The reason the VAZ 2114 engine does not start is the injector 8 valves reasons

The most common reasons: what is the problem?

It is worth noting that a malfunction can be determined by indirect signs without even opening the hood of the car. For example, if the starter turns, but the engine does not catch on or immediately stalls, the problem lies in the fuel system. Without exception, all the reasons for the inability to start the engine can be divided into two main groups:

• malfunction of one of the fuel system components;
• lack of contact of the electronic ignition system.

It is also necessary to include the following in a separate category of faults: the engine “knocked”, the timing belt broke. In this case, expensive repairs will be required. In other cases, you can get by with a little bloodshed.

No ignition when turning the key

The second broad area of ​​searching for the problem is the electrical system of the car, due to a malfunction in one of the components of which the VAZ-2114 does not start and does not respond at all to turning the key in the ignition switch. To begin with, just in case, it’s worth checking the functionality of the battery under the hood: many drivers, when starting a deep search for a breakdown, forget about such a banal reason for the lack of current.

You must carefully and calmly make sure that the ignition switch itself turns smoothly, without encountering obstacles or jamming, which in theory could lead to an unsuccessful engine start

Next, you should turn your attention to more specific components and assemblies, checking their serviceability one by one:

1. Check the instructions for two relays - the starter and the ignition switch, which are located above the clutch pedal. You can evaluate their performance using the car manual, but usually they are simply replaced with ones that are known to be good for diagnostic purposes.
2. A faulty starter, or more precisely, a solenoid relay: if it breaks down on the road, you can try tapping it lightly if it just jams. Having reached the overpass, you need to turn it manually - connect the body to zero on the battery, and the other contact to positive.
3. If the starter actively begins to turn, the problem is not with it; if there is a current supply, but it does not turn, the brushes are broken. Lack of response will indicate a malfunction of the retractor relay, and a sharp and unpleasant sound will indicate a breakdown of the overrunning clutch in the starter.

The main problems associated with the operation of the fuel system

Engine starting is primarily affected by the following main components of the fuel system:

• gasoline level in the tank;
• the condition of the fuel line under the bottom of the car;
• cleanliness of filters.

It should be noted: even if there is gasoline in the tank, the car may not start. And the reason for this is the low fuel level. The pump may simply not be drawing in enough gasoline. Therefore, before starting to diagnose and inspect all the main components, it is advisable to fill the tank to at least a third. If problems with the electrical part are excluded, you need to pay attention to the fuel line. You need to check:

• no breakdowns or leaks in the fuel supply pipe under the bottom;
• the condition of the fine filter - often it simply becomes clogged, which leads to a decrease in the pressure level in the fuel system.

It is not possible to check the operation of the fuel pump manually on this car. This can only be done by ear. If, when you turn the key and turn on the ignition, the pump makes noise, then it is “alive”. Otherwise, you need to check whether power is supplied to it. If this is all right, you need to replace the pump. Its cost ranges from 1.5 to 3 thousand rubles, depending on the manufacturer.

You can check the pressure level yourself - just connect a special pressure gauge to the fuel system in accordance with the manual. This will allow you to diagnose the problem. According to the standard, the pressure should be at least 2-2.5 atm. If the indicator is less, then the engine will not start.

DTOZh replacement procedure and timing

The procedure for replacing the DTOZh may differ depending on the car model. At the VAZ, to carry out the process, you need to prepare several tools, including the obligatory set of wrenches.

According to the classic scenario, the coolant will have to be drained, otherwise replacing the DTOZH cannot be called correct. Although there are several replacement options that do not involve draining.

As mentioned above, one of the DTOZH is located in the thermostat. It screws in from the side. The second is located a little lower, wrapped in the cylinder head.

A little about the timing of replacement of DTOZH. If we are talking about a regulator that goes to the pointer, then it must be replaced at the very moment when the temperature values ​​​​go astray. This is easy to check: for example, when the engine is cold, the coolant needle tends to the red zone or simply wanders. This is an error and requires correction, i.e., replacement of the sensor.

In some cases, it also happens that it is not the regulator itself that is to blame, but the wiring or contact. You need to check everything, and only then decide whether to change it or not. Testing the wiring is also easy: the wires are disconnected from the DTOZH, the ignition is turned on and a short to ground is made. If the arrow jumps up, then everything is in order with the wiring.

The second DTOZH changes if the machine itself is not working properly. For example, the speed of a cold engine does not increase, but when it is hot it reaches a value of 1500 rpm. Fault number 2 can also be judged by the cooling fan, which turns on too early or does not do so at all.

Temperature controllers that have been removed are easiest to check. They must be immersed in boiled water heated to certain values, then connect an ohmmeter to measure the resistance coming from the DTOZH.

Problems associated with the electronic ignition system

It sometimes happens that the engine does not start well when it is cold or frosty. The reason may lie in a faulty battery or simply in its discharge. You can check its status in the following ways:

• using a multimeter - the normal voltage between the terminals should be 12.6 V;
• using a hydrometer - normal density differs depending on the ambient temperature.

For example, if the engine does not start well at low temperatures even when it is hot, then the reason, obviously, lies precisely in the low battery charge level. Main electrical problems:

• the ignition switch is faulty;
• one of the two relays installed under the hood - ignition and starter - is damaged;
• the starter does not work;
• retractor device.

The ignition switch is one of the weak points of almost any car. Moreover, the VAZ 2114 is no exception. Checking its operation is quite simple. All you need to do is dismantle the device and then test all contacts using a multimeter. If it fails, the easiest way is to replace the ignition switch. There is no point in repairing it.

It is not possible to check the ignition and starter relays without opening them. Therefore, the best solution would be to simply replace both of them at once. Their cost in the store usually does not exceed 250 rubles per piece.

You can determine the functionality of the relay simply by sound. If after turning the key it clicks, it means that voltage is coming to it, it is being applied, it works as it should. When the ignition switch is working properly, the relay clicks - the next unit to check is the starter. Usually the problem lies in the retractor.

Sometimes just a light blow with a key helps solve the problem. If you have a heated, well-lit garage, the starter should be removed and carefully inspected. Brushes usually fail. If the car's mileage is significantly more than 150 thousand km, the bearing may fail. After removing the starter, you can try to start it directly from the battery. It's very easy to do this:

• the housing must be connected to the zero terminal;
• The positive terminal should be connected directly to the retractor using an alligator clip.

If the starter is working properly, it should turn over. If there is no reaction, the problem most likely lies in the retractor.

Features of engine autostart

Different types and models of car engines behave differently when connecting autostart, and this should be taken into account when installing, connecting and configuring the system.

Temperature dependence

In the winter season, the internal combustion engines of a car start with difficulty, especially in diesel engines. Autostart failures are possible due to damage to the electrical wiring or oxidation of the signal system contacts, which reduces the voltage level in the electrical circuits. In addition, the contacts in the ignition system may be damaged, the battery may be discharged, or the ignition lock bypass module may not be working correctly.

Check the operation of the ignition and starting the engine with the key: if the engine starts immediately, it means that the autostart failure is associated with the operation of the anti-theft alarm system.

Dependence on gearbox type (manual gearbox)

If autostart does not work in cars with manual transmission, try setting the program neutral option. With the ignition on and the parking brake on, switch to neutral, press the first button on the key fob and hold it for 3 seconds, wait for a single signal from the device, then quickly:

• turn off the ignition and remove the key from the lock (the engine should continue to run);
• get out of the car and close the doors (the engine should turn off on its own and the alarm will go off when activated).

If after these manipulations, autostart still does not work, it means that either the alarm does not detect the operation of the door locks (the system is installed incorrectly and requires reinstallation), or the limit switches on the doors do not work (they should be reinstalled).

Auto start failure with triple signal flash

If, during autostart, the car does not start, and the lights flash three times, it means that there is a voltage drop in the electrical circuits. This may be due to a faulty/discharged battery, oxidation of the terminals, or the use of cables with the wrong cross-section in the electrical wiring.

If the starter turns, but the car engine does not start

In this case, first of all you need to check whether there is a spark. You can do this as follows:

• all power wires with candlesticks must be disconnected;
• then one of the candles is unscrewed;
• neatly connects to the armored wire;
• Next, you need to place the spark plug housing on the cylinder block.

You should try to “turn” the starter - if after this a bright blue spark jumps between the central and side electrodes, then there are no problems. If there is no spark or is red, then the spark plug will need to be replaced. Even if out of 4 only one spark plug does not work well, the car will no longer start the first time.

No spark at the spark plug

Just among all the reasons that the VAZ-2114 turns over but does not start, most often motorists are faced with the absence of a spark at the spark plug. You can check this this way: by unscrewing one spark plug, connect it to a high-voltage wire and carefully, touching only the insulated parts, apply it to the cylinder head cover. At the same time, a second person must turn the starter from the passenger compartment, and if there is no spark, we need to look for the problem.

If the VAZ-2114 injector does not start, you need to pay attention, firstly, to the ignition module and the chip that is connected to it - these components not only often break, but also often come from the factory defective.

The condition of the crankshaft position sensor should be assessed: by monitoring the phases of movement of the cylinders in the block, it is an important component of the entire ignition system.

Although this sensor does not break down very often, it is necessary to check it, although in the absence of service it is practically impossible to do this - a professional oscilloscope is required.

Finally, a unit such as the electronic control unit of the injector could fail: electronic brains tend to fail on more expensive cars, so it is necessary to organize basic diagnostics for them:

• apply a spark to the first and third or second and fourth cylinders;
• recognize injection phase irregularities;
• As a preventative measure, clean the contacts on the electronic control unit from oxidation.

Other faults

The injector makes it quite easy to determine the cause of the malfunction. But repairs are much more difficult than on cars equipped with a carburetor engine. VAZ 2114 is equipped with engines of various powers. Easier maintenance with 8 valves. If the car takes a long time to start and the exclamation mark is on, then the reason may lie in the following:

• incorrect operation of injectors;
• poor quality fuel;
• low pressure in the ramp.

Often, over a long period of use, the injectors simply become clogged. As a result, they require cleaning. It is difficult to cope with such a task on your own. The solution may be to contact a specialized service. Cleaning is usually performed using ultrasound. Another option is low quality fuel mixture. If the car begins to stall or loses power immediately after refueling, then the problem lies precisely in gasoline.

Lack of sufficient pressure in the ramp is another common reason. It can be measured using a special pressure gauge. Normal pressure is 2-2.5 atm. If it is lower, then the engine simply will not start. If you cannot independently determine the reason for the inability to start the engine, you should contact a service center.

The VAZ 2114 car is easy to repair and maintain. You just need to monitor the quality of the fuel being poured, and also change consumables in a timely manner.

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OPTIONS FOR TROUBLESHOOTING

It is clear that if any emergency situations arise with the motor, it is advisable to contact a specialized service. However, this procedure is not always possible. Therefore, it is worth knowing how to independently diagnose the main systems and key parts.

THROTTLE VALVE AND ASSEMBLY

When the speed drops at idle and the car stalls, you need to pay close attention to the details of the throttle assembly. Long-term operation of the car on low-quality fuel and untimely maintenance of the air filter can lead to malfunctions of the throttle valve. It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment

It periodically jams if debris gets into the equipment.

Throttle valve VAZ 2112

The problem can be solved by cleaning the system. The throttle is cleaned using carburetor cleaners. Using a compressor, you need to blow out the damper under the pressure of compressed air. It is not recommended to touch the screws located inside and on the side. If cleaning does not correct the situation, the device must be replaced. This operation is not particularly difficult.

CRANKCASE FAILURE

There is an oil trap in the crankcase ventilation system of the engine. Its contamination can also lead to interruptions in engine operation. Crankcase gases do not allow the engine to function normally, the speed fluctuates, the internal combustion engine stalls.

SENSORS

If a gasoline car stalls at idle, then one of the sensors is likely to break. In injection cars with an electronic engine control system, the engine usually starts normally, but then it stops working. It's worth checking here:

• Electronic car indicators;
• DRХХ – device that regulates idle speed;
• Air flow meter (air intake in the carburetor);
• Sensor indicating the position of the throttle curtain.

Electronic control unit in VAZ 2114

Interruptions in the operation of any sensors immediately affect the behavior of the electronics - errors appear in the car control unit. The “brains” of the machine receive unreliable information. It is not transmitted correctly to the engine. It starts working with parameters that do not correspond to reality. Self-testing of this device is not possible. You need to contact a professional for service.

Diagnostics of mass air flow sensor

The idle air control device is usually to blame for engine malfunction when the car idles poorly. But you pressed the gas pedal and the engine started. In the latest VAZ modifications, error information appears on the instrument panel.

When diagnosing, you must use a multimeter. If a part is faulty, it is recommended to replace it with a new one. All sensors are reasonably priced. It is better to start checking with parts that have a simpler design. Then gradually move on to complex devices. We must not forget that the problem may lie not only in the sensors themselves. It is also necessary to check the wiring to them and the presence of stable contact.

CARBURETOR

If the VAZ carburetor stalls at idle speed, then the jets may become clogged. Low-quality gasoline, deposits from the gas tank, contain small particles of debris. They can easily disrupt the operation of the fuel injection system. It is worth replacing the filter in front of the carburetor and cleaning the device itself. The dispensing part is cleaned using a cleaning solvent, which is sold in aerosol cans. Another reason is often a prolonged lack of carburetor adjustment.

In a mechanical fuel pump of carburetor cars, the filter mesh may be clogged with dirt. This reduces the performance of the device. Wear of the membrane and its destruction often leads to clogged carburetor channels.

INJECTOR

A situation that often arises is that various Lada models, as well as the VAZ 2110 injector stalls at idle. It is necessary to check the fuel pump strainer for clogging. This is a common problem with injection machines. It is better to immediately replace the part with a working one.

FILTERS PROBLEM

If the VAZ 2112 stalls at idle, then the fuel filter may be dirty. This also applies to other models of the concern. Generally, it is not practical to clean it. The part must be replaced. The same should be done with a dirty air filter. Low throughput leads to the fact that the air-fuel mixture simply floods the spark plugs.

Self-checking will not always lead to a positive result. It is often more practical to identify the cause of unstable operation of the internal combustion engine at a car service center. It will cost more, but specialized diagnostics will prevent more serious damage to the car.

Why doesn't the car start if the starter turns but doesn't engage?

Let's look at the reasons why the engine won't start. What are the solutions and what should a person who finds himself in this situation do? We will talk about Samaras with an injection engine, since there are few carburetor ones left today.

If we are talking about the cold season - you did not start in winter, then there are several nuances regarding the engine starting algorithm. Perhaps your candles have flooded or something else. To study this issue more specifically, read the article: How to start a car in cold weather? Where the algorithm is described and, again, possible causes of the malfunction.

Now we will talk more deeply about the technical part, since “winter factors” are no longer needed.

We will describe the problems in the order of the actions taken: that is, starting from the inserted key and ending with the operation of the engine.

The starter works, the engine turns, but the car does not start

So, the starter, like the engine, the pistons move, but the engine still won’t start. There is already a problem here, most likely in the fuel-air mixture, perhaps the marks have come off, etc.

Before you sin on this, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the crankshaft sensors:

DPKV - if it malfunctions, it is very difficult to start the engine, and once it is running, it runs unevenly, intermittently, and the power drops noticeably.

Next you should pay attention to the labels:

1. Mark on the timing camshaft gear (photo).
2. Markings on the flywheel under the thermostat (photo).

If the marks do not match, most likely the belt has simply slipped by one tooth. The camshaft gear itself may be worn. It needs to be adjusted and installed correctly!

Next we will talk about the air-fuel mixture.

I warn you in advance that the easiest way is to do computer diagnostics of the engine or look at the errors on the on-board computer.

The air-fuel mixture is the combination of air, gasoline, and the spark needed to ignite it.

Air supply

As a rule, a malfunction in the air supply should not affect the engine starting problem. At the very least, the engine should still run. Nevertheless, let's not bypass the air system.

The following sensors are responsible for air metering and supply:

1. Mass air flow sensor is the most expensive sensor. If it fails, then the car simply begins to consume liters of gasoline, then this sensor can simply die “to zero”, but it indirectly affects the starting of the car. This means, no matter how it fails, the car should start.
2. The IAC should not affect the engine starting problem. If it malfunctions, problems arise from idle.

Spark

Here may be the real reasons for our problem:

1. First of all, we look at the candles. We turn them inside out (How to remove candles?) and look at their condition. Normal ones should have a slightly brick color, if they are wet, the candles will flood accordingly. It is necessary to clean and bleed the cylinders by idling the engine with the starter with the spark plugs turned out. If one cylinder is flooded, the problem is local (high-voltage wires, faulty spark plug, injector), all cylinders are flooded - a general problem (ignition coil, brains, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure in the rail).
2. Next, check for the presence of a spark. To check it, check out the following article: How to check the spark?

1. If there is no spark on one cylinder, there is a faulty spark plug or high-voltage wire.
2. If it is missing on two adjacent cylinders (1-4 or 2-3), then the problem is in the ignition coil or in the ECU.
3. If there is no spark anywhere, the problem may lie in the ignition coil or ECU, in mismatched timing marks, or inoperative DPKV.
4. If there are no problems with the presence of a spark, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the fuel supply.

Computer diagnostics

If a motor with a working starter does not start, pay attention to the dashboard indicators. When you turn the ignition key, the CHECK, battery, and oil pressure sensor fault indicators should light up, and the immobilizer indication should stop

In cars with an injector, after turning the key, you should hear the characteristic sound of the fuel pump pumping - a soft buzzing sound.

If the car does not start with the starter working normally and the tachometer needle does not move, although the electric motor cranks the engine, you need to check the crankshaft sensor. If this element fails, the engine will not be able to start, since permission to do so is not given by the electronic control unit.

To obtain complete information, diagnostic equipment is connected through a special connector, in which the car model and engine type are selected. After connecting to the car’s ECU, the laptop screen will display error codes that are currently relevant. If necessary, you can open a diagram of the car where the area with the breakdown will be localized.

When the starter is working properly, it is necessary to remove several parameters, the failure of which can lead to breakdown:

1. The vacuum gauge should show a pressure equal to atmospheric pressure, about 1 bar.
2. The specified idle speed must correspond to the characteristics of the engine.
3. The engine temperature during cold start should be equal to the ambient temperature.

To track the operating mode of the motor, it is necessary to track its revolutions in real time when the starter rotates, for which there is a special tab in the software. To do this, the starter is started and the crankshaft speed per minute that it provides appears on the screen. The norm is a little more than 200 rpm. If the data remains at zero, the problem is in the crankshaft sensor, which needs to be replaced.

Reasons why the injection VAZ 2114 does not start

The design of any modern car, the VAZ 2114 is no exception, is such that the successful production of a car depends on a number of positions. Previously, this was enough for the mechanical pump to supply fuel to the carburetor, and for the spark plugs to produce a spark. Today there are a lot of problems that prevent the engine from starting. An electronic injector requires the participation of several sensors, and the matter is not limited to them. In this article we will tell you why not and how to deal with it.

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In general, all causes of malfunction can be divided into two large categories:

1. Fuel system problems. This group includes any breakdowns as a result of which fuel is not supplied to the engine at all, is supplied incorrectly, or mixture quality errors occur.
2. Electrical problems. Ignition of the fuel mixture is ensured by sending an electrical signal to the spark plugs. If problems arise here (and there are a huge number of electrical elements), the car will not start.

The most terrible malfunctions can be included in a separate category - for example, a “knocking” VAZ 2114 engine, a broken timing belt and, as a result, bending of the valves. In these situations, expensive repairs cannot be avoided.

Fuel system problems

Among the elements of the fuel system, the following factors influence engine starting:

• presence of gasoline in the tank;
• the integrity of the fuel lines under the “belly” of the car;
• cleanliness of the filters: coarse cleaning (located in the tank) and fine cleaning (located under the car, to the right of the spare wheel compartment).

Also included in this category are electrical components that are directly related to the fuel supply. This is an electric fuel pump and a fuel pump relay.

Before checking other methods, you must be completely sure that the VAZ 2114 with an injector is filled. “Yes, there are still five liters there” according to the indicator on the tidy or “I filled it up yesterday, I couldn’t spend that much” are not suitable. The gauge may be lying, and there may be leaks in the tank or fuel lines. Carefully check the car for fuel leaks; just in case, fill in 5-7 liters of gasoline from a canister.

The mesh in the tank rarely gets clogged, leave this option for last, but it’s worth trying to change the fine filter if electrical problems are ruled out.

The operation of the fuel pump is checked by ear (after turning the key, its operation should be heard; if not, the pump has “died”, or the pump relay, or a wiring break). According to the manual, you need to connect a pressure gauge to the fuel system. If the pressure does not stay within 2-2.5 atm, the VAZ 2114 will not catch due to insufficient fuel pressure.

Impact of sensors

Most VAZ-2115 cars operate on the “January 5.1” controller. Crankshaft, temperature and throttle sensors are involved in starting the engine.

DPKV malfunctions usually appear regardless of temperature, but it is worth checking its resistance and comparing it with the data in the calibration table.

A more common malfunction is DT. Remove from position and place in a container with a cooler. We measure the resistance with a multimeter: it should be in the region of 1350 - 1880 Ohms. If you have a thermometer, you can check it using the table. If not, it doesn’t matter either, just heat it to an arbitrary temperature. As T increases, the resistance decreases. On a fully warmed up engine it is 87 - 109 Ohms. If the ohms do not change or drop to 0, change the DT.

The throttle assembly is completely disassembled and cleaned. One of the problems is dirt, which expands when heated and interferes with the normal operation of the injection. If the TPS malfunctions, the car not only does not start when hot, but also “does not drive” (sometimes stalls and does not start) after warming up.

The TPS is checked with an ohmmeter with the engine running. Place the multimeter on the input and output contacts, ask an assistant to press the gas. The readings should change and return to their original values ​​at XX. If the resistance does not change when you press the pedal or the device shows infinity, the sensor needs to be replaced. At the same time we check the IAC. It usually causes the car to be unstable at idle or stall but start.

A malfunction of the mass air flow sensor on cars with January 5.1 is recognized by the fact that the car starts when hot and immediately stalls. The sensor comes into operation only after startup. But on a car with January 7.2, the mass air flow sensor is involved in the start - without it the car will not start.

Electrical faults

Most of the problems lie here, so we’ll look at each option in detail here:

Nothing happens when I turn the key

On a VAZ 2114, this usually indicates a violation in the ignition switch - starter line, but one of the reasons for the breakdown “for blondes” is a dead battery, do not forget about it (checked with a voltmeter: it should be at least 11.8 V - and with a hydrometer, if the battery is serviceable : at least 1.22 in each jar).

Let's move on. The cause of such a malfunction may be a breakdown of the ignition switch cylinder, and the injector has nothing to do with it. If, when turning the key, new sensations arise (something catches, turning has become easier or, conversely, more difficult), that’s the problem.

Useful video

You can glean additional interesting information from the video below:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=-kE3OCc7J7w

• Useful information about the pump in the VAZ 2114: replacement, device, purpose
• VAZ 2114 engine: modifications, characteristics and tuning
• VAZ 2114 crankshaft pulley: change it yourself

Hello! Problem on VAZ 2114 2004 8kl. injector example: in the cold at -5-10 in the evening the engine started as in the summer before, the car sat overnight the temperature dropped to -15-20 and did not start, the battery is 2 years old, I changed the spark plugs weeks ago and at -20 it does not start at all, it’s worth it change the temperature, it will start in the summer. Thank you.

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