod, the spring must provide damping for the rapid movement of the rod in order to avoid shocks in extreme positions and smoothly move the cover between them. This is where additional shock-absorbing properties are required. The design of the gas strut will become even closer to the suspension strut.

Gas

The simplest stops contain oil, but it only serves to lubricate the seals. The gas is sealed by a piston with cuffs, and the damping of the rod stroke is purely pneumatic, due to the bypass of gas through the piston.

Oily

By definition, pure oil stops do not exist, because this is a gas spring. Liquid springs are used in some applications, but this has nothing to do with automobiles. The liquid compresses to a very limited extent, so using this effect in the trunk lid stop is difficult and irrational.

The concept of oil stops most likely came from the technology of suspension shock absorbers, where only oil is actually used, and there is no elastic element.

Gas-oil

The most common design of automotive gas springs as stops for the trunk and hood. An additional oil chamber is located between the rod piston and the seal, which improves the tightness of the high-pressure air chamber and provides gentle damping at the end of the rod stroke.