Why does it hit the steering wheel when braking on a VAZ-2112: causes and diagnostics

I have a relatively new VAZ-2110. When braking at a speed of approximately 100 km/h, quite noticeable vibrations appear on the steering wheel. What causes them and how to eliminate this unpleasant phenomenon?

Alexander Mironov, Nizhny Novgorod

It would not have been easy to recognize the causes of this disease in garage conditions if the owners of VAZ 10s, based on their bitter experience, had not made an accurate diagnosis for it, and the garage telegraph had not notified newcomers that the dog was buried not in the steering, but in the brakes.

Diagnosis and medications

How is this disease treated? Those who are inclined to believe in miracles install new brake pads. In very rare cases, if the disease has not gone too far, this helps, but in most cases it is a waste of time and money (unless, of course, the old pads have been asking for replacement for a long time). It's like trying to get rid of a severe sore throat by sucking on mints.

Recommendations from garage “attending doctors”: you need to replace the brake discs with new ones. The recipe for those who have used this “medicine” more than once: install only imported discs, because our new discs, especially those purchased on the market, can have more runout than the old ones installed on the assembly line, and the metal of domestic brake discs is often “raw” ”, easily amenable to “grinding” with brake pads and a mixture of road dust and sand.

OK then. We spent some money and installed the best imported wheels from a serious Western manufacturer. The result is fifty-fifty. Why? Yes, because the “illness” can sit even deeper in the body.

Case Study

So, “patient”: VAZ-2112, mileage 55 thousand km. Complaints: steering wheel shakes when braking at high speed. Preventive measures: the chassis and controls were checked, the left steering tip was replaced, the wheels were balanced. Treatment: replacement or grooving of brake discs.

He didn’t write out a prescription for buying new brake discs for the “patient”: he had to pay for it himself, and because of the presence of a powerful 16-valve engine, his discs were ventilated, which means they weren’t cheap. I decided to resort to surgical intervention - to sharpen the discs, their thickness is still acceptable, but it’s up to the turner to decide.

Attention: turning brake discs is a job that requires high qualifications, so trust it only to a highly qualified turner! The visible roughness of the working surfaces after grooving is not scary. The turner sharpened the discs, fortunately for me, the thickness of the discs was enough (let me remind you that the VAZ “tenth” family has a minimum permissible thickness of a ventilated disc - 17.8 mm, and a non-ventilated one - 10.8 mm).

Together with the turner we put the disks in place. They installed one. The mood is great. All that remains is to secure the caliper and install the wheel, but some worm is gnawing. I listened to my inner voice - it asks not to install the wheel, but to check the disc runout. No, this is necessary, you doubt the master’s qualifications?! Yes, these wheels from his hands are better than the new factory ones. And he presses his point: maybe there’s something else wrong there.

In short, we checked: the runout of the working surface of the disk is twenty-five hundredths! These are the times. Although the plant allows a larger value - fifteen hundred parts, why would I need such a noticeable beat on a fast car - look how the indicator needle jumps!

What's the matter? The bearing has nothing to do with it, we checked it. We remove the disk and measure the hub runout. Nightmare, eighteen hundred square meters are “walking”! That's it, we've arrived. Hello to VAZ and its suppliers.

The mood is at zero, but soon a rather bold thought comes: is it possible to grind the hub on the spot, like a part clamped in the chuck of a lathe, if the revolutions required for turning work are enough, of course? Turner: why can’t we, let’s try, but I can’t vouch for the result, this is the first time. In general, the subtext is this: if you are ready to experiment on your car, then please, but without a guarantee.

I give the good, but what, exactly, do I have to lose? One hell of a lot, this factory “gift” needs to be changed or sharpened, and to do this the hub must be pressed out, then pressed in (and this is a difficult task in garage conditions), a new bearing must be bought - but where is the guarantee that it is of high quality? Let’s experiment, I say: for you it’s experience, for me it’s a chance to get by with little blood, and it’s interesting, in the end, how the whole thing will end.

Steering wheel wobble when braking

Problem: Steering wheel wobble when braking.
With the new one it was fine. Then it gradually appeared and grew to the point of indecency. Replaced the discs and front pads (BREMBO discs, RONA pads).

I drove fine for about two hundred kilometers, then again the beats gradually returned to their previous values.

Well, I think the pads are “left-handed”. I installed LUKAS, and everything happened again - perfect for about 200 kilometers, then the beat gradually increases.

Maybe calipers? I don’t know how to “by eye” determine if it’s substandard, but even at TO1 the master said that my right one was “left” and replaced it under warranty.

Steering wheel wobble when braking is not always due to discs, bad surrots or pads. Sometimes you also need to check the springs in the return mechanism, otherwise they may be weakened or broken. Or maybe it was just dirt, because the anthers are torn. This may also explain why after changing the pads everything became better - during the change they “cracked” you, but now they are starting to stick again.

Look at the hubs. It's easy to check, hang the wheel (preferably not on a standard jack), remove the wheel, start it, maybe in 2nd or 3rd gear, lean a screwdriver against the caliper so that it is perpendicular to the working surface of the brake disc. You look to see if there is a runout or not, if there is a runout, throw out the brake. disk, and in approximately the same way you look at the runout of the hub, if there is a runout along with the disk, you throw out the hub, buy a new bearing, hub, and a good brake. disk. If the hub does not hit, you just need to throw out the brake. disc or sharpen. Just in case, you do the same for the other wheel if you notice the runout right away.

It’s a good idea to install Bendix pads, don’t brake too much and go straight to the car wash or into a deep puddle.

I had the same thing, cured it with this method. Good luck!

I had such garbage until 18 thousand km. The steering wheel bounced very strongly when braking at a speed of more than 100 km/h. Until I replaced the front pads with STS, I’ve already been driving for 4 thousand km. everything is fine, but for this situation this is probably not a recipe, but for general development.

But in any case, when making repairs, follow the rule: From simple to complex.

I don’t have my own experience in this area, so don’t beat me. Having read the conference, I asked a friend of the master. And the answer was that the reason for the steering wheel beating WHEN BRAKING could be the egg-shaped brake drums of the rear wheels. Wow!

Yes, by the way, a small clarification:

Strong beating during braking is not always observed, but only in a narrow speed range, somewhere in the region of 55-65 km/h.

It turns out that these are clearly RESONANT vibrations of some elements of the brake system, and maybe the entire chassis. Friends, tell me, what can resonate so much?

(I’ll try to replace the rear drums in the near future. I’ll let you know the results if you’re interested).

I had it in different ranges, 50-70, 100-120, and when braking to a complete stop, but by 20 thousand miles it even became scary to drive, it was so loud that the steering wheel was torn out of my hands.

After sharpening the discs and replacing the pads on the Transmaster, I drove 5 thousand, sometimes it knocks, but I sin more on the connector. The steering tips are worn out, but there are practically no marks on the discs.

If you are confident in the discs (reliable manufacturer, and you haven’t overheated them yourself), then see the front hubs. The first time after replacing the disks, most likely, in contrast, you simply did not notice the crime behind them, but now you have gotten used to normal disks and felt smaller vibrations. Try turning the brake first. discs (one at a time, with subsequent control) on the hubs 180 degrees, it won’t help - look for normal hubs. I would also replace the drive assembly with CV joints with branded ones (about 200 bucks is a pleasure, but ours suck!).

Still, here's how to do it:

1. Runout of the car body when braking - grooving or replacing the brake drums, preferably together with the pads.

2. Beating of the steering wheel and (or) pedals when braking - re-grooving or replacing brake discs (with imported ones), along with pads.

Pads

Next, we inspect the brake system, namely the pads. Since the steering wheel controls the front wheels, we look at the condition of the pads on them. Why does the steering wheel vibrate when braking in this case? The pads wear out a lot. The friction material wears down to the linings, and then the metal part rubs against the disc. As a result, the steering wheel vibrates when braking.

The VAZ-2110 is equipped with a reliable braking system, but it may also require repairs if consumables are not replaced in a timely manner. The pads need to be changed every 20-25 thousand kilometers. If you have an aggressive driving style, divide this figure by 2. After installing new pads, run it in - brake smoothly and without jerking for 200 kilometers. This is necessary so that the new material gets used to the working surface. Remember that the front pads wear out several times more often than the rear ones.

Wear can be determined by the grooves: when the pads have worn down to them, they need to be replaced. Well, if the friction material has worn down to the metal linings, urgently buy pads, since during the next braking the caliper may simply jam and the car will skid. The replacement is also indicated by a characteristic creaking noise when braking. Sometimes this happens due to poor friction material or when water gets on its surface. After washing the car, thoroughly dry the brakes by briefly pressing the pedal.

The steering wheel hits when braking VAZ 2110

Why does the steering wheel of a VAZ-2110 shake when braking? The main causes of steering wheel vibration when pressing the brake from speeds of 80 km/h or less on Russian cars.

This phenomenon is unpleasant, and completely deprives you of confidence in control over the car, because the next potential step is an unequal distribution of braking forces, which can provoke a U-turn or overturn of the car, or even “loss of brakes.”

Discs

The most common cause of steering wheel wobble on the “ten” and all VAZ cars is brake discs. They may even be new, but from the factory have deviations in geometry, hence the problems. It is almost impossible to check this visually when purchasing; you need to either look for branded spare parts, or try different batches, try to find disks from older cars.

If the brake discs are crooked, it can hit not only the steering wheel, but also the brake pedal. But with severe wear, vibration usually goes mainly to the steering wheel. Naturally, when replacing discs, you should immediately change the pads and check the calipers; there should be no play or varying degrees of fit.

In principle, approximately 85% of runout cases occur in the discs and brake mechanism. It’s also worth checking all the caliper fastening units, maybe a bolt has been cut off somewhere or has become unscrewed.

The brake discs have wear, but it is small; when opening the drums, everything seems to be in order.

The reason is most likely in the rear brake drums. You can’t determine anything visually. Put it in a lathe and you will be surprised what an ellipse it is. Advice: Buy new rear brake drums and immediately take them to a turner, believe me, the new ones are also crooked. Remove the front brake discs and also take them to a turner. If the wear is not very great, he will sharpen them. If the wear is great, then go to the store and buy new ones, and again to the turner. After the groove, put it on and that’s it, nothing else will vibrate under your foot. Verified.

Wheels and chassis

The VAZ-2110 and the entire family, due to front-wheel drive, experience increased load on the front wheels. It is imperative to do balancing, as well as check the condition of the nuts, hub, and the chassis as a whole.

Quite often the wheel itself hits when braking. And not because of balancing, but because of broken bolts and holes. You can try to remove the wheel, move it one bolt forward in a circle, and check the result. Some people wrap one turn of electrical tape, this helps at least diagnose the problem. If the problem disappears for a short time, then the problem is with the disks and fasteners.

Steering rods, steering knuckles, ball joints, levers - all this needs to be tugged on the lift to check for play. Again, when driving, you should carefully listen to the operation of the suspension on turns or bumps. After the trip, check the same hubs by hand for heating.

In principle, the VAZ-2110 is such a car that if there is no steering wheel beat at speeds up to 90 km/h, then this is normal. Driving it at a higher speed is in any case dangerous, even if the chassis is in perfect condition - the issue here is the quality of the parts and the generally weak strength of the car.

Cardan transmission

On many cars there is a small universal joint in the steering column. It also needs to be examined. You can get to it by removing the protective casing of the column. The element is located in the place where it enters the body. If the cardan shaft is loose, there is wear on it. After replacing this element, the steering wheel no longer vibrates when braking. This does not happen often, but such a malfunction cannot be ruled out.

Why does it hit the steering wheel?

The reason for vibration or shock in the steering wheel may be that the steering rod joints and the mechanism itself have failed. There are also often situations when the whole reason lies in the wheels of the car. To figure this out, you should follow the rules below.

Diagnostics of brake discs and pads

Grooves and wear are visible, but you won’t be able to see that the disc has moved.

In most cases, “crooked” brake discs are to blame. People say that they were “led.” You can try to assess the condition of the disks visually, or you can use special diagnostic equipment. It will measure vibration and give an accurate verdict on the condition of the brake system and the need to replace the brake discs.

Now it’s better, but before there were a lot of fakes, and you could run into “crooked” disks even with a new part

Suspension diagnostics

When there is vibration in the steering wheel, the following actions should be taken:

1. Turn the steering wheel to the right all the way. In this position of the wheels, it becomes possible to access the traction joints.
2. You should check the rubber cover on the hinge. It must not be damaged. In this case, it may be necessary to replace it.

Checking the condition of the boot on the steering tip

Important! There is no need to tighten the nut that secures the mechanism to the base of the body too much . This can lead to broken studs, which are quite difficult to replace on your own. The tightening should be 16-19 Nm .

Inspection of tie rod connections

Diagnostics of the tie rod connection to the steering rack

Also, attention should be paid to those places where the rack rods and steering rods are connected . If there are gaps in them, they will need to be eliminated. If this is not done, then the steering tips will soon have to be changed. Faulty tips create an increased load on the steering rack and can cause it to fail prematurely.

Important! When the tie rod end is changed, the wheel camber/toe angle can be disrupted. Therefore, after the event, you will need to visit a service station, where this indicator will need to be brought back to normal. You won't be able to set this angle on your own.

If the inspection does not reveal the reasons why the steering wheel is beating, then the reason may be in the wheels. They may have a hernia or lack balance.

Hernia on the wheel

In this case, the tires must be changed and balanced at a service station.

Steering rods

If there are vibrations, inspect the steering linkages. When the tips wear out and wear out, these elements begin to vibrate during braking. How to check them? For this you will need an assistant. He must hold the steering wheel firmly. At this time, you pull the steering rods from side to side (with the car jacked up). There should be no backlash.

If there is free play, this rod must be replaced. Another sign of a faulty element is poor vehicle handling. The steering wheel becomes sluggish. After replacing the steering rods, be sure to normalize the wheel alignment to prevent uneven tire wear.

conclusions

Knowing these points, the owner can independently identify the reasons why the steering wheel of his VAZ-2112 car occurs when braking or at speed. If you cannot identify the reasons yourself, you should contact a service station. Operating a car with such a malfunction is dangerous!

Usually, beating when braking indicates poor condition of the brake discs and driving style. The brakes overheat - the discs warp. that's all. And it would be a good idea to check the condition of the steering linkage. It’s better to replace the discs; you don’t have to try to sharpen them or somehow “farm” them.

If it beats, then this is a signal from the machine that something is wrong. Essentially, these are imbalances and in this case it is the pads that are the problem.

And if the pads and brake discs are new, and the alignment is done. And still, at high speed with smooth braking, there is a beating in the steering wheel. What could this be? And by the way, the steering rack is also tightened, the wheel balancing is normal. What could it be? There is a person who knows what could be the cause of the malfunction.

everything is in order of queue; 1 tires, wheels. 2 brake discs, pads. 3 steering rack, rods. 4 ball. 5 silent blocks in a circle (crab, saber). 6 wheel bearing.

It was also beating. VAZ 12. I changed the drive assembly with grenades, I changed the disks 2 times in a year. The other day I changed the hub bearing, there was no noise, but I didn’t like it. It got hotter and the wheel spun worse when suspended. It became much better. I’ll change the steering ends in an hour and do the alignment. 1 is out of order. A lot also depends on this.

new discs and pads! It hits when braking at a speed of 60 -70 what is the reason.

I had an internal joint on 10k, and it didn’t even crunch, but it’s easy to check by pulling it from the pit

To be honest, in the worst cases, the beating when braking, especially at high speed, is the wheels if it hits the steering wheel, and if it hits the brake pedal, then look at the rear drums or pads..

90% of the beating in the steering wheel is the rack, I replaced it with a used one. and the beating began too.

Wheel balancing

If your steering wheel vibrates when braking at speed, the first thing to blame is the drive wheels. They may be loose or out of balance. Check the presence of weights on the disk - if one of them falls off, the problem can be solved with one visit to the tire shop. You cannot perform this operation yourself. And it’s inexpensive, so first we pay attention to balancing. It happens that the weights remain in place, but the disk is bent when it hits a hole. In this case, repair will help. In the case of stamped products, they can be aligned without welding.

Vibration or shaking of the steering wheel when braking - what could be the reasons?

Vibration in the steering wheel, brake pedal or throughout the car can begin for a number of different reasons, such as broken engine mount brackets, bent wheel rims, poorly balanced wheels, worn CV joints and a number of other reasons. But none of these car problems would cause vibration in the steering wheel only when braking. Vibration or shaking of the steering wheel when braking on disc brakes is almost always only due to deformed brake discs.

The steering wheel, brake pedal, or vibration due to deformation of the brake discs

First of all, what is a brake disc? It is also called a brake rotor. This is that part of your car's chassis system that rotates with the wheel (the wheel is directly attached to the brake disc) and which is clamped by the brake pads when you want to stop the car. In other words, the brake disc is a very important part of the car.

In the picture, an auto mechanic is pressing real brake pads onto a brake rotor. In fact, this work is done by the caliper

Why the deformation of the brake disc may cause vibration or beating on the steering wheel is easier to find out by understanding the principle of operation of the disc. Brake rotors are typically made of metal and come in a specific width depending on the make and model of your car. When applying the brakes, the pads are strongly pressed against the disc, creating enormous pressure and frictional force, causing the brake disc to become very hot. This heating provokes a slight change in the density of the metal of the disk, and this disk should cool evenly over its entire surface. However, this does not always happen, and when a brake disc cools suddenly and unevenly, it tends to warp in certain areas. This deformation takes on a wavy shape. It turns out that when brake pads clamp a deformed disc at high speeds, this disc causes the entire caliper to vibrate left and right, and with it the entire wheel, transmitting vibration to the steering wheel or the entire car.

How exactly an overheated brake disc is cooled sharply, we think, is not necessary to say. Note that the reason for this may be a puddle or snow after prolonged braking.

When the disk is deformed in this way, they say “the disk has led.” Since this happens after the brake disc overheats, usually the second symptom, if the reason that the steering wheel is shaking or vibration appears, is precisely the deformation of the disc - this is a bluish tint, which also appears due to overheating.

If you have the first suspect, then you can check the disk deformation quite simply - lift the suspected wheel on a jack so that it rotates freely (and is not blocked by either the brake or the gearbox - just so that the car does not roll). Next, spin the wheel by weight - it should spin freely. If the wheel rotates normally and easily for part of the described circle, and then stops or slows down significantly, moreover, at the same point, then, most likely, the brake rotor on this wheel has spun.

You can more reliably check whether the brake disc is vibrating in front or behind you by braking with the handbrake - if vibration also appears during such braking, then most likely the reason is in one of the rear rotors.

If the brake disc on the front wheels starts to slip, you will feel that it is the steering wheel that is hitting the steering wheel when braking. And if it’s on one of the rear wheels, then you may not notice the vibration at all, although in cases where the disc has moved quite strongly, the vibration during braking is noticeable at high speeds. But the vibration of the brake pedal will not reliably show which of the rotors has started.

What to do? The reason that the disc started to slip may not be the fact of hypothermia itself, although if you drove down a hill with the brakes on for a long time, and then drove into a puddle or drove through loose snow, then this case can be called the reason. But often it is overheating of the brake disc, and not its cooling, that causes deformation. And it overheats due to a jammed caliper - when the pads are constantly pressed against the disc, preventing the wheel from spinning freely and causing excessive heating. And in this case, it is necessary to eliminate the root cause of overheating.

If the brake disc fails, it can be replaced. It is quite expensive - depending on the car model, the price of a brake disc can range from 2 to 10-15 thousand rubles. But you can also bore it - this is a fairly simple procedure that is carried out in car services, without even removing it from the car. Boring consists of grinding the waves down to a completely flat surface of the disk.

Brake disc boring work

But on drum brakes, drums, similar to the rotor on disc brakes, are rarely deformed due to overheating or hypothermia after overheating.

Steering wheel shakes or vibrates after replacing a brake disc, hub or wheel bearing

But if the beating on the steering wheel or throughout the car was preceded by service work on the chassis of the car, then the root cause should be looked for first here. Most often, vibration when braking can appear after replacing the brake disc, hub or wheel bearing. And the specific cause of vibration and beating can be not only in these defective parts (although more often in them), but also in poor quality work. The brake rotor may have been tightened incorrectly, over-tightened, or not tightened crosswise. The torque to which the brake rotor must be tightened is usually indicated on the disc itself.

If vibration of the steering wheel during braking or the entire car appeared precisely after any work carried out on the chassis, then contact the same mechanic who carried out this work with the problem.

Steering wheel shaking or vibration due to a cracked brake disc or drum

Perhaps the worst thing that can cause vibration is a cracked brake disc or drum in drum brakes. This usually also happens due to overheating or strong mechanical stress on them. Usually this happens rarely and only on worn (thinned) brake rotors or rusted drums.

Crack on the brake disc

Could the vibration be caused by the pads?

Despite the fact that poor-quality or worn pads appear quite often as a possible root cause of vibration in a car or beating in the steering wheel, in our opinion, they cannot in any way cause vibration in the steering wheel or the entire car when braking. This is not a moving part and there cannot be cyclical operation in it, therefore, with a smooth brake disc, the pads and caliper cannot cause such vibration.

What else can cause beating or vibration when braking, but quite rarely:

• problems in the steering rack or worn out ball joints in the chassis;
• worn and improperly functioning shock absorbers (here vibration appears more often when turning in the direction opposite to the side with a worn shock absorber);
• worn or rotted shock absorber strut mounts;
• strong side impacts on curbs during accidents, etc. (usually deformation of the brake system is preceded by deformation of the wheel disc);
• steering tips.

Is it possible to ignore the vibration and beating of the steering wheel when braking, if it does not interfere much?

If your steering wheel shakes when braking or the whole car vibrates, then it is still better to contact a mechanic. But the problem can be ignored for some time - months or even years. But you need to keep in mind that if the problem is caused by improperly tightening the nuts, then it can be quite dangerous. In addition, vibration of the discs puts an increased load on other elements of the chassis - the same hub, shock absorbers, steering system, and this is more serious and expensive.

But vibration on the steering wheel when braking at high speed is also unsafe. In fact, you can easily lose control of your car if the vibration is strong enough. Driving is already one of the most dangerous things we do every day, so saving money on fixing a wobble in your steering wheel shouldn't be a reason to increase that danger. Plus, very few of us can avoid looking funny while gripping a shaky steering wheel—remember that when you're driving your girlfriend on a first date or just giving a ride to a stranger. Believe me, a strongly vibrating steering wheel and no less strongly vibrating hands on it are very noticeable from the outside.

avtoexperts.ru

Even if car enthusiasts react quite nervously to such common phenomena as the rattling of glass and plastic inside a car, vibration of the steering wheel can put almost every driver in a mental hospital - this is a very annoying and unpleasant process. Jokes aside, vibrations on the steering wheel are a very serious problem. Today we will find out the reasons for its occurrence and tell you how to cope with this disaster.

Causes of vibrations on the steering wheel

As a rule, vibrations in the steering wheel appear under various conditions: when the car is moving at different speeds, braking, or when the car is stationary and its engine is idling. If the beating of the steering wheel has become annoying, you need to determine in what circumstances it manifests itself, and depending on this, diagnose the cause.

Steering wheel wobble when the car is stationary

Vibrations in this case can occur for two reasons: due to loose engine mounts or due to problems with the steering rack drive shaft. In the first option, when the engine is idling, the steering wheel hits quite hard. Such vibrations appear on cars with high mileage: either the mountings of the power unit have become loose over time, or the engine was not installed properly after a major overhaul. If even at low speeds a significant beating of the steering wheel is felt, then as the speed increases, the vibrations increase and driving such a car becomes not only uncomfortable, but also unsafe.

The second option: the occurrence of vibrations at idle speed in a stationary car can be caused by wear of the splined part of the steering rack drive shaft or deformation of the shaft itself. With this option, the steering wheel runout may also increase when the car moves.

You cannot drive with such vibrations for a long time because it can lead to destruction of the steering mechanism elements, and, as a result, loss of control of the car - an accident.

Steering wheel vibration when driving at different speeds

Here there are more factors causing vibrations, and they are mainly related to the condition of the wheels.

Firstly, steering wheel beating can occur due to the fact that the wheel rims become clogged with snow or dirt, which leads to imbalance of the wheels and, as a result, the appearance of those same annoying vibrations. In this case, the steering wheel only shakes at low speeds, and when the speed increases, the vibrations disappear completely.

Secondly, steering wheel vibrations can occur at medium (no more than 60 km/h) and high speeds if the wheels were not properly balanced during a seasonal tire change or after tire repair.

In this case, the masses of the wheels become different; when the speed increases, the centrifugal forces of such wheels differ, which is why the steering wheel wobbles. You can’t drive with unbalanced wheels for a long time - in addition to driving discomfort, you can ruin the tires (uneven wear) or, more seriously, damage the suspension elements (in this case, the hub bearings suffer the most).

Thirdly, steering wheel beating can be caused by deformation of the wheel rims (most often steel wheels are susceptible to this). Most often, vibrations in this case occur after the car has crashed into a pothole with one or even two wheels. It happens that a deformed wheel rim is sold to you in a store or market - this is a manufacturing defect. It is not always possible to determine by eye whether crooked rims are the cause of vibrations on the steering wheel - often this bends the inner part of the rim, not the outer one.

You can diagnose this reason by removing the wheels yourself, or by contacting the nearest tire shop.

Fourthly, steering wheel vibration may occur if the holes in the wheel rim do not match the diameter of the bolts on the wheel hub. This manifests itself when non-original rims are installed on the car. In this case, the disc begins to “jump” on the hub, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the steering wheel. The higher the speed, the more the steering wheel vibrates.

Fifthly, steering “fever” occurs due to tire defects. This includes deformation of the cord or sidewall of the tire, which can be caused by manufacturing defects or improper use of the rubber (driving on roads with potholes).

The sixth reason for vibration at speed is uneven tire pressure. Due to the fact that there are different pressures in the wheels on the same axle, the steering wheel begins to shake even at low speeds.

Another cause of vibration in the steering wheel, which can occur at medium and high speeds, is unevenly tightened or loose wheel bolts. In the first case, due to the fact that the bolts are tightened with different forces, a misalignment occurs when the wheel rotates. The greater its centrifugal force, the stronger the distortion and the more noticeable the beating of the steering wheel. In the second case, if the bolts are loosened, the wheel begins to “jump” on the hub, generating vibrations that radiate into the steering wheel.

Finally, worn-out suspension or steering components can lead to vibrations in the steering wheel. Wear of these parts leads to the appearance of backlashes of various sizes, and the larger they are, the more severely the steering wheel hits at speed. In this case, the appearance of vibrations on the steering wheel serves as a signal to check the suspension or steering elements. For example, vibration in the steering wheel may occur when cornering. Worn constant velocity joints (CV joints) or failed silent blocks of the front arms are to blame for this. And if the steering wheel shakes when driving over bumps, we risk breaking the steering rack bushings.

Steering noise when braking on a VAZ 2110

Owners of new VAZ 2110 cars quite often ask the question: “Why do noticeable and very unpleasant vibrations in the steering wheel occur when trying to brake at a speed of about 100 km/h?” Drivers of the "ten" want to know about the reasons that lead to such an unexpected reaction of the car, as well as ways to eliminate this phenomenon.

It is quite difficult to identify the cause of such abnormal behavior of a car in a garage, but experienced drivers, through trial and error, were able to find out that the reason for this phenomenon lies not in the steering, but in the braking system.

Diagnosis of the malfunction and methods for its elimination

How to fix a problem like this? Drivers who believe that this defect is caused by defective parts of the brake system replace them. However, this approach is not always effective. Replacing spare parts does not help for long, so installing new parts to replace existing ones is a waste of money and time. Replacing supposedly defective parts is reminiscent of a situation where a patient with a severe cold tries to recover with just hot tea.

Experienced drivers recommend replacing all brake discs with new ones, and the new discs must be imported. The fact is that replacing existing disks with new domestic ones can only lead to aggravation of the problem. This is explained by the fact that the metal from which Russian discs are made is more “raw” in comparison with imported models, and therefore it wears out very quickly from contact with the brake pads. Road dust and sand play an important role in this process.

Sometimes, even installing high-quality imported disks does not allow achieving a positive result, since the root of the existing problem is located in a completely different place.

Example from life

VAZ 2112 car with mileage of 55 thousand km. When trying to brake at high speed, a strong shaking of the steering wheel occurs. During preventive measures, the vehicle's chassis and controls were checked. Based on the test results, the steering tip on the left side was replaced and the wheels were balanced. However, to eliminate the problem, it is necessary to grind or replace the brake discs.

It should be noted that turning brake discs should only be done by a qualified technician, so do not trust this serious operation to the first turner you come across. Also, you should not pay serious attention to some surface roughness after grooving; it is absolutely not dangerous.

Typically, the thickness of the brake disc is sufficient for grooving. Let us recall that for the VAZ 2110 and similar cars the acceptable thickness of a ventilated disc is 17.8 mm, the same figure for a non-ventilated disc is 10.8 mm.

We install the disks together with an experienced turner. All that remains is to secure the caliper and then install the wheel in its place, however, something is haunting me. Intuition suggests that you should not rush to reinstall the wheel; you should first check the amount of runout of the brake disc. It happens: I doubt the qualifications of the master. As a rule, polished dikes are much better than factory copies. But still, intuition haunts me and requires rechecking.

After rechecking, it turned out that the amount of runout of the working surface of the brake disc is within twenty-five hundred meters. The manufacturer allows a value of fifteen hundred square meters. Question: “Why such a sensitive beat at high speed, which leads to the frantic movement of the indicator needle?”

We're trying to figure out what's going on. There is no point in sinning on the bearing, since it was subjected to additional rechecking. We dismantle the disk and once again measure the hub runout. Kick, as much as 18 acres! Fine! Hello to VAZ employees and all its suppliers...

Unconventional measures

It is clear that the mood dropped to zero, however, at that moment a rather bold idea came to my head: what if at the workplace, damn it, sharpen the hub, as parts clamped in lathes are usually sharpened. Will the lathe have enough revolutions for this? The turner said that, in principle, it was possible to try, but he would not be responsible for the final result, since this was the first time in his practice that he was doing such work. He also added: “If you want to conduct experiments on your car, do it! But I’m on the edge, because I can’t give any guarantees!”

So what to do? There was nothing to lose and I agreed. In any case, this one must either be replaced or sharpened, and then the hub will have to be pressed out and pressed in again, but this work in a garage is quite difficult, in addition, you will have to purchase another bearing, and there is still no guarantee, that it will meet all quality indicators. Come on, buddy, let's experiment. As a result, you will gain invaluable experience, and I will be able to get away with minor financial expenses as a result of a favorable outcome. And in general, I’m very interested: how will all this crap end?

He quickly estimated the size of the required device and the place in which it should be secured. Here it should be noted that the devices must be rigidly fastened, and in addition, they must be located strictly perpendicular to the axis of detailed rotation. Moreover, it is necessary to accurately determine the angle at which the cutter should be fixed.

After everything was finished, good, most reliable, stops were installed under the car, the jack used to lift the body was removed, and the brake caliper was securely tied to the shock absorber using a wire. After which my partner and I started the engine and engaged first gear.

It turned out that there are enough revolutions for normal operation of the machine, the chips are removed in a thin layer and wound around the cutter, damn it. According to the results of the first pass, a completely untouched “bald patch” on the outside remained, however, we did not have time to be upset about this, since it safely disappeared after a couple of regular passes. At the end of the turning work, the hub at our disposal was ground down to zero. Next up is the next wheel.

Completion of work

Our experiment ended successfully, and the hubs have been time-tested - over the last year I have been driving without any beats. It’s just that the “ten-man”, asking a question about the beating of my steering wheel during high-speed braking, reminds me of a long-forgotten problem. Of course, sooner or later the brake discs will have to be changed by purchasing completely new ones, but this is a completely different story, since the whole problem will lie only in their choice.

Could the hub be faulty? Of course it can. Once, while repairing my car, I was very surprised by one circumstance. A slight runout of the hub can lead to quite noticeable runout of the brake disc. This is especially true for places that are as far away from the axle as possible, that is, for brake pads. In the case of high-speed braking, the brake pads strongly compress the disc rotating at high speed with the presence of irregularities, which leads to vibrations that are transmitted to the steering wheel through the tie rods, the steering lever and the steering mechanism itself.

Sources:

https://www.desyatki.ru/guide/x4/wbr/1/ https://wroom.ru/forum/topic/20437 https://novosti-online.info/3944-pochemu-pri-tormozhenii-bet -rul-na-vaz-2110.html https://carfrance.ru/pochemu-byot-v-rul-pri-tormozhenii-na-vaz-2112-prichiny-i-diagnostika/ https://howcarworks.ru/ %D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%BE%D1%81/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B1%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%86% D0%B8%D1%8F-%D0%B8%D0%BB%D0%B8-%D0%B1%D1%8C%D1%91%D1%82-%D1%80%D1%83%D0%BB %D1%8C-%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%B8-%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B6%D0%B5%D0%BD %D0%B8%D0%B8-%D0%B2-%D1%87%D1%91%D0%BC-%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B3%D1%83%D1%82-%D0 %B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D1%8C-%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%B8%D0%BD%D1%8B https://mashintop.ru /articles.php?id=1544