Experts' recommendations for replacing an automatic/manual transmission on a Lada Grant

The average service life of an automatic transmission is 180–200 thousand km. In practice, the indicated range does not always correspond to reality, often 10 - 12% lower.

Since the beginning of 2011, the Lada Granta “Norma” and “Lux” has been equipped with a Japanese automatic transmission. The design of the machine is quite complex, so diagnostics and repairs at home should be carried out only by qualified specialists.

Removal and installation of the Lada Granta gearbox (VAZ 11183, 21116)

We remove the gearbox to repair or replace it, as well as when dismantling the engine.
We carry out the work with an assistant on an inspection ditch or overpass.

Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the air filter (see “Removing the air filter and air intake”).

We remove the starter (see “Removing and checking the starter”).

Remove the left and middle mudguards of the power unit (see “Removing the mudguards of the engine compartment”).

We disconnect the wire blocks from the reverse light switch (see “Removing the reverse light switch”) and the speed sensor (see “Removing the vehicle speed sensor”).

Drain the oil from the gearbox (see “Changing the oil in the gearbox”).

Remove the air filter (see “Removing the air filter and air intake”).

We disconnect the clutch release cable from the clutch release fork lever and the bracket on the gearbox (see “Replacing the clutch release cable”).

We disconnect the gearbox control rod from the shaft of the gear selector rod hinge (see “Removing and disassembling the gearbox control mechanism”).

Remove the left front suspension brace (see “Removing the brace”).

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the lower cover of the clutch housing...

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox housing (which also secure the torque arm), holding the bolts from turning with a head of the same size.

We remove the reaction rod with the bracket from the gearbox. Remove the front wheel drives (see “Removing the front wheel drives”).

Using a 19" socket with an extension, we loosen the two bolts of the upper fastening of the gearbox to the cylinder block, which simultaneously secure the mounting bracket for the wiring harness holders.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the ignition coil bracket to the clutch housing...

...and remove the bolt and washer from the hole in the clutch housing.

Using a 19mm socket with a long extension, loosen the nut of the lower rear mounting of the gearbox to the cylinder block.

Use a 19mm socket to loosen the bolt of the lower front fastening of the gearbox to the cylinder block.

We install adjustable stops through wooden blocks under the engine oil pan and gearbox housing.

Using the E‑14 head, unscrew the two screws securing the front left support of the power unit to the support.

Using a 15mm socket, unscrew the three nuts securing the bracket for the left support of the power unit to the gearbox...

...and remove the bracket. Completely unscrew the bolts and nut securing the gearbox.

We move the gearbox away from the engine by removing the input shaft from the clutch driven disc hub.

When removing and installing the gearbox, do not rest the gearbox input shaft on the clutch diaphragm spring petals to avoid damaging them. Before installing the gearbox, apply a thin layer of CV joint-4 lubricant to the splined end of the input shaft. To facilitate the operation of installing the gearbox, we screw in a guide pin M12×1.25 mm (with a sawn slot for a screwdriver...

Catalog numbers and a list of all necessary parts

Catalog numbers of bearings, their cost

*prices are current as of November 26, 2018.

Before replacing an automatic transmission, always confirm the catalog numbers with service station specialists.

Common questions about replacing the Lada Granta cable box

The hollow secondary shaft houses the removable main gear drive gear, driven gears and forward speed synchronizers. The shafts (primary, secondary) are mounted on bearings: in front - on roller bearings, in back - on ball bearings.

The second most important unit in a car after the engine is the gearbox (gearbox) - it serves to change the magnitude and direction of the transmitted torque, as well as to disconnect the engine and transmission.

More than a century has passed since the invention of the first box. Problems of a century ago with pulleys and belt drives have quietly replaced questions a la removing the cables of a Lada Granta gearbox or repairing a Toyota Camry automatic transmission. Progress.

Catalog numbers, bearing names

Replacing an automatic transmission with a manual transmission and vice versa: how justified is it?

The question is ambiguous, since each owner must start from his goals. When it comes to aggressive driving style, drifting, etc., you can’t find a better mechanic.

If you are a supporter of a smooth ride, medium speeds, and fuel economy, then an automatic is the best choice. Although, if you have the skills, you can drive it on the automatic type.

The final choice is up to the owner of the technical device.

LADA Granta manual transmission device

A mechanical five-speed gearbox was combined with a planetary gear and final drive. They are one. In joy and in sorrow.

The input shaft - the gear block - is in constant mesh with the forward gears.

The hollow secondary shaft houses the removable main gear drive gear, driven gears and forward speed synchronizers. The shafts (primary, secondary) are mounted on bearings: in front - on roller bearings, in back - on ball bearings.

Manual transmission device "Lada Granta"

The oil sump is located under the output shaft front bearing and directs the oil flow into the output shaft and under the driven gears.

A symmetrical differential consists of a pair of gears and a pair of pinions in the shape of a cone. The final drive driven gear is held on the differential housing flange.

The variable speed drive consists of a shift lever, a ball joint, a rod, and a rod.

The gear shift mechanism is securely mounted on the clutch housing.

This is how I remember the VAZ-2180 manual transmission on Grants produced before 2013.

Which oil is best to fill according to the regulations?

The standard manual does not say what kind of oil to fill in a Granta box with a cable drive. The answer is in the instructions included with other cars also equipped with the “2181” box. Here is the list:

• G-BOX EXPERT – 80W85, 75W90
• Gazpromneft – 80W90, 80W85
• TNK TRANS KP – 80W85
• TNK TRANS KP SUPER – 75W90
• LUKOIL TM-4 – 75W85, 75W80, 80W85, 75W90, 80W90
• ROSNEFT KINETIC (Angarsk) – 80W85
• ROSNEFT KINETIC (Novokuibyshevsk) – 80W85 (GL-4), 75W90 (GL-4/GL-5)
• TATNEFT TRANSLUX TM-4-12 – 75W85
• SHELL: SPIRAX S5 ATE or TRANSAXLE OIL – 75W90 (GL-4/GL-5)

If the quality class is not specified, the material complies with GL-4 standards.

Quality class “GL-5” has its own characteristics. With material of this class, gears are better preserved rather than synchronizers.

We focus on temperature

When choosing oil for the box, use the table:

• Range “-12 – +50 Gr. C" – 85W90
• «-26 – +45» – 80W90
• «-26 – +35» – 80W85
• «-40 – +35» – 75W80 or 75W85
• «-40 – +45» – 75W90

The viscosity grade is indicated on the right.

"Remont-MKPP.ru" - best prices, guarantee, discounts

We eliminate all types of gearbox, transmission, and clutch malfunctions. We repair Lada Granta manual transmissions at the most affordable prices in Moscow. Understanding that you need your car every day, we will restore the mechanics on the day you arrive at the service center. As a result, you will not only get a working car, but also save money due to inexpensive spare parts and company discounts. The quality of the result is backed by a guarantee.

Phone Remont-MKPP.ru for inquiries, consultations and appointments.

Photo report on manual transmission repair Vaz 2180

What will be needed

Now let's take a closer look at what may be required to carry out the oil change process. The current state of affairs shows that almost every Kalina owner is very smart and handy, and rarely goes to repair shops. This behavior of car enthusiasts is quite justified, because in cars of the domestic automobile industry, all work on changing the oil is quite easy to do with your own hands. In order for the process to go quickly and to save time, it is better to prepare in advance:

• wrench for 17, or even better, the so-called “scapular” one;
• a funnel and a tube (about 50, but no more than centimeters), which can be bought at any store;
• directly the oil to be filled;
• deep and voluminous container for “working off” (i.e. used oil);
• special flushing compounds for cases where flushing is planned;
• a jack or lifting device, which will be useful when flushing.

Of course, and there is no need to remind you about this, you will need to drive your car onto an overpass or inspection hole. So, let's move on to the process itself.

How to change the oil in an X-ray with flushing the engine:

1. 1. Warm up the engine, drain the old oil and wait about half an hour until the remainder is added.
2. 2. Start the engine without oil and let it run for one and a half minutes at idle speed.
3. 3. Fill in the flushing oil, install a new filter and run the engine in the flushing oil at idle speed for 20 minutes.
4. 4. Drain the flush as in the first point, fill in one and a half liters of new oil. Let the engine run for one and a half minutes at idle speed.
5. 5. Drain everything again and wait half an hour until the remainder is added. Remove and discard the used filter.
6. 6. Install a new filter and fill in the required amount of new oil.

You can use a car.

The car doesn't move forward

Usually in this case the reverse gear works properly. The cause may be damage to the discs or piston cups. Another common case is a stuck shift adjustment valve.

To troubleshoot problems, it is necessary to replace the friction discs, change the cuffs and clean the valve. If the reverse speed does not work either, it means that the culprit of the problem is the clutch responsible for the forward speed. Excessive wear will destroy the O-rings, spline mechanism and coupling. Repair in this case will consist of replacing damaged and worn elements.

The car does not move forward or backward

The absence of any movement can, in principle, be caused by the following malfunctions:

In these cases, a complete replacement of worn parts will be required. Often the car can move forward, but when moving away there is a strong jolt. The car starts to slip and then stops. This problem indicates low oil level, failure of the torque converter or oil pump.

Other malfunctions and methods for eliminating them

Sometimes the breakdown is the absence of all speeds, except for the first. This indicates several problems: the valve is stuck, the teeth of the helical gear are damaged, or its cotter pin is sheared off. Troubleshooting work involves replacing worn parts, cleaning the valve, and checking the valve system.

A low oil level leads to other consequences in addition to the impossibility of movement. For example, when driving uphill for a long time, engaging a higher gear leads to slipping. The reduced mode is automatically switched on. Damage to the cuff and O-rings is also possible.

When switched to the “neutral” position, the car continues to move. This means that the drive cable is not adjusted. Or the drive lever or clutch is jammed, or the friction discs are damaged.

Very often, automatic transmissions encounter a problem called “kickdown,” i.e., when the gas pedal is sharply pressed, the gearbox does not shift to a lower gear. The problem most often occurs due to a pressure sensor, damaged foot switch, broken wiring, or poor adjustment of the throttle drive. Eliminated by replacing the sensor and adjusting the drive.

In fact, theoretically there can be a lot of problems. To the point where water gets into the gearbox housing and the oil foams, causing the car to start slipping. Subsequently, in advanced cases, this leads to complete failure of the gearbox.

An automatic transmission, like a robotic one, is much more complex than conventional mechanics. Service is not cheap, but repairs at home cannot be carried out efficiently.

It is important for car owners to learn how to correctly diagnose faults, and if they are minor, fix them themselves. If the problem is related to the need to remove and disassemble the automatic transmission, in such cases you cannot do without the help of qualified specialists

Repairs, depending on the complexity and malfunction, are estimated at an average of at least 2–3 thousand rubles, although it can reach up to 15–20, not counting the cost of spare parts.

Design and differences of a cable-driven gearbox

Unlike a conventional gearbox, the cable-driven gearbox has received some improvements and upgrades.

In order to understand how everything works, let’s compare a standard gearbox labeled VAZ-2180 and the new VAZ-2181:

The main elements and components that go into the design of the new gearbox can be seen in the figures below:

1 – first gear gear; 2 – intermediate rings; 3 – blocking ring; 4 – synchronizer clutch; 5 – synchronizer clutch hub; 6 – clamp; 7 – second gear gear.

1 – gear selector levers; 2 – selector grid pin; 3 – selector grid; 4 – reverse locking mechanism; 5 – central three-dimensional plate.

Thus, the manufacturer decided to improve and modernize the gearbox, which was unreliable and had a lot of problems. Due to the new improved system, vibration in the body and gear knob has been reduced. The gears switched on, started more clearly, and the huge backlashes disappeared.

Catalog numbers and production

As you know, analogues of gearboxes are rarely produced, and even more so for domestic cars.

Therefore, for the Lada Granta cable-driven gearbox there is one catalog number - 21810-1700012-00.